Best products from r/Arcade1Up
We found 159 comments on r/Arcade1Up discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 223 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD Controller Board for HSD190MEN4 M170EN06 17" 19" 1280x1024 4CCFL 30Pins LCD Panel
- 【LCD Controller Board】 Work for 1280x1024 30Pin 4CCFL 5V LVDs LCD screen,Video input: HDMI VGA DVI ,Audio output: speaker connector ( 8ohm 2W 4Pin PH2.0 connection),protecive case :Acrylic Case Acrylic Material for M.NT68676 HD MI DVI VGA LCD Controller Board Protect Case
- 【Compatible Screen models 】17" LTM170EU LTM170EH LTM170E5 LTM170E6 HSD170ME13 M170EG01 M170EG02 M170EN01 M170EN04 M170EN05 M170EN06 LM170E03 , 19" LM190E02 LM190E03 LM190E08 G190EG01 M190EG02 M190EN01 HSD190ME11 HSD190ME12 HSD190ME13 LTM190EX
- 【Plug and play】 Connecting the cables and ports according to link picture details ,Power on ,Button light become green,enter into HD-MI/VGA/DVI signal,the screen can work well.
- 【Input Power Supply】12V DC more than 3A ,Port size :5.5x2.1mm, pls prepare power adapter by yourself.
- Any problem ,Pls provide your screen model no. and connecting pictures, we will solve in 12 hours.
Features:
2. Arcade Spinner for Arcade1Up
Industrial quality GRS spinner V2Compatible with Windows, Linux, OS via 12 in 1 interface boardCompatible with Astroid Unit, 12 in 1 Unit and 6 in 1 Unit12 in 1/USB Interface board: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKJ3SKHInstallation and unboxing video:https://youtu.be/ng_vQuXQHWs
3. ThunderStick LED Arcade trackball (TS-UTB01)
- PLEASE READ INSTRUCTION MANUAL BEFORE USE
- Compatible for Arcade1Up Atari 12 in 1 Unit, Centipede Unit and PC, Mac, RaspberryPi via USB interface board
- Simplest way to upgrade your arcade1up stock trackball to an industrial quality arcade trackball
- Drop in replacement for Arcade1up cabinet
Features:
4. VSDISPLAY HDMI Audio LCD Controller Board Fit to New Arcade1UP 17 inch 4:3 1280X960 LCD DV170YGM-N10/DV170YGZ-N10, to DIY New Arcade1UP Work with Raspeberry Pi
Fit for Arcade1UP Marvel Super Heroes and TMNT and other Arcade1up machine which have 4:3 1280X960 LCD DV170YGM-N10/DV170YGZ-N10 screen, with it to DIY the Arcade1UP to fit Raspeberry Pi. With the resolution 1280x960, the screen picture will NO cut off at the bottom. (Help to check the machine scree...
5. HDMI+DVI+VGA Controller Converter Board Monitor Kit for M170ETN01.0 1280x1024
- Metal Housing Mount is ideal for your Oculus Rift cameras,Arlo /Arlo Pro Mount cameras or other little mount cameras,less 3 lbs camera will be preferable for installation;
- Tilt Angle: 90degree,with OdiySurveil package;
- Materials: Metal,ABS;Remind:There is another similar standard mount bracket with Alluminum Alloy material ASIN: B0756THMYR, high quality with great product. You can search on Amazon.com for purchasing.
- Height of the CCTV Camera Mount: 6.5cm; Weight: 69g;
- Package content: 1 x OdiySurveil CCD Camera Mount
Features:
6. VSDISPLAY 17" 19" 1280x1024 6Pin LED Backlight 30Pin LVDS LCD HDMI VGA DVI Audio Controlller Kit, Fit to Arcade1UP Modification LCD M170ETN01 1 M170ETN01.3 M190ETN01.0 G190ETN01.0
Compatible work with M170ETN01 1 , M170ETN01.3 ,M190ETN01.0, G190ETN01.0, Perfect for Arcade1UP cabinet , Street Fighter Galaga Pac-Man PacMan Asteroids Rampage Centipede,and so on .Use it to DIY Arcade1UP modification with Raspberry PI.Compatible Work With: 17inch 19inch 1280x1024 1280x1024 6Pin LE...
7. Qenker 2-Player LED Arcade DIY Kit for USB MAME PC Game DIY & Raspberry Pi Retro Controller DIY Including 2X Arcade Joystick, 20x LED Arcade Buttons, 2X Zero Delay USB Encoder (Mixed Color Kit)
8. Iot Relay - Enclosed High-power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or Wifi, Relay Shield
Safe, Reliable Power ControlOne circuit, 4 outlets, 2x NC, 2x NOWires to your Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC, or other microTakes the place of a relay board. Fully assembled and ready to use.Includes surge supression, debounce, safety breaker
9. Flirc Raspberry Pi 3B Case
- The best looking Raspberry Pi case made out of beautiful aluminum
- All New Manufacturing Process with improved metal quality and design
- Made for the new Raspberry Pi 3 B+, works with Raspberry Pi 3, 2 and B+ Models
- GPIO and all the main connectors are easily accessible through the bottom
- Built in Heat Sink and comes with a thermal pad and 4 screws
Features:
10. Kinter MA170+ 2-Channel Auto Home Cycle Arcade DIY 2 x 18 W Mini Amplifier Bass Treble RCA Input Audio Mini Amplifier with 12V 3A Power Supply Black
Adjustable bass and treble for lifelike soundPulsating LEDs change colorExtruded aluminum housing with mounting tabs great for Arcade SoundRCA Left and Right inputsINCLUDES 12V 3A POWER SUPPLY
11. Arcade1Up 12 in 1 Interface Board
- Compatible with GRS Spinner/Trackball and A1U original stock spinner/trackball(P.s. USB does not compatible with new 1U upgrade spinner)
- Only compatible with original GRS spinner, NOT compatible with counterfeit
- Convert your A1U stock spinner and trackball to USB Compatible
- No soldering and wire cutting
Features:
12. Easyget LED Arcade DIY Parts 2x Zero Delay USB Encoder + 2x 8 Way Joystick + 20x LED Illuminated Push Buttons for Mame Jamma Arcade Project Red + Blue Kits
- Beautiful LED Arace Game DIY Parts for MAME JAMMA Project!
- 100% Zero Delay USB Encoders and Perfect work for all windows systems!
- Perfect Parts for 2 Player Arcade MAME DIY Project!
- Made with highest quality materials!Heat resistant plastic!
- Perfect LED Kit for Arcade PC Game DIY Project! Easy Install!
Features:
13. VSDISPLAY 14.9" 14.9 inch 1280X390 LCD Screen LTA149B780F with HDMI DVI VGA Audio LCD Controller Board M.NT68676, fit for Arcade Machines/DIY displays/Car Monitor/Digital Marquee/Gauge Cluster
- 14.9" LTA149B780F 1280X390 LCD Screen ,HD-MI DVI VGA AUDIO LCD Controller Board work for screen.
- 14.9 inch special long strip industrial display , LVDS interface LCD screen, Brightness 400 cd/m² (Typ.) Contrast Ratio 500:1 (Typ.) (TM) .Fit for Game display, car monitor.
- Audio Input: HD-MI,Audio Output: Speaker Connector. Can work with :VSDISPLAY Speaker 8ohm 2W 70mmx33mmx15mm 4Pin Cable for LCD Controller Board M.NT68676 HD-MI DVI VGA Audio input
- Input Power Adapter: 12Vdc More than 2A. Power Size:Connector 5.5mmx2.1mm , help to notice there is no power adaptor in the packing list. Recommend adapter :VSDISPLAY Power Adapter, AC 100-240V Input to 12V DC,2A Output,Power Supply, US Plug,Fit for Many Types of VSDISPLAY LCD Controller Board
- Packing list : 1× HD-MI VGA DVI LCD Controller Board M.NT68676 1× 14.9inch LTA149B780F 1280X390 LCD Screen 1× LVDS Cable 1× Converter Board 1× Keyboard With Cable 1x instruction ( Help to notice , help to notice there is no power adaptor and speaker in the packing list.) Please free free to conact us if you have any question (First click sold by 'Shenzhen Weisi Electronics Co., Ltd', then 'ask a question')
Features:
14. BOSS Audio Systems BRS40 50 Watt, 4 Inch , Full Range, Replacement Car Speaker - Sold Individually
Impedance: 4 Ohms, Frequency Response: 100 Hz - 18 kHz, Sensitivity: 82 dBCone: Polypropylene, Voice Coil: 1 Inch AluminumSurround: Foam, Basket: StampedDimensions: Depth 4.1” x Width 4.1” x Height 1.8”, Weight Per Pair: 1 Lbs.3 Year Platinum Online Dealer Warranty
15. SANWA JLF-TP-8YT-SK OEM Red Ball Top Handle Arcade Joystick 4 & 8 Way Adjustable (Mad Catz SF4 Tournament Joystick Compatible)
- (1) High quality Japan-made joystick by Sanwa.
- (2) Suitable for control panels made of steel or plastic to a max. of 5mm thick.
- (3) Solid spring and excellent 'Return to Center', Agile and precise, Firm construction and durable.
- (4) Switchable Ball Top - variety of colors are available, Can be changed to 4 ways or 8 ways operation.
- (5) Ideal to replace arcade / home console joystick for fighting style games and any joystick heavy games.
Features:
16. Openwheeler GEN2 Racing Wheel Stand Cockpit Black on Black | Fits All Logitech G29 | G920 | All Thrustmaster | All Fanatec Wheels | Compatible with Xbox One, PlayStation, PC Platforms
- COMPACT, EASY TO MOVE, EASY TO STORE AWAY
- GEAR SHIFTER MOUNT INCLUDED FOR EITHER LEFT OR RIGHT HAND SIDE USE
- ALL MOUNTING HARDWARE AND TOOLS INCLUDED. READY TO USE RIGHT OUT THE BOX
- ELECTRONIC CONTROLS AND ADD-ON OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES SOLD SEPARATE. DESIGNED AND MANUFACTURED WITH ATTENTION TO DETAIL IN USA
Features:
17. PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller
- Adds subwoofer level controls to any head unit
- Enables volume balance in any part of an amplified system
- Preamp stereo remote level
- Mounts in dash or under dash
- Includes remote mounting bracket
Features:
18. ICESPRING 2 Ports Dual USB 3.0 Male to USB 3.0 Female AUX Flush Mount Car Mount Extension Cable for Car Truck Boat Motorcycle Dashboard Panel -(3 Feet)
Dual USB 3.0 Super Speed mount cable allows you to install it into your car, motorcycle, boat, trailer and etc. Data transfer speed is up to 5 gbps, that is around 10 times faster than USB 2.0High Speed USB3.0 extension cable with USB Input for vehicle, marine, bike, motocycle & etcIt comes with all...
19. SANWA GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor gate for JLF Joysticks Set of 2
Brand Name:SanwaPart Number:GT-YThis GT-Y plate is compatible with the Sanwa JLF series joysticks: JLF-TP-8YT(-SK) ,JLF-TP-8Y(-SK), JLF-TP-8S(-SK), JLF-TM-8(-SK)Set of 2
20. HDMI VGA CVBS USB RF Audio LCD Controller Board Fit to 17" M170ETN01.1 19" M190ETN01.0 1280x1024 LCD Display
HDMI VGA AV USB RF LCD Board Work for LVDS Interface LCD Screen Input Power Adapter:12Vdc More than 2A.HDMI Port Support Transform Audio Compatible With HDMI 1.3/1.4,HDCP 1.2Compatible Work With 17" 1280x1024 LED Backlight LCD ScreenM170ETN01.1 M170ETN01.3 M190ETN01.0Please use source button on re...
I'm 37 and have wanted one of these since I was 10 as well. Also work in IT, but as a programmer, but I have done a lot of PC building and repairing on the side for decades. Never owned or worked on an arcade cabinet before, or worked with Raspberry Pi before. The Arcade1Up MK was also my first (and only so far) cab. As a tinkerer, I modded mine immediately (as in, within 3 days of ownership), and I'll give you some tips for if/when you mod yours that will save you a lot of time and money, because I made a lot of mistakes with mine buying wrong or insufficient parts, and general things that I would have done better/differently if I got to do it over again.
Modding is NOT hard. It's as easy as building the thing out of the box was (requires moderate effort and very little skill).
Hardware:
Software:
Go into a game, and hit Select/Coin + X. This will bring up a special Retroarch menu. Go to
Settings -> Onscreen Display -> Onscreen Notifications -> Display Frame Count -> OFF
. Hit B to go back to the Settings menu, then go toConfiguration
and make sureSave Configuration on Exit
isON
. You may have to do this for every system you're emulating, because it seems to only apply to whichever emulator you have running when you change the setting.None of this is nearly as complicated as it might sound. I was just trying to be thorough and save you a ton of time and money. Hope this helps!
Here's a video of my modded cab:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8lNARvbiKA
Here's what I used:
Buttons/joystick kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WGX76HT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e3u4DbNFYM9PT
Video adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZVMWPZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B4u4DbC4ARRDN
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u6u4Db97MWE57
Pi 3b case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07349HT26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_v5u4Db1FS3T1H
Audio amp: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C1Q1FPT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.6u4DbW8KHPC5
Adhesive Velcro (to mount the various items): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PKQUS4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4.u4DbNJGANFX
1'1/8 Spade bit:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-Daredevil-1-1-8-in-x-6-in-Spade-Bit-DSB1015/203274560
General thoughts on the modding process... I had never done something like this, never used a raspberry pi either. I followed ETA's tutorial, browsed this forum for info and everything went smoothly. I encountered only 2 minor difficulties.
The button/joystick kit had 1 joystick wire that was faulty and thus was impossible to tell from looking at it.. After mounting and connecting everything the stick would not register 1 direction. Thinking the stock was at fault I ended up ordering a second kit. It took some tinkering to eventually narrowing it down to the wire! Drilling the 2 extra holes was rather straightforward but I did not think of how the wires would reach the buttons! I ended up drilling 2 small holes in the bottom of the plastic cover - not a super neat job but it's all hidden anyway.
Bottom line, it's relatively simple but I think any DIY project can have unexpected difficulties.. so be prepared.
Tips for anyone who wants to give this a try.. .
Is it easy? I would say yes. The components are plug and play so it's essentially Ikea furniture mounting level. But.. it does require to do things you likely have never done before so take your time and don't rush. The drilling part does require some minimal manual skills. I wouldn't try drilling through the main board... in particular if your equipment is some lightweight stuff. That main board holding the controls is rather thick, and you would risk damaging the artwork if you mess up. Cutting through the Plexi also seems rather challenging.
Cutting through the thin board placed under the controls however is simple.
One advice, if you plan to put back the black plastic cover that protects the underside of the controls, you need to keep that in mind when you decide to position your extra buttons. If you place them too high, you won't have enough clearance for the hidden part of the buttons due to the presence of the plastic cover. So, either position these lower (as I did) or plan not to use the cover.. it might be possible to cut through the black plastic cover but that sounds like a lot of trouble if you ask me..
Side note, I painted the back panel in black because the back of the cab is a little visible in my setup... It looks pretty good.
The cost...
Well, let's be honest, this is not a cheap project. Sure, if you scored a 75$ cab you're off to a good start but to me the look factor was essential. I personally think the Marvel cab is the best looking one currently available in the A1up lineup for a 2 player setup.
So, 250$ for the cab at Walmart. The Pi, the case, video adapter, SD card... Roughly 200$
Total.. 450$
Conclusion...
I absolutely love this thing... But not for the reasons I initially thought. The gaming part ends up being less important for me than the look. I have it setup in my game room (got a pool table and a second cab) and I find myself just turning the cabs on for the mood more than to play with them. Also, the modded cab with its led buttons looks just gorgeous.
That's it, happy modding everyone!
First off, great job with the conversion, I'm looking to do the same. If you don't mind sharing I've got a couple questions for you.
What speakers did you end up getting? I'm interested in setting up stereo audio as well, but don't know much about the audio side of things. I ordered the Kinter MA170+, did you get the Kinter MA170? They both looked pretty similar, I only went with the MA170+ because it had slightly better reviews.
Which LCD controller board did you get? I ordered this board, but it looks like it might be shipping from China as the delivery window is basically the entire month of November. I'm thinking of cancelling and going with something else to speed up delivery (maybe one of the boards on ebay as they specify where delivery occurs from).
Last question, why the 3M laminate? Was this in reaction to observed wearing on the control panel? Or was this a precautionary measure to make sure the panel stays in good shape over time?
Thanks, and again, great job, I like the coin/player buttons!
This page has everything you would need. Not all of it, just pick the parts you want. I recommend changing out the buttons and joysticks, the ones that come with the cab are not the best, and honestly, who doesn't want fake chrome plated LED light up buttons?! It's also one of the most fun and satisfying parts. The first time you turn it on and it all lights up is golden.
https://www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AFKYVIUEEUBRADJJRYSJUSZORRXQ/3I55RC3I9N013
I agree with the others. Do a little research. I followed ETAPrime's video. The only difference is I am using computer speakers right now. Everything is pretty straight forward, except for the LCD controller board. Make sure to enter your monitor part number, found on a huge sticker on the back, into amazon to make sure you are buying the correct one for your monitor.
The only other thing i don't see on that page is a Flirc case for a Pi 3B+. Really nice case.
https://www.amazon.com/Flirc-Raspberry-Case-Gen2-Model/dp/B07349HT26/ref=asc_df_B07349HT26/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807187084&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5635420979342911607&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019691&hvtargid=pla-440595737920&psc=1
Have Fun!
Thank you for the comments. The second one shows the installation of a potentiometer using one of the speaker leads, which seems to be a good way to externally mount the Pandora Box 6 volume control (instead of having to open the cabinet to adjust the wheel on the actual device). However, I think the leads to the potentiometer would need to be extended to allow it to cleanly mount to the outside of the cabinet.
The first video shows a solution designed to work with something more customizable, like a Raspberry Pi. I just like how professional it looks. The downside is that you have to drill the holes perfectly since at least two of the holes won't be covered by any trim (the amp controls go right through the holes).
The fact that the speaker and power switch can connect directly to the Pandora's Box were big pluses for me. However, from what I read, it seems like different games have different volume levels so I do think having an external volume control is a good idea. The more I read, the more I think I may go with a Raspberry Pi according to ETA Prime's tutorial, deal with the script edits necessary to get the power button to work semi-correctly (seems to just allow the RP to shut down but the amp stays on) and use some of the ideas from the first video I posted. It just seems to allow for the cleanest design with most flexibility going forward.
I guess the ideal solution would be Raspberry Pi + a cheap amp that has a clean externally mounted volume control. Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/d/Car-Audio-Video-Remote-Controls/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/B0002J226O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550113401&sr=8-3&keywords=amp+volume+control ?
Ok so, I did this with one of the new Marvel cabs. I haven't seen the older generations up close but I think that they had different volume buttons. Instead of a three state switch, the one on the Marvel cab is centered and you press and hold left to reduce volume or press and hold right to increase volume. I think that may be the big difference here.
As for wiring, I did exactly what your image says to do except swapped the positive and negative. The volume worked backwards so I had to reverse them.
As for the lcd contoller board I'm using this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9NJ2NR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If the generational difference is an issue, you may be able to buy just the volume button from a newer cab from someone on here or maybe even from Arcade1Up directly and pop it in yours.
Best of luck!
They're listed on Amazon but are currently unavailable, probably to replenish stock. I got mine from the initial offering before the amazon store opened and it was $60. Definitely worth it! Makes a huge difference. It's super easy to install and no drilling or additional hardware is needed. The kit comes with everything you need.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5WJ7BC?ref=myi_title_dp
I purchased a set of 2 pound springs and a set of 4 pound springs for the controls and installed one of each so I could directly compare them. Both are a massive upgrade over the factory springs making the joysticks feel far more substantial. Combined with an 8 way gate, special moves were easier to pull off consistently with both the 2 and 4 pound spring. One wasn’t really Bette than the other, but bother we’re better than the factory spring.
After playing with both I found that I liked the 4 pound spring slightly better. The 2 pound spring felt good but I’m concerned that it would get a little too loose as they break in. The 4 pound spring felt like the arcades I remember. The one down side to the 4 pound spring is that the cab itself would shift around more in the riser, which means I may now need to actually use the screws to lock it in place. I was hoping not to do that as I don’t want to put holes in the artwork but it’s a small price to pay for a more accurate arcade experience.
End result, you can’t go wrong with either the 2 pound or 4 pound spring. Combined with an 8 way gate its an inexpensive way to to make your MK2 cabinet feel much closer to the original arcade.
Edit: Adding links to purchase
2 pound
https://www.focusattack.com/2lb-tension-spring-for-sanwa-jlf/
4 pound
https://www.focusattack.com/4lb-tension-spring-for-sanwa-jlf/
ANWA GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor gate
https://www.amazon.com/SANWA-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B06VVG936T/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=8+way+gates&qid=1565655151&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Thanks for all that,
1
Checked the USB inputs and re-plugged them in like your guide.
https://imgur.com/a/RdPkZ6d
One on the left with the little bit of twisty tie is Player 1
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2
Not sure if its relevant- have it all hooked up like this
https://imgur.com/a/HMYKMcQ
I bought this one from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WAY9848/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There's a main USB port at the end I have it plugged into- but also a 5 pin port marked USB
I assume its just the plug on the end- especially because its detecting the buttons when I config them.
The issue is when I load up a game, all buttons become 100% un-responsive.
From memory- when I hooked it all up yesterday- I actually had it working but only through player 2's select button- but since trying to map properly its all just gone downhill. Nothing works.
​
3
Updated video where it shows me map buttons from scratch, and then load up SFII with nothing happening.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghkvhs-qjSs&feature=youtu.be
​
Thanks for your time trying to help!
​
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I preordered the Best Buy , Aracede1up Atari 12-1 comes with the riser.
Has a TrackBall and Dial instead of Joysticks.
All for the same cost of what the others sell for if you buy the riser separately.
I figure Joysticks will be an easy add.
That being said I looked up the monitor from what Meg Tully showed in her video: http://www.szdengyi.com/upload/web/lcdspec/M170ETN01.1-flat-palel-display.pdf
Then ordered the converter board for it,
https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Converter-Monitor-M170ETN01-0-1280x1024/dp/B07CVGCRKB
So am ready to plug in my PC to make it into a mame system once I make an adapter to tap into the ribbon cable to the control's panel.
Tried to search for more info by finding a patent didn't find it, here are some interesting links:
https://www.trademarkia.com/arcade1up-87905952.html , https://www.trademarkia.com/company-tastemakers-llc-4481842-page-1 2
http://www.tastemakersllc.com/press.html
https://patents.google.com/patent/US20020006828
​
I purchased this 4-pin connectors from Amazon to connect to the speaker output on the video board:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8JKLGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They fit perfectly so I just connected them to some Dupont jumper wires (using some butt crimp connectors) and then plugged the male jumper wires into the connectors on the original speakers. I could have soldered everything, but I wanted something that would be easy to remove.
For the first cab I worked on, I tried drilling holes for the sound similar to what A1UP did on the control deck speaker, but I kind of screwed up the hole placement because some of the "sound holes" are right next the "mounting holes", but it's in a pretty non-visible location you don't really see it. For a second cabinet I had speakers and speaker grills, so I cut out circular holes the full size of the speaker for each speaker and they look much better.
I also added a dual-port USB port so I could plug in a XBOX controller or keyboard fob without having to reach around the back to the raspi. It has already proven very handy for testing/configuration.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY1WDIU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For the video control board, I still don't have a good solution for where to place it. If the cable was longer, I'd try to mount it on the same panel as the speakers. Right now, I have it double-stick taped to the screen bezel just above the control deck, so it is accessible but doesn't look great. If I had a 3D printer it would be a great project to build a small case to cover the board and mount it, but I'm not sure I want to buy one of those at the moment...though it is the most tempted I've been to actually buy a 3D printer.
Super, thank you also for confirming the speaker is a 8 ohm 3 watt.
For an L-Pad I am looking at this: https://www.ebay.com/p/Eminence-Overspx-lpad-L-pad-Assembly-Kit/1500346869
Basically I like the fact it is more flush mount. Now to find some really nice 4 ohm speakers... Maybe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Right now I just have a Logitech G29, but may upgrade in the future. The cockpit is Openwheeler
I absolutely love having the cockpit where I can just sit down and play and not worry about setting stuff up every time
For Asteroids machine if you are not modding it and plan to play much Tempest or Major Havok then The GRS spinner is one ( though at $49 it does increase the cost of the cab - but worth it if you enjoy those games ! ) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5WJ7BC ( currently out of stock but keep checking back and usually restocks in a few weeks) - another recent option for replacement is from A1U store for $18.50 + $12 shipping - but no one has tried it yet so not sure how it performs and for the price difference the GRS one seems a better option since it is aluminum rather than plastic ! ( https://arcade1up.com/collections/spinners/products/asteroids-spinner )
I just did this, but didn't feel like futzing with cutting powersupply wires.. I used this:
Iot Relay - Enclosed High-Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I soldered pins to the 5v output pins of the powerblock and attached them to the relay, using the same wires suggested above. Make sure you wire positive and negative right.
It has an always on(powerblock), two typically off (amp and screen) and one typically on, not used by me.
The power cord is super short, so extend or replace, it uses a standard cord like computers use...
for tempest- try this spinner,: https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B07P5WJ7BC it works great and is easy to install.. I never tried Centipede cabinet, hope you can get a replacement on warranty if its wonky
It’s this monitor mounted as a marquee- VSDISPLAY 14.9" 14.9 inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QGBL568?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I’m running bigbox on a pc, whatever game I select it shows that game marquee. It used to be super expensive to do but the smaller size needed for the arcade1up makes it cheaper so I thought why not. I had to tweak some of the xml file in the theme folder so that the marquee displayed right but I’m happy with it now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K1BHPG1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Starter-Premium-Black/dp/B07BCC8PK7/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=L17CKYNU4ESX&keywords=raspberry+pi+3+b%2B&qid=1557542195&s=electronics&sprefix=rasp%2Celectronics%2C160&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9NJ2NR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
That should be the basic's of getting it up and running, you can always swap out Raspberry Pi case or other items, but that link is for everything all together. let me know if you have any other questions. Happy Modding!
I bought this one. Not cheap, but works perfectly.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06X9NJ2NR/?coliid=IPWX8JMI91YKH&colid=1KQ2V9US0J386&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Thanks so much. I did some research and found that the Pi doesn't draw enough power to trip some of these strips (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=150529.0) but I then found a IoT Relay (https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/) which can start up and shut down by using the gpio positive and ground headers. I would never have found this if you wouldn't have pushed me in that direction, so thanks again!
Thank you everyone. It's originally an asteroids cab so it was an adventure painting over the original graphics. I use the LCD controller with remote on my builds combined with IOT relay connected to its usb port to power on the MVS MV-1C when I power on the LCD. The buttons, control panel, MVS MV-1C, video converter & jamma harness all came from DIY Retro Arcade. Graphic vinyls from etsy and ebay. Bezel sticker if from Samurai Showdown MVS Kit.
I bought this to do volume control PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Iy0ZBbXAAZ5JG I actually attached it to the back so my kids wouldn't mess with the volume but it's great i turned it to the max then adjusted the amp to a level I thought was the threshold of loudness.
Honestly I think you'd be better off getting one of the steering wheel and pedal units, more specifically one with steering wheel with paddles (could be used as high/low for older games) clutch, brake, gas pedals (would work for all games), and then one with the gear shifter (would work for more modern/complex driving games). The idea of making your own is awesome, but if you're going to go out of your way to make a racing cabinet you might as well make it for as many games as possible. Hell if you really wanted to get crazy you could even mount something like this to the front of your cab and turn it into a true cockpit racer.....and you could always switch it over to a flight, etc. cab by swapping out the controls as well. https://www.amazon.com/Openwheeler-Logitech-Thrustmaster-controllers-Xbox-One/dp/B01CGVG0N6?th=1
Four zero-delay usb encoders.
A 4:3 1280x960 LCD controller board
It's got stereo speakers which I intend to use, changing that is personal preference.
I'm in the process of modding my Marvel cab, waiting for the LCD controller to get here from China. 9 days till the lower limit of the ship time...
I've tested the zero-delay encoders with a Hori Hayabusa joystick and Hori Hayabusa buttons I pulled out of my fightstick when I replaced them with a Sanwa stick and Paradise Cherry MX switch buttons. Once all the parts are in I'll be posting my build when it's set up.
question, would any speaker work with the machine or is there some specific keywords I need to look for? I bought this LCD controller (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9NJ2NR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and this amp (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1Q1FPT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I would like to add another speaker so I can get some sort of dual speaker, do I also just plug the additional speaker wire running from amp to the LCD board? I don't have my board yet so I can't tell if there's 2 hole for audio. thanks.
Better price plus prime shipping. Thanks again!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06VVG936T/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you decide to go further down the rabbit hole of modding/upgrading your cabs, diyretroarcade is another good resource. Also Glenn from Glenn’s Retro Show on YouTube has a new direct replacement trackball upgrade for Centipede that should be really nice. trackball
Thanks...I’m going to try it again! Can you share the lcd controller board you used? Or a link to it? I feel like mine may not be correct...I have this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZVMWPZP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NKJ3SKH/
Thanks for the link! It isn't showing up here but I grabbed it from your comment history. Thank you!
I will do tutorial on hyperspin..here’s a link for the marquee 👍😎😉👊 VSDISPLAY 14.9" 14.9 inch 1280X390 LCD Screen LTA149B780F with HDMI DVI VGA Audio LCD Controller Board M.NT68676, fit for Arcade Machines/DIY displays/Car Monitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QGBL568/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bhR2DbMECQTG2
Some put it on the front of the cab below the control deck. You will have to find a way to mount it so it stays. I put a shelf in mine. Doing that you could easily set it on the shelf as a way to mount it.
Another option is to do the volume mod and use the existing volume control to do mute/low/high (https://github.com/dmanlfc/arcade1up/tree/master/Raspberry%20Pi) *I'm posting how to do this with ODROID/Retro Arena soon.
Finally, what I'm doing is I ordered this: PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cHdYCbJ5BCF0J and either going to replace the volume switch with this or put it under the control deck.
Hope this helps :)
Wow. That amazon reseller has it on a high markup for that Odroid XU4. I would get that same one purchased from AmeriDroid.com
Here is a link to the stuff I used:
EG Starts Classic Arcade Contest DIY Retropie Cabinet Kits USB Encoder to Joystick PC Games + Chrome Plating LED Illuminated Push Button 1 & 2 Player Coin Buttons Compatible Mame Raspberry Pi Game Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719HTFMT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qiA5BbEEJ3YFN
Kinter MA170 12V 2 Channel Mini Digital Audio Power Amplifier for Car or Mp3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUSXEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZiA5Bb633VC0N
HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD Controller Board For HSD190MEN4 M170EN06 17" 19" 1280x1024 4CCFL 30Pins LCD Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9NJ2NR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pjA5BbFWECPPY
Of course, don’t forget your cables and power adapters.
glens spinner is straight up butter. $50 well spent i promise.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P5WJ7BC/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=AZKD91FBI6SBK&psc=1
Just picked up a Space Invaders on $74 clearance. I want to mod it to run games off a compact PC. Am I understanding correctly that I would want to get one of these to interface a different controller board (I was thinking of the Street Fighter one) with a screen? I’m planning on installing a regular monitor in it. Also, are all A1U controllers one standard size? Will any of them fit in this cabinet?
The answer is yes player 1 joystick, player 2 joystick and the flight stick. I have the spinner ( Arcade Spinner for Arcade1Up https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5WJ7BC/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_kI5WDbZ4W72RM) I was going to use a preinstalled trackball from 99 Lives Arcade ( ) I am getting a control Pannel from them. and I have not purchased the flight stick yet (suggestions welcomed)
The way you described it, will I be able to use the flight stick track ball and spinner (and later a light gun) for both player 1 and player 2 ?
Replacing the trackball isn't too difficult.
This is what you seek:
ThunderStick LED Arcade trackball (TS-UTB01) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T1FQFRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hJwxDbZHZ1VW4
Edit: it's not any bigger than the stock, but it tracks a lot better.
EG STARTS 2 Player Arcade Games DIY Kit Parts 2 Ellipse Oval Joystick Handles + 20 LED lit Arcade Buttons (Mixed Color Kit) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QMM4P4H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rgsNDbNWSSZAV
VSDISPLAY Street Fighter Arcade 1UP Modification LCD M170ETN01 1 M170ETN01.3 M190ETN01.0 G190ETN01.0 HDMI VGA DVI Audio Controlller Kit, Fit 17" 19" 1280x1024 6Pin LED Backlight 30Pin LVDS LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JCQCQH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.hsNDbF3N0HR5
Yeah I did too and thought by detail and model number it would work...however a Reddit user on here superskaith I believe did his and pointed out his monitor number ended in 06 instead of 11. I looked at the reviews and sure enough users with my board ending in 11 are using the one for it ending in 06. I scrolled down and it said compatible with my number as well, with a lot of mk2 machines done with glowing reviews. So I ordered the one he showed me and did my research and should be the right one coming Thursday. If it doesn't work I'm going with the 29.99 Dell monitor to replace and getting a dvi to hdmi converter. Any money I've lost on this is just shipping. So at least there's that and no big loss on my part. It will work! Lol
New one coming in
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9NJ2NR/
I found this one on Amazon and it works. I I modded my marvel cabinet
HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9NJ2NR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This one has been reported to work with all Arcade1Up monitors HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD Controller Board For HSD190MEN4 M170EN06 17" 19" 1280x1024 4CCFL 30Pins LCD Panel however if it doesn’t work it is a Prime item with free retruns.
​
FYI: This is the steps I did for my already moded cabinet with USB encoders. I ended up purchasing two of these joysticks. They connect with 5pin cables. Keep in mind that it comes with a 4 way gate (square movement) but can be adjusted to 8 way gate (octagon movement) if you purchase the octagonal plate. I prefer 4 way.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BIC9QE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .
Step 1: Remove the stock joysticks by unscrewing the joysticks and ball tops / washers.
Step 2: Unplug the joystick from the encoder board.
Step 3: Place and center the new Sanwa joysticks (view from the front).
Step 4: Mark your holes and drill small pilot holes for your screws.
Step 5: Once they are screwed in, I connected the 5pin cable to the new joysticks and plugged them into the USB encoders that I have.
​
​
SANWA JLF-TP-8YT-SK OEM Red Ball Top Handle Arcade Joystick 4 & 8 Way Adjustable (Mad Catz SF4 Tournament Joystick Compatible) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BIC9QE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kRamDbF5E8NQV
I did not use the Sanwa bracket since I didn't want to drill new holes. I used the one that was already there and mounted the new Sanwa on it.
Both LCD controllers I purchased had my monitor number (m170etnt01 1) listed, as well as having people in the reviews talking about having the same monitor.
Here's the Controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JCQCQH6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews
Maybe something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Controller-HSD190MEN4-M170EN06-1280x1024-30Pins/dp/B06X9NJ2NR
Should I just get a full Happ kit so it comes with everything included? If I buy everything separately, not sure if I will know how to assemble, whether I have all of the parts (gates, metal plates, wires, etc.)
​
Edit: Honestly, can't find anything really worth getting.. considering this but not sure if it's a step-up from the stock stuff included: https://www.amazon.com/Easyget-Encoder-Joystick-Illuminated-Buttons/dp/B00WAY9848/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1540842142&sr=8-12&keywords=happ+buttons%20would%20something%20like%20this%20work%20and%20be%20a%20significant%20step%20up%20in%20quality%20from%20the%20stock%20buttons
I ordered this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JCQCQH6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 from Amazon. I should have it by the end of the week. Before purchasing, I confirmed with the seller that it will be compatible with the M170ETN01.1 (the model # of the LCD panel in the Arcade1up). I'll post back once I get it working.
This is the spinner to get: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P5WJ7BC/ Though they are $50 which seems like a lot when you got your cabinet for $75.
They are out of stock, but back ordered ones have started shipping so hopefully they come back in stock soon.
HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD Controller Board For HSD190MEN4 M170EN06 17" 19" 1280x1024 4CCFL 30Pins LCD Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9NJ2NR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aYB2CbMDZ502G
I grabbed mine from an American Amazon seller who ships to Canada.
The stock "V2" A1U spinner isn't compatible with the interface board (won't output via it's usb port) according to the interface board amazon page:
https://www.amazon.com/Arcade1Up-12-1-Interface-Board/dp/B07NKJ3SKH/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ThunderStick&qid=1563344608&s=gateway&sr=8-5
There is a proper working controller board for the new screens available on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZVMWPZP
It has the proper resolution and everything specifically flashed for the Gen 3 displays.
Edit: I should mention that the only difference from this and some of the older boards is the software flashed to the board. This one does not have the cutoff issue as the older boards do.
Ahhhhh I thought you meant the wall-wart to board connection. My bad. Yeah looks like you got one not compatible with the Arcade1up monitor. They are not one unit fits all u fortunately.
This is the one that I bought for mine.
LCD Board
https://www.amazon.com/SANWA-JLF-TP-8YT-SK-Adjustable-Tournament-Compatible/dp/B005BIC9QE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3K94X8SRJ04BN&keywords=sanwa+joystick&qid=1550471653&s=gateway&sprefix=sanwa&sr=8-3
you mean this:
https://www.amazon.com/SANWA-GT-Y-Octagonal-Restrictor-Joysticks/dp/B06VVG936T
Is SI considered a gen3? I just ordered this HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD Controller Board For HSD190MEN4 M170EN06 17" 19" 1280x1024 4CCFL 30Pins LCD Panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9NJ2NR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_X0XYDbNV0WQY8, will it not work for me?
Here's my list of what I currently own already:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TUSXEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DCPT1N7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H7GF337/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9NJ2NR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought all of the above when I was going to do a RetroPie build. Do you think that would suffice along with the control kit?
It’s one from the eta prime video. It actually did display correctly once and then went to the orange/red screen and then the black backlit screen.
lcd board
Controller HDMI+VGA+DVI+Audio Input LCD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9NJ2NR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC7BMHY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Kinter MA170 12V 2 Channel Mini... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUSXEY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Samsung 128GB 100MB/s (U3)... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWZWYVP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
EG STARTS 2x Arcade DIY Kit Parts... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7R7YW3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Easyget 4 Pcs/Lot 5V LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5Y8E2Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
TecUnite LED Maple Garland LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7J1ANA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Pyle Marine Speakers - 4 Inch 2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JF26LF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Car Interior Lights, CJRSLRB APP... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073DZQRZC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
LDKCOK USB 3.0 Mount Cable –USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DPQFZB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought both of these and both worked
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9NJ2NR
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4FL014
With that said, I'd go with the second one as it's Prime eligible and in the states. The first one have to wait for it to come in from China.
I used these speakers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TY3ZM1 and they plug directly into this LCD controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9NJ2NR for passthru hdmi audio without any external amp
https://www.amazon.com/Arcade1Up-12-1-Interface-Board/dp/B07NKJ3SKH
Here’s a link to the trackball.
https://www.amazon.com/ThunderStick-LED-Arcade-trackball-TS-UTB01/dp/B07T1FQFRM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ThunderStick&qid=1563816070&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Here you go.
https://www.amazon.com/VSDISPLAY-Audio-Controller-Board-Arcade1UP/dp/B07ZVMWPZP/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=marvel+lcd+controller&qid=1573107724&sr=8-2
Forgive me for repeating anything you may already know.
For the buttons and joystick, you need a USB encoder. This or similar:
https://www.amazon.com/EG-STARTS-Encoder-Controller-Joystick/dp/B01L8K21CK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=arcade+usb+encoder&qid=1574973074&sr=8-5
Connect the buttons and joystick to the encoder, connect the encoder to the pi through USB. When you set up retropie, you will be prompted to assign each button for the pi interface.
For the GRS spinner and trackball, you will also need the GRS "12-in1 board".
https://www.amazon.com/Arcade1Up-12-1-Interface-Board/dp/B07NKJ3SKH/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=grs+12-in-1&qid=1574973218&sr=8-2
The GRS spinner and trackball are both designed to plug directly into the stock Arcade1Up hardware. There is no USB connection on those devices. The 12-in-1 board gives you that USB connection. Plug the Spinner into the "P1" port on the 12-in-1 board. Plug the Trackball into the "P2 port". Use the micro USB port on the board to connect to a USB port on the pi.
The pi will recognize the spinner and trackball as a mouse - both devices will be interpreted as the same mouse input. But, that should already be set up to control left/right/up/down movements in any emulator. (Left/right only for the spinner, of course). So, you can jump right into centipede, or tempest or whatever you're using them for.
You may need to adjust the sensitivity of the trackball and/or spinner in each game individually until you get the right performance. There are threads about that on this sub. Here's one:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Arcade1Up/comments/cj1m4b/share_your_trackball_speed_settings_in_retropie/
In that thread, you can ignore where it says to change the speed. As is clarified later in the thread, the speed settings don't matter - only sensitivity.