(Part 3) Best products from r/4Runner

AJT DESIGN Injection Fob Case... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BK6DB62?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here’s a link if it helps this is for the 5th gen but if u look in the similar products below you can find the one for your specifications good luck dude hope it comes out nice

Any double din should will work. Check out Crutchfield, they’ll be able to recommend a new head unit based on what you’re looking for, as well as harnesses and mounting kits needed for whatever head unit you choose. Personally I prefer this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016ADOPEC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oN9YzbVW6MBE8
Crutchfield doesn’t offer it I don’t think, but from the ones I’ve seen installed it looks the best (other than the Urban Runner trim, but good luck finding that one).

AlumiSeal is also a real easy, low risk additive you can put in the radiator. Worth the $5.

It does sound like a hose, but I recommend A.S. As a quick easy thing to try for small leaks. It's real safe and a good treatment for the radiator

http://www.amazon.com/AlumAseal-ASBPI12-Radiator-Powder-Blister/dp/B000FW61M4

This was a year ago and I’ve done a few upgrades since then. This is a write-up with some links for those interested in it. Hopefully this wall of info might be useful to someone looking to do what I’ve done. It is a headache and a half along with hours of time just trying to find straightforward info for modding these trucks.

Full specs: 2018 TRD ORP w/ KDSS. Bilstein 6112 2.4” lift (5/5 clip settings for KDSS) & 5160 rear shocks. Eibach ProLift rear springs 1”(note: the KDSS models sit about a .5”-1” lower up front in stock.) Super bump kit. OME rear Right 10mm trim packer for lean correction. 275/70/17 KO2 tires. Stock OR Rims. JBA high caster UCAs. Tyger Auto TG-AM2T20148 side steps (for the little wife, to mitigate the tires flinging rocks at the paint and they also help with parking lot door dings)


Lights: The LEDs are Nineo Gen2 for H11 and 9005. It was around $100 total from amazon. They are identical to the Supernova v.4. So if you’re thinking of those, save your money with these.

The DRLs do work fine, believe it or not, and the flicker when in DRL mode is BARELY noticeable and looks kinda cool imo, it’s $50 vs $180 for xenon depots, and I don’t think XDs are $130 better imo. They also do dim. I’ll post more pics and a video of the flicker later when I get the headlights adjusted. If you still can’t stand the flicker the XD LEDs with the DRL driver is the way to go or you can just shut off the DRL mode completely without messing with other lighting functions, this is also a warranty safe and non-permanent solution as you can just push the wire back in if you decide to change your mind. (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5-lFBDFjs4VOUtFN2RETDJPd0E/view)

Xenon Depot 9005 LED kit w/ DRL module: https://www.xenondepot.com/9005-Xtreme-LED-kit-pro-p/xt-led-9005-pro.htm

Nineo GEN2 9005: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JCSRS7H/

Katana H11(the Nineo looks sold out, but these are the other identical brand): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078W5WJZ2/

Fog Lights, Yellow LED, installing today along with a yellow film, will post pics later: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F9S49GP/

Lamin-x Yellow Film: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P2EZFI/



Rubbing, death wobble and suspension: The only rubbing I have is on the front mudflaps at full lock, might modify or just remove flaps completely. No rub on UCAs or body mount.

For grease I use Valvoline VV615, if you go JBA, I highly recommend this 90 degree grease adapter. No mess and super easy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G76OMA/

Or you could replace the straight zerk fittings with 45-90 degree zerk fittings.

The rear right OME trim packer that corrected the lean also fixed the steering wheel death wobble some may experience after a lift. So for this particular case I’ll attribute it to a suspension geometry problem. If you still experience the wobble after lean correction there is a bushing to replace the spider bearing in the front left differential, made by ECGS. it’s about $170 for the full install kit with a new cv axle seal. I highly recommend either of these if you’re are finding yourself getting your wheels balanced way more than you should be.

OME 10mm Trim Packer: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25490059-rear-trim-packer-for-2003-4runner-2007-fj-cruiser-150pr10.html

ECGS bushing kit: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html

Bilstein 6112 Front Assembly with standard coilovers: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-26910006-bilstein-6112-height-adjustable-front-strut-set-for-2010-4runner-47-259768-or-47-281202.html

Bilstein 5160 rear shocks with oil reservoir: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25489698-bilstein-5160-remote-reservoir-rear-shock-set-for-2003-4runner-2007-fj-cruiser-25-227611-x2.html

JBA STD High Caster UCAs: https://jbaoffroad.com/jba-std-high-caster-upper-a-arms-for-toyota-tacoma-05-plus-4runner-03-plus-fj-cruisers-07-plus.html

Super Bump Kit: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25490332-wheelers-front-superbump-bumpstop-set-for-2005-tacoma-2003-4runner-2007-fj-cruiser-2007-tundra-01superbumpkit.html


DIY lift info that helped me:

If you want to lift your KDSS 5th gen 4Runner: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/154230-how-lift-installation-kdss-equipped-vehicles.html

How to install new UCAs on your 4Runner: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/237425-4th-5th-gen-upper-control-arm-uca-install-write-up.html


Information pit #1: Toyota-4Runner.org

Information pit #2: 4runners.com

Other useful sites: tacomaworld.com, tacomaforum.com, tundratalk.net

trail4runner.com(review site, decent tutorials)

I've got this
Only spent one night on it so far but for the price it was great. It fit perfectly with the rear seat bottom removed.

I did 5100s all around with stock springs on my 04. Fronts set at the top setting and I added these $40 Daystar 1.5" spacers in the rear. Sure they say they are for a FJ but we all know the springs are the same size. Everything is pretty level and I actually enjoy the soft ride. Im sure my cornering would be better with different springs but im not attempting to win any races.

Best Choice Products 4" Folding Portable Mattress Full https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01INZBCJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0rDZzbBM7KEDZ
I got the full size. I also recommend the camper van sheets from target to make your car look super fancy. It makes everything easy to keep clean.

Edit- more info

I use an iCarsoft e660 and it’s pretty user friendly.
https://www.amazon.com/iCarsoft-E660-ABS-Diagnostic-Tool/dp/B07L62JD57

When googling the error code, include the exact year of your truck since there are differences in the 4WD depending on year and trim packages. Here’s an awesome page that lists the changes/differences between years of 3rd gens.

https://www.4runners.com/threads/3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.630/

Also, before buying a scan tool if you’re on a budget, if you can find an auto-zone or O’Rielys autoparts, (anything like pep boys) ask to use their scan tool (both o’rielys in my town have the same obd2 scanner with abs function) to find out what code you have. Mine would just ask to hold onto my ID while I used it in their parking lot until they started recognizing me. Haha

A really common ABS code seems to be wheel speed sensors gunked up with 80/90 from failing real axle seal(s). If the inside of a rear tire looks wet, there’s a very good chance that is your problem, as it was for me.

Hope this helps!

Hi there! I went with rhino rack vortex aero bars/legs, a Yakima load warrior with extension and a Curt roof bag. It has solid reviews on Amazon and waterproof with thick layering. I didn't like the straps that came with some I added some simple master lock straps as well. It's held up really well and have driven through rain off and on throughout the trip with no leaks!

CURT 18221 Extended Roof Rack Cargo Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ9N014/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3ndPzbFQZSH2D

We haven't camped out of the back quite yet since it's loaded with everything we got! But would love tips to the best mattresses etc that would fit the back since that will be for round 2 excursions -

You can get a backup camera, and even sensors, installed. These are usually wired to the front, and are available on amazon for price comparison.

On the front, you have have to have a display for the camera. If you have one already, this will save you a lot of expense. The display can either be the screen on a double DIN headunit (usually expensive and laggy. Play with them in the store) or a single DIN headhunt with a screen that motors out (might be a pain to use). Installing this usually requires an adapter and a kit; you can do it at home if handy, but hooking up the reverse camera too might be a big project.

You could also use a separate, dedicated display (the easiest to install but might be ugly) or a rearview mirror replacement (might be hard to see due to low quality or glare).

Personally I think your best option is a Double DIN unit professionally installed (expensive and most people like it) or a [rearview camera replacement] (https://www.amazon.com/AUTO-VOX-Inputs-Adjusting-Brightness-Hyundai/dp/B00J863EI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466644744&sr=8-1&keywords=rear+view+camera+mirror) (not expensive, subtle).

Man, I wish my 1993 was this mint. If you live in the rust belt, make sure you clean the gunk out of the fenders, bumpers, and frame! As well, you can easily fix your rear coil spring sag with a set of cheap Moog CC255 springs. Trust me, it's worth it.

This got recommended to me by several people. It has good reviews and several Toyota forums seemed to like it. I found it locally pretty easy.

Mothers 06524 VLR VinylLeatherRubber Care, 24 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004N63S9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gtwACbXRDEC2N

Hey,

Here are the links to what I bought:

Lights:
https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-005750991-Black-Magic-Driving/dp/B00318JTCS/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1511108495&sr=1-1&keywords=hella+black+magic+driving+lights

Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EOMQLKC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I first wired the Hella wiring harness to the battery and ground. Next, I drilled holes for the lights, but you need to be careful and look on the inside of the bumper first. There is this structural webbing sorta stuff, so you need to drill between the struts. They are the same on both sides, so its easy to get the lights symmetrical. MAKE SURE THE HOOD CAN OPEN. I almost screwed this up

Next, I mounted the lights and connected the leads. I soldered the grounds together and connected them to the screw that holds the oil cooler on.

Run the yellow wire through the large grommet behind the battery. The switch i had linked is a direct replacement for all the blank switches and it looks AWESOME. If you use that grommet, you will be right next to the switch panel to the left of the steering wheel.

I connected both the green and yellow wires from the switch to a positive end of a Wal-Mart fuse tap. I tapped into the rear windshield washer, so the lights are never on when the car is off. Since i put both the relay lead and switch light lead in the same place, the switch light is always on and doesn't come on with the other dash lights. (it still turns off when the car is off).

I bought AuxBeam head lights and am pretty happy with them. Are there better lights avail? yes. Are these better than stock halogens. hell yes. NOTE: You don't need to drill through the dust cap for these. They're simple plug and play.

Auxbeam headlights

Auxbeam fog lights

yeah I have the link to it, an entire suspension kit would be about a grand, but i've never seen a leveling kit that expensive

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZWOCZ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The blackout was done by using plasti-dip. I did the roof rails and end caps, all the emblems, and the wheels. Overall it turned out great and was probably about a 30-40 dollar project, very cost effective!

I got this one from Amazon!
Steel Motorcycle Scooter Dirtbike Carrier Hauler Hitch Mount Rack Ramp Anti Tilt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018SCMIR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_zX8KIxtXDNpe1

Been pretty happy with it although I had to loosen and re tighten it a few times to make it straight. If you over tighten the bolt the metal will cave a bit but overall it's been super sturdy. The anti tilt thing it comes with is trash though. I bought an after market pin and it still has some movement but wasn't terrible.

Edit: The capacity is rated for 500 lbs for the carrier but it's all about the tongue weight of the hitch. My KDX is only like 250-300 lbs altogether but I can sit on the bike with it on the the rack just fine to tighten the straps down!

I ordered some LED light strips from Amazon. They are 12 volt and can be cut to any length. The original post showing this mod used two per side, but I thought that was overkill so I only used on per side. I'll use the other two elsewhere, like under the hood or for second row area. Here is the link to the write-up for the modification. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/80913-cargo-area-led-light-mod.html

TLDR: I ordered these for only $12 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YXBEHQK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then fished wire through to the tailgate light switch. Access the back of it to solder wires onto the terminals of the switch. Now these turn on just when I open the tailgate or switch the light to the "On" position. LOVE this setup!

These are what I installed.
Other seat heaters
I've put them in multiple vehicles and they work great. And you can do an 'add a circuit' fuse for both of them to a switched circuit so they turn off/on with your vehicle. I was lucky on my runner to put Wet Okoles on at the same time so I didn't have to take the original cover off, but I believe the 4th gen doesn't use hog rings... so it should be held on with plastic clips. If you'd consider yourself a handy person, it is definitely do-able. I live in the midwest so it helps keep off the initial chill of winter driving. My wife also loves them.