(Part 2) Best products from r/BeardedDragons

> Regarding the heat mat, this is something that we have underneath the bottom glass of his viv, with a layer of felt on top of the glass so he doesn’t have direct contact with any of the heat elements.

Well, looks like I've got egg on my face then! Okay, way less concerning but!

>We live in the north of England, do you think it would be fine to take away the heat mat during the night and him have no heat source, or could you suggest an alternative?

Heat matters, and you are on the right course with paying attention for nighttime heating matters! If your house drops under 19C at any time, then supplemental heat is a requirement! 19C isn't some magical "they will die" number, but it gives them a nice healthy minimum safe range, below which we can have problems!

The issue then, comes with how we give them this heat. Bearded Dragons are hard wired little lovable scalebabies. They do things because they are programmed to. For instance, light == warmth to them. If they are cold, they will go to sources of light (thus why heat lamps are great! And making sure your UV tube runs along next to it gets you double the benefit!). Likewise, if they are hot, they will avoid light, and go down. They will seek out the lowest point they can, to beat the heat.

See how that might be a problem? If the primary source of heat at night is under his tank, his brain doesn't understand how to cope and he will drive himself to the least comfortable place he can. Woops!!

What you really want to offer to keep him over 19C at night is something like this. Ceramic Heat Emitters screw into a normal light socket, so you can treat it just like your already existing heat lamp. The plus here, is that they produce zero visible light. This means that it's fine to use at night, as it wont disrupt their sleep!

It's not a replacement for your basking lamp (once again, that light helps drive good behavior and lets him become comfortable!). But it's an awesome addition to a vivarium when your house cannot provide safe temperatures on it's own!

Buy one, get yourself a fixture to mount it around the middle of his tank to keep everything safe at night, and slap that puppy on a timer! If you are worried about getting things just right, you can over buy the wattage on the bulb, and then use something like this to tune it just perfect for your baby!

Again, Y wish you all the best luck in figuring out what's wrong here. I hope it's some environmental thing that you can identify and correct with this dude! It sucks when we mess up, but it's so nice when we get to fix it!!!

Read the care guide in the sidebar, even if it's overwhelming. Read it all, read it twice, commit it to memory. If you truly care about the well being of the animal then this is going to be your go to guide, while we're always here to answer other questions. Also, you mention only getting one now because you're going to be free for the next dew months. I just want to make sure you understand that you're committing to a 15+ year responsibility here. 15 years if preparing and offering food daily, 15 years of socializing, 15 years of new UVB lights every 6-12 months and heat bulbs more frequently, 15 years of vet visits. If you think you can handle it that's awesome! I just don't want to see the animal end up in the same situation it was already in because you got over eager with your free time. Here are the basic necessities and the best place to buy them:

UVB - Fixture + Bulb

Supplements - Calcium + Multivitamin

Temperature - IR Temp Gun + Ambient Thermometer / Hygrometer

Heat Bulb - Go to Lowes / Home Depot/ Etc... and look for PAR38 Halogen Flood lights. Buy a few different wattage to see which gives you the proper temperature. Direct basking temp (check with IR Gun) should be no 105f - 110f. Once you find the bulb that works you can return the rest and you'll always know which wattage you need in the future.

Food - Superworms are not a staple and should only be fed as treats. Dubia are ideal and can be purchased here. Crickets, BSFL, and other treat worms can be purchased here. Buy online, you will save a lot of money. If the animal is as young as you think then he should be eating 80+ feeder insects every single day.

Substrate - Pick up some slate tile, shelf liner, or contact paper while you're at the hardware store. Do not use a lose substrate or reptile carpet.

There are obviously tons of different options for basically everything, but I'll make a list of what I bought. In no particular order.

Tank - Any 40+ gallon long (36" by 18" floor space) tank works, or many people build 4' by 2' by 2' enclosures themselves from wood. This is what I have: http://www.petsmart.com/reptile/supplies/habitats-and-decor/terrariums/national-geographicandtrade-sanctuary-reptile-terrarium-5210603.html.

UVB light - By far the most used and best options are either Reptisun 10.0 or Arcadia 12% fluorescent tubes, 1/2 - 2/3 the length of the enclosure. Arcadia is hard to get in the US, so I have Reptisun. t5 is stronger so it doesn't have to be as close to the basking spot, has to be replaced every year rather than 6 months for the t8, and is generally better. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO.

UVB fixture - With t5 you don't need a reflector, t8 you do. Any normal fixture will work, but with the t8 it needs to be below the screen top. This is a good one for the t5 that can be hung and comes with a reflector: https://www.amazon.com/Sunblaster-904296-NanoTech-Fixture-Reflector/dp/B00AKKUBDQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1492359012&sr=1-5&keywords=sunblaster.

Heat lamp - Any large reptile heat lamp will be able to handle more watts and will have more balance than the smaller ones, but get whatever you need to get the correct temps.

Heat bulb - You don't need a reptile specific bulb, it just needs to heat well. I use halogen flood lights that give off lots of heat and can be dimmed with a lamp dimmer to adjust based on how hot the room is.

Substrate - Stay away from sand and other loose substrate, it can cause impaction and grow bacteria. Reptile carpets are fine but are hard to clean. You can use paper towels, but many people use either tile (my favorite, you can pick out textured tile and have a hardware store cut it for ~$10) or non-adhesive shelf liner.

Accesories - Any large flat object that absorbs heat works well as a basking spot. Water bowls raise humidity and are usually not used, so you don't need one. Many people get a hammock like this: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Hammock-17-5-Inch/dp/B0002AQDKO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1492359509&sr=1-1&keywords=reptile+hammock. For them to climb on.

Thermometers - The analog ones are terribly inaccurate, a digital one with a probe works well, I like temp guns though. This works well for me: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1492359802&sr=8-4&keywords=temperature+gun.

Food - You'll need calcium and vitamin powder. Rep-cal works well.
Calcium: https://www.amazon.com/Rep-Cal-SRP00200-Phosphorous-Free-Ultrafine-Supplement/dp/B00BS96G1E.
Vitamins: https://www.amazon.com/HERPTIVITE-Multivitamin-reptiles-amphibians-Bottle/dp/B00076HT3S/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00076HT3S&pd_rd_r=V9S5NZ2T4FCBQZMDQX40&pd_rd_w=a2CFC&pd_rd_wg=axaiO&psc=1&refRID=V9S5NZ2T4FCBQZMDQX40.

Extra - Lamp dimmer if you have a light that works with it. Plug in timer so the lights stay on a consistent schedule.

Let me know if I forgot anything or if you have any more questions.

From what I understand you want to feed however much she can eat for 10 minutes. When I fed mine crickets I had a spare 10 gallon tank that I kept them in so I would just stick her in the cricket tank to eat to her hearts delight and then put her back once she stopped eating. Worked out way better than chasing down cricket that she didn't eat. You don't want to leave the bugs in overnight because they will nibble on your beardie while she is asleep.


I recently bought this temp gun to keep track of her basking area. I was pretty sure that the temp was right because she opens her mouth when she basks but the gun gives me more comfort to know the exact temp. http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY

I also bought a separate stand and light fixture to set up in my bedroom so she can run around in my room. There aren't any places she could get stuck in my room and after running around a bit she always comes back to the basking spot in my room.

You don't have to buy the reptile bulbs for a heat lamp, you just want the uvb which you will have with the zilla light. The heat light I use now I bought from Wal-Mart and it heats the tank better than the mercury vapor bulb I had before. They have them at Walmart and probably any feed stores because they are often used to keep chicks warm. http://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-250W-Heat-Lamp-Red/16911779

Also you can get an inexpensive light fixture from either home depot or lowes. Clamp Lamp

Also if she is a girl you want to make sure you dust her food with calcium powder. The reptile specific ones are pretty expensive so I bought this at amazon a few years ago and I still have a ton of it.

If you want to keep your crickets hydrated instead of buying those cricket water crystals just buy Non-toxic ones My first bag I bought in 2013 and didnt need to buy a new bag until 2015 and that is because I am raising my own Dubias now.

You can buy a digital thermometer with a probe which will give you cool side temperature, hot side temperature, and humidity all in one. Many people like the accurite brand and I have samshow brand (which id never heard of before but it's working well for me). You can hang it inside the tank on the cool side with a command hook and run the probe along the wall to the hot side where you place it directly on the basking spot. The unit itself will measure the "indoor" temperature on the cool side and the probe will measure the "outdoor" temperature on the hot side and just keep it there. It takes about 45 minutes to get an accurate reading so if you just leave it, you can check the temp at any time.
If you want something more, temperature guns are awesome. I have etekcity brand from Amazon. They'll give you the surface temperature rather than the ambient temperature like a probe does and you'll get a reading in a second! It's particularly handy because you can do scans of different places in seconds where with a probe you'd have to move it and wait 45 minutes. I also use it to measure the temperature of beardie bath water.

Edit: thermometer+hygrometer
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MRV5NTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495569179&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=samshow+digital+hygrometer+thermometer&dpPl=1&dpID=513t74kmGML&ref=plSrch

Temp gun
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00837ZGRY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are many good brands but those are the ones I have.

Something else...I've had him since Sunday night. He ate yesterday (Monday) about 20 crickets but wouldn't eat a second time so I ended up having to take them out of his cage. I put 10 crickets in this morning and still not eating just yet. Is he stressed?

I'm using these thermometers on the back a little above halfway up about where his basking spot is: http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Economy-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B004PBB1JE/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

On the warm side...83ish....on the cool side...70ish. I have a 100w basking light sitting on the lid and on the cool side the Reptisun 10.0 compact (for now)....why the low temps?? Should I get a higher wattage for basking and if so...what wattage should I try? 150w? What about UVB? I'm probably going to order the Reptisun 10.0 tube with a hood...deciding on the hood right now. I've just gotta figure out if this thermometer (which gets good reviews from beardie owners) is accurate or if I need to add maybe a 75w lamp with the 100w or bump up to a 150w or what...the temperatures are really stressing me out right now and I know he may be stressed at first but I feel like if his temps were higher that he'd be eating regardless...

Thanks for all of the help...I really want to get this temperature thing under control. He's been very active and attentive and appears healthy and doesn't show any signs of being unhealthy...I'm just worried about those temps, though.

Thanks again!

as others have mentioned relocation stress is a thing. they sometimes don't eat for the first few days you have them. but getting them comfortable will speed up your time table a little bit.

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I highly recommend you live feed them some feeder insects https://dubiaroaches.com/collections/bearded-dragons you can get the baby bearded dragon variety pack and it seems to be a pretty balanced diet for baby beardies. it has baby Dubai roaches and nutriworms or soldier fly larva whatever you want to call them.

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Here are my recommended reads from the sidebar for new dragon tamers

• basic cheat sheet https://imgur.com/a/CrvIE
  
• to determine if food is good or bad for your dragon check out this link http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutrition.html
  
• Guide on Bearded dragons https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B4-LK25H4wfvMFJTVXJZaUExT3M/edit
  
  i think pet smart calls dubia roaches spotted roaches if I remember right. they are expensive there though thats why I linked the site. the problem with shipping roaches is they might die when it is to cold out so you have to get them inside asap I use a cricket container to hold them since they can't fly they tend to climb into the tubes it makes it easier to feed them. I like to have 2 containers so that between shipments i can clean out the containers without having to deal with them.
  
  ​
  
  Hope this helps :D

To answer the bonus question, yes, definitely get a timer. They're inexpensive and make the lighting management very easy. I got this two-pack from Amazon (one for my basking light and one for the UVB tube) and they've worked great for several months now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WQIDHY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It is this guy I found on Amazon the other day. It's made of styrofoam and held up by strong magnets. Super neat! I like it a lot and so does the dragon!

The breeder may have been referencing these: Sylvania Lighting BR30 65w 120-volt Indoor Flood Bulb, 6-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JH0YOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SEECybV25JQJ7

Just don't buy them on Amazon, lol. I love Amazon, but dear god when it comes to lightbulbs and I'm not buying them in bulk, they're so pricey! Walmart has the GE version of these which is what I use.

This is my hydrometer/themometer: this

Water bowls in larger tanks are normally ok. Some dragons like to soak. Keep in mind to watch humidity.

I made my own! It’s easy and you can make large ones for a decent price. Get rocks from outside and was them in hot soapy water, spray with a 50/50 water bleach. Rinse very very well. Let air dry.

Get wood from outside. Large prices can be soaked in 50/50 bleach water or 75/25 bleach to water. Rinse well. Let air dry.

Smaller pieces can be baked in the oven. I did 350 for an hour then 450 for 15 minutes. Watch closely to make sure nothing burns.

Lighting and tank sound good. Dubias are a great staple but I suggest mixing it up a little.

You have your supplements?

Hello congrats!

On the topic of bowls I usually only have my beardies salad bowl in the tank. My reasons I live in FL and humidity here is kinda hard to keep low so instead I give mine a bath everyday in declorinated water. He poops in it too.

For my flooring I use reptile carpet with a paper towel in his poop corner cuz he poops twice a day.


My beardie loves to climb hes around 3 and a half months I have logs and hammocks and he approved.


As for the thermometer hydrometer... I have a temperature gun and I recently bought a digital hydrometer because they are better than the reptile ones the one I got was a pack a two for each side of the tank recommended to me by a fellow redditor.

Here's the link:

ThermoPro TP53 Hygrometer Humidity Gauge Indicator Digital Indoor Thermometer Room Temperature and Humidity Monitor with Touch Backlight https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B079N98K93/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4HakDb6ECRKJG

you want to be getting two thermostats https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Electronic-Temperature-Germination-Controlling/dp/B01486LZ50(one for each tank) like this one, as well as a tub uvb bulb like the one i linked above, for uvb. you will also need to get a second 75 gallon tank for the second beardie, as well as a heater and uvb for them as well.
i can itemise this if you want.

You can also do these smart outlets. I haven't been able to get them and try them out yet but we've got 3 different tanks that we'd really like to get setup with timers. I like these because they're a lot smaller than the timer ones. BUT they are more expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D8QD1GX/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A1HERBDQAYIZY1&psc=1


Here's some single socket ones I was looking at too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D52KB3G/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A353J3EWSHAT10&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HXM5UAC/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1RUFFFCQ74BCW&psc=1

I use one of these to regulate my heating pads. Allows you to set a 1 degree differential. It’s a little pricey but super worth it to never have to worry about your heating pad going on the fritz and heating out of control

I'd recommend a digital temperature gauge with a probe or a temp gun. The temp gun would most likely be best. Downside is temp guns are a bit expensive sometimes but their worth it in the long run.

https://www.amazon.com/ANGGO-Non-contact-Temperature-Thermometer-Precisely/dp/B01FYVEJMY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1527639624&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=temp+gun&psc=1

This is the temp gun I use but it seems to be currently out of stock.

However this one should be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY/ref=sr_1_3?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1527639624&sr=1-3&keywords=temp+gun

As far as UVB goes I'd get this bulb and fixture for both of the beardies. It will probably be a bit bigger than their current tanks but it'll save money when you have to upgrade each of them to 75 gallons at the very least as that is the minimum for full grown beardies. Although 4x2x2 is preferred. Do note 20 gallons only last a beardie until 6 months of age and then they must be moved to their final enclosure or a 40, 50 or 55 gallon. If you go with the grow out tanks then those will last another 6 months before you need the final enclosure since preferably you want them moved into the final enclosure at 12 months.

https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-T5HO-Standard-Fixture-Reflector/dp/B01B209YQC/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1523586973&sr=1-5&keywords=t5+ho+fixture

\^ 34" T5 HO Fixture

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26062-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HKO/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00AQU8HKO&pd_rd_r=ZNH52XHETCP3Y7K5FGA2&pd_rd_w=GIi1G&pd_rd_wg=oAEwd&psc=1&refRID=ZNH52XHETCP3Y7K5FGA2&dpID=31QDwNV8eSL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

\^ 34" T5 HO 10.0

15-16 on and 8-9 off. Usually when you wake up and go to bed. But I got busy and invested in a timer. They're often cheaper at a hardware store and the pet store timers are usually overpriced (worked at Petsmart). With the thermometer I really don't like the little analog ones like this. Digital is passable but often they are off by a few degrees. Your best bet is an infrared one, they're reasonably priced but not all pet stores have them. With thermometers you get what you pay for so its up to you and your wallet.

Will your mother let you keep [roaches] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nedCYxxfd5g)? They live longer than crickets do, are easier to take care of, do not make as much noise, and do not smell as bad as crickets do. It takes a few months to get a colony started but once you have a colony you never have to buy feeder insects again.


Instead of buying cricket feed, if you have a feed store nearby you can feed your insects a mixture of chicken feed, calcium, and fish food. You mainly want to feed the insects a diet that is high in protein so dry dog or cat food will also do for feeding insects.

For moisture you can cut up potatoes and toss those in the bin or you can buy [water crystals] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051V22VS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) One package will last you a while, can just put a couple of spoonfuls of the crystals into a clean empty milk jug and fill it with water. These crystals allow your feeder insects to drink water without drowning.

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Cricket-Pen-Size/dp/B0073KOGOG/ref=br_lf_m_ww83k73y62454pn_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=pet-supplies is my favorite of the 2 I use. They only say for 100 but we have done a bit over 250 and almost none died they just crawl like 40-50 in each of 4 tubes and then rest at bottom. You wouldn't be able to keep 250 all the time but we buy them that many and after a day or 2 it's down to more manageable numbers

I hope these links help to the basics you will need. Everything else is just personal preference. But all together about 400.

http://www.petsmart.com/reptile/supplies/habitats-and-decor/terrariums/exo-terra-reptile-terrarium-15040.html

http://t.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-terrarium-hood-36-l#

http://t.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zoo-med-repti-basking-spot-lamp-value-pack-100-watts#

http://t.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zoo-med-reptisun-100-uvb-t5-ho-lamp#

http://t.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/flukers-clamp-lamp-with-dimmer#

https://www.lllreptile.com/products/10824-small-bamboo-root-jungle-gym

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004PBB1JE/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486446181&sr=sr-1&keywords=Zoo+med

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digital-Terrarium-Thermometer/dp/B000MD3MFA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1486446243&sr=1-1&keywords=zoo+med+digital+thermometer

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMI632G?ref_=ams_ad_dp_asin_1

Please go over the Care Guide and pay particular attention to the temperature and lighting requirements. Tube UVBs and good thermometers are a must as light and heat drive all aspects of her metabolism especially appetite.

Has your vet not given you Carnivore Care food? You can buy it yourself and force feed- have one of the techs show you how.
But review your temperatures first- if that basking spot is not 105-110ºF she won't have an appetite no matter what you do.

I'd also try black soldier fly larvae- they are small and easy to eat.
Stop the fruit- the sugar isn't good for her gut when she is healthy, never mind after meds.
Get some Bene-Bac probiotic gel instead- the meds destroy the gut flora and they feel crummy. This will fix that.
Reptaid wouldn't hurt either.

Walmart doesn’t sell uvb lights, but you can get them on amazon for very cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QFROMQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542613444&sr=8-2&keywords=uvb+reptile+light+18+inch&dpPl=1&dpID=516RwVfneQL&ref=plSrch

I’m on mobile, but I usually get them for under 15, but you want something like this.

amazon :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ID29KE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Magnaturals 37096 Rock Ledge Extra Strength Magnets, Large, Mojave https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003712U1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y.fOBb43P1FMP got it from here. They have magnets that you put on the outside of the tank so you can put it were you want.

Technically you're supposed to purchase it from a vet (and obviously if other insects don't work you'll probably need to visit one) but it's also available on Amazon - this is what I use. I still use it every once in a blue moon - like last month when we had -20 temperatures for a week and the crickets were delayed.

It's a hammock lol. Here's my dragon using it and here it is sold on amazon

Try getting a repti-hammock to expand vertically. This is the large size and takes up about 1/3 of my 40 gal breeder, it should be big enough for your guy. I haven't had any real issues with the suction cups coming off either, and they're replaceable if you do.

If that doesn't work out, there are different slurries you can buy off Amazon. When we adopted Oscar, our leopard gecko, his little eyes were crusted shut from a failed shed due to the previous owners not taking proper care of him. We had to drop the slurry on his snout a little at a time, and the little guy would lick it off. It's pretty inexpensive. Oxbow Carnivore Care Pet Supplement, 2.5-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006H38VZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1HVDCbNTDZEQY

Local reptile shop near me, this is is the product:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Hammock-17-Inch/dp/B0002AQDKO

I've never checked the temps, but maybe a medical heating pad? We use this as our beardie doesn't like heat on his belly.