Best products from r/BMWE36

All E36s have the same sheet metal, so replacing the speakers should not be hard. Buy a 4 channel amplifier, a set of 5 1/4" component speakers for the front and a set of 6x9 speakers for the rear.

I have these adapters. They work perfectly with the stock screws and mounting holes in all E36s- regardless of factory speakers. 6x9s are the way to go for the rear. More surface area on the speaker cone means the capability for a bit more bass output on the highway and so on. Also, 4" drivers are hard to find and not worth the trouble. Link to adapters:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AZOZRLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zrzCybCMQ31D1

This amplifier will fit on an 1/8" sheet of ABS plastic where the stock amplifier location is (you may or may not have a factory amp):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S7G1TPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tHzCybJXA9DDS

You will need a line output converter if you want to keep the stock head unit- which it sounds like you do. This goes in between the head unit line level/speaker outputs and the amplifier inputs:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XLzCybRKTEWY2

Speakers are a matter of personal preference. I'd recommend you go to your local big box or car audio shop and listen to the board. Pick the 5 1/4 and 6x9 speakers you like best- any mainstream set should fit with little effort. If you don't feel like looking, here are some would-please-everyone suggestions.

These speakers could perform nicely in the back:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJzCybAXEKGZV

These will fit in the front (hot glue the tweeter into the factory tweeter basket on the door panel):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MKzCyb1CT1SCX

If you want a direct aux input, you can modify the stock cassette head unit to accept an aux input with nothing more than a butchered aux cable and a soldering iron.

I am not an A/C system master, but have read up on them a little when I was shopping for an E30 without A/C...

First of all, your E36 uses R12 refrigerant (pg 640-11 from the Bentley manual), but this unnecessary information. Before anything, take your car to an A/C shop and have them flush your system completely, this should be free because they can resell the refrigerant (If not pay you for it). Then do a leak test with a can of dyed r134a using a conversion kit fromyour local autozone/advanced auto/oreilys/etc. Something like this below.

http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-320-Retrofit-Kit/dp/B001AIZLQY

And then most people recommend replacing the expansion valve as well.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019ILOF2/ref=asc_df_B0019ILOF24310609?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=shopzilla0d-20&ascsubtag=shopzilla_rev_121-20;14643263694201161168710070301008005&linkCode=df0&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B0019ILOF2

Not sure on the accuracy of this information! But good luck! I got lucky with my E36 being R134a!

Very nice. When the headliner was crapping out in one of my M3s I re-did it using micro-suede, end result was worth the effort. It has held up well and cleans nicely with just a damp cloth. These things work great for getting lint and other stuff off of it:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UQQ910/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No name chinese brand

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JBI8ITC?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title


Fitment isn't absolutely perfect but for the money I'm happy, bright and everything works and is plug and play

I picked up this code reader for my car: https://www.amazon.com/V6-4-Creator-Scanner-Multi-System/dp/B00VSYZ2NC/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1494109830&sr=8-8&keywords=bmw+code+reader

You'll also need to order an adapter to connect it to the round port under the hood...you can find that for like $8 on eBay. I've been pretty happy with it.

Thanks! 17x9 Et30 with 245/40’s all around. The center caps I actually got from Amazon😂 here’s the link. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LB4RH8F/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_p5mMDbRYXJ82B

The yellowing was pretty significant so I decided to go with a kit with the sanding attachments to get it clear again: 3M Restoration Kit

Took roughly an hour once i had the headlights out, its super straight forward and all you'll need is a drill. The ones with the wipes or sandpaper sheets were priced the same at the auto part stores around me but decided to go with that one(~$10-20).

This is the one I got when I got my 318is in January. Bought two USB tiny nub drives (like 64G that barely stick out past the port) for the front USB port and have the external mic too...Bluetooth works great, sounds better than my headsets on the other end apparently

​

https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Digital+Media+Receivers/MVH-S501BS

​

Apparently discontinued, but Amazon apparently still has some...


https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-MVH-S501BS-Digital-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B074Y9ML73/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=MVH-S501BS&qid=1568671602&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VD2W9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AXrADb9YDRVRB

These guys. You have to do some dremel work to get them to fit in the adapters. Not much though. Yeah you have to cut the factory wires but it was pretty cake.

i just use this and it works just fine, keeps the front seat and steering wheel cool

Buy this, be done. When you move to an area that doesn't have asshole cops just swap it for the smooth trim piece. Easy peasy.

I bought my own 14 and 16 gauge wiring, connectors, and relay from amazon for 1/4 of what the companies wanted to charge... just search Bosch 5 pin relay on amazon and you should find them. Bosch 332209150 Relay such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010AH6YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lwmkDbBCF94EQ

No, I just used the regular housing gasket.

Oh yeah, I had a tough time bleeding my car for some reason. I ended up using this tool to bleed it. If you have access to an air compressor, this or this cheaper one would work better. With the funnel, there's no BMW adapter, so I had to make one out of an old cap by drilling a hole with step bit.