Best products from r/AnycubicPhoton

Was the model printed where the wrinkles formed? Because the lost details were probably due to that. I’ve never had the wrinkling issue but it seems like it’s due to the film not bing tight enough (Just guessing). Is the film tight, like if you tap it is it almost like a drum? First I’d try printing stuff on the edges where it’s not wrinkled and see what happens. If you still are receiving sup par results you can weigh the pros and cons of tightening the film. I would try this as a last resort as it may just make your film useless and have to buy more. If you do try to tighten the film use this official video by anycubic ( https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DLi3chV43LQ ) I’m thinking that when you replaced the film you may have used a cap that was too big thus leaving you with excess film. I used the cap from a bottle of isopropyl alcohol and kept it under the film until I had all the screws done sandwiching the two pieces of metal. If you have to buy new film I’d recommend this from amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07GRSGQN6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image) you get 4 sheets for $20 which I think is cheaper than buying official anycubic stuff. I use it myself and it seems to work well (haven’t used it very much)

(Edit: I’d also recommend making the figure more vertical. That may make the details better. If that doesn’t work I’d try adding 1 second to the normal layers. Use use the light supports as opposed to medium and heavy since your print is small. But you may have to add some supports, the auto support isn’t always accurate (use auto but then add what’s needed). One thing I’m not sure is necessary or not but every time I print I re level my plate and don’t turn the machine off until I print to ensure that the print is level (doesn’t look like that was your problem though). Lastly, the thing about your resin hardening in the bottom of the vat can easily be fixed if you move your printer to a spot not exposed to sunlight.
Hope this helps, update me if it does or doesn’t

Typically if a part of a model doesn't print, but later pieces do it's pretty safe to presume it's something to do with supports.

As for hollowing, I'm chasing that dragon myself. I've noticed The hollowing function will cause "artifacts" that show up on the first layer of the print when it's sliced and previewed, and they ruin the model. I've had some success with MeshMixer, but the last model I tried to hollow wound up with cracks in the base, so I stopped until I can spend more time researching how to fix them.

Resins - people are using a lot of Elegoo brand resin for their minis. A lot of positive buzz surrounds the Siraya Tech Blu resin, but be aware it needs to print in a warmer environment, 25C or warmer. I have used the sample translucent green to good effect, and I'm working through a bottle of Anycubic white that is similarly working quite well. I've got some of the Elegoo gray and Anycubic plant-based resins sitting in my workspace that haven't been opened yet. I have high hopes for the elegoo and no idea on how the plant-based resin will do.

No idea if anyone makes an auto-refiller for these printers. Good idea though.

Yes, still have it - I've run about 1.5L of resin through it, just bought another couple of litres and am starting to think about changing the original FEP sheet out.

My only real complaint is with levelling. It's a bit of a hassle, not because it's hard, per se, it's just that you need to be really precise (you're doing ultra thin layers, after all) and it's easy to get a liiiitle out of whack. Then again, it's pretty much a one-time thing, so it's a marginal complaint in the grand scheme of things. I found it helps to run a piece of paper in each corner to check that they feel pretty much the same; it's easy for one corner to be a little loose. Once I figured that out, I spent maybe 15 - 20 minutes levelling (hold plate down, tighten, check... nope, still not even; loosen, repeat) and haven't touched it since.

As for the S... I think the improved LED is probably the biggest upgrade, since it should reduce cure times and will hopefully produce slightly better prints across the whole platform. That said, I don't know that I'd spend the money to upgrade from my original unit - I've never had any issues with Z wobble and would rather see linear rails if to improve the kinematics anyway. I'd actually be tempted to keep an eye out for sales on the base Photon - Amazon has done a few flash sales lately (LOL, they're actually doing one now!) for $370 or so, and at that price, I don't think the S is worth the premium.

https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Assembled-Innovation-Off-line-Printing/dp/B078N2TSYS

1- uncured resin is still toxic. Not kill you toxic, but you should treat all uncured resin with care and use gloves.

2- I cure my prints under a 50 30 watt UV LED lamp for about 10 minutes (rotating multiple times since it is direct light and not reflected like what you are using) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077X5D7GS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3- Just wear gloves and use clean 90+% IPA to wash any resin off surfaces or your skin. I then usually wash up with soap and water as well.

4- I use a razor blade like this https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/2d4AAOSwyLFZsReN/s-l1600.jpg

I'm sure there are better solutions, but this is what I had sitting around. I know I don't have to say this, but just be careful. I slowly work my way around the base peeling it up. You can then use the plastic spatula to get under and pop the print off. Just take your time. You could also try a metal paint scraper.

Howdy! I just got my printer today so this is fresh in my mind. I watched a lot of videos to understand what I needed and how to get everything set up. I would recommend checking out the 3DPrintFarm YouTube channel. There's a lot of great info in there. Here's a list of everything I picked up along with links to Amazon for the items I got off there. Hope it helps!

• Cutting Mat
  
  
• Microfiber Cloth for cleaning vat
  
  
• Activated Charcoal Mat to combine with printed bracket for better ventilation
  
  
• Link to bracket
  
  
• Paper Filter with Metal Mesh (Paint Strainer)
  
  
• Nitrile Gloves
  
  
• Funnel
  
  
• Metal Scraper
  
  
• Xacto Knife
  
  
• Sprayway Glass Cleaner
  
  
• Glasses Wipes to wipe bottom of vat
  
  
• Pickle Strainer
  
  
• Rubber Squeegees
  
  
• Sandpaper
  
  
• Precision pliers
  
  
• UV lamp for curing
  
  
• Toothbrush to clean prints in alcohol

I'm trying to figure out the same thing. I've got a small squirrel fan that I think is too weak but I'm going to try rigging it up. I'm using this to get a 4" output from the Photon:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2877754

Then I have a bunch of material similar to what you linked to for my Winix HEPA air filters for my home. I'm going to cut one of those down and use it. I was also debating getting some activated charcoal to put between two layers of the material you linked to. This is an example of the Winix filter -- comes with both a HEPA filter (white) and then black filters are the ones with carbon (not sure how much):

https://www.amazon.com/Winix-115115-Replacement-Filter-A/dp/B002QUZJAS

There are a bunch of sellers with generic versions of the above so likely other sources for it. Your eBay link looks good too though.

I also came across these filters with active carbon in them for cat litter boxes:

https://www.petsuppliesplus.com/shopping/Nature-s-Miracle-Odor-Control-Universal-Charcoal-Filter/3254

I might try those although I suspect my DIY filter with a sandwich of the black filter material with some activated charcoal from a fish/aquarium supply store will be better and I can swap out the activated charcoal to recharge it later. Here is an example of the activated charcoal looking at:

https://www.petsmart.com/fish/filters-and-pumps/filter-media/api-aquarium-activated-filter-carbon-16972.html

I realize you're in UK but I'm sure you have similar products to all of the above so might be some useful things to try?

My main goal is to see if I can get rid of any smell without spending the money for a 4" blower and the big exhaust can style carbon air filters. Those aren't that expensive but they take up space and I'd rather save the money if possible and keep things small and contained.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KSYRW34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This stuff glows SUPER bright and is a pretty decent transparent blue color. Glows bright electric blue under UV light.

Hi. Based on the info I found Blu by Siraya is not really flexible but simply bendable (not brittle). As far as I know bendable parts may not crack, break and shatter but they may also not return to their printed form after being bent too much. And flexible almost always returns to its originasl shape. https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=6&v=jxuinrFVw7o I hope I'm not wrong on this and you get my point.

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is there a specific reason you mix with ordinary brittle resin?

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Thanks.

Fixed: First off, thank you guys so much for your advice. This forum is a huge boon to owning a photon. Passing it forward, the problem was solved after I did the following:

1. Cleaning the dust out of the room the printer was in and buying an Air purifyier/filter for $50 on Amazon and setting it up so it was right next to the printer, sucking air from underneath the printer where the intake fan is.
   
   
2. After cleaning the room, I bought a bottle of Elegoo Gray. See Here. This stuff is amazing.

Turns out the USB is the most likely cuplrit here, because I switched it out and the print went great.

I switched out my USB for another one and re-leveled the bed too just using the standard procedure with paper. I ignored the unflattened bit for now because the prints come out fine, but I will be trying to fine tune it eventually.

The print turned out great, and everything worked as it should; switching the USB out seems to be the exact problem. However, because of all the failed prints, one of those bruises on the FEP turned out to be a very tiny hole that leaked some resin onto the LCD. I managed to get the LCD cleaned up, and was working on replacing the FEP when, of course, the allen wrench completely stripped one of the screws. So now I have to get a new vat because I can't get this one open anymore, lol

Also, pretty sure this is the exact model USB I used:

https://www.amazon.com/PNY-Turbo-Attach%C3%A9-Flash-Drive/dp/B01D0PR4R8/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=pny+32gb+flash+drive&qid=1574643953&sr=8-10

Visually this looks like it https://www.amazon.com/Iverntech-Stepper-Integrated-Printers-Machine/dp/B07Q2RR6SC/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=resin+printer+lead+screw+motor&qid=1557223923&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

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However the pitch is "1mm", but it has " 2 starts ". Not sure if that means pitch is actually 2mm.

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And if you know of an Amazon seller who has this that would be the simplest solution for me.

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Thanks.

I got my last replacement from amazon. I’ve heard these recommended and I can confirm they are awesome and cheap. You can get 2 replacements out of one “sheet” of this, so 8 FEPs total. I’ve printed 2L worth of minis on my current FEP and it still looks great.i ordered the .1 thickness.


FEP Film for UV 3D Printers |... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GRLC4H4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I just did a tear-down of my printer last night and replaced my FEP for the first time. I too had resin on my screen. I was able to remove 99% of it by carefully dropping iso on the screen where the resin was and letting it sit for a bit until it started to really evaporate. I then took a plastic scraper and very, very, very gently scraped the resin off. Wiped off remaining iso, then took windex and got it nice and clean and shiny.

As for FEP, I just installed this FEP last night, but I didn't have time to try out my handiwork, but I can update when I run a print today. I can say that I went with the 200 micron thickness and it was a pretty tight install--I think if I go with this again I am going to go with 150 or even 100 micron thickness.

It would probably be possible to print the cover in a Photon if you cut it into 2 or 4 pieces and glue them together (with resin). Mine was printed on an heavily modded FLSun cube. I have just just tested the back plate and it would be possible to print it on a Photon in one piece.

The internal ducting on my printer is scratch built, but I would recommend this ducting: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013054, which can be printed on a Photon, I will be designing an adaptor in the near future for this ducting to one of these filters: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B074J8515D, which is fitted to my printer, it works very well and has the advantage of being compact.

A charcoal filter works for indoor use. I printed this adapter on my ender 3:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2877754

And I ran it through a filter with these things:

• VIVOSUN 4 Inch 25 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Ducting for HVAC Ventilation w/Two 4 Inch Stainless Steel Clamps
  
  
• VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan Vent Blower
  
  
• VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter
  
  It works great for me, and I'm very sensitive to the resin fumes.

If the goal is to avoid the fumes, I'd say modify a carbon filter to vent the exhaust through. I've seen several, one going so far to use ducting to attach to a large carbon filter with a 4inch in line fan to draw air through. And then at that point it really won't matter where it is for the most part.

Something like this - amazon link

Along with the likes of this custom exhaust vent along with some standard ducting and a 4" inline fan.

Shake it and strain it (either order). If it's already in your vat, put a funnel and strainer on the bottle and pour it back in. Or use an extra bottle and collect it first and shake it, it should help it strain better.

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https://www.amazon.com/TCP-Global-Strainers-Micron-Filter/dp/B000PA09V0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=paint+strainer&qid=1563463430&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Multi-Purpose-Funnels-Reaching-Transfer/dp/B07B3LMQ8P/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=plastic+funnel&qid=1563463681&s=gateway&sr=8-5

They sell them on amazon, something I googled at random https://www.amazon.com/TCP-Global-Strainers-Micron-Filter/dp/B000PA09V0

The goal is the same to filter out any tiny bits of hardened goo. So any fine strainer is likely okay to use.

Of course man, also here is a list of the other parts I bought.

MyLifeUNIT 3 Way Duct Connector, Duct Splitter for Exhaust Fan Dryer Vent Hose, 4 Inch Dia. (Y Shape) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K2YKGWB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0IHuDb9WEW7WN

VIVOSUN 4 Inch 195 CFM Inline Duct Ventilation Fan Vent Blower for Grow Tent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7S46YZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LKHuDb1CNH3RQ

iPower GLDUCT4X25C 4 Inch 25 Feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Dryer Vent Hose HVAC Ducting, 4", Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMHCTWR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xLHuDbGHERVSB

It should yeah. When I got my photon the whole house stank of resin. When I put https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01DXYMBU6 with a fan on my photon the smell basically went away. It’s still faint in the printer room.

I went with this

Blu by Siraya


I use ChiTuBox and these are my print settings

I do about a 10-15% mix with Anycubic Grey and these are my last print results

Edit: Forgot to add, I cure my model for about 15 minutes before priming.

I wouldn't sleep while it's running. But the one you linked won't ship to me.
But i found a similarly powered exhaust fan.
This one
I've already found tubing and a filter to use.
As for noise I also have a FDM printer in my room that I run occasionally, so I'm sort of conditioned to it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DXYMBU6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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It's a carbon filter

Did I miss something? Shows $300 for me..

https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-Assembled-Innovation-Off-line-Printing/dp/B078N2TSYS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=photon&qid=1566869998&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I picked up a pack of the FEP Film for UV 3D Printers from The 3D Club on Amazon. You get 4 sheets, but you can cut them in half for 8 sheets for $19.95. Saw a review on these for the Photon so I decided to try them, haven't had the chance yet, however.

I can drop a 28mm miniature from 10 feet to a concrete floor, and nothing happens to it printed in Sariya Blu. It's legit. And, it's cheap as shit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KSYRW34 You get 1 LITER for $49.99.