Best products from r/Chromecast

My current setup is just a quick and dirty budget (sub 1000$) system I hooked up to enjoy my music.

I bought this entry level Sony receiver, some Sony and Pioneer speakers that all hover around 100-125 watts and this bargain beauty of a subwoofer.

That subwoofer is absolutely amazing and on sale for 300$ off listing price with free shipping if you have Prime. Rich and full sound, not overpowering, good harmony.. You might really be surprised by how full of nuance the audio can be from that sub.

Overall, I'm super satisfied with what I accomplished. Especially for the price. Everything sounds good, I'm especially pleased with the sub and receiver. The speakers are so-so, they're not bad but they're not especially great, either. Good sound for good value.

As for technology.. I just have the Chromecast hooked into one of the hdmi inputs from the receiver. The receiver supports hdmi-cec (if the receiver is off and the input becomes active, it'll turn on) but I just leave it on standby (along with the subwoofer) anyway. Same result, just the power is on and the system is on sleep instead of power off.

I have the speakers and subwoofer hooked up directly to the receiver (copper for speakers, line in for sub).

The first thing is deciding what your budget is and what you want to accomplish. D'you want a 5,1 surround system? Are the acoustics of your house/apartment such that you can designate one room for audio and be able to hear the music from every other room? How are you going to be playing music? Are you gonna stream it from online? A local server/drive? D'you need your equipment to natively have wifi? Will you use an adapter? A Chromecast? For example, Sonos doesn't (yet?) offer hdmi in, are you ok with using an audio splitter/extractor? Questions like that.

500-1000$, especially if you shop around a bit, compare, read reviews etc, will get you good to great audio at bang for your buck to start off with.

Can I make a general recommendation about product recommendations? There are a pair of websites called The Sweethome, which focuses on home goods, appliances, and tools, and The Wirecutter, which focuses on technology. They try to pick a single best product in every category, and they do a pretty good job at it. We've bought a bunch of their top picks (or near top picks), and everything has been really excellent. We're a bit obsessive, and can waste an hour looking at reviews for even a $15 item, so it saves time and stress.

If you know very specifically what you want, their recommendation might not exactly fit with your needs, but if you're a neophyte or kind of unfamiliar with the product you're buying, their recommendations are really helpful. They often have a "best for must people" option, an upgrade pick, and a budget pick where appropriate. Their computer speakers review probably covers what you're looking for, functionality-wise.

Their budget pick, Logitech’s Z313 Speaker System (see the little update box at the top of the review), is probably close to what you're looking for, though it does have a subwoofer. If you don't like that, we've had fairly good luck in our home with Logitech's Z200 speakers. They're a little bass-y, and the sound isn't as clear as it could be, but they're another good budget pick if you don't want the subwoofer.

When I was in the market for speakers a couple months ago, I had a look, and I didn't care for the look of their current pick the Mackie CR3 (see that little update box, again), because it has some horrendously ugly green accents. I ended up picking the Edifier R1280T bookshelf speakers. I got turned on to the brand because of their upcoming upgrade pick. They're definitely pricier, but I think they're worth it for me, comparing sound quality against other stuff. Really excellent speakers at a pretty reasonable price (as these things go, at least).

i use this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076HRHT7Y/
also *very* happy with it.


powered by the tv's on/off, no noticeable latency (i even use it with gaming), basically instant boot up & connect, pretty great.


i would say if you're going to be swapping devices all the time the 'single button interface' is a bit goofy. various holds, and multiple taps, to enter pairing mode, connect, deconnect, and reset the dongle (if you want to unpair everything). mostly i have it set up exactly like i like it, and i rarely have the tv active while i'm also using my bt headset with anything else, so i just leave it in auto-connect. fwiw, i also haven't tested the dual output support.

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while having bt audio from the cc or casting device routing audio separately (synced) would be great (not needing yet more hardware), having bt support on the tv itself means you can use it with non-cast content as well. so that seems like a decent trade, and it's easier to keep in sync with the video...

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i would also say i prefer the BT transport to generic RF based 'tv headsets', since you get choice & reuse of your headphones, and won't be SOL when the headset/battery wears out in a couple years.

I would stop renting a modem from them. That's throwing money away.

You want to purchase a DOCSIS 3.0 modem to be current. Preferably, you'd want one that bonds eight downstream channels to handle the most bandwidth and also future-proof a bit. I would target a Motorola SB6141. This is probably the #2 best-selling cable modem, only behind the SB6121, which is cheaper because it only bonds four downstream channels. The more downstream channels the better, but the 6121 would be sufficient if you want to save some cash.

As far as the router (most important for in-house network traffic), something that's got access to custom firmware from Tomato or DD-WRT would be nice. The new ASUS routers are really popular. I'd go for the RT-N66U for a solid 802.11n wifi network. You get 3 antennas and it's dual band (2.4/5GHz). If you'd like to upgrade the router even further (and to really handle all the devices you'd connect to it) you may want to consider the new 802.11ac capable RT-AC68U. Stock firmware on these guys should be plenty good if you don't want to venture into flashing custom firmware.

Also, here's Google's list of compatible routers.

**

Slickdeals search queries:*

• SB6141 - $53 to $75
  
• RT-N66U - $80 to $100
  
• RT-AC68U - $149 to $160

I personally used my old Motorola Atrix HD, Flashed the latest Cyanogenmod on it, and placed it on Airplane mode to use it as my Chromecast remote. It works relatively well, is pretty smooth, the battery last me literally 3+ days, and I use it with Launcher 8 for a nice, quick, and minimalistic UI for my main "Media/Remote" apps and a quick swipe to the left for widgets, and a swipe to the right for the other apps. This is what it looks like.

But I'd personally opt against getting a shitty old Nexus 7 tablet and such for it will not only be oudated, but clunky.

If you want to have smooth sailing, and a great Remote, that's 720p, has great battery life and is buttery smooth without the need to flash it, get a Prepaid Moto G and then bypass the activation screen by doing the following:

>Bypassing the activation screen is easy, simply hit 1 next time, pull down the notification center, click on the multitasking button and swipe away the activation screen quickly.

This way you'll be paying $99 for a new Phone/Remote that will perform beautifully, and If you want to go the extra mile, you can flash a Nexus-Like ROM.

$120 for the self-powered PB42x is your basic entry level awesome-sauce, well loved by many audiophiles. They also are easy to power off 6S li-ion batteries- they advertise 18V DC power input (and come with an 18V wall power adapter) but accept up to 25V no problem (and rock a little more with the higher power).

How much space are you trying to fill up? Do you just want to do near-field listening? A small room? Bigger? What kind of budget? Audioengine makes some solid good self-powered speakers, in a range of prices. M-audio's AV series is pretty famous self powered monitors. JBL has the LSR305 and LSR308 which are well respected. Check https://www.reddit.com/r/Zeos/ and https://www.reddit.com/r/BudgetAudiophile/ for more. You can also get separate amplifiers and speakers of course.

Hello, I have not tried a single switcher with audio extraction, but I have been using these devices in various combinations for my setups which have changed over time -

HDMI audio extraction:

IMAGE® HDMI to HDMI + SPDIF +... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HMVMQOS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

HDMI multiplexer:

C&E CNE46126 HDMI 5x1 5-Port... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0XPCGQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

HDMI splitter:

Portta PET0104P HDMI Splitter 1x4... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LMN5N8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And finally as my audio goes to speakers without volume control built in:

Optical to RCA, Digital to Analog Audio Converter, Optical to Analog Converter with Remote, DAC Converter Support 192KHz/24bit with IR Remote Control, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCKQPGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bb1CR55BuC2uP

These devices work with each other well, and right now, I am using the HDMI audio extraction and optical to rca audio converter to connect my Chromecast to my projector and Bose companion 20 speakers, and it works great!

Hope this is helpful.

Although $15 more, consider the powered [Edifier 1280T] (http://www.edifier.com/us/en/speakers/studio-1280t-2.0-powered-bookshelf). These bookshelf sound great for the price point, are housed in a solid wood enclosure, have multiple audio inputs (including the 1/8-inch), remote for input switching and audio control, a 2 year warranty, and arrive with all the cables needed. It's currently the best selling bookshelf speaker on Amazon. Here's a [YouTube review] (https://youtu.be/7JgZIUDmbHo).

If you wish to save more, I also have another CCA connected to an ONEU Mini Amp that I've connected to a pair of used AR tower speakers that I scored buying from Goodwill for $20.

The Lepy amplifier - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=pd_aw_fbt_23_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H5GJH4RDGYM655TC5FA6 - is small, sounds great (many audiophiles recommend it), and has a 3.5mm jack input so is perfect for a Chromecast Audio. You can just leave it on.

I have this amp, along with a set of Wharfedale Diamond bookshelf speakers.

I'd really recommend using a proper Chromecast Audio rather than an in-built solution: easy to swap out to something else when the time comes.

Honestly, check out the Moto E or Moto G for this (depending on where you live). Newest OS, Really good specs for the cost, and the Moto G is as low as $70 on Amazon.

A cheap tablet is a good idea too. But I find cheap tablets are often slow and not really worth it in the long run. And this would be a nice small controller, like a nice little remote to put next to all the others that may be littering his coffee table.

T-amps are very small and have plenty of power to make some bookshelf speakers sound awesome. T-amps have a great sound in general:

https://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=T-amp&sitesearch=true

As for speakers, these sound really nice for the price:

Polk Audio Atrium 4 Outdoor Speakers (Pair, White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00378KMEG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qYVMzbFACWBP4

They're advertised as outdoor but are great in or out.

Edit: Another option is a USE Boom or a JBL Charge, both of which are waterproof. I think the JBL Charge 3 even has a USB out which you could use to power the CC, but don't quote me on that.

If they will be wired in all the time, why is the built in CCA so important? I have re purposed all kinds of speakers with CCA's.


Master Bedroom - Using a free Bose Wave Radio that was given to me.

Girls Room - I bought these Logitechs for $3.50 at Goodwill

Other Girls Room - Got this Yamaha on Craigslist for $25. Hooked it up with a $15 T-Amp off Amazon.

Living Room - CCA hooked up to a $70 Craigslist Onkyo receiver and some $70/pair Polk Atrium 4's. And a $20 Yamaha Subwoofer. Wall mounted the outdoor Polk's in a room that gets some rough housing so not worried about them breaking.

Kitchen - Google Home for $110 when it was new.

Office - Google Home for $75 deal at Walmart.


All works perfectly with multiroom and didn't spend more than $25 on any of the CCA's. So total cost for all six rooms was ~$540 total including all speakers and CCA's. Cheapest room was $23 with $20 CCA and $3 goodwill speakers. Most expensive was living room at $185 (reciever, polk speakers, subwoofer, CCA). The other benefit of not having it build in, is when the speaker dies you just swap it out.

If you are going to buy something, just get the Fire TV stick:
http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-W87CUN-Fire-TV-Stick/dp/B00GDQ0RMG
(or a video cable, like MHL-HDMI, if your phone supports it.)

It is US$40, good very good reviews, and it does Miracast as well as Amazon's version of casting. Miracast is a peer-to-peer so you don't need to connect to Wifi hotspot and it has better latency.

Here's the speakers I use with my CCA in my living room.
https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1280T-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016P9HJIA

They sound really good, and I can control the volume with my Harmony remote. It comes with a tiny remote, but I already had the Harmony hub so it was just easier that way, plus now I can control the volume with Alexa. These particular speakers have two aux-in ports, though I'm only using one with my CCA at the moment. Read the reviews on Amazon.

It doesn't appear to be HDCP. Googling the model # and HDCP gives 77 results including someone else trying to get theirs setup: https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/chromecast/DFiAvhdmyfE

Thanks for the help, I'm trying to learn more about HDCP from google, is a converter the same as an extractor? The only extractors I see are for audio.

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My research is giving me different answers as to the chrome cast working through something like this:

https://www.amazon.ca/HDMI-Converter-Audio-Extractor-Color/dp/B07K16LRD9/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1543345478&sr=8-13&keywords=hdmi+extractor+vga

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https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Converter-Google-Chromecast-Composite/dp/B00Z81EY8K

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: this one


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||
|Italy|www.amazon.it||
|India|www.amazon.in||




To help add charity links, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

Edit: Turns out Chromecast does require not just a wifi connection to communicate with devices on the network, but also an internet connection in order to run the "apps" that handle the steaming.

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Back when I was in living in my university's dorms and my roommates and I wanted to use Chromecast, we bought this TP-Link travel router ($25) to just create your own quick private wi-fi network.

If you buy that little guy (eligible for Prime), you can probably set him up at home and connect your Chromecast to it before you leave. Then you should just be able to plug them both in at the cabin, they'll reconnect to each other, and after connecting whatever device you're streaming from to the wifi network, you might be able to cast your movies. Of course, none of the connected devices will have an internet connection which may be required for certain apps/services to cast even if the content is stored offline but I can't tell you for sure which ones, if any.

Or, you can go the safest route (dare I call it "old-fashioned") and just get an HDMI adapter for your tablet. Let me know what tablet you have and I can find one that should work.

I'm reading them as a comparison to the Chromecast because that's how Amazon present it.

The first bullet point on http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GDQ0RMG is "4x the storage and 2x the memory of Chromecast" and they have an image on the left there that says "4x" in it.

Amazon are not just saying "hey, you could buy this instead of a Chromecast" they're specifically saying that it's better than a Chromecast because various quantifiable attributes of their device are greater than the attributes of the Chromecast - despite the fact that the devices operate differently and so the comparison is pointless.

It's like saying a car is "better" than a bus. Well, yes, it is in some ways - a car will probably get you from A to B faster and in more comfort. But a bus has a more powerful engine and you can read the paper while you're riding on the bus. They're devices that achieve similar ultimate ends, but in different ways, so it doesn't make sense to compare stats of one with stats of the other.

My man, look into powered bookshelf speakers.

~$70 Edifier R980T

~$100 Micca PB42X

I have both of these sets, each with Chromecasts plugged into them. They easily fill my house with gloriously loud music when I want. The Edifier pair even has multiple inputs, so I use them as both PC speakers, and Chromecast speakers. Simultaneously if I please.

I would go with the ASUS RT-N66U it is a great router and excellent range.
Amazon!

I bought this:

UGREEN Ethernet Adaptor for... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N1X28F1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Works a treat 👌🏻

Right now, you could get a Home for $109, and this Sonos 1 style Chromecast dock for $91.50, and a Chromecast Audio for $30.

That's about $230 before tax and shipping, and it's pretty simple. The CC fits in the dock with an included Toslink connector, and does auto-power on. Already multiroom, even though the Home is one room.

Or you could replace the dock with these powered bookshelf speakers for $120. (thanks r/BudgetAudiophile/) Still well under a Homepod, and now you have two good speakers, so far.

The cost difference would really run away if you tried to multiroom with the Homepod.

I would highly recommend the Micca bookshelf speakers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009IUIV4A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483218684&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bookshelf+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=515pxM5mGPL&ref=plSrch

Or the Dayton Audio bookshelf speakers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002RMPHMU/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483218684&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bookshelf+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=41h2GNNeZmL&ref=plSrch

With a small amp

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ULRFQ1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1483218848&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=turntable+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41phZQk-zFL&ref=plSrch

I have used all of them with my Chromecast Audio. They sound great.

I second what /u/darthgeek has said; there isn't really a way to make your Chromecast private without direct access to the router's configuration.

It's also very possible that device discovery won't be possible anyway; also most Unis I know use 801.2X authentication (basically, have to put in your uni email and a pass to connect) so the Chromecast won't work without the travel router anyway.

My friend uses this one and she says it works like a charm - notice it even says "Chromecast compatible" in the description.

It's OK, you'd still have to setup ad-hoc network on your windows machine. I'd use the generic edimax version of the asus travel router. You'll like get/give much better reception and it's only $21:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADHPP6Y/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1QHWJA16PQQ6DET2X2Z3&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846

I have an older HooToo from Amazon. Think I paid about $25 at the time. Works great and I'd recommend the brand again.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wta2AbX2REGC7

Your best option is to plug directly into your receiver if it has an HDMI port. If it does but they are full, you can get an external switch to change sources, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/. If neither of those options work, an audio extractor is your next option, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/. This will still output HDMI video, but also send the digital audio out an optical port so you still get surround sound, though you will probably get a few milliseconds of lag, probably nothing too noticeable. In the magical event you don't even have optical, it still has stereo outputs which, for music, will be just fine.

>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FCKQPGT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bb1CR55BuC2uP

Thank you, this is very helpful. I have a Question, are you able to play netflix with digital audio? A lot of the digital audio extractors seem to have an issue with netflix because of dolby digital plus.

I got this
one
and it works great!
It also lets me play audio only through my surround sound without having a TV on.

This is the one I have, super easy set up and has repeater, router, bridge and client modes. Set it up as a router at home initially, then anytime you go to a hotel just plug directly into the hotel Ethernet and you'll automatically have your own network wifi.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR702N-Wireless-Repeater-150Mpbs/dp/B007PTCFFW/ref=pd_sim_pc_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1RAV7R1T41HN5AMEJV55

If the hotel blocks the broadcast, use it as the adapter for a laptop when you connect to the wifi, then next time it connects on it's own it should be fine.

This is perfect! Just over $20, which is just the price I was looking for.

Link for those interested:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ADHPP6Y?vs=1

I purchased something similar from amazon.com in the states a couple of months ago
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBHX072
I have the chromecast on the HDMI imput then used a second cable to run the HDMI signal to my TV. The audio is pulled off and run into the CD imput on a very old Pioneer Receiver/Amp (VSX-9300) Then I ran the power to the converter box from a switched power input on the back of the receiver. This allowed me to power on the receiver only and then stream pandora to the chromecast/Receiver. If I want to stream to the TV, I can do that as well. So far it's working great.

Yup, that means it's working as intended. Nope they don't need the Chromecast app - that's only for setting it up. The only way to achieve what you want is to have the Chromecast on it's own network that is separate to the main network - not just extending the original network. This means that you require a router that gives out DHCP addresses and uses the original network as it's backhaul internet connection. A router like this: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR802N-Wireless-Repeater-300Mbps/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=dp_ob_title_ce would do the job. You connect it in Hotspot mode and tell it to use the existing wireless network or it's internet connection.

> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBHX072

Nice thanks! I have bought the NAS so once I have the TV I think this is the sort of thing I may need to pick up!

Looks like [this] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BIQER0E/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115&simLd=1) after a quick google search, I'll either get this ons or the vieuwHD one mentioned above! Thanks!

Hypothetical question, and forgive me for my naivety:

Would Videostream work if I would to purchase a NAS?...Llet's say this one? I recently started using plex and my laptop is my server. I was looking into network attached storage devices and found that many are incompatible with plex. What I am hoping is this would open up the door on more options for clouds that I could access remotely AND cast with Chromecast. Thoughts?

+1 for this the 1080p model and up are much better and I have had good experience with the UGREEN Ethernet adopter with the 1080p model (4k model has Ethernet) https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Ethernet-Adaptor-Chromecast-Network/dp/B01N1X28F1

Thanks for the clarification, so it looks like I'll be picking up a small travel router with the CC then. I'm looking for something tiny and cheap (less than $20 ideally) and works well with the CC. Any recommendations? I'm torn between these two:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HZWOQZ6

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007PTCFFW

Two things off the top of my head:

1. Buy a travel router like this one
   
   
2. Buy a USB wifi dongle so your laptop has two wifi adapters, then you should be able to connect to the hotel wifi with one adapter and share the connection with the other one

You'd be piggybacking another device in the chain, but something like this might work for you.

The top review on the page states that it can be used with chromecast to separate the audio and video streams.

If you have a laptop you may be able to set it up as a wireless hotspot after logged into the VPN. It think it's built into Windows 7, but you can also use something like Connectify. You can also use a Wireless Bridge. Your schools IT Department may become aware of bridge on the network though. For 20 bucks it can't hurt, but I would try to use your laptop as a bridge first.

I'm seeing the bookshelf, tower, and amp wiki pages. But is there a powered speaker recommendation page? I'd like to keep the solution in most rooms down to just a speaker/s and the Chromecast, no separate amp.


Edit: Okay, I see that powered speakers are sprinkled throughout the bookshelf list. And the thread notes that if there's no resistance ("ohm") or efficiency ("db") in the "Tech Specs" column, that's a powered speaker.

It's a bit disappointing that the cheapest powered option listed is $120. I don't doubt it's good, but I'm looking for a bit less $$, or if that much or more for it to be a more compact unit, like Sonos 1 or 3.

If your projector doesn't have an audio out then there are things that will split the audio out of your HDMI signal. Then you can plug in your speakers directly. This was the top result when I googled it but look around. There could be better ones for you.

You need to get a travel router. I got this one and it works great. [HooToo TripMate Nano] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZWOQZ6)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_MWHCzb5STSF6M

This guy works great as well and is less than half the price from the same manufacturer. No battery pack though

Honestly probably getting a cheap battery powered travel router on Amazon. Tp link makes some. Get one with WISP so you can connect to the hotel wifi then rebroadcast your own local wifi. That would be cheaper and more reliable than a RasPi.


https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Portable-Travel-Router/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538487713&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=travel+router&dpPl=1&dpID=41bvmr12GiL&ref=plSrch

I have found a couple ways around this. I carry two phones (one for work) so throwing up a hotspot and connecting both devices to that does the trick. If you don't have two, I have also found a portable router in a hotel works as well since you don't need an internet connection. Just plug it in and connect both devices. Something like this below...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007PTCFFW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1464787400&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=portable+router&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2Bf4kmQ1nL&ref=plSrch

I think the excellent tplink wr702n should do what you want.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B007PTCFFW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425597583&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=tp+link+tl+wr702n&dpPl=1&dpID=413Vno7RF8L&ref=plSrch
It has several modes of operation. One is to connect to an existing WiFi and create its own different WiFi ssid and password which you could set up cc on.

One thing that can cause a problem is if you need to go through a sign-on page to get on internet as these usually work by using Mac address of PC being used to sign on.
You can get round this by temporarily setting PC Mac address to same as cc Mac address when signing on.
Many posts on this forum how to spoof Mac address to work in hotels, unis etc.
I have a feeling this is what you mean when you say each room has its own username and password. I find it hard to believe each room has a unique WiFi access point I.e you will connect to an common WiFi ssid e.g "hospital", which may not even need a password and when you try to use internet up pops a logon menu. This is very common in hotels.
If it is like this you may not even need a second router, but just to spoof Mac address so you can sign in.

Could you clarify how you connect to internet in hospital?

Here's that same router on Amazon's US site:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ADHPP6Y/

Or, more expensive, but more versatile is this travel router, portable NAS, USB power bank, and more all-on-one box that I have just switched to and like so far:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ICEWB58

True. You can use a cheap toslink extractor / hdmi pass-thru if you want the option to run the Chromecast for audio without the TV on.

http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Premium-Extractor-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072

Hi. I don't really follow the religious part of this but I'm interested in understanding it. Is this part of the concept where you can't use machinery on the sabbath, as this guy is controlling your TV making you either have it on all day, or break you religious obligations by turning it off?

That was just for my interest. He's a dick regardless of that for a) controlling your chromecast and b) sticking his nose in your religion.

As said elsewhere here - maybe look into getting another router. Maybe this one. Allows you to connect the router to your current wifi, and set-up a private network from that that your neighbour won't be able to use.

Your app casting this files to Chromecast might send them in to good quality and Chromecast 1gen wifi won't take that.

Maybe connect Chromecast via cable? Search for "chromecast usb ethernet adapter" e.g. https://www.amazon.de/dp/B01N1X28F1/

I think you want a converter like this one https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Converter-Google-Chromecast-Composite/dp/B00Z81EY8K

This thread shares solutions to a similar problem, using chromecast in a hotel

https://www.reddit.com/r/Chromecast/comments/9kl6xh/using_chromecast_in_a_hotel_how_bad_of_an_idea_is/

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Get a cheap mini router with WISP mode. It will give you a private WIFI bubble and share your dorm's WIFI/internet connnection

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Portable-Travel-Router/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538487713&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=travel+router&dpPl=1&dpID=41bvmr12GiL&ref=plSrch

You can definitely get it in the UK.

And probably Canada.

I assume he means he wants something that splits the hdmi signal into digital video (hdmi/dvi) and analog or digital audio (3.5mm jack or optical).

And yes, there is such a thing.

I got got one of these hootoo travel routers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RJmGDb4W10W1A

It lets you setup a private network off the back of a public one like xfinitywifi our something similar.

I believe the answer to 1) would be http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Premium-Audio-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1404993797&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor

Something like that.

You could get something like this of you just wanted to use the audio portion.

If your monitor has an audio out try it... if not you'll need an HDMI to HDMI + Audio... like this one (there might be cheaper out there... this was just a quick search): https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072

No... Your projector needs to be on for that to work.

But you can plug the Chromecast into your AVR (if compatible) then out of your AVR to the projector.


Or, get a HDMI audio splitter... it's a passthrough box.


Chromecast ➡️ HDMI splitter ➡️ HDMI cable to projector, audio cable to AVR


Something like this


https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072

I assume the OP was more concerned with hearing new notifications pop up. If the concern is privacy, use a pocket router like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TQEX8BO/

I might look into that.

I found another one on Amazon with more reviews and also cheaper. Do you think this will also work?

https://www.amazon.com/HooToo-Wireless-Performance-TripMate-Hotspot/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Same thing happened to me. I bought this gizmo on Amazon, and it took care of the problem. $27 - Check it out: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBHX072/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think you can do it if you're willing to settle for two separate adapters - first a PoE to separate Ethernet+MicroUSB, and then Ethernet+MicroUSB to OTG.

For instance this Ethernet-OTG adapter - which I know works with a Chromecast - would probably work fine with this adapter this adapter.

You could use something like this to split out the audio signal from the chromecast, but that is a bit expensive for just doing that.

Like another comment said, they are most likely a rendering. They look very similar to Kanto and audioengine speakers.
A reasonably priced powered speaker set is made by micca but only comes in black. Micca PB42X Powered Bookshelf Speakers (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NXAEPDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ZOZ1wbMEPN3GH

An HDMI audio extractor would work if you had external speakers.

http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E

HDMI out to the tv, l/r or spdif audio to an amp or powered speakers.

If you don't have external speakers, you will need something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/E-More%C2%AE-Component-Converter-Supporting-Coaxial/dp/B00QTIYMQ0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449774767&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+convert+to+component

and use a component input on your TV. You need one of these with a scaler because I assume since the TV is old it won't accept 1080p over component so you can't use one of the cheaper straight HDMI to component adapters since the chromecast will output 1080p with no way to select.

They make HDMI audio extractors. You can find them on Amazon.

ViewHD HDMI Audio Extractor | Optical Toslink + L/R Stereo Analog Converter Outputs | VHD-H2HSAs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_-uh.wb9PTD9CY

>https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Portable-Travel-Router/dp/B00TQEX8BO/ref=mp\_s\_a\_1\_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538487713&sr=8-3&pi=AC\_SX236\_SY340\_FMwebp\_QL65&keywords=travel+router&dpPl=1&dpID=41bvmr12GiL&ref=plSrch

It does work w/ a travel router, or by cloning your phone's MAC address. That said, I agree... it is easier to use the HDMI adapter. I just hook my phone to the TV this way and use it for netflix and prime video while traveling. This also allows me to quickly and easily switch between VPN servers, or even watch movies I've "downloaded" to my device if I'm in a country w/ crappy internet.

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-TL-WR702N-Universal-Extender-Set-top/dp/B007PTCFFW

€20 for this bugger.

Get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WR702N-Wireless-Repeater-150Mpbs/dp/B007PTCFFW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395330377&sr=8-1&keywords=travel+router

Edimax BR-6258nL N150 WirelessPersonal Hotspot & Travel Router

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ADHPP6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_WKNBybVZBS1T0

This is the one I use with my chromecast: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BIQER0E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Has anyone considered getting a regular Chromecast instead of a Chromecast Audio and using one of these HDMI Audio Extractors (https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E) to cast just the audio?

option 1. get a fancy stereo that has HDMI passthough. you plug the CC into the stereo.

option 2. get a fancy doohickey - an hdmi audio extractor

option 3. run an audio cable out of the TV's headphone jack and into your stereo

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BIQER0E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheapest reliable "non-hackneyed" method is Fire TV Stick

I use this...

http://www.amazon.com/HooToo-TripMate-Wireless-Pocket-Travel/dp/B00HZWOQZ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419803685&sr=8-2&keywords=hootoo

It also allows to me load up a lot of media on an sd card for local play...

You can screen mirror without internet, but not cast. You still need a network both are connected to - it just doesn't require internet connection.

A travel router will work and is reasonably cheap.

I just use one of these and put it in bridge mode.

I think a [HDMI audio extractor](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBHX072/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_wZGOzbXHRRJM2) is what you are looking for.

Audio signal splitter such as this

You will need an HDMI pass through that extracts the audio if you don't have an aux/headphones out on it.

http://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Premium-Extractor-Converter-VHD-H2HSAs/dp/B00KBHX072

As for displaying the computer and Chromecast on the same screen that is most likely not possible at the same time. The screen would have to have pip or split screen and most computer monitors don't have that but you could always check.

I got this a while back. It worked with both Chromecast and my Wii U.

HDMI Converter for Google Chromecast: Use Chromecast with Older TVs that have Composite (red/white/yellow) Inputs. Includes Converter, Power Adapter Cable and Composite Video Cable. [NOTE: CHROMECAST SOLD SEPARATELY] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z81EY8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_PnK2wbG1J4Q6E

These are what I'm using on my CCA. Decent sound.

/u/jeanpoelie can verify that by comparing to the one they already have. the one on the store is rated 850a.

and in any case, there is always this - https://www.amazon.it/UGREEN-Adattatore-Chromecast-Ethernet-Alimentazione/dp/B01N1X28F1. Just need to add a 2a usb charger

This might solve your problem

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KBHX072#Ask

Recently bought this to plug my Chromecast directly into speakers with so we could cast Spotify without having Spotify Premium.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KBHX072/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now I have a Chromecast Audio just sitting around unused.

But no, I don't think you can integrate this into a video setup.

As others have said: no - you cannot use Ethernet via HDMI with the ChromeCast. You will have to use WiFi or buy an Ethernet Adapter for ChromeCast (like this). Google also offers an official adapter on their website.