(Part 2) Best products from r/DRZ400

I did this to my 2001 E last year. I used this kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RNI4QIE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It was easy wires to the battery and wires to the head light everything else is plug and play. The DRZ already has a high low beam bulb you just have to play with the three wires coming out of the headlight assembly until you figure which is high, low and ground. Other than that, it is tucking wires along the existing harness until you get to the rear. Remove the stock LED taillight and drill some holes to hold on the new light and blinkers. Disclaimer: you will drill holes in the tail fender and probably you headlight housing. I would also buy an additional tusk brake switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039ZTQEO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to replace the bolt on your front brake lever. This will light up your brake light whether you use the front or back brake. Also this kit requires that you turn it on/off manually (easy switch on the handle bars), but you could wire it in to the ignition I just never did. Bottom line is that it is very easy. took me about 3 beers, that's one evening in normal time.

Yup that is the right seat. You have to install it on your original seat pan. It's a pain, I would suggest getting a good stapler to do the job.

The plastic tanks might be a little lighter, probably not by much though. I had used the 4.1 gal, and the 3.1 gal. The 4.1 was nice for the range, but I didn't like that it always had a little bit of extra fuel that you couldn't use in the lobe. Also it didn't make the bike look as fast, which was important to me. The 3.1 was a good compromise of range and looks.

The JD kit may actually increase your fuel economy. I actually noticed that it did for me, and many others noticed the same. It also offers a needle with adjustments that the stock needle does not give. It is a very common mod to do, so the bike might already have it. Especially if the PO put a pipe on, but then again who knows.

Kientech makes the extended fuel screw for the bike. When you use the fuel screw, you have to use the OEM Pilot jet size of 22.5. Then turn the fuel screw 2.75 turns out. Many folks get this wrong, they install a bigger 25 PJ, as is recommend with the JD kit, but then they install the extended fuel screw too. This configuration is not good. The fuel screw has s different profile than the stock screw, it already compensates the same as a bigger PJ size would offer. So you end up with way to much fuel. This is covered by many folks as well.

I didn't actually buy the levers I had so I am not sure... but something like this...

https://www.amazon.com/MZS-1996-2000-2000-2017-DJEBEL250XC-1998-2007/dp/B01DBPUHIU

There are like a 100 options I see on amazon. You might want to search around for something with better reviews that looks like that.

The bike pumps oil back into the frame reservoir while it runs. When the bike sits, the oil slowly drains from the reservoir into the bottom of the motor. If you check the oil when it has not been running recently, it wont show any oil. If you check the bike immediately after it was running, it will always show full or high. The bike has to have been running on the street for a while, then park wait 3 mins, then check. The manual says you can idle the bike for 3 mins, then wait 3 mins and check, but this is wrong, just idling the bike will give a false low reading. It is super annoying. I would always check it when I got home after a long ride, that way I was never second guessing myself with pre-ride half assed checks.

I spent a huge amount of time confirming the oil check processes on my bike. The stupid dipstick was maddening. I can backup the procedure that I mention above because I would always measure how much oil drained out of the machine each time I changed the oil, and I would always check it before draining to confirm things too.

ProTaper -CR High Bend Bend with a 1-2" riser.

Mind you, standard bar size is 7/8", the fatter bars are 1 1/8" so if you up size you'll need to make sure you get the adaptor for the mount etc... But everything else should just fit right on, recommend getting new grips.

• 6'2"

Thank you Thank You. Would this work as a replacement as well even without the full brake upgrade?

These look like the ones I bought from Amazon for my 2019 DRZ400sm. Mine fit fine.

Yeah, it wasn't too bad.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CHCPT32/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I like the mirrors alot, I've bought them twice now.

I bought this and it works great

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039LB8PI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510099229&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tusk+spark+plug+socket&dpPl=1&dpID=31hdTR5ZzbL&ref=plSrch

I bought mine from Amazon.

Someone once told me that Tractor Supply sold them in the livestock care section or whatever. I can tell you that none of the stores near me do. And if you ask someone in the store "I would like to buy a really big syringe" they look at you very strange.

The Japanese toolkit that came stock with the bike, a couple tire spoons and a tire pump is all you need. I'll bring a spare front & rear tube with me for any trip long enough that I'm taking saddlebags.

edit: and a friend to lift the bike while you slide the axle back in.

Same... I ended up dropping my bike in the garage breaking a signal, and the taillight was already cracked so I went with a DRC Edge light... looks much better, easy enough to install.

http://www.twistedthrottle.ca/drc-edge-tail-light-with-aluminum-tail-light-holder-for-suzuki-drz400s-00-14-drz400sm-05-14

That didn't include blinkers... but they are only another $20 or $30... i had to add resistors for the blinkers though otherwise they flashed too fast... I got the resistors off amazon, I think. https://www.amazon.ca/AMAZENAR-Resistor-Running-Blinker-Cancellor/dp/B015JHP5QC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492819468&sr=8-3&keywords=led+resistor

Sorry about all of the Canadian pricing... I'm in Canada so those are the links I know.

For my rear fender I used these items:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071DF568M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IBG2C9W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Made a bracket from sheet metal I had from other projects.

Final Product looks like this:

https://imgur.com/Hm6uQy9

You're saying you're missing the hose that runs to the airbox?

Photos would help

Also, good catch on the heat being an issue.

Mine had a crack from heat, and I noticed dirt/oil under the area it covers. Also had petcock problems, so in trying to seal up the bike completely (decel popping from slip/stock header as well) I patched it up with Permatex Ultra Black, then put some high heat reflective tape over the bottom of it, then used a bit more Permatex to cover up the silver tape for good measure/cosmetics.

The oil return tank (technical microfiche name) began to split at the seam from the heat it appears. It also had pitting/slight perforation from what had to be heat on the rounded part that is immediately above the exhaust.

http://i.imgur.com/j3nccBp.jpg

Here's the tape I mention, and there are dozens of similar products out there.

http://www.amazon.com/DEI-010408-1-375-Cool-Tape/dp/B000E283S0/ref=pd_ybh_10

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006B2V4CO/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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A VERY similar unit but branded/sold by Baja Designs. Comes with the same 9-pin connector as the stock DRZ unit. However you do have to pin-out and re-arrange the wire positions in in the plug housing. The metal inserts in the plug housing can easily be released by using a dental pick to release the tabs. Just go slow or Google how to remove automotive connector pins. Then just re-insert them back into where they need to be to to match the OEM wiring. I can probably provide a pinout/schematic if you get there but get stuck. Basically work on 1 switch function at a time- 2 wires for the horn, polarity doesn't matter. 3 wires for the blinkers, polarity does matter. A few more wires for the headlight. I wired mine so the highbeam indicator (little blue led on top of the switch) comes on at the handlebar control but no longer turns on the original DRZ dash light. Reasoning being the handlebar light is less distracting off to the side at night.

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Lastly I can comment that the Baja Designs blinker/headlight/horn unit is about half an inch narrower than the stock unit and does not protrude very far off the bars towards the clutch perch, i.e. the diameter is small. This unit allows my ASV F3 clutch lever w/ perch to be pulled all the way back touching the handlebar, where with the stock unit it would interfere.

The bike has 1800 miles on it. It has Renthal bars, ProTaper grips, some Acerbis replacement plastics, and a IMMIX racing rack. It's sitting on Dunlop 606's. The only things I could find wrong with it were the dented muffler, bent brake levers, and missing oem mirrors.

I would appreciate some recommendations for these upgrades:

• Wide foot pegs
  
• Brake and clutch levers, I was considering these budget levers
  
• Better mirrors, I can't see a damn thing without crouching to one side
  
• Integrated tail light
  
• Upgrade to the headlight, either a drop in LED or a full replacement
  
• Low profile turn signals
  
• Bark busters, I was considering Acerbis Rally Pro X-Strong
  
  Any mandatory mods or other upgrades I should consider? I plan on jetting, 3x3 mod, and getting a full exhaust down the road some. I'm still using borrowed gear at the moment so I need to buy that before I get too crazy.