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I do not live in the salt belt but I am under the impression water cases iron to oxidize (rust) but salt accelerates the reaction because salt increases the conductivity of water. So from that logic, seems like the best bet is to rinse the undercarriage as much as possible to remove the salt. If you are super concerned which sounds like you are, I wonder if picking one of these up would help. If you have a garage for after the rinse to let the undercarriage dry I think would be ideal. https://www.amazon.com/BE-PRESSURE-85-400-062-Undercarriage-Cleaner/dp/B0065OYYQQ

They look okay for a bit longer to me. (from what I can see on the outside pad)















Here's how I go about with pad replacement intervals. I pull the pads out to see how they're doing where I can see the whole pad. I check for things like cracks that go down to the backing plate or of there's a chunk or something missing out of them. After that I check to see how much actual pad is left and if they're okay to keep on the vehicle or if I should get new brake pads. I use what's called a Tread Depth Gauge which I recommend everyone have at home. It's a cheap tool you can get at any auto parts store. While measuring brake pads if it's at 3/32 or below I replace the brake pads, or if the pad squealer is clearly making contact with the rotor. But if they're okay and while they're out I lube up the pad backing plate where it contacts on the piston or bracket, the sides of the pad where it sits on the bracket shims, and the slide pins. I use this stuff from AGS called Sil-Glyde. Works great. Just make sure not to get it on the actual pad itself.















But again with your original question from what I can see they look like they're getting there but okay to still use. If you have any other questions feel free to ask :)

Its difficult to repair a dent like this, but if you insist on DIY here's what you need.

1. Paintless dent repair kit (you pretty much need all the tools in that kit)
   
2. Sander and sandpaper to remove paint
   
3. Spray paint (base coat, color coat, clear coat)
   
   1. You can either opt for a gun or use rattle cans, your results will differ
      
4. Higher grit sandpaper for finishing the paint job
   
5. Buffing compound and wax
   
   I would recommend watching as many informational videos on this as you can. here are a few.
   
   

• Paintless Dent Removal DIY & PRO
  
• How to Remove Dents With PDR Tools
  
• DIY Paint Job Using Nothing But Rattle Cans
  
• Repair Automotive Paint Scratches With Spray Paint
  
• How Do You Blend Paint Jobs on Car? Automotive Paint Blending Steps!
  
  ​
  
  Good luck. If you decide to take this on and do it yourself please update us with your results.

1. Take photos of the undercarriage. Pay close attention to the rear most back bumper area, brake lines, floor pans, and exhaust. Note any oil leaks and transmission leaks. It’s a dodge so it’s safe to say there is oil leaking ;)
   
   
2. Pull one of the wheels off the back and front to see the brakes. Back is drum, front should be rotor and pads. Take a photo. Edit#1- Drums all four corners.
   
   
3. Pop the hood and inspect the shock towers. Take photos.
   
   
4. Around the wheel wells (using a cloth) run a magnet to see if it falls off and doesn’t stick. This is an indication of bondo.
   
   
5. Spray water on the front windscreen look on the inside of the car for water leaks. Also check the cowl for rust and send photos.
   
   
6. Jack the front end of the car up and wiggle the front wheels 9 and 3 is for tie rod ends, idler arm. 6 and 12 is ball joints. Inspect and take photos.
   
   
7. Pop the trunk, check for rust. Also check the gas tank straps and gas tank itself.
   
   
8. Go back under the hood and take a video of the engine running.
   
   
9. Dry rotted tires. Take a photo.
   
   
10. Take a photo of the master cylinder. If it is a single master cylinder, you just found your first and foremost upgrade. Trust me. You want dual master cylinder.
    
    
11. Do a vin check and make sure there is a title. Older cars sometimes find their way into Liens or missing titles.
    
    Honestly, it’s a $2,600 Car. I wouldn’t go all out beating the guy up on everything, but I would argue that paying more than $2,000 for that Car might be too much. You’re going to have probably $1,500 Worth of cost to make that Car road worthy and safe-ish.
    
    If you can do those things and report back all the photos and a video, then we as a collective group can help you out better. It’s just too tough to say with just one photo. Above all else you’re in control of this purchase, do not feel rushed.
    
    Also, if this is your first project Car, I highly recommend this book for gaining some knowledge about tune ups. It’s one of my favorite books!
    
    Edit #1: I believe this Car has drums on all four corners. My bad on the brakes.

You haven't convinced me.

Also, you'll probably be going with narrower rims. The 225/50 tires will fit better on a 7" wide rim than on an 8" wide rim. Your 18" rims are probably 8" wide. Also, the tires you're talking about are 20mm narrower section. Because of that, you'd be perfectly OK going with up to 10mm less offset. If you decrease the tire width by 20mm and decrease the offset by 10mm, your car will look the same from the side. The tire sidewall on the outside will be in the same position relative to the fender opening. All the "extra space" from the narrower tire will be toward the inside, and you won't have the "big empty hole" appearance that comes with narrower tires.

And after all that, I did a quick search and found these: https://amzn.com/B0799P644Q which look like exactly what you need.

One final note. Aftermarket wheels are usually made for conical lugs. Audi (all VAG cars, VW, Seat, etc) use ball seat lugs. Mercedes Benz uses ball seats as well. Pretty much everyone else in the entire world uses conical lugs. If you get steel wheels with conical seats, you'll need lugs to match. Also steel wheels often need shorter lug bolts than alloy wheels. Sometimes the lugs you have from your factory alloy wheels can interfere with the parking brake at the rear, or rub on the wheel bearing at the front. If you need "special" lugs for your winter wheels, be sure to keep one set of the VW lugs with your spare tire. It really sucks if you have a flat, and you don't have the lugs you need to mount the spare tire. Don't ask me how I know this.

Everyone should have one these days. They're super cheap. This is the first one that came up on Amazon. Seems to be reviewed well. It's bluetooth and connects to your phone. There are a number of free apps that will serve your purposes. I use OBD Car Doctor.

Good luck!

the turbo piece get the book
maximum boost

https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1500339982&sr=1-1&keywords=maximum+boost

the rebuild piece plenty of rebuild books out there, check this one out since its very similar (import 4 cylinder)

https://www.amazon.com/High-Performance-Honda-Builders-Handbook/dp/1884089216/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1500339882&sr=1-3&keywords=high+performance+engine+build

to do it right you will need some new tools to your collection.
borescope (plasti gauge), ring files, piston ring compressors, torque wrench, feeler gauges, straight edge, to name a few
a great machine shop (more than just the head resurface, line hone, bore and hone, valve guides/seats/angle cuts)
a factory service manual is key (torque specs and specific details on your engine vs a basic covers it all book).
Research your cars engine and see what have worked well for others. let them teach you what parts to stay away from.
good luck

(OP's post is going to get removed whenever one of the mods shows up, since /r/CarTalk is not Car Talk, but just for specific repair questions. Before that happens, does anyone know of a subreddit with an attitude more in keeping with the Car Talk namesake?)

OP: Some folks have suggested tire inflating foam. I carry a plug kit and a cheap battery-driven compressor like this. You can find a cheaper alternative pretty easily online. Keeping the compressor around reminds me to top off my wheels regularly, whereas foam can only be used in emergencies.

I also keep a couple of water bottles, a sleeping bag, and a pair of those "hot hands" things in my trunk in case of getting stranded, although that's probably not very necessary in your area.

Yea I am just trying to get a system that is functional. My old one gave me control over the radio, A/C, ect. but I can't use any of that anymore. I honestly don't care about the navigation aspect.

Like if I bought something like this https://www.amazon.com/XTRONS-Display-Navigator-Bluetooth-Supports/dp/B07MR3VFY6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=honda+accord+navigation&qid=1568765826&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&s=gateway&sr=8-1 just trying to see if I connected this that it wouldn't pop up with "please check disc"

Yup $200 for the whole panel. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-358-Passenger-Shock-Mount/dp/B01D8VJJAO/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=dorman+924-358&qid=1550776379&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull#customerReviews

Looks like people have had good success with it. Ford and the nicest body shop in town didn't want to do it because they won't do work they can't warranty. I just want to get a year or two out of the vehicle.

Alright, thank you for your advice, it really helped. I think I'm just going to get a single sub and a mono amp as my budget won't allow for me to get two subs and a good supporting amp (or 2, especially because of the battery concerns). I think I'm going with this sub and this amp. Thank you again!

I actually restored my headlights on my own not too long a go. After reading reviews for several online, I decided on 3M's. Benefit to the 3M kit is you don't kill your wrist since you're doing all the sanding with a drill instead of by hand. Just be sure to apply the tape (not included) LIBERALLY, especially around sharp corners so you don't scratch your paint.

Lights don't "pull 12v", they need 12v to work and then use/pull X amount of amps. I think you're confused by the difference between volts, amps, and how fuses work. Voltage is like the measure of force moving the electricity (electrons) through the wire, and amps is the measure of how much electricity is moving through the wires.


The fuse numbers are the rating that the fuse blows at, not how much that circuit uses normally. Like if your radio only uses 8A peak, then it would run through a fuse that is rated at 10A, so if it ever spikes above 10A, then the fuse blows and opens the circuit to protect from damage.


Anyway, I would pick a fuse slot that powers an accessory, like the radio fuse or the 12V accessory port(/cigarette lighter. Whatever you call it). So if the fuse were to blow, the only thing that is affected is just the lights and the accessory port.


Easiest thing to do is get a fuse tap and use it to install your lights. That way you don't have to cut any wires on your car and everything is properly protected. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=fuse+tap&qid=1571284619&sr=8-3

it wouldn't be an FM transmitter if it plugged into the aux jack. It'd be a blutooth receiver.

I have this one and I love it. Works perfect in my 2007 Honda Fit with stock headunit.

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Magnetic-Handsfree/dp/B0168GBMCY

Check to make sure you have the spare tire, and that it's inflated properly, there should be a jack and a tire iron(wrench?) as well.

I also suggest the following:

If you have a smartphone: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004B7YXOM/ (Lets you read codes off any OBDII car. Fun for friends and family too.) Keep in glovebox.

A cigarette outlet powered tire inflator: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ENQRD2/ or http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZBWKAU/ (I have the first one and it works as advertised). Keep in trunk.

Also I don't know how the 2012 system works for music and navigation, but integration with your smartphone is very nice for music and nav.

(purely cosmetic and expensive.) Also look up vinyl wrapping if you're bored. Protects your paint job while you're at it :P

I'll throw in that I've had an 09 Corolla S with 5 speed stick and it has never had a single failure of any sort other than the manual transmission having a second to third synchro issue that I've learned to work around. But as most are automatics, even that wouldn't be a problem. I highly recommend the cars for reliability as long as they're properly maintained.

If you get it, you can easily install a double-din apple/android compatible receiver, like the Sony XAV-AX5000 ( https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX5000-CarPlay-Receiver-BLUETOOTH/dp/B07CB3CB1V ) for GPS/music and make the car feel modern.

You need something like this, I don't know what model radio you have. Just punch it into Amazon or Crutchfield's site to get the right pigtail. https://www.amazon.com/XDMA6415-XDMA6630-XDVD-8181-GETWIREDUSA-USA4/dp/B01EKKKUFA

You will also need a 1-DIN beauty plate for your car, and maybe a 2-DIN to 1-DIN adapter plate if your current radio is a 2-DIN size (I don't know what Buick put in those cars in 99).

Add all this up and you're getting fairly close to the cost of a new radio from Crutchfield, where they'll include all this for free with the new radio - including a pigtail so you don't have to cut the OEM wiring harness inside the car.

For help purposes this is the dash:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001JT0ALU/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item

​

This is the stereo:

https://www.amazon.ca/ATOTO-Double-Android-Navigation-Bluetooth/dp/B07B7JKZBM/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=atoto+a6&qid=1550801397&s=gateway&sr=8-2

​

Basically should fit fine right? Will this stereo improve my overall sound?

Yeah, that would work to get some stuff out, but to shine them, albeit temporarily, spend the $12 and get this:

https://smile.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_4

If you have an electric drill, this is more fun and you can do more parts of your car:

https://smile.amazon.com/Foam-Drill-Polishing-Inch-Buffing/dp/B076ZJMHB1/ref=sr_1_23

$45 from amazon. This one can be used on many cars and trucks too. It's a nice quick little diag tool that can save you tons of money in the long run. I'd charge you $65 for a diagnostic (Labor)
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368137222&sr=8-1&keywords=radiator+pressure+tester

Try this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_3FSCDb7XBRWXF

I've used it before, and it worked pretty well. However, make sure to tape around the borders of the headlights

Yeah it's a coolant leak allright then.

Techniques for coolant leaks:
Pressurize the system, listen and look. Maybe not this one, but you get the idea:
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504476535&sr=1-2&keywords=coolant+pressure+tester

UV dye. Same, not a recommendation, just a link to the concept.
https://www.amazon.com/FJC-4972-Fluorescent-Leak-Detection/dp/B008QEYTZ4/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504476572&sr=1-2&keywords=coolant+UV+dye+kit

But with your rate of draining, you should be able to find it just by eyeballing. Bet that engine compartment is cramped. 'Course they make stuff for that too. Mirrors on sticks, borescopes.


Jags love to mark their territory.
Check the radiator, hoses, especially where they connect or have a junction. Check the water pump.

I got this one and paired it with the torque pro app. Works great. Can't go wrong for under $20 total.

Try Aero Kroil instead of PB Blaster, or try a 50/50 mixture of acetone and transmission fluid. A long, six-point box end wrench will work well to unscrew the sensor. Then use one of these to clean up the threads in the HO2S bung.

I was reading the reviews on that, and it looked really good. Was this the one you were thinking of?

Please don't quote wikipedia. It makes my mind hurt how much incorrect information on turbo systems is spread. If you want to go read something useful go read Corky Bell's Maximum Boost. http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606

The ONLY reason for a BOV/Recirc valve is to allow the turbocharger to remain at speed between shifts. It does nothing to reduce wear on the engine (the throttle plate is closed), and again, "surge loading" against the compressor shaft, which is really only just minor overpressure, only occurs when there is no intercooler present. The reason they become useful then is wear on the pressurized tubing/joints from popping off the fittings. A lot of non-intercooled low pressure systems (< 1bar) don't even have recirc valves (84-89 300ZX Turbo)

Yeah I thought about grabbing a coolant tester. Might try the Mityvac brand from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G

Probably the first upgrade any turbo car owner should be is buying this book: http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342897180&sr=8-1&keywords=corky+bell

Corky Bell is a damn smart man, and he even runs BEGi, who specializes in turbo systems for Miatas mostly, but they make a bunch of universal parts as well.

This seems like an obvious answer.

But it's because one headlight is much newer then the other. The old one is fogged over from sun damage and need to be sanded and buffed.

Use this kit with a home power drill to make it like new. I'd suggest going over the other one too a bit just to make them both match.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY

Those focus dashes weren't just a radio unit like you think of it, the dash kit was that whole silver plastic piece because Ford dashes are dumb.

Idk why they spent so much on the wiring, maybe there's something special about it.