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> Thanks for the reply! The bowlingball.com scale helps a lot when comparing different manufacturers.

Pleasure! And yes, it does. I've found it's pretty dang accurate so it's helpful for comparing apples to oranges (or C300 to Roto Grip, but you get the point haha)

EDIT I'd go with 15# if I were you. No real reason to be throwing 16# unless you just throw everything else 25mph or something lol

> Would you recommend going with a symmetric core?

Yes, I would definitely recommend a symmetric core for your first ball. It won't be as flashy as an asym, but will also be a bit easier to control and work well as a ball to build around as you expand your arsenal.

> I have looked at the Storm Rocket Ship and am considering that one but will definitely talk to the pro shop next time I go. I have a friend who has the Storm Code Black which I tossed a few times and liked; do you think that would be harder to control due to its core?

I actually had a chance to throw the Rocket Ship, Code Black, and a bunch of other stuff at a Storm/RG demo day last week (write-up is here). The RS would be a fantastic ball to get - I'd also take a look at the new Motiv Chronic Paranoia (releases today, IIRC) and the Ebonite GB2 MVP. The Code Black is an awesome ball as well, but it's a bit more specialized - it definitely has a much more violent reaction due to the polished pearl reactive coverstock and asymmetric core.

> Regarding the finish on the balls and how long they will last: I have read people saying they have had a ball "die" and stop hooking after several games. Any tips on a type of ball that would be less prone to this, or does it just require proper cleaning?

Usually it's more like several hundred games, but yeah proper maintenance is key. This is the maintenance schedule that I follow for all of my reactive gear:

• every shot: wipe off with some sort of towel (I personally use a leather pad like this one, but a microfiber shop towel works too if you want to save a few $$$).
  
  
• after every bowling session: clean everything with a specifically made bowling ball cleaner. I personally use That Purple Stuff, which is on the pricey side but works better than anything else I've used. Tack-Up is another great option.
  
  
• Every (40ish for sanded gear, 60ish for shiny) games: resurface on a ball spinner. This helps to keep fresh coverstock in contact with the lane, leading to a better ball reaction. Also, sanded balls get an effect called "Lane Shine", where the sanded texture essentially wears off after repeated use.
  
  

• Every 75ish games or as needed: have my PSO run the ball through his Jayhawk Detox machine. This is an ultrasonic deep-cleaner machine that does a great job of extracting oil. Brings a ball back to truly like-new performance levels.
  

  
  

  Doing this, I have several hundred games on a few balls in my bag (Ebonite GB2 MVP, Track Paradox Pearl, Motiv Graffiti Tag) and they're still going strong with no signs of quitting. :)
  

  
  

  > Without knowing much about cover stocks in general, to me it seems like a ball with a polished coat like the Code Black would be easier to clean the oil off than the matte ones, but I have been unable to find anything on that.
  

  
  

  No, not really. If you use a dedicated ball cleaner, this isn't something to worry about.
  

  
  

  > When shooting spares I usually get a house ball and chuck it straight at the pin. I was planning on picking up a T-Zone or Ice Storm to carry as my own spare ball for more consistency and so I could have a proper fit.
  

  
  

  YES absolutely. 100% recommend this for anybody.
  

  
  

  > Would you recommend getting the same drill dimensions and weight as my strike ball? I usually throw a lighter house ball because due to the finger placement on house balls I don't have as much control over the heavy ones.
  

  
  

  Same weight, same drilling measurements, same everything. The fit & weight should be identical across everything in your bag.
  

  
  

  > Also is plastic the way to go just to pick up straight shots or would it be worth investing in something like the Pitch Black or BTU which could posisbly be more versatile? From what I have read so far, plastic should hook less but can slide where urethane will have a nicer roll but may hook down lane.
  

  
  

  Your assessment of plastic vs urethane is correct, and honestly comes down to personal preference. I generally recommend plastic for most bowlers.
  

  
  

  )

> What's the best way to clean them?

A spray cleaner like this or this would work for a basic clean up, but the balls may need a full detox and resurface at a pro shop depending on their condition. With 30 balls, I'd probably just clean them up with a spray cleaner and let the future owners have the resurface done when they plug and re-drill them. (See below)

> Anything I should check for besides cracks?

Cracks and big divots in the surface of the ball are the big ones. Minor scrapes and scratches can be worked out at the pro shop when the new owner has the ball plugged and re-drilled.

> I think they may have custom finger holes. Anything I can do about that?

If any of the balls get sold (depending on age/condition, many of them may not be worth the hassle), the new owner would need to take the balls to a local pro shop and have them fill in the holes (known as plugging) and then redrill to their hand's measurements. Nothing for you to do about that.

> I notice a lot of these balls have another hole besides the three finger holes. What is the purpose of it?

You're referring to a balance hole/weight hole. You can read more about them here.

> What's the best way to sell? eBay? Craigslist? Bowling forum?

Like anything else, take lots of pictures and try to be as detailed as possible about the specifics (brand, model, etc.) Many of the balls may not be worth anything, so it could be a diminishing rate of return. I think you can post for sale items here as long as you don't spam the boards. Might be worth checking with the mods to be sure. Craigslist would be another good option. Ebay also.

I'd love to see pictures of what you've got just out of curiosity.

You're gonna go through some ups and downs. The ups are great, but the downs can really mess you up.

Here are some tips from me:

Work on your spares. Picking up your spares make all the difference. When you can practice, use a significant amount of time on the harder spare shots (10 for a righty, 7 for lefty).

Stretch. I like to get a good stretch session out before league night. The legs, groin, chest, arm, and shoulder should all get worked over a bit before getting out there.

Get a routine. Whether it's something you do on the approach, or something you think about while standing up there. For me, I have the same routine I follow on every shot, and then I sing a song inside my head while starting my approach. Helps me to focus.

Find your mark and hit it every time. Unless you're a lucky dog and was born left handed, you will likely have to make adjustments as the game goes on, but don't let that affect you too much. Don't take your eyes off where the ball needs to go.

If you've thrown a few bad balls and you're getting heated, take a little walk. Just walk from one end of the alley and back. Try not to dwell on the last throws and just focus on the next one.

This book called "Bowling: How to Master the Game" by Parker Bohn was a very good resource for me when I first came back to the game. It gives you not only delivery and strategy, but helps with many mental aspects of the game as well. There are many tips and advice that I've used to help adapt my game. Check it out at your local library or whatever.

Finally, relax. It's just a game. Don't take it too serious. If it feels like work, then you're doing it wrong.

If it is rubbing you raw on a certain side, your PSO can also use a tool like this or a rasp to remove material from just that side. I already know any time I get a thumbhole drilled that I need a little taken out on the left side of the hole, and the saddle at the front beveled a bit. .

Since your issue is on the side of your thumb and not the back, I don't suspect it's from gripping the ball, but I have been wrong many times before on educated internet guesses.

I also like to take some really fine sandpaper (I keep strips of 2000-grit in my bag) to get the inside of the hole nice and smooth, and put a piece of grip tape (or two or five) in the front of the hole.

Given your flair, I'm guessing you're a newer bowler, it may take you some time to find your favorite fit and feel, but if you can't figure out how to get out of it cleanly enough to avoid injury, you might have your PSO watch a few shots and see if they think moving the thumbhole position or changing the pitch might help. Especially if it's your first ball, getting the thumb perfect is a challenging thing to do.

• I’d recommend a three ball bag. They are a little pricey up front but typically it’ll allow you to bring two reactive balls and your spare ball of choice. You can go to your pro shop to buy it or because of our neat little overlords at amazon you can get one there.
  
• Brunswick Crown Triple Tote with Shoe Pouch Bowling Bag, Royal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H47D0J4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GUHgDbKWKNH0H
  
• Pyramid Path Triple Tote Roller Plus Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LZBH560/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rWHgDbJEYXCFS
  
• Hammer Triple Bowling Ball Tote with Removable Pouch, Black/Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O0H7BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QWHgDbEP9KP3R
  
• The ones above all have an above pouch for your shoes. If you don’t want that extra pouch and already have something to carry your shoes in and just want like a three ball tournament tote here are some good options:
  
• Hammer Premium Triple Tote Bowling Bag, Black/Carbon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721R38VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xYHgDbVT8C618
  
• Vise Three Ball Tote Roller Bowling Bag, Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EREJF74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LYHgDbP1B7876
  
• Hammer Premium Triple Tote Bowling Bag, Black/Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SE5LWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0YHgDbW2VKGX3
  
• DV8 Tactic Triple Tote No Shoe Pouch Bowling Bag, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H65W0K4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mZHgDbXZE4AJX
  
• sorry if I gave way to many options I just wanted to diversify it a bit with different colors and stuff depending on what you may have wanted. There are even more options on amazon besides these if these don’t suit what you want.

Dealt with a wrist problem that ended up in surgery here:

1. Are you sure your ball fits correctly? after 4-5 years of inactivity, definitely need to have grip checked by a professional. An incorrect fit can cause all kinds of issues.
   
2. If the above is good, do not ignore the wrist pain, I waited to long. see a qualified hand/wrist Dr.
   
3. I dropped down from 16 to 15 because of this and it was helpful.
   
4. I had my PSO "relax" my grip before I ultimately ended up with a partial wrist fusion surgery.
   
5. Tried a brace prior to surgery which helped some. https://www.amazon.com/McDavid-Elastic-Wrist-Support-Medium/dp/B0000AU1ZX/ref=asc_df_B0000AU1ZX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309760615398&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14056218406979525327&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018801&hvtargid=pla-422937106462&psc=1
   
6. Ended up with this brace before and after surgery which helped as well , similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Mongoose-Optimum-bowling-Support-Medium/dp/B00IK1902A/ref=asc_df_B00IK1902A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167133777536&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10940306235034529195&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9018801&hvtargid=pla-309677451016&psc=1
   
7. Good luck, PM me if you have additional questions

here is some good ball at good prices. pending on how much it cost to get it drilled in your area it should be within that price range, amazon also has the lower end stuff under$70, if you have prime then it's a good deal. my son just picked up the original track tactix for $88 at amazon and that ball is well worth the price.

https://smile.amazon.com/Roto-Grip-Idol-Bowling-Magenta-13lbs/dp/B07BBPQQWQ/ref=sr_1_104?fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1565300963&refinements=p_n_size_browse-bin%3A2637524011&rnid=2637519011&s=sports-and-fitness&sr=1-104

https://smile.amazon.com/Radical-Bowling-Intel-Pearl-13/dp/B07DR2LP7G/ref=sr_1_145?fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1565301023&refinements=p_n_size_browse-bin%3A2637524011&rnid=2637519011&s=sports-and-fitness&sr=1-145

If like tennis shoe style these are awesome entry level shoes I can swear by. Super comfortable. - https://www.amazon.com/KR-Strikeforce-M-032-090-Flyer-Bowling/dp/B01CRPRI0U

If you drag your non slide foot the toe cap wont last long. These are basically the old Brunswick TPU-X shoe that I have. I almost went through the toe cap in like 2 months. I ruin all my bowling shoes but never anywhere this fast. I now wear the removable dexter toe cap on it since they basically look brand new except the toe guard and they are super comfortable shoes.

https://www.amazon.com/Dexter-Powerstep-Traction-Sole-Medium/dp/B004XG5NTU/ref=asc_df_B004XG5NTU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193133192523&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14796870004048169475&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012055&hvtargid=pla-314969078801&psc=1

​

I think the 9s have a replaceable toe cap now. Big thing to consider if you burn through shoes because of toe dragging like a lot of us.

​

KR Strikeforce made the TPU-X for Brunswick and makes the Forces for Hammer. Their version is under $100. https://www.cheapbowlingballs.com/KR-Raptor-Mens-Bowling-Shoes.aspx

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https://www.cheapbowlingballs.com/KR-Raptor-Mens-Wide-Bowling-Shoes.aspx

there are three standard outer diameter sizes for grips: 7/8", 31/32", and 1-1/32". the first and last are very rare; you have to have extremely tiny or extremely large fingers to need a grip in a size that only comes in those ODs so i wouldn't worry about it. 99% of bowlers use 31/32" grips.

the outside of the grip as well as the inside (at least on vise brand grips) will have a size on them so you can figure out what you need. the inside number (if there is one) will refer to the numerator in the fractional size, i.e. if it's an 11/32" grip it will say "11." on the outside it will list the full fractional size (ex. 11/32"), outer diameter (ex. 31/32"), as well as another number (ex. 4.5) that is intended to make buying grips easier/more convenient by making sizes go up in 0.5 increments from -1 so you don't have to remember the fractional size. in this handy chart it is referred to as "equivalent" and it is the same across all brands. i would just worry about the fractional size because you don't have to translate that to another numbering scheme; the size is the size.

because your PSO is so far away, i would recommend learning how to remove and install grips yourself. you will need a grip puller and glue. a work-out tool isn't completely necessary but i would recommend it for removing any remains from the grip left on the inside of the hole so that the next grip you put in fits true instead of being slightly more snug than it should be. a grip puller makes removing grips super simple and straightforward. for glue i suggest loctite ultra gel control. it will stay where you put it instead of running all over the place which makes mistakes less annoying and lets you be more precise. it also gives you a little more time to make any last-second corrections in grip orientation due to its slightly longer setting time.

hope this helps.

You can start with a simple wrist brace to help support your wrist. I've had wrist pain since high school and one like this give me enough support without affecting my throw.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JK7G72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wDuMDb795AMVQ

The other thing is of course to take it easy when you do start feeling pain. You dont want to develop a chronic injury you're going to have to deal with for the rest of your life.

The other thing is to think about getting your own ball. Having one that is drilled for your hand really helps because you are forced to grip as hard and relieves some of the stress on your hand and wrist. You could move up to a 12-14 lb easily with one that is drilled for you.

I can second this. I bought the one that akimbojimo229 recommended and was amazed at how well it pulls the oil off the ball. Almost like a sponge. https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-Pure-Bowling-Ball-Wipe/dp/B014YVXW00/ref=sr_1_36?dchild=1&keywords=leather+shammy&link_code=qs&qid=1570196315&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-36

I wore these before I got myself a nice pair. They are made so either a right hander or lefty can use them. I thought they were great for the price.

https://www.amazon.com/Storm-Volkan-Bowling-Shoes-White/dp/B01HDTL7CK/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=Storm+bowling+shoes+men&qid=1563223932&s=gateway&sr=8-11

Yea I'm thinking a polish could be a good start. I haven't found much feedback, but I'm wondering if something like this Motiv Power Gel would work well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003C33KKO

New shoes will take some getting used to. If you look at the bottom of rental shoes they are (almost always) entirely leather except for the heel. Most bowling shoes the slide portion is only on the sole of the foot ending just past the balls of your feet.

So if you learned to slide more whole-footed with rental shoes then you will get that catching feeling with your new shoes. You'll probably need to learn to slide more on your toes and ball of your foot.

An option that may help is a shoe slide. I've been bowling with a shoe slide because my shoes are too tacky. The shoe slide tends to cover more of the shoe and might help you not to catch. Though it may not help in the long run to become reliant on a shoe slide.
https://www.amazon.com/bowlingball-com-Shoe-Slider/dp/B004KQ75ZS/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1510862214&sr=1-1&keywords=shoe+slide

I have this one, works great for my Galaxy S7.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M9C9EVS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also drag my brake toe. This SST8 sole protects the toe of the shoe from wear and is definitely not coming off unless you want it off. http://www.amazon.com/Dexter-Max-Powerstep-Traction-Sole/dp/B009GDHBIQ
Side effect, it looks goofy.

How to Master the Game by Parker Bohn III is a good one. My brother taught himself the game with that book.

http://www.amazon.com/Bowling-Master-Parker-Bohn-III/dp/0789304945

I suggest trying one of these to develop your slide. Your knee will thank you later.

https://www.amazon.com/bowlingball-com-Shoe-Slider/dp/B004KQ75ZS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493157579&sr=8-2&keywords=shoe+slide

Repetition first. Try to take your mind off the actual stroke and let your body remember the motion. Don't try to increase speed or rotation with force. You're paying quite a bit for the ball. Let it do its job.

You could add triceps curls, dips, shoulder shrugs, crunches, and practice your drawback with your ball. The muscle building will stabilize that form for consistent releases.

I learned a bunch of this from Parker Bohn's book . I recommend it for its descriptions of the mechanics and mentality of bowling.

Bowling: How to Master the Game https://www.amazon.com/dp/0789304945/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IgZXzbAKF5CGA

So rubbing alcohol is a decent cleaner, people have been using it for a long time. The only thing is that it is not designed as a de-greaser and has a bit of trouble picking up the oil. It would be better than no cleaning at all but IMO not quite as good as a specific bowling cleaner.

My recommendation would be tac up

I have this:

http://www.amazon.com/Vise-Three-Roller-Bowling-Black/dp/B00EREJE9I/

You can add a shoe bag (that clips on to the roller tote) for about $25.

IMO you won't find anything better.

https://www.amazon.com/Dexter-Max-Powerstep-Traction-Sole/dp/B009GDHBIQ

get that. i destroyed the sole on my tpux and that's basically solved everything.