Best products from r/CNC

We found 28 comments on r/CNC discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 99 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top comments mentioning products on r/CNC:

u/akumpf · 17 pointsr/CNC

I've been looking into this space (best medium-cost maker/builder/fab tools) over the past couple of months, and here are my recommendations so far...

  • CNC Mill (router) - For doing wood, plastic, and some light metal work, the Shapeoko 3 stands above the rest. It runs around $1.2k with a router included and can cut 16"x16"x3". You'll still need mill/router bits and materials, but pretty awesome for the price range. Note that they also just started selling larger versions (goes up to 33"x33"x3") for a few hundred dollars more. To move up to the next professional level but still on a budget, I'd consider building your own via CNCRouterParts Pro Kits (48”x48”x12”, $8k total).

  • 3D Printer - The LulzBot TAZ 5 stands above the rest because of the range of materials it can print (with a special high temperature hot end) and its build area (11.7”x10.8”x9.8”). It's recently been reviewed by Make as the "Best Overall 3D Printer" which is a pretty high endorsement. It runs a little expensive ($2.2k) but looks like it's one of the best bets if you're looking to get into 3D printing.

  • Lathe - You can get a mini lathe (7”x16”, $1.3k) in the price range you're considering, and while it may be a bit too speciality and manual, they're a great tool to have in your workshop. Especially if you like making round things.

  • Laser Cutter - To get a decent laser cutter (not just engraving, but actually cutting materials) that won't break down, catch fire, release noxious fumes, or potentially blind you is currently around $4k minimum. There are a lot of cheap "eBay" laser cutters out there, but when you start to add up everything and weigh the risks they aren't really all that much cheaper. The two stand out models I've been considering are the FullSpectrum (40W, $6k) and the "coming soon" Glowforge Pro (45W, $4.8k).

  • Electronics - You didn't mention this, but if you're looking at getting your hands dirty making things, electronics is now a pretty crucial component to support. The big ticket items (like an oscilloscope) are now a lot more reasonable than they were even 5 years ago and sites like SparkFun carry a lot of electronic components and tutorials that make it easy to get started even if you don't have much background in circuitry (yet!). My short list would include: a Rigol 50MHz, 4Chan, color disp, 4 probe oscilloscope ($450), a nice Weller soldering iron ($320), a soldering fume extractor ($70), some helping hands ($10), a Siglent signal generator ($360), and some nice boxes to keep your parts sorted ($20).

    Now go make some awesome things!
u/voltaic · 2 pointsr/CNC

Sounds like a cool project, probably more suited to the hobby CNC subreddit: /r/hobbycnc , but I'm still happy to throw in my 2 cents here.

Instead of building up trucks with threaded rod / bearings / nuts, and using an aluminum tube for your linear motion, I would highly recommend using off the shelf linear bearings and shafting. The proliferation of the hobbyist DIY CNC / 3D Printer segment has flooded the market with cheap linear motion components. It's still going to be a bit more than your proposed solution, but I think it would be worth it - you'll save yourself a lot of frustration and end up with a better performing solution, even using the cheapest off the shelf components. Something like these, for example:

  • Linear Bearing
  • Linear Motion Rail

    For the gear rack / spur gear: Do the individual "blocks" the louvers are attached to need to move independently of each other, or can they all move ganged? I'm assuming you need the independent linear motion, but just in case you don't, it would be much cheaper to use one motor to turn a single leadscrew that runs the full length of the machine axially and have a nut on each "block".

    Assuming you need the independent linear movement, your use of a gear rack is a good solution. You mentioned wanting to use NEMA17 motors but were unable to locate a gear that would fit on the 5mm shaft. McMaster has brass spur gears with the DP and PA to match your rack with a .1875" bore, however they're brass, not stainless:

  • 7880k31

    You'd obviously have to ream the bore to fit a 5mm shaft, but that shouldn't be much of an issue. If you can't live with brass, and you can't find a 32DP 20° spur gear with an appropriate bore elsewhere, you could always turn down a bushing to press fit on the 5mm motor shaft to make the larger bore spur gear work. If you're not paying for your time to make the bushings, the material cost for that is going to be a lot less than the price delta between the NEMA17 and NEMA23 steppers.

    Also, if the "blocks" are moving independently of each other, you probably want to put limit switches on them to prevent them from running into each other and trashing your steppers / gears / whatever else.

    Lastly, I'd try to avoid using the 2x2 wood stud for that structural component. Structural timber like that is terribly unstable and not dimensionally accurate at all, I can see it causing you issues - take a look at 80/20 aluminum extrusions for those structural components. They're obviously more expensive than wood, but you can find good deals on eBay (the actual manufacturer of 80/20 even has an eBay store where they sell surplus / off cuts / scratch & dent / etc.: 8020-Inc-Garage-Sale)

    Anyway, hope some of that is helpful. Like I said, looks like a cool project, and I think it's certainly achievable, even without taking any of my suggestions on board. Oh, and BTW - nice looking rendering you made there!
u/Sum_Dum_Guy · 1 pointr/CNC

Knowing that he made a 4 ft x 4 ft cnc machine, I would venture to guess it would be a cnc router and he is planning to mainly cut wood and maybe some aluminum. That said I really wouldn't buy expensive machinist tools if you wanted to better budget your money.


Here are some stuff that can be made on a cnc router:
http://www.shopbottools.com/mSupport/projects.htm


I'm assuming he may have told you what kind of stuff he could build or wanted to build when he said he wanted to build one. If it was for wood projects, then you can get a good 6 in. digital caliper under $40, such as these:


http://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W
I have the large readout version of that one by the way.


Not sure what he plans to use for clamping his stuff down to the table, but here's a great option:
http://www.rockler.com/hold-down-clamp-5-1-2l-x-1-1-8w


OK, you built a cnc router, but what do you make? Here are some 3D files for purchase:
http://www.vectorart3d.com/


This 3D router bit set will work for sign making (not sure what diameter bit he needs, and also add some spiral bits)

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-3-pc-signmaking-router-bit-set

This is a great work shop apron because these shoulder straps are more comfortable than the ones the just go around your neck. Also the mesh pockets let saw dust fall out instead of collecting in there.

http://m.duluthtrading.com/store/mens/mens-workshop/tool-bags-tool-belts/85021.aspx

If your not sure what he plans to cut them a gift card is always welcomed.

u/theholyraptor · 2 pointsr/CNC

I'm glad you have machining experience. People who come online and "have no experience" but want to learn always have me wondering. Learning CNC can be a challenge depending on the person but you need ot know how to machine and the intimacies of what is possible, how to hold your work, feeds and speeds etc in addition to learning CNC.

This book is somewhat of a bible on cnc programming though it's pretty dense. If you get the machine, it shouldn't be to hard to pick up basic movements (especially 2axis or 2.5axis G code by hand. Programs like CamBam will do 2.5D work (aka cut a groove a 1/4" deep following this path with this work offset from a dxf file. It gets a bit more complicated when you throw in more advanced programs and 3D contouring etc.

Not only do you need to know CNC and machining, but you're going to want to start thinking about production machining. You'll be making a ton of these parts to sell I assume. Unless you get a ridiculously fancy 5+ axis machine (which you're not with the tormach) you're going to have to optimize your machining for efficiency. How are you going to run your parts? Can you make jigs and fixtures to ease in production. You'll probably learn most of that on your own along with lots of web surfing and time spent making parts. Scour the internet for how people make similar stuff. Learn from other peoples successes and mistakes.

u/RedMushtoom · 1 pointr/CNC

> How much play in your motor shaft is there? How much runout is there on the bit at the collet? How much at the end of the bit? How much at the front and back of the collet pocket?

Enough that I can move it about .5(?) mm side to side with my finger. When I try to make a dot on my copper clad board I get a circle that's roughly the same diameter. What's a collet pocket?

> Ideally there should be zero play in your shaft, but on cheaper stuff that isn't always the case. (Like, literally zero: bearings should have some preload from installation.)

Yeah, this is a super cheap motor. I'm using one of these.

> Other possibilities: Are you using the right size and type of collet, properly installed? Is everything clean and free of dirt, dust, debris, etc.?

Yeah, I'm sure I'm using the proper collet, but I've ordered another set just to be sure. This is the collet set I have, and and these are the bits I'm using. I know these have been successfully used by others. I chose my parts off this home brew machine, but actually designed my own setup.

u/SilentJohn4041 · 1 pointr/CNC

The SFU1605 and SFU2005 are just ballscrew designations, SFU is single nut, there is also DFU which is double nut, bit lower backlash, higher cost. The 16 or 20 designates the screw diameter in mm and the 05 is 5mm of lead per rotation.

I don't think you will have luck with the -12 volt line, you can try the boost converter at 24 volts or run it at 12 volts, just have a bit lower top speed. amazon also sell fairly inexpensive power supplies.

It may also make sense to build a small test machine with a design like this to learn a bit more about the undertaking and have less invested in materials if you need/want to change something.

Also if you are located in Minnesota near the twin cities I might be able to help make some parts for the build.

Happy to help, always nice seeing more people interested.

u/MiataCory · 1 pointr/CNC

Any CAM software will work, but you'll need to do some investigation into post-processors.

Every machine is a little bit different on how it interprets the G-code that the CAM program is outputing, and the post-processor translates that CAM output to machine input.

As for the physical connection, they make adapters to go from the RS232 (25 pin) connector to a standard DB-9 serial connection, and most desktop computers have serial ports (or at least when shopping for one, make sure it's got one).

If you don't have a serial port on the PC, you can try a USB->Serial adapter. They usually work pretty well, but the power on them is limited, and some very old machines want more voltage than they can supply. In that case, you'll need a serial PCI card, but those again are very cheap and very available on amazon.

___
Failing all of that, you can use the built in Hypervisor in Windows 10 to run a Windows XP virtual machine (VM), which although not secure, will run reliably. Then you can just re-load BobCAD with your current setup and ta-da, new hardware with old software. This is a last-ditch effort though, since XP pokes security holes in your network.

u/cexdance · 1 pointr/CNC

Wao CncGeek! Thank you for all your help.

I will see the videos and examine the test cuts.
I have a standard carving V bit with one flute.
http://www.amazon.com/Zen-Toolworks-Shaped-Carving-Bit/dp/B003T40XLK
My feed rate is set at 40mm.

I agree with the deflection on the spring loaded.
My milling plan is to go deep on one side of the screen and then just 0.125 deep on the front side to get the best details.

Will test and get back with results.
Kudos to you

u/nosmokingbandit · 2 pointsr/CNC

You might want to check the output of your controller just to make sure that the problem isn't deeper. Idk what anything is supposed to measure, but if you compare the z outputs to the x or y outputs it should be pretty easy to figure out if something is wrong. If you don't have a multi meter you can get a pretty basic one for ~$10. Or if you have good neighbors you can probably borrow one -- it is standard kit in most middle-aged men's toolboxes.

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Multimeter-MSR-R500-Electronic-Multimeters/dp/B01N9QW620?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_15707471_1&pf_rd_p=2bd56caf-41c7-5afe-a16b-f91d83e8f5ca&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=15707471&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=RWEXC9AQXED7VJG8FQE0&pf_rd_r=RWEXC9AQXED7VJG8FQE0&pf_rd_p=2bd56caf-41c7-5afe-a16b-f91d83e8f5ca

u/duerig · 2 pointsr/CNC

Yeah. I've had luck with just sanding in different directions to cover tool marks (extrusion marks in my case) and end up with a decent-looking finish. Not mirror-bright, but not bad.

For cavities, they might try a cone-shaped abrasive tool in a dremel or power drill. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ARBUMDC

Maybe other dremel attachments could work out here too. Like felt bobs for the final polish.

cc/ /u/vladoportos

-D

u/bm6616 · 1 pointr/CNC

I've used 3 or so different pci and pcie parallel Port cards and they never seem to work with Mach 3. Not sure why but I've never had any success. I've had good success with this adapter though :

https://www.amazon.com/CNCdrive-UC100-Parallel-Motion-Controller/dp/B00TPBGXII

u/kainel · 3 pointsr/CNC

So when you cast something, the original is called the master. Im saying you could make a negative of the shapes you need of out something like

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQAOLeOwg-k

You use plaster so you can finish any imperfections by hand so they dont appear in your master. then you cast the plaster piece in silicone.

As silicone can get VERY expensive, if you are just starting out I'd use a low temp resin and a recastable mold material like https://www.amazon.com/ComposiMold-Used-3lbs-Reusable-Making/dp/B01NBMEKWA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_201_img_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K7MYRAMF5YJGR5TVS9B5

u/unabiker · 1 pointr/CNC

Get ya one of these compression bits. A compression bit has upcut geometry on the bottom to give a clean cut on your bottom surface and downcut geometry to give a clean edge on the top surface of your sheet. You will need to figure out what RPM your spindle is turning in order to get the correct feed rate for your setup. I run this bit at 18,500 rpm and feed at 180 inches per minute for a nice clean cut top and bottom on 1/4" ply. Be sure to use "climb cutting" as this also helps prevent tearout.

Also, material matters. Cheap shitty luan always cuts worse than better quality birch ply.

u/69autismo69 · 2 pointsr/CNC

I'm still learning myself. This book has been incredibly useful.

CNC Programming Handbook, Third Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/0831133473/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_S64kDbT3R6PQ6

u/ajquick · 1 pointr/CNC

I recommend the UC100 for applications such as this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TPBGXII/

u/franknbeans27 · 15 pointsr/CNC

Do not have any CAM software in your shop, or are just doing this one job by hand to learn? If it's the former then that's disappointing because there are many inexpensive CAM programs for simple 2D stuff .

If it's the latter, then a really good book would be CNC Programming Handbook by Peter Smid. It covers damn near everything about CNC milling and turning, from machine kinematics to G-Code.

u/351322 · 1 pointr/CNC

Also get your hands on a copy of CNC programing handbook by Peter Smid.

http://www.amazon.com/CNC-Programming-Handbook-Third-Edition/dp/0831133473