Best products from r/CafeRacers

These 60s bikes always had the coolest road-racing styling, and then just the crappiest bars known. With no good mounting points for rear-sets, and no good mounts for clip-ons, you'll have a tough time being comfortable with clubmans!

Check these bars out:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050HC3LW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've started putting them on everything.

They correct the weird stance of the 60s bars, but keep you comfy while your feet are on the pegs.

Also, for these older small Italian bikes, moped sources are where it's at. If you're stateside, Treatland.tv has tires and tubes that will fit those small rims, electrical parts for days, cables, knarps, and all that jazz. And don't just search for "Cimatti" in your ebay parts search; I've found all the Italians shared parts: Moto Guzzi, Aermacchi, Cimatti, etc.

Your greatest challenge will be if the piston and/or cylinder are scored. If it spins free with good compression, and a good flashlight check, you could have this thing running in two weeks.


EDIT: I almost forgot! This old single-stage paint fucking ROCKS. Hit it with some buffing compound, and it comes alive. That black and silver Aermacchi in my pic used to look just like yours (note the hazy forks, not yet buffed). With some proper compound, pads, and wax, it looks so good. If you can buff that out without killing the pinstripes, it'll be the shit.

A really good source for info : www.dotheton.com
Make an account on that forum and when you're done with that go to the forum and find the "projects" section and look for the subsection "cafe racers" All of those threads in there are packed with information and each thread has the bike's year and model in the title.

For more focused knowledge use the search function and make it so it only searches "projects - cafe racers" and search for Honda CB100 and the CB125 (it's literally the same bike just the displacement of the cyl is different). There you will find threads about your bike and they will contain many photos of the build process to help you.

Parts for CB100/CB125s : search ebay for brake cables, clutch cables, and throttle cables. That bike's model is super popular in Thailand and they still make new ones I think so all those parts are still available but ship time is long. Buy these now before you have to in the future and wait 1 month for shipping.

I tried getting a replacement CB125s wiring loom from ebay as well but once I got it and looked at the wiring diagram it turned out to be a CB100 wiring loom which is slightly different when it comes to the alternator connections and rectifier/regulator. That's good news for you though it means you can easily find CB100 totally brand new wiring looms. Replacing yours would be a really good idea unless you've seen your wiring and it looks mint. This will help you avoid any strange intermittent electrical issues.

I converted my CB125s to 12v but I have an '81 and it uses a Pulse-CDI ignition so it's not the same as your CB100. It will be a similar process and shouldn't be too difficult. Dotheton.com might have some threads on that.

Cleaning and rebuilding the stock carb is ideal but if it's cracked or un-cleanable replacing it with a Mikuni-clone ebay carb will work. I did it and it started up instantly and has been running strong since I switched.

Hard to find knowledge RE: single cyl. 100-125 thumpers from Honda : they don't mind K&N airflow or Uni-filters and can use them fine since the carb is slide and not vacuum. However, these bikes do not like shortened exhaust manifolds/mufflers. These bikes prefer longer exhaust manifolds with a longer muffler for backpressure so don't shorten it any shorter than it was stock.

Lastly : if you intend on changing the clutch plates it's not that hard at all but you will need a specific Honda OEM socket to remove a bolt on the clutch basket. They sell it for like 50 bucks the bastards. Many people make their own. It looks like this : https://www.50stunt.com/v/vspfiles/photos/MMEG-TBW0307-2.gif

Definitely make your own don't be like me and pay half a hundred for that.

Good luck!

http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/62-engine-discussion/19731-clutch-hub-nut-socket-how-make.html
example of someone making their own clutch tool. I think there are many types though 20mm, 24mm etc.

You will 100% absolutely want to purchase a clymer manual for your bike : https://www.amazon.com/Clymer-Honda-100-350cc-Manual-M315/dp/B000GTVNNS

I HAVE THE SAME BIKE!
Mine is a GS450TX


TL;DR = fix bike fairly quickly and just ride :)


I hope this helps.

(INCOMING WALL OF TEXT!)

2 years ago I cut my mufflers off and mounted Emgo Shorty's. I also replaced my air box with Uni foam pods. I re-jetted the pilot from 17.5 to 20. I moved the main jet up from 115 to 122.5. I briefly cleaned the carbs with the spray parts cleaner, set the air mixture screws to 3 turns, and reassembled the bike. It ran like crap because I took so many shortcuts. I spent a couple weeks riding and fighting with the bike then I parked it for winter. 2 years went by and I didn't even want to deal with the crappy state my bike was in so I left it parked until we moved (better school zone for kids).

Once we got settled I brought my bike home and started tearing it down.
I spent a couple weeks doing the following:

• Downloaded manual = https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=2370B62DDF9F0C6B%211334&authkey=%21APM7hx6Q2ynLu-A
  
  
  
• Properly cleaned the carbs (soaking them for 12 hours in original Pine Sol (50/50 mix with water) cleaned them better than any other parts cleaner I've used in the past). All of the rubber on the carbs were in excellent shape, so I lucked out there. Rinse with mild soapy water then hit each part for 1 minute with toothbrush. Rinse with water and reassemble. Adjust air mixture screws to 2 turns out.
  
  Bench-sync slide/butterfly valves PDF Guide = http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/gs450_carb_cleaning_guide.pdf
  
  Parts = https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/1982/gs450t/carburetor
  
  Rebuild = https://youtu.be/w16in05ANN4
  
  Soak = https://youtu.be/zDkOgnPidPs
  
  Bench-sync = https://youtu.be/AS77T2CUsjI
  
  
  
• Changed Jets to: pilot = 22.5 / main = 130
  http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_street/suzuki_450_GS450S.html
  
  
  
• Carb boots + o-ring were still in good shape so I left them alone.
  Test boots for leaks = https://youtu.be/XzjSEYB9RDU
  
  
  *Modified Uni foam pods: 1) removed half of the inside lip with an knife so the air intake circuit wouldn't be partially obstructed 2) Temporarily restricted Uni pods by taping a ziplock bag around the sides and cutting the bag away from the back end so air intake would be smooth.
  
  
  
• Removed gas tank and filled it with a 50/50 mixture of distilled white vinegar & water for 24 hours (be sure to remove gas cap and petcock and tape closed). Drain mixture from petcock hole, take a picture of 1lb of rust chunks and post on Reddit for easy karma :) Fill tank 25% with water from garden hose and shake for 1 minute solid. Drain and repeat x10. Ok, last time add 1/2 cup of baking soda/powder to neutralize vinegar. Rinse clean.
  Clean tank = https://youtu.be/UpaGo_nq5Rk
  
  
  
• Test petcock vacuum before reinstalling. Suck in vacuum tube and plug with finger. Test Reserve, Fuel, and Prime settings. The latter should be the only one that allows air to flow without sucking on the vacuum tube. My petcock's diaphragm was ruptured so I replaced it. Pro Tip: don't by the cheap $20 replacement from Amazon. It is crap and constantly leaks fuel on all settings once fuel begins to flow... even when no hoses are attached. Find the OEM replacement for $45 and move on.
  
  
  
• Install new fuel/vacuum/vent hoses on carb. Also get a cheap kit from Amazon that has an inline fuel filter and cutoff valve. (This will make draining and carb maintenance easy) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXH6Z7S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tse1CbD0V0DY3
  
  
  
• Test battery charging system = https://youtu.be/njky7cNEdYU
  
  
  
• Change engine oil = https://youtu.be/Opqbbqfxmsk (use Lucas semi synthetic 10w-40 to aid with shifting due to wet clutch)
  
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KWGA10?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
  
  
  
• Buy a Seal Mate (or make from plastic container) to fix fork seals if dirty = https://youtu.be/8wlzfoVroSY
  
  
  
• Change fork oil = https://youtu.be/81hWzXOAvww (use Lucas semi synthetic 10w if under 200lbs, and 15w if over 200lbs. Also, when you refill fork oil compress forks completely, with springs removed, and fill to 6 inches from top)
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041CDW7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Pye1CbGHFE87B (buy locally at O'Reilly's cheaper)
  
  
  
• Change tires = https://youtu.be/D8MFXZr36hs
  (I found a great deal on Kenda Dual Sport K761's at http:/denniskirk.com Front = 100/90-19. Rear = 120/90-17.
  Tools needed = Spoons with 2 Rim Protectors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079JZN5BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QEe1CbCMX9JBM
  Balance tires easy = E-Z Tire Beads Motorcycle Kit, Ceramic Balancing 2 oz Front + 2 oz Rear. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VOAOSDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hDe1Cb8QTNKYF
  
  
  Other notable links:
  
  The GS Resources = https://www.thegsresources.com/
  
  GS Forum = http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/index.php
  
  Bike Cliff's site = http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
  
  Parts = https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/l/suz/50d3f2caf8700230d8b4bf8c/1982-gs450tx-parts
  
  
  *** After all this maintenance, my bike starts easily, sounds incredible, shifts wonderfully, is very reliable, and a hell-of-a-lot of fun!
  
  
  ~Best of luck friend~

Yeah it's Autozone automotive color in a can and Eastwood 2K epoxy two part clear in a can. https://www.amazon.com/Spray-High-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY To be honest, I didn't do enough prep on my first effort and you could see some imperfections in the tank so I stripped it and started over. With the right amount of primer/filler and careful sanding, I'm amazed how good the finished product looks. A little bike tank and covers is easy. I can't believe people paint whole cars with rattle cans!

$15 Amazon Specials.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HG6K9TK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Checked the construction internal and external, all looks pretty good, might need resoldered at some point but they'll work for the time being pretty damn well it looks like. The blade switch for the turn signals is actually connected with aluminum instead of a solid plastic shaft like on the other cheap set I ordered and destroyed almost immediately that were twice the price. The switches all have a nice tactile click, the only thing I'm not too keen on is the pass light's pressure which is a problem that's easily fixed by cutting a spring if I decide to do so.


Can't beat them for the price and I'm doing my own custom wiring so I don't really care about the quality of the original connectors, but they do look pretty solid for the price.

Just a lot of books... Here a re some of the ones I've bought over the past year:

Welding:Principles and Applications (this is a bit overkill but I found it at a used book store)

Advanced Custom Painting Techniques

Four Stroke Performance Tuning

Engine Builders Handbook This is more focused on V8s but has a lot of great advice/best practices.

Sheet Metal Fabrication I have only used the skills in this book to make my electronics box so far, I was originally going to make a cafe style seat but decided on room for a passenger. Someday I would like to make my own gas tank.

Other than that it's a lot of online research!

It's good but not great. My riding buddy says daylight visibility is ok, but to my eyes it seems a bit dim. That being said I've had several cops behind me and no issues to date.

Functionally it's been perfect except for having to redrill the plate mounting holes. As I'm sure you know it requires an LED compatible blinker relay. Another $7 Amazon purchase. Adjustable Blinker Relay

Future... I'll replace it with something brighter and more integrated. I've toyed with the thought of embedding it into a custom seat pan but it still won't be as bright as I'd like.

A quick tip in case you don't have the locking mechanism for the fuel door (because I didn't). Round hood latches fit nicely into the hole made by the lock cylinder. Put a spring behind it and the door will pop open when the button is pushed but otherwise stay very firmly latched shut. Unless you live in an area where fuel siphoning is rampant the lock is a little overkill. Also it looks pretty badass in my opinion.

Removed the original headlight mounts

Sanded down all the rust under the headlight mounts

Removed aftermarket drag bars

Installed clip-ons

Installed new levers

Bought custom length brake cable and banjo bolts (bought locally, no link)

Mounted headlight on new brackets

Made custom bracket for speedometer out of metal bought from Lowes

Bar end mirrors

Grips

Horn+turn signal+headlight switch

For some reason I can't remember where I got my throttle. It's kinda Gerry rigged together. So buy something you're comfortable with.

Edit: Feel free to contact me for details on the changes I've made. I'd be glad to share details where needed.

Okay, I'm going to give you the strangest recommendation you've ever heard of.

You know all these "idiot's guide" kind of books on every subject imaginable out there? Ever wonder where that all started?

It started with the single greatest car repair manual ever written, end of discussion, ain't no doubt about it:

https://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101

That book is vintage 60s counterculture turned into a car repair manual. It's one of the huge reasons that volkswagon bugs and buses were such a huge part of the hippie culture.

Your average 1970s motorcycle shares a lot of technology with a Volkswagen bug, including how the cylinders and heads are put together, how you do valve adjustments, how you do carb cleaning and adjustments and a lot more.

By pure dumb luck the first vehicle I ever bought and modified with my own money was a VW Baja bug. That manual was beyond invaluable. It's also the ancestor of the entire concept of an "idiot's guide" and none ever did it better.

I shit you not, buy that book and read it cover-to-cover. Grok the fullness of it.

THEN when you buy a cheap running motorcycle and a normal repair manual for it from Clymers or whatever, you will have the ghost of John Muir looking over your shoulder and guiding you because you'll remember the concepts he preached.

Order an easy out for brass a left handed screw may work. Make sure to measure the hole diameter.

For a less precise approach you could try and find a left hand thread screw and that might pull it out.

https://www.amazon.ca/OEMTOOLS-24374-Spiral-Flute-Extractor/dp/B01EJ79WOY/ref=asc_df_B01EJ79WOY/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292948034357&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16055223203221652602&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000690&hvtargid=pla-570008451771&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Chemical-Plastics-4333062164-Spraymax/dp/B0043B7UQY

No, but I used this one. It's a two part epoxy spray, so it's gas proof as well