(Part 2) Best products from r/Comcast

Cable modem\routers are easy to get by nowadays, you can grab one off from amazon, best-buy or even your local wallmart, just make sure that the modem model number is Docsis 3.0
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Ethernet-Archer-C50/dp/B0168G0KZY/
this is a pretty good router, you can connect multiple devices plus this also has 4 reliable wire ports for wired connection

in the end I would also say that you should check out spectrum their Modem\Router is pretty amazing
plus they also have some amazing deals for triple play and double play bundles

Depends what you want. From Comcast's perspective, all you need at a minimum is a compatible cable modem. It's easier if it's on their approved list. Any would likely work, but you'll have less issues if anything goes wrong if you choose one from here. Here's their link:

https://mydeviceinfo.xfinity.com/

The cable modem connects to your cable line, outputs an ethernet connection that you can then use with the rest of your equipment. At that point, you probably need a wireless router, unless you're just plugging a single computer into the modem itself. The router plugs into your cable modem, and expands your network from being just a single ethernet port, to any wireless devices you want to connect to it. It also might have additional ethernet ports on it if you want to connect directly (wired will be better performance than wireless).

Most people recommend keeping the cable modem and wireless routers separate, as you then can upgrade/replace separately if needed. But there are options where they are combined all in one single device, which might be helpful for simple networks. To find those combined devices, just check "built-in wifi" on the xfinity device page, and it will show you those compatible models.

A separate Wifi router that plugs into the cable modem can be just about anything you like, from the cheapest setup up to a whole house mesh with several different access points. They are all "compatible" with Xfinity, as all of them will just plug right into the cable modem to connect up to the network.

If you do end up going with a separate cable modem / wireless router setup, it is sometimes useful to put the cable modem in "bridging" mode. This means that the cable modem sometimes functions as a router as well by default, even if it's just a modem. Then by putting another router behind it, it can sometimes cause issues, especially if you have people on your network with game consoles and some other similar uses. Bridge mode turns off most/all routing from the modem, and the wireless router behind the modem is the only device performing routing - it receives the external IP address as far as Xfinity is concerned, not the cable modem's ethernet port.

My recommendation, for what it's worth, would be the Motorola MB8600 (~$150), with the Google Wifi setup ($100 for one, $260 for 3), 1 puck for each 1500 sq ft of house.

For my modem I use SB6183 (yes, I buy refurb) for $70, and have had great luck in general with the surfboard / arris line. This one is good for up to ~600Mbps (which is far faster than what Comcast sells me now).

For routers I go with Asus; huge user base and they're super solid. You can get this one for $60 ; it goes faster than most every speed tier that comcast currently offers in any market, so you can be sure it won't be the bottleneck on your network.

If you go with that set it'll take you a little more than a year to break even, but at that point you have it paid off and you have the peace of mind that you're in control of your own network.

Good luck!

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Archer-C7-Wireless-1300Mbps/dp/B00BUSDVBQ/ref=lp_300189_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465235905&sr=1-1


This is my current recomendation for cost effective wifi + 4port home routers. DDWRT support if you want to get frisky. Solid stock software if you dont, very good performance from a great chipset.

Im personally using one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Linksys-Wireless-Dual-Band-Anywhere-EA6900/dp/B00EXK14S0/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465236043&sr=1-3&keywords=AC+linksys

For the last year and its done a pretty great job, although the stock firmware is very bleh, and cloud based which i disliked immensely. DD WRT on it is very powerful and it even successfully served 12 gamers during a 72 hour event i hosted at my house.

Right off the top of my head the PS3 uses an 802.11G wifi adapter which would lock the WiFi network to an 802.11G mode which would produce speeds in the range of 20 mbps over wifi.

The laptop MAY have the same problem.

So what you would want to do is power down your devices, press and hold the reset button on the back of your modem for 25 seconds to preform a factory reset.

Then power them on and test the speed on your devices in this sequence : ipad 3, ps4, laptop, ps3. Stop testing when speeds fall to 20 MBPS because you have found your culprit. At that point you can look into replacing or retrofitting the device (in the case of the tablets, replacing with newer model, in the case of the other hardware, retrofitting)

Don't ask why it does that, I didn't design it.

Also, depending on how you're testing the speed you could be getting a false positive on the low speeds, as the PS3 and PS4 will test your speeds on the PLAYSTATION network but not actual network speed.

OOKLA has a speedtest app you can download for the ipad and for the PC you would want to use Speedtest.comcast.net.

You mentioned 2 stories, so you may want a wifi extender to extend the signal coverage on the 2nd story (1st story?) and would definitely want a wifi extender if the floorspace of your home is greater than 2000 square foot.

If you really want a dedicated router then you would want one where you could turn DCHP off, and the only ones I am familiar with that have that capability are the ASUS brand, Netgear or Linksys might have that capability but I'm not as familiar with them so they might not. Also apple airports.

For actual specs you would want an 802.11AC unit. http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-AC1750-Gigabit-Router/dp/B008ABOJKS/

or http://www.amazon.com/Apple-AirPort-Extreme-Station-ME918LL/dp/B00DB9WCR6/

Why would you want something where you could turn DHCP off you ask? Just in case there is a problem with turning DHCP off on your TG862G.

Why would you want 802.11AC? Range. http://www.pcworld.com/article/2061907/all-about-beamforming-the-faster-wi-fi-you-didnt-know-you-needed.html

Now, personally I prefer routers with visible, external antennas, and I'd like 4x4 MIMO which is just a fancy way of saying it has 4 antennas and uses them.

Any followup questions?

Hey, I was talking with a user in another thread and he mentioned something about a puma 6 chipset which some models use which apparently have problems. They may have partially fixed it with a firmware update but I don't think it's fully fixed. There may be lag issues with that model modem you are getting (SB6190).

If they haven't shipped it yet I would cancel the order. It MAY work okay but honestly I would just return it so you don't have any headache.

It seems like the better choices are the model below it, which I actually just bought used for $34, or the new model with DOCSIS 3.1 which is a bit expensive but is very future proof and about $160 after coupon right now on amazon.

I thought I'd alert you before you set up that modem! It's crazy they're still selling it like hotcakes. Maybe the issue isnt that bad but I personally wouldn't use it. It should be an easy return because its amazon.

edit: If you want a model in between the model below it and the very new model, this $99 Netgear is about the same price and is comparable to the one you bought (though a few less channels) and doesn't have any of the puma 6 problems.

Well, one way you can determine which cable is the one you want is with a toner.
Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-VDV512-058-Explorer-Tester/dp/B004CHVOBG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505149010&sr=8-3&keywords=cable%2Btoner&th=1
put one of the remote end at the jack, then use the other part of the device at the other end of the cable. If you get a good light, you found it.

Now, if you dont get any lights at the termination end, then there is a break somewhere in the run.
First thing to check is remove the wall plate and make sure the wire is secured to the back of it.
If that checks out, then the fun begins of tracing that wire.
Generally, if this is up on the second floor, I bet it goes up into the attic before heading down to where the rest terminate.

The WRT54GL is likely still fine if it's still in good working order. It's a classic, but it's certainly still useful. It's wireless is theoretically limited to 54Mbps double what you pay for.

I use at home:

http://www.amazon.com/RT-N66U-Dual-Band-Wireless-N900-Gigabit-Router/dp/B006QB1RPY/

and own a few

http://www.amazon.com/Linksys-WRT1900AC-Dual-Band-Wireless-Anywhere/dp/B00KEK4Q5Q/

Both are great but quite expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I1PhDb42NG8FY

Something like this would work (its what i use). A gigabit switch wont slow you down at all and should be pretty future proof. You just run one cable from your modem to the switch (input 1) and then plug your PCs into the other inputs. I would recommend running 2 cables though, if you're already running one, putting a back up cable in isnt much more trouble and will save you a lot of time if your primary cable gets cut or chewed up or anything like that, your backup would already be installed.

This router has worked great for me. Even giving me speeds higher than I pay for.

I didn't buy it on Amazon I bought it at best buy and asked for a price match to get it right away. Also did this for the Modem.

I use this one. But it may be overkill unless you need all the features. It's the best modem/router combo I've ever used and waaay better than Comcast's gateway (despite them both being made by the same company).

That said, any basic docsis 3 modem should do fine. The Moto seem to be most popular.

If you only have the 75 Mbps plan, this is completely sufficient: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B010Q29YF8?psc=1

I set it up for my brother and it's fine. I also set up the following motorola one at my parent's place and it also works fine. No need to get a super fast one if you only have a 75 Mbps plan (both modems can go much faster than that too).

I have personally tested both on Comcast, the TP on a 75 Mbps and the Motorola on a 150 Mbps plan. Both get speeds over the plan's advertised ones. Course you still only get about 12 Mbps up because Comcast is lame, but if you need upload go look at their business class I guess. Either way, both of these modems are great and will saturate your connection both ways if you need to.

http://www.amazon.com/ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6141-DOCSIS-Cable/dp/B00AJHDZSI/

Edit: Added a sentence.

>Would anyone be able to tell me if a combination of a TP-Link TC-7610 modem and TP-Link Archer AC1750

The router should be fine, although the Archer C7 is starting to get long in the tooth, and I don't think it has the granular traffic control features that newer routers have. For example, I have a C7 (V4), and it doesn't come close to the options that my Asus RT-AC3200 gives for traffic control. Maybe the ASUS RT-AC68U would be a better fit, you'll have more control, especially with the Merlin WRT firmware.

The modem, I don't know why you would want an 8x4 modem. The 4 channel modems are being phased out, and depending on your plan, an 8 channel modem might not get you the full speed if your plan goes faster than 200Mbps.

At a minimum you should get a 16 channel modem, the Zoom 5370 16x4 Cable Modem is a decent modem, as is the TP-Link TC7650 DOCSIS 3.0 (24x8) High Speed Cable Modem.

I have a bigger list of recommended modems and routers on my subreddit if you want to look at other options.

There's multiple options for using your in-wall coaxial for wired networking. The specific option you would use usually depends on what TV provider you are using over that coax

• If you have cable, you can get MOCA adapters which will send the network traffic over your coaxial cable in a way that does not conflict with your cable TV service.
  
• If you have DirecTV, you can get DECA adapters, which are essentially the same thing as MOCA but compatible with the DTV signal on the same cable.
  
• If you have an IPTV service like Uverse, you can get HPNA adapters.
  
  I'll assume you have cable here since we're in the Comcast sub. Setup for each of them is essentially the same though. A MOCA adapter usually has one Ethernet port and two coaxial ports (one to the wall, and one to the TV). If you want to plug in more than one device in your room, you will need to use a switch in that room. Having two coax ports means you can use the wall coax for both TV and networking simultaneously.
  
  You need at least two MOCA adapters, one in each area you are trying to network. I would expect you would put one in the room where your existing router is, and the other in your room. I have a set of Actiontec bonded MOCA 2.0 adapters that do gigabit over coax, but there are also cheaper older versions that do about 300 mbps. MOCA supports mesh networking too, so if you want to add any additional rooms to your network, just add another adapter to that room, and it will be able to see the other two (or more) rooms.
  
  Once everything is plugged in, it should just work. There was no configuration I had to do on mine, they just immediately saw each other.

You may get some more range out of an AC router, so that could be a small bonus.

You might also check on power line ethernet adapters, as they are cheaper than MoCa (This is not a product recommendation, but something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=psdc_1194444_t3_B008C1JC4O).

https://www.amazon.com/Commscope-CSMAPDU9VPI-HomeConnect-Amplifier-Connectivity/dp/B0779YQD38/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=comcast+splitter&qid=1550254951&s=gateway&sr=8-12

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? does comcast give you it for free? And what about this link?

See recommended modems at http://mynewmodem.comcast.net/.

Inside you'll either need to setup a WiFi network that you extend or maybe use home powerline networking (see stuff like http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PA4010KIT-Powerline-Adapter-Starter/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464889446&sr=8-1&keywords=home+powerline+networking)

I bought the Arris TM822R from Amazon Warehouse deals, used for $118. It was the cheapest I could find a modem that should work with Comcast (R model), and that I could return for free if it didn't work.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B06XD6VQ1J/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

That FW update pushed that branded the UI as Arris ruined it, it was perfectly fine before they pushed untested code.

A client has the same issue so I've got them the CM500 + Asus AC68U going in this weekend. Should be unfathomably different.

http://www.amazon.com/RT-AC68U-Wireless-AC1900-Dual-Band-Gigabit-Router/dp/B00FB45SI4

You can accomplish this with MoCA. I use these in my home and they’re indistinguishable from being plugged directly in the switch, they’re incredibly fast.

If you already have WiFi routers (and I'd suggest you have separate WiFi and modem so they can be replaced individually) then all you need is this TP Link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010Q29YF8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages01

It supports most speeds that people use, and it only takes 5-6 months before it's pays for itself.

http://www.amazon.com/SURFboard-SBG6782AC-DOCSIS-AC1750-Router/dp/B00GJ7Y7MU/ref=dp_ob_title_home

Most on here would recommend purchasing your modem and router separately however.

Yea. A emta like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XD6VQ1J/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502387354&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=emta+modem&dpPl=1&dpID=41nB%2BoJ-NQL&ref=plSrch

I'm using http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FB45SI4 ... currently, I've tested out the R7000 and the range isn't as good, and the RT-68U seems to penetrate concrete walls a bit better (if you have any). Although if you want a bad ass router, and don't want to worry about the cost. You go for this one.. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320244&cm_re=rt-ac5300-_-33-320-244-_-Product

Stay away from SB6190. If you want future proof then go all the way to DOCSIS 3.1 using the SB8200.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SKK1G

Here is the mobile version of your link

Can also go with: https://www.amazon.com/Google-Wifi-system-single-point/dp/B01MDJ0HVG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1492452575&sr=1-2&keywords=google+wifi

Here’s the link:

Next-Generation ARRIS SURFboard SB8200 DOCSIS 3.1 Cable Modem - Retail Packaging- White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6SKK1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_d0Nvzb1VP51K5

I see some used or refurbished for $140.

You will need to unplug the other modem before this one will activate. Usually this will result in the other modem not working as well.

I would sell your modem and get one of these:
TP-Link AV500 Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, up to 500Mbps (TL-PA4010KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWRUICG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_STFszbNTDBP9A