Best products from r/CR10

It honestly depends on your budget, how much are you willing to spend?

Here is a great list of prep and upgrades you can do to bring success to your prints:

-Get Vibration Dampners: I can not express how much joy these things have brought many users. The make your machine quiet and greatly decrease ringing in your prints since they ABSORB the vibration coming from your stepper motors. You really only need Two of these for the X and Y axis however you can get another two for the Z-axis drives if you plan on doing a lot of z-hopping.

-BUY FILAMENT IN ADVANCE: get some PLA/ABS/PETG or whatever you want to try printing with. The filament you get with the printer for the most part is garbage HOWEVER I recommend dialing in those settings first then throwing on some nice filament, it'll feel soooo nice. Some commonly accepted/appreciated brands are: eSun PLA+, Hatchbox, Solutech and more

-Get a PEI sheet: Seems like you mentioned this in your post but PEI sheets eliminate the use of gluesticks/tape/hairspray and provide excelent adhesion while making it easy to remove the part after it's cool. This things like to be hot though so increase your bed temp a little at first

-Buy New Fans: The stock hotend/power unit fans are Loud, Noisy and Inefficient. I recommend getting 1 new conrol box fan, 1 new hot end fan and 1 new part blower fan.
You will need 1 40mm fan, 1 50mm fan and a Blower fan or another 40/50mm fan depending on if you print a new hot end mount like a fang.

-Tighten every screw on the printer: You would be surprised how many screws initially are lose either from prior testing or such. Also make sure to test your belt tensions on your printer whne you get it. You want everything tight BUT NOT TOO TIGHT. Give it a snug fit then let it be. Also make sure your belts are 'pluckable' like a guitar string but not tought

-Get some bearings: You may want to get a few ball bearings for when you print out a new filament holder, the stock filament holder is terrible

-Buy some fasteners: M3 bolts and nuts are commonly used on the CR-10S having spares or additional fasteners for adding on parts/printed components to your printer is awesome to have on hand

-Replace the Hotend: This can get a bit frustrating but it can be worth it. If you want you can replace the hotend with something like a volcano or an all metal hot end to print at higher temperatures. With this you can also add on autoleveling if you have the correct mount printed

-Octoprint: I am not very familiar with octoprint since I don't use it myself however I know it can run on a CR-10S. If you want look into how to install octoprint on stock firmware, I know it's pretty easy to use a raspberrypi to remote into your printer as well using octoprint.

-Squash Feet: Replacing your stock machine 'feet' with squash balls or squishy gold balls can also help absorb vibrations from your machine to your table or where it is located. This helps a bit with part quality but it's mostly to reduce the noise carried through your furniture.

-Solder on connectors: If you want you can get some pin connectors to make your fans/electronics easy to switch out depending on your material you are printing, maybe you need a strong part fan or maybe you need a weaker one. It is easy to swap out if it's using a 4pin connector.

-Make an Enclosure: What could be nicer for your printer than a stable environment. Making an enclosure for your printer can help if you live in a rough climate area or if you want to reduce the noise as well.

-Get some Handtools: I'm not sure if you have any or not but some great tools to have are a screwdriver, hexwrenches and a soldering iron depending on how much work you want to be doing on your printer.

For convenience I've added some of the parts mentioned via an Amazon link for prices. I'm not saying buy these things exactly they are just a starting point for reference:

Nima Vibration Dampners:https://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Rubber-Vibration-Dampers-Printer/dp/B073FRZTDX/

40mm Fan (Noctua Brand): https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-FLX-premium-quality-quiet/dp/B072JK9GX6/

Blower Fan (Part Fans):https://www.amazon.com/SoundOriginal-Humidifier-Aromatherapy-Appliances-Replacement/dp/B071WMHNG5/

PEI Sheet/Printer Surface:https://www.amazon.com/CCTREE-Printer-Surface-Creality-300x300mm/dp/B07543KHCT/

Squash Feet: https://www.amazon.com/PrideSports-Practice-Balls-Count-Yellow/dp/B00466W9X0/

M3 Bolts/Nuts:https://www.amazon.com/280Pcs-Grade12-9-Socket-Assortment-Storage/dp/B0742DDLQ1/

Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint: https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASPBERRYPI3-MODB-1GB-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92/

Ball Bearings: https://www.amazon.com/625ZZ-Shielded-Groove-Precision-Bearings/dp/B01LWMT95S/

Hope this helps, have fun tinkering!

I did that too...

I started with the masking tape under the glass. I even printed the Wedge Jack for the dip in center.

Next I replaced the glass with a mirror I purchased at Michaels crafts.

Results improved...but still had a first layer sticking problem from time to time.

Next up was the masking tape on TOP of the mirror -- I did this on the glass too. Did I forget to mention that detail? We were pretty close but removing things from tape -- ouch it was rough and always messed up the tape.

I moved on to putting this on my mirror. So far it has been the best combination of flat + adhesion and I get good prints.

I usually start first layer slow and if the print is small, I slow things down for a bit before there is a few layers down -- than I turn that knob and give it a whirl.

Some prints just like to test my patience and start off poor and I scrap and restart. Heat/cold in the room has affected my prep -- I have found 60 bed/200 tip for PLA has worked best.

If I did it all over -- given everything I have learned -- I would spend more $$ and consider a Prusa perhaps. I'd need to find out who best supported the flat bed.

Other than that the print quality of CR10S is amazing -- and prototypes are cranking out. I am building a gizmo -- and I thought it would be better to be able to just print my designs rather than get them mailed. When I look back at all this -- I think I ended up investing more time in printing than I would have waiting for the mail to arrive. But the adventure was fun.

Patience and good luck!

Best thing to do is get some Mirror Tiles at any Home Improvement store. Cheap and flat (who wants a wavy mirror? LOL).

Lowes in the US has them $9 for Six. I had two not flat but 4 fine. Home Depot and Ace Hardware also have them IKEA is another source.

>Athorbot adhesive mats - Those are a knockoff clone of the BuildTak mats. They're OK, but do wear out.

I went down that road last year, ended up using PEI on my printers and haven't looked back:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XLD5QH

Sticks well when warm or hot, releases almost instantly when cool.

But BEFORE any of this works your Bed needs to be flat,most machines it's NOT. (Not the glass, the Aluminium bed).

A quick check with a known straight edge (like a 24" machinist's rule) will let you see. Put it edge on with a well lit white wall or sheet of paper and check the bed, front to rear, also side to side.

Most have a dip in the center, some are raised in the center.

Unless the glass is VERY thick, it will dip when clipped to the bed.

I did a couple posts / comments about how to properly flatten the bed. It's a bit of work, but you'll do your happy dance when it's nice & flat.

Most adhesion & first layer issues are caused by an unflat and un-trammed (proper name for "leveled") bed. Probably 50-60% of the "Help Me!" posts are this!

With a properly trammed bed you don't need glue or Hairspray, or tape or other "goop" in 90% of the cases. You can actually print straight onto the glass or PEI, many do. (including MOI) Super smooth bottoms.

Here's' the posts, first, some basics:

https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/86c47m/psa_a_must_read_by_anyone_who_levels_their_bed_or/

Then follow this to tram the bed:

https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7rpq2x/can_i_simulate_a_print_without_damaging_the/

Let us know how it goes!! Trust me, it's worth the effort.

PuterPro

The radial fan on the stock part cooling is pretty good, what it does need though is a new duct to redirect air under the nozzle, not just on the nozzle.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2221647

That one is simple but works, just face detailed face of print towards that if you need some help there with overhangs.

But to your question you could print this

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2473423

Then in the top you can replace the radial fan with one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-FLX-premium-quality-quiet/dp/B072JK9GX6/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518481382&sr=1-5&keywords=noctua+30mm&dpID=51QAkMvTrXL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

There's a switch to fine tune it so you can put it to medium at 4400 rpm and that should be pretty good, you could try higher but I think that'll be a bit too high, bright side is that Noctua FLX fan with the 3 settings also has an omnijoin in the kit.


Also I think the heatbreak fan will come with 4 of those omnijoins and I think you only need 2, so you could probably just use the other 2 for the part cooling fan and choose whichever you like.

OK - the 1st one lists itself as a CR-10 S5, which has a 500x600x500 build area. What is listed is the base CR-10 with a 300x300x400 build area. It's also NOT the "S" version which has lots of upgrades: mainly a filament sensor, a second motor for the z axis and has a Atmega 2560 instead of Atmega 1280 for the controller board.

The 2nd one lists itself as a base CR-10 and by all appearances seems to be one.

Seeing how a CR-10 sells for $499 on Amazon, this seems to be a good deal. You'd have to look at the eBay vendor's feedback to see if they are delivering what they advertise. It seems like the $400 price isn't out of the range of what they cost coming straight from China, but is on the low end so be careful.

Honestly, I'd strongly recommend getting the CR-10S as they upgrades, especially the board, are well worth it. They sell on Amazon for $599 https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Printer-Filament-Monitor-300x300x400mm/dp/B074QLQSQV and the Hictop is a solid build as far as CR10S go. You cold probably find a better deal on one from overseas.

If that price is too steep for you, and you are OK with a smaller bed size the Monoprice Select Mini is another good starter printer. For $220 you get a heck of a lot of printer: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Printer-Heated-Filament/dp/B01FL49VZE

I am using a build surface called Athorbot. It sells in a package of 3 and was only $16 on Amazon. In the past I've printed with BuildTak and PEI on my other printers. I prefer BuildTak to PEI, because with PEI I'm always adding chemicals to it (IPA to clean, Gluestick to reduce adhesion with Flex, Windex to Reduce adhesion with PETG, etc.). I have no idea how good the Arthorbot sheet is, but I've seen people on this sub with it and they seem to like it, so I thought I'd give it a try. It's cheap as chips- so if it doesn't work out, no problem!

The filament I prefer for my flex parts is Sainsmart TPU. I would definitely recommend using some gluestick as /u/PuterPro mentions, because otherwise you'll never get it off, or damage your sheet. I've actually managed to tear up my PEI before because of over adhesion. To be honest, I've also ruined a BuildTak sheet with it, but that was because I was printing too close. (Fortunately, BuildTak is super easy to replace compared to PEI). To clean off the gluestick residue after the print, use a wet (water) paper towel. Don't just rub it with IPA, as it will make an even bigger mess.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

Wow, thanks for going though that!

Though I'm going with the advice that almost everyone is saying on this post and wait for the printer to arrive.

That said, I'm going to buy the dampeners anyway because I'm in an apartment that the walls are thinner than most apartments in my area. I know that it's a 3-5 db difference based on what I read, but the lower the sound, the better.

I'm going with these dampeners

​

I'm also going to get the M3 Scews anyway as well just to have spares.

> My glass was warped. I used the tape it came with to flatten it but then got the mirror.

if the glass bed is warped when it arrives, I'll get a mirror tile after making sure that the printer is working fine.

> Mine came with large knobs already. And the print bed strain relief for the wires.

I've been told now that this is the case. Though I did buy this from the GearBest US Warehouse so I don't know if what they have is the latest. though I guess I'll find out on Thursday.

> I'm still using the stock clips. Or you could print new ones.

I wasn't aware that stock came with clips! So I'm going to skip getting clips until the printer arrives.

> Maybe. I've been using a mirror from Home Depot and it's been ok. I saw the creality magnetic mounted surface was only $22 on amazon so I actually ordered that today.

Can you let me know how that goes? I was wondering about those too.

> Mine came with the upgraded extruder that works better with TPU and such. The holes already started wearing larger though where the filament fed so I got a $20 aluminum setup.

did you order those upgrades or are they on the printer?

> I'm using this new hot end vent ring too this week and been liking it. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2912394

Dumb question but are you using PLA or ABS for that vent ring? Just curious.

​

Thank you so much for the advice!

It's a Creality printer, its just being sold through a company called HICTOP. I'm sure it's fine no matter where you get it from, but mine worked really well right out of the box. https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Creality-Printer-Filament-300x300x400mm/dp/B074QLQSQV/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1542812784&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=creality+cr-10s+hictop&psc=1

​

I do recommend looking into upgrading the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9 sometime down the road though so you can ensure you have thermal runaway protection enabled. It can be a little tricky at times, but this community is incredibly helpful as is r/3Dprinting and r/FixMyPrint. Good luck with the new printer! I love my CR-10S and post prints from it on Reddit from time to time.

I actually just ordered this inductive sensor from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1777XK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . In the reviews someone used it with success on our machine and said it was a significant improvement. Looks like an easy install by cutting and splicing the wires near the sensor. Seems like many people have success with this.

​

I'll check out the tinymonsters firmware, that also seems to be pretty popular. Is there any functional difference? Or is it just better behind the scenes?

1. Motor stopper dampeners. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C7FRLNX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These will greatly reduce sound on your machine.
   
2. X and Y motor supports Y = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2845950 X = https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2793110 with dampeners. This'll help alleviate belt tension on the motor/belts and quiet the pritner even more. You'll need some M3x40mm screws for this.
   
3. Flash the firmware with Marlin and enable the heat runaway options. This will stop the printer from burning down your house if a critical error occurs. https://www.printedsolid.com/blogs/news/installing-marlin-1-1-9-on-your-cr-10s-with-mesh-bed-leveling-thermal-protection-better-menu-layout-and-finally-power-resume
   
4. Add a Mirror tile to your bed. Most CR10s beds bow in the middle. Mirrors are totally flat, so just make a mirror your new print bed/print bed base.
   
5. Print the Petsfang upgrade https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 and get a Noctua 40mm fan. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JK9GX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a 50mm blower fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You can choose if you want the 10 or 20mm noctua fans. Petsfang page says all the screws you'll need.
   
6. Print some support stuff and get some rods to make supports. This'll reduce your print height by 20mm, but it'll greatly stabilize your printer when you do large prints, alleivating weird artifacting when the print gets higher up. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2805226
   
7. Get a better Boaing tube. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079P92HN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I'm not sure if this is the best out there.)
   
8. A steel wear resistant nozzle if you wanna print things other than PLA/TEPG.
   
9. A PEI plate to make it much easier to get prints off. Preferably a flexible one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RDQF7KQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
10. A spool mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2440814 which will lets you use bigger spools all while greatly reducing the amount of strain on the extruder and the noise that the filliment makes when it turns.
    
11. Control box cooling fan and base. I've yet to install this one myself as I'm not sure how to wire up the fans, but this'll greatly reduce fan noise and keep the control box super cool. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729888 It'll also remove the problem where if the print goes over 300mm in height where the filiment can sometimes snap due to strain.
    
12. A BLTouch to make bed leveling automatic more or less. I've yet to install this myself. https://www.amazon.com/ANTCLABS-BLTouch-Leveling-Premium-Extension/dp/B076PQG1FF/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bltouch&qid=1562832293&s=industrial&sr=1-3
    
    ​
    
    Anyone got any others?

E3D V6 hotend

Noctua fan for hotend cooling (I hosed the original using a heat gun to assist bed temps for ABS) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap as hell 5015 2 pack part cooling blowers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This kickass heavy duty customizable mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642 printed in PETG

I replaced my hotend with a microswiss right away and jacked up both it and the original, but learned a lesson and added plugs to everything. Hotends usually come with crimpable plugs, but they're all different so I standardized on these for fans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5AHF0Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this type (xt60) for the hotend cuz current https://www.amazon.com/Female-Connector-Housing-Silicon-Battery/dp/B073QJWVVK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517496061&sr=8-5&keywords=xt60+connectors

All of the plugs made my wiring kinda fat, so when you join the Bowden tube, the wiring, and the ezabl cord its just heavy enough to droop lower than the gantry and get rubbed back and forth during prints. I designed a chain link style support in blender that anchors at the extruder and velcro'd the bundle to it. It allows free xy movement but not z. It works really well but could prolly be optimized. 😃

My printer came with the bed heater wiring strain relief already printed and installed, definitely do so. Also, get a dial gauge. Seriously. Print a gantry mount for it and slip it on to use it when needed.

Check that the screw that holds the spring arm on your extruder hasn't backed out. The first time I encountered this problem my prints looked exactly like yours and it took me a couple days to figure it out. It will keep happening too, unless you change out the extruder. It's because you can't have that screw too tight or the arm won't apply pressure. So because it's a little loose, it will slowly work out over time, and there's not very many threads engaged in that hole, so the screw can wobble around.

The cheapest fix would be to install an all-metal replacement for around $13. If you look closely at the link I posted, you'll see that the spring arm has an insert for the screw that will allow you to tighten the screw all the way down but still allows the arm to rotate. I haven't had to re-tighten that screw since I installed it. It works great. Also, if you take a 5/32" drill bit and drill out the hole on the arm itself, you can insert a short piece of teflon tubing into it that will protect the filament from the leadscrew. You can just use a regular wood bit and hand drill. Aluminum drills super easy.

I finally got my cr10s pro where I don't have any issue with bed leveling anymore. Sound like you are having sensor issues. I had so many issues with inconstancy so I did many upgrades to get the printed more constant. This is what I did.

1. Glass bed - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PNV2LGP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   1. Prints stick better and is much easier to get a reliable first layer that looks the same every time.
      
   2. I did this upgrade at the same time as the BLtouch so I don't know how well the captive sensor will work on glass. My prints look much better now so I highly recommend upgrading the bed first.
      
   3. You can get glass cheaper elsewhere. You won't be able to use a inductive sensor if you use glass.
      
2. BLTouch v3 - More reliable and constant than the captive sensor. Works on glass.
   
   1. There is mixed information when it comes to the V3 sensor as when they first came out there were config issues. Use the instructions below.
      
   2. The wiring that is needed for the V3 is found here. Note that you will need to use the jumper. https://www.antclabs.com/creality3d-board
      
   3. Flash the B7 BLtouch firmware. Found here. https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/Creality_DWINTest
      
3. Level the gantry using two of these - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3384054
   
   1. I loosed the gantry screws. I had to take the gantry off to do this for both sides.
      
   2. Put both prints in place to make sure the gantry is level.
      
   3. Tightened all the screws.
      
   4. This guy talks about how to make sure the gantry is mechanically level. https://youtu.be/DI31OItLQ9w?t=715
      
4. Flashed the firmware found here. https://github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/Creality_DWINTest
   
   1. Use this resource page to help https://www.tinymachines3d.com/pages/10spro.
      
   2. Tinymachines also has great info on best practices for bed leveling.
      
5. I installed the Creawsomemod for Cura found here for a good starting profiles. https://github.com/trouch/CreawsomeMod

I'm very happy with my CR10S, but less so now that I saw the 10S pro lol. The pro looks soooo sleek, I think you made the right call! I'm looking at all my wires, no-abl, and separate psu/computer thingy and am a bit jealous of your pro's form factor. I would have gone in an extra 150 if it was available when I pulled the trigger. The Capricorn's a nice touch and all but its only 15 bucks or so.

I am quick to recommend stepper dampers, they make a huge difference in sound. I'm less familiar with the pro, esp the y axis. Check that these are the right size. They also aren't needed on the two z axis motors. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07415B39B/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

is what I have, and also just ordered some of these to test out https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/products/stepper-dampener

You kinda nailed it, the pro has a lot of stuff you'd buy already included. Make sure to get some filament! I thought I'd use what came with the printer, but I've found eSun PLA Pro to be easier to work with and troubleshoot out of the gate.

Very very cool!

I really feel like the auto bed leveling isn't that necessary. I level my bed every once in a great while, more because I've jiggered with the printer and feel like it might be out of whack than any pure necessity. It really does seem to maintain level pretty well with the stock glass bed.

1. Octoprint - a must
   
2. Vibration dampers on the X & Y steppers is really nice and cheap (z and extruder don't make as much noise). Something like this - My only problem was that the X stepper for my CR-10 mini has a fixed pulley that you can't take off. So I'll have to get a new stepper and pulley before I can put a damper on it. :-/
   
3. Spool Holder - the stock spool holder kind of sucks. Print something like this.
   
4. Replace the power supply fans with quieter ones. Seriously - they are so loud. This is a pretty good guide to silencing the CR-10 in general
   
   The CR-10 and CR-10 mini are mostly the same, I think the only real difference is the bed/frame dimensions. The mini is a pretty solid little printer, most of the upgrades are quality of life improvements more than anything.

Honestly, I would just buy a new fan. It's probably not worth the trouble to fix the cheap Chinese loud fan. I bought the Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX. It works fine, super quiet, no issues. Super easy to install, just follow this video. Hope I helped.

Extruder: get a microswiss hotend for it will be able to print flexible and other materials.
Parts cooling: Upgrade to the petsfang 5015 mod for better print cooling.
Auto bed leveling: Get the TH3D ezabl sensor for great bed leveling.
Other mods: motor dampers to reduce noise and vibration
To smoothers to smooth prints
Raspberry pi for octoprint
All metal extruder
Capricorn tubing
Hope I could help 😀
Links:
micro swiss hotend
petsfang part
ezabl sensor
motor dampers
tl smoothers
octoprint link
all metal extuder
capricorn tubing



Also this is what my petsfang with sensor looks like. https://i.imgur.com/sQahB69.jpg

I've spliced multiple accessories including led lighting into the 12v terminals of the cr-10x without any issue. Currently I'm printing with my bed at 65 degrees and print head at 210. I'm in the US on 120v drawing ~(2.6 after heating -3.15 amps during heating)/~220 watts. You can easily power multiple devices off the 12v terminals without any issue.

The readings above include includes:

12v Noctua Fan - https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

12v Proximity Sensor (ABL) - https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-LJC18A3-B-Z-1-10mm-Capacitance-Proximity/dp/B0756XDQM4

5v Lighting - Partial strip - https://www.amazon.com/Lighting-Control-Findyouled-Backlight-Monitors/dp/B01M28RKH5


I'm using a mix between Marlin 1.1.8 and the custom firmware provided by www.th3dstudio.com. (If your considering doing ABL and your not super familiar with electronics I highly recommend th3dstudio.com It's important to support the engineers/developers that bring the amazing improvements in 3d printing to the masses)

I usually use octoprint with pi3 or pi zero but for these readings I had nothing plugged into the micro usb port.

If you have any questions or need some more information about how I do my wiring I would be happy to help!

I replaced the stock glass with mirrored tiles from Home Depot. I used to use tape and glue sticks but read a comment on how much better PEI sheets were to print on. No more glue or tape, just rub it down with rubbing alcohol between prints.

It sticks very well when heated up, and comes off almost effortlessly when cooled down. You also get a shiny surface on the part touching the PEI sheet which is nice. Well worth $21 from Amazon.

Im a pro owner as well, and have also been on the improvement quest.

here a re a few Nexi youtube vids of upgrades he has done on his pro. as well i listed a few things i did to mine below.

​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VH3zrRNOGfA&t=186s this one is how to change the capacitive sensor to inductive.

​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hG8X26UtLVw this one shows ytou how to install T8 anti backlash nuts. (Great if you suffer from constant Z leveling.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lde-SSY4vtw&t=638s Quiet your printer down with high quality fan replacements i went with these https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

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https://youtu.be/DI31OItLQ9w there is also this 37 min review from NJ Tech where he goes over various upgrades and mods to his Pro, i found this video very relatable and a decent watch. though i do like Nexi's idea of voltage splitting to run the fans instead of voltage step downs. also prefer the MB cooler bracket from NJ's video over Nexi's.

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in addition to this stuff above in these videos(I have done most of these mods now), for me im running the TM firmware, with an Octoprint to control it, Wham Bam build plate on the way.

also have a permanent screen SD adapter installed with a cable that runs outside the case for easier repeat flashes. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JMTW1YD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I would also recommend a right angle USB cable to connect to Octo as i dont care for the stock cable that hangs way off the side of the printer just dying to get knocked off or broken.. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004NO0L4O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Hope this stuff helps you out!

Cheers.

I actually replaced my whole extrusion path.

First, I found that the spring in the stock extruder assembly would fatigue resulting in under extrusion and jams. The BMG is a little pricey but worth it IMO. Comes with pretty good instructions.

Second, I switched to a Micro-swiss all metal hot-end. I probably didn't need to do this - given I almost never print high-temp materials but did it anyway.

Last, cheapest, and not least, Capricorn Tubing. Do not underestimate the difference this can make.

If you're up to the challenge, I highly recommend a BLTouch. It completely solved my first layer woes (warped bed on my CR-10s).

Your hot end is not able to extrude the amount of filament you are trying to push into it.

you need to do one (or more) of the following:


the hot end hotter. ^1
to print slower. ^1
to sort out a clog (either full or partial.) ^2
calibrate the E steps and flow rate. ^3




----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

^1
Not all filaments are made equal, I've had rolls of PLA that print fine fast at 210, then others that will gum up the hot end at speed. The printer takes time getting up to speed so some filaments look fine when printing slow or small models. Long paths show this failure I've had filament refuse to print cleanly unless the hot end is set somewhere on the upper side of 225-235 - going to extremes with temp should only be considered after ruling out a clog e.g. a/b the misbehaving filament with another brand and have the other brand work fine at the lower temps/same speed.


^2
(make sure to replace the stock bowden couplers they are crap allow the tube to back out and will cause no end of clogs, something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07DC594D6/)
Follow this video on how to replace the nozzle paying close attention to the temperature everything is done at and the procedure to make sure the tube is snug with the nozzle. (to loose and you get goo, too tight and you'll squish the bowden tube and get clogs) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRzsGttNMyk
If you need to clean your nozzle (a big bag of 0.4 nozzles is a worthwhile investment and you can find them cheap on amazon) hold the nozzle in pliers and cooking off everything over a gas burner, use cocktail sticks to remove the majority of the gunk, get the rest out with the acupuncture needle the printer came with. - Needless to say this is all very hot and the plastic can catch fire and drip, so do it somewhere or over something non flammable and easy to clean, I do it over a ceramic stove top with gas burners.


^3

https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/

I'd make an addendum to the above instructions, ideally E-steps should be calibrated without filament running to the hot end, and the altered steps would look something like:

hot end at temp
remove filament completely
undo the bowden coupler
insert filament slightly into feeder,
cut filament flush at the hole the bowden coupler was in
extrude, measure, math, set e-steps,
cut filament flush
extrude, measure, math, set e-steps, save settings.

This way completely removes any sort of partial clog, variance in filament diameter size or issues downstream from the feeder assembly.

For those asking about a new hot end I would suggest E3D over Microswiss as someone whose had both. I got the microswiss first because I liked the idea of not having to print a mount for it or rewire. I regret that decision because I constantly had issues with clogs. The good part about e3d is there are tons of mounts for it. When you do rewire remember to use some JST Connectors so you can replace stuff at will.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M5AHF0Z?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

If you don’t like soldering pick up some of these while you’re at it:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DPS8DPM?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

With these it makes splicing in the jst connectors super simple and done in 30 minutes :)

1.75mm Light Blue PLA 3D Printer Filament - 1kg Spool (2.2 lbs) - Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CX8ZFJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m0b2Bb42ANP5M

I bought this. It matches pretty well and surprisingly I like the amazon filimant more than I thought I would.

This is the one that I got: Title of link (optional) I got a metal extruder housing as well but I honestly don't think it's necessary, just nifty.

I had issues with both the circulation fans in my Control boxmaking noise so i replace all of my fans. My psu was new so it was quiet to begin with.
Here are the fans i got. The noctua are higher than your range but they are high quality.

Hotend Fan 40x10mm

Control Box Back Fan 40x20mm

Mother Board Fan 50x10mm

Might be able to find these fans cheaper on other websites but they are the right sizes.

I'm using PEI on a mirror tile and it has been working great!
Maybe a little too well because I've broken a few parts by removing them in a hurry.

I found that sanding the PEI with 800 grit paper and alcohol gives the parts surface a nice satin finish and it holds really well.

I have two mirrors with PEI so I can swap them out quickly between prints. At the rate they are going, they should last well over a year and I'm running my printer almost 24/7.

It's multiples of 0.04, but it won't have a huge impact.

Regarding hair spray/glue stick etc... a PEI sheet will save you a lot of effort. You put it on top of the glass and then print directly on it, no need to do anything. Edit: and yes, as /u/PuterPro says, get your bed flat.

I would recommend contacting amazon through amazon chat and asking for a replacement as the item is defective. They will likely have you order another and send the first back. I got mine on amazon though mine it is a hictop version. Here is the link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074QLQSQV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also I would recommend this as well as the microsd card slot on the control box isnt the greatest and is going to be alot more expensive(time or money or both) to replace than this 8 dollar cable. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9JIUU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 You will need a microsd to sd card adapter for it though. I just find handling a sd card much easier than using the micro sd.

These guys: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Keep in mind, with stepper dampeners, squash feet, and the Noctua fan , My printer is entirely noiseless until the part cooling fan turns on, which makes it noisy by comparison. It actually just the sound of it blasing air through the holes. Also, I made a typo in my original post which changed the meaning. I've fixed it.

You can replace the sensor. This is courtesy of Jason Cook; sign up on facebook for the CR-10S user group and you can read his entire post there!

"Having trouble leveling the CR-10s Pro? Is the leveling sensor not repeatable and leaving you with bad first layers? Here is my solution:

1. Replace the leveling probe with an inductive probe. This one is a direct fit, all you have to do is install a new connector or change the connector from your old sensor. $8.99 on Amazon.
   
   URBEST 8mm Detecting Distance... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1777XK…
   
   

2. Install the Tiny Machines firmware. Search this group for more details.
   
   The probe is extremely repeatable and does not seem to be significantly affected by temperature or humidity. I have mine set so that it detects the bed 2mm high and then the tiny Machines firmware remembers the offset on a power cycle. It nails the first layer every time and when probing the bed, the nozzle is high enough that it does not leave plastic dots on the bed. I was always having to tinker with the old sensor settings and had a lot of bad prints. Now, I just hit print and it works perfectly every time.
   
   I hope this helps. I love printing with my CR-10S Pro now."

$4.84 - 1x Flexible Magnetic Sheet w/ Adhesive Backing

$27.76 - 1x Spring Steel Wear Resistant Sheet

$15.99 - 1x Pack of Athorbot 3d Printing Build Surface Sheets

For CR-10, this was a quality of life improvement and setup took minutes.

Install:

1. Remove binder clips and glass or whatever you print on. Smash it for the pain it has inflicted on you over the months.
   
   
2. Peel off backing from magnetic sheet, line it up with the build plate adhesive side down, and stick it on there.
   
   
3. Take an Athos ot build sheet and stick it to the spring steel sheet.
   
   
4. Line up your spring steel sheet with the printer bed with magnet sheet on top. Wham. Let them pull together.
   
   
5. Level bed and start printing
   
   
6. Never look back...
   
   
   Yes magnets lose polarity with heat but 6 months and no change for me. You could get the heat protected magnet sheet but I heard it's not very sturdy.
   
   Prints never move during printing and removal is as easy as peel metal build sheet away from magnet and flex it so the part pops off.

Mine worked great without having to scuff it at all. I just heat the bed to 60°, when the print is done and the bed cools down the print pops right off. Here is the link to the one I bought.

Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit for Creality CR-10 / CR10 / CR10S / Ender 2 / Ender 3 Ender 5 Printers .4mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789V2D7C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_J-AFDb6CRKAMW

Is this hot end considered a good upgrade. Right now I'm having clogging, a lot of stringing. And I'm levelled well and all my settings are pre-loaded with this auto-leveling print. I'm lost, i feel like things aren't flowing well.

If you are printing directly on the glass make sure it is clean. Oil from you touching it is bad. Clean with Isopropal Alcohol before a print.

I ended up buying a cheapie print surface from China. It is mind blowingly good. Now my problem is removing the prints if I am too impatient to let it cool down first.
Initiallly I could not remove the prints but I was being too impatient. I now swap out the print glass if i have to print something straight away, otherwise I have to just let it cool before removing the print.
https://www.amazon.com/Athorbot-Printing-Surface-CR-10S-printer/dp/B073TW738G

that one replaces a fan inside the control box. Get this one for the extruder fan: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this one and it's been working great. It's thick enough that it can take some prying and if it starts to lose adhesion you can lightly sand it with some 1000 grit to restore it.

I use this one it's pretty close. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CX8ZFJC/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=A1XKR8C06OV8W4&psc=1

https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/a4/b4/a4/5f/32/6a3706edb6bef6d569d8d8885d8acbbf_preview_featured.jpg

I sprung for a sheet of PEI and it's been great, buffed it with ultrafine steel wool and wipe the bed with isopropyl alcohol before each print. no tape, glue or hairspray needed.

Thanks - I'll check that one out. Here's the hot end I got:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789V2D7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If it slipped out, then your part is malfunctioning. Go ahead and order those couplers they really do make a world of difference. Also this is the other part I was referring to:
CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, Aluminum MK8 Drive Feed 3D Printer Extruders for Creality Ender 3, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UsYUDbSXJ318G
The hole where your filament feeds into the Bowden tube will wear down over time due to friction. This part needs to be stronger than your filament or it was start to jam/slip.

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "PEI"



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^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

Oh I know. I recently replaced mine with a Capricorn Bowden PTFE tube from Amazon. They give you enough to do about 2 or 3 tube swaps.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

its a regular old 12v cr-10s

Replace it.

get one of these, night and day difference: https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Printer-Surface-Adhesive/dp/B074XLD5QH

This is the BLTouch I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076PQG1FF/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I never had this happen, but I had a lot of clogging etc, until I switched to a Micro Swiss all metal hotend. It, plus printing out a fang cooling duct made things so much better. Search Thingiverse for "fang" and you will see a bazillion different flavors.

i think you forgot this?

Got the same in a pack of 3 on Amazon for about $16 like a week ago. Switched to PETG on CR10 and didn’t want to mess with messy adhesion things. Printed a ton so far and 0 issues. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TW738G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_vtlcBb5J9PC69

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet 12" x 12" 1 mm 3D Printer Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive Tape

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074XLD5QH

Do you have this upgrade?

CHPOWER CR-10 Extruder Upgraded Replacement, Aluminum MK8 Drive Feed 3D Printer Extruders for Creality Ender 3, CR-10, CR-10S, CR-10 S4, CR-10 S5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZ374W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HH5HDbJQ21BKB

That fixed my problem, tensioner stays very tight now