Best products from r/DIY

Wood is always the best material! Here's what I've learned so far on how to make non-ugly wood-based things:

-1) Plan, plan plan plan plan plan plan. Take measurements. Draw. Scratch your head. Go to the store and measure the wood you'll be using. Draw some more. Swear a bit. Nothing will save you if you don't plan out your design well.

0) Measure thrice cut once - Don't get antsy with your cuts. Make sure you have the right measurement, then make sure again. Mark your cut with a pencil and mark the WHOLE length of the cut, not just the beginning. Use a triangle and a clamp as a saw guide. Cut a SMALL notch in the wood and ensure you're on your mark. Make sure before your cut you know which side of the cut your saw blade is supposed to be on or your length will be off by the width of the saw blade.

1. [Kreg pocket hole jig] (http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG/ref=pd_cp_hi_3) - this thing is amazing. It creates screw holes that are unobtrusive and easy to hide. You can go in at an angle instead of straight-on. Get the screws too.
   
   
2. Random orbit sander - people like smooth things and nicely sanded wood takes a finish much better. Sand every surface you intend on finishing and keep sanding it until it's as smooth as a baby's bottom. EDIT: Use breathing protection such as a dust mask.
   
   
3. Prestain - This is needed for some porous woods like pine.
   
   
4. Wood stain + polyeurethane - I use the kind that is combined. I don't know if others will think I'm a heathen because of that but I do. I don't use the brushes but instead use the white sponges. I can't find them though. Use at least two coats and LET IT DRY inbetween. Don't get anxious. Also, if you live with a woman don't forget to ask her what colors work best with the room. Take her with you to get the stain if necessary.
   
   
5. Steel wool between coats - This removes minor imperfections like bubbles and small hairs that get stuck in the coat of stain.
   
   That's all the suggestions I can come up with for now. It shouldn't be difficult. Scout out your wood supplier beforehand so you can see what you have to work with. You can probably find legs like those on the table in the picture at Lowes pretty easily. A nice top shouldn't be hard to find there either. You can either screw the legs directly into the top if you find a thick enough one or get some thinner boards for side pieces and form a frame to put the top on.

Ok, plenty of tips. Some are because I'm stupid and learned the hard way and others are specific to this project.

1. Get a Kreg Jig. Dont cheap out and get the $30 one. I started with that one and although it works just fine, when your doing a bunch of them, the master kit is soooooooo much easier and faster. Halfway through the project I got the Master Kit for about $90 and its well worth the money.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1418682780&sr=1-4&keywords=Kreg+Jig&pebp=1418682786524
   
   
2. This is probably common knowledge for wood workers / construction guys but apparently when you buy wood, its not the measurements you buy. A 2x4 is not actually 2" x 4" turns out its 1-1/2" x 3-1/2. When I went to H-Depot to find 1x10 board, I was miffed why it was in fact 1x9-1/4. I had to re-cut half my wood to fit.
   
   
3. Although I am glad I used the cheapest stuff I could find, I would probably go to a lumber yard to get better quality wood next time. Its kinda warped on the drawer face.
   
   
4. These plans don't really have any kind of drawer mechanism. The drawer just sits on wood. Next time I make something with a drawer, I will include a drawer slide. This also may be just because Im not good at it, but it doesn't slide easily or cleanly.
   
   
5. Clamps. Make sure you've got plenty. When I started the project I had 2- 12" clamps and ended up ordering 3 more 36" clamps. Pipe Clamps are better, but I ordered some cheap ones (link below) When I ordered them they were $9 each with free prime shipping. Wait till they go back on sale.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NQ17PI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
6. Back to the Drawer. I just remembered. I believe the plans called for a piece of plywood as the bottom of the drawer. When I cut it down and tested the fit, it was too tight to actually go in the drawer hole. I ended up cutting it down to fit the inside of the drawer and gluing it in place. It ended up "ok" but I wish I had done a better job on this.
   

Tell your pops I used this stuff on my tub and it came out nice.

• Gross
  
• After
  
  Couple tips: The directions say to use like 400 grit sandpaper, screw that, I tried that for almost 20 minutes and it wasn't doing a thing. I went down to like 150 grit. Real rough stuff. And it gouged the surface right up. I would periodically wipe the dust off with a damp cloth, then dry the surface and start sanding again. I think I sanded for just over an hour, taking a lot of short breaks to catch my breath since it was a pretty good workout. Once most of the gloss was gone and it was pretty well gouged up I applied the epoxy. People in the reviews complained about the vapors from the epoxy. So I setup two fans, a box fan blowing out the window and another fan blowing right at my head (the toilet's at the perfect height for this ;-)) And I felt completely fine breathing normally. It's been about a year and it's holding up great. Though we have babied it, just cleaning it with soap and water and a soft sponge, but it stays clean fairly easily and still looks great. Highly recommended easy DIY job for an old tub.

I have a Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station, and I highly recommend it for just about any kind of work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518809457&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=weller+wes51&dpPl=1&dpID=41WVs6AdNqL&ref=plSrch

The slightly more expensive digital version doesn’t solder any better, it just has buttons and a display instead of an adjustment knob.

If you’re working on tiny components, then you’ll just need to buy a few smaller tips, but there are plenty of sizes and shapes out there for Weller irons. I’ve always just bought cheaper knockoff tips, like the ones where you can get a variety pack of 10 for ~$30 on amazon. I don’t think tips are really worth spending a premium for the Weller brand, unlike the iron itself. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VFYPKN2/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518809384&sr=8-2-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=weller+replacement+tip+set+wes51

I’d also recommend a good vise or workstation to hold things steady, because there’s nothing worse than trying to use crappy little helping hands or just solder on a bench top. I use a Panavise like this, just as an idea, but there are probably some decent cheaper options out there: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00011QA0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518809613&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=panavise+350&dpPl=1&dpID=41smUr9QAlL&ref=plSrch

You can get ROLLS of remote controllable LED lights online. My husband and I use them for lighting our computer cases for instance. Just do a little research in the reviews to make sure people have a good experience with their safety and longevity for the price. https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Changing-Flexible-Controller-44-button/dp/B0040FJ27S

If you are looking for an easy solution around 100 to 200 give philips HUE a try? You can control with your phone and they have a couple of products that provide ambient lighting. https://www.amazon.com/Philips-259945-Bloom-Frustration-Free/dp/B00I12YFP0/ref=pd_sim_60_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=41j4KdlKf9L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=YGM42E2837A7BAV7AW3M and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0W3CI0/ref=s9_dcacsd_bhz_bw_c_x_6 and they have lots of other hue products too.

You could build up a crown moulding with a small shelf before the ceiling then line it with rope lighting to create a lit ceiling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaSHR6mfbRE

You could buy a couple of lamps from ikea, craigslist, marshalls, tj max, home goods, then put lower wattage lights (40w or 25w) in them on the 2700 (warmer) side of the spectrum. Dimmable lamps would be a plus just make sure the bulbs are dimmable too. They could be standard lamps, wall mounted plug in lamps, pendants you plug in then hang from the ceiling or even something more zen like a salt lamp: https://www.amazon.com/YYout-Himalayan-Crystal-Dimmable-Electric/dp/B01DP47SDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469690772&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=dimmable+salt+lamp&psc=1


You can put any pluggable light on a remote with a light switch remote. They can be pretty handy... Or the clapper lol. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1469690399&sr=1-7&keywords=plug+remote

You can get okay ones for $50-100. Are you looking for a soldering station or just a soldering pencil/gun?
I would recommend a wall unit, as opposed to a butane unit, because butane ones are mainly for people soldering in the field. They are nice and portable, but you have more wall outlets than butane canisters in your place, so it's easier

..





Weller and Hakko are great brands, their tips are a bit pricey too, but trust me, they last a lot longer than the cheap irons and their cheap tips.
You can't go wrong with any of these:
Weller
Hakko




Feel free to ask me other questions.

Totally worth the money:
A drill that will actually drill holes. I bought a POS drill (50 bucks) and it had no power to it. I finally dropped 250 on this and well worth every penny:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DG7SYYI
If you're doing any type of wood working and you want to join peices of wood securely and have it look nice look into the Kreg Pocket Hole Jig:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000J43A7W
I also purchased this guy to help clean up the massive extension cable that I have in my garage. Totally worth it as well:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00005A1K1
Also invest in a good pair of safety glasses and dust mask.

Way cool project!

I was thinking that if you still have money to spend of this project, some sort of monitor mounting system might help the overall aesthetic, then you wouldn't have to worry about the screw heads messing up the levelness of the monitors slightly either, and you could remove the bases.

Something like this x2 might work and look very nice. I found a pair of something similar called a space arm on ebay for under 80$ for a pair.

The make ones like this too, but i dont think those look quite as nifty, and wouldnt work as well for 27"ers.

PS: i love that you decided to tie some wood in with the legs and speakers, makes it look more inviting and less monolithic.

Do yourself a solid and buy a stud finder. The magnet kind is too cheap not to. This one at Amazon is $7 and is great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IKK0OI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479919614&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=magnetic+stud+finder

Also, it's smart to double check what your finder tells you before actually trying to screw anything. I usually use a finish nail to probe the spot and be sure that there is actually a stud where I think there is. You never know what craziness is going on behind drywall and if you were wrong, it's super easy to repair a finish nail hole.

Good luck!

I've had success using a scoring tool specifically for bottles like this:

GreenPowerScience demonstrates a pretty effective technique of scoring, then alternating boiling water and cold water around the score mark until it breaks. I've found that if you use rubber gaskets or hair ties around bottle on either side of the score mark, it keeps the temperature changes localized to where you want it to break. With the hair ties I get a perfect clean break every time. Before I tried that there would often be chips and erratic cracks

I purchased the Makita 18V Lithium Ion set linked earlier (http://amzn.com/B000V2DSE2). I love them, they work great and the batteries charge fast. One thing I wish I did was get the LXT version, which has a larger battery. I don't want this for longer run time, although that would also be nice, but it would run the rest of the cordless tools that Makita sells. Things like a circular saw, sawzall, shoot even a friggin leaf blower can all run on the same batteries. So I find my self now wishing I had originally bought the bigger battery set.

This one specifically: Makita LXT 18V

Reason being, it has the compact impact driver that everyone loves, and the hammer drill (which can switch between hammer function or normal drill function).

TL;DR: I wish I bought Makita LXT 18V over the Maktita 18V

Ok, so there is a LOT of bad advice in here. I will tell you what I would do as someone who has installed over 80 tvs in the past two years on a variety of building types.

1. There are studs. Drywall needs something to hold it up. What you're probably looking at is steel studs. They're probably at either 16, 18, 20, or 24" intervals. The only exception to this would be if this is an exterior wall or solid brick on the other side; in that case there might be furring strips, but that's unlikely, so I won't address it.
   
2. Use a magnetic stud finder to find the studs. This will work for both metal and steel studs.
   
3. Use this type of mount (it accommodates wide studs): https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Articulating-Swivel-600x400mm-PERLESMITH/dp/B078GK6JD3/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=tv+mount+wide+studs&qid=1574651505&sr=8-3
   
4. Metal studs are thin u shapes. You're drilling into the thin edges, which are approximately 1.5" wide. Use a very small drill bit (1/16), and drill small holes to either side of where you think the center of the stud is. As soon as you're able to push the drill bit in and hit hollow, you know you have edge of the stud. Do that for both sides, then you'll know where the center is.
   
5. Drill a pilot hole in the drywall where you want to put your toggle bolt.
   
6. Use a step bit to drill a hole in the metal stud, it needs to be 1/2" wide: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Drive-Steps-Titanium-Drill/dp/B07CXBGZQ8/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?keywords=step+bit&qid=1574651671&sr=8-11-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRUdPTlhPMlBXM0QmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2Nzk0MTIzVFA3M05YVkg4TTdMJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwNzM0MDMzOFEzMlo5WEZHMTBVJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
   
7. Use a snap toggle, which will open up inside the metal stud and then you can bolt to that. You can safely mount MOST tvs unless it's like 70" + or suuuuper heavy and old (like 55 lbs +). These are what you want to use: https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Zinc-Plated-Channel-Fastener/dp/B0051IBBUE/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=snap+toggle&qid=1574651856&sr=8-8
   
8. You'll need 4 snap toggles through the studs, one in each corner. Then put 2 more in just the drywall in the middle of the mount frame on the wall.
   
9. If you must use that mount originally linked, you can cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to span both studs, use snap toggles to attach that to the studs and then attach that mount to the plywood with the 3 lag bolts they provided.
   
10. Do NOT use any anchors other than toggle bolts. Remember that drywall anchors are rated for FAILURE STRENGTH. Meaning an anchor rated for 60 lbs has a safe working load of 1/4 of that, 15 lbs. Snap toggle are rated for 250 lbs in drywall only. Safe working load is like 60ish lbs. No other drywall anchors are remotely close to toggle bolts in drywall, and are categorically unsafe being used on an articulating wall mount (lever effect results on effective weight of tv being doubled at full extension).

In general what you want to do sounds okay. There are definitely approved methods for "old work" stuff like this.

(insert usual get a permit, do it legally, etc etc)

I'd recommend you buy something like this and make sure you read through it carefully and check with your city building department, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-Complete-Wiring-Updated/dp/159186612X

Oh, they are :)

When I saw this I thought about a project I had completed using edge lighting with LED strips (literally LEDS in a strip, an example: http://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Bulbs-T93007-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B005EHHLD8), since it looks like the LEDs in the housing are LED strips. So I was going to make my suggestion.

I definitely think that EL Tape would look way nicer for less work, but I had a lot of fun with an edge-lit piece I made last summer, so I thought I should at least recommend it in case OP thought it was cool too.

I think this is my best option. This has pretty good reviews on Amazon, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040FJ27S/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1.

Do you know where I might find just the remote? Would something like this work with the receiver that's already attached? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HH2HCZA?cache=5b5096e43f3b1bc2289126dc21d6ee71&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412179894&sr=8-25#ref=mp_s_a_1_25

Yeah I patched the big voids with mortar. You can see a slight difference in color but it's not bad at all. My sink is ground/polished down to the point that there is a lot of exposed aggregate (and the surface had a shine before the epoxy, I guess from the polished silicon in the sand?), so there's a lot going on anyway.

If you are leaving any voids (which is fine, just make sure they can drain so that water doesn't sit in them), make sure to thoroughly vacuum them so there's no cement dust that could come loose.

I (think I) used this one: http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

Here's a pic of the sink; it looks better in person :) http://imgur.com/a/k1lwZ#9

There are a couple interesting options when it comes to whiteboards.

There's adhesive backed rolls available. The biggest problem is getting a quality surface to put it on. The hardboard surface discussed below would be a great mounting surface.^1

If you're nostalgic for chalk boards they're available as peel and stick too. ^2 Scraping your fingernails across them doesn't sound like death cry on slate boards. Again, finding a good surface to put it on can be an issue.

4'x8' (32 square feet!!) hardboard sheets are cheap ($13) but not professional quality.^3 It's great for giving the kids a wall to write on!!

1. http://www.amazon.com/Wall-Pops-WPE0446-24-Inch-36-Inch/dp/B009M3EIAY
   
   
2. http://www.amazon.com/Con-Tact-Self-Adhesive-Chalkboard-18-Inch-6-Feet/dp/B000KKMO90
   
   
3. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Thrifty-White-32-sq-ft-Hardboard-Panel-Board-709106/202090193

I bought a set of these LED lights from amazon a couple of months ago, they are VERY bright, they would be absolutely perfect for projects of this nature. The strip can even be cut and reconnected with wires if desired. This controller has a few different fade modes, and ability to make all the colors stay constant. With different controller types you can even connect to music, which would be nice,

LED strips are wonderful for that. Amazon sells them.
I used LED strips attached to an outdoor light-sensistive timer put on top of the cabinets, so I have light-sensitive LED underlighting.
Quick shot of my lighting

[strip] (http://www.amazon.com/Hitlights-Flexible-Ribbon-Adapter-included/dp/B005GL5R56/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1370794301&sr=8-3&keywords=led+strip)
power source
I put mine near the front of the cabinet, so they wouldn't ever be visable. If you want a wider range of light, put them closer to the back, and they'll cover the whole cabinet.
Good luck!

It really depends on what you want to start building? Any ideas of what your first 5 projects are? For woodworking, I'd get the following.

1. A saw of some time type. Either...
   a) Circular saw. It will make fast work of cutting sheet goods, it's possible to rip boards with decent accuracy, and you can cross cut as well. Super versatile because you can make several jigs and use different blades for hardwoods, plywoods, and even tile. For light, occasional work, you won't notice a difference between a $50 Skil model and a $120 DeWALT model. Just don't drop it.
   b) Jig saw. You can also cut plywood and hardwoods with a jig saw, but the results will not be as good. The benefit of a jig saw is that you can make circular (or any shape really) cuts. You can make a low more artsy stuff with a jig saw.
   
   
2. A drill/driver
   http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PCCK602L2-Lithium-Tool-Combo/dp/B00CM7Z2KW/
   I'd suggest a a drill and impact driver set. You can get away with just a drill and use it to drive screws as well. However, with the combo sets, I was able to pick up an impact driver and a flashlight with a carrying case that uses the same batteries for about $20 more than just a drill and 2 batteries alone. The impact driver will allow you to drive 3-1/2" screws into studs like butter.
   
   
3. Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
   http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W
   This bad boy has made furniture makers out of many that wouldn't be able to in the past. You'll need a good clamp to use with it. Just search YouTube for videos about building stuff. Ana White uses pocket holes on every thing and she makes decent stuff.
   
   
4. Clamps
   "A woodworker never has enough clamps." Everyone knows this.
   http://www.amazon.com/Jorgensen-3724-HD-24-Inch-Heavy-Duty-Steel/dp/B00005R1HY
   http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Quick-Grip-Clamp-Set/dp/B00A9KMARW/
   I have 6 of the 24" clamps, 8 of the Irwin Quick Grip clamps, and a handful of spring clamps. I've been able to build just about anything with that many clamps... but I've wanted more. If you use the pocket hole system, you'll want to clamp pieces together before you drive the screws.
   
   
5. A bench
   I went to a Habitat for Humanity ReStore and picked up an old particle board desk that is about 300 lbs for $20. That's what I use. Otherwise, you can build one from 2x4s with the tools above and build your skills.
   
   
6. Various tools
   Squares, Drill bits, Driver bits....
   I usually pick up something new for every project I start.
   
   
   That's about $500 worth of tools and is the barest of bare bones I'd suggest someone to start with if they want to build bookshelves etc. The most important thing you can have is knowledge and YouTube/Reddit is the best place to get it if you don't have a woodworker to physically teach you.

If you enjoyed the process of making this and see real value in the higher quality results compared to buying flatpack particleboard furniture...

For you next one you night consider buying specialty plywood that comes with a nice hardwood veneer on one side (oak, maple, walnut, cherry, etc). You could also buy a cheap pockethole jig and build a hardwood face frame for the front (for fun). But as long as it's not getting really beat on, the veneer edge banding lasts pretty well.

I bought my parents the 12v Hitachi Impact and Drill set when it was on sale, and I have to say for just having and doing a few projects with, they are amazing. I built a shed with them: http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-KC10DFL-12-Volt-3-Tool-Carrying/dp/B001N2NTDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409179683&sr=8-1&keywords=Hitachi+12v

Everything else can be found used for way cheaper. Craigslist, Pawn Shops, even, and I suggest looking, Antique Shops (Most woodworking tools haven't changed in the last century)

Get 3 Hammers. A Framing, a Finnish, and a soft mallet, rubber or plastic.

A combo square

A framing square

Good tape measure

Get a decent handsaw, and a good "japan" saw (http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1409179974&sr=8-9&keywords=hand+saw)


For Furniture, get a tablesaw. You won't regret it. Get one from Craigslist, an older Delta, iron Craftsman or Grizzly.

Get a set of Chisels. Buck Brothers yellow at Home Depot will run you about 30$ for 3 and they are not bad at all.



And finally, get a Porter Cable D Handle router with an assortment of cheap bits.

With that you can do just about anything you could ever want.

Something like this will work: Rust-Oleum kit That's a link to Amazon just because it's easy to find on there. You can probably find a similar product almost anywhere that sells home improvement stuff. As with most any paint type thing, preparation is key. Get the tub as clean as possible and carefully follow the directions.

I guess you could call it DIY, but it was pretty easy. I bought the components from Amazon:

• 5 meter strip of "warm" led lights
  
• 120 to 12V 30 Watt power supply/transformer
  
• PWM Dimmer
  
  The transformer plugs into the wall and then into the dimmer (I extended the wires using 12v wire I had on hand and butt contectors) then 2 wires out of the dimmer into the strip of lights. The light strip comes with a standard looking DC connector, which I removed and just hard wired it. I also used the entire strip, but it can be cut every two inches at certain points. If you choose to cut the strip, you will need to solder the wires onto the strip. Since I used the entire strip I just used the included wire (after removing the DC connector thing)

I used one of these for years before I bought an adjustable heat iron:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xmx/R-100391613/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

It works pretty well, just have to be careful not to get things too hot.

This is the one I bought and see around the EE dept all the time:
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU

Either way, make sure to watch some videos on soldering, the proper technique is very important to get good joints and not overheat components.

I was shopping around for a kit. Is this the one you own?

I have an amazon gift certificate, so I was thinking of picking up one of these Weller units. Any opinions? It seems like overkill, so I wondered how good you find the temp control on yours and whether the features on the other model would be worth it in the long run for occasional projects.

Look at this stuff, it's cheaper on Amazon but they have it at Home Depot for a little more. Works nicely when done fully and should work just as nicely as a patch to keep the peeling down. Just make sure to take out the drain cover first since the flipper might not have done it correctly.

I recently bought a magnetic stud finder that runs purely on a pair of magnets rather than battery. I run it in an 'S' shape across my wall and it sticks to certain areas.

Now here's the problem: What do I even do with that information? I want to hang some heavier things up (say, a mirror or something) and as far as I know you're supposed to hammer into the stud but like... if the stud finder is attaching to the metal in the frame then won't me hammering a nail into it endanger the frame? Wouldn't I be clanking right into the metal already in there? What if the thing I'm hanging needs to be attached to more than one stud and they're not close enough?

Should I mark an inch below / above / next to the spot that the stud finder attached to? How am I supposed to know that that's still part of the frame?

Ftr, this is the stud finder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/

I'm sure this is all supposed to be very obvious... google seems to think so since I can't find any real resources aside from 'stud finders help you find studs'.

Thank you!

It's kind of cheesy, but I have been really happy with books like this and this and this and this.

You don't need studs. I installed mine in drywall using these they are amazing and super easy to use. All I need is a little spackle to patch up the holes when I leave.

I got them on Amazon. They are really heavy duty. Cord is thick like extension cable. I love the Edison bulbs too! Brightech Ambience Pro Commercial Grade Outdoor Light Strand with Hanging Sockets - 48 Ft Market Cafe Edison Vintage Bistro Weatherproof Strand for Patio Garden Porch Backyard Party Deck Yard – Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0VTVTA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I probably would have gone with something like this for the lights.

Or if you really wanted to get fancy, you could go with something like this that comes with a remote and is RGB so you can have any color you want. The RGB ones generally come with an adapter for the power and an IR controller so you can change the color like this. Honestly, I would be really leery about using what I assume are just Christmas lights.

Honestly man El is a great product but I don't know. Personally I would go with a color changing LED tape product. See the thing about El from my experience was that it was hard to keep in place, not too bright , and the noise the power inverter makes was just awful. It's great for tiny project (I made a battery powered el wire shirt for a rave) but something like that you'd probably want to explore a bit. And sorry I can't help with the soldering it's something I have never done.

And this is what I had in mind as a better idea.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040FJ27S?pc_redir=1405572280&robot_redir=1

Should it not dry to your liking, use the glue again and do NOT dilute it with water. Then use something like this over the dried glue, because without it the shade will be a dust magnet. The spray will make it easier to clean.

GC here who specializes in decks/rails.

First, get yourself this Pocket Hole Jig (this things is worth every freaking penny), and get some blue kreg 2-1/2" pocket screws from home depot/lowes.

Then add one more layer to your current picture. So you should have 2x4 on bottom, then 1x2, then pickets, 1x2, 2x4 on top, then optional 2x6 for something a little nicer. Doing it this way allows you to place the bottom 2x4 first, then assemble the pickets/1x2s as one unit that you can place on top of 2x4, with final 2x4 on top. Use the pocket hole jig on the ends of the 2xs to attach to posts. this will create an amazingly strong railing. attach pickets to 1x2s using 3 or more 15/16 guage trim nails.

Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3

If you zoom in on pic 2 enough on the top, you can see the pocket holes. I filled these in with plastic plugs made by kreg, if its being painted, you could also use their pine ones which make an almost invisible seam.

Also, I HIGHLY recommend using KDAT (Kiln Dried After Treatment) wood. if you don't, the wood will expand/contract after installation causing all of your joints to come undone. its also paint ready as soon as youre done. no need to wait until it dries. Find a specialty retailer for good woods, I'm particular to Madison Woods, pricey, but worth it.

OMGOMGOMGOMGOMG. Best $10 I ever spent. I love this thing:

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

For future builds: http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG

Pocket holes are a great way of fastening boards together like this. This guy does some nice pieces using a pocket hole jig:

http://www.diypete.com/how-to-build-a-farmhouse-style-coffee-table/

I recommend modifying it to use a standard household bulb. You are essentially building a sconce. I would look into something like these plus a 12V PSU like this. You will also need a socket like this.

Strips is the way to go. You can either buy a premade kit, like the one IKEA sells. It's pretty solid for the price.

I would get this one though. RGB, and has a remote so you can change the colors at whim.

You can buy these to help separate them out.

Definitely an exhaust fan is installed (but no clue if working or not). Looks like it has a plug, so I would get an extension cord and plug it into an outlet, see if it works (most likely it will). If it does, then get one of those light bulb adapters that have an electrical outlet, plug the fan into it and add a light bulb.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70

Edit: please update us with the results.

I bought this onefrom Amazon, I am 2 for 6 in making glasses out of them but still trying, plus I like emptying the bottles!!

First successful attempt:
http://imgur.com/mlow7

Kreg Pocket Jig is a little guide that lets you drill and secure a board to another board using pocket screws. This means that if you have two sides of an arcade cabinet, in your awesome arcade shape, you'll be able to affix boards to the inside face of the sides easily. So basically you'll be able to easily and sturdily connect your two sides together, making your frame.

Text will not do the job here, you should look up Kreg Jig on youtube and watch it in action, it will be worth a thousand words.

My assumption is you're going to make shaped sides from plywood (with a jigsaw or similar), then connect them with trusses, using pocket screws, then cover the trusses with plywood. That will give you your cabinet, though the screen and electronics mounting won't be trivial, and I (unfortunately!) can't help you with the electronics.

Not much to it, but pretty easy to get yourself killed or burn your house down. I recommend you read a wiring basics book. In a nutshell, you need to run 14/2 with ground to a new 15A breaker.

Here's a good book. You'd only need to read a chapter or two: Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Wiring, Updated 6th Edition: Current with 2014-2017 Electrical Codes (Black & Decker Complete Guide) https://www.amazon.com/dp/159186612X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kjnnzbYY9GS27

Pour some epoxy over the top. It looks great and will totally protect the surface.

http://www.amazon.com/Pour-On-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

I bought this box for $17 and I'm pretty happy with it. I was able to make a decent wooden box out of semi-warped walnut- first try with mitred joints. I have a handsaw similar to the one you have as well as a japanese-style shark saw which I used for the walnut pieces as the smaller teeth provide a better edge. The only issue with the shark saw is that it's not very rigid so I had to kind of guide it with my knuckles so that it would stay in the mitre guides.

The advantage of that mitre box is that those plastic pegs work really well for quickly clamping and unclamping your piece, you just have to take care that you don't move the piece when you are rotating the peg to tighten it (easy to do) and make sure it's really tight. The vibration and movement of the saw will make it come loose unless it's really tight.

As far as the circular saw, you are very limited in what kind of mitering you can do just by changing the angle of the blade. It's hard to explain, but if you envision different kinds of cuts you might want to do and how you would do it just by angling the circular saw blade, you can start to see how limited it is.

tl;dr: for $17 I would say it's a good investment even if you only use it a few times a year.

Edit: sorry, I missed the part where you mentioned the workbench. I agree with jdepcad, you don't need it for that project.

Ok, I did this before, let me tell you what we learned.

CAUTIONARY STORY:

• In our case, the mirror was about 8' wide and 4' tall.
  
  
• Surprise! The mirror was NOT attached to the wall with ANYTHING other than the visible fasteners.
  
  
• When we removed the fasteners, we foolishly thought it was going to stay attached to the wall. It did NOT. In fact, after about 20 seconds, it suddenly started to fall forward off of the wall. My mother happened to be standing right there, facing away, and did not see this happening. I was also standing right there and managed to stop the mirror right before it hit her head, and it had fallen almost 75 degrees. I thought it broke my wrists because it hit me so hard. I almost fell down from the force.
  
  
• The mirror did not break (incredibly, considering how much stress I must have put on the middle). I also discovered it weighed a lot more than I thought. I could not hold the weight of the mirror by myself (and I'm not a little guy - 6' 4" and 200 lbs) and was starting to lose it. My father stepped in and helped hold it.
  
  
• It was so heavy and large we could not lift it back up, and could not lower it down with just the two of us. My mother literally ran to the next door neighbors and got two guys to help us.
  
  
• We finally managed to lower it safely. But ... holy shit. That could have killed someone.
  
  MY SUGGESTIONS
  
  Hire someone! Seriously! Pay them $100 or so and be done with it. It's not even worth the time and effort you will go through.
  
  Okay, you want to DIY? Here's what I would do:
  
  
• Buy two pieces of 1/2" plywood, cut 5' x 4' (so they fit in the middle) and use them to help reinforce and safely handle the mirror. Tape or glue them to the mirror. This will minimize the chance of breaking.
  
  
• This saw may allow you to remove it - it's designed to remove countertops
  
  
• Do not let it break. That will be a disaster. It's either going to be a 10 minute job or an 8 hour cleanup. Worse, it may break and slice someone and put you in the hospital. Now you have a hazmat cleanup too!
  
  
• Expect the mirror to suddenly fall off the wall when you are working on it!
  
  
• Expect it to weigh a LOT more than you thought - easily 200 pounds in my opinion.
  
  
• A mirror that large? You will be glad you have 6-8 people helping.
  
  
• Buy 4 of these - $6 each. They are cheap and tremendously helpful.
  
  
• You should have some sort of ladders setup on each side that will safely allow someone to walk the mirror down on each side.
  
  
• Put down a thick, non-slippery, non-TRIP covering/tarp just in case, and get rid of anything nearby.
  
  Good luck.

I have a makita drill and impact set and it's been flawless for 5 years. http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_1
Two years ago I built a privacy fence and wanted another impact driver with out the expense. I purchased the Ryobi bundle for $99.
I have had no issues with either, but as a home owner, Ryobi has so many other great affordable tools that the batteries work with.
https://www.ryobitools.com/power-tools/products/details/540

What made you get that jig compared to the Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System? I know the Pocket Hole System costs about $50 more but it seems like it would be easier to use.

This method gives you some pretty jagged edges and is way less than 80% effective. Glass cutter mounted to a board seems to work best from what I've worked with. This and this also work pretty well but cost more than a $3 glass cutter mounted to some scrap wood.

Rather than the Target brand bulbs, we ordered these commercial grade lights. Hopefully they can stand up to some stronger weather. Thanks for the input.

I don't like the Stanley because you can't buy replacement blades. The only way to get them is directly from Stanley, last time I checked the replacement blade from them was more than the entire saw. The Stanley is great, I just wish you could by a replacement blade instead of a new saw. If you're buying new and don't already have any sort of flush cut saw I'd probably buy this one Shark makes fantastic fine saws

I know I'm not really answering your question here... but we just installed 5 more foot of cabinet space and my wife wanted some under cabinet lighting. I looked on Amazon and most of the stuff was pretty expensive.

I opted instead to do LED strip lighting and ordered 32' of it + transformer + dimmer for the same price as 24" of any of the other solutions. The pluses are:

• LED strips can be cut into 2" sections so you can cut it to length (soldering is required but very minor and simple)
  
• The strips have sticky back so you can stick it right under the counter. I used some glue to help some parts stay but not too necessary.
  
• Very low voltage and power consumption.
  
• Wires are easy to hide
  
  Pics are here: http://imgur.com/a/R6ynJ
  
  Here's what I got:
  
  Transformer/Power Supply
  
  Warm White LED Strips (16ft)
  
  Dimmer w/Wireless Remote
  
  I used 2x 16ft strips and it worked just fine. Came up to a total of $63.25
  

You can figure out 'Reddit' but you need help searching Amazon?

I didn't even go to Amazon, I typed whiteboard sticker in google and this was the first hit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B009M3EIAY/ref=olp_twister_child?ie=UTF8&mv_size_name=6

I've got one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

Love it. Definitely look for something with adjustable temps and replaceable tips.

Buy this for 20.00. Don't waste your time with the string and all that other jazz.

http://www.amazon.com/Generation-Green-g2-Bottle-Cutter/dp/B004ZRV3AU

It works great on basically anything bottle sized/shaped.

You will have far less headaches, and you don't need a torch, the flame from a tea candle is more than adequate.

Get the quart can of the tub and tile refinisher from Rustoleum. Plenty there to do the required three coats on a bathtub. It's a two-part epoxy paint which cures hard and looks like porcelain, kind of. I've used it, and it's really, really good. Check the reviews on Amazon, too. If you decide to go that route, PM me for a bunch of tips. It's easy to mess it up. It does take the tub out of commission for a couple days while it cures, so factor that in.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7860519-Refinishing-2-Part-White/dp/B000PTSBKW

I like these, a nice cheap solution .

Here's one that's just a couple of powerful magnets stuck in a piece of plastic. Works great!

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=magnetic+stud+finder&qid=1568782809&sr=8-4

You could do a repair, then after that put a coating of this refinishing stuff on it:](http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-7860519-Refinishing-2-Part-White/dp/B000PTSBKW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395774341&sr=8-3&keywords=bath+tub+paint)

I've used this stuff and it looks great when you're done, although granted now you're painting over a brand new tub. OP, you might be able to use this stuff to refinish only the top edge of the tub. A white coat of this stuff would likely blend in with no difference between the top edge and the rest of the tub.

I would try sanding it down, if there are gouges you can get some Durham's to fill them, it is cheap and hard to screw up. Once that cures sand it all again and paint it. If the grain is raised from the paint sand it again and paint/seal. It is possible to paint a faux wood grain to match the existing but it would be difficult for me to describe the technique. There are probably some youtube videos about it though. For that one I'd start with a base of the lighter brown and then grain with the darker brown, latex paint is easiest for the user...

You might also consider sanding it and spray painting the whole thing a solid color then gluing/decoupaging a coordinating fabric or paper print to the top in a pattern you like.

My current set the compact set from Makita: http://www.amazon.com/Makita-LCT200W-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B000V2DSE2/ref=sr_1_6?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1310495108&sr=1-6

They can be had cheaper during black-friday sales and the like.

The biggest win vs. a NiCad is first weight. LiIon is far, far lighter for the same power load.

Second, LiIon have a more usable power. NiCad degrades rather linearly. Ie, the more you use it, the less power it puts out. LiIon will hold on and produce roughly the same output until you've used about 90% of the charge.

Third, LiIon can (and SHOULD) be charged before you use them all the way to zero. They don't suffer the "charge memory" thing that NiCad does.

Specific benefit to that Makita set: Charge time from almost 0 to 100% full is 15 minutes. 15 minutes.

The black and decker books are a pretty good starting point:
http://www.amazon.com/Decker-Complete-Wiring-Updated-Edition/dp/159186612X/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1412963985&sr=8-2&keywords=electrical+how+to

Sounds like you want to use the kind of finish that is used on bar tops and bar tables. There are many different brands, such as this one:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Parks-1-qt-Gloss-Super-Glaze-Finish-and-Preservative-241352/202056337

Or this:

http://www.amazon.com/Pour-On-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

So I had several closets that were very dark and hard to see in. None had outlets and I didn't feel like getting anything wired in. So I made these lights using AA batteries. You can find everything on Amazon. Perfect for apartments too! One closet comes in at around $30, less if you don't get nice rechargeable batteries like I did.

Switch
Lights
Case

This is what I use and it would definitely be strong enough to get through 2" of drywall.

You could use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407430422&sr=8-2&keywords=light+socket+plug+adapter

That way you can run an extension cord into your shed for light without sacrificing the porch light. It would obviously only work if the porch light is switched on, but it's better than not having a porch light at all. I wouldn't run more than a few lamps off that power source though.
Edit: how many more times do you think I could say porch light?

All of this. Coating the tip with a glob of solder when you're done with it is a good idea -- flick the solder off when you next use it and all of the oxidation goes with it.

I've got one of these and it's well worth it.

I know you said you wanted to build, but this is only 40 bucks and is fantastic. I have a 24" and a 19" attached to this, it's then clamped to an Ikea build your own desk, can't recall model though.

http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Monitor-Stand-clamp-monitors/dp/B002R9HQLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341326765&sr=8-1&keywords=dual+lcd+monitor+stand

> Light bulb socket adapter: One outlet version -- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PCVTFC[1] , two outlet version -- http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70[2] . Best not to try to make one of these yourself, can be dangerous if something gets wired backwards.


I get these here in the local electrical market. But the light bulb holders are a little higher, I was thinking if I could get a customized socket somewhere near my bed. Where I can plug in my charger.

> Fan speed regulator: Depends on the fan, ceiling fans are controlled different than box/stand fans. Usually it's a burnt resistor or such. Probably best to just replace the regulator assembly, most of the time they're not repairable anyway.


I thought of posting an image of how it looks like from the outside.
Here is an image of it. I think I can even open it, take a pic and let you know, I thought I would first post the pic and ask for feedback. Is the regulator speed depended on the type of ceiling fan? The fan that I am using 1200 MM Sweep, 380 RPM, 80 Watts power consumption.

> Broken cupboard door:

Here is how it looks like. This is the broken door side. And this is how it looks on the cupboard. This image is from another cupboard where both the hinges are intact. So I think it is not really broken but the screws and nut seems to be come off? I went to a hardware store and showed them this pics, they bluntly said that only screws and nuts are not available, you need to purchase the complete set. I don't even know if I am using the technical terms like screws, nuts, hinges right. Forgive me if they are called something else.


> Toilet lid


The one that I have seems to be a little different. Here is what it looks like. The lid wont just fit easily on those plastic connectors given on the top of the hole.

Above all I really want to say a big thank you for taking out time and replying to me. It really helps and can go a long way if I get started with DIY stuffs.

*Sorry if any of the links turned dead. Imgur is disabled in my office, and I used my mobile's 2G network to upload to imgur and manually added the links here on the browser.

Yup, about half your pictures are cove lighting, and the other half lighting pillars and walls is up lighting. If that's the effect you're going for, the product I linked should do quite nicely. If you have the money, I would wholy suggest getting RGB LEDs and an appropriate controller, just in case someday you want to change it up. This kit comes with everything you need, and has some picture examples which I think match what you are looking for. You can certainly find cheaper kits on eBay, just keep in mind that for RGB you will need the LEDs, a controller and a power supply.

Here is the Amazon equivalent. I have had two sets for about three years, still working great.

I found it on amazon for about 50 dollars. So far I like it quite a bit, the height you have to set, but the arms move freely and the monitors tilt, rotate and swivel.

I got this thing. Works like a champ.

I hope you know how hard it was to resist adding a LMGTFY link... lol

Linky!

Any thoughts if this will work? The guy at Lowes told me it was my best option

Light bulb socket adapter: One outlet version -- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PCVTFC, two outlet version -- http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70. Best not to try to make one of these yourself, can be dangerous if something gets wired backwards.

Fan speed regulator: Depends on the fan, ceiling fans are controlled different than box/stand fans. Usually it's a burnt resistor or such. Probably best to just replace the regulator assembly, most of the time they're not repairable anyway.

Broken cupboard door: Get a box of wooden matches; break the heads off 3-4 of them, however many will fit into the screw hole. Dip them into wood glue, then shove them into the hole as far as they will go. Once the glue dries, cut them off flush with the wood surface, then screw the hinge back into the newly filled-in wood. If you lost the screws, take one out of another hinge and your local hardware store should have something that matches up. Can also try getting a screw a couple sizes up instead of the matchstick trick. Screws are numbered for "thickness" and then measured for length. Quick chart of the American system is here -- http://s.hswstatic.com/gif/screws-1.jpg.

Toilet lid - usually these just sit on top of the tank? If you're talking about the seat, there are usually 2 screws under the hinge tabs, look for a cover you can flip up. Might have to use pliers underneath to hold the nut while tightening the screw above.

For the vast majority of things, if you don't want to post on /r/diy (that's what it's here for!) just search Google for "cabinet door hinge fell off", or "toilet seat loose," etc, there's plenty of information out there (even step by step YouTube videos!)

Source: Way too much of my childhood spent watching This Old House and reading this thing.

I own a few of these personally. Great tool!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IKK0OI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1405916887&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

I have this mount. I have had no issues with it. I am not sure if it will work for your monitor but if you want new ones you can check here one of my friends has this and has nothing but goos things to say about it.

Take a look at this stuff, worked great on making our tub look new. You can probably just use it on those specific spots.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PTSBKW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah, especially to protect the (I'm assuming) non-oil-based, less-durable coats of paint underneath. http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=arts-crafts&qid=1301373510&sr=1-2

I would recommend using a magnetic stud finder. They allow you to find where the drywall screws are. Once you find a screw with it, move it vertically to find at least 2 other screws to verify it's just not a stray screw. This is the one I use regularly.

Then you can mount directly into the stud.

You could also use toggler snaptoggle anchors if the studs don't line up quite where you want the mounts to be. I use these very often for monitor mounting. The drywall is plenty strong enough. These do require a 1/2" hole to be drilled, however. So keep that in mind if you will be having to patch them later.

I painted porcelain wall tile in our bathroom that was avocado green about 2 years ago and it's held up brilliantly.

I used this stuff

I have been using this one for years, with great success. It stows inside my drill case like a James Bond gadget (From Russia With Love). I have never used an electronic stud finder. The only problem I have had with this one is when I find metal studs, but I have since learned how to deal with them.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

I think Makita is an excellent brand. But the batteries are very small and low-power on that kit. If I where you, I'd spend a little more and get this instead: http://amzn.com/B000V2DSE2 . I have an older version of that set and it has worked well for many years. Although even those batteries are small-ish for big projects (e.g. insufficient drilling holes and driving screws to deck small porch in one charge).

Go crazy with PWM controlled RGB LED strips such as this.

I use those to light my home office. I made a large wooden square out of some pieces of 1x4, attached/ran the LED strip around the top of it a few times, and hung it from the ceiling so it reflected off the white ceiling. It makes a very awesome indirect lighting system.

I've found this 120v AC to 12v DC converter on amazon, would something like this allow me to use the pin I've already installed into the machine?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The casual user can get by just fine with the $40 Kreg pocket hole jig. I do a decent amount of woodworking and it works well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000J43A7W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458056617&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=kreg+jig&dpPl=1&dpID=41auGxMjmXL&ref=plSrch

The weird part is that it definitely sticks (the magnetic stud finder) to the corners. Both concave corners (ie-the regular corners of a 4 sided room) and the convex corners (ie- like a hallway corner)....don't know if convex and concave are the proper terms.

So, it can find SOME nails through whatever material is on there. Just not ANYWHERE on the wall itself.

No, it's a jig for creating pocket holes. I own it, and it works really great. Lets you put in hidden screws that pull pieces together just about anywhere.

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1396413078&sr=8-3&keywords=kreg+jig

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V2DSE2/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00

Lightweight, compact, and powerful. Battery lasts for a long time and recharges fast. Don't waste any money on cheaper cordless drills.

I would put a layer of epoxy coating on top of the whole thing. Something like this should be available at a local big box store.

http://www.amazon.com/Pour-On-Varnish-Provides-Gorgeous-Appearance/dp/B000PEGLBS

Credit to user/rosulek and user/ericslager for their DIY projects that eventually helped me develop mine. Below are links to their DIY projects.

user/rosulek:
Here

user/ericslager:
Here

Also, most all of the materials I used I got from the Home Depot.

Lastly, the link to the LEDs from Amazon:

Here

Google-fu to the rescue: https://www.amazon.com/Brightech-Ambience-Outdoor-Weatherproof-Commercial/dp/B00K0VTVTA

This is the best out there. Anything else will not be as reliable. And no batteries!

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343482450&sr=8-1&keywords=stud+finder

I know you took a lot of time soldering those, but you might look into something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Waterproof-Flexible-Adhesive-Lighting/dp/B005EHHLD8/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1383242785&sr=8-3&keywords=led+tape

I like the idea but not the cost. I applaud the execution and I am totally a fan of DIY, however I just ordered this

http://www.amazon.com/Dual-Monitor-Stand-clamp-monitors/dp/B002R9HQLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1293564463&sr=8-1

Thanks! Here's the LED strip I used http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040FJ27S/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1367438860&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

We use THESE when installing heavier drapery rods that can't be attached to a stud. Very sturdy, easy to work with, and removable in the future.

http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Changing-Flexible-Controller-44-button/dp/B0040FJ27S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422155193&sr=8-2&keywords=led+tape

The LED tape was nice, cheap, and effective. It's kinda bright, but I don't think it's bright enough to light an entire room.

Ohhhhh.... to you have a ceiling or wall light fixture out there? If so you might be able to use something like this and pull power off the light circuit.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473968821&sr=8-5&keywords=light+bulb+socket

i wouldn't worry about drywall coming off the studs.. not even sure how this would happen.

game plan is sound. go for it. the only possible issue (and it's minor) is you could screw into an existing drywall screw, but the odds of this are almost 0. worst case is you screw 1/2" away.

but if you want to be absolutely sure, amazon sells these "stud-finders" that are just rare-earth magnets with a small level bubble. it finds studs by locating the drywall screws... nice little tool.

It looks like it.

I have one of these, it has been a life saver in a house with plaster and lath.

One like this for $18 http://www.amazon.com/Generation-Green-g2-Bottle-Cutter/dp/B004ZRV3AU#

That isn't true at all. I can get away with a simple magnet and just use it to find a sheetrock screw.

Look at this stud finder on amazon -
CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mPogzb17D3WA9

4.5 out of 5 stars with over 7,000 reviews and only costs $9.99. Thing doesn't even require batteries.

I would tell people the exact opposite of what you said. Don't waste $30-40 on a stud finder when a $9 one will work just as well.

I spent $40 on a pocket hole jig specifically for this project. It was more expensive than I wanted, but in the end, I think it was worth it for the results it provided.

It sets you up to drill the pocket holes at the right angle, at the right depth, for whatever thickness wood you're working on

Patience, padawan; I'm on my flight back as I type this!

You're going to want a second pair of hands regardless to hold stuff in place while you drill and tighten. I'm not sure what they mean by "two drywalls"; it sounds as though they layered it, but to my totally unprofessional self, that sounds silly.

16" apart ("on center" is the terminology used in construction) is standard for non-load-bearing studs, but you really can't trust it. Mine ended up ranging from 14" to 28" apart. Get a studfinder and mark them out; this one is super cheap, and works very well for metal studs.

Could you link me to or post an image of your mounting bracket? The primary reason I used plywood is that the bracket I got stupidly wasn't wide-enough to span even two studs. If you can hit at least two with yours, I'd say it's safe to forgo the plywood. That's true that the plywood is only visible from the side; unfortunately, my TV location causes that to be exposed (thanks, picky roommate >_>). If that's not a concern, I see no reason not to go ham and use the plywood.

The only potential issue with using 12 toggle bolts is that you'll have twice as many holes in the drywall to patch up when you eventually move out, but that's negligible.

I'm going to non-definitively say that there's no way your studs are 1" wide. That'd break compatibility with anything intended to use the standard size for wooden studs. But hey - finding the middle of a stud is what the studfinder's for!

Depending on how much juice you needed and how strongly you felt about the grounded outlet...here

This is what you're looking for. LED Light Strip - 12V they're about as simple as you can get. If you want to get fancy, you can make a barrel jack connector for you 12V battery and run this with colors.

This https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_6f8QDbTW0CFKP

Think of it less as a stud finder and more of a device that allows you to find metal on the other side of your drywall. A long, solid magnetic pull is a pipe. A vertical line of magnetic dots is a stud.

$10 for 16 ft. You might want to add a real LED controller so you can dim them. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EHHLD8/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_at_ws_us?ie=UTF8

I have only ever used the magnet based ones that are inexpensive. The magnets find the drywall nails which are only in the studs.

https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504558503&sr=1-4&keywords=stud+finder

There are actually stud finders made with rare earth magnets: http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

I've used lots of fancy electric ones in the past. Nothing is more consistent than this cheap thing.

Try this type of stud finder.
https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI

http://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B000IKK0OI I've used this for years and will never use anything else again... yea it's just a magnet

This is what I use in my old house: CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t5StDb0W5KXV8

+1 for pocket holes.
http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449595585&sr=8-1&keywords=kreg+jr

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=11849T9OC3D6G&coliid=IUHIVR4L8ZJCO

Take your pick:
Home Depot
Lowes
Amazon

Kreg Jig.

edit: more specifically the Pocket Hole System

Nope, they're called pocket holes and I used a pocket hole jig. This is the exact one I use.

simplest way (if I am reading your post correctly) is buy a light->outlet adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-1403-Outlet-Socket-Adapter/dp/B001F71O70

"Used for any 12 volt application (motorcycle, car or suv auto modding)."

You need a 12 volt adapter. Find one for purchase.

Couple that with this, and you're all set!

http://www.amazon.com/Strip-light-Waterproof-Flexible-Light/dp/B005EHHLD8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405054002&sr=8-1&keywords=led+strip

The only thing you'll need is to find the right transformer to plug it all in, unless you just buy this version.

http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Controller-2034RGB-3315-3215/dp/B0040FJ27S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1405054038&sr=8-3&keywords=led+strip

I used a 16.4 ft RGB LED light strip kit from LEDwholesalers. I got it on Amazon for $32.

For the Americans here this is the equivalent.

My roommate and I both have these (he has a few sets around our house) and they work without issue.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040FJ27S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Changing-Flexible-Yourself-Controller/dp/B0040FJ27S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344378430&sr=8-1&keywords=multicolor+led+strip

http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Controller-2034RGB-3315-3215/dp/B0040FJ27S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367435588&sr=8-1&keywords=led+strip+light

You really should shop around. Here's an entire kit for a lot less

I use a combination of these into the stud and or in the void for everything from my mounted Tv's to a bike rack.

For the stud portion of your mount:
FastenMaster Headloks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001OEJULG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497897416&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lag+screw+spider&dpPl=1&dpID=317en472JRL&ref=plSrch

And these in the void between studs:
Toggled SnapToggler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051IBBUE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497897314&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=toggle+bolts&dpPl=1&dpID=410A7FjjAcL&ref=plSrch

thoughts on the LED strip lights?

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005EHHLD8/

Got to my computer
Lights,
[Cable,] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YDK49M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Clip,
and Metal loopy thing (prevents cable from rubbing though rubber coating)

Just need eyelets or something to attach it the cable to the posts.

You can get a smaller version of the Kreg jig for $40. http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W/ref=pd_cp_hi_2
Takes a little more finagling, but I've used mine a ton. Once you've gone pocket screw, you don't really ever want to go back - it is so easy!

No, there are tons of LED strips that have pre-coded patterns in them. Here is an example!

Electric stud finders are shit. Buy this wonderful little magnet and wave it over a wall until it sticks. This will effectively just find the studs by finding the nails in the studs and sticking to them, then you know your stud location and you can move up and down on that to find the height you want.

Seriously. It works every single time, I hang mine on a piece of dental floss so I can swing it around on the wall until it sticks on it’s own.

It costs $7 and will prevent your tv from falling off of the wall.

CH Hanson 03040 Magnetic Stud Finder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FJNNDbVDS7NAQ

I used these, and theres no need to use a computer! it comes with its own remote!

How strong of a magnet are you using? If the plaster is thick, it needs to be very strong, and you need to watch very carefully (and hold it very loosely, or dangle it from a string.) I use one of these, and it just barely does it for my plaster walls, and it was a pain in the ass.

Also, are you finding multiple nails, and then connecting them vertically to find the stud? I found there was all kinds of random metal shit in my wall apparently, but the only clear vertical lines were studs. FWIW, there was not a stud by my outlet box either (I don't even wanna know how crazy the electric is in my apartment.)

The magnet ended up working for me, but next option was to remove the baseboard and see if that helped, and if not, drill little holes underneath till I found the stud. As long as you put the baseboard back on, there's no harm in it.