Best products from r/Columbus

We found 29 comments on r/Columbus discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 182 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

18. Woder WD-S-8K-DC Water Filtration System - WQA Certified – USA Made Ultra High Capacity Direct Connect Under Sink Water Filter - Removes Chlorine, Lead, Chromium 6, Heavy Metals, Odors/Contaminants

  • MADE IN THE USA - NO PLUMBING REQUIRED – Comes with ‘Direct Connect’ hoses that fit standard 3/8” water valves under US kitchen and bathroom sinks. The 3/8” Direct Connect Hoses are made to install directly to existing cold water valve and faucet stem under your sink. Replacement Cartridges WD-S-8K-REP (ASIN B08BZMN7B1).
  • MADE IN THE USA - NO PLUMBING REQUIRED – Comes with ‘Direct Connect’ hoses that fit standard 3/8” water valves under US kitchen and bathroom sinks. The 3/8” Direct Connect Hoses are made to install directly to existing cold water valve and faucet stem under your sink. Replacement Cartridges WD-S-8K-REP (ASIN B08BZMN7B1).
  • MADE IN THE USA - NO PLUMBING REQUIRED – Comes with ‘Direct Connect’ hoses that fit standard 3/8” water valves under US kitchen and bathroom sinks. The 3/8” Direct Connect Hoses are made to install directly to existing cold water valve and faucet stem under your sink. Replacement Cartridges WD-S-8K-REP (ASIN B08BZMN7B1).
  • WQA GOLD SEAL CERTIFIED CARTRIDGE - WD-S-8K Cartridge is certified by WQA to NSF/ANSI 42 for Chlorine, taste, odor and NSF/ANSI 372 for lead free compliance as verified and substantiated by test data for 8,480 Gallons.
  • ADVANCED FILTRATION -The Woder WD-S-8K-ADV-DC removes Lead, Heavy metals, Chlorine, Mercury, PFCs, TMHs, VOCs, Glyphosate, Chromium 6, Trihalomethanes, detergent, turbidity, unpleasant odors and tastes. (claims tested by CLB Labs and are not certified by WQA).
  • COST EFFECTIVE UNDERSINK FILTRATION SOLUTION - Woder WD-S-8K-ADV-DC is priced to deliver the best value available, based on an unbeatable combination of low price, quality, and longer life. ADVANCED SELECTIVE FILTRATION TECHNOLOGY - Removes 99.9% of contaminants, while maintaining essential minerals.
  • ULTRA HIGH CAPACITY - 8,480 Gallons (Capacity is dependent upon local municipal water quality). Flow Rate: 2GPM @65psig. EASY INSTALLATION - NO PLUMBING REQUIRED - QUICK CARTRIDGE REPLACEMENT - System comes with automatic shut off valve.
Woder WD-S-8K-DC Water Filtration System - WQA Certified – USA Made Ultra High Capacity Direct Connect Under Sink Water Filter - Removes Chlorine, Lead, Chromium 6, Heavy Metals, Odors/Contaminants
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Top comments mentioning products on r/Columbus:

u/Casoral · 1 pointr/Columbus

Hi! I don't know anything about cars, but I'm always cold! This is how I get through the winter:

For a coat, you'll want to get a down parka that at least covers your hips. Try on couple different lengths and see what you think is comfortable. My coat comes down to mid-thigh. You need to buy a coat with a hood.

For your hands, mittens are actually better than gloves if you have cold hands. Gloves separate your fingers, while mittens keep them together (sharing the warmth). I basically have 10 pairs of wristies, and wear them under mittens. When I need dexterity, I just take my mittens off and just wear the wristies. I would rather wear the wristies than wear gloves, if I was given the option. As far as mittens, I have several pairs. I have cute mittens that aren't that warm, but are good for going to work and back. And heavy-duty insulated dad-like mittens like these. You can also order a couple of these disposable hand warmers. A 30-pack will last you multiple winters. I put them in my wristies.

For your head, always have a hat or headband on when it's cold. My face gets *so cold*, so sometimes I wear a neck warmer. Skida makes neck warmers (and hats and headbands!) with super cute patterns, so you won't look like a serial killer.

For your feet, I wear darn tough socks, because merino wool is incredible. I wear them on hiking trips in the summer, and in the winter, they keep my feet really warm without being bulky (so I can still wear cute boots!). You can get them at places like REI, or online. Boots are super personal. I actually don't own a great pair of snow boots right now, because we don't typically get that much snow. I have hiking boots sort of like this that I wear when it's really snowy. But there are a ton of great options available. Honestly, I'd go somewhere like REI and try on a bunch to find what's comfortable. But you can probably make it through the winter without something super specialized.

Good luck!

u/bigbear10000 · 1 pointr/Columbus

In terms of affordability it really is hard to go wrong with online. There are several great options to purchase inexpensive, but super high quality mattresses online.

I just bought a mattress online myself, ended up going with the Leesa. But here are all of the choices I looked at:

Leesa - $890 for queen, neutral firmness, uses Avena foam (similar, but better than latex), has memory foam middle layer, cool design, great price (really cool company too, they give back lots of the community)

Casper - $840 for queen, supposed to be a bit softer then the Leesa, uses latex and memory foam

Tuft & Needle - $600 for queen, one of the cheapest options I found, but also seems to be firmer. If you like firmer could be a good fit.

Yogabed - $899 for queen, similar to the Leesa in may ways, has some cool extras, a few unknowns in terms of the foams they use though

Saatva - $899 for queen, the one online innerspring mattress I found, great option if you really want innerspring. Has a euro-style pillow top, not sure how that would feel though.

Nature's Sleep - ranging prices $800-$1300 for a queen, a more traditional retailer, but had some interesting stuff, especially if you're looking 100% memory foam

For your frame there are a few different options. My wife and I had a platform bed already, so that's what we are using. It was around $600.

IKEA is always an option for cheap with a pretty good number of options. Also, there is this metal box spring / frame option available on Amazon. Hard to beat the price on that.

u/captainstormy · 1 pointr/Columbus

Sorry, I can't help you with the pet safe thing. I do have a lot of experience fighting ants since I bought my house 3 years ago and have been reasonably successful.

First summer we owned the house, ants invaded it. Mostly through the addition that now serves as a first floor laundry room.

I used the indoor terro ant liquids and they worked great. But I do believe the website says they weren't pet safe. It wasn't a concern for me.

Once you do win the indoor battle, take the battle out to the yard and don't let the ants invade again.

I keep several of these in my back yard all spring, summer and fall.

They probably aren't pet safe either, but it's outside and completely encased in a pretty hard plastic. I keep them in places that are out of the way of my mower to make it easier. Right up against the house, garage, shed, fence, etc etc.

I spread a good dusting of this around the perimeter of my house.

I also had carpenter ants in the base of one of my trees that this took care of as well.

I also sprinkle this bait around the house, garage, shed, etc etc.

Those three things outside, have meant I don't have ants inside anymore. I see lots of ant colonies and such as I walk the dog through my neighborhood. Some of them are pretty good size. But they aren't around my place. Or my neighbors for that matter, I think I've probably cleared up their ant problems for them as well.


Once you do get rid of the ants inside, fight them in your yard so you don't have to fight them in your house again.

u/itsreallyreallytrue · 3 pointsr/Columbus

So the rule of thumb is to dress for about 20 degrees warmer than it is outside. This means if it's 40's you are still in shorts. Some people can tolerate the cold better and the wind is also obviously a factor. So these numbers obviously vary by individual.

Somewhere in the 30's you switch to pants, some people don't do this until freezing, I personally do it in the upper 30's depending on wind.

Once we hit freezing and especially once there's a cold breeze you will want to start layering up on top. A base compression layer and a wind breaker. Or a base layer and a fleece.

Somewhere in the 20's I switch to wearing tights instead of pants. There are different thickness tights out there, thinner ones in the mid to low 20's. In the teens I put on the thicker tights made for running in such conditions. I use a pair of Sugoi midzero and Sugoi sub zero tights and some random target ones as well. I've used the subzero tights in runs under 0F and they work as advertised (and ran a 50k in 6F starting temps in them).

Outside of tops and bottoms you will need something for your neck and face as it gets into the 20's. I recommend the buff's made for winter running, they can also double as hoods or face masks. Once we hit the teens and single digits I also start wearing a balaclava. Then there is wool hats, wool socks and most importantly running gloves and mittens for colder temps. You really want specialty mittens, they made a huge difference and you can also bring chemical warmers to hold onto if it's super cold.

For shoes regular road shoes seem to work just fine, socks matter more, in icy conditions I put on a pair of microspikes over the shoes for traction.

u/NotAlanAlda · 19 pointsr/Columbus

As the unwritten code of Reddit has dictated, I must appear when paged to offer arcade related advice.

First things first, let's do some basic troubleshooting to determine what is exactly wrong. I'm assuming it has once worked for you and the screen not working is a recent of sorts development here, so correct me if I'm wrong and we'll go from there. You should be able to plug the game in and it operates as normal with the exception of the screen, you'll hear the sounds as you coin it up, the start button lights work correctly, and it will play "blind" as we call it. If that's the case, you're more than likely a culprit of an aging and failed monitor chassis. If you're handy with a soldering iron and not afraid of high voltage, there's ways to repair them good as new. If you're more of a artsy type or non-engineery person, luckily there's a few options available to you for repair.

  1. Send your monitor chassis off for repair. There's a few people out there that do excellent repair work on these older monitors, Chad from ArcadeCup, and Buffett are two I'd recommend to anyone needing quality work. If you send in the chassis to them they'll want it to be separate from the tube. If that's the route you go, let me know and I'll gladly help you safely remove the chassis from the tube for the low low cost of an alcoholic beverage. The downside to this option is that it can be a very long turn around time, these guys are getting busier as the hobby continues to grow in popularity. It's also going to cut into your pocket to the tune of 150-200 bucks plus shipping.

  2. There actually are a few local options for professional service too, I can't vouch for them as I haven't used either of them (A mechanic never goes to the mechanic), but they're Shaffer Distributing, and the goddamned place I can't remember the name of, sorry. Now grain of salt, it's been years since I know they offered that service, so if they say nay, maybe ask around at Gotcha Gapon or Old North, not sure if they have a guy or not.

  3. Buy a new monitor! This also requires some deal of mechanical aptitude, as it involves getting the old one out and doing some rudimentary hooking up and modifying to get the new one to fit. It's also not as simple as running to Microcenter and getting a 19" LCD monitor to throw in there. Modern arcade LCD replacements are still fairly pricey, but they can be purchased online from eBay, Amazon, and specialty arcade sites for around $300 bucks. Would I recommend this route? Not personally, no, it just doesn't have that same eye-melting CRT radiation 1982 feel that the original monitors had. Unfortunately they don't make a new 19" CRT, so if you're not a filthy purist like me, go for the new tech!

  4. Take a chance and learn a new skill. There's sooooo much information out there at our fingertips right now, there's thousands of YouTube tutorials, millions of forum posts, and tons of helpful guys out there that will assist you with any silly little question you have about your burgeoning interest in arcade restoration. Plus, if you fix your first monitor, you get exclusive access to the super secret Arcade Repair and Restoration Club, and I'll personally teach you the handshake!

  5. I stopped doing housecalls a long time ago, but if you get in over your head with this, send me a PM. I also suffer from "Got too many things ahead of you" to promise anything, but I do have a soft spot for a Centipede.
u/DamienJaxx · 9 pointsr/Columbus

I do a little. It's not too difficult, it's pretty much like cooking anything - follow the recipe at first until you figure out what to change on your own to make different flavors. I'd recommend starting out with How To Brew by John Palmer. It has a good blend of technical plus practical advice.

Get yourself a simple kit, some grolsch style bottles and an ingredients kit. The most important part of brewing beer is sanitation - clean and sanitize everything! You don't want any stray bacteria getting into your batch and ruining it. If you've got a basement, that's a pretty good place for fermentation, otherwise a closet works just fine. The biggest problem I have is finding people to drink 5 gallons worth of beer.

Head over to /r/homebrewing for even more advice.

u/JayV30 · 2 pointsr/Columbus

I've been pretty happy with this simple under counter filter:

Woder 10K-Gen3

I use it with a dedicated faucet for the filtered water - not sure I'd be happy with the water pressure if it was hooked directly to my main faucet. But the water tastes great and while I haven't changed the filter yet, it looks really easy.

u/silliesandsmiles · 1 pointr/Columbus

Ok, let me break it down for you.

The tunic could be made out of a cost effective, medium quality cotton - let’s say it’s $10/yard, and you need 2.5 yards. That’s $25. Now it has some yellow accent or embroidery. You could either use trim, paint it on, or embroider it. There’s no way your budget allows for embroidery, so let’s say you paint/trim it. $10 for those materials. No pattern will exist for that cut on the tunic, so that’s 2 hours to pattern that, plus another 1-3 hours for the detail work. Then another 4 hours to make it more if you want the exact design painted on, rather than a standard gold trim used). So for the tunic alone, we are looking at $35 for materials and $80 for labor. That’s $115 for that piece alone.

Now we have the pants. Those need to be made out of a thicker twill, $13/yard. You need a lot of yardage for pants, I’d guess 3.5 yards. That’s $40 dollars. Notions for things like a zipper is another $5. They could be made from a standard pattern, but would need about 5 hours to construct. Materials $40, Labor $50. Total = $90.

Now let’s get to the pauldron. Faux leather is average $13/yard. You need at least four yards to make a large tailored jacket like that. Plus four yards of lining, let’s say $4/yard. That’s $60 in material to start. Now it needs to be patterned. That’s a tailored jacket, so it needs to be patterned well. Let’s say four hours. Now another 6 hours to cut and sew the jacket. That’s ten hours, so $100 dollars. Again, this is all what a novice is going to price this at. Labor and materials brings us to a break even of $160. Again, craftsmen must make a profit, so $200 for this item is totally reasonable.

The boot covers could be made from a pattern, would need about 2 yards of the faux leather at $13/yard. Four hours to make them for $40. That’s $66 break even for the boot cover.

All in, just to cover the bare minimum costs of making this costume, you are looking at $431 - that’s only labor and materials. Again, nothing but a novice craftsmen would charge this price. It barely covers the cost of making the costume, I didn’t even account for things like business expenses, taxes, listing fees, shipping costs, maintenance cost on tools, and actually making a profit.

At the end of the day, it does not matter how simple you think this costume is. If it were that simple, you would make it yourself! In fact, you could easily make the tunic, boot covers, and pants by adding the designs to store bought items, then spend your money on the pauldron. This is what the majority of most cosplayers who don’t wish to spend a lot of money do. They alter existing pieces. You could buy a tunic on Amazon for a very affordable price, cut the buttons off, and glue some gold trim on the edges. Then just find some pants at a thrift store, and allocate your budget to the pauldron. You can always add custom made items for the tunic and pants later.

If you are searching, “varic from dragon age cosplay”, the costumes you are seeing would (almost all) cost over $1000 to have someone make it for you. Just as a reference.

u/Vayate · 8 pointsr/Columbus

If you buy your electricity from IGS (eg you signed up over the mail or from one of those door-to-door salespeople), you'll see some distribution charges from AEP and then the charge for the actual energy from IGS. Definitely call IGS if you think there's a problem or you didn't mean to sign up with them. They don't have a cancellation fee, so you can stop using them whenever you want. Also check the price-to-compare on your bill. It's below the due date. If you're being charged less per KWH than the price-to-compare, you're (theoretically) saving money over buying from AEP.

The energy charge will tell you how many KWH you used in the last billing cycle, and you can use your previous bills to tell if you're using more energy than normal. The AEP website also has a page with a graph showing you how much energy you've used per month over the past couple years. It's at the bottom of the account summary page, just click "more usage info." Hopefully that will help you find an explanation, because that's a pretty big bill even if you have all-electric heat.

If you're using one of those small electric heaters a bunch, that will definitely drive your bill up since those things are like 1500 watts. If you're heating a bedroom or something, try a radiator heater. They're a little more efficient and the heat tends to be less dry.

u/TH3BUDDHA · 4 pointsr/Columbus

I bought this book and I have loved exploring the trails in it. The hike at Clear Creek Metro Park is by far my favorite. People have mentioned meetup. I recommend the HikeOhio! group, specifically. I've done a hike down at Hocking Hills with them and it was a good time.

u/pneal0602 · 5 pointsr/Columbus

What @harrybulsach said. They aren't going to watch you unless it's for ODOT or probation, in which case good look. If not, just grab yourself one of these guys:


If you're hoping to convince them to change the results, it's not gonna happen, sorry. They don't even test them, they just take said sample and send them off to the lab.


Hope this helps.

u/sluggermoore · 8 pointsr/Columbus

I am so excited to finally see my game published by TMG! It was three years ago when I first signed the contract and I have been patiently waiting for its release. Solar Draft is a light drafting (Ticket to Ride style drafting) game where you are a fresh new Solar Architect trying to build the best new solar system.

Here is the BGG:

And here it is on Amazon:

u/aexny · 4 pointsr/Columbus

First get a Lowes 10% off coupon -- I believe these are available from the post office by looking/asking for the packet of stuff they provide with change of address forms. Then go to Lowes and look for the scratch and dent stuff. Many of these will only have cosmetic damage to the relatively thin outside skin, while the important part, the vessel which actually contains the water, is perfectly fine. IIRC, there's relatively little difference between models, and you're effectively paying for the rated (warrantied) lifespan. So with a smaller (40G) scratch-and-dent unit with a shorter (6Y) lifespan plus the 10% coupon, you might just be able to get away with spending under $300/electric, $400/gas for the water heater itself.

As for installation, the plumbing is straightforward if you use "shark bite" connectors and flex hose. It's not as good as soldered copper, but if you're not looking to get 40 years out of it, it's a viable alternative -- and very simple to DIY. See: and a million youtube vids on how to do this. Oh, and get a simple copper pipe cutter to cut your existing pipe to the right length -- they're only a few bucks.

The hard part is electrical or gas work. This is the part where you might want to call in a pro -- especially if it's gas. But if everything above is already done, getting someone to work on only this part might save you a bundle. And if you live in Columbus, you might also be able to skip whatever permit fees an installer will collect for the city.

This concludes the cheapskate's guide to water heater replacement. Don't forget to post back and let us know how it goes, whatever the solution you end up with.

u/RayRay614 · 5 pointsr/Columbus

It is a little device that difuses their cartridges into the air around you creating a "safe zone". I've been skeptical but more and more people keep telling me about it. I might go pick one up for the 4th of July BBQ and see if it helps.



They have a larger patio model as well I believe.

u/aresfour · 2 pointsr/Columbus

Is this for you, or a gift? Tissot makes a few different watches in your range, I would suggest looking for an automatic or manual wind watch instead of a battery powered quartz watch. There are a few jewelry stores in Columbus that sell Tissot, google can help there. Something like this:

u/atbPy · 1 pointr/Columbus

I have had the Anker Roav A1 for about a month now, Anker Roav DashCam A1, Dash Cam... The video quality is good. I will have to see how it holds up over time. The suction cup did fall often when it was super hot but seems to be stable now. It uses 1GB of disk for every 10 minutes so I’d recommend at least a 64 GB SD card. I got the Sandisk High Endurance Video one.

u/WorldsWorstTroll · 3 pointsr/Columbus

I picked up a dashcam after I was hit downtown. The other driver swore up and down that I was the one who ran the red light. If it weren't for the red light camera he could have gotten away with saying that.

This is the one I have: I got it as a lightning deal a while back. I think I paid about $50 for it.

After this, I am probably going to get a dual channel version. Someone work with pointed out that my video looks like it could have been me merging into the lane where the truck was already going straight.

u/cbusdavid · 5 pointsr/Columbus

Almost all of them do, Iv got mine in my cigarette lighter and roles the moment the car turns on.

If your cigarette lighter will still pull from the battery after the car turns off you may need to hardware it.

Iv been pleased with this model