Best products from r/CNC
We found 28 comments on r/CNC discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 99 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. CNC Programming Handbook, Third Edition (Volume 1)
- New
- Mint Condition
- Dispatch same day for order received before 12 noon
- Guaranteed packaging
- No quibbles returns
Features:
2. ComposiMold Used 3lbs Reusable Mold Making
100% reusable mold making material.Used, filtered ComposiMold, Works like new, but it is not food contact safe.Works great with Resins like ComposiCast, ComposiMold-Plaster, and more.Colors and shapes may vary from photos.
3. Adenna Catch 8 mil Nitrile Powder Free Gloves (Orange, X-Large) Box of 100
- Powder-free, nitrile & full heavy texture
- 8 mil finger thickness, durable for high risk and mid to heavy duty applications
- 100 percent rubber latex free eliminates potential allergic reactions to latex protein
- 100 gloves by weight per box
- Suitable for: auto mechanics, aviation, dairy/ranch, industrial/Manufacturing, janitorial/cleaning, marine/naval, plumbing, painting, safety
Features:
4. CNCdrive UC100 USB to Parallel CNC Motion Controller
- Replaces the standard parallel port interface.
- Operate a CNC machine over a USB connection
- Works seamlessly with Mach3 Software (sold separately).
- Pulses at rates up to 100 kHz.
Features:
5. Pro'sKit 900-015 Helping Hands Soldering Aid
Brand name you can trustProfessional grade toolsMeet or exceed quality standards and quality control procedures conform to the strict requirements of the standard
6. Siglent SDG1025 Function/Arbitrary Waveform Generator, 25MHz, 125MSa/s Sample Rate
Apply DDS technology, double output, adjustable phase, the highest output frequency is 25MHz125MSa/s sample rate, 14bit vertical resolution, 16Kpts wave lengthOutput 5 types of standard waveform, internally installed 48 types of waveformAbundant modulation function, sweep-frequency output, pulse tra...
7. Hakko FA400-04 Bench Top ESD-Safe Smoke Absorber
Can be operated standing up or laying down in a low-profile positionLow profile position provides approximately 2-1/2 times the airflow and efficiencyESD-safe by design and is made of ESD-safe materialsActivated Carbon filter contains over 8g of highly activated carbonQuick and easy filter replaceme...
8. Plano Molding 135430 Stow N' Go Pro Rack with 4 #23500s Prolatch Organizers,Graphite Gray, Sandstone
- Plano Molding Company| Keeping you organized since 1952
- Organizer Includes 4 small ProLatch StowAway utility boxes (size 3500) with adjustable dividers
- Clear door covers entire system to secure organizers in place | Great for office, pantry, crafting room or kids room
- Dimensions: 11" Long by 10" Tall
- Made in the USA
Features:
9. Weller WD1002 95w/120v Digital Soldering Station with WP80 Pencil
- Modern LCD technology gives the user critical information at a glance
- 3 programmable temperature preset buttons allowing quick and easy temperature changes
- Programmable features such as temperature standby, lockout, set-back, and offset
- °F/°C switching which allows the unit to either read temperatures in °F or °C
- Comes with WP80 (80w) soldering pencil and stand (WDH10)
Features:
10. 12mm Shaft 13 Hardened Rod Linear Motion
- Round steel shaft for use with linear support blocks and closed type slide units in linear motion applications
- Chrome plated for corrosion resistance
- Case hardened for wear resistance
- Precision ground for consistent ball bushing radial clearance
- Shaft diameter and length specified for accurate fit
Features:
11. WINGONEER 4pcs SCS12UU Linear Motion Ball Bearing CNC Slide Bushing 36mm Length
- Linear bearing is widely applied to electronic equipment, food machinery, packaging machinery, medical machinery, printing machinery, textile machinery, machinery, equipment, robots, tools, machinery, machine tools, automotive and digital three-dimensional coordinate measuring equipment and other precision equipment or special machinery industry
- Model:SCS12UU
- Inner Diameter: 12mm/0.47"
- Length: 36mm
- 0
Features:
12. iGaging IP54 Electronic Digital Caliper 0-6" Display Inch/Metric/Fractions Stainless Steel Body
Easy read SUPER LARGE display (2-3/8"x7/8")IP54 - Splash water, oil and dust resistantHardened stainless steel bodyPrecision lapping finishRange: 0-6" Accuracy: 0.001" Repeatability: 0.0005" Resolution: 0.0005"/0.01mm/1/128"
13. Yonico 33210-SC 1/4-Inch Dia. 2 Flute Compression Cut Spiral End Mill CNC Router Bit 1/4-Inch Shank
- For a clean CNC milled finish on both top and bottom surfaces of laminated materials and plywood
- Premium C3 micro-grain solid tungsten carbide for a high-performance industrial quality tool
- For use on CNC, table mount and handheld routers
- Polished to a mirror finish from a solid carbide rod for precision & accuracy
Features:
14. RS-550s 18v (6v - 24v) DC Motor - High Power & Torque for DIY Electric/Electronic Projects, Drills, Robots, RC Vehicals, Remote Controlled Cars/Robot, Saw Repair/Replacement Engine & More
- RS-550s Brushed DC Motor Weight: ~7.7oz (218g) Body Length: 2.24in (57mm) Body Diameter: 1.46in (37.5mm)
- Operating Voltage: ~6v - 20v | Optimal Volt Range: 12v - 18v | 18 Volt Nominal (Optimal Power, Speed, and Torque near 18 volts)
- Shaft Length ~0.35 inch / ~11/32in or ~9mm | Diameter ~0.125 inch / 1/8in or ~3.175mm | Style: Round | Stall Current: ~85A | Efficiency: ~70% | No Load RPM: ~20000 rpms | RPM Peak Efficiency: ~17000 rpms
- Designed as a Power Tool Drill motor and may replace motors in many 3/8in drills and other cordless and outdoor tools. Popular choice for DIY Electronics and Robotics, PowerWheels, and some Gate Openers. Will not work or fit in all models, be sure to check your specific applications requirements before purchasing
- PLEASE NOTE: If your replacing a motor please be sure to verify the motor matches your dimensions and shaft length and diameter before purchasing.
Features:
15. BQLZR 20 Degree 0.1mm Carbide Engraving Bits CNC Router Tool For PCB Board Pack Of 10
- 20 Degree 0.1mm Carbide Engraving Bits
- Router Tool For PCB Board
- Razor blades permanently enclosed in a cartridge or housing with less than 2mm of blade exposed. The bladed product is not use for people under 18 years. The item is only use for industrial /engraving, not hazardous article.
Features:
16. New DC 24V 15A Switching Power Supply Transformer Regulated for Cctv, Radio, Computer Project
17. SIENOC PCI-express to 2 Ports DB9 Serial RS232 RS-232 Com Card for WIN7
- PSU UPGRADE SAVER video card to power supply cable provides an option for connecting a power supply without an 8 pin PCIe connection for GPU power.
- PCI EXPRESS POWER CABLE adapter connects a PCIe video card with an 8 pin PCIe connection to a power supply with only 6 pin PCIe power connections; Check that your PSU is rated to power the video graphics card
- 8 PIN PCIe to 6 PIN male to female adapter cable provides a convenient solution for supplying video graphics card power with an 8 pin connector for GPU cards that require more power
- STURDY GRAPHICS CARD power cable has an 8 pin male PSU PCIe connector with keyed rails and a female 6 pin PSU PCIe connector with a latch for a secure connection on each end to prevent accidental disconnections
- VIDEO GRAPHICS CARD compatible with graphics cards with 8 pin PCIe connectors from popular manufacturers such as ASUS, Gigabyte, Radeon, and Sapphire
Features:
18. V Shaped 30 Degree Carving Bit 10pcs For CNC Engraving and Milling on Wood, Acrylic, Brass, MDF, Soap Stone, Printed Circuit Board
Shank Diameter: 3.175mm (1/8 inch)Degree: 30°Material: Solid CarbidePCB Making, VCarve, Wax mold making, Acrylic, LED makingCan be used with Dremel rotary tools, cnc spindle with 1/8 inch collets, end mills, cnc milling machine, cnc engraver, routers with 1/8 inch collet adapter
19. Etekcity Digital Multimeter, Volt Ohm Amp Meter, Voltage Tester with Continuity, Diode and Resistance Test, Dual Fused for Anti-Burn, Red, MSR-R500
- ACCURATELY MEASURES: This multimeter can test AC/DC Voltage, DC current (Not for AC current), Resistance, Diode, Continuity and More. Sampling Speed: 3 times per second
- HANDY TROUBLESHOOTER: Data Hold button holds a reading; large backlit LCD with large digits is easily visible in dimly lit areas; Built-in support stand allows for hand free use; Low battery indication and Continuity buzzer
- SAFETY PROTECTION: The multimeter has overload protection on all ranges and anti-burn with double fuses. Protective rubber sleeve around the multimeter adds extra drop protection
- NOTE: This multimeter cannot be used to test AC current. Please make sure the rotary switch is located at the right range during use
Features:
I've been looking into this space (best medium-cost maker/builder/fab tools) over the past couple of months, and here are my recommendations so far...
Now go make some awesome things!
Sounds like a cool project, probably more suited to the hobby CNC subreddit: /r/hobbycnc , but I'm still happy to throw in my 2 cents here.
Instead of building up trucks with threaded rod / bearings / nuts, and using an aluminum tube for your linear motion, I would highly recommend using off the shelf linear bearings and shafting. The proliferation of the hobbyist DIY CNC / 3D Printer segment has flooded the market with cheap linear motion components. It's still going to be a bit more than your proposed solution, but I think it would be worth it - you'll save yourself a lot of frustration and end up with a better performing solution, even using the cheapest off the shelf components. Something like these, for example:
For the gear rack / spur gear: Do the individual "blocks" the louvers are attached to need to move independently of each other, or can they all move ganged? I'm assuming you need the independent linear motion, but just in case you don't, it would be much cheaper to use one motor to turn a single leadscrew that runs the full length of the machine axially and have a nut on each "block".
Assuming you need the independent linear movement, your use of a gear rack is a good solution. You mentioned wanting to use NEMA17 motors but were unable to locate a gear that would fit on the 5mm shaft. McMaster has brass spur gears with the DP and PA to match your rack with a .1875" bore, however they're brass, not stainless:
You'd obviously have to ream the bore to fit a 5mm shaft, but that shouldn't be much of an issue. If you can't live with brass, and you can't find a 32DP 20° spur gear with an appropriate bore elsewhere, you could always turn down a bushing to press fit on the 5mm motor shaft to make the larger bore spur gear work. If you're not paying for your time to make the bushings, the material cost for that is going to be a lot less than the price delta between the NEMA17 and NEMA23 steppers.
Also, if the "blocks" are moving independently of each other, you probably want to put limit switches on them to prevent them from running into each other and trashing your steppers / gears / whatever else.
Lastly, I'd try to avoid using the 2x2 wood stud for that structural component. Structural timber like that is terribly unstable and not dimensionally accurate at all, I can see it causing you issues - take a look at 80/20 aluminum extrusions for those structural components. They're obviously more expensive than wood, but you can find good deals on eBay (the actual manufacturer of 80/20 even has an eBay store where they sell surplus / off cuts / scratch & dent / etc.: 8020-Inc-Garage-Sale)
Anyway, hope some of that is helpful. Like I said, looks like a cool project, and I think it's certainly achievable, even without taking any of my suggestions on board. Oh, and BTW - nice looking rendering you made there!
Knowing that he made a 4 ft x 4 ft cnc machine, I would venture to guess it would be a cnc router and he is planning to mainly cut wood and maybe some aluminum. That said I really wouldn't buy expensive machinist tools if you wanted to better budget your money.
Here are some stuff that can be made on a cnc router:
http://www.shopbottools.com/mSupport/projects.htm
I'm assuming he may have told you what kind of stuff he could build or wanted to build when he said he wanted to build one. If it was for wood projects, then you can get a good 6 in. digital caliper under $40, such as these:
http://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W
I have the large readout version of that one by the way.
Not sure what he plans to use for clamping his stuff down to the table, but here's a great option:
http://www.rockler.com/hold-down-clamp-5-1-2l-x-1-1-8w
OK, you built a cnc router, but what do you make? Here are some 3D files for purchase:
http://www.vectorart3d.com/
This 3D router bit set will work for sign making (not sure what diameter bit he needs, and also add some spiral bits)
http://www.rockler.com/rockler-3-pc-signmaking-router-bit-set
This is a great work shop apron because these shoulder straps are more comfortable than the ones the just go around your neck. Also the mesh pockets let saw dust fall out instead of collecting in there.
http://m.duluthtrading.com/store/mens/mens-workshop/tool-bags-tool-belts/85021.aspx
If your not sure what he plans to cut them a gift card is always welcomed.
I'm glad you have machining experience. People who come online and "have no experience" but want to learn always have me wondering. Learning CNC can be a challenge depending on the person but you need ot know how to machine and the intimacies of what is possible, how to hold your work, feeds and speeds etc in addition to learning CNC.
This book is somewhat of a bible on cnc programming though it's pretty dense. If you get the machine, it shouldn't be to hard to pick up basic movements (especially 2axis or 2.5axis G code by hand. Programs like CamBam will do 2.5D work (aka cut a groove a 1/4" deep following this path with this work offset from a dxf file. It gets a bit more complicated when you throw in more advanced programs and 3D contouring etc.
Not only do you need to know CNC and machining, but you're going to want to start thinking about production machining. You'll be making a ton of these parts to sell I assume. Unless you get a ridiculously fancy 5+ axis machine (which you're not with the tormach) you're going to have to optimize your machining for efficiency. How are you going to run your parts? Can you make jigs and fixtures to ease in production. You'll probably learn most of that on your own along with lots of web surfing and time spent making parts. Scour the internet for how people make similar stuff. Learn from other peoples successes and mistakes.
> How much play in your motor shaft is there? How much runout is there on the bit at the collet? How much at the end of the bit? How much at the front and back of the collet pocket?
Enough that I can move it about .5(?) mm side to side with my finger. When I try to make a dot on my copper clad board I get a circle that's roughly the same diameter. What's a collet pocket?
> Ideally there should be zero play in your shaft, but on cheaper stuff that isn't always the case. (Like, literally zero: bearings should have some preload from installation.)
Yeah, this is a super cheap motor. I'm using one of these.
> Other possibilities: Are you using the right size and type of collet, properly installed? Is everything clean and free of dirt, dust, debris, etc.?
Yeah, I'm sure I'm using the proper collet, but I've ordered another set just to be sure. This is the collet set I have, and and these are the bits I'm using. I know these have been successfully used by others. I chose my parts off this home brew machine, but actually designed my own setup.
The SFU1605 and SFU2005 are just ballscrew designations, SFU is single nut, there is also DFU which is double nut, bit lower backlash, higher cost. The 16 or 20 designates the screw diameter in mm and the 05 is 5mm of lead per rotation.
I don't think you will have luck with the -12 volt line, you can try the boost converter at 24 volts or run it at 12 volts, just have a bit lower top speed. amazon also sell fairly inexpensive power supplies.
It may also make sense to build a small test machine with a design like this to learn a bit more about the undertaking and have less invested in materials if you need/want to change something.
Also if you are located in Minnesota near the twin cities I might be able to help make some parts for the build.
Happy to help, always nice seeing more people interested.
Any CAM software will work, but you'll need to do some investigation into post-processors.
Every machine is a little bit different on how it interprets the G-code that the CAM program is outputing, and the post-processor translates that CAM output to machine input.
As for the physical connection, they make adapters to go from the RS232 (25 pin) connector to a standard DB-9 serial connection, and most desktop computers have serial ports (or at least when shopping for one, make sure it's got one).
If you don't have a serial port on the PC, you can try a USB->Serial adapter. They usually work pretty well, but the power on them is limited, and some very old machines want more voltage than they can supply. In that case, you'll need a serial PCI card, but those again are very cheap and very available on amazon.
___
Failing all of that, you can use the built in Hypervisor in Windows 10 to run a Windows XP virtual machine (VM), which although not secure, will run reliably. Then you can just re-load BobCAD with your current setup and ta-da, new hardware with old software. This is a last-ditch effort though, since XP pokes security holes in your network.
Wao CncGeek! Thank you for all your help.
I will see the videos and examine the test cuts.
I have a standard carving V bit with one flute.
http://www.amazon.com/Zen-Toolworks-Shaped-Carving-Bit/dp/B003T40XLK
My feed rate is set at 40mm.
I agree with the deflection on the spring loaded.
My milling plan is to go deep on one side of the screen and then just 0.125 deep on the front side to get the best details.
Will test and get back with results.
Kudos to you
You might want to check the output of your controller just to make sure that the problem isn't deeper. Idk what anything is supposed to measure, but if you compare the z outputs to the x or y outputs it should be pretty easy to figure out if something is wrong. If you don't have a multi meter you can get a pretty basic one for ~$10. Or if you have good neighbors you can probably borrow one -- it is standard kit in most middle-aged men's toolboxes.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multimeter-MSR-R500-Electronic-Multimeters/dp/B01N9QW620?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_15707471_1&pf_rd_p=2bd56caf-41c7-5afe-a16b-f91d83e8f5ca&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=15707471&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=RWEXC9AQXED7VJG8FQE0&pf_rd_r=RWEXC9AQXED7VJG8FQE0&pf_rd_p=2bd56caf-41c7-5afe-a16b-f91d83e8f5ca
Yeah. I've had luck with just sanding in different directions to cover tool marks (extrusion marks in my case) and end up with a decent-looking finish. Not mirror-bright, but not bad.
For cavities, they might try a cone-shaped abrasive tool in a dremel or power drill. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ARBUMDC
Maybe other dremel attachments could work out here too. Like felt bobs for the final polish.
cc/ /u/vladoportos
-D
I've used 3 or so different pci and pcie parallel Port cards and they never seem to work with Mach 3. Not sure why but I've never had any success. I've had good success with this adapter though :
https://www.amazon.com/CNCdrive-UC100-Parallel-Motion-Controller/dp/B00TPBGXII
So when you cast something, the original is called the master. Im saying you could make a negative of the shapes you need of out something like
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQAOLeOwg-k
You use plaster so you can finish any imperfections by hand so they dont appear in your master. then you cast the plaster piece in silicone.
As silicone can get VERY expensive, if you are just starting out I'd use a low temp resin and a recastable mold material like https://www.amazon.com/ComposiMold-Used-3lbs-Reusable-Making/dp/B01NBMEKWA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_201_img_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K7MYRAMF5YJGR5TVS9B5
I've been really happy with these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07416BKDJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Get ya one of these compression bits. A compression bit has upcut geometry on the bottom to give a clean cut on your bottom surface and downcut geometry to give a clean edge on the top surface of your sheet. You will need to figure out what RPM your spindle is turning in order to get the correct feed rate for your setup. I run this bit at 18,500 rpm and feed at 180 inches per minute for a nice clean cut top and bottom on 1/4" ply. Be sure to use "climb cutting" as this also helps prevent tearout.
Also, material matters. Cheap shitty luan always cuts worse than better quality birch ply.
I'm still learning myself. This book has been incredibly useful.
CNC Programming Handbook, Third Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/0831133473/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_S64kDbT3R6PQ6
I recommend the UC100 for applications such as this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPBGXII/
Do not have any CAM software in your shop, or are just doing this one job by hand to learn? If it's the former then that's disappointing because there are many inexpensive CAM programs for simple 2D stuff .
If it's the latter, then a really good book would be CNC Programming Handbook by Peter Smid. It covers damn near everything about CNC milling and turning, from machine kinematics to G-Code.
This book?
http://www.amazon.com/Programming-Handbook-Third-Peter-Smid/dp/0831133473/ref=la_B001IU4QEM_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1421716024&sr=1-1
Also get your hands on a copy of CNC programing handbook by Peter Smid.
http://www.amazon.com/CNC-Programming-Handbook-Third-Edition/dp/0831133473