Best products from r/24hoursupport

We found 34 comments on r/24hoursupport discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 177 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/24hoursupport:

u/SnappyCrunch · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

There are several ways to accomplish this. Other people in this thread have mentioned using a Raspberry Pi, or a wireless hard drive. These are both okay solutions, especially the wireless hard drive. However, I'd be worried about either of them being able to serve files to seven people at once. I just don't think that a wireless chip in a hard drive enclosure will have the power or speed necessary to make that happen. One or two people, sure, but not seven. Similar problems with the Raspberry Pi. The Pi would also be a significant amount of setup, would be pretty fragile given the number of interconnecting pieces needed to make it work for your needs, and you'd still have problems with bandwidth on just about any USB wireless card. There might be a solution with multiple USB wireless cards, but that just makes the whole thing that much more fragile.

I think what you need here for pure bandwidth purposes is an honest to god wireless router. Not a travel router, but the full thing. Modern wireless routers have USB ports on them, and you can plug USB storage devices into the router and have the router share the files on that storage device. So I think the right solution for you is a desktop wireless router and a USB hard drive.

The router is somewhat harder of the two items to find because of your physical size requirements. In addition, I think you don't want any protruding antennas which could break off. For that, I can recommend the Netgear R6300. I have the R6300v2, and I can personally attest that it's a fast, reliable router, and it measures 7.75" to a side.

Once you have a router, you need a hard drive. Get one in a small form factor that runs straight off a USB port and has a reasonable size. A 4TB drive should be more than enough, and you might get away with a 2TB drive drive depending on how much you want to store on it. I recently ripped my DVD collection and I was happy with the quality at about 1GB per movie. Since you'll probably be downloading movies from the internet, sizes and quality will vary. You may want to transcode the larger movies down to a more manageable size. You can batch transcode movies with Handbrake or other programs. Choose more aggressive compression and downsize 1080p movies to 720p, for example, to save space. Keep in mind that conversion takes a long time, so start early. Smaller files also stream more easily, so more people will be able to stream at once if you manage the file sizes well.

Good luck!

u/SerpentDrago · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

Your best bet is a somewhat not outdated to hell video card that properly supports hdmi 2.0 .

Also 1920x1200 is a 16:10 ratio NOT 16:9 , your tv is best with a 16:9 ratio

with your current card the best you could output to that tv and it look correct would be 2560x1440 (1440p) 16:9 ratio

you could do this with an ACTIVE DVI > hdmi adapter that supports full updated hdmi spec , You would then use the DVI ports on your video card (as thats the ports that support the resolution you would need )

That being said , just buy a new video card. Don't try to hack a old card to get it to work with a modern TV with HDMI . just buy a new card , it doesn't have to be to fancy , almost anything around 60 / 100 bucks would be way better then what you have . grab a used one on craigslist or something , then you can just use HDMI directly .

Good luck man !

u/lastwraith · 2 pointsr/24hoursupport

I was going to say, a sound card like that should be $3-6 (USD) so you are right in the range. Those things are great for testing but probably not so great as a permanent solution.

If you game or care about audio fidelity for any reason I would go out and buy a decent sound card, yes!

You could "go nuts" and buy something like this Creative Audigy but it probably isn't strictly necessary. Then again, it's only $40 USD.

Otherwise, just see what kind of port you have free on your motherboard and buy something for around $20 USD that fits. That price range should get you something respectable.
Example (PCI) sound card =

Good luck!

u/jaredcheeda · 2 pointsr/24hoursupport

I'd like to redirect everyone's attention to the first two sentences of the sidebar.

> 24hoursupport.helpdesk is your one stop shop for all questions. Ask away.

That said, most audio services, whether they be free or paid for offer various options for filetype/format, bitrate, etc.

  • Bandcamp
  • MP3 (320)
  • MP3 VBR (V0)
  • AAC
  • Ogg Vorbis
  • ALAC
  • FLAC
  • Amazon
  • .mp3 -- Non-DRM files (320)
  • .m4a -- Non-DRM AAC files (320)
  • Fuckwads
  • .m4a -- Non-DRM AAC files (256)
  • .m4p -- DRM protected files that only work on proprietary hardware (128)
  • Ability to convert between MP3, AIFF, WAV, MPEG-4, AAC and .M4A
  • Google Play
  • cloud based storage, with option to download offline versions as mp3 (320)
  • Zune?
  • not even gonna look it up
  • rhapsody/napster
  • subscription based bs
  • CD
  • .cda
  • .cdx
  • can be ripped to .wav or literally any other media format. this is where most pirated music comes from (although this is slowly changing)

    • *

      With all that said, every portable audio playing device can play basically any audio format now, so it's up to you what you want to copy over to them. Mp3's have just gained so much main stream popularity it's all people know. Fortunately we've grown up from our early days of internet piracy where people were trading mp3's on napster with dial up connections and getting mp3 (96) (that's pretty poor quality). All of them except rapeTunes offers music in the highest bit rate of 320kbps. It takes a very good ear to be able to hear a difference between an 8MB MP3 320 and a 60 MB uncompressed WAV. And at that point only those interested in audio production/engineering/editing/etc. even care.

      You can see how bandcamp supports stupid audiophile formats like "I'm a fucking hipster.FLAC". But for everyone else, it's a waste of bandwidth to supply these lossless formats to the masses. Most of which can't tell the difference between 96 and 320 version anyways.
u/edward_nigmatic · 2 pointsr/24hoursupport

Apologies for the "hind sight is 20/20" style of answer but compressed air into the exhausts are all you should ever need on a laptop for dust. I see maybe 2-3 laptops a month with overheating issues due to dust accumulation and a blast from the duster linked below will clear the issue every time, no need to disassemble.

My best advice moving forward would be to try and find a teardown video or any youtube videos of people disassembling your same model and see if you can spot anything you may not have put back. Despite best intentions and being very careful it's very easy to miss one thing when reassembling a laptop. It's also easy to forget which screws go where and a long screw where a short screw should be could cause major issues depending on placement.

Did you make sure to disconnect the battery before doing anything else "under the hood"? My first guess would be something not connected, second guess would be a possible short on the board. You can also try with no ram and see if you get any beep codes. Best of luck. Hope it's something simple.

I also don't know your level of comfort/care with taking apart reassembling laptops so please don't take offense if any of my advice seems basic.

u/JimRaynor56 · 3 pointsr/24hoursupport

Okay, so the issue probably stems from the USB wireless adapter. Your spikes in CPU usage are almost definitely coming along with spikes in network traffic (uploading/downloading). The reason for this is that USB I/O is controlled by the CPU. (EDIT) By using a separate card it offloads much of the work from the CPU to a dedicated chip on the card itself.

Your best bet (and I'm assuming you have a desktop) is to replace the USB adapter with a PCIe x1 adapter. Something like this, this, or this. These cards all fit into a slot on your motherboard that looks like this (the small green one, could be any color though), so you'll need to ensure that you have a slot that can accommodate it.

By the way, I apologize if any of that was overly simple, I don't mean to offend.

u/Suppafly · 2 pointsr/24hoursupport

I don't usually like all-in-ones but the motorola surboard modems are the best, so I'd probably get something like this

which is basically the surfboard modem with a router built in.

This netgear wouldn't be bad either.

If you plan on going with a triple play type service with phone in the future, you'll want something like this:

but the cost is going to be higher.

u/Toast- · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

Ok, I've got a bit of an update. I ended up buying this TV ( instead of either of those other ones. It's 600 Hz plasma, but only goes 720p. I had to buy the TV today to get the deal that I got ($150 below cost!) but I won't be able to set it up until I move on the 1st.

Do you think that, by only being 720p, the increased refresh rate won't be a big problem? The main function here will be to play 720p videos from the PC onto the TV, gaming would just be a bonus.

Sorry for all the questions, but thanks a lot!

Edit: Apparently 600Hz plasmas still take 60Hz input, so I think this should be fine, according to what I can find on google anyways.

u/gusgizmo · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

Maybe something like plume would be the ticket for you since you say you aren't super technically oriented.

Or perhaps a powerline wireless extender. Instead of slowing down all your wireless traffic by repeating it, it passes it over your powerlines back to an ethernet port on your router. When it works well, it's great. Not all houses are ideal for powerline networking though, so until you try it you can't really say for sure.

If you don't have a high end wireless router, you might just start there. A nice device like the Asus 68u can give triple your wireless throughput or more. With beam steering and 3x3 mu-mimo it will reach further and deeper than older devices.

u/ccbbb23 · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

It has got to be your cable. I can't see what brand Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 you have, but most have DP and HDMI while a few also have a mDP. Like /u/Plastic_sporkz typed, get a DP to DP 1.2. I am confident with this selection. BTW, look at the questions and reviews of this product for a bit more information.

Wow. I just looked at BestBuy and Office/Max/Depot/Staples/TacoBell, and they don't have any.

u/northup41 · 3 pointsr/24hoursupport

According to this an i7 average temp is 50-65c

My suggestion, clean out your case all the way, clean and reapply thermal past to the heat sink. Also if you want to I have had fantastic results with this fan heats sink combo.

u/yo-yo-baggins · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

Buy this:


Here is an altnerative to the case:

In all likleyhood the hard drive has gone bad.

They do that you know.

You want a laptop 2.5 inch hard drive. SATA is really the only choice for interface these days.

Now would be a great time to move up to an SSD. I have a laptop at home that is a bunch of years old. I put an SSD in it last year and it really added a lot of zip to it.

When you put the OS on it you can go ahead and put W8.1 on it, but the Free W10 upgrade is still running if you know where to get it from:

What you would do is install 8.1 from the disks you have. Get the internet up, go to the desktop, don't bother with any updates (huge waste of time if you are just gonna follow through with W10) and go to that site I posted and follow there instructions.

Bonus points! Once you successfully do a W10 upgrade from W8 there is no more Windows key to worry about! Any future OS reinstall on this laptop Microsoft uses a unique identifier in the BIOS to do the validation.

u/chrisma08 · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

Well you're only going to get the program if there's an installable file (.zip, .exe, even a .iso) somewhere on that disk. You don't need the OS to boot to get files off the disk. You just need to connect it up as a secondary drive to an already working computer and go exploring on it. If you have a desktop computer, you can hook it up as a slave drive in the case, or you could go purchase something like this to connect it via USB (this is a good investment if you do this stuff often).

Or did I totally misunderstand and the user want to boot this drive and use the program that is already installed on XP on this drive?

u/A_Water_Fountain · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

Please reply directly to my comment in the future so I'll get a notification.

You might have just messed up the thermal paste application, as the fans you currently have should be doing a much better job than they are. Stock coolers are never great, and I'm a big fan of the 212 evo which gets me to 4 GHz (up from 3.4 GHz) on stock voltages and 52C on load (AMD 965).

This is not being caused by any other component, it is just bad cooling.

I recommend AS5 for your thermal paste, as you probably don't have any on hand with the stock sink. You can just use isopropyl alcohol to remove the old paste.

u/danielsuarez369 · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

I'm not entirely sure how you would make this entire thing work honestly.

I think the easiest way would just be to buy one of these

and then just plug it in your other computer and get it out that way.

Sorry, can't really offer much else

u/shockwaveriderz · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

I would get a pcie nvme m.2 external enclosure that supports 10Gbps USB 3.1 gen 2 or is that now USB 3.2 gen 2? Anyway to take advanatge of the pcie nvme speeds don't bottleneck yourself with a 5.Gbps USb connection

you want either a B+M key or a M key

heres a example of a pcie nvme m.2 M-key connector external enclosure


I jusr re=read your post and it seems you want a sata m.2 ssd.

u/savageronald · 2 pointsr/24hoursupport

If you end up going the enclosure method, and don't know anyone that has one - [use this cable set] ( - $8 on Amazon with free shipping if you have Amazon Prime. Not an enclosure, but still lets you hook the drive up USB and is much cheaper than an enclosure.

u/Ajsec · 2 pointsr/24hoursupport

You would need something along the lines of this USB Drive Adapter You will be able to browse the drive and hopefully get some of your files back.

u/The_American_Stig · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

Windows failing to start up, and the pre-boot diagnostics confirm that hard drive is failing.

Based on the service tag, it looks like the laptop is already out of warranty, so a new hard drive would be an out of pocket expense.

As for recovering data off the drive, you could pull the drive and use a [SATA to USB adapter] ( and hook it up to another PC and see if you can read data off of it.
If this doesn't work, your only other options are to restore from a backup, or send the drive to a data recovery service (very expensive).

Good luck to you.

u/sudogreg · 0 pointsr/24hoursupport

pull the hard drive, if its wet, make it dry, bag of rice, the usual... salvage data first. plug that drive into another computer (usb-sata would work well) get your data safe first. then worry about the rest.

get this and keep that drive in a hag of rice until it comes in -