Best products from r/Autobody

We found 27 comments on r/Autobody discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 39 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/Autobody:

u/bd_sic · 3 pointsr/Autobody

The easiest thing to do is get some touch-up paint from somewhere like Automotive Touchup and fill it in. If you're really ambitious, you can fold a piece of sandpaper (800 - 1000 grit) and lightly sand the rust (be careful not to scratch the surrounding paint -- you ONLY want to sand inside the chip). You won't get all the rust off, but it'll ensure the paint adheres. That step is optional, so don't worry if you can't do it. Next, make sure you clean the surface good with rubbing alcohol or prep solvent before applying paint. I would also recommend getting a more precise applicator to make the job easier. You can also chip off the reaming piece of paint that is raised and fill that in.

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If the chip is deep (which this one looks like it is), then you can apply multiple coats. Just make sure you let the paint dry between coats (the paint should have instructions for how long that'll take). It's not going to look perfect, but it won't be rusty anymore.

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And finally, you can get some clearcoat to ensure the touch up is shiny like the rest of the car. For your context, most cars are painted in what's called base coat/clear coat. Meaning there's two layers of paint: (1) a bottom layer which is the color -- in this case, the grey (this drys in a matte finish); and, (2) a top layer of clear paint which makes the car shine (this, obviously, dries shiny). The color touch up you get is the base coat and will dry matte, so if you want to match the car's finish, you'll also need the clear.

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Hope this helps!

u/ZippyTheChicken · 2 pointsr/Autobody

yeah thats not too bad

remove those anchors and sand the area down

hammer that wheel well straight

then use some kitty hair to fill in the holes and remaining uneven areas

primer

matching paint in a rattle can and 2 coats of clear

it will take you a weekend

if your temps are still 70+ you need that to cure the filler and for the paint

its not going to look perfect but its not going to look like you were trying to hang drywall on your car.

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https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-00277-Glass-Reinforced-Filler/dp/B000VKZ3JM

sandable primer filler .. many coats

a can of duplicolor spray paint and clear

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and that depends on how much you care about the paint.. duplicolor will be better than you have if you spray just that area .. don't spray the door.. and the paint won't last very long maybe 1-2 years but its going to look better than holes.. if you want it to look good and last you have to use professional paint which will cost you about $100 for a kit of paint at a local autobody supplier with clear and then you need a compressor and paint gun.

vs $10 in spray paint at your local autoparts store for matching paint which might be kinda somewhat close .. don't paint the door or much of the quarter panel .. tape and news paper off everything but about an inch from the damage .. its gonna look better than it does and cost you $40 for both sides vs $400

u/CornbreadGT · 3 pointsr/Autobody

Do you have a picture of the damage? Depending how deep it is you’re gonna want to start with 80 or 150 grit. Sand it down as much as you can to level out that scratch. It’s best to use an actual palm sander when doing this otherwise you’re going to be sanding for a while. You must keep the sander moving in an area larger than the scratch....think shaving a layer all around so it’s even and will make your feathering easier. Don’t use traditional bondo, they make plastic filler (https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/evercoat-poly-flex-flexible-polyester-glazing-putty-411-p-15571.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImYjOtbKS3gIVS0wNCh0_6gLVEAQYASABEgJsm_D_BwE) which has flex in it made for plastic body parts. I use that at work but it’s expensive...you can find a cheaper one. The traditional “bondo” is meant for metal panels and it will crack on a plastic bumper. I put that on before I feather out because you’re gonna want sand that down with 150 also. After you got it nice and level go to 240 and then 320 grit sand paper. Then you may prime it. I usually go 3-4 coats of primer. Sand that down with 600. Ideally you don’t want to just paint right over the primer. I use sealer that is meant for plastic parts but if it’s a DIY at home you can probably get away with not doing that if you wanna save some bucks by using this https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39133-Flexible-Primer-Surfacer/dp/B000HAXLZO So then yes base coat then clear coat. Take your time if you have any questions just ask.

u/SoaDMTGguy · 5 pointsr/Autobody

You should be able to simply glue that back on. Can you press it back into place with your hands? Does it sit nice and flat? Someone can probably recommend a better adhesive, but I've had really good luck with 3M Spray Adhesive.

As for the glass damage, I would use a silicone sealer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81730-Flowable-Silicone-Windshield/dp/B000BKEBO0

If you can apply it from the inside that's probably best. Hopefully the outer face of the glass isn't damaged at all. The sealant can fill in the back and keep it from getting worse/keep water from getting in behind the mirror.

u/andreifasola · 1 pointr/Autobody

The car is a 2012 family owned Prius - it's nice enough that I would spend maybe 200 usd - or something like that. I have some wood projects that I think would look nicer if varnished with the gun - so ... might be worth getting acceptable quality

I'm working with 4.8 cfm at 40 psi. So I found this Iwata W101 with 1.3mm and 5.1 cfm at 35 psi - 200 usd ish. I see that it's quite respected for small jobs by pros, nice atomization.

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Or this SprayIt Kit, or Neiko- similar price range - that specs wise work well with the small compressor. Seeing youtube vids I see that they're not as even as Iwata (not bad, just not in the same class) and tend to form a bit of orange peel (or maybe the painter wasn't as skilled). I'm not an expert, just can't tell if these are crappy or acceptable good - good enough to forget the Iwata for 200 bucks.

For a while I was torn. I heard from this pro (see my other post) that you can spray diluted primer with a 1.3mm tip. So I thought that Iwata was everything I needed for a minimalist approach. Now that I sit on all these words I come to think I might want something like an Iwata for paint/clear and some SprayIt/Neiko gun for priming.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Autobody

You could buy another headlight from amazon . And here is a tutorial on YouTube . Follow through on each step and you’ll be alright. Don’t think of it as rocket science but more of a art, like playing with legos. Good luck.

u/SnowThrasher · 2 pointsr/Autobody

Never used that website but seems expensive.

Amazon has this kit which seems nice because it includes clear coat. Just make sure you get the correct color. Even a color match will have a variation in the color. Be prepared, you will see the fix.

Then you just need a primer Try not to sand to metal.

u/LegalizeGayPot · 2 pointsr/Autobody

Lots of dealerships are adding this on as an extra. It’s not oem, it’s a crappy made in China laser projector like this one.

Its super lame. Funny thing is half the time they aren’t aligned straight or they’re out of focus. Doesn’t make the car seem classier, in fact the opposite.

In my area it seems like every dealer has it, I’ve seen them on new jeeps, rams, toyotas, and subarus

u/deutsch-technik · 2 pointsr/Autobody

Basically clean thoroughly, you want to fill the deep scratches with touch-up paint, then over the touch-up paint with clear coat when it's dry (you can find two in one pens at auto parts store). Once the clear coat touch up is dry, you can be a scratch buffer/remover and try to buff our the more minor scratches.

I use this and have had decent results:

Turtle Wax 50935 Scratch Repair & Renew 7 oz 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N6DRHL6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_ZjtMDb4NJPQZ2

If you want it totally fixed, you'll need to have it repainted and blended.

u/InsertBluescreenHere · 1 pointr/Autobody

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM

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i have good luck with that stuff - wallyworld has it as well as every auto parts place

u/MuppetHolocaust · 1 pointr/Autobody

This is directly in front of the passenger-side front tire. The plastic piece has a chunk that looks like it got ripped out, and the part that’s hanging down is making scraping sounds when I drive at high speeds.

After some googling, it looks like it might be a part of the fender liner, like the one shown here:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NQ1ZR26/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_i_vPKLDb54HNE9Z

Can anyone confirm, or offer any insight?

u/RandomWon · 1 pointr/Autobody

This is funny because it's true. When I painted the Camaro I also got cranky as hell! It's not a good buzz like people think.

There are no holes, the paint is down to the primer in those spots. And the body pushed in as you can see. The Bondo and paint blending will be the easy part for me. Since the dent is on a seam with the mounting tabs for the bumper I wasn't sure what tool will effectively pull it out. I may need to buy something like this Auto Body Repair Slide Hammer Set Set or a hydraulic ram? This is a repair I have not tackled before.

u/Dj_White_Gold · 1 pointr/Autobody

I’m afraid I can’t help you there. I’m in the US. Most of what I can buy is called either polishing compound or rubbing compound, and it’s either made by Tuttle wax or meguiar’s. This is what’s available here. It’s just a paste or liquid with some very fine abrasives.

u/NelsonParatore · 1 pointr/Autobody

I ended up buying some of these badge holders:

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0011EO8CA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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So far they have been working out fine.