(Part 2) Best products from r/CherokeeXJ

Northern AZ XJ guy here. Not sure about local places around PHX, but a good place to start is this book and be ready to travel a little. There are a number of great trails and off road areas throughout the state. The southern areas require a good cooling system, and the when it snows up north, a good heater! A really interesting place to live; I hope you like it!

Guide to Arizona Backroads

$83.94 IPF housings
$20.98 Hella H4 55/100W
$27.34 Putco harness
$14.56 Backup relays

$146.82 for a sharp cutoff and much more light on the road, and an incredible high beam, delivered in two days if you have an Amazon Prime membership. I bet you use high beams a lot now, but you'll probably rarely feel the need to use them on the road with this setup.

$147.99 for a 50 inch light bar. Even though the headlights offer a lot of light, having extra flood would be great when off road. I don't actually have this yet, but I plan on buying it as a reward for getting some work done on my XJ. Mine is still new to me, and I haven't yet had the time to earn it yet.

Less than $300 and two days for an incredible amount of light output.

If I don't buy that light bar, it's because I'm getting a Cree light bar with XP/XT or XM emitters that I'll be upgrading...I'm on the hunt for a light bar that uses XTE emitters like this light because output can greatly be increased by swapping in XP-L's, and more than doubled if power can be increased. That mod is more of a hobbyist thing than an attempt to save money, and not all of them would be done anyway since it'd sacrifice some throw for flood.

Are you planning to add an amp or run off stock power?

The first thing you'll want to do is upgrade your head unit because that will make a huge difference in the quality of sound. Jvc, clarion, alpine, Sony, pioneer. Stay away from boss and any other knock off brand. They're cheap for a reason...

After that, you'll want to get some decent speakers.

Kickers are "okay" but they hurt my ears so I avoid them. I've got some infinity primus speakers in my liftgate that put out some really nice sound for a coax set.

Since you've got a jeep you may want to invest in this stuff. It goes inside the doors to provide stability and keep sound in/out. It's essentially the same thing as fatmat but like 1/3 the price.

You may also want to head over to R/Carav and fill out a form. You'll get more help there than here...

Edit: more help as in better matching of good/cheap equipment to fit your budget.

I just did/am doing my headliner (need to put it back in) this week and I used Permatex Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive. It's item #27828, bright orange can with a blue top. Seems to work great! I used just under 2 cans for my main headliner board. You should get some high quality headliner foam. Usually local upholstery places will have it in sheets. Just avoid any kind of heavy and/or non foam backed material (if you want it to last and look nice) and you should be fine. Also, remember to get a star bit for the rear seat belts. You can get one at Autozone.. I think it was 45 but I can't remember exactly off the top of my head.

Here's the adhesive. You can get it at any car store:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-27828-Headliner-Adhesive-Aerosol/dp/B000HBNU9K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417054160&sr=8-1&keywords=permatex+27828

EDIT:
I've made an album with my current headliner progress, just to give you an idea.

http://imgur.com/a/ZdCNU

As you can see in the pictures, the spray is pretty heavy duty. Hope this helps.

That funnel that he's talking about is a game changer. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510067876&sr=8-4&keywords=coolant+funnel

When I burped the coolant in my XJ after replacing my radiator and t-stat all I did was fill it up til the radiator was full + some in the funnel itself (it won't spill if you have the correct adapter and cap on the neck), then I started it and watched it semi close for a couple minutes to make sure it didn't suck all the coolant out of the funnel, then I just let it run for like 30 minutes while I cleaned up all the tools and mess from changing the radiator. I would just glance at the funnel once every few minutes or so to make sure it hadn't sucked the funnel dry.

I've bled cooling systems with varying degrees of success without the spill proof funnel, but there almost always ends up being a huge puddle of coolant below the car and/or I never quite get all the air out of the system. That funnel makes it pretty much foolproof.

Not sure how fancy you wanna get with it, but I'm planning on using this hinge for the carrier, and this pin to keep it open on hills. I have yet to design my rear bumper, but I did the front one and it turned out pretty good. My advice would be to look at premade ones to find stuff you like and go from there. BleepinJeep has some newer videos where one of the guys builds a bumper for his diesel jeep, and a video assembling a diy rear bumper for a Comanche.

The more related research you can do the better. The best thing you can do for your wallet is mock things up in cardboard before going to steel. It allows you to see how things will look, gives you an idea of dimensions, and is a hell of a lot cheaper if you screw up. Also be sure to account for clearances of stuff like paint/bed liner, otherwils you'll have a he'll of a time trying to get it on and off.

the autopal housings are great and take H4 bulbs. super easy refit, although you should also do a relay harness if you are going to overpower them because all the power goes through the headlight switch in the stock config.

harness
housing
bulbs

Note that if you have fogs the highbeam cutoff circuit might malfunction if you install a relay harness. Some info here

TL;DR: Any h6054 housing will fit. Do a harness swap too.

Edit: the Autopal and some other housing brands are available with ECODE or DOT glass lenses, for LHD or RHD.
DOT means there is not as sharp a cutoff. This is used in the US because overhead road signs are not illuminated as they are in the EU. As another poster said, once you have the housing in with it's little stamp you pretty much have carte blanche for the bulbs

I don't do pucks for bump stops. These work, but I'm more partial to these which require modification to fit, yet yield a softer ride.

You'll want about three inches of spacer on top of an isolator to get to where you want to be. You may also try JK Rubicon coils with the spacers you have, as they're good for an extra inch or two.

I can't comment on the ZJ track bar. You'll need to check everything at full stuff and full drop anyway. With original everything, the track bar will hit the top of its bracket at the axle. Once you change the track bar, something else will become your limiter, probably the lower control arms. Factory sway bar links are too short and should be extended before they get bent.

If you don't really wheel it, or consider easy forest roads to be hard core, then a factory track bar may last years.

Edit: had to fix a word.

Got these ones. Definitely nothing fancy, but they are getting the job done. Had to put some rubber spacers in to make it fit the rack, but that was really simple. Super secure front to back and came with some nice tie-downs. Wobbles a tiny bit side-to-side with the flex of the rack when you hit bumps, but no problems so far.

All in all, two thumbs up.

http://www.amazon.com/TMS-KAYAK-RK-J-1BOX-Universal-Carrier/dp/B003V57NUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405359817&sr=8-1&keywords=kayak+mount#productDetails

>Part number 52002403

Thanks! I found it already...I ordered one from a Grand and it looks like it may fit, at least on the bottom bolt which is fine. If not I guess I will need to do a trip to the jy.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00199GFKA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These fit perfectly for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009W5KJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Held in with some hot glue. They sound great, especially for the price.

definitely makes sense to either upgrade to a ZJ tie rod or some other combination of HD components rather than rebuild stock with new parts when the price is probably going to be pretty close. I put the Crown HD steering kit on mine last year during a full refresh http://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-HDSTRGCR1-Heavy-Steering/dp/B008VPUOSO/ref=sr_1_1 (basically a ZJ tie rod with beefier TREs and a new drag link). I'm pretty happy with the quality of it for the price, but definitely want to swap out the provided TRE boots for some poly ones. There's also a Rugged Ridge setup which looks much beefier than stock for $248, though I haven't read any experiences beyond this one apart from the Amazon reviews: http://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-18050-82-Heavy-Duty-Conversion/dp/B0013REXY8/ref=sr_1_3

For cup holders I put 2 of these in and haven't looked back. Went in super easy and have held anything and everything cup wise iv needed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EDQR4G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought from here : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792NCNXS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_T4FRBbZ0QY99E

Go to YouTube and look up “decal center hinge” technique, that is what I used to apply these decals. https://i.imgur.com/QsceW2i.jpg I also used a spray bottle with a couple drops of Johnson and Johnson’s baby shampoo to wet down window immediately before application. You’ll need the spray, at a minimum an old credit card (I had previously bought a window tint kit on Amazon for $10) and a razor blade to trim it to fit the window. I took my time and was very patient and both sides took me about 45 minutes total to complete. It was a fun little project.

Looking back, I should have installed it a little higher, cutting the top stripe a little thinner, so if someone gets one, keep that in mind. Also, align the decal to the bottom edge of the window.

thanks! these are the cheapest J Racks on Amazon and they work pretty good!

They're really easy, just look up how your door panel comes apart so you don't have to pull on things and guess.


Buy this tool, or one like it. It makes the job really easy:


https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35260-Plastic-Fastener-Remover/dp/B0002SRCMO/ref=sr_1_41?keywords=door+panel+clip+tool&qid=1556081230&s=gateway&sr=8-41

Try NAPA maybe? Even if it's not Stant brand, NAPA seems to have better parts than the other parts store chains, but it's more expensive. Stant can be had on amazon for a few dollars. Autozone's Duralast and Failsafe are just garbage in my experience, so no wonder you are having trouble with those brands.

Good luck man!

https://www.amazon.com/Stant-45359-SuperStat-Thermostat-Fahrenheit/dp/B000C7YRNM/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=stant+195&pd_rd_r=06098c24-1ad2-405c-aeb6-2442d6b90638&pd_rd_w=SJdeE&pd_rd_wg=aY9Uu&pf_rd_p=9e334aac-d5e5-42f4-99b3-257ad129944e&pf_rd_r=79B6CDGZ2CYTX288NDSF&pid=4o0M34Z&qid=1572455260&sr=1-1&vehicle=2001-42-347-13--9--8-3360-242-8-2--14-&vehicleName=2001+Jeep+Cherokee

For headlights:

• Hella E-code housings
  
• Sylvania Silverstar Ultras
  
• Headlight harness
  
  For LEDs, I don't recommend them yet for brake or running lights. JDM ASTAR make pretty good conversion bulbs, but they can still cause problems. It's a pretty expensive can of worms.
  
  For everything else, let him decide. Maybe give him some gift certificates or something. He's going to be itching to spend that big wad of deployment cash anyway when he gets back.

I have a UV-50 (basically the same company that makes Baofeng, link below) in mine and love it. It isn't a Yaesu, but it's also not $500+ for something with decent features. It's not mounted right now, so unfortunately I can't give you pics, but it was living in the space formerly occupied by my passenger airbag. I whipped up a big faceplate to hold this thing and my CB in the airbag/glovebox space.

Forewarning on mounting a HAM inside the dash; these things get HOT. Not quite burrito-cook-plate, but you definitely want it isolated and not resting on any dash plastic or wires, and good ventilation is a must. Size-wise, it's about the same width/height as your average cheap uniden CB's, and a little shorter in the depth.

https://www.amazon.com/BTECH-MOBILE-UV-50X2-Mobile-Radio/dp/B06XK83VRV/ref=sr_1_3?crid=30XMK0ZLPLZF2&keywords=ham+radio+base+station&qid=1563293225&s=gateway&sprefix=ham+radio%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-3

That's really awesome that you say that I bought h4 stuff on Amazon and I'm gearing up to install.

Anyone have any experience? Is this a good setup? Tough to install?


HELLA 003427291 Vision Plus 190x132mm High/Low Beam 12V Halogen Conversion Headlamp
H4 100w Ceramic Fused PnP Heavy Duty Automotive Wiring Harness Headlight Foglight Booster Relay 12v
HELLA H4 12V 100/80W Halogen High Wattage Bulb Off Road Use

I don’t live in Arizona, but my dad bought this guys book for California in the 80s. He has new ones and I use them for California. He has an Arizona book. I would strongly encourage it.

https://www.amazon.com/Guide-Arizona-Backroads-4-Wheel-Drive-Trails/dp/1934838195

They make a funnel just for bleeding the coolant systems on vehicles. Ive always just filled it up, and turned it on till coolant starts flowing and cap the rad. Though it takes a warm up or two to get it back to normal. When i did it this last time with the funnel. It was burped in minutes, and working great. It also makes filling the coolant so much faster o.0

Link to funnel.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY

The ones you linked as well as the GE Nighthawks look the best to me, having that big bar across the middle.

Genssi has DOT approved compliant headlights designed to replace our H6054 sealed beams. There are some pics on this website: https://www.superbrightleds.com/blog/dot-approved-h6054-led-projector-headlights/1377/ I just wish these Genssi headlights didn't look so ricer. They just look like cheap eBay bullshit headlights to me. I couldn't stand to look at those every time I see the front of my vehicle.

https://www.amazon.com/GENSSI-Projector-Headlight-Sealed-Replacement/dp/B014Q6HSJE $142.95 each so they're cheaper than the GE or the Truck-lites.

Here is a video I found a few days ago showing the cutoff point of the Genssi headlights. God, I wish they didn't look so ricer because the beam pattern looks good with a nice cutoff. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gu8C1CZ8W20

Grote makes DOT approved compliant H6054 replacements but those are well over $200 each and the reviews aren't that hot. https://www.amazon.com/Grote-90951-5-Sealed-Beam-Headlights/dp/B00QB0CCU4

Edit for words n shit.

Buy the Crown HD Steering Upgrade from Amazon. Brand new and better than stock, it's the V8 ZJ linkage.

Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00URUIKAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rIsqDb7K0VD63


I can't say it was a HUGE improvement, but noticable enough to justify the job.

Amazon. Got the spindle kit and i picked up the pull pin for about $60 total.


Spindle Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Q2NY74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Pull Pin
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GAZQJ0O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Upholstery Adhesive works well but is rather expensive. You'll need 2 cans. Use the Permatex brand one. The 3M one didnt work well for me in some parts

It's from Octane Lighting:

LINK

Pilot PL-RY1 Auxiliary Lighting Accessory https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BL2Z3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Opk4wb6W4MJNW

I got mine from Octane, 1 for our jeep and 1 for our 76 motorhome. H4 100w Ceramic Fused PnP Heavy Duty Automotive Wiring Harness Headlight Foglight Booster Relay 12v https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMN30HY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_voo4wbV1EG5FJ

H4 100w Ceramic Fused PnP Heavy Duty Automotive Wiring Harness Headlight Foglight Booster Relay 12v https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMN30HY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CgnMybDSS3FBF

Arb is overpriced.

I know this is an old comment, but check out the putco wiring harness. I did one on my '99 and I can actually feel the heat coming off of the bulbs when I stand in front of them. Getting the proper voltage to those things is something the factory wiring just doesn't do. Pretty good result for like $25.

Took a bit of searching to find the correct relays since the ones that come with it aren't really well labelled, so I'll save you the trouble. I just keep a spare with all of the misc junk, just in case.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1OH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KJ09114BK-Front-Bump-Stop/dp/B001GH1OCO

Older Jeeps (pre 97 I believe) - https://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KJ09101BK-Bump-Stop-Piece/dp/B001GH1O9C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487952975&sr=1-1&keywords=KJ09101Bk

Cheapest you'll find them (unless you use hockey pucks up front). Just did mine on my ~3-3.5" lift with 33's.

Haven't done the fronts yet - can you do them without taking out springs? I really don't feel like taking the springs out, I reluctantly did it doing the lift but spring compressors fucking terrify me.