(Part 3) Best products from r/3Dprinting

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
   
2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
   
3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
   
4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
   
5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).
   
   There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:
   
   

• Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  
• 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  
• Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  
• A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  
• An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  
• A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  
• Small bags (for silica beads),
  
• PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  
• Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  
• SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  
• Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  
• Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  
• E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  
• Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  
• Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  
• And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...
  
  Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..
  
  ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!

Hi people, longtime lurker first-time commenter!

(Incoming wall of text. Just trying to be thorough!)

​

I'm looking to buy a new dual extrusion 3D printer; specifically one that can support soluble support materials such as HIPS or PVA. High layer resolutions are preferred (~<0.1mm) but are not absolutely necessary.

• Budget: $1000 max; prefer staying within the $300-800 range. Amazon strongly preferred but printers sold directly from the manufacturer are okay as well.
  
• Location: US
  
• Pre-builts or kits are both fine. I work for my college's 3D printing lab so technical maintenance is not an issue. Although I would prefer not having to go through extensive modifications on the printer (i.e. printing new spool holders or installing a glass plate is fine, but replacing the motherboard and installing 10 new cooling fans is not).
  
• The printer is for personal use. I currently own the MP Select Mini v2 and love the high detail it provides. However, a lot of parts I'm interested in printing/designing are unprintable w/o the aforementioned support material or resin-based machinery.
  
• SLA/DLP/Polyjet 3D printing is not an option unfortunately. Spacing, high ventilation, and waste removal restrictions prevent me from jumping onto that fun wagon for now.
  
• The printer must be Cura/Simplify3D/Slic3r compatible (basically no proprietary only software; gcode is the go to).
  
  I've currently looked into several newer printers but can't figure out which one is likely the most reliable:
  
  

1. BIBO Dual Extruder and Laser Engraver - $829: I don't recognize this company and I'm still not sure why there's a laser engraver in the device but I won't complain (although this does raise some flags regarding safety). It seems to check all the boxes with dual extrusion, open-source slicers, 0.05mm layer res, etc., but it is a bit pricey and uses firmware I have yet to see on a 3D printer before (if anyone can elaborate on the firmware's reliability or whether it could be flashed w/ Marlin please do!).
   
2. Flashforge Dreamer - $799: Fully enclosed and working right out of the box is nice, but I know Flashforge really likes to push their Flashprint software (although reviewers state it is Simplify3D compatible so let me know if other open-source slicers work!). Product description states it can only print from 0.1-0.2mm, however.
   
3. Monoprice Dual Extruder (Fully Enclosed) - $799: I am partial to the Monoprice brand simply because all my experience with their devices were always excellent. This printer comes with some nice additions such as Auto-Resume features and print monitoring. However it pretty much requires separate spool holders (unless you buy small 200g spools from their website) and recommends its proprietary slicing software. Whether or not this device supports Cura is not confirmed in what few reviews exist for this machine.
   
4. FlashForge Creator Pro - $670: Another Flashforge machine which has all the same quirks as the Dreamer albeit for a slightly older model at a cheaper price. Uses buttons instead of a touch screen which is just a minor gripe. May have wiring issues according to some negative reviewers which is a big safety concern if true. Supports Simplify3D according to the product description but has no mention of Cura which makes this an iffy buy for me.
   
5. QIDI TECH X-Pro - $699: A company I haven't heard much about but I know they make budgety 3D printers (relatively speaking). High layer resolution like the BIBO and has Cura support (although it provides a modified version of it with a lot of options disabled according to reviewers). Firmware is also iffy and the printer may not have the highest build quality making this likely a no-go.
   
   These are pretty much all the printers I have found. Devices that merge two filaments into a single extruder are unpreferred as they are pretty iffy when printing with two different types of materials and need to create purge blocks really increases print time. Right now I'm learning towards the BIBO but would like to hear more about the device.
   
   If anyone has any other recommendations or additional experience with dual extruder 3D printers let me know!
   
   ​
   
   (P.S. I accidentally turned this comment into a wall of text as there was only so much information I could find on reliable, (relatively) affordable dual extrusion 3D printing. Maybe some would be willing to collaborate to make a post covering more info so others don't have to look so far!)

My Mini did that all the time. It's a problem with heat creep. It's getting too warm too high up which softens the plastic, allowing it to curl around. My Mini has been a workhorse for nearly a year and I think it's mostly a very solid machine, but the stock cooling setup sucks. A single 30mm fan for heatsink and layer/part cooling just doesn't cut it.

Easiest solution is to upgrade the fan. Even sticking something like a 40x10mm fan onto the original shroud with an adapter will help a little. A 50x15mm blower will do even better (they just move so much more air). Snip/strip the wire for the original fan, do the same for the new fan, then twist red to red, black to black and put some insulation on it. Doing that would fix the heat creep and also improve overall print quality since you can cool the extruded material better too.

Other solution would be to swap the hotend. Something like an E3D V6 or a decent clone will improve print quality, allow for a wider variety of materials and also not suffer from that problem since they're just designed better. Swapping hotends sounds really invasive, but it's actually pretty darn simple. Print a 2-in-1 fan duct and put one of those bigger fans on it and you'll practically never have that problem again.

I'm looking to replace an old NewMatter mod-t (RIP) with something a little more... um... functional. My budget is ~$1k (but for the right printer, I could go a little higher). Here's my ideal:

• Dual extruder
  
• Medium size print bed (at least ~150x150x200mm, but bigger the better of course)
  
• Fully enclosed (and reasonably nice to look at)
  
• Good range of material support (so heated bed)
  
• Support for CURA, S3D + OctoPrint (plus Octolapse ideally, so either built in camera, or good mounting point for a camera)
  
• Wifi support nice, but not required (if not Wifi, USB is a must)
  
  
  So far, these are the printers I'm looking at. Feel free to critique selection/recommend others as appropriate:
  
  
• Monoprice Dual Extruder
  
• QIDI Large Size (But this fails on the dual extruder)
  
• Flashforge Dreamer (Which I believe is more-or-less the same as the Monoprice above)
  
• BIBO Dual Extruder (Which has bonus laser engraving module)
  
  
  I'd still consider myself a beginner at this, so this may not be the best list, but hopefully someone can help me narrow down a selection.

SILK PLA is amazing. it DOES have serious issues. the stuff is crazy strong but very very poorly sticks to itself (brittle layer adhesion) Print it hot 220c higher if the plastic behaves for you.

so thin parts? forget it. your not likely to get it off the bed without cracking it (use ultra base)

and even 3 perimeter 25% infill grid parts can "snap" if the nozzles catches an edge (broke my adalinda dragon a few times) and if you drop it it will break.

BUT the results are simply stunning.

Here are some links (gold is not in stock that I can find right now) these are direct non affiliate links. if you want to help me out goto todays3dprint.com and use any of the links their (and then these links) but you don't have to.

Silver (I have not tried this one but they all print the same)

https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Silver-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B06XSBFB17

Copper
https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B0761PMW3X

if this one was prime I would be ordering one as it looks VERY nice.

These from 3d Solutech are dirt cheap and some of my favorites! I have printed with all of them except the lavendar. I have it just have not used it yet in a print.

They call them "ultra pla"

Yellow

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KACX8

sample print Drogon

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ImOW0N1LNSA

Blue (my favorite)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175BLU

Sample Print Adalinda (75 hour print truly stunning)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZV0LTx-MlY&t

Green (out of stock right now)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175GRN-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KPNUK

Sample Print. Aria Dragon (another truly stunning model)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3g-5oyVsyRA

White

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175WHT-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5KFRHO

Sample Print (Loubie Swan)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOavv-K-mYw

Red (really pink I have yet to find a true RED silk they all come out pink)

https://www.amazon.com/3D-Solutech-3DSUPLA175HPK-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B01B5LIL58

Sample Print (faceted Tree)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbuFM0UUo2c&t=100s

Here is the GOLD I used (sample print squirrel)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOavv-K-mYw&t=420s

but its not available right now (not sure if it is coming back or not)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XRPYXP2

again. its a PAIN IN THE ASS filament but damn are the results incredible. worth the suffering :-)

again the links are "clear" direct links. if you want to help me visit one of the links to amazon in my videos first which will help me out. or use the direct links here if not.

in general search for "ultra" or "silk" PLA.

Poly Alchemy ALSO makes some disgustingly gorgeous SILK PLA's !! check out Night Shade and Night Sky in particular to be truly awestruck with the beauty of these filaments

Here are some higher resolution images of some of these filaments

Poly Alchemy Night Shade (stunning and dark)
https://i.imgur.com/tyMb4Xn.jpg Another
https://i.imgur.com/fphprtA.jpg

Poly Alchemy Night Sky (I love this one)
https://i.imgur.com/BWv59dv.jpg Another
https://i.imgur.com/9zz93el.jpg

Poly Alchemy Bubble Gum
https://i.imgur.com/6WyaMIY.jpg

Elixr is NOT CHEAP $30 for 750 grams or something like that. (its around $50 a kilo)

in the US Printedsolid.com sells it.

3D Solutech Ultra Green
https://i.imgur.com/5n7nQZx.jpg

As you might be able to tell I REALLY like these plastics :-)

• For containers I just use 1 pint cheap plastic containers that soups come in or deli give you. I guess you can find a nice piece of Tupperware that is about that size, and a taller one for taller prints. You could probly just ask the Deli guys at a food store for a few empty 1 pint containers + lids.
  
  
  • 2 containers - one with pure IPA and one with clean water. Good lids that won't leak.
    
    
• 91% or 99% IPA for cleaning your build plate / resin vat / scraping tools / desk / etc. and for using in the print wash container. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABPUGH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• More gloves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF49NJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My palm width is about 3.6 inches / 9.2 cm and I bought the XL which fit ok.
  
  
• More paint strainers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQELZ7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Better removal tools: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Also get some Xacto knives + extra blades + sand paper sheets in varying grit 300-400 count for smoothing off support marks. https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527015690&sr=8-6&keywords=xacto+blade
  
  Try to find the flexible sand paper sheets that are meant to be hand-used. I found them in Loews 3m brand, this is the exact type of sheets i use: https://www.amazon.com/3M-COMPANY-28320SB-UF4-320G-Sandpaper/dp/B00PPD1CYA/ref=sr_1_7?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1527015867&sr=8-7&keywords=sandpaper+320+grit+3m
  
  
• Find a source for cheap paper towels. I use the real cheap paper towels that you find in bathrooms, the stuff that's really stiff and crappy. I don't use name brands such as Bounty or whatever because the higher quality kitchen paper towels leave behind bits of cloth dust, which is unwanted for cleaning the resin vat / build plate / LCD screen. You'll also go through shitloads of paper towels and the higher quality towels are a waste of money. https://imgur.com/7XeelfV
  
  
• Get a couple sunglasses cleaning cloths. Not the microfiber cloths with the consistency of a bathroom towel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L77OXE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B009L77OXE&pd_rd_wg=OcvWJ&pd_rd_r=3AAAFBB1202BXG3K8QN0&pd_rd_w=cwumx That's just an example - you can probly finder cheaper and better sized/quality towels such as: https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0050R67U0&pd_rd_r=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ&pd_rd_w=0uPs5&pd_rd_wg=eAMNx&psc=1&refRID=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ
  
  I use these cloths on the LCD screen and the resin vat FEP sheet. After cleaning the resin vat FEP sheet and the LCD with paper towels, I give them a nice polish with the cleaning cloth to remove any other smudges or dust. Make sure to have a cloth dedicated to ONLY the LCD screen, as you want the keep the LCD screen pristine and free of dust and smudges.
  
  You'll also want a print curing station to harden the prints once they have been cleaned. I bought:
  
  
• A plastic cookie jar; clear plastic, round: https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/oxo-good-grips-reg-3-piece-pop-canister-set/3262796?categoryId=12605
  
  
• UV LED Light Strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZQZDBR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Heavy duty tape, such as duct tape or gorilla tape. I used black gorilla tape.
  
  
• Aluminum Foil
  
  

1. Wrap the LED strip around the plastic container to this effect: https://imgur.com/oB98Qxl . Make sure you wrap so that the power cable connector will be at the bottom of the container. Make sure you secure the beginning and the end of the LED strip to container with a piece of tape.
   
   
2. Wrap the LED'd container with aluminum foil - shiny side facing inward. Lay out a long piece of foil on the floor, shiny side facing up, just enough to cover the container's length once. Secure the beginning of the foil piece with a piece of tape, and then secure the end of the foil. Try to wrap without causing creases in the foil, keeping the foil as shiny and smooth as possible. Make sure your power cable plug in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   
3. Secure a piece of foil to the base, shiny side facing inward.
   
   
4. Secure a piece of foil to the lid, shiny side inward. Take a piece of tape and make a 2-sticky-sided loop to secure the foil. Make sure the foil is not interfering with the lid's ability to securely close.
   
   
5. Wrap the whole thing with your gorilla or duct tape. Make sure your power cable plug-in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   

Hi, Im new to owning a 3D printer but have done several different prints at my college.

• I am currently studying computer engineering and am planning on printing stuff with micro-controllers, robotics, small electronic components, and maybe some RC projects. Anything related to that sort of stuff.
  
• My budget is up to anything around $1000 ish. If i can save money tho then that would be a great perk.
  
• I live in the USA
  
• Im totally down to do a bit of assembling, especially if it involves saving a little $$$
  
  I have been doing a lot of researching my self on 3d printing technologies. One of the things Ive noted is dual extrusion vs single extrusion. Also Ive heard a glass bed is very important?
  
  Ive read that dual extrusion can be good for certain applications like printing a structure with two materials, one which is dissolvable . Ive also read that dual extruders can have a tendency to cause a print to fail as the material can cool down in the extruder not being used. This then can cause issues when that printer extruder is used again within the same print as the material on the end does not heat up again properly?
  
  Ive looked at several good bang for the buck printers(on paper)
  
  
• Prusa i3 MK3(with multi material upgrade????) - Why is this printer mentioned...everywhere???? whats so good about it vs other printers?
  
• Flash forge 3D printer creater pro
  
• QIDI technology Xpro
  
• BIBO 3D??
  
  Please give me as much info as possible. I really don't have any experience with using different printers at all, and am really open to some good internet education. So please comment away :)

You didn't specify if you bought a kit or fully assembled, but ill assume it's a kit ;)


-

1. Follow the online instruction. Grab yourself a laptop/tablet since online has higher res pictures and comments per steps.
   
   

• Before each step see the comments under them to see if others have had trouble or give their alternative insight on an issue.
  
  
  

2. When assembling it, make sure you are doing this all on a flat, even surface. I did this on my granite kitchen counter top just so i wont run into alignment issues during calibration
   
   
3. Once you have it built, calibrated and working, it is customary (per say) to print a 3D Benchy, to get insight if the printer needs any fine tuning.
   
   
4. Must have recommendation
   
   

• OMG get these e3d silicone socks!. I've had dozen's of successful prints and these socks have helped so much from preventing THIS
  
  
• If you plan to use exotic filament (eg: wood, metal, carbon fiber), GET A HARDENED STEEL nozzle. The stock BRASS nozzle (0.4mm) is only good on non-abrasive filament (eg: regular PLA+ABS)
  
  
• 3D Print Removal Tool Spatula
  
  
• Restock on PEI Sheets!. These are what are recommended by the community as per cost effective and reliability and i think shipping is ~$9? So get more than one for the future. The ones on amazon are !@#$ overpriced!
  
  
  
  
• (optional, didnt like the power cord being bent) Left Angle Power Extension Cord.
  
  edit: I found this on thingiverse to make the PSU cable left angled
  
  

5. Start learning (if you haven't) to use Fusion 360 (most preferred), 123D, or TinkerCAD to print you whatever creativity you have.
   
   AVOID SKETCHUP!!.
   
   
6. Once you have a successful working, printing machine, start printing replacement parts for your printer! As Josef Prusa has stated, it's ok to print the machines parts out of PLA, If you wanna go with something more durable, go for PETG. eSun PETG Orange is what i use. BUT FIRST, make sure you adjust the Slic3r setting and a few test prints to print parts in PETG since it's finicky to work it.

I did some quick looking around for your price range, but the 2 companies I looked at were outside your price range. I’ll tell you about them

https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/printer-upgrades/183-original-prusa-i3-mk25smk3s-multi-material-2s-upgrade-kit-mmu2s.html#

This one is below your budget. I have not used this printer myself, but I have heard Prusa makes good printers.


This second one that I am suggesting is higher than your price range, however it has some perks

https://www.amazon.com/BIBO-Extruder-Engraving-Printing-removable/dp/B01LNADH8M

This printer I personally use and I LOVE IT! the quality is amazing and it prints in two colors. It comes with a dual extruder to print 2 colors vs the cheaper printers 1 extruder. The customer service is from China so there may be delay if you get any issues. But if they are working there, they get back to you in around 2-3 minutes! I am currently running into a issue with it, but the staff is currently helping me!

If you are wanting to save money, I would go with the first link, but if you want to go a bit on the expensive side go with the second link.

I would also like to add that it takes filament (basically ink for a 3d printer). I have used many brands myself and prefer the hatch box filament shown here:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=hatchbox+pla&crid=1KZTLA5DWOJQP&sprefix=hatchbox&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_8

There are many kinds and colors, but go with any color you prefer but... ONLY PLA!!! The Abs is stronger but it rarely ever works.

Thanks for asking

Pretty new to 3d printing but really interested. I basically just want to print stuff that people post and probably dabble in designing my own stuff. I am a technical guy, but I know that the designing of the models is pretty tough. I have sifted through the comments and saw two printers that stood out to me within the range I was thinking of. The CR-10 and the Prusa i3. I don't know which version is good for the CR-10 and I'm looking in the $400 range, but could go up to $800 if you guys think my value would be best there. Here are other printers I was looking at and not sure how everyone feels about those. If anyone can give me some feedback about them it'll help immensely in my decision.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8NM6JO/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3MX1XJ2F9XGZ7&colid=30UBVRH3KC9LH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07421SR9J/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3SEAHNKKLM0QY&colid=30UBVRH3KC9LH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016R9E7J2/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I205Z5A0OGO6ZD&colid=30UBVRH3KC9LH

Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.

I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.

These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.

Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.

One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.

The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.

The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.

That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.

Good luck!

Perhaps try to slow the speed down a bit, this allows your print to cool down more between layers. The layer height could cause an issue too, the larger the layer height the more plastic that needs to cool. Your probably don't need to heat your bed either (if you have a good first layer and level bed), this will keep the print warmer than it needs to be. Adding a part cooling fan with a duct could also help cool your pla quicker. Here's a thingiverse project that could work for your printer:
Semi-Circular Anet A8 Fan Duct found on #Thingiverse

You may need to buy a fan like this too:
SoundOriginal 2pcs Cooling Blower Fan DC 12V 0.15A 50mmx15mm Fans for 3d Printer



Also the nozzle size to layer height ratio could cause issues. I think the general rule of thumb is your layer height should not exceed 75% the nozzle size, so if you have a 0.4 nozzle then 0.3 should be your max layer height.


Personally I would cut the layer height in half and slow the print down to 40mm/s but crank the travel speed up to 150mm/s and see how it turns out. You can try placing a house fan pointed at your bed to help with cooling, I do this for prints with a lot of overhang.


Hope this helps.

A good set of calipers. A good set of hex wrenches. A soldering iron with a heat set insert tip. A pair of good needlenose pliers for grabbing things. A set of deburring tool bits. A Tandy Leather #4 leather edging tool (works really well for removing brim) A knife (I use my leatherman Wave for most plastic shaping tasks) And most important of all, my super high tech part from bed removal tool: http://www.amazon.com/Calphalon-Gadgets-Dual-Cheese-Plane/dp/B000SDQGL6 (that with the slicy bit taped over is the best part separation tool I have ever found, and I have literally tried hundreds of them at this point)

Here is my CR-10S.

I added the Petsfang fan fang. Added this fan to the fang.

I added these Z-Axis braces. Added these LEDs to the Z-Braces.

I'm printing on a mirror tile with a sheet of PEI bonded to it.

Last week I added the TH3D EZABL and have been encouraged by the results. It creates a Z-offset map of the build plate before every print. I can see the Z-steppers move during X-Y moves so I can tell it's working. Manual bed-leveling was working OK for smaller prints, but I could never get all 4 corners to agree with the center height. I suspect my aluminum bed plate is shaped like a Pringles chip.
I really like the Marlin Firmware over the OEM version. I don't mind not having auto-resume since I plugged my printer into a UPS system.

Right now my printer is about 20 hours into a 60-hour print of a T-Rex skull. I've been really happy with this printer! It was my first and I've been having a ball with it.

Did you print using the generic filament they give you? I also just purchased this printer and printed the same thing but I used Hatchbox filament and it printed perfect. I wish I had a better answer but I'm also new to printing. If you haven't ordered one of these yet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C3HEQZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 order it right meow well worth the $$ and a glass bed will make your print bottoms butter smooth https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QQ5Q3BI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No problem, stuff happens. Anyway, if you want the bed to be totally static, it's rare you see that outside of delta designs. Typically the bed moves on the Z axis with CoreXY machines, just because I'm pretty sure moving the whole gantry would be a pretty strenuous process for the motor. The only kind of cartesian machine I can think of right now where all of the movement is done on the axes is a design by Printrbot meant to make an effectively infinitely extendable monstrous printer, called the Big E, so perhaps you could look to that for inspiration?


As for your electronics, I'd say start with a basic RAMPS board. I bought this recently, and it seems solid. I can't vouch for its quality yet as I've yet to actually use it. Given the sheer size of a machine you want to build, I'd think you might want to look into NEMA23s, though, and those require a beefier board, so I'm not sure where you'd begin to look for something like that. I think your best bet right now is to make a new post, to get some visibility.

Get some essential tools: those wire cutty clipper things (for cutting support structures off your prints) and a painter's scalpel for peeling prints off the heatbed.

Consider getting the upgrade kit for the ender 3 pro sometime; the flexible removable heatbed is a HUGE convenience for getting prints off and cleaning the heatbed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072WS3M9H

This angle bend is EXTREMELY helpful. You don't have to get this specific product, but trust me that you want a tool like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A81FXMK

The scalpel I bought isn't for sale anymore but this one looks good enough.

Look into purchasing a PEI (Polythermide) sheet to put onto your printing surface. I did so and it works incredible!

Just make sure that you take your time while applying it to reduce the amount of air bubbles. I picked up this kit from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KGDTPQK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: It takes virtually no maintenance, and everything sticks to it incredibly well. I also forgot to mention that I have only tested it with ABS, but I hear PLA works well too. I have also heard that PETG sticks better than ABS or PLA.

Edit 2: I also should mention that I was able to stick it directly to the aluminum bed. Make sure to clean it really well if you do plan on taking this route.

Country: USA

Budget: $400-$500

ok so I had the Monoprice Maker Select and it just conked out on me. So I'm looking to get a replacement but my budget is limited as I didn't expect to have to replace it. I know for a fact I want something easier to level. I hated leveling the bed. SO far I have it narrowed down to a few choices:

Flashforge Finder - Pros: Guided Leveling. Cons: Small build area.

Da Vinci Mini - Pros: Super cheap, Auto-Leveling. Cons: SMall build area (though slightly larger than the flashforge.)

Da Vinci Pro - Pros: Guided Leveling, Large build area, can use multiple different types of filaments. Cons: None that I can see.

PowerSpec 3D Pro 2 - Pros: Dual extrusion, Fully enclosed, medium sized build area, good with flexible filament. Cons: Manual Leveling. I don't know anything about this one, only that it is a rebranded Flashforge Creator Pro.

Before I make the purchase I would like to get some opinions from some people that have or had these printers. If you know of a better suggestion feel free to post it. If you have reasons why these are crap, etc.

If you haven't looked into it, a regular $30 food dehydrator will work. this is what I got, works great. Use the temps listed Here and it will be fantastic.

Bonus points if you add a lazy susan bearing to the bottom, and add a bowden connector to feed filament through as it stays dry during a print. Works fantastic for the hygroscopic Nylon and PETG filaments. I've run PLA through as well and it does print better even though it doesn't absorb as much water.

I second this. I’ve gone through at least 30 spoils of Inland because I pass a micro center on both legs of my work commute. It’s $15 for pla and $18 for petg and they work great. The colors aren’t great but who cares. Recently they color formula has changed a bit and the colors have definitely improved. [Amazon] ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQB85PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_In16Ab8RMSNNG ) has recently started carrying it on prime so no need to live near a MC anymore.

Hey! I got the same printer and was using ABS for my first couple prints. Couple things--First the built in items on the SD card are sliced for PLA printing, so you need to up the temps on the extruder and bed--I had success just upping it to 240/80. This got it to stick, but I had to get my z positioning (the thumb wheels on the corners) just right. Also I absolutely needed a raft for anything to really stick.

If you're slicing your own items in Cura, the default filament size is 2.8mm and you're probably using 1.75mm filament.

Unfortunately on any prints longer than an hour the ABS would start to curl off the bed--I chalked that up to the somewhat breezy room I have my printer set up in currently.

tl;dr Make sure your bed/z is leveled precisely so that a piece of standard printer paper can slide underneath the nozzle in each corner with resistance. Try upping your temps and checking your slicer settings as well.

/u/Redditull mentioned a glass bed. I picked one up on amazon, this fits the bed pretty nicely (just lays between the corner screws)--you do need to raise your z-stop, there's a metal lever contraption screwed into one of the sides of your printer's frame that you need to unscrew and raise. I also attached a PEI sheet to this and I used thermal pads to attach all this to the bed. This all improves adhesion greatly, I've mostly been using PLA after the difficulties I had but I would imagine ABS would stick just fine as well.

Borosilicate Glass

PEI Sheet

Thermal Sheet

100% correct. This stuff is pretty amazing. I've tried a couple of spools of silk blue from a couple of different vendors and they make very good prints as well.

Polyalchemy and Prusament both have some colors I can't get from other vendors. Getting gorgeous prints from the Polyalchemy Bubblegum (pink) and their deep purple.

My first couple rolls were Monoprice's MP Select PLA+, which is about $20/kg and often on slight discount. Pretty good stuff.

I've tried Inland PLA, which is Available on Amazon or locally if you're near a Microcenter.. It's made by eSun. $15/kg with prime shipping. It's pretty much fine, though a little touchier about temperatures, and it's a little more brittle. The different colors also seem to need slightly different settings, especially black.

I've pretty much standardized on eSun's PLA+. Just a little more expensive at $22-$23/kg, but less brittle.

Any of them would be a fine first PLA. The prints have turned out great with all three, and I still rotate through them, as I have some colors in from Monoprice and Microcenter that I don't have in eSun. Reports vary (google "Inland eSun PLA" for a sampling), so some of this may also be confirmation bias. I don't regret purchasing any of the above.

There are 3 fans total I've replaced. I can't find the link to the last one. But you don't need to buy these. Any 12v fan that fits the right dimensions :) for sure check out the thingiverse group there is great info there.




SoundOriginal 2pcs 4010 Brushless DC Cooling Fan 12V 0.06A 40x40x10mm Speed 6800 RPM Fans for Computer case 3D Printer Humidifier and Other Small Appliances Series Repair Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773MW3X7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LjVBCbSWFDDND




SoundOriginal 2pcs Cooling Blower Fan DC 12V 0.06A~0.15A 50mmx15mm Fans for 3D Printer Humidifier Aromatherapy and Other Small Appliances Series Repair Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WMHNG5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wlVBCbQ1FPK89

For me high speed (Dremel/finishing sander) sanding on PLA only made things worse.

The plastic started to melt into the sandpaper, ruining the sandpaper quickly without accomplishing much.

If the details of the print can survive it, the best way to finish PLA is to hide everything under primer paint.

Hit the PLA with 120 and 220 sandpaper by hand. Light and slow are the operative words here--plus patience. 120 may not be needed or may even be counter-productive on 0.1/0.05mm parts.

Do a second pass with 400 grit. The part should be relatively smooth to the touch.

Then I apply filler primer (smaller details, not going to sand, don't want to smother) or sandable filler primer (flat surfaces, larger details, both details and surfaces can be sanded by hand).

Filler primer of either sort works best in many light coats rather than a few heavy applications.

Sand filler primer with 400 (or 220 if there's somehow too much of it). You can even step up to 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 (I did this to ONE part). Again, light and slow or the sandpaper will quickly pick up paint that is now mashed in, ruining it. Don't bother hitting the PLA with anything above 400 grit--it doesn't work well and eats through sandpaper. You're better off using higher grits on the paint rather than the part.

Finally apply whatever paint or other colors you want on top of the primer.

I highly recommend a competent "shop-vac" to contain dust and lengthen the lifetime of your sandpaper. If you don't sand too "hard" most of the plastic/paint will vacuum right out, greatly extending the lifetime of each piece.

Actually, the parts are pretty standard, so it doesn't really matter where you buy from.

I bought them from various sources (electronics markets, amazon, and some local shops), so my links are just to be seen as examples:

• PSU Switching Power Supply 400W 12V 33A for 3D Printer Kits 115V/230V S-400-12 (got mine locally for 20€)
  
• MOSFET BIQU Heat Bed Power Module Expansion Hot Bed MOS Tube for 3D Printer or alternatively TriGorilla 3D Printer Heating Controller MKS MOSFET for Heatbed Extruder MOS Module (this one is huge, but powerful)
  
• Power socket & switch https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Certification-Socket/dp/B00ME5YAPK - here any 10A 250V 3 Pin IEC320 C14 type will do
  
• T-Belt RepRap Champion 5 Meter 6mm Width GT2 Timing Belt for Reprap Delta 3D Printer Kossel Rostock
  
• Pulleys BIQU GT2 20Teeth 3mm Bore Aluminum Timing Belt Idler Pulley for 3D Printer 6mm Width Timing Belt (Pack of 5pcs)
  
• Bushings 3D Printer Solid Polymer LM8UU Bearing 8mm shaft - Igus Drylin RJ4JP-01-08 for Anet A8 Prusa i3 3D Printer RepRap (warning: you need 8 pcs of these bushings. Couldn't find any listed offer with 8)
  
• Borosilicate Glass Signstek 3D Printer MK2 MK3 Heated Bed Tempered Borosilicate Glass Plate 2132003mm
  
  Printed upgrades:
  
  
• Z-Endstop for 3mm Glass
  
• Improved Fan duct or Fan duct for Anet A6 because my original fell out and killed a print as well as the fan mounting plate
  
• PSU cover
  
• Y-Belt holder
  
• Table nut and cover spring
  
• Anet A6 Dual Mosfet Holder (works only for the small MOSFETs)
  
• Z-axis calibration spacer (not really necessary but nice to have) - print two
  
  There is one small error in the assembly videos: The bed mounting plate (the H-shaped thing) is mounted upside down in the video. The bar that goes across the axes and connects both outer plates should be under the plates, not above as in the assembly videos.
  

Hello all,

I'm trying to solve a persistent clicking / extrusion / constant print failure problem with my Qidi X-One 2.

I own a Qidi X-One 2, and for the last few weeks I am experiencing a clicking, extrusion problem that I cannot seem to fix. The filament twists and turns coming out of nozzle.

I changed the nozzle and tube a few weeks back, and printed ok for a few prints, but now the same problems are back. I only use PLA.


I recently placed this order through Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVIYNFW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used the cleaning filament last night, following the instructions on the package. I ran about one to two feet. I tried cold pull but the filament broke both times and did not pull all the material from the nozzle.

I ran some more cleaning filament, and then switched to my Solutech white PLA. I started to run the PLA to flush out the cleaning filament, and as this happened, clicking is back, and the filament twists and turns coming out of the nozzle.

Its like it did nothing!

I have also ordered some needles for nozzle cleaning, but these haven't arrived yet. I have also ordered some more nozzles and tubes, and will exchange for new ones when they arrive. But ultimately I would like to prevent the problem from happening in the first please.

Please let me know what else to try. Any help is greatly appreciated as I am fairly new to 3d printing.

Thank you!

I've been getting great results with the Logitech C270 webcam.

If you break it out of the case you'll find there is a focus ring which allows you to manually focus and get really close to prints! The ring is glued in place but will break free with a firm twist.

I designed a quick and dirty case to hold the PCB. I was going to add a nice cover but I noticed the board runs warm, so I left it open. There are plenty of prettier solutions on Thingiverse.

This acrylic glue is my go to. I have a 2 stage epoxy that works really good if i need something more robust, but for general use this one works great. From my understanding it kind of "melts" the plastic to create a chemical bond rather than just adhesion. Its super runny and when you first open it there is some outward pressure, so it starts oozing immediately. No biggie for me, just use caution.

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC-Medium/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1FERU4CKFPZ3&keywords=acrylic+glue&qid=1550383054&s=gateway&sprefix=acrylic+glue&sr=8-3

Snapping during a print is usually an indication of moisture absorption, get a food dehydrator and try drying the roll before you give up on it. Rosewill has a rebranded one which is basically the same OEM as the $125 Printdry system.

My budget go to is still Inland from Microcenter, their PETG and PLA+ is supposed to be Esun, regular PLA is Polymaker. Another vote for Atomic filament here, I only used their PETG but diameter and color are super consistent and some colors even have Pantone code (I've had a few of the darker colors of Inland vary shade during long prints or between consecutive smaller prints). Veracity from Filastruder is also super consistent for color and diameter from the PETG and HTPLA (listed as ProPLA) I've used and comes in MasterSpool compatible coils.

I have been looking into 3d printing and decided the best place to start would be with an ender3 so that I would be able to have quality prints, for a reasonable price. However, looking on several websites there are different prices and I am just not sure which one would be best to go for.

Amazon has the ender-3 from Comgrow for $230 here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BR3F9N6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2ALB3RMNIRLH8&psc=1

However, it says the official one, again for $230 is here: https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Printer-Source/dp/B07D218NX3/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=creality&qid=1569107314&s=gateway&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWjJVQlE0MjhKMEQ2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODU2MjU2MzNSMTQ2SlFGUjg1OCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODA4ODAzMldSNTRQMDZOTzBXQyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I also found a website listing it on sale for $189 here: https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_1845898.html?

I got the last link from Maker's Muse video and I am just very confused. I do not want to spend more money than I need to as filament is also rather expensive.

Any help would be appreciated, I really want to get it for the cheapest price without it coming in damaged or in a month.

There isn't a way to do it without having seam lines, and you, being the one that made it, will always see them. Some people may not notice them for a while, but upon close inspection they will become obvious.

All props that I have made have peen printed, assembled, finished, in that order. If you want to keep the stainless steel pla visible, there isn't really anything I can think to do. In terms of part assembly I trust nothing but Krazy Glue. It dries in about 10 seconds, and another 30 seconds or so and the bond is stronger than the later bonds of PETG, which is known for its layer strength. Absolute nightmare if you mess up. If you do mess up, or are not confident on the seam, separate immediately.

If you're looking to go the painting route then I would assemble it, fill the gaps with some Bondo. Wait for it to dry, sand it flush, use some Filler Primer, then spray paint it. Once painted, cover in a Clear Coat so the paint doesn't rub off.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask and I'll get back to you.

sure here you go - https://i.imgur.com/3tu1tOt.jpg

2 ender 3's are in the pic, The left one is called Yoshi and the right one is called Ironman. (normally yoshi has all blue parts and ironman has red. but i did some swapping around last few days)

I have 2 cameras a cheap one and an expensive one. as you can imagine the expensive one gives way better time lapses. this video in particular was filmed using the logitech c922.

logitech c922 is around $75 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-C922x-Pro-Stream-Webcam/dp/B01LXCDPPK

and the logitech c270 is only around $20 - https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Widescreen-designed-Calling-Recording/dp/B004FHO5Y6

The logitech c270 does 1280x720 however only around 15fps which is fine for timelapses but i like to check on my printers using my phone over wifi and the frame rate sucks. It can handle 30fps at 640x480 if you don't mind the resolution.

However the c922 i got handles 1080p at 30fps, i run it at 1280x720 at 60fps, which means i get no delay in the image when i watch it on my phone. plus it seems to be much better at low light level and focus.

I ran led lights around the outside of the strip and it gives more of a consistent lighting. about $10 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Waterproof-Holiday-Outdoor-Decoration/dp/B075R4X1XL

Both printers have bl touch and marlin 1.1.9 and custom boot screens. https://i.imgur.com/HnjgJCh.jpg

I have another video here https://youtu.be/ATbcqLi4Trg i am still learning and practicing how i want to make the timelapses and working on some larger projects such as sanding and painting.

let me know if there is anything else you wanna know!

Edit: The camera mounts i am using:

Left: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3326741
Right: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3165335

I've been using a woodburning tool which is an adjustable temp soldering iron type of deal with multiple nozzle attachments when I want to heat smooth any PLA, works great if a little awkward to hold due to the heat shield. I mostly use it for the exacto blade attachment since it slices PLA like the proverbial hot knife through butter and couldn't be happier with that aspect of it and would be kind of lost without it.

​

I picked mine up at a Michael's in the wood crafting section, if you're in the US go there or amazon something like this https://www.amazon.com/Walnut-Hollow-Versa-Temp-Temperature-Woodburning/dp/B005P1TRAS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=wood+burning+tool&qid=1559074816&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spell-spons&psc=1 as I think that's my exact model.

​

I also do heat welding/smoothing with a 3Doodler 3dpen with the nozzle removed and a pin vise drill bit embedded in the hot end to conduct heat to a fine pointy tip for super fine detail. About the only use I have for that 3d pen since it's incompatible with my typical filament diameter and I won't buy their proprietary overpriced filament on principle lol. But the little attachement modification I made to it is too useful to return the device so I keep it.

​

This isn't a perfect solution, neither of these are and are going going to be useful in certain circumstances but you can royally mess up your prints with heat smoothing, especially when you're not mindful and the heat shield melts off a giant chunk of your piece. Not to mention toasting the hell out of your fingers from time to time. Anyway it's useful but not a magic bullet. Best way I've got to smooth prints is using filler primer, filling compound and sanding and I stick to the heat tools for cutting and welding these days, but I did try for awhile to perfect this, just not ideal for my needs. Useful tool to have though for this hobby, like I said couldn't do without the exacto attachment it's worth it just for that!

Looking to get into 3D printing mostly for wargaming terrain and some other misc things. Trying to stay on the cheaper side of things: $200-250.

Been looking at the Ender 3 and this filament since there are several different shades for the price.

Is there anything else I might need with that printer? Does anyone have experience with that filament or is there a better kind that is around the same price point?(Doesn't have to have multiple colors, just thought I would get something with multiple colors to begin with) Last question, what is the best software if I plan of using the printer mostly with Ubuntu?

Thanks in advance.

Safe as in how? Plastic model cement doesn't weld PLA like it does styrene models. It doesn't stick very well, either. Super glue is good, but it tends to fog the plastics. I have found this stuff - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HNFLMY - to be the best. It actually does weld the plastic together, similar to model cement.

I use this dial controlled “pyro pen” or wood burning tool for various cleanup tasks, especially removing supports from small bits on figures. The included “x-acto” blade works great. This specific model will dial down pretty low though I’ve never actually measured the temperature.

Walnut Hollow Creative Versa Tool with Versa-Temp Variable Temperature Control & 11 Woodburning Points (Tips) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005P1TRAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_7SkWCbW11FD6E

I have a Flashforge Finder and I highly recommend it. It's right at $500. It's incredibly user friendly compared to a kit. There's almost no setup and fiddling, it prints well out of the box. The software is good, the touch screen interface is cool, and it's been reliable.

https://www.amazon.com/FlashForge-3D-Printers-New-Model/dp/B016R9E7J2

I have something similar, if a bit less messy. I have a tub with all of my spools of filament in it except the one in use, and a big desiccant pack made for safes. I just make sure to switch filament every few weeks, or more often when it's humid; that's generally not a problem because I also switch filament for other reasons, like color.

It works like a charm. I just need to bake the desiccant every two or three months, which is a lot easier than shoveling a half dozen rolls of filament into my oven.

Here's the pack I am using: http://www.amazon.com/Dry-Packs-Gram-Silica-Canister-Dehumidifier/dp/B003QZ6PZ0/

Looks like you have a clog in your nozzle. Happened to me recently and i had to end up swapping the whole thing out.

Do your self a favor and grab one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Hotend-Nozzle-WANHAO-FlashForge-Builder/dp/B01C3HEQZC/

Its an all-metal hot end upgrade that is all sorts of better than what came stock on your printer and really easy to install. It will also fix the issue you're having right now.

Otherwise you need to figure out a way to get what ever is clogging your print head and causing you to under extrude out.

This guy: here super cheap and helps the printer grab onto the filament a little bit more. I noticed that mine would sometimes slip during retractions. I'd also make sure you are using the little clips that hold the ptfe tight into the coupler. Excess play here can also cause issues

I've also had issues due to bad tape. The green frog tape is horrible. Before I got my PLA sheet, I used the cheap wal-mart type wide blue painters tape and it worked great. I liked to use kapton, but it's just too delicate to last very long. I was changing it out every 2 weeks. PEI is the answer (waay tougher than buildtak)...lasts about a year and everything sticks to it. Also, since PEI has such good adhesion, your z level is a little more forgiving for that first layer.

https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_328_bs_img_2/136-9930884-8852130?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B25F74EX68VYED1NFMY2

He means like this, adhered to glass, or directly to the heater.

I'd personally recommend glass with hairspray. Best print bed I've gotten yet!

210-215 so far. The printer auto heated to 215, then I tried at 210 since that's what the Hatchbox directions said. Is this the hotend? I actually already purchased this but didn't install it yet. So I should purchase this as well? Thanks so much for the help!

Best bet?

Buy a $5 clear plastic tote, drill a little 2.5mm hole in the side, put the spool coaster in there and put 1 of these in there:

http://www.amazon.com/Dry-Packs-Gram-Silica-Canister-Dehumidifier/dp/B003QZ6PZ0/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1411685410&sr=8-16&keywords=desiccant

Now you have a drying box to keep nasty moisture out of your filament and its protected from dust / hair.

Depending on size of box, you can even store multiple rolls of filament in there and keep them all dry and ready to go.

Consider getting some cleaning filament. This is an example from Amazon but there are other manufacturers/vendors with similar products.

It is not for printing, only cleaning. Its temperature range is quite broad, it's sticky, and has huge die swell, all of which make it great for cleaning.

To use, run it through at the temperature of the last used filament. It melts and sweeps up the residual stuff. Then prime with the new filament (at whatever temperature is appropriate for that) and good to go.

I am also interested in changing the bearings on the y axis and the x axis. Are these good bearings to make the printer quieter and maybe more stable?

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Don't buy the filadry one. It is the exact same as this:

www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Countertop-Dehydrator-Adjustable-RHFD-15001/dp/B018UR4XJI/

There are spool holders for it on thingiverse. I am sure there are others but this one is super cheap and I have it so I can vouch for it's effectiveness.

I always recommend the FlashForge Finder as someone's first 3D Printer. Comes fully assembled and ready to print (aside from levelling the bed). 14 x 14 x 14 cm build area, high quality prints. I use one for PLA orders for my online shop. It's also built like a brick shithouse.

In theory, they are. The Ender 3 Pro is slightly different, since it uses a wider extrusion for the bed rail, making it more stable (in theory). If you're looking to buy on Amazon, I believe this is sold by Creality themselves and fulfilled by Amazon (which might make any warranty replacements easier):

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Printer-Source/dp/B07D218NX3

I've tried clips with glass. The problem is your printhead and/or cooling fan will hit the clips unless you're really careful. I recommend the silicone thermal pads.

http://3dprinterwiki.info/wiki/wanhao-duplicator-i3/duplicator-i3-basic-mods/adding-a-glass-bed/

I've also tried hairspray on glass, and gluestick on glass, and painter's tape on glass. To hell with all of those, it's always either not sticky enough, or too sticky. Get yourself a sheet of PEI to put on your glass. It's soooooo much better than anything else. Perfect adhesion while printing, then your part just pops off easily when it's done.

Thermal glass $12: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Printer-Heated-Tempered-Borosilicate/dp/B00QQ5Q3BI

PEI + adhesive $17: https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK

Time to upgrade to one of these perhaps? Either that, or try adding some blue threadlocker to the threads of the connector.

As for getting the filament back on the spool, you can set the printer to retract it, but it's a very slow process. I would probably just wind it back by hand carefully.

You can buy a food dehydrator on amazon for like 30 something bucks and then you just cut out the tray part from each stacking ring and there you go! Took me like 10 minutes and it is perfect for drying PLA and PETG.

Rosewill Countertop Portable Electric Food Fruit Dehydrator Machine with Adjustable Thermostat, BPA-Free 5-Tray RHFD-15001 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018UR4XJI

Similar (prob identical) models can be had from Ali express for cheaper if you don’t mind the long shipping time.

Also if you want to print from the dehydrator you can put a lazy Susan in there and make a little hole to feed filament through. This is exactly what the filament dryer and feeder they sell for 100 bucks is constructed of.

I'm a huge fan of the silk copper/bronze filaments. Silk gold is pretty good too but when people look at prints with those silk copper or bronze they more often ask if they're actual metal.

https://www.amazon.com/Bronze-Filament-Printer-Printing-Material/dp/B07FCC3TJG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537377823&sr=8-3&keywords=silk+bronze+filament

https://www.amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0761PMW3X&pd_rd_r=c5eff776-bc30-11e8-85dd-873fcc9bd247&pd_rd_w=mfPAa&pd_rd_wg=SPizH&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=FY9NVDFGYTQ7G7B53M61&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=FY9NVDFGYTQ7G7B53M61

I highly doubt it's the SD card. If it was the SD card the printer would likely just simply stop instead of continuing to move without extruding. It could be a settings issue, something you changed and forgot to set back though.

Is the extruder motor still moving, or in your case likely grinding away bits of the filament? That's an important question.

Did you make sure to get all the PLA out before going to PET-G and vice versa? If you plan to do filament type changes on a regular basis you should pick up something like eSUN's cleaning filament. It has a really wide temperature range (150C to 260C) which means it's good for making sure you've got all your previous filament type out.

Just printed my first ninjaflex test print and it came out way better than i expected. The only problem is how long it takes for all the previous filament to be cleaned out. I was thinking of getting the following from eSun but wanted to make sure there wasn't any other options I'm missing.

http://www.amazon.com/Printer-CLEANING-Filament-Makerbot-Printers/dp/B00MVIYNFW/

If anyone has used eSun with a bowden setup i would love to hear how you used it. Did you put it right into the hot end by removing the PTFE tubing or did you just put in a piece between your filament chance and have the new filament push it though? I'm just wondering how that would work with ninjaflex already being hard to get back pressure on with a bowden.

Nozzles are all generally brass. Those should be expected to be replaced from time to time. They are relatively cheap. The Microswiss upgrade is more than just a nozzle. It replaces the stock hotend with all metal. In your stock hotend is a PTFE tube that can cause jams, will deform if heated too high, and prevents you from using certain materials. The microswiss is a relatively inexpensive and easy way to fix this.

I recommend the block too: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503589251&sr=8-1&keywords=microswiss

However you can save a little money:
https://www.amazon.com/Hotend-Nozzle-WANHAO-FlashForge-Builder/dp/B01C3HEQZC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503589251&sr=8-3&keywords=microswiss

It's not quite as cheap as in store but I've also had good experience with Inland brand (what microcenter sells) on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQB85PG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BJU1DbVX3WYNF

So I want to get the Ender 3, and unfortunately I’m locked into using Amazon (gift cards). There’s a litany of different listings for the Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro; I’m not sure which listing is best, or if there’s a real difference. The prices are within a reasonable range of each other (230-250 for the regular, 270-300 for the Pro), but I know that QC can vary widely by machine. Does anyone know of/have any suggestions for which listings are the most reliable? I’m leaning towards the regular since the Pro features aren’t something I’m interested in as much.

Various Listings:
Creality Ender 3 3D Printer with Resume Printing Function for Home & School Use 220x220x250mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FFTHMMN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1QfxCb1NEWRV0

Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Printer Fully Open Source https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D218NX3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sRfxCbNXRZ5AW

Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro Upgraded 3D Printer with Removable Magnetic Bed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K3SZBHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XRfxCbH8D4B7B

Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Pro Upgraded 3D Printer with Removable Magnetic Bed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K3SZBHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XRfxCbH8D4B7B

Right now I'm looking at possibly getting a 3D printer, and these are the 2 I'm looking at.


Anycubic Upgraded Full Metal I3 Mega 3D PRINTER with Ultra Base Heated and 3.5" Touch Screen


And


FlashForge Finder 3D Printers with Cloud, Wi-Fi, USB cable and Flash drive connectivity


Which of these two is best?


​

Capillary issue hadn't occurred to me before, but it makes sense. But if you are going to acylic matte prime it anyway, I guess trying to fill those layer gaps first is a step worth taking.

Something like a filler-primer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CT4AM0/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Oh yeah most definitely. Here is a link to the RAMPS kit that I bought and Here is a link to the E3D clone I bought. For this clone to work I printed an insert for the heatsink.

I've used a fair amount of inland filament, and I like it a lot. Currently selling for 16.99 on Amazon. Comes in a bunch of colors too. From what I've read, it's the same as eSun filament which usually goes for about 22 bucks a kg.

I use a Logitech C270 with OctoPrint running on an Raspberry Pi 3. It's only 720p but it is pretty cheap.

https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Webcam-Widescreen-Calling-Recording/dp/B004FHO5Y6
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-960-000694-C270-Webcam-Black/dp/B004FHO5Y6

I got something like this from Home Depot. It might not have been this exact one, but it's similar. Latching lid. It'll hold 5 or 6 spools, no problem and you can see right through the sides and top.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Sterilite-70-Qt-Ultra-Storage-Box-19888604/204606576

Then, I got a couple of these. They suck the moisture right out of the air and when the beads on top turn greenish, you just take the lid off and bake them for several hours to drive the moisture off and recharge them. This size is designed for large home safes and can service 50 or so cubic feet, so it'll last long enough in the box to not be a nuisance and constantly needing recharging.

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B003QZ6PZ0/

Finally, I got a battery powered hygrometer with an alarm on it, set it to 30%, and threw everything in the box. A single canister keeps the box at around 25% humidity, and that's with nothing done to the lid to make it seal better and be more airtight. The other canister stays in the box, but sealed up in a couple of ziploc bags to keep it from picking up moisture. When the grains in the canister turn green or the alarm goes off, the sealed up canister comes out of its bag and replaces the in service canister. The in service canister goes into the oven for 6-8 hours to recharge (don't forget to remove the lid so the window doesn't melt). Once it's recharged, I let it cool, then it goes into the ziploc bags ready for the next swap.

One of those canisters will bring the humidity in the box from 60-70% down to 20-30% in an hour. Two tops.

Glad you figured something out, there are these as well:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005P1TRAS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_rnXfxb9BQNTF9

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJW08JK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_4nXfxbPS230AX

I have this here and never had any issues. Works great and gets anything off my PEI so far. https://www.amazon.com/Foreasy-Printer-Removal-Enhanced-Version/dp/B01A81FXMK/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1483558574&sr=1-4&keywords=3d+print+removal

I got this one and it's working great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761PGLZ4

For sure. http://www.soliforum.com/topic/2816/howto-converting-to-a-ramps-controller/

Pretty helpful sub, you can always ask me for help if you get stuck along the way. Also, I used the Makerfarm Pegasus instructions for putting the RAMPS together.

This is the kit I bought, it was mostly complete but I had to order some jumpers because I was short a few. http://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

I use two of these containers, one for PLA one for ABS:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DJOP2/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I put two of these in each container:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QZ6PZ0/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are very big, bigger than most car oil filters. At the rate they are going (in Florida) I probably won't have to bake the silica but every 6 months. So maybe that would be an option for you? My humidity meter doesn't go low enough to measure the humidity when the container is closed and sealed (it has an o-ring on the lid). I think the meter won't go below 22% humidity or something along that range.

When you open up the container cool breeze comes out of it (again in Florida outdoors).

Yeah, it was a printer i got for a good deal from china. My old board melted and shorted out so I had to get this new one.

Is there a way to enable eeprom on this board? I'm not having much luck finding any article online on how to enable it.

Also, is this everything I would need to convert it to the arduino with ramps? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ZNj3wbQV2DV9T

credit to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:196038

You can't really appreciate the filament unless it's moving and I don't have a fancy turntable so I stole the one from my microwave lol

edit: the filament is https://smile.amazon.com/Silk-Copper-Filament-Printing-Material/dp/B0761PMW3X/

Had to get spare aluminum strip, and aluminum blocks from FFCP directly.
my glass bed from amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY8F172/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
thermocouples from amazon as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QKQ8G0E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 note they are 4mm and 24volt, thats unique to flashforge, my model at least.
and heating elements from amazon as well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SUYVLYC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 again note the 24v specialty, apparently flashforge is one of the few that uses that, everyone else is on 12v or something?
and lastly but most importantly, the all metal hot end. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C3HEQZC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 dual printing sucks, i just run 1 nozzle.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00YQB85PG/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=7c42q&pf_rd_r=1HBQXMEFVZB9J56RSVBC&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00YQB85PG&pd_rd_w=1qfkg&pf_rd_i=filament&pd_rd_r=ac884abb-a45a-4faa-9662-644d81871e55&ie=UTF8&qid=1511805028&sr=1

Sorry about the long link, it's the same stuff and same price with free amazon 1 day shipping. I've used this pretty much exclusively for the past 7 or so months after having some issues with other brands.

A lot of people swear by plain white (so you can see any stuck crud) ABS. I personally never print ABS and don't want to buy a spool just for cleaning, so I was happy to find eSun cleaning filament. It looks expensive, but you only use 6 inches/150mm at a time. The big pluses for the cleaning filament are that they are "sticky", so should do a good job pulling crud out of the hotend, plus they melt over a very wide range, so if a bit gets left behind, it'll melt right out even if you print PLA next.

Yes it is a Tevo Tarantula

​

Modifications i have made:

• inverted z axis mod
  
• fan duct with one of these fans (or something similar)
  
• I laser cut a different y axis carriage (you could prolly just print a stiffer y axis carriage instead of laser cutting)
  
• belt tensioners (x and y axis)
  
• playstation eye camera mount for octoprint
  
• im using the titan extruder clone that came with it
  
• brackets for rigidity
  
• i changed the firmware from the default to Marlin 1.1.9
  
  those are all the mods i have (i think if i have any more ill edit this comment)
  
  with these modifications and some fine tuning of the settings for my filament i can get some pretty good print quality
  
  ​
  
  ​
  
  ​

If your prints have become crap but no real changes in settings, you might have a clogged nozzle or a slipping PTFE tube.

Grab some nozzle cleaning filament and shove a few inches of that through your nozzle (while it's hot if course) and see if that improves anything. If you still have issues, you may need to disassemble your hotend and look for issues. If the PTFE tube has started slipping, you'll have a large pool of melted filament just above the nozzle and below the tube you'll have to clear out

for your size, this would be the easiest solution.

You just wouldn't be able to sand it. But it can still last a long time if you're careful with it.

Ok seems it was $20.

Someone recommended this https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Upgraded-Replacement-Aluminum-Extruder/dp/B0761PGLZ4 in a reddit comment.

Since I was at that moment testing a calibration cube at 135% flow rate and still seeing random under extrusion I figured. Why not?

just barely mounted it last night so haven't done much printing.
Apart from a cube and a cable catcher that failed.
But the layer lines are excellent compared to before.

Sorry.. I fell asleep for a bit..

In the left pane at the top is "connection" where you set the port and baud rate. From other responses it seems the manufacturer screwed you on that though as it only does .gcode files. That is crazy.. I never heard of that as gcode is kind of an industry standard for CNC and 3D printers.

The ramps board is not too bad for most printers I've seen, but you would have to open up your printer controller and look at the plugs to gauge how hard it would be. Go on Amazon and search for "Ramps 3D mega". I got a kit with the RAMPS board, Arduino Mega 2560, 5 a4988 stepper controllers, 5 heatsinks, and a serial cable for $25. For $35 you can get one that includes a display and rotary encoder.something like this and then you just have to flash the firmware of your choice on there.

I've been thinking of buying my first 3D printer, and found the [FlashForge Finder] (https://www.amazon.com/FlashForge-3D-Printers-New-Model/dp/B016R9E7J2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8). Do you think it is a good first buy?

I did this one

I am already running this but have not yet recieved this
EDIT: I just saw the Microswiss extruder plate. I have not purchased that. If you have it, do you recommend it?

I have an Anet A8 with Ramps 1.4 and a BLtouch sensor. I used the Anet A8 Config file and adjusted a few things to enable my BLtouch. This video helped me a lot to understand what each line of code is doing, so I wasn't just assuming everything was right. I do believe I have different stepper drivers though, if I'm not mistaken my drivers are the A4988's that came with this Ramps kit on Amazon.


Edit: Sorry I'm not much help I got mine to work by following countless videos and wikis. Some specific for Anet, some specific for the BLtouch, and some for general Marlin firmware. Then I compared all the above to fit my setup as well as going over my config file many times for reasureence. If this post doesn't make headway try r/aneta8

This is what I usually use. Pretty much whatever the hardware store has, though.

I use a hotend cleaner when I switch filaments, it works very well with removing old particles.

eSUN 3D Printer CLEANING Filament... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'm using a new Maker Select with this filament. I've done some mods already:

Glass bed with hairspray and binder clips

Fan duct

Z endstop

Extruder gear

My Y carriage was warping, so I modified this one

I'll post any settings I'm using, if that would help.

I want to clarify that when this person is saying "PEI over glass" that this person is saying to put PEI [on top of] borosilicate glass, not in place of glass.

A sheet of PEI with 3M 468MP adhesive tape to borosilicate glass is a game changer. Use simple binder clips to keep it on the bed.

------

Edit: I stand corrected. OP was genuinely saying to use PEI instead of glass. I don't suggest adhering PEI directly to your plate because you're not always going to want to print on PEI depending on your material, and PEI will eventually get bubbles and warp and you'll want to be able to replace it.

Source: Have used PEI for over a year now.

At the minimum to replace the board, I'd say replace the board with a RAMPS, so either 35$ https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ or 30$ if you skip the LCD https://www.amazon.com/Wangdd22-Printer-Controller-Mega2560-Compatible/dp/B01G6ON5H8/ (The maker select LCD doesn't work directly with the RAMPS without some modification)

Then you'll need a dupont crimping tool and some housing to redo some wires. For another 30$. You might be able to get away with using some pliers instead of a crimping tool.

Honestly I'd try seeing if you can get a replacement from wherever you bought it from first.

Oh haha sorry.[ Gizmo dorks] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KGDTPQK/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483410646&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65)

I have used a bigger metal containers more desiccant for the money and a good container
http://www.amazon.com/Dry-Packs-Gram-Silica-Canister-Dehumidifier/dp/B003QZ6PZ0/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1464254806&sr=8-12&keywords=dessicant

Someone mentioned putting Mimi litter in a sock:
http://www.amazon.com/Mimi-Litter-Crystals-Absorbent-Lightweight/dp/B00I6N5WCE/

Better tool than the one shown in his video, comes with variable temperature knob and flat end and other tips.

http://www.amazon.com/Walnut-Hollow-Versa-Temp-Temperature-Woodburning/dp/B005P1TRAS

Would suggest adding this bits kit to give more hot end shape versatility.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024JMIPA/ref=pd_aw_fbt_21_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=139FHWPPGW5KYRDHVAQA#immersive-view_1456844011167

Ah thanks. Have you tried the aluminum extruder drive feeder mod ?

OSOYOO 3D Printer Kit with RAMPS 1.4 Controller + Mega 2560 board + 5pcs A4988 Stepper Motor Driver with Heatsink + LCD 12864 Graphic Smart Display Controller with Adapter For Arduino RepRap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111ZSS2O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

If you can't get the piece of metal out all you really need is a new hotend, possibly just the nozzle but might as well upgrade. A common all metal hotend upgrade is the microswiss > https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C3HEQZC/

Setup took maybe 20 minutes or so total. Assembling takes about 10, then about another 10 to get the bed leveled. Assembly is literally just 6 bolts you screw in. The bed leveling is a bit of a pain but not difficult. Directions say to use a piece of paper during leveling, but I found it more accurate to use a feeler gauge instead if you have one handy, if not the paper will work.

I tried the painters tape and had some success but still kept detaching from the base about 1/2 the time. I did not try glue or hairspray. While researching lots of people mentioned the PEI sheet so I figured I'd gamble on it. I have printed 7 or 8 things with it and only had 1 that didn't stick and that was probably my fault because I did not remember to wipe it down with rubbing alcohol. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484765745&sr=8-2&keywords=pei


My suggestion is try it with the stock surface and/or the painters tape and see what kind of luck you have. If you have issues with sticking, then buy the PEI sheet.

I think that the bearing failure might be cause by over-tightening the u-bracket holding it one. I also had this failure and I ended up replacing the bearings with solid polymer ones that seem to work pretty well so far.
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS

Hi all,

I'm hoping for some assistance / buying advice.

I'm looking for a 3D printer to start learning 3D printing on, with the view to print TPU eventually once I manage to get hard plastic print jobs working. I am looking specifically for one that is not too difficult to maintain.. but no idea if this is possible as lots of youTube etc videos are all putting me off :D

I've narrowed the selection down to the following.. but they could all be terrible.

Any help much appreciated!

📷

Flashforge Creator Pro - UK's Official Flashforge Distributor

3.9 out of 5 stars
(2)
£748.00
£748.00

📷
Tiertime UP mini 2 3D Printer

3.1 out of 5 stars
(2)
£521.00
£521.00

• 📷
  
  Sindoh 3DWOX DP200 3D Printer
  
  £1,499.99
  £1,499.99
  
  📷
  
  Flashforge 3D Printer Finder Single Extruder Printer
  
  4.6 out of 5 stars
  (107)
  £342.00
  £342.00
  
  5 Used & Newfrom £342.00
  
  📷
  
  JGAURORA Desktop 3D Printer with Soft Magnetic Build Plate, Single Extruder Printer PLA/TPU Printed (Deepskyblue)
  
  5.0 out of 5 stars
  (1)
  Colour : DeepskyblueWe don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.Go to the product detail page.
  
  📷
  
  3D Printer Desktop by WEEDO M2 Metal Frame Structure Fully Enclosed and Assembled Single Extruder with Air Filtration Quiet and Healthy
  
  5.0 out of 5 stars
  (1)
  £449.00
  £449.00
  
  📷
  
  BIBO 3D Printer Metal Frame Dual Extruder Laser Engraving WIFI Touch Screen Cut Printing Time In Half Filament Detect Demountable Glass Bed
  
  5.0 out of 5 stars
  (14)
  £689.00
  £689.00

Yeah I've already upgrade to an all aluminum extruder.

Out of curiosity, which one are you using?

Also, if you're using a standard putty knife on the bed: dont. Them edges be too sharp for the PEI to handle. I use something like this which saved my PEI from certain death a few times.

Silk Copper 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D PLA Printing Material Silky Like Shiny Metal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ihvaCbHW79QQB

Silk Copper 3D Printer Filament PLA 1.75 mm 1 KG (2.2 LBS) Spool 3D PLA Printing Material Silky Shine Shiny Metal CC3D Metallic PLA Like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e1mVCb9X70V7M

Hey guys,

You may have seen this post on /r/overwatch yesterday. I 3D printed this mask on my Monoprice Maker Select.

Used PLA, and basic settings in Cura (200/50 temp).

This is my recommended guide to finishing a 3D printed Prop for any one curious:

Rustoleum Filler Primer - Do 2 or 3 layers of this. Maybe more, you'll know if you need a layer or more. Do some sanding between layers.

I hate regular bondo, so I use Bondo Spot putty, this is what I used to fix everything else. Round out edges, add detail, and to smooth out. Lots and lots of sanding. I used several layers of Bondo spot putty, the trick is to lay it on thin, and do many layers. Don't get impatient and slather it on.

mask after one layer of primer & getting ready for paint

before visor & side view

CC3D has amazing copper and gold (don’t bother with the silver). Silk Copper PLA 3D Printer Filament 1.75 mm 1KG 2.2LBS Spool 3D Printing Material CC3D Shine Silky Shiny Metallic Metal Red Purple Copper PLA Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eRrBDbSCBP7H5

For reference, I'm using this kit, upgraded from the original melzi board.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CT4AM0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the one I used, hopefully its not too much more expensive but it was $4.70 for me.

There is also cleaning filament. It is safe to use at ABS and PLA temperatures. Just extrude the cleaning filament until it starts coming out clean. Then lower or raise the temperature to match the new plastic and extrude it until the cleaning filament is no longer being extruded. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVIYNFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HzGvybEZNY8K2

The Rosewill Model RFHD-15001 is exactly the same dehydrator as the PrintDry model on Matterhackers. with the exception of the badging and top components. You’ll have to cut out the tray floors yourself to get the filament to fit.

Any thoughts on if this would be okay to use? https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491874832&sr=8-1&keywords=ramps+kit

I don't want to get something that might go all sparky sparky poof poof

Curious your bondo workflow. Seems like you can lose a lot of detail . Have you considered using 2-3 coats of this Primer Filler.

Dry your filament this is what I use works well Rosewill Countertop Portable Electric Food Fruit Dehydrator Machine with Adjustable Thermostat, BPA-Free 5-Tray RHFD-15001 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018UR4XJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_q-T5Cb8M4WNG1

I've heard you can use filler primer for smaller cracks, and bondo for larger cracks/seams.

I would, of course, test how the PLA reacts to the primer, first, though. Wouldn't want to ruin a 20 hour print!

I swear by this filament. I run it through when doing filament changes, as well as nozzle changes. I also use it if I get a clog.

it's PLA - I'm using the Inland brand. I kicked it up to 215 because it says - Recommended Extrusion/Nozzle Temperature: 215°C - 230°C on the description.

1. borosilicate glass plate + silicone thermal pads to evenly distribute the heat. (cut pads in 2inch squares and place them in a grid. The glass plate will sit on top of the pads)
   
   
2. D4 extruder gear upgrade
   
   
3. 50mm radial blower fan for DIIICooler upgrade
   
   
4. 8mm or 5/16" threaded rods for Z-brace upgrade
   
   
5. Micro Swiss All-metal hotend
   

Micro Swiss MK10 All Metal Hotend Kit .4mm Nozzle WANHAO, FlashForge, Dremel Idea Builder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C3HEQZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Xj7Dzb5FTEP7R this is the one I bought from amazon

Link to the good bits. It's not done. I'm just not sober enough to handle a heat gun. Used a hair dryer and a "Blade" to see her face.

WeldOn 16 in the tube. I use it in my office and no odors.

SCIGRIP 16 10315 Acrylic Cement, Low-VOC, Medium bodied, 5 Ounce Tube, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HNFLMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvZUCb8SJ1R99

I've had zero issues with mine, and do not use ANY lubrication... I over tightened my bearings which caused a lot of noise, so when I went to replace them with the drylins, I also completely cleaned the rods they went onto, so that may be why I am not having issues. Been running them for about two months now. These are the ones I ordered, if it matters

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249279-Automotive-11-Ounce-Filler/dp/B003CT4AM0

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249279-Automotive-11-Ounce-Filler/dp/B003CT4AM0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527609462&sr=8-5&keywords=filler+primer

I usually dont have much to fill, just need to hide layer lines if I choose too. I use a filler primer, usually rust-oleum

Edit: thats not the exact one, just first result on amazon

This is what I use. Unbreakable seams.

https://www.amazon.com/SCIGRIP-10315-Acrylic-Cement-Low-VOC/dp/B003HNFLMY

I got this from amazon, which I have seen somewhere here in /r/3dprinting recomended

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003QZ6PZ0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Filament and cleaner.

Get some cleaning filament.

https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487997525&sr=8-1&keywords=ramps+1.4

I don't know if you need any of those additional parts, but this also has Prime shipping, so you don't need to wait a month for aliexpress shipping.

[I think it might be more than 330 euros I don’t know the conversion](FlashForge 3D Printers, New Model: Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016R9E7J2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1li.AbYGZ918M)

buy this one instead for 1/3 the price.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018UR4XJI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is this the same one? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018UR4XJI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_diQ7CbCZWKT3G

What modifications were required?

I wonder how hacking together one of these and a plastic storage bin would work to dry multiple spools at once...

Which one did you buy this one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01C3HEQZC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526789946&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=micro+swiss+mk10+all+metal+hotend+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=31PL9jMit-L&ref=plSrch

I am using the Micro Swiss mk10... https://www.amazon.com/Hotend-Nozzle-WANHAO-FlashForge-Builder/dp/B01C3HEQZC

I'm going to be getting a glass plate and PEI sheet for mine, since the thin aluminum build plate can warp from heat.

Here you go. Just buy the appropriate size for your printer!

https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printing-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484800825&sr=8-1&keywords=pei+sheet

was it this material?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KGDTPQK/

Silk Copper PLA 3D Printer Filament 1.75 mm 1KG 2.2LBS Spool 3D Printing Material CC3D Shine Silky Shiny Metallic Metal Red Purple Copper PLA Filament https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761PMW3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XCwBDbXV4S60K

this one - not affiliate link

Filament used: Silk Copper PLA, Tool temp: 197, Bed: 60

Printer: Ender 3, 30% cubic infill, 2mm walls

https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-3D-Printer-Source/dp/B07D218NX3

It was. All were claimed.

Official Creality 3D Ender 3 Printer Fully Open Source https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D218NX3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D3jaCb01W6WE7

i see a lot of people say the same thing about Ender 3. now i see a lot of copycats of that model.

but this must be a legit one right? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D218NX3/

• Heat gun for melting off any stringing post print
  
• Small spatulas for those hard to remove prints
  
• These sanding tools on Thingiverse for sanding rough surfaces and cleaning up support contact areas