Best products from r/ChineseLaserCutters

Well, we'll see.

In the interest of making everything the same voltage, and ease of location in the future, I've opted to purchase the 100W 110v PSU.

The seller gave me a $75 refund, but that was mainly because his advertisement didn't match the machine with regard to the up/down buttons on the side. They were missing, and I'd wanted both manual and automatic control, so now I have two empty sockets on the side. I think it ought to be possible to get this working somehow, even if I have to come up with a PCB to do it.

So, given he'd already refunded me something from the sale, I wasn't too hopeful of a further refund for the 220v thing, and indeed I got back:

>Yeah the machine is 220V and need to use with the transformer，We have put transformer with the package ,The chiller is 110V ,Can directly use in your city.The reason why we manufacture the machine to 220V is due to the 220V machine always more stable quality than the 110V,All the machine we send to US stock is like this ,Hope you can accept .It will not influence usage but the quality is more good.

And after responding to that:

>All the machine in US is like this ,The machine 220V with transformer and chiller 110V,We have no manufacture 110V machine now,We have ever manufacture 110V machine several years ago .But 110V machine's Hz always meet problem when buyer use on US 110V voltage so we changed the voltage .All the buyer purchase our machine can use well with the 220V machine with transformer.If you don't like our transformer can you kindly purchase a good one ?

It seems unlikely to me that there's no such thing as a decent 110v laser PSU... It also seems frankly unlikely that a cheap-as-chips buzzing-angrily 110->220v transformer (that has already given me a mild shock^) is going to be a better power source than a native 110v laser PSU but hey. The new PSU looks* like a drop-in replacement. Again, we'll see.

In the grand scheme of things, I have to take the view that:

• The machine is actually pretty nice, and for the cost, it's pretty amazing
  
• The machine cost actually included all the shipping - no hidden lift-gate fees or anything like that.
  
• Even with purchasing the new PSU and air-blower (the supplied one was also 220v), I'm still coming out ahead of importing from China. The cost there was an additional $600 by the time all the fees were accounted for, and this is only $200 - not to mention that the ebay supplier's shipment arrived a lot faster.
  
  So I'm a bit disappointed it didn't go completely smoothly, but I'm overall pretty happy with how smooth it did go. I expected a hiccup or two. Hopefully that's them dealt with.
  
  ----
  [*] The shock came after I'd switched everything off, so I'm assuming that it was just capacitor discharge, but it still made me jump. In any event, I won't be using it in future.

Really depends on how much you like messing around with tricks and tips to stay cheap.

I bought the CW-5000 a few months back for $485 shipping included from Amazon, pretty good deal really.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075F2JY97/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This thing is a beast, it's quite large but it works fantastically!

Being pretty much plug and play is of much greater value to me than cycling ice packs in bucket.

I tried the ice method with the K40 I started out with and it works but takes a fair bit of attention and planning.

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Turn this thing on and it chills from 24C ambient to 18C in less than 10 minutes and keeps it there without issue on a 60W tube.

Not having to manage my cooler lets me do the things I actually want to do with the laser.

I got the mini k40 (would not do that again). It works great, but I didn't know it at the time that I would be getting a weaker laser. I was about a week too late learning about tube sizes being the better way to know the true wattage.

I have done a series of upgrades and then re-dos. So hopefully you can learn a few things from all my tinkering.

Analog Milliamp Meter

I bought this meter. I followed this link for the install.

Exhaust

I initially went with an inline 3" bilge pump that had a corresponding 3d printed exhaust mount. It was ok, but in the end I just wasn't good enough when I started cutting more leather/wood.

So I went a little overboard, but I am glad I did. I went with this blower instead. I made my own 3D printed mount for it. I printed 2 adapters for the blower to fit 4" ducting and then routed it up and outside my garage.

I also removed the small internal duct thing prior to installing the new exhaust. it gives me a little more cutting room as well.


Air Assist

I went with the Light to Object head and bought a new lens to fit it.


Drag Chain

I bought a 10x10 drag chain off amazon. I had originally printed one, it was ok, but I recently switched up the mounting of the drag chain to run along the X gantry which gave me a little more room to cut.


Laser Aim Assist

I made a mash of 2 different thingverse designs to hold 2 red line lasers and where they intersect is my laser beam. It works well, I made it this way originally when I had an adjustable table. Honestly, now I should switch back to a single red dot, but I am too lazy. The two lines will sometimes move on me so I end up having to do a test fire every so often to ensure they are lined up properly.


Spring Loaded Adjustable Bed

I followed this guide


Hopefully this helps you out a bit.

Yep! I use this one. I considered the one you linked, but got the metal one simply because it was cheaper at the time. Both would get the job done.


I have it connected to my k40 via 4" dryer hose and this flange hose fitting which fits perfectly in the slot on the back of the k40.


Used these clamps to secure the dryer tubing together.


As far as how well it works, I'm pretty satisfied. I have the exhaust blowing out a 4" fitting attached to a board I close in my window. I smell a little bit of burnt wood when cutting, but it's very minute. Almost all smoke goes out the window. The suction is very good, if I'm cutting card stock it occasionally sucks the small paper pieces right off the cutting bed. When I'm doing laser alignments, it almost completely eliminates the smell of burning masking tape during test firing even with the door open.

I’ve been using this Fan for over a year to run 2 trotec speedy 100s daily and another to run a boss laser ho 3655. They are very quiet and pull all the fumes out. The two trotecs are being run by 1 fan and it works great. I do prefilter the air before it gets to the fan with a little 12” air filter. It’s been a great solution.

I have the Light object air assist and a "commercial" aquarium pump from amazon and im pretty sure it cost me about $50 usd for the setup

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https://www.lightobject.com/Mount-Fixtures/20mm-18mm-15mm-Laser-Head-wAir-Assist-Ideal-for-K40-Machine?gclid=Cj0KCQiAq97uBRCwARIsADTziybK36iS7iculLL_pihPHH5bhi2BOo5vS0yV3IeqIB6skLLY5ywqrekaAiqTEALw_wcB

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https://www.amazon.com/VIVOHOME-Electromagnetic-Commercial-Aquarium-Hydroponic/dp/B078H92695/ref=sr_1_5?crid=267FYIZNR81U0&keywords=commercial+aquarium+air+pump&qid=1574475155&sprefix=comercial+aqu%2Caps%2C423&sr=8-5

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works great

I got the same pump. Works great. I never could find that fitting at a hardware store. Just ordered it. I have it rigged up with some fittings that don't fit and lots of Teflon tape and covered in epoxy. Good seal, but yeah, I'm down to change that up.

Oh yeah, for the OP, while you are getting your water setup. I'd suggest grabbing one of these flow indicators. Seems so expensive for what it is, but also get simplicity to know your water is flowing (and also to gauge roughly how well it is flowing).

As has been mentioned, getting a larger fan helps. I went with one of these (though my model is just variable speed without the temperature sensor), and it's been excellent.

I don't know costs in AU at all, but in the US you can buy an ice maker for about $120 that should be plenty to keep your laser cool, at least assuming you are not cutting for hours on end. Assuming you don't already have an icemaker in your fridge, that gets you an added bonus along with cooling your laser.

Running piping through a freezer is an option, but you need to make sure the pipes are fully drained between uses. I would just use a mini fridge instead, you don't need or even want the water to be around freezing.

Which pump did u get? I use this Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jaYlDbMBEJQNF , with a 3d printed nozzle and works great

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB8PD7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U7YBDb3GT5A03
It’s super quiet and seems to work well.

I have this one, but I got it when I was using the nozzle style air assist, so I think it is more powerful than I need with the tubing. It is also kind of loud, I only turn it on when cutting. I use silicone tubing, the same as used on the water cooling, to bring the air to the laser head. Using a drag chain to support it.

I've had decent success with these 12inx12inx3mm birch sheets I got off amazon. 45 sheets for $65 (these were down to $60 a while back).

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013NT3OAC/

1/8" X 12" X 12" Baltic Birch Plywood Great for Laser, Cnc, and Scroll Saw. 45pc Woodpeckers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013NT3OAC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

You could use that along with some aluminum tape to seal it to the back of the cutter.

I use this blower:
attwood Quiet Blower Water Resistant (White, 4-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3L18BbTB6G1FB

Along with this vent hose:
White Flexible Pvc Vinyl Vent Duct Hose, 4 in. x 20 ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G198P5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4R18BbNJ19ANP

These clamps:
Cambridge Tension Clamps, 2 Pk, Zinc Plated Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07737XRRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SS18Bb12827MZ

And this quick disconnect:
Dryer Dock Dryer Vent 6" for 4" Tubes, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028BAAWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4T18BbV6CJ1TW

If you put the blower near the window it will keep negative pressure upstream which helps put less smoke into the room.

I don’t exhaust out a window, but something like this might do the trick for you:
Window Dryer Vent (Adjusts 24 Inch Through 36 Inch) by Vent Works https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AW18BbDW0592D
Though there may be cheaper or better DIY options for that part.

awesome! yeah I'm going to be using that on the random hole around the machine that let smoke into the room and Weather striping on the lids to block it so that it ONLY goes through the exhaust!

any suggestions for blowers? I was looking at https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Quiet-Blower-Resistant-4-Inch/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542672858&sr=8-4&keywords=4+in+blower+fan

I am looking at this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077492C4C

https://i.imgur.com/a26ENad.jpg 3 feet between the back of the machine, the curve of the tube, and the exit port and it has never been able to lift the 4 louvers up beyond the 4 o'clock position.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018X2XT4/
And this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AB5X28G/