(Part 2) Best products from r/4x4

Much more than you think or feel unstable at. I still wouldn't want to put it past 30°, but that's just me.

At any rate, the angle finder helps a lot with your feelings on the matter and gets you experienced with the truck a little more.

You could also check out a simple clinometer for the truck like this one.

I would prefer something digital for me, but simple is good and a great option as well.

Hey, I'm hoping you can help me out! I bout this a while back
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Lights-Driving-Lighting-Warranty/dp/B00WE47FVM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486003550&sr=8-1&keywords=20+inch+light+bar
because it fit my dimensions good but the light is very lacking, I really want something with some distance!! Height is not a factor but it can only be about 24 inches long max and I really need it to mount like how that one done, not the side mounts. Budget is like 200 bucks but would like to spend less obviously, any ideas?

I can't recommend enough taking your rig out with those that know how to do it. You will learn so so much: both how to do thing and, well how not to do things.

I learned by listening to people tell me how to run trails, then I would watch them go first. If they did what they said and succeeded, I kept that person close to me. If they did what they said and constantly failed, I learned what not to do from them.

When you get your winch, take your truck out to a parking lot after the stores close and practice. Don't let your first time winching be out on a trail. I pulled out the whole length of my rope and winched my rig the full distance for a few reasons.

1. It allowed my rope to stretch, then relax on the roll.
   
2. It allowed me to see how it would re-spool and see how fast/slow it worked.
   
3. It showed me how to use my blocks and tackles and all the features of the winch and Jeep. Basically I practiced before I went wheeling.
   
   I started with a 1998 Jeep Tj Sport. It was stock height, 4x4, but unlocked with only 33" MT's, a 18k winch, straps, hooks and a few snatch blocks. It was the 4cyl 5sp and I never lifted it or did anything more than that. I learned so much, I would regularly get invited to 3 and 4 diamond trails: trails I had no business being on with that rig, but my attitude, willingness to listen (even when I knew better) and attention to what the rigs ahead of me were doing, then adjusted my bath to compensate for my shortcomings. I got stuck a lot, but not enough to frustrate the others. My basic plan was always to stay on top of things or bypass ruts if I know it was a guarantee to get stuck. The others respected me for not being stupid and going where I knew I would not succeed. Never did anyone dog on me for bypassing an obstacle.
   
   But I learned my rig and my own problem solving limitations for trails and "did the math" in my head before it was my turn. As I upgraded I was infinitely better than those that just tossed lots of money at a rig thinking as long as they had the equipment, they couldn't fail.
   
   Plus it was so incredibly awesome to pass a lifted rig that was stuck because he tried to just go for it and I took the slower, technical route. I was as good as the others, but with a smaller rig. The running joke in my club was if you get stuck, they would sent the stoker to get them. No one wanted that embarrassment.
   
   Be straight up on a trail with the others and a good wheeler will be ecstatic to help show you everything they know. I've rarely, like one in a hundred seen a good wheeler not want to help out someone that wants to be better.
   
   Your logging roads sound like ours. Some are maintained and some are not. Sounds like a winch will be your friend.
   
   If you get a winch, consider removing the steel cable with a synthetic rope That metal cable will twist and kink within the first few times you use it and will frustrate you. Other than that, just see if it has a wireless remote, or at least a cabled remote. Standing next to a winch wile operating it is dangerous. Also anything weighted that will wrap around the middle of the line will do, so nothing fancy there.
   
   If a cable lets go, I've seen cables destroy grills and bend Jeep windshield frames before. Ive never seen one hit a person, and I pray I never do.
   
   An ounce of safety and all.
   
   But most importantly, never get in a hurry out there. Thats when mistakes are made and being in the woods with a medical emergency isn't a good thing.
   
   Take that thing out and camp as much as you can. You can learn a ton alone also. You don't need a group, but its fun to have one.

That's another good thing about these, they've been used by quite a few countries around the world, so there is quite a bit of information as well as manuals in English.

You can get them directly from Puch, as well as most of the importers offer them, like Pinzgauer.com and/or Expedition Imports. That said, you may want to check the forums to see if they have some free versions somewhere, since the importers tend to charge quite a bit for them.

Pinzgauers won't show up in most automotive search engines. The basic items aren't too exotic, with Sparkplugs, Fuel Filter, Oil Filter and Air Filter readily available.
Here is a link to a pretty nice parts-interchangeability list.

Overall, parts are not too bad, with some being rather expensive. That said, this has been the case with most of the older cars i've owned, with some parts being 5-10 bucks and others simply costing hundreds of dollars for no apparent reason. Old vehicles tend to do that to ya :P.

I bought those lights and they really had not much output. The lights I got after those were these: http://www.amazon.com/Tuff-LED-Lights-Square-Polaris/dp/B009ES619S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1373816310&sr=8-3&keywords=tuff+led+lights and they were really bright. But If you want a beam, these are really the best lights to get: http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-5750941-12-Volt-55-Watt-Halogen/dp/B001TWD5GY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1373816353&sr=1-1&keywords=hella+500ff honestly, cheap lights like those navigators will NOT be worth it. These LED's or Hella's will be. I enjoy my hellas and those LED's enough that I will have 4 of the LED's and 4 of The Hellas just for night offroad use.

It's not that big of a deal.. BUT, I don't know how much wiring experience you have..

Going on the assumption that it's a 300 watt LED bar... That's 25 amps or less of draw.

You need big enough wire to handle the current draw (25 amp+) and a fuse or circuit breaker and a relay. The 300 watt light will pull 25 amps at 12v so using 30 amp relay/fuse/breaker should be enough...

You will also need a switch BUT the switch is only going to be used to power on the relay and the relay will then "switch" the high current from the battery to the lights.

In simplest terms, you can wire it this way....

• Get a 40 amp Relay (30 amp should work too, but I like the 40 amp relay better). You can get them with a wire harness so you don't have to run the wires right "to" the relay. 40 amp relay / Relay harness
  
• 30 amp fuse/breaker near the battery. That wire runs through the fuse to pin 30 on the relay and this will be the source power line for the lights. Here is a 30 amp breaker you can find at your local auto parts store.. It is self resetting. [self resetting circuit breaker] (http://www.amazon.com/Camco-65224-Straight-Circuit-Automatic/dp/B002N59LCS)
  
• Pin 87 on the relay is the output of that power line above and you run it to the red wire on the LED bar (Don't forget to run the black wire on the LED to vehicle ground)
  
• pin 85 on the relay is run to ground on the vehicle.
  
• Pin 86 on the relay is the "trigger" wire for the relay. This wire is what will turn on the light when it gets power.
  
  The Easiest way to do this is tap into the fuse box (under the dash) and pull 12v from something that is "switched power". That means it has power when the key is on. Now, run that tapped wire to a switch and from the switch to the Pin 86.
  
  
  With that simple wiring above, when the key is in the on position, you have power going to the switch, when you flip the light switch the energizes the relay which takes the power from the battery and send it on the the light...
  
  Now, you need to use big enough wire. I'm going to assume you are going to need to run less than 10 feet of wire for the high power (the one on the big fuse). If so, 12 gauge will be fine. You can use 14 or even 16 gauge for the "switch" wire and the ground to the relay to save some money..
  
  hopefully all that made sense.. If you want, we can make the "switch" wiring fancier so you can have lights with the switch and/or with the high beams..

These are some shitty ones I took while working on it. A bit of it has been revised.

http://imgur.com/a/ewNoK

Isolator link

Link to part references on alternator:http://www.gmt400.com/threads/96-98-vortec-alternator-upgrade-ad244.232/

I actually needed a new alternator anyway, so I tossed it in a week before I put in the second battery.

I had most everything lying around as spare parts from other projects except the isolator, and the batteries were more or less about 75%-85% off list price because the person I bought them from didn't know how to charge them properly (Thank you, Craigslist). I wouldn't personally recommend Optima's, as I've heard that they're quality has tanked pretty hard in recent years since moving to Mexico for production. Everyone has their favorite brand, though, and to be fair they've treated me extremely well while I've had them. The wire I had laying around was I think 2gauge, (although I think factory wiring for GMT400s is 4 or 6).

DISCLAIMER: IF YOU GET SHOCKED, ELECTROCUTED, SET FIRE TO, OR ATTACKED BY SQUIRRELS NOT MY FAULT

REMEMBER TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST

The first thought I had was of where to put the isolator, which I decided to mount directly to the fender underneath the ECM. So I pried up the ECM:http://imgur.com/Eyb9V0D

The next thing I did was put the isolator in the spot and check the fit by reinstalling the ECM. http://imgur.com/H4aWyCD

After making sure it mounted up flush and didn't have any issues, I used the bracket included with the isolator to drill the mounting holes:http://imgur.com/WNOTapa I'm not sure of your climate, but I spray painted over the bare metal after I had the holes drilled just to make sure (standard black primer).

Next I don't have a picture of, but I actually connected all wiring to the isolator including the fuses. This was just down to being a lazy sod, as it's easier to wire things up while they're out of the space for the ECM bracket than inside. A friend of mine who deals with electricity way more than I do (and has been shocked less than I have, therefore meaning he's probably better at it) said to use two fuses on each side of the isolator to be on the safe side. So the diagram would look like:

Wire(To battery)----Fuse----Wire----Isolator---wire----fuse---wire(to vehicle electrical/AUX center): http://imgur.com/raDOSxu

The small wire on the bottom is the ground for the switch, the wire leading off to the left is of course the hot wire for the secondary battery, and the wire that runs to the right is for connecting to the fuse/relay/AUX center under the hood. With fuse holder in place:http://imgur.com/bunOUp2 Note that I'd go with a better fuse holder, but this is what I had laying around.


Next up is bolting everything down. For the fuse holders I just used the screws that came with, they were self taping so no need to drill the holes. The bolts in the picture I actually just tossed in because again, I had them on hand. I've since replaced them with some auto bolts and locknuts, and then of course spray painted black on the underside to help prevent rust or corrosion. Also again I put the bolts pointing the wrong direction, while the ones I've used now have them mounted heads down so they don't ever have a chance of catching anything (like my hands while I'm working on the damn thing).

Next up is where to actually put the cable to the Fuse/Relay/AUX block. This is something a TON of people get wrong on these trucks. Here's the best way to put it:https://imgur.com/dCiQa8f That lower stud actually is where the other battery cable mounts to the truck as well (the line that runs across the radiator cowl dips, ducks, dodges, and terminates there). The two posts on top are actually for for easier tapping into the electrical system (things like plows, trailer brakes, etc can be run from here). EDIT: DESPITE THE PICTURE, THE PASSENGER SIDE BATTERY AND THE SECONDARY BATTERY MOUNT ON THE SAME STUD. They should both mount on that side stud that 'points' to the fender of the truck. The top posts are just for AUX cables for accessories.

The final part of all of this is wiring the isolator correctly. The one I used and posted the link to has four posts: Two large posts (for to/from the battery) and two small. One small post is for a ground wire. The other one is to actually activate the isolator. You can do this either with a manual switch, or you can do what I did and run it to a port that is only hot when the truck is turned to the ON or START position of the key.

From the isolator: http://imgur.com/rxAjYJX

And where I ran it inside the cab: http://imgur.com/1iYnEf6
The wire actually starts out as red but ends as white (because that's the only fucking connector I had on hand that would actually fit that tiny ass little post in that damn box). You're on your own finding your way through the firewall, I already had a spot open because of part of a stereo/backup camera install. Use a rubber grommet at least, and if you do have to drill a hole be extra careful of where you put it.

Connect the batteries, then insert the fuses and get your multimeter. Hold your multimeter prongs to the primary battery, then have your handy dandy wife, 4 year old, or well trained dog flip the switch for your headlights. The voltage should drop slightly. Have them turn off the lights (after the second time yelling "Okay, turn it off"), then move to the secondary battery. Put your multimeter prongs on the terminals, then tell them to turn on the lights. If wired correctly there should be NO DROP in voltage. Tell them to turn the lights off (again, on the second time going "Okay, turn off the lights!"). Have them crank the truck and check your voltage on your primary battery; it should be higher now that the truck is cranked and the alternator is running. Then move to the secondary battery and check the voltage there. If you wired it correctly, then the isolator will have switched to the "ON" position and it will also have a higher voltage than your first test. This means that the alternator is maintaining the charge on both batteries when the key is in the ON or START position on the column. Yell for your helper to turn off the truck ("Seriously need to have their hearing checked"), and tidy up.

If I had to Do It Again (and I will after a few more upgrades):
I'd use a better fuse holder, something sturdier. It isn't that the one I have doesn't work, just that I know it isn't super sturdy and that bothers the living piss out of me. Now that I think of it, waterproofing wouldn't hurt. I'd also look into premade rubber caps for the terminals rather than what I have currently, which is electrical tape and painted on rubber. Do NOT over torque the bolts on the isolator, as they can very easily be stripped.

The benefits of dual batteries is probably already known to you, but just to reiterate: If you're adding a winch, use it while the vehicle is cranked and running. If you aren't going to be running, then make sure you get a battery that can deep cycle (manufactures make some that are decent at both starting and deep cycling, but not masters of either). Also make sure you don't wire your accessories to separate batteries, or you'll run the risk of running both down at the same time despite isolators and not being able to be helped because damnit that shit was hilarious and we were laughing to hard to get the jump cables.

Edit: Also check out GMT400.com, it has a bit of information on our trucks. As per the norm with the Internet in general and forums in particular some of it is over pandering bullshit and some of it is solid information.

http://www.amazon.com/Ultima-Waterless-Wash-Plus-Concentrate/dp/B00D7LTNW0

This stuff is awesome. Obviously use your best judgement, if there is too much dirt and grime on the car it is a lot easier to swirl that around. Very good and efficient for quick touch ups, especially here in SoCal trying to conserve water.

It really depends on your rig. I have a short bed short cap pickup truck. So when I get out I can basically reach into the rear of the bed of my truck. On both sides strapped in the corner I have one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002RY6IBM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1415837477&sr=8-5&pi=SL75

I don't expect you to have 10lbs. I got these for free from my FD and they are a bit pricy. However please use Dry Chem/Dry Powder. Dry powder being the best as it works well on vehicle fires that contain combustible metals. Just please for gods sake do not carry water cans. Use at least Dry Chem. Water reacts very explosively with combustible metals.

Here is an example:
http://youtu.be/HcBXRj1gXFw

Tire plugs and an air compressor. This is what I carry for plugs. It's probably overkill, but it works great. This is the air compressor I use. You can find it for cheaper, but it keeps up with $200+ compressors and there are a ton of mods you can do to improve them if you want.

I bought a Tuff Country Leveling Kit off Amazon and installed it. It gave me almost 3 extra inches on the front. I put Spidertrax Wheel Spacers on all 4 wheels. I had to cut away a good amount of plastic on the front to get the tires to not rub, but it's easy enough.

The odometer is off by about 10% now, as is the speedometer. The dealer told me there's no way to calibrate it. Compensating for that, I see pretty much exactly the same mileage, though I do have the 6-speed manual. Slightly harder to get going, but as long as you keep it in the right gear it's all good.

I never thought of using dynamat before..... I quickly googled around for cheap alternatives because my recollection of that stuff from my super cool high school days with 2 15's in the trunk of my sweet Saturn was that it is expensive. I came up with this looks promising, I could do the transmission tunnel and bed line it.

Allow me to give you some advice. I too have a Badland bumper but really this is advice for any steel bumper that comes raw. Apply POR-15 as a base and then POR-15 top coat per their exact instructions. A normal rattle can job is not going to hold up to the elements. I am having to strip the rattle can job I did because it didn't hold up and has caused numerous rust spots. You can find both products here:

This kit will give you everything you need to apply the base of POR-15

http://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45009-Gloss-Black-Starter/dp/B00J594B5C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420640042&sr=8-2&keywords=por-15

This is the top coat. It also comes in a gloss variety if you prefer.

http://www.amazon.com/POR-15-45918-Chassis-Black-Coat/dp/B00MBFOHEW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1420640098&sr=8-2&keywords=por-15+top+coat

This combination can not be beat for its tough as nails finish and rust prevention all in one. Enjoy your bumper!

Lol Other peoples vehicles are Generally more difficult. Most modern cars/SUVs are unibody, They have often have one or even zero tow points. They really can't be snatched because they don't have frames. They will come apart like a pop can. You are very likely to screw up their car. Unibody cars are just not designed to experience the kind of lateral forces snatching requires

There are three practical things you can use to recover unibody vehicles in general

1. max tracks. If they can inch forward bit by bit. ( safest and best option.) you can buy a 100 set, they work fine for me and my Xterra.
   
2. Good old fashion bottle jack..( the first and best piece of recovery gear)
   
3. Inflatable air jack https://www.amazon.com/Mophorn-Jack-Exhaust-Inflatable-Off-Road/dp/B07C8B8XXG/ref=asc_df_B07C8B8XXG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312065537890&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9795011857780736403&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=200803&hvtargid=pla-569205907586&psc=1
   
4. Roll Tracks. These are pretty much only useful for helping lighter, lower power vehicles get off of sand, which happens to be your situation. They really excel in that particular scenario. I have seen someone drive a lumina over a dune with these. https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Heavy-Duty-Rubberized-Emergency-Recovery/dp/B07NF7JTRG/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=sand+tracks&qid=1555225120&s=automotive&sr=1-11They are more useful than carpet scraps, but less so than max tracks. They are also like 30 bucks...
   
   ​
   
   The air jacks with an air compressor takes a bit, but its highly effective and can lift almost any uni body vehicle. I think exhaust powered is kinda bullshit, but its also works. You can use all of the above things together.
   
   ​
   
   Pulling on other peoples normal road cars is very likely to end bad for you. If you can help them get a little traction under the front wheels, you can push them with your bumper if you need to.
   
   Just remember your Jeep is like 50% war machine , 50% truck. Most Modern vehicles are 50% lawn mower and 50% trash can. The War Machine is capable of destroying the Trash can almost instantly with far less force than you think.

Non-mobile: this one.

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Here is the desktop version of your link