Best products from r/BeginnerWoodWorking

I'm still a bit of a beginner and I've been working with a lot of the tools my dad has along with building my own set of tools and wood stock.

Here's my mid-range/semi-dream version but it's tools I work with every day:

Probably a bit controversial, but consider picking up a radial arm saw. You can find these used fairly easily and with a little TLC they'll be in great working order. These saws can do everything a miter saw can do with a bit more ease in my opinion. My dad has had his Craftsman since the '70s and is running like a champ. You can check out my thread on it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/7m0w22/any_radial_arm_saw_love/

I will say, you can't go wrong with a quality miter saw though. Get a dual bevel compound miter saw and there's nothing you can't make. My RAS can do this but requires a bit of set-up and isn't necessarily the most efficient.
Look at Dewalt, Makita, and Rigid for these. They'll be at a higher price point, but a Makita Miter Saw might just outlive you (my dad's Miter saw is older than me and still cutting through just about everything with ease).

As for sanders, I highly recommend picking up a Dewalt random orbit sander. I started with my dad's old makita palm sander but the orbital sander makes leagues of difference both in hand fatigue and speed of sanding.

While I recently picked up an impact driver, you honestly do not need one to start off with. Unless you find a deal on a drill/impact driver combo then skip it until you have a job that'll require a lot of driving.
Another point on this, when you buy a battery operated tool, stick with the brand as much as possible. Every company has their own rechargeable battery pack and mix and matching is a pain in the butt!

For a budget, Ryobi works great. Rigid is a step above that. If you feel like going for a higher quality, I'm a huge proponent of Milwaukee drills, impact drivers, sawzalls, etc. I've been using a Milwaukee M18 drill for awhile now and it hasn't let me down one bit.

Probably the next thing you'll need is clamps. Let me just tell you that you can't ever have enough clamps! Harbor Freight sells these phenomenal bar clamps that are amazing for any budget, really these things are awesome. Paul Sellers has a video on these as well as some improvements that can be made to them, too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyKiGmRq3wY
You're also going to want some C clamps. Something sturdy and a cast design. Any time I make a jig for cross cuts or need to hold something to my bench I rely on C clamps or a small set of bar clamps.

Next up, you'll want a good chisel set. I have the four piece Irwin chisel set that comes with three chisels and a mallet and you can't find a better deal for the money. Chisels are great because you can use them to create decorative aspects to a project, flush up an edge, smooth a surface, add a chamfer, etc.

Routers are great, but you really don't need one when you're starting out. Even then, I would say it's worthwhile to get a compact router like a Rigid or Makita for your first one because it's easy to use, you can use it for carving, decorative edges, flush cuts, etc. I have a full sized Porter Cable but I kind of wish I started with a compact router.
The downside of these is that routers can get expensive real quick with the bits and jigs and a table.

If you plan on working with sheet goods, you can't get by without a Skilsaw. I have a Makita Skilsaw that my dad used to basically build the home I grew up in, but I highly recommend going for the Skilsaw brand: https://www.amazon.com/5280-01-15-Amp-4-Inch-Circular-Single/dp/B01BD81BLO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518905277&sr=8-2&keywords=skilsaw
That link is for a budget Skilsaw, but if you have the funds a Skilsaw Wormdrive will probably outlive you if you treat it right!

For dust collection, you could for for a Rigid Wet/Dry Vaccuum. These guys are powerhouses and I've used them for dust collection and even dealing with flooded basements. Home Depot has a huge selection of these, I would go for the midrange option. I have a 12 gallon Rigid and it's perfect for everything I need it for. Alternatively, you could also use an electric leaf blower, which is what I started with to blow out my shop, but this isn't too good for the lungs.

Safety glasses, ear protection, and a decent dust mask are all musts. I use a 3M respirator for any sanding or heavy sawing on my RAS. I prefer this over the disposable paper masks because it's a little less stuffy and easier to wear.

Now here's the budget version:

For about $200 you can have a tool kit that'll just about do everything the above tools can do and it might teach some better fundamentals regarding woodworking than if you start withy all power tools:https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrnohP1V87nCxxFaIJwc6PuvlhqThL0c1

That's a video series from YouTuber Wranglerstar and I really enjoy the videos he puts out. I don't think he's always the most relatable for all audiences, but he really puts out quality content, especially in regards to woodworking. The series I linked to covers some of the tools above, but bundles together a budget build of tools you can use to accomplish just about any woodworking project. Definitely worth the watch!


Lastly, I think your first build should be a workbench custom built to the size of your shop. Run it along the wall, maybe. Now, you can do this with just pine 2x4's and you'll have something extremely sturdy, durable, and cheap. You can laminate 2x4's along their width for a thick top surface, or you can purchase some MDF or plywood and use 2x4s as a frame and the plywood as a work surface.

Let me know if you have any questions! I'll be glad to help!

Here are the basics, I will edit if I think of any more essential tools, but you can go an awfully long way with these.

Hand Tools:

• Hand saw- I prefer Japanese style pull saws, meaning they cut on the pull stroke. My go to utility saw is a Vaughn bear saw, which is a robust package, with several types of interchangeable blades. There are countless types of saws, for different uses, but a fine toothed Japanese saw will get you by for most things.
  
  
• Combination square- A sliding ruler square, perfect for marking and layout. you will also want a speed square eventually, so you might as well get one.
  
  
• Tape measure- Start with a basic 25' tape, and get more as needed.
  
  
• Basic chisel set- Most of the entry grade chisels are pretty much the same, this Irwin set is a pretty good buy. to start with a set of 1/4", 1/2", and 1" are all you really need, but you can never have enough chisels.
  
  
• Block plane- A low angle block plane will get you a long ways breaking corners and trimming pieces. Stanley makes a great, affordable, option. As time goes by you will need a jack plane, but a block plane will do for now.
  
  
• Sharpening equipment- A fine diamond stone like this will get you a long way keeping your chisels and plane sharp. You should do research into sharpening methods as you use your tools more, and build a system that fits you.
  
  
• Hammer- A cheap smooth face hammer. Build a wooden mallet as a starter project.
  
  
• Clamps- You always need more clamps. Big clamps. Small clamps. Weird clamps. I like bar clamps. Harbour Freight has good deals on fair clamps, but don't expect too much out of them. To start with get a couple with ~8" throat, and a couple with ~18" throat.
  
  Power Tools:
  
  
• Cordless drill- If you're willing to spend the money for a good, reliable, tool I recommend Makita, but a Ryobi or Rigid will serve you well if you're just working on small projects. Everyone has their favourite cordless tool brand, and, for the most part, it really is just preference. I highly recommend adding an impact driver and circular saw to whichever system you choose.
  
  
• Circular Saw- If you want to work with plywood or larger sticks, you will want a circular saw, which is the most basic power saw. Most of the major tool companies make fine starter saws, Skil is the original, and is quite cheap, but there are plenty of others, browse a store and see what takes your fancy.
  
  
• Jig saw- A jig saw is used for cutting curves, and you will eventually need it if you build enough things. I prefer Bosch but there are cheaper options. See what feels right to you.
  
  
• Miter saw- You don't need this right away, but if you start doing more projects you will want one. I recommend going right to a sliding compound miter saw, like this Dewalt. You will never need more miter saw than that, and if you get a small one you will eventually end up buying a the real deal.
  
  
• Table saw- Again, you don't need this right away, but eventually you will feel you need the precision and ease that a table saw brings. The Rigid portable table saw is a great saw if you're working in tight quarters and need to pack up, but you'll appreciate the appreciate the stability of a cast iron topped cabinet saw if you have the cash and space for it.
  
  Misc:
  
  
• Drill bits- Get a cheap twist drill set that goes from 1/16" to 1/2" and a basic spade bit set. Later you will want a set of forstners and hole saws.
  
  
• Utility knife
  
  
• Driver bits
  

1.) I would advise not using glue on the table top, but instead screws. Your table top will get dinged up over time. If you glue it, it will be hard to replace the top. But if you use screws. It will just be as easy as removing the screws, remove the top, and screw on the new one.

2.) For your router lift. May look at something like StumpyNubs' Design. This may be more secure than using a scissor jack that your plans call for.

3.) Beef up your legs, 2x4s are fine, but if you place two 2x4s together, than your legs are going to be more sturdy, or switch to just straight up 4x4s. Nevermind, looking at your plans again, I see you have done that.

4.) Look at using plywood that already has a finish on it, like Melamine, this will make the wood coming off the tablesaw, or across the router easier to slide. Otherwise, you will want to wax your outfeed table at least every other month or so, depending on storage and use.

5.) You also want to make sure that you include the ability to use a fence on the router side. Either a custom built one or look at some aftermarket fences.

6.) Make sure to shorten the legs enough so you can add in casters, ideally something like these. It will make moving the bench around easier.

7.) You will want to place runners under your bottom shelf to help support weight.

How about another way of gaining table top space? I have explored the idea of using that same worktable as a desk and 24" depth is a bit shallow for a tradition computer gear on it. I'm assuming you have a keyboard, monitor and mouse on the desktop, but what about attaching the monitors to a flexible arm the attaches to the back edge of the desk.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Premium-Single-Monitor-Stand/dp/B00MIBN16O/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=monitor+arm&qid=1563223059&s=electronics&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=1-3

That way you gain all the space the the monitor stand takes up and can slide the keyboard back a bit for forearm resting space.

Or attach a forearm rest to the front of the desk, https://www.amazon.com/Pauner-Forearm-Support-Better-Keyboard/dp/B01CD4K0OQ

​

Basically the tabletop is heavy duty and great to use, and without enough tools, there aren't a lot of great solutions to fabricate new or additional space.

I got rubber plugs from Amazon, I think. I'll go look at my order history.


Though maybe it was a medical-supply place.


Nope, it was Amazon. Mine is bigger, but maybe this will lead you to another size. I had to buy a pack, not a single plug.


Try the word "stopper"


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VLYWWS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Here: This one ranges from 26mm (1 inch = 25.4mm) at its widest to 19mm (it might just fit pretty flush, unless it compresses enough to go through the hole). This is a "size 4."


At that link there is a chart to stopper sizes, which might help you buy a single plug somewhere an industrial or scientific supply place, if you can get to one.

You can use a clear acrylic spray. I have used such things on top of paint and on bare wood before. They work pretty well. Something like this (although I haven't used this particular one)

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-K01303007-Acrylic-Crystal-11-Ounce/dp/B00023JE7K/ref=sr_1_2?crid=30K139CPKTBES&keywords=clear+acrylic+spray&qid=1556910026&s=gateway&sprefix=clear+acrylic%2Caps%2C399&sr=8-2

Excellent start. Highly recommend getting some rising casters to get it off the wheels when you can.

https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-17000-Workbench-Caster-Pack/dp/B00SX3T2LO

Gives you a more solid structure than sitting on the wheels :)

I don't know anything about dowels, but if the OP is talking about the need to drill perpendicular holes, I just picked up this jig and I like it so far for general woodworking:

Milescraft 1312 DrillBlock

​

There's another style that might be more precise for dowels since you can buy more bushing sizes. For example:

Dowel drill bit guide

​

And if you need more angles than just 90 degrees, there are hand drill guides like this one:

Milescraft 1318 Drillmade drill guide

​

Edit: I don't necessarily recommend the specific models in the 2nd and 3rd links. They were just the first examples I came across.

Instead of locking casters you can get some leveling casters as well. You can level and lock your bench in place with them. A bit expensive but definitely worth it.

​

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-Machine-Leveling-Caster-Mounted/dp/B0039ZIPL4

Check out a pocket jig kit. They are about $40 on Amazonhttps://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W?th=1&psc=1
Add a drill, some wood glue, and a few clamps and you can build a nice flat desk that shouldn't buckle or warp. bottem of my desk.

Good luck

There are some kinds of aftermarket splitter-style solutions.

Like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/SPLITTER-Safety-Splitter-Alternative-Clearance/dp/B00L7KT6PM

I don't know how good that thing is in practice. Certainly not as good as a real solid riving knife/bladeguard combination, but maybe much better than nothing.

Without a riving knife, it's very easy to have horrible accidents.

Just a second of letting attention slip and the wood goes flying and maybe drags your hand into the blade.

With a riving knife and blade guard, you basically have to push your hand actively into the blade from the front.

Which happens, of course, but much less frequently then the kind of kickback-induced accidents that are so frequent without riving knives.

​

​

I got this for Christmas. It’s plans for a ton of really small projects. Not a lot of “here’s how you use a miter saw” stuff in here. For that I’d recommend YouTube. But this book would give you a good set of projects. If you want some YouTube channel suggestions let me know. I’ve bookmarked tons of videos for certain topics that I go to when I have questions. Helps me weed through all the crap I’ve watched but didn’t get anything from. The Big Book of Weekend Woodworking: 150 Easy Projects (Big Book of ... Series) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1579906001/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s72BCbPBKC6DZ

Something like this (https://www.amazon.ca/Milescraft-1318-DrillMate-Drill-Guide/dp/B014A1Z92I/ref=asc_df_B014A1Z92I/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292949808887&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6187848914128197040&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000694&hvtargid=pla-437180793075&psc=1) would be cheaper but would drill straighter holes than free handing it

Have you considered a drill guide block like the drillblock? Mine works pretty well and was cheap to boot. It has metal bushings to guide the bit straight. Only thing I don't like is that it stands about an inch tall so if you are drilling deep, you have to follow up with the old drill against the quick square.

drillblock on amazon

These work great. Literally had a dresser tip over once with someone hanging on it and it still didn't fall over.

https://www.amazon.com/Hangman-Anti-Tip-Kit-Furniture-Prevention/dp/B000VW7WBC

Something like this?

Drill press is obviously the best answer, but if one isn't available and you're strapped for cash, this will work: https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1312-Drill-Block/dp/B00F1ZJFZK

The joint book is what your looking for. I just picked it up and am itching for chisels so I can start to play.