Best products from r/AnetA8

You gotta clamp it down to the bed, or it'll move during printing. I use the smallest of binder clips on the corners and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0794VN392/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sf9jDbYPTHPDX

Also, I've tried most of the adhesion solutions out there and I've had the best luck with hairspray as an adhesive. Specifically Aqua Net hairspray. Or if you can't find that, some kind of super duper ultra level 10 Hold hairspray. I print PLA, PETG, and even polycarbonate and it works great. I get a nice, flat glossy finish on the bed side of the print.

Yes, the glass is super conductive to heat and I use the same heat temps that I would use if I printed straight to the bed. As a matter of fact I rarely go above 50C on any of the filaments I mentioned above with success. I credit the glass to distribute the heat more evenly across the surface compared to the hot spots /cool spots you'll get with the aluminum bed alone.

Now, one caveat of using glass is that you're adding more weight to the bed and at higher print speeds and with the Y axis jerking back and forth, you'll see imperfections in your print of you don't have the printer's frame good and tight. I don't have all those cool frame upgrades on mine like a lot of folks do because I aim more for finish quality than speed, so I rarely get above 65mm/s on any print on the Anet.
I have a larger CoreXY that I built that I can get up above 100mm/s with good results but I rarely run it that high either. My benefits from it are larger build area.

The only improvements I've made to the A8 aside from a better power supply and Mosfet for the heat bed for safety, is the glass bed, a Bowden extruder, belt tensioners and these little guys :

Base Attachment Anet A8 found on #Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2123364

Those base clamps produced the biggest improvement in my prints of anything I've done.(As far as frame stability is concerned)
I bought a cheap Ikea table and screwed the A8 down to it and now the whole thing is rock solid.
I get really nice stuff from my little A8 and I've had it 3 years now. I bought it when you could only get them from China, before they were available on Amazon.

If I had it to do over again the only thing i would change is probably the Bowden system. It's a bit of overkill for my needs since I'm not looking for more speed. But it is easier to load filament into than the stock extruder.

Please know these things I've suggested have helped me, but your mileage may vary depending on your printing needs. There are tons of opinions of what is best and what is not as far as upgrades.

I absolutely must recommend a PEI sheet for printing ABS. It's the best printing surface I've used for being able to print ABS without having issues with the print tending to pull off the surface. I was using glass which is great for PLA, but even with hairspray, I was having issues with small areas of ABS pulling up somewhat regularly. Because it's a stiff sheet, it's easier to apply than tape without worrying about air bubbles. I still recommend having a boro glass plate as it's good for ensuring your bed is perfectly flat. Links below.

PEI Sheet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVQJ7QK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_GC2lDb0FXF07W
Borosilicate Glass: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFOI2VS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_vD2lDb92XDS8T

Also, just FYI, if you plan on printing any part upgrades for your printer, especially if you plan on using cable chains, keep in mind that ABS prints pretty much require the use of an enclosure to keep the temperature stable and warm. PLA has a tendency of deforming when even only slightly warm and I had a number of issues when I first started using a cabinet as a result. You'll want to print your part upgrades in ABS so as to maintain rigidity in a warm enclosure. You can always start with PLA and later upgrade the parts to ABS, but keep this in mind if/when you move to filaments that require a warmer print environment.

And above all, upgrade your firmware to ensure you have some minimum safety features. I nearly had a fire early on with mine when my hotend thermal probe was accidentally pulled out during a print causing it to have a thermal runaway.

There are a few things to comment on here.

1. From the picture I'm not seeing an all metal hot end. I mean, this is what a micro swiss all metal hot end is supposed to look like and I'm not seeing that in the picture. If all you did was change out the throat (pictured here) for an all metal throat, then yeah, you're going to have BEAUCOUP problems. Heat creep is DEFINITELY going to be a problem in this setup as the fan in your current configuration is not going to be able to adequately keep the cool zone cool.
   
2. I upgraded to an E3D clone (this one in fact) and this is the setup I'm using (slightly modified with cable chain connector and extra bracing for the part cooling fan). With my experience you have to get rid of the 30mm fan that comes with the clone hot end and use a 40mm fan or you WILL have heat creep.
   
3. Also, "seasoning" the hot end helps as well. Reply back or Bing it for more information.
   
   The biggest thing is to make sure you actually HAVE a Micro Swiss all metal hot end and not just an all metal throat. There's a BIG difference there. The Micro Swiss all metal hot end and the E3D all metal hot end (including clones) have those fins to aid in cooling that you just can't achieve with an all metal throat alone. Plus, it's really not the best idea to be blowing hot air on the extruder motor like that in the first place (another design flaw with the Anet A8 original design). So yeah, check that out and make sure you didn't just switch out the throat and that's it. Also, be sure you have upgraded your firmware to Marlin and that you're not running the stock firmware that originally came on the Anet A8.

This is excellent information, thank you. It's been a bit overwhelming looking at all the mods out there which are a "definitely do this before you print anything or you'll burn your house down" and "this helps but can probably wait for now".

I've already soldered the wires to the heated bed and started installing a mosfet for the bed as well. (Sounds like one isn't really needed for the hot end?)


Do I need something like the 500w ATX PSU, or can I get away with something like this (recommended by the Punished Props Anet safety upgrade page)

Can you tell me more about that fix for the heater block with kapton tape? I saw it recommended that I switch to one of these? (recommended by the letsprint3d.net Anet safety mods page)

So far working with the Anet A8 has been an extreme lesson in patience. It's honestly a bad printer but if you're willing to spend time and a little money, you can make it decent. First up should be fire safety. Immediately upgrade to the latest version of Marlin and install a mosfet for at least the bed, if not both the bed and hot end.

I would also recommend ordering new bearings before assembling the printer. The ones it comes with are pure garbage and for $10 it's an easy purchase. Another thing that might be worth investing in immediately is better belts.

After it's assembled and you can print well enough print an X belt tensioner and a Y belt tensioner. After that it might not hurt to print some braces for the weak acrylic frame. If you're hardcore about the frame check out the Anet AM8 upgrade which replaces the acrylic one with metal for about $60.

Good luck!

http://imgur.com/a/iSODG

as you can see, my setup is far from completed, I have a 4 switch relay, to control led strip lighting and fans, planning on hooking up printer power to it as well.

Also have a DHT11 thermometer, hooked up to monitor enclosure temp.

Octoprint is straight forward to install, went well, and enclosure plugin very easy, I really like it.

I bought these anti vibration pads from Amazon.
Diversitech MP4-E E.V.A. Anti-Vibration Pad, 4" x 4" x 7/8" Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9dFNAbVYKVG1H

I put them under each clever if the base. THEY ARE AMAZING. I can sometimes not even tell it's printing. I often find myself now checking to see if it's still for some reason. Before you could hear the vibrations through the walls in other rooms.

For the $10 they cost I would recommend them to everyone.

I just mounted the extruder to the top of the housing I built, but there's a mount you can print for the top of the printer that works fine too(https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2369063).
Then ordered some Teflon tubing with the fittings(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077X6FW97).
And these to screw the fitting to the nozzle throat(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GKJCF3).

Put it all together and my PLA+ prints are as acurrate as all those 3D printing channels. Still haven't dialed in my retraction settings, but 6 is working fine for now.

Edit: use the cable wrap that came with the printer around the Teflon tubing and the hotend thermistor and heater to clean it all up.

PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fused Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mosfet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The PSU has a built-in fan that kicks on and off when the PSU gets warm. I don't plan on printing things with any crazy high temperatures, so these upgrades were probably a bit overkill, but I'd rather have components that are a bit more trustworthy than what comes with a $150 kit.

The original power supply is junk. Here's what I replaced mine with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0109IMRPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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When I hit "preheat PLA", you don't even hear the fan change speeds. Works good!

On my machine, I have added the following upgrades:

• Inductive sensor for bed leveling
  
• Dual Mosfets
  
• Reinforced Belts
  
• Buildtak clone (optional)
  
• X and Y cable chains (optional)
  
• Y axis belt tensioner (optional)
  
• OctoPi running on a Raspberry Pi 3 B (optional)
  
• Semi-circular fan attachment
  
• Top Mounted Spool Holder (optional, not for heavy spools!)
  
  I hope this helps!
  

This is the PSU I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I printed these belt tensioners on my other printer so I could put them on during the build: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1784375

I do have some better belts on the way and actual idler pulleys since this thing doesn't have them. I was considering doing the AM8 mod as well, but I'm impressed with the rigidity of the lexan(?) frame, so I may try to do an AM8 build from the ground up, instead of upgrading this guy.


Do you have a photo of the issue you're seeing? Do the stock gcode files the SD cards come with do it too? It sounds like a slicer issue or the rear end stop isn't getting hit.

I was using the mosfets fine before the power supply upgrade.

PSU: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B072J97N8T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Mosfets: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07BJZRSCP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

My hot end uses 18 awg wire and my hotbed uses 12 gauge wire.

I can send you more pics if you send me your email address, thanks.

I have a set of 7 picked out on amazon and my free trial expires in 3 days I'm gonna order them soon, just waiting on a link to something else I am supposed to order for my dad.

Here are the ones that I have chosen what do you think of them? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5IjoDb99E75FN

Cheaper than a new house. If you are even remotely considering doing long prints, you gotta get it.

This double pack was only $16 and it comes with instructions.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5HBFX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It includes the wires, but I think they're a bit short so I'm buying longer ones for the power supply.



I just printed this holder for it. Look through the files and you'll find the double-version.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2018906



Looking at the instructions, this looks like a trivial change. The 'hardest' part is crimping the connectors to the wires. Other than that, you're just moving some connections from the motherboard to the MOSFET.

I haven't actually done the upgrade myself. I was hoping to last night, but I had to work a double shift. I figure it will take an hour or two, with half that time looking for my wire crimpers and cleaning up the holder I printed.

Are you using the belts that came with it? They're plastic and are terrible and will cause all sorts of abnormalities in prints due to stretching and slippage. Get a roll of this instead, it's a cheap upgrade, but it probably won't be your last. :) :

https://www.amazon.com/Mercurry-Meters-timing-Rostock-GT2-6mm/dp/B071K8HYB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542164349&sr=8-1&keywords=fiberglass+belt+anet+a8

I use this one. Has worked good so far. You'll need to print new brackets first tho.

Wangdd22 3D Printer J-head Hotend... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ESTJUL8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You should definitely replace it. I replaced my stock A8 PSU with this one: eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pye9AbCXGDZ5C

I ordered an A8 and I get it this Sunday. Can you give me some more detail on the 4 things you suggest upgrading?

I looked at flashing the Marlin but do I need any extra cabling to perform the flash?

Do either of these fill the prereqs for the upgrades you mention? I ordered them as they came in a package deal with the printer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which power supply should I order? Did I forget to mention anything? I am trying to make sure I buy all of the stuff so I am ready to build on Sunday. I am gonna get a Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint as I only currently have a zero W and a Pi 4 available for use.

Just get something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG
you were going to need one anyway.

I still have my stock PSU and never even installed it after reading about all the issues.

Mercurry 5 Meters GT2 timing belt width 6mm Fit for RepRap Mendel Rostock Prusa GT2-6mm Belt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071K8HYB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lsKQBbB5MHDW2

just ordered this now realizing not sure if fiber glass, what are your thoughts on this belt??

Amazon, here's one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX

You have to use a MOSFET for the bed and hotend. Takes the load of those cheap boards.

These are the ones I bought.

3D Printer Heat Bed Power Module SIMPZIA General Add-on Hot Bed Mosfet MOS Tube High Current Load Module for 3D Printer Hot Bed/Hot End(2 Pack)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XY5HBFX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EkS2Cb7EATCBK

I believe these are what you are looking for?

Igus 8 linear bearings. They were the suggested replacement when I got my A8 many moons ago.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRCMJS/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdb_S8joDbFR7WG1C

Probably not, get this power supply https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=eTopxizu+12v+30a+Dc&qid=1555679452&s=gateway&sr=8-3 and also get a v6 hotend, trianglelab sells near identical ones for $15, the stock heatbreak has a tendency to fall out

Just a cheap one from Amazon. Someone did a video about how much power the various parts of the A8 pulled, I think the bed was 11watts, the hot end 4watts and one watt per stepper. And that the stock psu struggled to put out 20 watts. So the one I got was 30 watts and both the bed and hot end heat up faster. I went ahead and set up dual mosfets, because why not? They cost 10 bucks for 2 and potentially divert 15 watts from passing through the notoriously prone to melting motherboard.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_taa_Bs8uCbH65ZK0T

This. My power supply was dead on arrival and wouldn't fire up. The ones that ship with the kit are kinda crap.

Bought this one on Amazon and it's been great for 1.5 years.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gmb4Cb8FSPKHQ

Only downside is it won't directly screw to the frame. I have mine sitting next to the printer.