Best products from r/BudgetAudiophile

Someone yesterday asked about $200 speakers. I'll just copy and paste that here, but I'll change one thing. I recommend the fluance signature series if you're spending that much money. Also, save up and get a Dayton sub 1000. Enjoy:

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I'll make a list of stuff you need. For the best "bang for your buck" in the $200ish price range.

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Speaker wire. Amazon Basics makes great stuff. If you want, you can get 100 feet of it for an extra $2 I think. You can get those monoprice banana plugs if you want. They just help if you're going to be switching speakers around a lot.

Simple wire stripper. Should work just fine.

Cable to plug it in. That'll just plug the amp into a computer. And that cable is amazing quality. For real. I don't know what it is about it, but the moment I touched that cable I knew it was special. This isn't a joke either. You'll understand when you get one. Trust me.

50 watt per channel amp. This thing will be more than enough. I just like it because it is open box, so cheap. The same one new on amazon is $65. If you want to order from amazon, you can just get the smsl sa-36a. Same amp, just 20 watts per channel. Which, again, is plenty.

[Here's that cheaper smsl amp] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_U2NSBbTRHGFS5). I've got a few of them. They're great. This is what I'd go for if the other one is sold out.

Cheap but good little amp. I don't have one of these because I'm not a fan of the looks, but they get great reviews and a lot of people really like them.

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Speakers:

Miccas. These things are nice for that price. In this price range, you really won't be getting anything better unless you go DIY.

Fluance SX6. These guys are big, but they throw a good amount of sound and some pretty deep bass for a pair of bookshelf speakers. Careful, they're pretty big.

Pioneer. These things are decent, but I think the Fluances would be better for this price. The SX6s throw more bass, which is good if you're not getting a sub. However, these are smaller.

Fluance signature series. I know, you said your budget is only $200, but you said if you need to spend more, then you will. These will sound better than all of the other speakers linked, however, that's not why they're here. I put them here for two reasons. The first is that they're front ported. Most people that are new to speakers might put them up against a wall or close to it, not understanding that the port needs some room to breathe. These have front ports so that's not a problem. The second reason, just look at them. If you really care about looks, these ones are the ones. They're beautiful. (My opinion obviously).

Oof almost forgot. Pleaae don't place the speakers directly on your desk.

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That's a lot. I'll sum it up with my opinion and why.

Amp: smsl sa36a. For close range, you don't need anything with more power. This thing will do whatever you need for bookshelf speakers.

Speakers: micca mb42x. Why? Here's why: for this price range, you won't notice a huge difference in any speakers, unless you get some bad ones. So, get the cheapest ones you can. Later on, if you can afford to upgrade them, you'll probably want to do that. Then you'll have a pair of $80 speakers that you don't need rather than a pair of 130 speakers that you don't need. Another reason I would pick the miccas is because they punch above their price range. Most people say they sound more like a pair of $125 speakers rather than a pair of $80 speakers. So, for real, they're good. Also, they're the smallest of the bunch.

Or, build a pair of C Notes and get something way better than any of these.

Hope this helps!

These have been getting some good user reviews lately and a nice price too, and a pretty small cabinet for a 6.5 inch woofer, 79.99 / pair: 2 Pack 6.5" Bookshelf Home Theater Speakers 100W RMS TP160S-CH DCM by MTX Audio

As for amp's I have two of these (on two different computer systems), Dayton Audio APA 150. This is a serious Class A/B design topology, but no frills, just a well built, serious, "old school" heavy amp. No remote, no DAC, no Bluetooth, but WOW, a really nice, serious, amp! Lots of good user reviews and recommendations all over the net.

A often recommended smaller digital amp S.M.S.L AD18. This one DOES have it all, remote, DAC, bluetooth, relatively small, great reviews all over the net.

If you are really on a budget, try something similar to Lepai LP-2020TI Digital Hi-Fi Audio Mini Class D Stereo Amplifier. Do some searches for tweaking this amp, a very simple way to improve this amp, is to buy a more powerful power brick. There are many versions of this type of amp, amazon, ebay, parts-express, look around.

The other two, often recommended, "great value" speakers that work well with a computer (but you will need an amp), are the Sony SSCS5 3-Way 3-Driver Bookshelf Speaker System (Pair). I have seen these on sale for well under 100/pair, from memory, in the 60's and 70's.

Another great value is the Pioneer SP-BS22-LR Andrew Jones Designed Bookshelf Loudspeakers(7-1/8” x 12-9/16” x 8-7/16” & weighs 9 lbs 2 oz). Again, search around, these do go on sale for well under 100.00.

I have both the Pioneer and the Sony, and I currently am using the Sony SSCS5 with the Dayton Audio Amp. Was temped to buy the DCM, but I have to stop buying "great value" speakers. If I ever want to upgrade my computer speakers, I should save up and buy the Ascend Audio Luna Reference Ribbon Mini-Monitor.

Good luck, have fun, and Enjoy!

I agree that we need more info, but I'll suggest a pair of the Dayton Audio SUB-1500, added to some full range speakers and a used HT receiver. A good alternative would be to DIY the sub or subs - the VBSS (Value Buster Subwoofer System) is probably a good choice.

But others are correct, if not done carefully, the bass may be irritating to others, and if the venue is too large, these may even be insufficient.

Edit - I managed to skip a good chunk of your questions:

For a home sound system that will work for your party, you'll need:

• A 2 channel amplifier, or better yet a Home Theater receiver. Decent used receivers can be had for under $100. The advantage with a HT receiver is that it will have bass management, that is the ability to split the sound signal into upper frequencies for the main speakers, and bass frequencies for the subwoofers, which typically come with their own amplification. If you use a 2-channel amp, it can work ok, as nearly all subwoofer amps have filtering in place available to limit the signal range to only bass frequencies (for example below 80 Hz). But the other speakers will play these bass frequencies too, so there will be some overlap, and the main speakers could be more efficient if they were relieved of their bass duties as with an HT receiver.
  
• 2 or more speakers. Two are usually sufficient for music. Do you want small, medium, or large bookshelf speakers, or tower speakers. Size is not always related to how loud they play, but small speakers may have difficulty filling a venue, even when subwoofers are used.
  
• If you build your own subwoofer you'll also need an amplifier specifically for the subwoofer, either a plate amp to be part of the subwoofer, or another type.
  
• With a subwoofer, you'll need a hearing person to help tune the system a bit. There is a gain knob on the back of most subs that helps to balance the output with the rest of the music. You may wish it to be higher than normal, which is fine, but not by too much. In particular, you may wish it increased a bit more for your party, but back at the house, have it turned down some. Bass travels through floors, windows and walls too, to an extent. You probably don't want to bother neighbors.
  
  Edit 2: Without any knowledge of your specific room sizes (which would still be good to know!), I'll recommend the following setup:
  
  
• 2 Dayton Audio SUB-1500s, total $380. (Two subs will help provide sufficient output and even out the bass response over the area).
  
• 1 pair of the Dayton Audio B652-Air, $45
  
• 1 used 5.1 Home Theater Receiver, from Denon, Yamaha, or Onkyo for about $100. I'm partial to Denon, but the others can be fine.

As a rule of thumb, you should dump your money into the end points of the audio chain - in other words, have quality speakers and quality source material. The stuff in the middle of the chain - amplifier, CD player, cables, etc. - doesn't have as much of an effect on the audio quality, but you certainly don't want to cheap out.

Source material isn't as much of a concern as it was in years past, since so much of our music is delivered digitally - provided you stay away from low-bitrate MP3s and such. We don't have to deal with scratched records and worn-out cassette tapes anymore. I kind of feel like people sometimes mis-apply this guideline and sink crazy money into DACs, when they would of been better served with a speaker upgrade. You speakers, provided you're starting with high-fidelity music to begin with, have the most profound effect on audio quality.

I'd recommend a set of Pioneer BSR-22s for speakers and a decent Sony receiver.

I have the Pioneer speakers and love them. I bought them as a temporary solution while I was renting for a while, but enjoyed them so much that I never replaced them. They're wonderful, accurate yet kind of warm-sounding speakers. If you have the opportunity, listen to a variety of speaker and choose the ones that sound best to you. Sadly, this can be a bit of a chore since online shopping has shut down many hi fi shops. People really like those Micca and Dayton speakers, too, but I only have experience with these Pioneers.

I have the 7.1 version of that Sony in my home theater. Personally, I prefer Yamaha receivers that have a Burr-Brown DAC in them, but I needed a 4K switching receiver on a budget and ended up with the Sony. The one I linked to is a 5.1 receiver, so if you ever wanted to upgrade to surround sound, the possibility is there. Also it will do 4K video switching. A good stereo setup is fine for movies, however. If you know that stereo is all you'll ever need, you could find a good stereo receiver for a few bucks less.

Grab whatever budget Blu-ray player that suits your aesthetic.

Most importantly, have fun and don't stress out about your choices. Part of the fun of this hobby is enjoying the music while knob-dicking around with the equipment. You'll enjoy whatever you end up with.

1. I would look at the Orb Booster $160 or the SMSL Q5 Pro because of the optical inputs (can use with a TV later on) and the remote. I also think they have tone control and a bit more power.
   
   
2. If you really want powered speakers go for it but I'm not the guy to help with that. I'm not a fan of powered speakers. Also if you go down that route you won't need the amp upgrade as they have their own amp.
   
   
3. I would consider getting an AVR if you can fit in your space. Something like this Denon S510BT refurb $180 would be a good option. Not only would you be getting more power but you would also get all the benefits of an AVR. (Better speaker control, room correction, better bass management, more inputs...)
   
   Here is a sample system that I would look at
   
   AVR/Amp - I've already linked some options for you to look at.
   
   Sub - I would honestly keep what you have but get the sub cable that I linked above.
   
   Speakers - Here is where it gets fun. Lets say you spent $150-200 on an AVR/amp you'll have about $300 to play with. Lets look at some speakers in that range.
   
   

• Boston Acoustics A26 $120 ea - I think these are on sale so think quick This is a good price for the A series
  
  
• Boston Acoustics CS260 $160 ea - Towers that are in your budget. If you have space consider these.
  
  
• Polk RTi A1 $205 - The RTi's were decent Polk offerings
  
  
• Polk S20 $300 - New line they sounded decent in the store. Worth a look
  
  
• Cambridge Aero 2 $220 or SX60 $230 - These are on sale currently
  
  
• RBH R5Bi $225 - great sounding books at a reasonable price.
  
  
• Affordable Accuracy monitors $210+SH - another internet direct company with really good books at a fair price.
  
  If you don't have stands consider getting a pair. Having speakers at the right height will really help out the sound. Also getting them further apart can really help out too. stands help you accomplish this.

I'm not saying your Edifiers aren't fine, but that it's not what they were designed for so you'll need to be a bit unorthodox when adding a subwoofer. I'll give you 4 options:

1. Keep the Edifiers and pick up a Pioneer SW-8MK2. This will cost the same as the Yamaha sub you were looking at. Connect your current RCA cable to a volume knob like this one. Split your signal coming out of there with RCA to Dual RCA cables and You're good to go.
   
   
2. Spend your money on a great pair of speakers and forget a sub for now. This will offer the best sound by far and you can always add a sub down the line. Maybe you find a subwoofer for sale locally. A pair of JBL LSR305 speakers would fit the bill here. You can add a cheap mixer if you wanted more sources and convenient volume control.
   
   
3. Purchase a pair of powered speakers with a sub output like the Kanto YU4. These are super convenient since you just connect a sub through an RCA cable and you're good to go. You can still fit in a cheap sub within your budget like the cheapo monoprice or the Acoustic Audio RWSUB-10. If you wanted to spend the extra bit for the pioneer subwoofer, that's great too.
   
   
4. Purchase a passive system with a separate amplifier. Assuming you don't have infinite space on a desk or something then pick up an SMSL Q5. Pick up passive speakers like the Pioneer BS22 or Micca MB42X. Choose any of the aforementioned subs that fit in your budget. Pick up cheap speaker wire to connect your speakers to your amp, and use an RCA cable to have your amp send signal to your sub.

>Probably both but mostly music. A movie every once ina while through the airplay function on the apply tv. So living room.
>
>400 to 500 for amp and speakers. The lower the better. Currently using a 15 yr old sound bar.

AV Receiver: For use with 2 speakers and have the option to add more later for surround sound or better or boosted dialog with a center speaker. Also gives you a high pass crossover for the speakers and room correction speaker setup with the included calibration microphone.

• Denon AVR-S540 $150 5.2, one year factory warranty, with HDMI 2.0B and HDCP 2.2 for 4K video switching.
  
• Denon AVR-S640 $200 5.2 adds Audyssey MultEQ room correction / speaker calibration.
  
• Denon AVRX1400 $250 7.2/5.2.2, adds the better Audyssey MultEQ XT, or a new one half price for $300 with a 3 year factory warranty.
  
  Speakers:
  
  Recommendations from AverageJoeAudiophile and r/HTBuyingGuide.
  
  Internet Manufacturer Direct can be a good bang for the buck with 30 day in home trials.
  
  
• Ascend CBM-170s for the neutral sound with a linear frequency response. $300 + $30 shipping. My speaker of choice for under $400.
  
• Emotiva Airmotive B1 area a great buy at $230, recently reduced from $300.
  
• Wavecrest Audio HVL-1, and order on sale here at Ascend $80 each + shipping. Budget "Ascends". To me, they beat the popular KEF Q100s. Like most bookshelf speakers, best with a subwoofer.
  
• HSU HB1
  
• HTD
  
  On sale:
  
  
• Infinity Reference R162 $175.
  
• Klipsch RP-160M $330.
  
  DIY: 5" C-Notes $100, great starter DIY speaker. Add around $75 to $100 for tools and supplies. Kits includes pre-cut cabinets. Glue, solder, paint, assemble. Comparable to built speakers costing twice as much.
  
  Subwoofer: To add later.
  
  Low budget 12" Dayton SUB-1200 $150, 12" Bic F12 $220, and try a coupon code.
  
  On sale 10": DEFINITIVE TECHNOLOGY PROSUB 1000 $300.
  
  Better subwoofers:
  
  
• 10" SVS PB-1000 - Outlet $400.
  
• 10" HSU VTF-1 MK3 hybrid tune-able, $455 shipped.
  
• 12" SVS SB-1000 sealed $500, open box $417.
  
• 12" Rythmik L12 sealed, direct servo, $540.
  
• 12" HSU VTF-2 MK5 hybrid tune-able $610 shipped.
  
  Speaker wire:
  
  Pure Copper Oxygen Free 16 Guage Speaker Wire 50 ft. and self adjusting wire strippers. Also DFWCableConnection or Blue Jeans Cable.
  
  Speaker Stands:
  
  Audio Advisor and most are also available at Amazon. Monolith by Monoprice heavy duty, half price of name brand equivalent.
  
  Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/Audiophile Getting Started • Beginner's Guide to Home Audio • AverageJoeAudiophile's Guides • Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening
  
  Home Theater Guides: r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • Speaker Placement for Home Theater

Oh god, don't start shopping for a DAC. They're a waste of money for almost everyone, but /r/audiophile talks about them like they're the most important part of the system. A DAC is the device built into your smartphone or computer's sound card that converts the digital file to an analog signal for the amplifier to boost. People who have been misled by hype or have run out of things to spend money on start shopping for external DACs.

Most devices have perfectly fine DACs. You probably won't ever hear a difference between the one built into your iPhone and a $300 standalone unit.

What you want is an amplifier with a few different inputs, which is typically a receiver. There's a host of inexpensive new stereo and 5.1 home theater receivers that will do the job, but most will be the same width as your old receiver. Another issue with modern receivers is that most of them don't have a PHONO input, which means either you need an external PHONO preamp like this one or a turntable with a built-in preamp. Good news-- that Pyle I linked is dirt-cheap, and works great.

Alternatively, you could buy a little 50-watt amp like this one and pair it with a manual A/V switch like this. You'll still need the phono preamp, of course.

The cheap and simple solution is to learn to live with a full-sized receiver and go hunting for a good-quality early 90's home-theatre receiver with 80 or more watts/channel. People don't want old Dolby Surround receivers because they don't have all of the modern A/V doohickies, however they'll have at least 4 RCA inputs and a built-in PHONO input, and provide plenty of clean power. I love my Yamaha RX-V850 for this reason.

I hope this helps!

First step: have you read noaudiophile's reviews? He does very thorough reviews on a lot of budget speakers, and has corrections for many of the popular options. His corrections for the Infinity P163s that I'm currently using made them sound like completely different speakers.

First let's start with powered options:

The Micca PB42X would be a good option. They are basically a powered version of the MB42X so you don't need to purchase a separate amp. Also in the similar realm that get recommended here a lot would be the Swans D1010 and the Edifier R1280T.

Personally I'm a bigger fan of passive speakers, as you get a lot more options to expand your system.

Pioneer BS22 bookshelf speakers are great and have gone on sale quite a bit lately for $70-80/pair.

Dayton B652 I am currently using as my surround speakers, but people rave about them as a budget desktop option

Micca MB42X also get great reviews.

You could also go used for your speakers, but sometimes it can be hard to parse through all the junk out there if you don't know what you're looking for.

Take any of those passive options and pair them up with an inexpensive amp like this SMSL or Lepai for a good budget setup.

I would also recommend checking your local Craigslist or Facebook marketplace for a used receiver, you could pick up a very decent one for just a few bucks and have a great starting setup. This will give you a lot more powerful amp, and the ability later to easily add a subwoofer or expand to surround sound. Personally I'm using an older Sony home theater receiver at my desk, it's old enough that it doesn't have HDMI or optical inputs, someone was just giving it away so I snagged it.

College kid here, I'll try to help out.

It's generally recommended that you don't ever go for a HTIAB (home theater in a box) as they come with super shitty components and most often don't leave room to upgrade.

You'll get more flexibility and bang for your buck with bookshelves and a sub, but as you mentioned you only want a 2.0 for right now. If bass is really that important to you, I would actually recommend you get a pair of bookshelves now and invest in a sub later on. Towers are great but for a 2.0 setup you're going to want something smaller with better sound quality.

 

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Bookshelves: used Polk Signature S15's

>Top listing is $165 for like new speakers; S15's run for $229/pair new.

This listing in particular says "Speakers only, nothing else is included" which is odd for them to mention because I don't think these speakers normally come with any accessories. Maybe he's talking about the manual which can easily be found online. But who needs manuals anyway?

 

Amp: SMSL SA-50

>Price fluctuates between $63 and $69. This listing is $63.

Puts out 50 wpc, will power pretty much any speaker you throw at it. I owned this myself and recommend it for a first setup. Just keep in mind you will have to upgrade to a surround receiver if you ever want to move past 2.1 in the future.

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This puts you at $228 shipped. A bit above your absolute max of $200, but this is probably your best bet. You're also going to need to buy some speaker wire. It's only like $8.

So in total, this comes to $236 shipped. A bit above your budget, but it leaves you with some kickass bookshelves as well as the ability to add a sub in the future.

Oh sorry, it's hard to not go all jargon-crazy sometimes.

So studio monitors are designed for mixing audio, as such they're designed to be very very accurate. The flat response means if you plot a line representing all the audible frequencies from bass to the highest treble the line would be flat, so no boosted bass or lowered midrange or any of those things people usually fiddle with knobs to do. Just dead accurate, which lots of people think they want until they hear it, mids and highs can get a little tiring to listen to and is sometimes considered not a "warm" sound.

B&W is Bowers and Wilkins, a very good brand and I just meant find some from the 1980's because they crop up for sale used from time to time and sound great (check craigslist for B&W, Mission, Elac, Mirage, PSB and Wharfedale). Other options that aren't used would be Cambridge Audio SX50's, Elac B6.2's, and Wharfedale Diamond 210's. (Tons of reviews of all of those out there) As for an amp, the SMSL SA50 is plenty for most people for normal listening levels.

As for a DAC, you wouldn't necessarily need one for active monitors, but you would definitely need some interesting cables like these shitty ones. One of the advantages of pro-audio gear is they use balanced audio signals which makes long runs of cable safe from electromagnetic interference/noise/hum, most people don't have runs long enough for it to matter in their house but they look cool and "pro". Also to actually have a balanced signal going through those XLR cables you need a balanced output, which is where a DAC with balanced outputs or volume controller would come in. Here's a cheap ok controller.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to talk you out of studio monitors, speakers are super super super subjective and if I encountered a set of studio monitors that really blew my skirt up I'd probably buy all the balanced cables and some huge volume knob to be able to listen to them and be happy as a clam. Just hasn't happened yet.

well i was using some logitech 5.1 (surround sound) speakers which i sold for £40 on ebay to go towards my new speajkers. Richer sounds are a great shop imo and they always give you help and advice so i would look at the speakers there .

I got the Monitor Audio MR1s and there is so much difference between my old ones, crisper highs/treble and over all clearer sound, its very hard to explain how they sound better but trust me.

Types of speakers:
There are mainly 2 types, powered and non-powered.

Powered: They have a built in amp and plug into a wall socket for power and then go straight into your PC, they are easy to set up but some people like to have a separate amp (im also new to this so im not to sure why)

Non-Powered: They are just speakers and on there own cant produce sound as they dont have any power, which is where the amp/amplifier comes in. The amp just gives the speakers power so that they are able to produce sound and connect to a PC ect.

the bigger the speakers the bigger the amp needs to be to give it enough power.

I would go to richer sounds if you have one near you and ask for a demo for some speakers around £100 if you can and im sure you will notice a difference. Also watch some videos about audio and why some speakers are better than others.
Im also very new to this, i got my first pair 2 weeks ago.

These are some good powered speakers that will probs beat cheaper multimedia ones on the cheap:

M-Audio AV32

M-Audio AV42

Mackie CR4

These are some good non powered speakers and amps on the cheap:

MORDAUNT SHORT M20 AND SMSL SA-36A

Wharfedale Diamond 9.1 AND SMSL SA-36A

BTW the amp ive chosen will power them on a desk but might not be great for a big room.

Hope this helps :)

If you want to go the passive route, a decent setup would probably be around $150-200. If you want something with a tuner, a receiver would be a good choice over an amp.

Right now, you can get this Yamaha R-S202BL Stereo Receiver on Amazon or Best Buy for $119 which is an excellent deal. Usually this receiver costs $149 or more and Yamaha makes some of the best budget stereo receivers. Sometimes you can find this Insignia Stereo Receiver for about $99, but right now it costs higher than the Yamaha and is not worth it. Those are probably your best deals on receivers right now that won't break the bank. Most other receivers will cost you about $150 to start.

You can find a lot of good speakers under $150 and a few under $100. What you need to do is sign up for Fry's Electronics newsletter. Just this last week they sent a coupon code in my email to get the Pioneer SP-BS22-LR speakers for $58! Super good deal. Normally cost just over $100. They are sold out now, but this deal pops up quite often and they are well worth that price.

Here are more great speakers around $100 or less:

Micca MB42X speakers - $90.

Polk T15 - $100

Dayton Audio B652 - $30

Dayton Audio B652-AIR - $44

JBL Arena B15 - $79

Well "best" is completely subjective. But getting passive speakers (un-powered) that require speaker wire and a separate amp will allow you to hand pick components and upgrade in the future. If you buy a powered set of speakers and they break or you want something different, you have to scrap the whole thing.

It's a bit more effort, but it's pretty damn fun and ultimately very rewarding. A simple passive speaker system will sound better than most pc speaker boxed sets that even cost 2x more. And you can add a subwoofer for the best bass quality possible.

But I understand convenience may matter more to some people.

It really depends on how much you have to spend. Start with a lepai amp if it is the strictest of budgets, but I would say spend a bit more on an amp from smsl or something for a bit more quality and power.

I started with micca mb42x which are very well regarded for the price. In the under $1-$200 price range spending or skimping even $20 will almost always provide a tangible difference in quality.

This sub's sidebar and the Zeos Guide have great speaker lists.

At the bare minimum include the following things if you want help and/or advice choosing or setting up amplifiers, speakers, DACS, etc

• Budget: a little more or less than 100 u$s? I'm not sure
  
• Country: Argentina. If the product cost more than 50$, I have to pay 50% of the excedent as taxes
  
• I can buy from: Any amazon, b&h, I think almost everywhere
  
• Use: Audioslave, RHCP, Rock in general, series,
  
• Where: A desk in a Room
  
• Space: 3.67m x 3.88m, NOT really loud, I will be most of the time 1.5m away from the speakers and occasionally on my bed, or taking a bath or cooking in the next room.
  
  Optional but also helpful
  
  
• Powered, passive, or no preference: no preference, I've heard you can get a better quality with the same budget with passive speakers.
  
• Any size limitations for either speaker or amp: no
  
• To upgrade later?: not really
  
• Pref certain way of sounding (Bright/forward, smooth/laid back, neutral, etc): that immersive experience (everyone here would call it the commercial one?) but I'm not sure, I don't have any speaker to listen and compare.., I only have a HyperX Cloud 1 headsets and I won't be downloading FLAC at least for the moment, I only listen from Spotify (music) or Bluray (series and movies) most part of the time
  
  I've made my search but I have no idea about this so... I need speakers for the pc on the desk in my room. Mostly for series, music, games. I will not update the system soon after this purchase and I don't have anything right now besides my current headphones.
  
  I'm from Argentina so I have 2 disadvantages: I have absolutely no idea what I'm buying because there are no places near me to try any of these speakers. For every purchase, if I spend more than 50$ I will have to pay 50% of the excedent. That means, I can buy an amp of 30$ without paying taxes or if it exists the possibility to buy a pair of headphones by separate (1 and 1 making a pair) I will probably not pay taxes... Are there places willing to do that?
  
  This is my room: https://imgur.com/a6UVKYU
  
  Questions:
  
  - What would you recommend and why?
  
  - My motherboard doesn't have bluetooth. I want to connect my pc the 99% of the time and maybe my phone 4-5mts away. What is my best option?
  
  - I think I can buy from any amazon. I've found better prices for some of the products there. Editing..
  
  Active:
  
  Edifier R1280T 156$ - £89.99
  
  Edifier R980T 115$ - £59.99
  
  Swan Speakers - D1010-IVB (unavailable? the 2nd best option?)
  
  Passive:
  
  Micca PB42 60$
  
  Micca PB42X 110$
  
  Pioneer SP-BS22-LR 93$ (the best ones? 1st best option?)
  
  Dayton Audio B652 28$
  
  Dayton Audio B652-AIR 45$
  
  Amp:
  
  Lepy LP-2020A Class-D 23$ (I want to connect my phone occasionally without disconnecting my pc, should I get a bluetooth or wifi amp?)
  
  ​
  
  ps: sorry for the long post and thanks in advance

All right guys, I just had to take a picture of the two speakers together because, as you can see, compared to the diminutive MK402 the Elacs are simply HUGE. I kept the mouse in the pic to give you an idea (sorry, I checked, I had no bananas!).

Their size is something you should be aware of, especially if you are going to keep em -like me- as monitors on a desk.

A little background on my system: I use mainly Tidal hi-res streaming as source. The PC is hooked via USB to an external dac, an AUNE X1S, line out of the DAC goes into a Dayton DTA-120 (the real hero of this story, spoilers!!!) that powers the speakers.

Right out of the box, I position the Elacs on the desk (on foam absorbers for studio monitors, you might notice em under the elacs in the pic), hook em up, and Im shocked. They sound exactly like the MK402... wtf?

Well the first lesson is, guys, believe in break-in. I had the same thing happening with the MK402. They sounded a bit crappy and harsh at first, but sloooooooooooowly the sound mellowed and became fuller. Fact is it happened so progressively I always had the doubt it was my ear/brain adjusting to their sound more than break-in.

This time around, though, it happened in a matter of just an hour and possibly less. Something definitely "loosened up" inside the ELACS, and oh boy... the poor daytons were blown out of the water.

First thing you will notice is the obvious one. The Elacs will go lower... and DEEPER. Please be aware that the MK402 go crazy low for their size. You can easily be shocked at the bass they can "magically" let out... but it definitely lacks that punch and that fullness that the ELACS will provide with an easiness that is honestly disarming. One of their strong points is that they sound (and they will go LOUD!) like they dont even care. You crank the volume and they just shrug and give you volume and power, never losing their composture, whereas the MK402 will totally break down and will start showing signs of ...suffering?

Second thing you'll notice is... despite their BIG size, they are muuuuuuuch easier to position. The Mk402 are extremely, extremely fussy. Push them one inch too close to the rear wall, the bass goes so muddy you wanna kill yourself, pull em one inch too far and the bass becomes anemic and the "magic" disappears. I guess Mr Andrew Jones did the right thing putting the reflex on the baffle instead of the more typical rear exhaust. But it doesnt end there. the biggest difference is the dispersion. The MK402 CAN sound awesome and "flat" but you must almost lock your head in a very precise and narrow position. Move sideways or a little back and forth and some frequencies will overwhelm others. with the Elacs... well, I'm flabbergasted. You can almost move around the room and you'll hear the frequencies pretty much the same way in every position.

Obviously the Elacs -I suspect for the same reason: dispersion- will give a much better holographic presentation, but Im still working on the placement and my room is really fussy so maybe I'll update you guys later when I finally manage to make the speakers "disappear", which was something simply impossible to achieve with the Daytons (believe me... I tried).

Third thing you'll notice (as they keep breaking in, becoming more and more transparent) is how comparatively analitic they are. Listening to Steely Dan's "I got the news" the infamous scratching/clicking around 2:17 made me jump on the seat, I litterally thought something was faulty and breaking!

After a while, though, the biggest and most shocking realization is how nonchalantly the little class-D amplifier from Dayton is driving the Elacs. The speakers are quite efficient, yes, but I was ALMOST sure I would need a better amplifier (my eyes are on the NAD326BEE, always been a big fan of NAD sound), but Im not so sure anymore. Volume knob is at hour ten/eleven (it will go as far as hour five) and the room is filled with a smooth, relaxed, full sound. Maybe the NAD can wait!

Okay, I'll shut up for now. I'll leave here a few links with all the aforementioned gear for reference, especially price-wise.

Aune DAC

Dayton D-Class Amp

Dayton MK402

Elac B6.2


*edited endless times for clarity and cause I do thousands of typos.

So, if you like the convenience of the Pill, but want more ooomph, I've gotta recommend the Logitech UE Boombox. It's been discontinued, but you can get new or practically new models on eBay for 70 bucks or so.

I've owned a lot of nice Bluetooth speakers, and some decent audio gear, and pound for pound nothing really touches the thing.

I would recommend heading up your local Goodwill or other thrift store for speakers and an old receiver. With a pretty minimal amount of footwork, you can grab something that probably cost $1000 back in the day for $100.

Skip Marantz as it's really over priced at this point, but brands like Realistic, Rotel, Sansui, and Pioneer are still affordable. They look cool as shit, and have a nice distinctive sound. You can probably get a low-end 20 or 30 W per channel Realistic off craigslist or at your local thrift shop for 30 bucks.

You can then get a nice set of Boston Acoustic or Polk audio speakers for another 50 bucks. Just make sure the foam around the subwoofers is fine, and that the tweeters aren't busted. Most people are happy to hook them up for you to listen to.

If you don't want to mess with older stuff, grab one of these :

ttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W13OR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hg16xbX21C1NM

And a set of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7H8GG2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ih16xb227QN96

And two of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011LXUKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5j16xb4JV5NZ5

Alternatively, grab the amp and wires new, and then get the speakers used off eBay or Craigslist or whatever. Speakers lose value at an alarming rate, but at the sub-$100 price point you're not really risking much.

For reference, I got a set of B+W CM2 speakers for $90 off Craigslist. They were almost $1000 new 12 years ago.

I'm not a guru, but to my understanding at 300$ price range you want to start looking at AMP + Bookshelf Speakers for music.

I came to that conclusion with couple days of looking at forums and threads.

Even more so in US and I'm from EU.

​

and even before that price point some Active Studio Monitors or Active Bookshelf are better quality than Edifiers R series already.

More clarity, more depth and tighter bass, but I cannot speak for Edifier S series, they are supposedly good.

Adam, JBL, Mackie MRT, Klipsch, M-Audio, PreSonus, KRK and some more active brands I'm forgetting.

​

But at that price you can be looking at some proper Amp + Passive Speakers combos.

​

If you need Mini-amps for desk and on budget:

SMSL SA-50 68$

Dayton Audio DTA 2.1BT2 95$ - recommend this one for punchy bass and features

You could probably find some good new and used amps, if you can use bigger sized ones.

But like I said I'm no guru.

​

Bookshelf speakers:

ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 275$

KEF Q100 357$

Q Acoustics 3020i 299$

Q3020 non i version which I tried with Dayton Audio DTA 2.1BT v1. lacked bit bass, decided to go for Mission LX-2 they still haven't arrived.

But they do not seem available in US.

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http://m.ebay.com/itm/10-Zone-2-4-6-8-Pair-Speaker-Selector-Switch-Switcher-with-Volume-Level-Control-/261444643684?nav=SEARCH

This is what I mean by a speaker selector. Yes it's expensive, but it is cheaper than getting a 20 channel power amp (non existent) and 10 seperate volume control knobs.

I prefer vintage speakers, but they can be a pain (expensive) to up-keep. New speakers generally have better value and more features.

You can either staple the wire along the bottom of the wall of your room or you can have someone install it in-wall. For wireless, you could get the Sonos speakers. This would probably add up to more than the amp+speaker selector + speakers. But it is wireless and easier to work with.

I would reccomend getting either a Bluetooth receiver or a Sonos connect. The only advantage the Sonos connect has is the Sonos software and a bigger range.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/reviews/B00RJKRYVC/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001CROHX6/


For speakers, dirt cheap, I would reccomend the Micca MB42X. Cheap, reliable and they sound pretty great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E7H8GG2/

You can also get outdoor speakers for the outdoor areas. So if you have 2 outdoor areas, buy either 1 pair (1 speaker per area, mono) or 2 pairs (2 speakers per area)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000A5S926/


If you really want even cheaper the Dayton B652 Air is a good choice.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651

For amps, the Behringer A500 will give you 500watts of sweet sound. That's 25watts a speaker. Okay.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CZ0RL0/

The Behringer iNuke 1000,3000,6000 will give you 50, 150, 300 watts a speaker. Honestly I would get the iNuke DSP1000. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005EHIN3A

You need these cables:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WRK0SW6/

x2: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BERXW6/ comes out of iNuke, wire speaker wire to the connector and then to the switcher.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BWSCXT0/

IIF YOU GET ALL OF THE SAME SPEAKER, YOU CAN SKIP THE SPEAKER SELECTOR WITH VOLUME CONTROL. just get one with switching. The only reason to have volume control is if you are using different speakers.

To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.

DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B000KW2YEI

Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B00F0H8TOC

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B0063NU30K

Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B00E7H8GG2

Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B006LW0WDQ

With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B00I0HPK6O

Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B0094A1F3S

This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.

No worries, buddy. Happy to help. You don't need to worry about a preamp just yet, as your turntable has one built in. Just make sure you have the selector switch on the back of the unit set to "line" rather than "phono" and you're all set. As for connecting the speakers to the receiver, I managed to find a pic of the rear connections on the U310. It looks like they use spring clips to connect, so you're going to have to use bare wire.

First thing you'll need is a spool of speaker wire. I've had good luck with the Amazon Basics stuff, and it's about as cheap as decent wire gets. You'll need to strip a bit of the jacket off of each wire on each end. I do it by hand, but you might want to try a wire stripper if you're not comfortable free-handing things. Once you've exposed the bare wire, simply give each side a quick twist to secure them into separate threads and insert each thread into the back of the speaker, depressing the spring clip to allow the wire to fit into the hole and releasing it to bite down on the wire. As for the back of the amp, the procedure's the same if it has spring clips. If it has binding posts like the SMSL I linked earlier, you'll want to unscrew them a bit, wrap the bare wire around the exposed post, and tighten the post heads back down to create a nice, tight seal.

One word of warning on the off chance you've never done anything like this before. Remember to connect your positive (red) terminals on your speakers to your positive terminals on your amp, and your negative (black) to negative. The speaker wire makes that pretty easy, as one channel is marked with a little white line so you'll always know what's going where. Additionally, make sure your amp's left output is wired to your left speaker and the right to the right. Simple stuff, but it's easy to miss if this is your first time.

$80 isn't going to get you anything that will blow you away, but will get you something that's a good starting point and will sound better than the built-in speakers in any monitor.

Check out Steve Guttenberg's review of the Lepai LP2020TI and Dayton B652-Air. He raved about it as an awesome $88 beginner audiophile's delight. Actually cheaper than that right now, since you can get the 2020TI for $19.99 and the B652-Airs for $44.99 on Parts-Express right now. Even if you pay shipping, that should come out to under $80.

Or, if you can stretch your budget just a bit, you can get the Micca MB42x's for $79.95 from Amazon, then throw in that $20 2020TI for the amp.

Otherwise, look around for second-hand (thrift stores, Craigslist, LetGo, etc.) and find something within your budget. Probably best to stay away from all the typical "PC" speakers like the logitech sets that come with very cheap, cost-cutting speakers and sub.

But why? Those are great if you don't have an amp or receiver but you have a perfectly good amp in that old Denon. Your $150 will go further if you buy the best passive speaker possible.

At $150 there are some good passive speaker options.

Polk Audio Monitor 40 Series II are a good choice and shouldn't sound thin without a subwoofer. $104 on Newegg right now. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290202

JBL Arena B17 https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Arena-B17-Black-Bookshelf/dp/B072MYY7KD/

BIC DV62si https://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-DV62si-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00006JPDI/

Samson makes some desktop monitors that feature bluetooth input. I haven't really seen any reviews for them yet. The MediaOne

Take a look at reviews for those and get at least the 4" ones. I can't expect the 3" ones would have much bass response.

Everything else listed lacks bluetooth, but you could add a standalone bluetooth reciever to any of them.

The M-Audio AV-40s get good reviews, and the Wirecutter calls them the best computer speakers.

Those are active monitors. They will be good for near field, and the amp inside them is designed with the speakers.

If you go passive plus amp you can upgrade components down the road. Maybe get the Micca MB42X and a Topping TP20, or find a good reciever (70s Kenwood, Pioneer, Marantz, Teac, Technics, etc. are great) for super cheap (0-$20) at a yard sale or thrift store or craigslist and get the Panasonic SP-BS22

Strictly speaking, wattages and THD are a good guide for figuring out quality, but are certainly not a hard-and-fast rule. Knowing your brands and trusted opinions are better, listening to it yourself is best.

The link in the sidebar has some good ones.

I'm actually in exactly the same position as you at the moment, I'm considering this one as it's the cheapest (50w per channel, ~au$80 delivered), but apparently this one is much better even though it's only 30w per channel and is $20 more.

Or then again I could anticipate future upgrades and just go for this yammy amp which is 100w per channel for ~$190.

I really like that Denon one you've posted, though. Decisions, decisions.

You've got tons of options...

These 3 way Sony bookshelf speakers are a great option that fits your budget. You could do 4 of those and the matching center: https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-SSCS5-3-Driver-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B00O8YLMVA

Beyond that... Fluance, Jamo, Micca, Elac and Klipsch all offer good speakers that fall in your budget.

The receiver is going to be a little more difficult, but still doable in your budget. Look at 5.2 options from Onkyo, Yamaha and Denon. You'll be able to save some money without sacrificing too much if you go for "last years model."

Something like this Denon: https://www.amazon.ca/DENON-AVR-S650H-Receiver-Streaming-Bluetooth/dp/B07QRC9NP5

Last little bit of advice... don't overspend on cables. For speaker wire, the bare bones Amazon basics is perfectly fine. Same thing for HDMI and anything else you need. Basically... don't get your cables from Best Buy and you'll be OK.

do you like how klipsch horn tweeters sound? i personally cant stand them, as in at any sort of decent volume they hurt my ears. they are just so piercing to me. cant do it.

i would recommend these for a budget system, they are just great all around speakers for the price. i have these and have given them as gifts, and always happy with them. https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG/ref=sr_1_3

the amp part of that klipsch deal does look pretty interesting though. and apparently its $500 on its own, making that $379 deal seem all the sweeter. if it had a dac i liked better (ess sabre too piercing for me, like horn tweeters, apparently my ears hate higher frequencies?) id prob buy that package just for the amp as it has some nice features.

https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-PowerGate-Amplified-Wireless-Gateway/dp/B01N0A7PH5

if youre familiar with klipsch horn tweeters and like them id say that looks like a pretty good deal. the amp part alone is prob worth that $500 really.

An old guy here with advice.

So smallish room.... means you can save $$ with some nice bookshelf speakers and a modest size receiver or amp. Try to snag speakers with 6 inch + drivers and you really will not need a woofer for music.

Digital music is excellent but older mp3 files might be crummy. Look for flac files or 320kbs mp3. Compact Discs are great...and good condition vinyl is too. Do not waste time on cassettes....

Personally I think the onkyo ought to be plan A as a decent tube amp will be pricey and great speakers are gonna affect sound quality the most. Does the onkyo have a phono preamp built in?

Some great bookshelf speaker choices

keg q100

or

elac



Also.... the tunes from back in the day will bring back some great memories.

For speakers, if space is an issue, you should get the Micca MB42X then, as they're much smaller than the JBL LSR305s. Or you could even just get the Micca MB42. I have the JBL LSR305s and a fairly small desk and they fit. I have a 23-inch monitor and one speaker on each side of the monitor. You may also want to get a DAC for your speakers, like the Schiit Modi 2 / (Amazon link) or a DAC/amp combo, like the Schiit Fulla / (Amazon link) or FiiO E10K (Amazon link) or AudioQuest - DragonFly (Amazon link).

For headphones/headsets, you have many choices. If you are a gamer, you should check out Sennheiser's gaming headsets. If you don't plan on gaming and just want to listen to music, check out the Sennheiser HD series. They can be found much cheaper on Amazon, eBay, or other various retailers. I personally have the Sennheiser PC363D headset for gaming and unfortunately paid about $240 for them, not even 6 months ago. Right after I bought them, the price on Amazon dropped dramatically, to around $130. I just checked on Amazon and now they're back up to around $219, but if you watch them, they will probably drop again like they did before. Or you can check on eBay. Sennheiser does have cheaper models though (all of these are around $150 or less) like the brand new Sennheiser GSP300 / (Amazon link), Sennheiser GSP350 / (Amazon link), or the Sennheiser GAME ONE / (Amazon link). I have tried a few different brands and Sennheiser is my favorite for performance. I also have the Sennheiser HD 598 SE / (Amazon link) for listening to music and the Sennheiser RS120 II wireless headphones (Sennheiser RS 120 (older model) (Amazon link)) for my TV and got them for my parents too. If you live in a place where you can't have your TV or music too loud, the wireless headphones are very helpful. Overall, I use the Sennheiser PC 363D headset the most and it sounds awesome. If you're a gamer, get a gaming headset, or if you just listen to music, the HD series are great too.

That's interesting, but unfortunately most of these builds are DIY and lack any sort of standardization, so you'll have to do most of the heavy lifting in order to figure out what you have, as well as what you need.

As to your first point, you probably do need some sort of room selection, as well as a) an amplifier which powers the speakers, and b) either a single streaming platform (e.g. Chromecast Audio, Sonos Connect, etc.) to send signal to all speakers, or multiple streaming platform to send signal to individual speakers or rooms.

As to your second question, that depends on how you want to answer the above questions, and on how they're set up. As I mentioned, there probably isn't much standardization between this build and others, so I would start this whole process by getting a basic amplifier (Lepai 2020 is fine for this purpose) and going through each wire in that bunch as well as each pair of connectors in the garage (see below). Turn off the amp, hook up a pair of speakers, turn on the amp, play something, track down the sound, label the wires by room (colored electrical tape), stop playing, repeat.

After you figure out how the speakers, wires, and wall panels are connected, you can work on picking out an amplifier, a streaming platform, and a room selection device. I would budget $1000 for this, but it can probably be done for less. If you don't want to spend that right now (understandable), you can probably wire up one room to a Chromecast Audio and an SMSL SA50 (non-plus) for less than $100 if that room has a priority (see below).

As to your last question, those are probably banana plugs. Just another termination for speaker wire, not a big deal in the context of the rest of this. If you need banana plugs, Amazon or Monoprice have them for basically nothing.

The most basic set-up for whole home audio you could have is this speaker selector, this amplifier, and this streaming device. Probably $250 for the full home, or more if you have more than 4 rooms wired.

Alternately, if you want to be able to play two different streams in two rooms simultaneously, you could put this streaming device and this amplifier in the ceiling of each room. Google Home allows for CCAs to be combined into groups rather flexibly- you could put Kitchen-Living Room- Bathroom in one group, and Bedroom 1-Garage in another, and Living Room- Bedroom 1 in another, and every CCA you have in yet another, and still have the ability to play music in any one room on its own. Very nice system, but doing this is realistically $100 per room. If you don't mind limiting yourself to pairs of rooms, you can cut down on this cost by adding a four-channel room selector to this chain.

High-end receivers also may contain their own multi-room, multi-source implementations, but you're typically limited to two rooms, and two sources. Add in two splitters like this and you can expand that capability out to two groups of four speakers, but those groups would be less flexible than the CCA setup above. This setup is $500.