(Part 3) Best products from r/Dell

I'll add my experience as well since I just went through this Friday (and I'm also a scala guy, who recently came from a mac). I'll add a quick note that my primary goal with the dual boot is to use Windows for occasional gaming and Linux as my primary driver 99% of the time.


a) I wiped the supplied windows and reinstalled windows clean. I thought about keeping the install, but a couple screens into the setup was a Mcafee screen with my email address pre-populated and noped right out of there and wiped the disk. I think with Windows especially it's valuable not having to deal with all the pre-installed software. All the drivers are available here:


http://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/19/product-support/product/xps-15-9560-laptop/drivers


I recommend downloading them all and throwing them on a usb as the wireless card doesn't work out of the box in windows, just run all the installers after the install. Before running the install, I recommend disabling secure boot and setting the hard drive to 'ahci' in the BIOS, otherwise the installer won't be able to see the disk.


b) I also have a 1tb hard drive and decided on a new 50/50 split between the two operating systems. Games are very large, so I wanted plenty of space for my windows install, additionally my previous linux install only had about 250gb, so I know I won't have any issues with disk space. However, depending on your uses this may vary.


c) You can read & write the ntfs drive just fine, however I personally don't like sharing underlying file systems between operating systems. I use a combination of dropbox and git, however I have almost no use cases that require any meaningful sharing of data between the two operating systems.


d) I use arch linux personally with XMonad. Arch linux is nice because you always get pretty up to date software and it allows you easy access to most software via the AUR. Since your a functional guy like me, you may enjoy XMonad which is configured using Haskell. At the start there is a steep learning curve, but in the end you end up with a highly customized window manager that you can bend to your will in any way you wish. Otherwise I'd recommend using XFCE or Mate, both of which are lightweight. I personally don't care for unity or gnome 3 at all.


e) cool, me too


f) Some general notes I'd add:

• I'd recommend disabling secureboot in the bios and setting the hard drive to 'ahci'
  
  
  
• If you have a HiDPI monitor, I'd recommend buying a usb-c to DP adapter, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-DisplayPort/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485869850&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+c+dp+adapter+cable+matters
  
  
  
• UEFI isn't especially difficult to handle using either refind or grub, I recommend installing windows first and using the existing efi partition as your boot partition.
  
  
  
• Install bumblebee on your system to manage selectively using the discrete nvidia gpu. It works by allowing you to use a special launcher to launch an app powered by the nvidia card, otherwise it leaves the video card powered off to save power. It's very simple to install and use.
  
  
  
• The brightness of the screen has a huuuge impact on battery life, so much that decreasing the display brightness by half nearly doubles battery life. Luckily, the display is very bright and even running at 20% brightness is still plenty bright for regular use.
  
  
  
• Other than using the discrete video card, everything works extremely well out of the box on linux, so regardless of which way you decide to go, you shouldn't have too difficult of a time ahead.
  
  Good luck! If I think of anything else I'll add it.

If you're at all handy, it's really easy to do the upgrades yourself. Here's a YouTube video showing how. The video is for last year's 9570 model, but the upgrade process is identical. Skip the WiFi chip upgrade unless you have specific problems (rare) that can't be resolved with the process I linked above (exceedingly rare).

You have a ton of options for RAM and SSD - so many that it can be quite overwhelming. You have to be careful to get compatible memory, whereas basically any SSD that fits will work. Performance will be roughly the same across RAM kits, but the SSD has more of a performance range. I'll link some examples. Since your link is for Dell Canada, I'll just use Amazon Canada for examples because I know it works.

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Before you pick upgrades

If you can get the screen, processor, battery, and discrete graphics card you want simultaneously, start with 8 GB RAM and a 256 GB SSD and upgrade both aftermarket (go straight for 1 TB on the SSD upgrade). If you can't drop lower than a 512 GB SSD to get right screen/processor/battery/dGPU combination, instead go with the 512 GB SSD and keep that initially unless you know you need 1 TB. You can upgrade later, although it is a little tricky logistically - if you'd prefer to save yourself the potential hassle, upgrading to aftermarket 1 TB immediately is defensible.

Consider starting with 8 or 16 GB of RAM and, if the option is available for the rest of the config you want, a 512 GB SSD. If you get a model with 8 GB RAM, you can pull out the 2x4 GB sticks and put in a single 16 GB stick instead. If you decide you need 32 GB later, you can pop in a second identical 16 GB stick. (Two modules is technically faster than one, but the performance difference is negligible. Don't worry about it.) If the screen/processor/battery/GPU you want only come on a model with 16 GB RAM, just start with that and buy an upgrade later if you need more elbow room. Very few people need 32 GB - an example of that use case is if you're running multiple virtual machines simultaneously and have to have them locally rather than spinning up just what you need in The Cloud.

Similarly, though not to as great an extent, 1 TB is a lot of disk space. Do you need that much? If you don't have hundreds of gigabytes of media you want to store locally or keep >2 AAA games installed simultaneously, you're probably fine with 512 GB. Again, you can always upgrade later, although the logistics are trickier if you want to save all your old data.

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Memory

Crucial is a solid choice. Crucial's website has a nice compatibility picker for the XPS 15 7590, but since they don't handle Canadian customs for you, here's an Amazon CA link (32 GB selected, but you can pick 1x16 instead of 2x16).

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SSD

You need an m.2 2280 NVMe SSD. Nearly any SSD fitting those parameters will work. If you're going to aftermarket-upgrade the SSD, go straight for 1 TB (or more if you really need more). I have heard very good things about the Silicon Power P34A80 (review, purchase) and the Adata XPG SX8200 Pro (review, purchase). Note that the SX8200 Pro is double-sided, but it has been reported to fit and work just fine in an XPS 9570 and so should work in a 7590 as well.

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Display

You didn't ask about this, but since you're going to save a bunch of money on the RAM and SSD, consider whether your use case merits treating yourself to a 4K display for a fair chunk of the cost you just saved :-P

If you need >10 hours of battery runtime, skip 4K. Otherwise it's really nice. Text is amazingly crisp, which I have found lets me run at 175% display scaling and still read comfortably. (Windows 10 default is 125% for 1080p and 250% for 4K). There are a small number of applications that don't do well with UI scaling, which makes 4K a less-than-great choice for those, but you can always drop back to 1080p just while using those applications if you really have to. It'll look pretty good because 4K is an exact multiplier of 1080p.

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Base Models

I'm not listing prices because they change too frequently. Just check the links.

• 8 GB RAM, 256 GB SSD, 1080p display. At the time of this writing, there's a sale on the next model up that makes it cheaper to buy 16 GB/256 GB, so just do that. If it changes, you have this as a starting point.
  
• 16 GB RAM, 256 GB SSD, 1080p display.
  
• 16 GB RAM, 256 GB SSD, 4K OLED display. I went with 4K touch (IPS rather than OLED) because I'm paranoid about OLED burn-in. It's probably fine, but if you're worried about it, the IPS panel is theoretically safer and still gorgeous. Unfortunately it doesn't look like the IPS panel is available in Canada without paying out the nose for stock 32 GB RAM and 1 TB SSD.

u/xps9570 We apologize for any issues you are having with your device (Qualcomm Module). We would love to assist you with your current device and have released new drivers for not only your device that you have on your current machine, but the Killer AX1650 ( Intel Model: AX200NGW) and the Killer AC1550 ( Intel Model: 9260NGW) both based upon the Intel Modules. If you are still in the market for a device I have linked them both on the names of each card and you will see the same models others have posted in this thread. u/shiny_roc has confirmed results of his device and very detailed thread responses in the r/Dell community. If you have any questions let us know.

If any of you are still experiencing issues with your current Killer Networking adapter, we'd like to help! You can reach out to us directly here - https://support.killernetworking.com/submit-a-ticket/

To help expedite the ticket process please provide a Diagnostic along with your ticket if possible. 

Diagnostic Tool: https://support.killernetworking.com/download/killer-diagnostics/

Once you have the application downloaded, please run the application, click Start at the bottom left and then, once it is finished, click Save to save the output file, and attach the output file to your reply. Please do not copy and paste the results into your reply email. Please attach the output .TXT file to your reply, instead.  

I want to thank you all again for your time - Nicholas with Killer Networking

1. Any 2.5" HDD will fit, but not the desktop 3.5".
   
2. The RAM stick you chose wont work, because it is DDR3L. Dell 7000 Gaming requires DDR4, and it's better to choose the size and MHz of the new one the same as installed. For me it was 8GB 2400MHz, like that: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC4-19200-SODIMM-260-Pin-CT8G4SFS824A/dp/B01BIWKP58/
   
3. Buying it with stock IPS display is a cheaper and faster way.
   
   And dont worry, you got into the correct subreddit :)
   
   Good luck!

I've gone through two G7s.

1. The first one I returned because of the thermal throttling and the overheating. I tried underclocking with Throttlestop up to -144 hz but that didn't help. Also the build quality on the first one was lack luster, there was a slight gab between the keyboard chassis and the plastic sides. Lucked out though and got the AUO panel, which I was able to overclock to 90 hz.
   
2. The second G7 I received has been much better. I did a fresh install of Windows on it from the start, getting rid of all the bloatware and whatever Dell uses to throttle the machine. I used Snappy Driver Installer to find drivers direct from manufacturers and I avoided downloading the Dell auto update tool and kept only critical Dell drivers (Ethernet, Wifi, etc). I also overclocked the CPU cache and core to 144 hz. Also lucked out, and got the AUO panel on the new one. And got it in Alpine White too (which is pretty damn good looking)
   
   With the new G7, I'm hitting temps at around mid-70s with occasional highs into the mid-80s, but not often. Where as, the first machine would instantly hit the high 80s and throttle at round the early 90s. I have experienced some slight stuttering but I've come to terms that it's to be expected with gaming laptops.
   
   ​
   
   To help combat even more of the heat, I've recently purchase one of these vacuum fans form Amazon, and I think it's been helping, keeping temps about 6 - 7 degrees lower about an hour into gaming. https://www.amazon.ca/OPOLAR-Laptop-Temperature-Display-Cooling/dp/B01E3Q7FS6
   
   ​
   
   So far, it's a powerful machine for a lower price. It take a LOT of work to get it running the way you want it but so far I'm happy with the results.
   
   ​
   
   ​

Guys, I have the same problem.

The first 9570 I had overheated after 3 hours of gaming fortnite with high settings and smoke came out from the vents(from the thermal paste and CPU and GPU)

Computer went black and would not boot up, got a free replacement which is what I am using now and without any load it's hovering between 60 and 70,and gaming brings it up to 90 or 100,bought a cooling fan stand and was pleased to see temps of 40 to 50 on idle and max of 70 when gaming on highest quality and fps increases from 70 to about 120.

Would definitely recommend cooler masters 15-inch laptop stand/cooling fan.

It uses a USB connection but its a passthrough, so it has a female and male port, so it does not steal a USB slot.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-NotePal-CMC3-Notebook/dp/B00E7LJKA4/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=cooler+master+laptop+stand+with+fan&qid=1557056030&s=gateway&sr=8-8

​

This is the one I use and it's fantastic and affordable, hope this solves your heating problems too.

)

1. ​
   
   I recommend:
   
   

• Dell Premier Display for the color profiles, and the screen overlays while dragging apps that add an extra layer of app window auto-sizing. Do note you might have issues with automatic color profile changes during Netflix and other fast color-changing media playback, which I have yet to solve even after browsing the web and attempting suggested solutions
  
• Dell Connect as it brings something that even Google or Vysor have yet to achieve - seamless smartphone integration. It's tantalizing that Dell has the best phone connectivity app around. The fact I am suggesting in keeping it, to what would otherwise be factory crapware, goes to show how good it performs
  
• DO NOT INSTALL BIOS 1.3.X+ unless you want to lose S3 sleep forever. thank M$ for that one.
  
• Dell Power Manager (or whatever it's called) is essential for achieving the best performance on fans and some components (CPU/GPU/Memory), and the opposite too if you want the chillest, quietest setup, which is unfortunate from Dell to not let the OS take control from. MAX and MIN fan RPM are only achieved through settings on this utility
  
• Every other driver/utility you can stay away from. Dell SupportAssist is nice for checking service tag and other data on the screen, but you can do that a number of other ways. Submitting suppor tickets by phone is preferred IMHO. Dell digital Delivery and Dell update are useless, and so is everything else not mentioned
  
• all other drivers, either let Windows decide or go to each individual device OEM support page and install what you think might have more impact (I suggest Killer for Wifi, LAN for whatever is in your hub, Nvidia for the dGPU, Chipset drivers and iGPU from Intel.
  
  2 .
  
  Do these two (Dell BIST) tests (Dell ePSA). Also run your benchmark of choice (I suggest Unigine Superposition) while running HWInfo and see your Avg. and MAX, temperatures for CPU/GPU, SSD and Dell Chassis components (you need to allow extra sensors on HWInfo), and check throttling flags too. No matter the results, I recommend installing Throttlestop, disabling Turbo Boost for the profile you will be using most, and getting comfortable with its usage, and setting it up to launch at user logon (using Task Scheduler) A repaste might also help, and the same goes for undervolting (either with TS or Intel XTU). Some people are also adding thermal pads to VRM's either to the chassis or to the heatsink (better) for avoiding VRM reaching 100's. This used to be more relevant to 9560/9550, and I am not sure of its benefits on the 9570. If you need help with TS, message me.
  
  I suggest setting these up on BIOS: "Force S3 sleep", F7 key for "no emissions mode", half brightness on battery and do a solid checkup of whatever you feel is better for you on the extensive optionned BIOS that Dell supplies. Once again, do not install 1.3.X+!
  
  ​
  
  3.
  
  I would advise on a USB 3.0 Type A hub with 3- 4 USB 3.0 Type A ports and Gbit LAN like this (I have this, but apparently it went away from all amazon stores since I bought it last month).
  
  Using this kind of dongle has 4 advantages vs dock and USB-C/TB3 dongles:
  
  
• does not take away the single USB-C/Thunderbolt 3 port
  
• doubles Type A ports from the original 2 (since you have to use one, a 3 USB hub effectively adds 2)
  
• has GBit LAN
  
• it's a lot cheaper and more portable than the TB3 swiss army-type dongles available everywhere, and you can always carry an extra TB3 to DP/mDP cable, if HDMI won't suit your display needs
  
  From extensive testing, my Anker hub's LAN port (and likely the new model I suggest) doesn't seem hampered by USB port usage as some report, nor does LAN usage degrades USB devices. I manage ~90mbps on LAN downloading Win 10 from MS servers while simulstaneously doing and external HDD file transfer at around 30mbps (almost the HDD cap for the type of data I was using). My network cap is 100'sh mbps to the WWW. I still suggest using the 3 ports on this for KB/Mouse and maybe a device that isn't constantly using high data, since you're already using this for LAN. Just use the other XPS USB port (or TB3) for higher performance stuff instead. I also had no shielding problems as many users reported for my model.
  
  If you're going for actual >1Gbps (10Gbit) performance on the LAN, I would rather suggest you look up dedicated high-performance TB3 LAN hardware such as this. But at present, that will certainly make you lose the TB3 port as there is no LAN solution with display options that performs as well as dedicated, single port LAN over TB3. But I'm sure if you need that kind of performance you wont care much for having to drive displays through HDMI and USB3 alone. Or you could buy an external PCI-E TB3 enclosure and add a PCI-E lan card for cheaper than the Sonnet I suggest.
  
  ​
  
  4.
  
  About WiFi: I got an Intel 8265 replacement after EXTENSIVE complaints to CS on why my bluetooth devices would degrade WiFi N router speeds to 1/3 or worse (and also made BT devices stutter), and my results, unfortunately, are that the Intel card has exactly the same issues. I blame either the XPS's antenna placement, metal build or bad shielding affecting the way it interacts with other 2.4ghz technoliges, because I haven't noticed this in my other WiFi N-bound laptops and smartphones on the same router/network.

So you won't be able to use super fast solid state drives due to the age of the machine, but there are some fast SSDs you can use nonetheless. I'll post links for 1TB drives, but if you don't plan on using over 512 or 256GB of storage, you can get smaller drives for a lower price

​

Samsung 860 Evo- Top of the line SSD, Samsung provides free software to clone your hard drive if you can access it from another computer

CrucialMX500- If you want to save like $13, go for this

Yes I did buy a PSU, works great and loving it.

Thermaltake Smart RGB 700W 80+ 256-Color RGB Fan ATX 12V 2.3 Kaby Lake Ready Power Supply 5 Yr Warranty Power Supply PS-SPR-0700NHFAWU-1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0754S3TXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a518BbVQV5RVP

I haven’t found a single thing wrong about it yet and would give it 5 stars

Have done exactly what you are asking.

I am typing this on the lowest end 9570 (refurbished Dell Outlet) with an upgraded SSD and 97whr battery.

These are the exact parts and where I got them:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EBK-6GTPY-Battery-Compatible-Dell-XPS-15-9560-9570-Precision-5520-M5520-Replacement-5XJ28-5041C-H5H20-5D91C-Laptop-6-Cell-11-4V-97Wh-12-Months-Warran/987434458

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079QH5KW1

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SBX6TY

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BGZEVHU

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You will have to take out the HDD to put in the bigger battery. You may also need to change BIOS settings to get the best SSD performance.

​

You will need a special screw driver to open the case, use the biggest one that will fit and remember rigthty tightly lefty lucey. :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QZLV03O

​

Look online for how to open the case. Don't forget the two Phillips in the middle under the magnetic plate.

​

Battery life is outstanding.

Older Thunderbolt 1 and 2 devices, such as those designed for Apple Mac products, would need an adapter to work with Thunderbolt 3, since Thunderbolt 1 and 2 used Mini DisplayPort (mDP) ports while Thunderbolt 3 switched to USB Type-C.

From slowest to fastest, you have:

• 480 Mbits/s: USB 2.0
  
• 5 Gbits/s: USB 3.0 (aka "USB 3.1 Gen 1", confusingly)
  
• 10 Gbits/s: USB 3.1 Gen 2 (aka true USB 3.1)
  
• 40 Gbits/s: Thunderbolt 3
  
  That's for speed. For the shape of the plug, you can either have USB Type-A (traditional USB shape) or Type-C (the new shape). There's not necessarily any connection between the shape of the plug and speed, though on the XPS 15 9550 the only Type-C port is a Thunderbolt 3 / USB 3.1 Gen 2 port, while the other Type-A ports are USB 3.0. The new MacBook and Chromebook Pixel have USB 3.1 Gen 1 (equivalent to USB 3.0 speed) Type-C ports, while many smartphones coming out with Type-C ports are still working at USB 2.0 speeds.
  
  USB 3.0 or above would be preferable, so that gigabit Ethernet is supported. You can get one that uses the Type-C port if you want, but it will still work at the same speed (USB 3.0) as the normal Type-A version. Adapters that take advantage of USB 3.1, much less Thunderbolt 3, are still rather rare. In any case, using Thunderbolt 3 just for Ethernet would be overkill: better to save the Thunderbolt 3 port for a full-scale dock or an external graphics card.
  
  So, enough background. Some options:
  
  
• AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter ($16.95)
  
• Anker Unibody Aluminum 3-Port USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet Hub ($26.99)
  
• Anker USB-C to 3-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Ethernet Adapter for USB Type-C Devices ($27.99)
  
  The two Anker devices also include a three port USB 3.0 hub, for connecting other stuff.

To give anyone an update who is also looking for it - I was unable to find the right part. What I needed was a 2.5 SATA to M.2 adapter, but with a specific form factor for this laptop. Something like [1] could work if I could squeeze in the cables, alas I don't think that's possible.

The model is still too new for any aftermarket parts so I guess I'll just have to wait. Alternatively, the M.2 SATA SSDs have gotten pretty cheap - I saw a WD Blue 500GB for $85 so I might just spring for that.

[1]: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FE8NKC2

https://noteb.com/?model/comp.php?conf0=413823259332671595_3322&conf1=9351985703524300800_2008&ex=USD&ref=starchaser

Comparing that model of the xps 15 vs the old blade they seem very comparable with the xps being cheaper due to student discount. I didnt fully follow the networking skimp outs of the xps you mentioned earlier but from above I'd give a slight edge to the xps 15. I also like the option to get a larger ssd on the xps and avoid the hybrid drive. Thoughts?

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Two other things I was considering. 1) Buying a cheaper xps 15 without dedicated graphics and purchase an eGPU holder with a gpu at a later date like black friday or something. I need a new laptop urgently but the gaming can wait. Although I am unsure how well eGPUs perform these days.

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2) A little pricey but https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Blade-15-Smallest-i7-8750H/dp/B07R1P4DQG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=Blade%2B15%2B2018%2BH2%2B15.6&qid=1565906737&refinements=p_89%3ARazer%2Cp_n_condition-type%3A6461716011%2Cp_36%3A15000-&s=pc&sr=1-1-fkmr0&th=1

Seems like an option to consider. Any further suggestions would be appreciated.

https://www.amazon.com/Zephyrus-Gaming-GeForce-Windows-GA502GU-PB73/dp/B07QQ9LZZK/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2EAVUL1XKW24V&keywords=ga502&qid=1557073860&s=electronics&sprefix=ga502%2Celectronics%2C149&sr=1-1

This is a good choice for $1100 if you need a thin & light gaming laptop. It has a model in Bestbuy with 120Hz display & 16GB RAM for $1200. It has 1660Ti Max Q which is better than GTX 1060.

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If you don't need a thin & light, new Helios 300 might be better:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QXLFLXT/?coliid=I2E9YAF2BLKLCO&colid=3JLBQ5NAGUA8K&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I'd recommend waiting for reviews.

This guy has a good review of various dongles, and he tests them . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZSnRjDRrvY He came up with this one as being an excellent one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQIATM8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A21KAAY3K2DV83&psc=1 My personal preference is a good powered hub vs a bunch of dongles.

If that's the actual configuration that ships, it's a pretty good deal! (approx $2140USD at current exchange rates)

​

I'd want to email them and find out what exactly is in the laptop (get the service tag, and run it yourself). They have three different specs listed.

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https://www.amazon.ca/Dell-XPS-9570-i9-8950HK-Anti-Reflective/dp/B07DP3PP94/ref=nav_signin?ie=UTF8&qid=1540340480&sr=8-4&keywords=xps+9570&

In the main listing, they have it as an i9/32Gb/2Tb/4K model.

If you look at the 'technical details' section on the left, it says i9/8Gb/2Tb/4K, but with a 56W/hr battery (not likely, as the 4K panels come standard with the 97W/Hr battery).

In 'product description' at the bottom, it's listed as an i9/32Gb/1Tb/4K model.

​

You'll want to make sure which you're receiving, and what (if any) warranty is on the unit. It's sold and fulfilled by Coryell Solutions, not Dell or Amazon, so your return rights or protections may be limited.

The IPS Inspiron 7567 display I think is on par with or very slightly better than the one in the Acer VX. Not all Inspiron 7567 models are IPS (most aren't, factoring all regions in), but the one I linked is.

The Acer has 16GB RAM, but I might still choose the IPS Dell 7567. The Dell gets better battery life and has less-flashy aesthetics. You can upgrade the Dell to 16GB with a $60 part then you're not much higher in price than the original Dell you were looking at.

There's also one of those models available as a refurb in the Dell Outlet. Look for the $769 one that says "IPS" for its display. GPU says 1050 but it's a 1050 Ti for any models that have either the SSD or the 7700HQ. That's a listing error. Then you should have plenty of budget room to upgrade to 16GB. (Furthermore you could grab a non-IPS model and DIY-upgrade the display with this, which is an even better display, but that may be more than you want to do.)

That will not work with an M keyed NVMe drive. Please see the description that states "Not compatible with M.2 NVMe or AHCI PCI-Express SSDs".

There are only a couple out there at the moment that support the M keyed NVMe drives that come in the XPS laptops and this one is the better unit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCPCMKN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Another psoter linked one on eBay that also supports M keyed NVMe.

don't know much about 8920 model because it will be delivered tomorrow, lol.

Why don't you get a usb port with a power adapter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VDVCQ84

i used this one for two years. working pretty well. charging all kinds of devices from the port like mouse, iphone and wireless earbuds.

I use the Dell Gaming 15 Backpack. The laptop fits perfectly and is protected well in the bag. It also has a built-in rain 'jacket' to keep the backpack dry in the rain.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Dell-50KD6-Gaming-Backpack-15/dp/B01N2UO3CW

Note that it will have to be an active HDMI 2.0 adapter. Passive adapters will not work. I'm using a combination of a cheap USB-C to Displayport dongle and the Plugable Displayport to HDMI 2.0 active adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8) to drive a 43" 4K Samsung at 4K60Hz from my XPS 9350, and it works beautifully. There are a couple of combined adapters now available as well, which adapt directly from USB-C to HDMI 2.0 and should do the trick, though I haven't used any of them myself. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Incompatible/dp/B01K51GM46

I bought this case for my XPS 15. So far I like it, fit is perfect.

I don't know if you have considered this, but instead of trying different RAM sticks that may not be supported in your G3, install HWInfo and check which RAM stick you already have. Then, buy the same brand and model. That might save you some bucks.

If not, I heard that Crucial is supported on the G-series. Check on Amazon. I have a G5, so I cannot confirm this

just search on amazon for b156han01.2

two that look decent to me are:

https://www.amazon.com/AU-OPTRONICS-B156HAN01-2-SUBSTITUTE-REPLACEMENT/dp/B00JMM89NC


and


https://www.amazon.com/PHILIPS-LP156WF4-SUBSTITUTE-REPLACEMENT-LP156WF4-SPD1/dp/B00JMM887E

None, did the upgrade december last year.

Crucial ram used.

More info:

Ram info

Ram SPD

Stock ram

> 8GB DDR4 2400MHz SODIMM

Will this work in dual channel?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BIWKP58/ref=psdc_172500_t2_B014R8JYDO

this one worked for me

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Portable-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00PC07T02/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511936038&sr=1-6&keywords=anker+ethernet+adapter

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KP8CGJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I bought this one for my 7590 that will be arriving next week (Hopefully).

Ehhhh. Ill just bite the bullet and get that but its slightly cheaper on Amazon. Ill update you if it works or not and if i never see you again, thanks. Wait this part is the same right? Ram EDIT: Maybe kinda big update I went into Task manager and looked at memory, and it says 2 out of 2 slots used. uh-oh