Best products from r/DSLR

Yeah, the amazon kits, for the most part, are just junk, and the stuff you do really want is bad quality. It's substantially better to get stuff as you get more experience.

For a camera, I definitely think that you are good with a t6i or t7i. I agree with the other poster to make sure that you get an "i" because they have the swivel screen that makes life so much easier. After a quick check, you could get this referbed t6i for about $500 which is not bad. Don't worry about it coming with a kit lens, sometimes those lenses can be useful, and for the most part, since it is an "amateur" camera, they are hard to find body only. So you should be good there.

I'm not entirely sure what the "tutorial" mode is, but really do read up on the exposure triangle. It's not super difficult (there are TONS of great graphics that help explain it), and it will make your photos/videos SO much better because you will be in control, and more aware of the capabilities and limitations of your camera than if you shoot in a mode that's not manual.

Also a few quick notes about filming with DSLRs that you aren't going to see if you just look at photography sources. One, try your darnest to always shoot ISO 100 when filming. Bumping the ISO in pictures is fine because the grain is either not recognizable or is easy to remove in photos, but it is SUPER noticeable and hard to remove in video. This is because the grain changes every frame, effectively animating it. The other thing is that if you shoot higher than 60 fps, you might end up wanting to add motion blur or something because the video might look a little odd. On the contrary, for photos you'll probably want to shoot more like 200 so that handshake doesn't introduce motion blur.

The other thing that is SUPER IMPORTANT for video and just like "nice to have" for photos is a good memory card that has a high write speed. This is the one that I personally use. If the memory card doesn't have a high write speed, then your camera will just stop recording because the write speed of the memory card can't keep up with the data coming from the camera.

Also, side note, there are tons of articles that will say that canons can't shoot more than 12 minutes of video at a time because it exceeds the 4gb file size (which it can't go past due to stupid copyright laws. I don't get it either). This isn't entirely true. All the canons that I have dealt with (everything from a t3i to 70D) record fine past the 12 minute mark, just when they get done recording it will split it into 4gb files. Only one canon have I ever seen ALWAYS shut done at the 12 minute mark no matter what, so I suspect it was just broken. However, even with my own trusted camera that I have never had problems recording more than 12 minutes has recently stopped at about 30mins (my guess had to do write speeds), so just always be aware.

As far as lighting kits go, this one is pretty good for a beginer. Most people do a basic 3 point lighting which is probably fine enough for what you want to do. So with that in mind, and since you want to do green screen, you might want to get 2 of those kits. The key to doing green screen is to have a really well- and evenly- lit screen. TBH you really don't need to get a green screen kit unless you just want to. All it really is, is just a large piece of fabric anchored in such a way so that there are no wrinkles. Of course, the kits are nicer, but you may want to see if you can DIY that part.

As for a tripod, this one is probably fine for what you want to do. Just keep in mind that if you continue to do more in video/photography you will probably need to get a better one later on. I personally have one like this that I use like as a back-up, so they aren't a complete waste of money.

Hopefully this helps! If you have any more questions feel free to ask!

I got the T3i for under 600$, new, with a few semi-useful accessories. Amazon has a few deals that allow for some acc. equip. that can be useful, but is really just another selling point. These deals are usually from vendors like Photo4Less (who I got mine from, great shipping, got it within 4 days), but Canon has a good price too. This is a good DSLR, compared to many other video cameras you may have (eg- gopro, other small video-only cameras).

Image Quality

The quality of the video and photos I was able to get after a few days was fantastic. Here are some pics I took with the T3i on day 2. DAY 2!!!!!( I was still recovering from Wisdom teeth surgery. This thing shoots in about 4K+ still images, so you won't be wanting for pixels, only for less noise. Keep your ISO down to 100 or so, and you'll usually be fine. Some of my pics have lots of noise, that's because I was still learning about what makes exposure work for the first few weeks.

Video

This playlist shows the versatility of this camera, from low-light (car light) situations to good lighting (slender video) to having a friend who doesn't shoot DSLR control it (ALS video) [I should also mention that there was a bit of post-production stabilization, but that Image stabilizer is really powerful all the same], and the flip out screen speaks for itself.

Screen, Youtube use, and other camera choices

The flip-out screen is immensely single-user friendly, and allows for a great range of artistic control and frame control, when used as a facecam.

Keep in mind that it doesn't really shoot long videos too well, it stops at about 11 minutes on 1080p, but I doubt that it really should be used for that. If you need a camera to sit in one place for a long time, invest in a gopro or just use your notebook's webcam.

If you are looking to shoot something artistic, this 11 minute video limit won't be a problem, your shots shouldn't be that long.



Audio

The audio is good. Audition picked up a few persistent high-range whines, but it's not too noticeable, provided you fade it out well or don't use it's audio interchanged between a dedicated microphone (say, a blue snowball). If you've got the budget, get a RODE mic or a decent lavalier mic.

WARNINGS

Learn about ISO, Exposure, Aperture, etc. Knowing is half the battle

No build quality issues as of yet, but keep it out of the rain just in case. Not waterproof, so I hear

BUY 2 MORE BATTERIES AND A CHARGER if you plan on doing video shoots. I have a total of 3 batteries, and 2 chargers, for only 20$ above the normal cost (third party, can't think of brand) of the camera.

Buy a nice case. Here is the one I got, and it's smexy as hell.

a 64GB Memory card can't hurt, and I've got one left over from Gopro usage (microSD+adaptor will work)

I hope this review was helpful. If you want to see more informed or otherwise content (and eventually a review of the t3i then please check out my youtube channel if you wish. I post a bunch of stuff, and have about 7000 views. Leave some feedback, i'm still finding my niche.

Thanks for reading,

Chris

In the last few years, I have owned and/or used Canon 5DII, 7D, Blackmagic Pocket and now GH4. Lots of pictures (hey, I'm visual).

The basic Field Of View (FOV) of lenses don't change - a 50mm is a 50mm, no matter if the lens is made for a full-frame 35mm film camera, or a native Micro Four Thirds cam like the GH4. The only difference is the image circle a lens projects behind it is (usually) designed for the size of sensor it has to cover. If the lens is designed for a larger sensor, it can usually be used on a smaller sensor, but the FOV will appear smaller. The lens will appear more telephoto, just as if you cropped out the center of a photo on a larger camera. thus, "crop factor".

Here are the basic video shooting modes for the GH4. Now, that picture compares the modes to the full MFT sensor. 1080 uses the full width of the sensor, but not the full height, due to the 16x9 Aspect Ratio. the MFT sensor is quite a bit smaller than a "Full Frame" camera such as the Canon 5D, or an APS-C Like the 7D.

Sidenote: I said basic video shooting modes, because the v2 firmware has added several other 4K modes only really useful for pulling stills, or special-use videos in more square-ish aspect ratios (like shooting with an anamorphic lens).

Various sensor sizes, and modes within them can seem super complicated, and difficult to wrap your head around. Mainly, I think it's due to the wealth of choices available: with mirrorless cameras, you can adapt almost any lens made for stills or cinema, and quite a few lenses originally made for video. This is because the Flange Focal Distance, or the distance between the sensor and the lens mount, is so short. As long as the FFD is longer, you can adapt the lens easily with a basically a dumb tube that moves the lens farther out, and has the proper mounts at each end.

That's fine for all-manual lenses, where you can adjust the iris, focus and (for zoom lenses) focal length manually. But for more modern lenses that require electronic control, you need a "smart" adapter like the ones from Metabones. Metabones also make Speedboosters, which "condense" the image circle of a larger lens into the size of a smaller sensor, giving you three advantages: .7x wider FOV than a "dumb" adapter; 1 stop more light; and, better image detail.

If you compare the GH4s sensor sizes to other common film/video formats, it's rather on the small-ish size for either motion picture or still photography, but larger than most 1/3" or 1/2" pro video cameras of the last few decades. In 4K, it's a bit larger than the BMPCC, which is almost identical to Super-16mm film. Add a Speedbooster, and it's very similar to APS-C or Super 35mm film.

I like this general range a lot. Many of the fast & small C-mount lenses that cover the Pocket also cover 4K, and using a Speedbooster opens up (relatively) inexpensive and high-quality Canon lenses. Like any camera with a smaller sensor, telephoto is easy. Getting a true wide-angle rectilinear is where it starts to get hard and pricey. 18mm is NOT a wide angle on this size sensor without a speedbooster.

That said, my single, ideal all purpose lens would be the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 VC, Canon Mount on a Canon Speedbooster. Why Canon instead of Nikon? Because of the flange distance, I could also use old manual Nikon lenses with a simple cheap adapter. Can't do that the other way around.

This gives me a very nice, nearly parfocal, constant f2.0 lens that goes from a nice wide to a medium telephoto. This lens and the Speedbooster are abouth 30% more than the most popular native MFT lens, but you only have to buy the SB once. If you don't need stabilization, the lens is even less.

Don't want to make any assumptions, but the right gear is pretty low on the list if you are new to filmmaking or taking video. In photography here everyone will tell you knowing what ISO/Aperature/Shutter speed mean and how to work with them will make a MUCH bigger difference then if you don't learn that and just buy nicer gear.

In video this applies DOUBLE at least. Because now when you edit it all together you will need specific shots. My wife is an excellent photographer and spent a few weeks this summer doing photography and some video work for a nonprofit working in Africa and came back with some footage that was pretty tough to use, not for the sake that she didn't have the gear or equipment. Almost unusable just because the shots were not there, not the right length, not the right distances, etc.

Focus on the video aspect, the storytelling aspect, how to take and "think in shots" first and foremost. Don't worry about the gear yet.

This is incredible and concise and I cannot recommend it enough: "How to Shoot Video that Doesn't Suck"

But not to come across smug or anything and blow off your question, some gear recommendations:

A cheap, battery powered lapel mic with extra batteries. If you do any interviews on site (you should try!) this can improve your audio dramatically for dirt cheap.

Tripods make a difference in panning and zooming and whatnot, but honestly the MAJORITY of your shots should NOT be panning and zooming shots (this was the problem with all of my wifes footage). So don't worry too much about this.

SD cards obviously you'll need very fast cards, but even on top of that some are better than others with different cameras I have no idea why. I can put a "90m/s" SD card in my 60D that works fine, and another that runs out of buffer in 5 seconds, even when trying to reduce quality or other issues. Both are the same "speed" cards! I recommend checking your specific camera or some forums where people have discussed that.

Some of those editing tips:

• Stop, point, shoot for a bit, MOVE. Try to take a particular action or subject that is happening, and get an overview of what is going on, then get a little closer and get a good focused idea of what is happening, then get REALLY close and get a nice close up of the eyes, emotion, face, or specific action. Do this for each subject, event or specific action you're filming. (EDIT: Like what this guy is getting at, don't worry so much about the order, just getting multiple shots for every one action).
  
  
• Pan and zoom sparingly. While motion seems to be the pinnacle of "film" over still photography, it is not workable to have EVERY shot panning or zooming around (I just saw a buddy of mine shoot an engagement video like this, with great equipment, that just looked so awkward). Watch videos, it is more often than not quick cuts between different stable shots that give the 'looking around' feel of video. Not actually moving the camera around and following things or pointing the camera at things while they move around.
  
  
• Things like avoiding cheesy effects, transitions and fonts and whatnot. Did you end up wanting to edit this yourself or the same friend that did the promo?
  
  What it is going to boil down to is if you sent some professional video crews out with iPhones they would come back and put something much more watchable, interesting, and engaging than a group of beginners with the best equipment. This is sort of true in photography as well to some degree, but absolutely a fact in video. So focus on the important part.
  
  Anyway tl;dr, focus on learning the language of video, filmmaking, and that kind of stuff before worrying too much about gear.
  
  (But really let me if you have any more specific questions or need any other help, I am not professional at all, but have been doing a lot of amateur video work and editing perhaps a dozen small projects and stuff over the last few years, I can show you some specific examples of stuff too. Do a lot of overseas work and deal with portability issues and stuff. Have even been teaching a beginners crash course "media" class with the disaster relief organization I work with, mostly focuses on ethics and stuff. We send teams with a very low end but user friendly video setup I put together to use for the work we do).

Honestly I would say just do a lot of research. I know you are looking for quick answers but so many things you are asking about are really just personal preference and depend greatly on the details of what you are doing. I'll answer a couple of questions based on what are the best bang for the buck items that those of us in the cash strapped hobby world use.

Questions that are easy to answer:

> Tripod with video camera mount (I'm a real dummy here in that I don't know what's available. Personally, I've got a SLIK PRO 700DX with panhead that's fine for stills but crummy for video work. What should I buy?)

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-EI717A-Professional-Camera-Tripod/dp/B008AGMNOM/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1425530658&sr=8-12&keywords=fluid+head+tripod

That widely regarded to be one of the best budget fluid heads on the market. Put it on top of a $100 set of legs and you have a really good starting point. Although you may be best off just springing for a complete Manfrotto unit. Which exact one depends on how heavy the camera/lens combo you use. (And if you end up buying a rail system for follow focus ect.)

> Steadycam? (I don't know what you would call this but is there some sort of mount that makes it easier to do handheld video work with a DSLR? I don't know what exists)

http://www.ebay.com/sch/Cameras-Photo-/625/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=FOTGA+S-450+PRO&rmvSB=true
Is in my opinion the best bang for the buck steadycam. Do some research again as a huge amount of using one is skill with balancing it and handling it.

Other thoughts: For the budget you have there is no reason to limit yourself to only using DSLRs. You really do limit yourself in a number of ways. (Overheating, audio, 30 min record times, handing) The Sony FS100 is only $2500 for the body and an absolutely great option. You can adapt almost any lens onto it. The Sony native catalog is growing.

I'm a bit late, but I would go with The [Canon T5] (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-Rebel-EF-S-18-55mm-Digital/dp/B00IB1BTWI/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1459307464&sr=8-12&keywords=canon) as recommended by a few others in the comments. It's just the best deal for your price range, you'll also need to pick up a decent sized SD card. If she is new to DSLRs I would recommend sticking with the kit lens for now. Save whatever is left in your budget, and use it later down the road when she has a better feel for the camera. People often think buying great glass is the key to great photos. While it is part of the equation later on, a big portion of taking better photos in the beginning is having a good working knowledge of photography along with the camera you are shooting on. Youtube has a ton of reviews, and tutorials on the Canon T5, I would recommend checking some of those out before purchasing.

You're biggest problem will not be the microphone, but what you're recording your audio onto. I found out really quick that the audio recording of a DSLR, regardless of microphone, is terrible in quality and with plenty of static noise. I use a Tascam DR-05 to record audio, in combination with either a RODE VideoMic or a lavalier (there are some really cheap ones that do an ok job for low budget productions). The Tascam DR-05 also has a pretty good mic built in , so you could probably start with just that. Remember to record the audio with your Tascam (or recorder) AND with your camera, so that you can easily sync them in post. Always remember to record a minute of silence in the room BEFORE filming so that you can have a room tone (or world tone, if outdoors) sample that can be for adding a more natural ambient sound for portions you may silence in the video.

I would also recommend you pick up:

a three point lighting kit for indoor shooting (like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-Lighting-Hairlight-Softbox-9004SB2/dp/B0047FHOWG/ref=sr_1_4?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1450430338&sr=1-4&keywords=three+point+lighting+kit),

a variable ND filter for outdoor shooting (like this one: http://www.amazon.com/58mm-Variable-NDX-Fader-Filter/dp/B00QVOQWM4/ref=sr_1_7?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1450430377&sr=1-7&keywords=variable+ND+filter)

a reflector, for bouncing off light outdoors... (like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1450430475&sr=1-1&keywords=reflector)

Extra batteries of course.

You'll find these tools useful for getting higher quality audio and picture, there are lots and lots of tutorials on YouTube that will help you learn very quickly how to use your equipment. On a final note, I don't think the Rebel SL1 was a good choice of camera. If I had to pick a Rebel camera for video, and was limited in buget, I would have gone for a Rebel T4i or T5i, in combination with magic lantern. Another important thing to remember, is make sure your SD is AT LEAST class 10 (I recommend Sandisk Extreme pro 95/mbps 32 or 64gb), and NEVER use a mini sd card with an adapter (I've had bad experiences with this).

Best of luck to you, and happy filming!

There are a lot of things wrong with this post.

The 50mm/1.8 is one of the cheapest lenses out there. Because it is a prime (instead of a zoom) they can have fairly good image quality and still offer it at a decent price.

There aren't any wide angle prime lenses in this range I'm aware of (there is a 28mm prime for $400+ but that's really not very wide on an crop sensor body). For wide angle shots your best bet is using your kit lens wide open (assuming it's something like 18mm or 28mm) and saving for a true wide angle.

Saying I want a cheap wide angle lens with good quality is like saying I want a cheap computer that can play Battlefield 3 with max settings on at full resolution. You can buy a cheap lens that might be sort of a wide angle but it's not going to perform very well.

The cheapest wide angle for a Canon that's nice is probably the Sigma 10-22mm zoom lens for close to $500.

http://www.amazon.com/Sigma-10-20mm-4-5-6-Digital-Cameras/dp/B0007U00X0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1320951022&sr=8-1

If you are looking for a good all around lens that can go fairly wide open I'd look at something like this Tamron for $500

http://www.amazon.com/Tamron-17-50mm-Aspherical-Digital-Cameras/dp/B000EXR0SI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1320951205&sr=1-1

Hi /u/OZ4RK - to answer your question - the two main differences between the 60D and the 70D for video are:

1. the 60D can only record 12 minutes of continuous video before it has to be restarted, while the 70D can record for 30
   
   
2. The 70D has fast autofocus while you're shooting video - the 60D has zero autofocus capability while you're shooting video
   
   The image quality from these two cameras is exactly the same. Sadly, that means the same amount of moire when shooting patterned subjects such as shingled roofs: http://vimeo.com/73429088
   
   If you need video autofocus and to record for more than 12 minutes at a time - get the 70D. But don't expect any better image quality. Both cameras are susceptible to moire and artifacting.
   
   All of that said, as a filmmaker, I wouldn't get either one of them. In addition to their moire problem, both camera have reflex mirrors that are useless for video. These mirrors block the cameras' viewfinders, so you are forced to use the LCD on back of the camera for critical composition and focus. This is OK indoors, but outdoors in bright sunlight, you may not be able to see what you're shooting. As a result, most Canon and Nikon shooters are forced to buy a "loupe" (otherwise known as an LCD viewfinder) or an even more expensive Electronic Viewfinder (EVF) in order to see what they're shooting when they are outdoors.
   
   In addition, neither of these cameras can record full HD 1080/60fps video for in-camera slow motion.
   
   Neither is compatible with power zoom lenses.
   
   And neither of these cameras has a headphone jack.
   
   Plus, you have to modify the 60D with Magic Lantern firmware to give it basic features such as audio level metering and manual level control.
   
   At this price point, instead of these limited cameras, I recommend a [$998 (as of this post) Panasonic GH3] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009B0WREM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B009B0WREM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew) DSLM ("M" is for mirrorless). This camera can record continuously for hours instead of minutes (very useful if you ever want to record a play, a speech, a concert or other event), it records at up to 1080/60p for slow motion, it has built-in audio level meters and audio level control, it has a headphone jack - it is compatible with Panasonic power zoom lenses and it has a viewfinder that actually works while you're shooting video so you don't have to buy a loupe or EVF to see what you're shooting in bright sunlight.
   
   Here is what this camera can do:
   
   Music Video:
   
   http://vimeo.com/53834993
   
   Narrative:
   
   http://vimeo.com/49420579
   
   Documentary:
   
   http://vimeo.com/66940018
   
   There are many more examples on Andrew Reid's GH3 channel over on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/groups/gh3
   
   It's a pretty good still camera too:
   
   https://www.flickr.com/groups/gh3/pool/
   
   https://www.flickr.com/groups/2042242@N25/pool/
   
   In my view, the GH3 is the best still/video camera you can buy below $1500.
   
   Hope this is helpful and good luck with your decision!
   
   Bill

Here's some options that I like, if you don't mind buying used you'll have more room to buy more lenses and any other gear you'll like, but these are all new and all kits which includes the body and a lens. 

If you want to stick with Nikon the D5600 is an amazing camera, the image quality and usability are awesome. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VW3KC9X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M-GNDb4BPTVEJ

If your willing to spend a little more the D7100 is a great camera I can only find the body and not a kit but you could just get a lens separately.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/927106-GREY

You could also buy a Used D600 for around $600-$650 with a low shutter count if you are interested in full frame, then spend the rest on a lens.

For Canon If your on a budget I'd recommend something like the rebel 7ti 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P15K8Q7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IgHNDb2YN44GR

If you're willing to spend more the 77D is a great option, the first link the the 77D with a 18-55 and the second is a 18-55mm + 55-250mm

 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KVS93ZF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KhHNDbV4SY44F
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y1YVWLH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vFHNDbWGFF6GX

As for mirrorless I recommend these cameras.

Canon EOS M50

 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWB61Z2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kxHNDb2NM14RY

Sony a6300

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GK50X4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xAHNDbN04X71G

Fujifilm X-T20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCVN74T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pCHNDb74CQ8X6

I have the Canon 80d and like it. It’s a good well rounder and my only complaint is the low light performance (however the lens could have something to do with this). However I will mention this is $1000. An option I see often (never have used myself) and is cheaper ($500-$900) is the Sony A6000 or the Sony A6300 (or a newer model). These are mirrorless and when you look at the viewfinder and make changes, that is what the image will look like. The A6300 might be more future proof with its 4K video if video is of interest. These would be good photo options from what I can tell (but again take that with a grain of salt since I’ve only used the 80d). If you are interested in more video vs photography another cheaper option would be the Panasonic G7 and is 4K. I cannot speak for Nikon, but they seem like good budget cameras, but may be lacking video wise. But overall the glass will make more of a difference than the camera! Any of these options would be a step up from your smartphone!

Camera links (Amazon)
Sony Alpha a6000
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8BICB2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7eQkDbQD2A5PY

Sony Alpha a6300
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007GK50X4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5gQkDbYD1ET6T

Panasonic G7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X409PQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aiQkDbKSNBTTR

Canon 77D (80D alternative)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VSTCWJ9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4kQkDbJGAEWNA

Canon 80D
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BUYK04A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZjQkDbTAJB668

I went with a 4/3 sensor mirrorless camera, the Olympus OM-D EM10 Mark II. For under $600 I have two kit lenses and in-body stabilization. I love the photo quality.

It is smaller and lighter, so I carry it more places than I might a A6000 (which I considered) with it's heavier larger lenses. The impetus was an upcoming ship cruise in Europe where I'll be on-shore a bunch and seeing historical sites and such.

I think the Panasonic G7 is also 4/3 sensor format.

The Mark III version of the Olympus OM-D also is worth considering.

Here is the Amazon link to the deal I got, and you might find it cheaper at Adorama:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CIXJK16?th=1

It depends a lot on what you'll be shooting of course.

​

i'd probably bring a big zoom and a 35mm prime lens, because it will end up being about 50mm with your D3500's 1.5x crop.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-AF-S-NIKKOR-Focus-Cameras/dp/B001S2PPT0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=5X4G5LA01DVH&keywords=35mm+lens+nikon&qid=1567596975&s=gateway&sprefix=35mm+lens%2Caps%2C138&sr=8-3

​

https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-70-300-4-5-6G-Focus-Cameras/dp/B00005Y3OM/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=zoom+lens+nikon&qid=1567597006&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

​

can't beat either for the price.


I often bring the so-so kit lens on hiking trips as well, since it's frankly pretty durable and essentially disposible, very replaceable. I wouldn't mind if i broke it.

http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-07LAnkeos-Mount-Adapter-Camera/dp/B001G4QXLE/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1371271556&sr=1-1&keywords=nikon+to+canon+lens+adapter

I've heard some people say this adapter is not tight but I've got a few of them and never had a that with them. They are pretty cheap and very simple, and unlike some adapter (like the minolta lens adapter) it does not have a piece of glass on it. You can go to a photo supply store and get a "better" adapter for maybe 40 or 50 bucks, but it's the exact same thing.

First, thank you so much for the clarification on the camera body, but are you referring to something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001S2PPT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O82KAb09HY1SV

for around this price you don't really have a lot of choices.

You can find a Canon T5 or with some luck a T6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB1BTWI/ref=psdc_3017941_t2_B01LQMI4V2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNTPN8C/ref=psdc_3017941_t2_B00IB1BTWI

or the Nikon 3300

https://www.amazon.com/Nikon-D3300-AF-P-18-55mm-Digital/dp/B01JN28QQA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518111206&sr=1-3&keywords=nikon+D3300

And the sony offer in this price range is the 5100, that is a mirrorless, nor a DSLR.



I do prefer the Canon, but mostly because I have a Canon and lots of accessories. I bought a T6 for my sister so she can borrow what she needs.

Used market is a mess... Sometimes you get a Canon 5D for 300, and sometimes you can't even get a T5i... And you never know about the shutter, if it is busted or working fine.

Buy new or refurbished, it is "safer".

I would consider a little bit higher price point and maybe a mirrorless.