Best products from r/24hoursupport
We found 34 comments on r/24hoursupport discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 177 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. SANOXY A12940 SATA/PATA/IDE Drive to USB 2.0 Adapter Converter Cable
- Use your 2.5" / 3.5" IDE hard drive or SATA hard disc as an additional external hard drive. Connect your SATA / IDE device to your computer through a USB port. Compliant with USB 1.1 and 2.0 standards. Usb 2.0 interface for 480 MB/s high speed data transfer. Package includes USB to IDE / SATA cable adapter, SATA data cable, AC adapter, AC to IDE power converter, IDE to SATA and power cable
- Use your 2.5" / 3.5" IDE hard drive or SATA hard disc as an external hard drive
- 480 MB/s high speed transfer rate, 52x CD-ROM supported Key Product Features
- SANOXY SATA/IDE to USB 2.0 Adapter Supports 2.5-Inch, 3.5-Inch, 5.25-Inch Optical Hard Disk Drives
- Suggested Applications: 2.5" IDE Hard Disk / 3.5" IDE Hard Disk / SATA Hard Disk / CD/CD-RW ROM / DVD/DVD-RW ROM, and many other IDE/SATA Devices.
Features:
2. Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter - Connect Any DisplayPort-Enabled PC or Tablet to an HDMI Enabled Monitor, TV or Projector for Ultra-HD Video Streaming (HDMI 2.0 up to 4K 3840x2160 @60Hz)
- DISPLAYPORT TO HDMI ADAPTER- Converts a DisplayPort output on your laptop or desktop to HDMI for easy connection to an HDMI capable display, monitor, or HDTV
- SUPPORTED RESOLUTIONS - Supports HDMI displays up to 3840x2160 @ 60Hz (4K) resolution
- STANDARDS - VESA (DisplayPort) certified. Compliant with VESA Dual-Mode DisplayPort 1.2, High Bit Rate 2 (HBR2), and HDMI 2.0 standards. AMD Eyefinity compatible
- Will convert from DisplayPort on computer to HDMI on monitor only. Not bidirectional and not compatible with gaming consoles, DVD/BluRay players, or USB ports. Note your source and display both need to support the desired resolution
- 2 YEAR WARRANTY - We love our Plugable products, and hope you will too. All of our products are backed with a 2-year limited parts and labor warranty as well as Seattle-based email support
Features:
3. Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler, 4 CDC Heatpipes, 120mm PWM Fan, Aluminum Fins for AMD Ryzen/Intel LGA1200/1151
- Well-balanced cooling performance provides fin optimizations with perfect balance between high and low speed operations
- Wide-range PWM fan with unique wave-shaped blade design for excellent airflow
- CPU Socket: LGA2066, LGA2011-v3, LGA2011, LGA1366, LGA1200, LGA1156, LGA1155, LGA1151, LGA1150, AM4, AM3+, AM3, AM2+, AM2, FM2+, FM2, FM1
- Dimensions (L x W x H): 120 x 80 x 159 mm / 4.7 x 3.1 x 6.3 inch ; Heat Sink Dimensions (L x W x H): 116 x 51 x 159 mm / 4.6 x 2.0 x 6.3 inch; Fan Dimensions (L x W x H): 120 x 120 x 25 mm / 4.7 x 4.7 x 1 inch
- Heat Sink Material: Aluminum Fins, 4 Direct Contact Heat Pipe ; Heat Sink Weight: 465g / 1.03lb: Heat Pipe Dimensions: Ø6mm
- Fan Noise Level: 9 - 36 dBA; Fan Speed: 600-2000 RPM (PWM) ± 10% ; Fan Airflow: 24.9 - 82.9 CFM ± 10%
Features:
4. Vantec SATA/IDE to USB 3.0 Adapter (CB-ISA225-U3)
- Compact And Lightweight Design For Easy Storage
- Supports 2.5" & 3.5" IDE & SATA I/II/III, SSDs, Hard Drives, CD/DVD/Blu-ray Drives
- Supports 5.25" Optical CD/DVD/Blu-ray Drives
- Hot-Swappable: Plug & Play Without Rebooting
- Optimized for any speed, SATA I/II/ III HDD/SSD/ODD
- No Drivers Needed (NDN) for multiple OS
Features:
5. NETGEAR G54/N150 Wi-Fi USB Micro Adapter (WNA1000M)
Innovative micro-designConnect laptop to Wi-Fi hotspotsConnect to a Wireless-G or Wireless-N networkSupports Windows 8Please Note: Kindly refer the User Guide before use.Innovative micro-designConnect laptop to Wi-Fi hotspotsConnect to a Wireless-G or Wireless-N network
6. ORICO Transparent NVMe M.2 Enclosure Tool-Free USB3.1 Type-C Gen2 10Gbps to M.2 SSD Enclosure for Intel 660p/Samsung 970 EVO/Samsung970 Pro 2230/2242/2260/2280 PCIe NVMe M-Key SSD up to 2TB - Blue
- CLEAR DESIGN - Transparent NVMe Case make it easy to identify the hard drive inside. The other side of the aluminum alloy plate reduces overheating.
- EASY TO USE - Tool-free design allows quick and easy installation of your M.2 NMVe SSDs. Less than 3 minutes to install ssd and plug in.
- HIGH SPEED - Adopting UASP and Trim supported JMS583 master controller and latest USB 3.1 Gen 2 Type-C port, it supports up to 10 Gbps data transfer speed, and can read & write up to 950+ Mb/s for compatible SSDs.
- COMPATIBILITY - Only for NVME M-Key M.2 SSD (PCI-E-based). Support Windows / Linux /Mac OS. Fit SSD sizes include 2230, 2242, 2260, 2280. Fits storage up to 2TB.
- If for any reason you are dissatisfied with your purchase, just let us know and we promise to make it right.
Features:
7. StarTech.com SATA to USB Cable - USB 3.0 to 2.5” SATA III Hard Drive Adapter - External Converter for SSD/HDD Data Transfer (USB3S2SAT3CB)
- QUICKLY ACCESS A SATA SSD OR HDD: By connecting to a SATA 2.5" SATA SSD or HDD using this SATA to USB cable--you can add storage, perform backups, create disk images, implement data recoveries, and transfer content to your laptop
- FAST TRANSFER SPEEDS WITH UASP: The SATA to USB adapter supports USB 3.0 data transfer speeds of 5Gbps, plus you can experience transfer speeds up to 70% faster than conventional USB 3.0 when connected to a computer that also supports UASP
- CONNECT FROM ANYWHERE: The hard drive USB adapter is a portable solution that tucks away nicely in a laptop bag with no external power required
- SAVE TIME: The hard drive transfer cable lets you easily swap between drives with no need to install the drive inside an enclosure--just plug and play
Features:
8. Cable Matters DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable (DP to DP Cable) 6 Feet - 4K Resolution Ready
- Convenient Display Port to Display Port cable directly connects a DisplayPort (DP, DP++, DisplayPort++) equipped computer to a HD monitor or projector with DisplayPort input
- DisplayPort cables transmit high definition audio and video from your computer to a monitor for video streaming or gaming; The Display cable connects and configures your monitor for an Extended Desktop or Mirrored Displays
- Display Port cables support video resolutions up to 4K (3840x2160, Ultra HD) and 1080P (Full HD), and flawless audio pass-thru for uncompressed digital 7.1, 5.1 or 2 channels
- Gold-plated connectors, bare copper conductors, and foil & braid shielding combine together to provide both superior performance and reliable connectivity of the DisplayPort 1.2 cable
- DisplayPort 144hz cable connector with latches provides a secure connection with a release button that must be depressed before unplugging
Features:
9. Seagate Expansion Portable 2TB External Hard Drive HDD – USB 3.0 for PC Laptop (STEA2000400)
- Easily store and access 2TB of content on the go with Seagate Expansion Portable hard drive
- This external hard drive for Windows computers makes backup a snap—just drag-and-drop.
- To get set up, connect the portable hard drive to your Windows computer for automatic recognition—no software required
- This USB drive provides plug-and-play simplicity with the included 18-inch USB 3.0 cable
Features:
10. WD 4TB Black My Passport Portable External Hard Drive - USB 3.0 - WDBYFT0040BBK-WESN
- Auto backup with Included WD Backup Software
- Password Protection with hardware encryption
- Trusted drive built with WD reliability
- USB 3.0 port; USB 2.0 compatible; System Compatibility: Windows 10, Windows 8.1, Windows 7; Requires reformatting for Mac OS X operating system
- 3 year manufacturer's limited warranty
Features:
11. Creative Sound Blaster Audigy FX PCIe 5.1 Sound Card with High Performance Headphone Amp
- Easily converts the PC into a cinematic entertainment system by providing a compelling 5.1 surround sound
- Advanced Audio Processing with SBX Pro Studio, a suite of Sound Blaster audio processing technologies that let you bring out the best in your audio
- Includes the Sound Blaster Audigy Fx Control Panel, PC software that puts you in full control of the SBX Pro Studio suite of technologies
- 600 ohm headphone amp for high performance, studio grade monitoring
- 106 SNR and 24-bit 192kHz DAC (Playback) and 96kHz ADC (Recording)
Features:
13. Metro ED500 DataVac 500-Watt 120 volt 0.75-HP Electric Blower Duster
- Sturdy all-steel construction. Please note: This item is a blower, NOT a vaccuum.
- Includes air pin-pointer, air concentrator nozzle, air -flare nozzle, micro-cleaning tool kit
- More effective than canned air and safer than canned air
- 500 watt motor, .75 HP, 4.5 amps, 70 CFM air flow
- 120 volt (not for use in 220 or 230-volt current).
Features:
14. Rosewill Wireless N300 PCI-E WiFi Adapter, 300 Mbps (2.4 GHz) PCI Express Network Card for PC
Complies with IEEE 802.11b, 802.11g and 802.11n Wi-Fi protocol standards for 2.4GHz wireless LANWireless adapter speeds up to 300Mbps high-speed internet; ideal for lag-free online gaming, smooth HD video streaming and solid internet callsTwo high gain 5 dBi detachable antennas for optimally tuned a...
15. Arris Touchstone DOCSIS 3.0 Residential Gateway Wi-Fi 802.11n 4 Port Router, and 2 Voice Lines TG862G
- Compatible with major U.S. Cable Providers. Contact your ISP to confirm compatibility.
- Not Compatible with VoIP (telephony) Service with Comcast in Most Locations (Results may vary)
- DOCSIS 3.0 residential gateway with 802.11n, 4 Port Router, and 8x4 Channel Bonding
- 320 MBPS Down Speed: Up to eight times faster than DOCSIS 2.0 cable modems
- Comcast Telephony users must have tier 3 tech support force firmware download for phone activation
Features:
16. ARRIS SURFboard SBG6580 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem/ Wi-Fi N300 2.4Ghz + N300 5GHz Dual Band Router - Retail Packaging Black (570763-006-00)
- Compatible with Comcast Xfinity, Time Warner Cable, Charter, Cox, Cablevision, and more. Call internet service provider if not listed here. Requires Cable Internet Service and approved for plans up to 100 Mbps. Wifi will not work on certain ISP providers
- Not compatible with: Verizon, AT&T, or CenturyLink
- Two-in-one DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem + N300 WiFi Router
- Docsis 3.0 Modem with 8 DOWNLOAD and 4 UPLOAD Channels capable of 343 Mbps download and 131 Mbps.
- 8X Faster than DOCSIS 2.0. Supports IPv4 and IPv6 – the latest Internet standard. 802.11n Wi-Fi. 4-Port Gigabit Ethernet Router
- 2.4/5.0 GHz Dual-band Switchable
Features:
17. NETGEAR N600 (8x4) WiFi DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem Router (C3700) Certified for Xfinity from Comcast, Spectrum, Cox, Spectrum & more
Up to 340Mbps modem speed and Dual Band N450 (2.4GHz & 5GHz) WiFi speed. 8x4 channel bonding, Denial of Service (DoS) attack preventionDOCSIS 3.0 unleashes 8x faster download speeds than DOCSIS 2.0Ideal for streaming HD videos, faster downloads, and high speed online gamingRequired for the fastest c...
18. LG 50PT350 50-Inch 720p 600 Hz Plasma HDTV
- TruSlim Frame
- 600Hz Sub Field Driving. Connectivity technology: 3 HDMI, USB, RF In, AV In
- Picture Wizard II (Easy Picture Calibration)
- ENERGY STAR Qualified
- High Definition Resolution
Features:
19. TP-Link AV600 Powerline WiFi Extender - Powerline Adapter with WiFi, WiFi Booster, Plug & Play, Power Saving, Ethernet over Power, Expand both Wired and WiFi Connections (TL-WPA4220 KIT)
- WiFi powerline adapter provides up to 600Mbps Ethernet over power, up to 300Mbps WiFi. Ideal to be Ethernet extender who can easily go over the walls
- Network adapter with HomePlug AV support to easily add multiple adapters and works under 110-240V
- Power saving automatically reduces power consumption by up to 85%
- Wired speeds up to 600Mbps and wireless speeds up to 300Mbps. Perfect for connecting smart TVs, streaming HD video lag-free HD, and online gaming
- Compatible with all AV2000, AV1300, AV1200, AV1000, AV600, AV500 & AV200 powerline adapters
- Please note that powerline adapters must be deployed in sets of two or more
- Kindly Reminder: Powerline Adapters must be on the same electrical circuit for connectivity. Requires direct outlet plug in. Does not work with surge protectors. Appliances and devices running on the same circuit may affect powerline performance.
Features:
20. Asus AC1900 Dual Band Gigabit WiFi Router with MU-Mimo, Aimesh for Mesh WIFI System, Aiprotection Network Security Powered by Trend Micro, Adaptive Qos and Parental Control (RT-AC68U),Black
- Dual band with the latest 802; 11 AC 3x3 technology for combined speeds of up to 1900 Mbps
- 1 GigaHertz dual core CPU enables smart multitasking by dedicating separate lanes for Wi Fi and USB data; Network standard: IEEE 802; 11a, IEEE 802; 11B, IEEE 802; 11G, IEEE 802; 11N, IEEE 802; 11AC, IPv4, IPv6. Memory: 128 MB Flash; 256 MB RAM
- Effortless router setup with the ASUSWRT web based interface; Dual band connectivity for compatibility and performance
- Monitor and manage your network with ease from your mobile device using the intuitive ASUS router app
- A protection powered by Trend Micro provides multi stage protection from vulnerability detection to protecting sensitive data; Please refer the installation manual and the user manual before use which is highly essential; Dc output: 19 Volt with maximum 1; 75 a current; Guest network: 2; 4 GigaHertz x 3, 5 GigaHertz x 3
Features:
There are several ways to accomplish this. Other people in this thread have mentioned using a Raspberry Pi, or a wireless hard drive. These are both okay solutions, especially the wireless hard drive. However, I'd be worried about either of them being able to serve files to seven people at once. I just don't think that a wireless chip in a hard drive enclosure will have the power or speed necessary to make that happen. One or two people, sure, but not seven. Similar problems with the Raspberry Pi. The Pi would also be a significant amount of setup, would be pretty fragile given the number of interconnecting pieces needed to make it work for your needs, and you'd still have problems with bandwidth on just about any USB wireless card. There might be a solution with multiple USB wireless cards, but that just makes the whole thing that much more fragile.
I think what you need here for pure bandwidth purposes is an honest to god wireless router. Not a travel router, but the full thing. Modern wireless routers have USB ports on them, and you can plug USB storage devices into the router and have the router share the files on that storage device. So I think the right solution for you is a desktop wireless router and a USB hard drive.
The router is somewhat harder of the two items to find because of your physical size requirements. In addition, I think you don't want any protruding antennas which could break off. For that, I can recommend the Netgear R6300. I have the R6300v2, and I can personally attest that it's a fast, reliable router, and it measures 7.75" to a side.
Once you have a router, you need a hard drive. Get one in a small form factor that runs straight off a USB port and has a reasonable size. A 4TB drive should be more than enough, and you might get away with a 2TB drive drive depending on how much you want to store on it. I recently ripped my DVD collection and I was happy with the quality at about 1GB per movie. Since you'll probably be downloading movies from the internet, sizes and quality will vary. You may want to transcode the larger movies down to a more manageable size. You can batch transcode movies with Handbrake or other programs. Choose more aggressive compression and downsize 1080p movies to 720p, for example, to save space. Keep in mind that conversion takes a long time, so start early. Smaller files also stream more easily, so more people will be able to stream at once if you manage the file sizes well.
Good luck!
Your best bet is a somewhat not outdated to hell video card that properly supports hdmi 2.0 .
Also 1920x1200 is a 16:10 ratio NOT 16:9 , your tv is best with a 16:9 ratio
with your current card the best you could output to that tv and it look correct would be 2560x1440 (1440p) 16:9 ratio
you could do this with an ACTIVE DVI > hdmi adapter that supports full updated hdmi spec , You would then use the DVI ports on your video card (as thats the ports that support the resolution you would need )
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495939443&sr=1-1&keywords=dvi+to+hdmi+active
That being said , just buy a new video card. Don't try to hack a old card to get it to work with a modern TV with HDMI . just buy a new card , it doesn't have to be to fancy , almost anything around 60 / 100 bucks would be way better then what you have . grab a used one on craigslist or something , then you can just use HDMI directly .
Good luck man !
I was going to say, a sound card like that should be $3-6 (USD) so you are right in the range. Those things are great for testing but probably not so great as a permanent solution.
If you game or care about audio fidelity for any reason I would go out and buy a decent sound card, yes!
You could "go nuts" and buy something like this Creative Audigy but it probably isn't strictly necessary. Then again, it's only $40 USD.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Blaster-Audigy-Performance-Headphone/dp/B00EO6X4XG
Otherwise, just see what kind of port you have free on your motherboard and buy something for around $20 USD that fits. That price range should get you something respectable.
Example (PCI) sound card =
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Channel-Surround-Adapter-PCISOUND5CH2/dp/B00JLREDZG
Good luck!
I'd like to redirect everyone's attention to the first two sentences of the sidebar.
> 24hoursupport.helpdesk is your one stop shop for all questions. Ask away.
That said, most audio services, whether they be free or paid for offer various options for filetype/format, bitrate, etc.
With all that said, every portable audio playing device can play basically any audio format now, so it's up to you what you want to copy over to them. Mp3's have just gained so much main stream popularity it's all people know. Fortunately we've grown up from our early days of internet piracy where people were trading mp3's on napster with dial up connections and getting mp3 (96) (that's pretty poor quality). All of them except rapeTunes offers music in the highest bit rate of 320kbps. It takes a very good ear to be able to hear a difference between an 8MB MP3 320 and a 60 MB uncompressed WAV. And at that point only those interested in audio production/engineering/editing/etc. even care.
You can see how bandcamp supports stupid audiophile formats like "I'm a fucking hipster.FLAC". But for everyone else, it's a waste of bandwidth to supply these lossless formats to the masses. Most of which can't tell the difference between 96 and 320 version anyways.
Apologies for the "hind sight is 20/20" style of answer but compressed air into the exhausts are all you should ever need on a laptop for dust. I see maybe 2-3 laptops a month with overheating issues due to dust accumulation and a blast from the duster linked below will clear the issue every time, no need to disassemble.
My best advice moving forward would be to try and find a teardown video or any youtube videos of people disassembling your same model and see if you can spot anything you may not have put back. Despite best intentions and being very careful it's very easy to miss one thing when reassembling a laptop. It's also easy to forget which screws go where and a long screw where a short screw should be could cause major issues depending on placement.
Did you make sure to disconnect the battery before doing anything else "under the hood"? My first guess would be something not connected, second guess would be a possible short on the board. You can also try with no ram and see if you get any beep codes. Best of luck. Hope it's something simple.
I also don't know your level of comfort/care with taking apart reassembling laptops so please don't take offense if any of my advice seems basic.
https://www.amazon.com/Metro-ED500-DataVac-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001J4ZOAW
Okay, so the issue probably stems from the USB wireless adapter. Your spikes in CPU usage are almost definitely coming along with spikes in network traffic (uploading/downloading). The reason for this is that USB I/O is controlled by the CPU. (EDIT) By using a separate card it offloads much of the work from the CPU to a dedicated chip on the card itself.
Your best bet (and I'm assuming you have a desktop) is to replace the USB adapter with a PCIe x1 adapter. Something like this, this, or this. These cards all fit into a slot on your motherboard that looks like this (the small green one, could be any color though), so you'll need to ensure that you have a slot that can accommodate it.
By the way, I apologize if any of that was overly simple, I don't mean to offend.
I don't usually like all-in-ones but the motorola surboard modems are the best, so I'd probably get something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Motorola-SURFboard-Gateway-SBG6580-Wireless/dp/B0040IUI46/
which is basically the surfboard modem with a router built in.
This netgear wouldn't be bad either.
http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-DOCSIS-Cable-Modem-Router/dp/B00IF0JAYE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1406839994&sr=8-6&keywords=TG852G
If you plan on going with a triple play type service with phone in the future, you'll want something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Arris-TG862G-Residential-Gateway-802-11n/dp/B008KRLZCW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406840138&sr=8-1&keywords=router+voice
but the cost is going to be higher.
Ok, I've got a bit of an update. I ended up buying this TV (http://www.amazon.com/LG-50PT350-50-Inch-720p-Plasma/dp/B004LACPFS) instead of either of those other ones. It's 600 Hz plasma, but only goes 720p. I had to buy the TV today to get the deal that I got ($150 below cost!) but I won't be able to set it up until I move on the 1st.
Do you think that, by only being 720p, the increased refresh rate won't be a big problem? The main function here will be to play 720p videos from the PC onto the TV, gaming would just be a bonus.
Sorry for all the questions, but thanks a lot!
Edit: Apparently 600Hz plasmas still take 60Hz input, so I think this should be fine, according to what I can find on google anyways.
Maybe something like plume would be the ticket for you since you say you aren't super technically oriented.
https://www.plumewifi.com/
Or perhaps a powerline wireless extender. Instead of slowing down all your wireless traffic by repeating it, it passes it over your powerlines back to an ethernet port on your router. When it works well, it's great. Not all houses are ideal for powerline networking though, so until you try it you can't really say for sure.
https://www.amazon.com/Extender-Powerline-Starter-300Mbps-Wireless/dp/B00HSQAIQU
If you don't have a high end wireless router, you might just start there. A nice device like the Asus 68u can give triple your wireless throughput or more. With beam steering and 3x3 mu-mimo it will reach further and deeper than older devices.
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-band-Wireless-AC1900-Gigabit-Router-RT-AC68U/dp/B00FB45SI4
It has got to be your cable. I can't see what brand Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 you have, but most have DP and HDMI while a few also have a mDP. Like /u/Plastic_sporkz typed, get a DP to DP 1.2. I am confident with this selection. BTW, look at the questions and reviews of this product for a bit more information.
Wow. I just looked at BestBuy and Office/Max/Depot/Staples/TacoBell, and they don't have any.
According to this an i7 average temp is 50-65c
http://www.computerhope.com/issues/ch000687.htm
My suggestion, clean out your case all the way, clean and reapply thermal past to the heat sink. Also if you want to I have had fantastic results with this fan heats sink combo.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI
Buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-2-5-Inch-External-Aluminum-Enclosure/dp/B00E362W9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484077336&sr=8-1&keywords=laptop+hard+drive+enclosure
and
https://www.amazon.com/Jakemy-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics-Appliances/dp/B019ZSK57K/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1484077395&sr=8-9&keywords=screwdriver+set+small
Here is an altnerative to the case:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484077470&sr=1-7&keywords=laptop+hard+drive
In all likleyhood the hard drive has gone bad.
They do that you know.
You want a laptop 2.5 inch hard drive. SATA is really the only choice for interface these days.
Now would be a great time to move up to an SSD. I have a laptop at home that is a bunch of years old. I put an SSD in it last year and it really added a lot of zip to it.
When you put the OS on it you can go ahead and put W8.1 on it, but the Free W10 upgrade is still running if you know where to get it from:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/accessibility/windows10upgrade
What you would do is install 8.1 from the disks you have. Get the internet up, go to the desktop, don't bother with any updates (huge waste of time if you are just gonna follow through with W10) and go to that site I posted and follow there instructions.
Bonus points! Once you successfully do a W10 upgrade from W8 there is no more Windows key to worry about! Any future OS reinstall on this laptop Microsoft uses a unique identifier in the BIOS to do the validation.
Well you're only going to get the program if there's an installable file (.zip, .exe, even a .iso) somewhere on that disk. You don't need the OS to boot to get files off the disk. You just need to connect it up as a secondary drive to an already working computer and go exploring on it. If you have a desktop computer, you can hook it up as a slave drive in the case, or you could go purchase something like this to connect it via USB (this is a good investment if you do this stuff often).
Or did I totally misunderstand and the user want to boot this drive and use the program that is already installed on XP on this drive?
Please reply directly to my comment in the future so I'll get a notification.
You might have just messed up the thermal paste application, as the fans you currently have should be doing a much better job than they are. Stock coolers are never great, and I'm a big fan of the 212 evo which gets me to 4 GHz (up from 3.4 GHz) on stock voltages and 52C on load (AMD 965).
This is not being caused by any other component, it is just bad cooling.
I recommend AS5 for your thermal paste, as you probably don't have any on hand with the stock sink. You can just use isopropyl alcohol to remove the old paste.
I'm not entirely sure how you would make this entire thing work honestly.
I think the easiest way would just be to buy one of these https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-SATA-IDE-Adapter-CB-ISA225-U3/dp/B01E7EPKUO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=IDE+to+sata&qid=1556333351&s=gateway&sr=8-3
and then just plug it in your other computer and get it out that way.
Sorry, can't really offer much else
~$20 and your problem will go away lol
But seriously, here's a cheap usb hub that will give you 4 extra usb ports and here's a good wifi adapter for cheap. I added a smaller wireless adapter under the one from amazon just in case you didn't want that thing sticking out
USB hub:
http://www.amazon.com/High-Speed-Ports-White-Mini/dp/B00274NRRA/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1344004189&sr=8-12&keywords=usb+hub
Wifi adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-AE1000-Dual-Band-Extension-Refurbished/dp/B003VYH1UE/ref=sr_1_sc_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1344004235&sr=1-3-spell&keywords=wireless+usb+adaptper
http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Wireless-Micro-Adapter-WNA1000M/dp/B004VDR37K/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1344004469&sr=8-6&keywords=netgear+wireless+usb+adapter
Mini Wifi Adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-Wireless-Micro-Adapter-WNA1000M/dp/B004VDR37K/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1344004469&sr=8-6&keywords=netgear+wireless+usb+adapter
I would get a pcie nvme m.2 external enclosure that supports 10Gbps USB 3.1 gen 2 or is that now USB 3.2 gen 2? Anyway to take advanatge of the pcie nvme speeds don't bottleneck yourself with a 5.Gbps USb connection
https://www.atpinc.com/blog/what-is-m.2-M-B-BM-key-socket-3
you want either a B+M key or a M key
heres a example of a pcie nvme m.2 M-key connector external enclosure
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QVBZZTR/?coliid=I2TE1ACEDZ207D&colid=2CLAN336C1ACF&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
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I jusr re=read your post and it seems you want a sata m.2 ssd.
Looks like a SATA drive. I think you could use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Vantec-SATA-IDE-Adapter-CB-ISA225-U3/dp/B01E7EPKUO/ref=asc_df_B01E7EPKUO/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309743296044&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1842643210158902027&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032055&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-571722167468&psc=1
If you end up going the enclosure method, and don't know anyone that has one - [use this cable set] (http://www.amazon.com/Drive-Adapter-Converter-Optical-External/dp/B001OORMVQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344519708&sr=8-2&keywords=SATA+to+USB+cable) - $8 on Amazon with free shipping if you have Amazon Prime. Not an enclosure, but still lets you hook the drive up USB and is much cheaper than an enclosure.
You would need something along the lines of this USB Drive Adapter You will be able to browse the drive and hopefully get some of your files back.
Windows failing to start up, and the pre-boot diagnostics confirm that hard drive is failing.
Based on the service tag, it looks like the laptop is already out of warranty, so a new hard drive would be an out of pocket expense.
As for recovering data off the drive, you could pull the drive and use a [SATA to USB adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84?th=1) and hook it up to another PC and see if you can read data off of it.
If this doesn't work, your only other options are to restore from a backup, or send the drive to a data recovery service (very expensive).
Good luck to you.
Old spec = DP 1.1. (Can only run 4K @ 30hz).
New spec = DP 1.2 (Can run 4K @ 60hz).
You want 60hz.
I stand behind this recommendation. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005H3Q59U/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468899658&sr=8-2-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=display+oort+1.2+cable
What about this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJZJI84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Is this the same as what you said, just minus the enclosure?
pull the hard drive, if its wet, make it dry, bag of rice, the usual... salvage data first. plug that drive into another computer (usb-sata would work well) get your data safe first. then worry about the rest.
get this and keep that drive in a hag of rice until it comes in - https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-SATA-Drive-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467135731&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+sata