(Part 2) Best products from r/AlienwareAlpha

As far as controllers go I think most people would be better off buying one of these three adapters:

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Smash-GameCube-Adapter-Wii-U/dp/B00L3LQ1FI

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SA5IJIM/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687542&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00L3LQ1FI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1DX7SZQ4P8M8EKATZTM7

http://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-GameCube-Controller-Adapter-nintendo-u/dp/B00RSXRLUE/ref=pd_bxgy_vg_text_y

and real Nintendo branded Gamecube controllers like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Edition-GameCube-Controller-Wii-U/dp/B00L3LQ4B4/ref=pd_bxgy_vg_img_y
or
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017KIBAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The reason I recommend this is because the latest development builds of Dolphin have native controller support built in. This means you can just setup the adapter to work with Dolphin and then plug in your Gamecube controllers and you're ready to go with no additional setup. The controllers auto calibrate just like on a real console and you can even unplug controllers and plug them back in during gameplay and everything will still work. It's works really awesome.

I started with an i3 alpha and put in an i5-4590T. It runs great, but I really cant say if games will run better. I got a base model Alpha for pretty cheap and installed 16gig ram, SSD, and new processor the day I got it. I use my Alpha mostly for work and don't really game on it that much. I just really like the small form factor.

Here is the processor used on eBay. I bought it used also. I don't think you can find this one new.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-SR1S6-Core-i5-4590T-2-0GHz-6M-L3-Cache-LGA1150-Haswell-GT2-CPU-/191903617137?hash=item2cae58d071:g:EikAAOSwc1FXawq7

This i5-4590s should perform about the same in the Alpha and is new on Amazon. I believe it actually gets downclocked in the Alpha to perform about the same as the t version.
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i5-4590S-BX80646I54590S-Processor-Cache/dp/B00J6F5LHM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467149364&sr=8-2&keywords=i5+4590t

Haven't used it but I've been basing my opinion based off videos on youtube
like this one for example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKuO9M0WuMg

Plus I read A LOT of reviews on steam and the general consensus that I got was that it is great for anything other than FPS, unless you want that controller feel
Also, a lot of the reviews talk about how they break fairly easily and I'm not the best at holding my temper during PVP games

It is on sale for 35$ right now and that's couple dollars more for a brand new joystick so maybe you'll convince somebody else looking at this post but not me

I am really feeling (amazon.com/Extreme-3D-Pro-Joystick-Windows/dp/B00009OY9U/) + a mouse would be optimal for me if I knew it was going to work

If voltage and the tip connector are the same it will work, output equals Volts Amps, stock is 19.5 9.23 = 180w, thus the 330w is 19.5 * 16.9. Voltage is the frequency and must match, amps is the amount of power capable of being delivered, that is fine to exceed.

Since it sounds like it only happens after extended gaming, and summer is coming to an end, the problem may resolve itself with cooling ambient temperatures. Make sure the power supply is in a ventilated area and not on something that will reflect the heat back like carpet (prop it up if possible).

I used to have an Asus laptop that would have the same problem back in the day, I actually ended up using a Heatshift laptop pad under it to increase the heatsinking and that worked out for me. Looks like Amazon only has them in pink (lol) right now but it's pretty cheap: https://www.amazon.com/ThermaPAK-Laptop-Cooling-Heatshift-Pad/dp/B002VGQMJE

Works by melting a salt that is a solid at room temp, the phase change absorbs the heat. It will resolidify at room temp or you can throw it in the freezer for 10 min during marathon sessions once all the salt has melted. I just put the pad on the ground with the power supply sitting on top of it

I have kind of an interesting setup for my alpha. I use spdif to my Vizio sound bar (which is sitting under my monitors) for everyday use.

I have Sony MDRXB950BT Bluetooth headphones I use when i need headphones (extremely good battery life and no audiophile, but I think they sound great).

Then I have a headphone out from my monitor (alpha is connected through hdmi and my monitors (benq rl2460ht) happens to have headphone out) and I bought an extender so I can plug in normal headphones easily If my Bluetooth is dead/I'm lazy/etc. Took me a little while to figure it out, but this setup works great for me.

Or something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO

Yes on the RAM. I think Alienware charges $100 extra. If you were to do it yourself, it would run you (depending on region) $50-80. So that is easier to just let Dell do it.

As for the HDD, I believe fully upgraded they want close $200. Which is just nuts for a HDD, so ya, do that yourself.. (Keep in mind HDD will ONLY affect loading times, and will have almost 0 effect in gaming once everything is loaded)

Finally, to truly make this a couch experience, buy a lapdesk for your keyboard and mouse, and hook your Alpha up to your TV. Don't buy a monitor, just use your TV. As far as your 4K question, yes, that is totally overkill.

Hope this helps!

Lapdesk:

https://www.amazon.com/Student-LapDesk-Bamboo-Laptop-Notebook/dp/B01GF5IN84/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1473692254&sr=1-10&keywords=lapdesk+for+laptop+wood

I believe it is, but the alienware alpha will downclock your cpu so the PSU in it won't explode. Probably literally lol. I would look for CPUS with a T at the end of it because those are low energy cpus designed for laptops and/or things like this. I will try to find some links to some of these cpu's on newegg.

Edit: http://ark.intel.com/products/81209/Intel-Core-i3-4170T-Processor-3M-Cache-3_20-GHz
This isn't a store link, but shows what it is. Couldn't find it in Newegg, I would the Cpu from Ebay or Amazon. There is also an i5 Model and an i7 model. You can probably find the CPU alone, ill try to look for some.

Edit 2: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Core-i5-4670T-2-30-Processor/dp/B00DI6AS50/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464106637&sr=8-3&keywords=i5+4690t
This isn't the i3 model, but the i5. Also, I believe the S series will work too because they are energy efficient CPUS as well.

Windows 10 does a lot of backend stuff to make booting faster for everyone, but the real benefit was loading up Steam, Chrome, Afterburner, and Skype really quickly. For the HDD, I used this enclosure, since I needed extra USB ports anyways.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T2ODFCU/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1468583836&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ssd+enclosure

I put a majority of my Steam library on the HDD, but keep things that I play very often (like Overwatch and Hearthstone) and essential programs (like ShotCut and RawTherapee, and the Office Suite) on the SSD. Keeps it feeling snappy, and Steam manages multiple drives fairly well.

Since you asked for recommendation for a good backlit keyboard with the budget <$100, I can strongly recommend Cherry MX Brown / Gateron Brown Mechanical Keyboards as they are both good for gaming and daily use. Here are couple of good, proven mechanical keyboards:

• Corsair STRAFE ($90) - Link
  
• Corsair Gaming K70 LUX ($80) - Link
  
• CM Storm QuickFire Rapid ($85) - Link
  
  Or, you can go with some cheaper keyboards with Gateron Brown (Here is one that's only $40, but the rather unconventional layout might confuse you).
  
  /r/MechanicalKeyboards is a great resource on this subject, and I really suggest that you check them out.

Oh...classic me. I am horrible with links. I either reverse the syntax or forget to paste the link half the time. I've updated it. Yes, YPbPr is component. Honestly, Composite (yellow) isn't really meant high-res signals, at that point you have to down-scale if you want to do it properly. You can buy yet another converter to go from Component to Composite also at a $50 cost...but honestly if you'd rather jump from HDMI straight to composite (yellow), you can buy this converter and ignore the original one I linked you. This would be the cheaper way rather than buying 2 converter boxes. I've never used this one though, so you'd have to judge purely off of Amazon reviews in that case. It seems to have fairly positive reviews however.

Thanks. And it's just plug and play? 5.1 surround sound ready on the Alpha? And will it work with this one? External 5.1 USB 3D Audio Sound Card Adapter for PC Desktop Notebook Laptop https://www.amazon.com.mx/dp/B001MW92AE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-jPizbW4KAHVP

I have this/ it works well, pretty good sound quality too.

> https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Trident-001BUS-Intel-Pentiuml-Celeron/dp/B01N0VEAOD/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1484071900&sr=8-5&keywords=MSI+Trident+3

Oh wow thank you!

The Alpha has Bluetooth built in so yeah you can definitely use Bluetooth headphones. You can turn on Bluetooth right from the action center in Windows 10. I've had no issues with delayed audio or drops.

 

Jam Transit Wireless Headphones :
http://www.amazon.com/Transit-Wireless-Headphones-Black-HX-HP420BK/dp/B00L23XFNS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1462413080&sr=8-6&keywords=jam+transit+bluetooth

 

I have the Jam Transit and they have pretty solid bass and decent mids/highs for the low price range. I was surprised I liked them as much as I do. You can find them for a bit less if you look around.

Here is a barebones w/GPU but w/o CPU for $799:

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Trident-001BUS-Intel-Pentiuml-Celeron/dp/B01N0VEAOD/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1484071900&sr=8-5&keywords=MSI+Trident+3