(Part 2) Best products from r/Archery

Your main question:

You are off to a fantastic start, but I would like to make a small suggestions. The Sf Axiom are nice and all, but I would HEAVILY recommend spending a couple more dollars to get the Sf Premium plus. The quality jump is absolutely fantastic, and the preform much better per dollar spent. In terms of riser the Sf Archery Axiom Plus Lite is probably the best pick for a beginner, which.. you.. already.. picked.. out... ok that works.. Anyways 30# Sf Premium limbs medium + 25" light would be your 68" bow you wanted. Together they cost about 339.98, which is a bit over your price point you mentioned.

Other Stuff:

In terms of maintence pick up some string wax, I prefer this stuff on my competition bow. (You can find it here also). I would also recommend having a couple spare rest, on that note the hoyt super rest is all I use. Nothing sucks more than not having a back-up rest so you can shoot your bow. The hoyt super rest will be your friend from quite some time, and their performance is legendary.

Edit: if you have to pick between getting the "better riser" or the "better limb", I would pick the limb. In a perfect world a sf premium limb + the axiom lite riser is a fantastic combination, but we both know that it does not always work like that. Mind you the Sf Axiom riser is not bad, but the quality jump in limbs I think would be very important to you. I think there is a 25" version of the sf axiom riser, but I do not know where to find it. If you do get the 23" get a set of 30# long sf preimium limbs. The only difference you will see, with the long limbs, is that the draw feels smoother, but the arrow flies slightly slower.

Not sure it will make much of a difference but popular will be a touch lighter then birch but the birch is stronger. So get what ever you can get a better deal on.

I have made some shafts from hardwood dowels and it does take more time then using nice preselected, pre-sized shafts. So you save money but spend time. But since your spending the time anyways you can get closer to what you want.

Since you are likely going to have to narrow down the ends to get them to fit 11/32" points and nocks. Now is a good time to learn how to make barreled or breasted arrow shafts. They would be period of most places that shot archery. And if you have a small plane it is surprisingly quick. I prefer them because it helps to make the shafts more forgiving and gets the weight forward (for breasted shafts). Plus it helps reduce the weight on the hardwood shafts. So it is a win all around.

One last thing. I'm sure you have figured out by now that with the longer shafts you'll need heavier spined shafts and/or lighter tips to get the proper spine (which doesn't matter as much since you shoot thumb ring)

edit to add:
another option is to make footed shafts to get long arrows. I have done that to turn a standard 32" Port orford cedar arrow shaft into a 36" shaft for my Korean bow. Worked great but takes time to do by hand. If I had a router table I might do it more often.

You have a lot of options to go on the cheap. I mean actually cheap. They won't feel premium or awe inspiring but you can still get quite good (I'm currently retraining myself to use thumb, so I have both those bows below but I have the 18lbs version of the snake)
You can try the famous Snake Bow, or the Youth Titan Bow, Both capable of being drawn to 31" safely, both capable of shooting on the left or right side. Perfect for finding your particular style before choosing better equipment. Both have a reputation of being tanks in terms of durability.

I recommend This armguard

As for arrows, there are a lot of amazon sellers, with 25~30lbs being the kind of weight you want to start with, most of the sellers on amazon give you okay-ish arrows to start, I wouldn't get the cheapest option but if I had to choose, I'd get these. Do not expect to be splitting arrows though.


If you chose those 3 options, that's about 100$ leaving 50$ for a tab, back quiver or target bag. Tab/target bag should be the higher priority, all 3 would be best.


These bows and arrows I linked are for, real budget entry level "I've never shot a bow before" archers. Easy enough to pull, forgiving and more forgiving on the wallet.

​

At least I think so.

His form isn't terrible, it's different-- it's an old school style developed more for a hunting situation where you likely had to take a shot from uneven ground, or from behind a bush, or from a tree, or prone, or on your back. Longbow hunting forms focus mostly on versatility and being just accurate enough to put an arrow in the kill zone

When it comes to longbow shooting, there are certain things that translate from Target shooting:

1. Solid footwork-- as Byron Fergison says, every good shot is built from the ground up. The longbow stance is a little wider than a target stance but you still need to be in line, at least for standing shots
   
   
2. Consistent draw-- hunting longbow stances have a different full-draw-form, but their draw needs to be consistent every time
   
   
3. The follow through-- hold the bow steady until the arrow hits the target. No flinching, no plucking, hand locked against the face (his anchor might be a little different. I'll get more into that later)
   
   
4. Consistency in grouping/shooting
   
   
5. ENCOURAGEMENT-- a positive attitude is a must for anyone who is learning instinctive shooting
   
   
   These are things that will not translate from target shooting:
   
   
6. The swing draw-- longbow shooters with heavier bows will have a different "closed" form than a target/recurve archer (think: upright olympic rifle stance vs. military combat stances).
   
   
7. You don't need to hold the bow at draw for as long (because the swing draw, done correctly, will put you in the correct form)
   
   
8. bow canting: It's personal preference. More cant = better field of view = more focus on the target. However much he cants the bow, make sure that his eye is in line with the arrow shaft. Each longbow shooter has their own optimal angle for bow canting, he'll discover it on his own after a while
   
   
9. The anchor point: I'm not sure what you use as an anchor point, but most hunting longbow forms anchor above the chin, usually pressed against the face. This gets the arrow closer to the eye and allows the archer to either consciously or subliminally sight down the arrow. The anchor point needs to be fixed for hunting forms-- no string walking or anchor point raising/lowering, just a consistent draw and anchor each time
   
   Archers you'll want to refer him to:
   -Howard Hill
   -Fred Bear
   -Will Young and Saxon Pope
   -Byron Ferguson
   
   Books:
   Hunting the Hard Way (Howard Hill):
   http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Hard-Way-Howard-Hill/dp/1568331460/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412751131&sr=8-1&keywords=hunting+the+hard+way+howard+hill
   
   Become the Arrow (Byron Ferguson):
   http://www.amazon.com/Become-Arrow-On-Target-Series/dp/091330509X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412751154&sr=8-1&keywords=Become+the+Arrow
   
   Hunting with the Bow and Arrow (Saxton Pope):
   http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Bow-Arrow-Saxton-Pope/dp/1497520010/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412751194&sr=8-1&keywords=Saxton+Pope
   
   The Witchery of Archery (Maurice Thomspon):
   http://www.amazon.com/The-Witchery-Archery-Maurice-Thompson/dp/1446528197/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412751234&sr=8-1&keywords=witchery+of+archery
   
   There are many videos on Youtube of Howard Hill, like this one:
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zo8UZneuggE
   
   and some very good instructional videos:
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98fuYYD5LOM
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJKOZ6KfRRs
   
   and some very bad ones too... Stick with the videos of people who were famous archers. Howard Hill is my favorite for reasons you'll see in the Cavalcade of Archery film, but anyone who's an established trick shooter or a renown hunter can also be trusted sources of knowledge
   
   The key to longbow shooting is that there is no one right way, there's only what works for the archer. It's a lot of experimentation, a lot of failing, but eventually he will learn what will work out best mechanically for him. He will need to take note of the different forms (including target style shooting) and take pieces of what works well for him-- just don't be offended if he doesn't do exactly what you want him to do because the longbow and the recurve are very different beasts.
   
   But above all, encouragement and always having a positive attitude is going to be the best thing. If he's self taught, it's likely he already knows how to take pieces of different forms and adapt it to his own needs (so yes, yo should definitely be teaching him Target shooting form stuff), but having someone to bounce ideas off of or even note when their elbow is low or they're shaking is a huge help, but above all encouragement is going to be the best thing you can do

Can’t say about that Barnett , but I own this crossbow CenterPoint Sniper 370 Crossbow Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2KFCJR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_fnR0BbSQ8KYY9 and I love it. Super easy to use and set up.

Thanks! I would totally go to a store but it's like an all day trip (if I'm lucky) to a Seattle area archery shop from Port Townsend. But - the next time I go out there it's my first stop.

I've ordered a bunch of things from 3rivers thanks for the link.

I'm not shooting off the shelf - I have a cheap https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AVDAM which seems to be working OK.

I'll try to get over to Seattle soon and talk with the guys at The Nock Point ... they seem like a solid shop http://www.thenockpoint.com/

I wondered the same thing. After buying some of the cheapest ones I could find, and later buying some for around the price you mentioned, I found that spending a little more makes my practice more enjoyable and likely more effective. I like [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Feather-Fletched-Easton-Aluminum-Arrows/dp/B000PEMPMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394786199&sr=8-1&keywords=easton+jazz) for the price quality. Treat em right and the extra expenditure is worth it.

I don't understand how to purchase/assemble arrows...I've read guides, spine charts and I feel like I a missing something.


I bought a Samick Sage, 30#. I ended up buying these 1916 XX75 Jazz. Before I got those, I tried buying the shaft by it's self but then I needed vanes, tips, glue etc..The total would have been $70+ for 6 arrows if I did it that way. I also couldn't tell what points and notches fit in what shafts...So many variables,


So when you buy arrows, do they normally come in these separates pieces? The one's I bought were all inclusive.


How do you correctly attach the vanes?


How can I better know what to buy together to complete the arrow purchase?


This is for target shooting in a backyard.



Another Example: If I buy these Tributes from Lancaster Archery, they don't come with points right? So how do I make sure what point I buy, fits?

I personally have a Supreme III Yellow Jacket from Morrells, holds up nicely to whatever my friends and I tend to shoot at it with ( usually ranging anywhere from 35# recurve to a 64# infinite edge. Shot hundreds of arrows so far and it's still pretty snazzy. Didn't reach the thousands yet, but it serves well, I heard hanging it up makes it perform slightly better as well as preserve it.

I haven't shot a bow since I was a child, so I didn't really know what kind of draw weight I would need, I just googled averages and used that. I'm glad I asked.

I figured the target would be junk but I didn't really think I needed anything more than a chunk of styrofoam.

Thanks for the advice, I just want to buy everything and get started, but Ive got some more research to do I suppose.

Edit:
Are These Better arrows?

You're going to have to decide if you want to approach it from a modern or traditional standpoint. I shoot recurve competitively, so the links I'll provide will be focused on modern recurve bows.

Archerytalk, a popular forum

FITA's youtube channel. They upload VODs from every major event they can

Technical resources:

The Easton tuning guide

Texas archery keeps a list of useful links and documents. It's a mashup of things, but sometimes the tuning and instructionals are useful. [In particular, the recurve reference guide.]
(http://www.texasarchery.org/Documents/ArchersReference/archref_05.pdf)


Form and technique:

The basics. This is what we teach absolute beginners at my club.

Total Archery. A very advanced and very significant book. Countries have created entire coaching programs based around the teachings of the book's author.

Precision Archery

Zen in the Art of Archery

Do not listen to ApertureLabs. Besides the fact that he so easily insults the most popular type of archery in the modern world, he's also plain wrong. You don't need textbook form, but it is important that beginners understand the basic reasoning behind using proper muscle groups, stance, grip, balance, and joint orientation. Developing your own technique without guidance will always lead to bad habits because a lot of the above does not come naturally to someone who picks up a bow for the first time. Shrugged shoulders, puffed chests, and floating anchors are all common ailments of beginners who come to my club with no coaching, all of which are difficult habits to shake and impede your ability to improve.

Get a stick on arrow rest like a Bear Weather rest or a Hoyt Super rest. They are $5, will let you shoot those vaned arrows, and people have won natl champoinships using them.

Bear Weather Arrow Rest RH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AVDKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZW0TAb2QH0YKE

I have gotten a lot of use out of both my Power Pull and Astra "form master". They are good rainy day or living room exercises.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKERUE

http://www.lancasterarchery.com/astra-archery-shot-trainer-training-aid.html

You can also make a form master pretty cheap and easy, lots of videos, but the sleeve on the Astra is nice for keeping the straps in place (even when shooting normally).

Any budget or beginner bow would do.

Check out PSE snake recurve twin bow. Usually go for below 60$ and are high enough quality. Make sure you get one below 30# if you want to keep your friends.

As for arrows, you'll want to buy some soft heads and a few arrows with screw inserts. Dont break the bank on archery tag arrows.

Dont forget face/eye/ head protection. Paintball masks work


Snake recurve
https://www.als.com/pse-bow-snake-recurve/p?idsku=525202&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o1&scid=scplp525202&sc_intid=525202&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoIPvBRDgARIsAHsCw09H6mosZ6QWqPhFJHtplT-_oy4GpfDzAQ4008WPlqrLUqX7B4FMJV4aAkzvEALw_wcB

Velidy Sponge Foam Tipped Hunting Arrowhead Broadhead Tips 10pcs for LARP Archery Battle Tagging Game https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J3G6V68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pNu4DbRWZ1WXJ

Some super cheap arrows with tips.
Musen 30 Inch Carbon Archery Arrows, Spine 500 with Removable Tips, Hunting and Target Practice Arrows for Compound Bow and Recurve Bow, 12 Pcs Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DPTHH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DOu4DbXJRAP0G

Core Archery by Larry wise is probably the highest rated. It's only 8 bucks and has everything to do with proper archery form. It also has good pictures to go with the explanations. Can't recommend this enough if you like reading and want a better understanding of proper form.

Very cool Bow , we are factory of Archery , we also have very beautiful bow :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B45934D

Not sure what you mean by "traditional" (as many people have differing ideas of what this does and does not entail).

However when considering traditional bows, I found Chapter 1 of Volume 1 of "The Traditional Bowyer's Bible" to be very instructive in explaining things like: basic physics of bows (i.e. the physical effects of: brace height, limb width and depth, stacking, string angle, reflex/deflex, etc...); as well as the basic advantages and disadvantages of various bow styles (flat vs self/stick vs recurve etc...)

Might be a reasonable starting point

https://www.amazon.com/Traditional-Bowyers-Bible-Jim-Hamm/dp/1721670076/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2TKDYW75NCRTQ&keywords=bowyers+bible&qid=1574747307&sprefix=bowyers%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-1

​

Again the first chapter of the first volume is a nice overview. I ended up buying all 4 volumes and have been slowing working through them as each section goes into more detail than the overview

I have an old Grayling jig from the 90's. It was a hand-me-down/freebie. It's basically a plastic version of the Bitzenburger. I have fletched many dozens of arrows with it and I plan to fletch many dozens more. After a quick google search, I see that the Grayling Fletching Jig is still available today, and $29 for a complete setup seems like a reasonable deal. I just found a right helical clamp for it for about $10.

If this jig had not been given to me for free I would have been skeptical about it and I am sure I would have never purchased one based on online pictures, but the jig has definitely been a work horse. The only routine maintenance that I do on this jig is to check the nock alignment before I start and to adjust the nock rotation if I want the cock feather up instead of out.

If I was going to get a new fletching jig today, I would probably get one of the Bohning Feather Tower Fletching Jigs that does three feathers or vanes at one time.

I use something similar, the Grayling Fletching Jig. Should work about the same as the one you linked, so I think it's a worthy investment. I chose this because I didn't want a bright red one. Haha.

Have you looked into something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Bow-Trainer-Strength-Training-Archers/dp/B00B7PFG38

Otherwise, push-ups, rows or pull ups will help to keep the muscles going. The muscle memory without the above... a different story.

Buy a copy of Core Archery. Fantastic book for compound shooting. http://www.amazon.com/Core-Archery-Shooting-Proper-Tension/dp/0913305189

Like these type of badges? kind of visible

​

They make locking backs for them. https://www.amazon.com/SUBANG-Count-Locking-Keepers-Storage/dp/B01LYS7N9J/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536963454&sr=8-3&keywords=locking+pin+backs

​

​

What you need is a regular stick-on rest; the one that was on there was probably a Bear Weather Rest which can be found pretty much anywhere that sells archery gear of any kind.

You can get one of these to build up your draw muscles. It's very portable, and easy to take with you. It's not as much practice as it is exercise mind you.

To add to that list:

For something philosophical/religious:

• Zen in the Art of Archery
  
  If they're fascinated by the construction of traditional bows and arrows:
  
  
• The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Vol. 1
  
• The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Vol. 2
  
• The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Vol. 3
  
• The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Vol. 4

That's not me in the picture lol. But I received the blue one. Comes without a rest, and I just ordered this one yesterday. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AVDAM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We set up a mini-range in our backyard. First we stuck a thick rubber horse trailer mat to our fence. Then we built a large wooden frame and secured it to the fence, then stacked bales of hay inside and strapped them down. We mostly used paper targets. That lasted for a couple of weeks until we realized that there were snake eggs in the hay, then I screamed like a little girl and made my husband throw it all out.

Now we use the same frame and rubber mat, but we added archery netting. Bungee cords are used to hang cube-shaped or square targets. The rubber mat, netting, and occasionally even indoor-outdoor carpet keep any arrows that miss the target from getting caught in one of the neighbor's pugs.

I wish I had a picture of the frame, but it's wet and dark outside and I'm not wearing pants, so I'll have to settle for describing it. It's a large rectangle, about 8 feet high (same as the fence), 10-12 feet wide, and about 4 feet from the fence itself. It has two parallel planks at the top that run the entire length. The front is used for bungee cords and targets while the one behind it is used for hanging netting and/or carpet. (My husband occasionally shoots through netting, which is why we added outdoor carpet. It's not pretty, but it's effective.) The rubber mat is attached to the fence and is a last line of defense. (It's a pain in the butt to pull an arrow out once it's stuck in the rubber, so try not to hit it. Still probably better than having to pull it out of a pug though.)

Marked off at 18yds. I have a line in the ground where I stand and some stacked cement block halves I use to hold my field point arrows. I was surprised how cheaply I could get a fun setup.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZB9474/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_x1koyb1M0P3V0

Same thing as the others posted, but this time it's actually an amazon link: http://www.amazon.com/Bow-Trainer-Strength-Training-Archers/dp/B00B7PFG38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453405938&sr=8-1&keywords=bow+trainer

Absolutely. You can go spend $300 on a crossbow and be shooting golf ball sized groups at 40 yards immediately with it. Bring a rangefinder and know which crosshair to use at which range. Looks to be legal during archery season in Texas. It's a no brainer in this situation.

My buddy got one of these last year for ~$250, I couldn't believe how quiet it was for such a fast xbow and so cheap.

https://smile.amazon.com/CenterPoint-Sniper-370-Crossbow-Package/dp/B06Y2KFCJR/

I shoot a wicked ridge invader g3, it's louder than his, but does have a nicer trigger. There are tons of options out there of course.

http://www.amazon.com/Bow-Trainer-Strength-Training-Archers/dp/B00B7PFG38/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1420577684&sr=1-1&keywords=archery+strength+trainer

i have a hoyt charger, which is a compound bow

I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZB9474

hanging from one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Products-BTS-Target-Stand-Olive/dp/B009205TEG

I also have a couple stacks of hay bales, fronted with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ZJSIP0 The great thing about that cardboard is that it ships as-is but covered with plastic wrap. You can just put it in place as-is and leave it outdoors.

I also have a 4'x4'x2' frame made of 2x4s and covered with landscaping cloth, stuffed with plastic bags and bubble wrap and all kinds of plastic crap and old blue poly tarps and plastic sheeting. I have a small tarp I throw over it when I'm not shooting.

The hay bales have to be replaced yearly. Everything else is nearly indestructible.
All of those things sit up on pallets.

I shoot a 45lb sage and use 30" Easton jazz 1096. They are cheap on Amazon and come fletched, have inserts and points already installed. Havebt used any carbon to compare them to but the aluminum does fine by me, hard to bend unless you hit a tree or something at a weird angle.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PEMPMW?vs=1