Best products from r/Diesel

/u/Kiwibaconator has it right, but allow me to expand on that. For both gasoline and diesel fueled engines, peak combustion temp and exhaust temp is right around 15.5 to 17:1 (lambda =~1.1); anything richer or leaner than this range becomes cooler.

As you may know, diesels generally run at 25:1 with a peak of 18:1 to 16.5:1 only during acceleration and the turbo has not produced full boost. But during steady state lug curve, generally runs at the ~28:1 (rated) to ~22:1 (peak torque) and 50 to 65:1 at idle. This steady state lug curve afr is well below the peak temperature of 15.5 to 17:1. The leaner side of afr is much cooler than the rich side of afr.
Why is lean afr cool? It is because the more excess air is available, the more the heat of combustion is spreadout among the mass of air. Think of the air as a tiny heat sink, the more Air to Fuel ratio, the more heat sink mass to energy input.

Gasoline will typically run on the rich side, from 15.5 to 14.5 afr. With modern 3-way cats and O2 sensors, the engine is designed to oscillate back and forth between 14.5 and 15 for catalyst chemistry reasons. Gasoline combustion temps are lower because of the much lower compression and boost, but the exhaust temps are still higher. Running extra rich (<14:1) also helps prevent predetonation by slowing down combustion with excess fuel and partial combustion products. Slowing down combustion with extra fuel also combines with the heat sink idea, except now the extra fuel is the heat sink, and the energy release is limited by the amount of oxygen available; so in a sense the extra fuel is not combusted thoroughly, which limits its energy release, but gets heated up a lot which helps dilute the heat and reduce the peak temperature.

Source:
Heywood
ME - engine design 10yrs (diesel)

I'm sorry to disagree with the other forum suggestion, but I personally think that Oilburners.net has the best knowledge base to learn from. Hundreds of tech articles and many active members that know their stuff. Give it a look.

As for the engine, it will likely need a fuel system refresh with the amount of miles it has. I recommend doing the injection pump and injectors at the same time. With that also comes the return line system, with these things done, it will become a new animal. This cost will range around 1k-1250 bucks if you do it yourself. A little over 600 for the pump, minimum, for a quality rebuild, and about 450 for injectors. It is a pretty simple job, just do your research if you intend to do it yourself.

It's fairly accepted that an injection pump has a typical life of about 100k miles, though some are known to run longer.

Also, go find yourself stanadyne fuel additive. Either lubricity or performance is fine, but pick one and run it in EVERY tank. These guys are the makers of the pump, and this additive is designed to keep it lubricated and happy.
here is what I use. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000M5QPSY?cache=3d44ea401507193c0b19f1da6f909236&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1413839175&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3
Which reminds me, I need to get some more ordered. You can also find the smaller bottles at many parts and farm stores, but the bulk jug is a much better deal.

I had this issue, and ultimately I went with OEM ones from Amazon, at like $70 shipped. I put nice headlight bulbs in it, and it works great and looks great. Here are the ones I bought, I have a 1999 ram.

I wanted the cool ones with the halos, but I decided functional was more important than appearance.

Driver and Passenger Headlights Headlamps with Corner Lamp Replacement for Dodge Pickup Truck 55076749AD 55076748AD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008G3KCHE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_V91lybAR1DRG6

The bulbs are some Philips 60% more than standard light output bulbs, they were in a reddish package I got at pep boys for $40.

My buddy went for aftermarket and they look like shit and don't produce nearly enough light. I'd buy these again if I had to, they are that good.

I also installed them myself and it was really easy, and I'm not experienced in stuff like that. Good luck!

Would something like this 6.0 Blue Spring Kit Upgrade be worth looking into to maintain high oil pressure? Is there more to it than just buying and installing the kit?

Are replacing the top seal, the location of the ICP & IPR sensors, and replacement of the HPOP all related or are those three unrelated statements? Sorry, I'm pretty ignorant, but I hope to become less ignorant eventually. Are these things I can accomplish in my driveway without access to a lift or crane? Thanks!

Got any good size channel locks you can get on it?

I had to put a screwdriver in the side and eventually went all the way through one time then turned. (This was on my ‘99.)

I bought this one not long after.

TEKTON 5866 12-Inch Oil Filter Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPR33O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_BJtMAb2G01VJ8

When you got a put one back on, just do it snug with anti-seize. Pretty hand tight is good. The heat will expand it and cause it to seize up.

Well, decided to go with a Powermax.

link

Thank you guys for ALL the help. I'm hoping I'll be happy with the purchase!

You recommend any online retailers? I'm looking at AC DELCO on Amazon but it looks like it needs flashed and flashing it looks like a $100 trip to the dealership. Is it easier to find a flashed one on Ebay for a higher price?

Admittedly I have had to buy a couple to find the exact ones, but its usually more of a hit than a miss. The ones that didn't work I re-gifted to friends to use in their own cars.

https://www.amazon.com/Foseal-%E3%80%90Improved-Version%E3%80%91-Scanner-Diagnostic/dp/B077F8F6TB/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2LT7WIDCC9WNW&keywords=obd2+bluetooth+adapter&qid=1558481600&s=gateway&sprefix=obd2+blue%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

This one SHOULD work for you. Its Amazon ( i feel differently about it than you though, I buy everything via Prime from them now...everything). The return policy is pretty good-ish. But it should read everything you want.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JYL2DJW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pretty sure that's the same filter. For a cummins right? I just ordered mine a couple months back. Works great.

Thanks guys!

I'm considering getting this inline filter (http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Universal-Inline-Glass-Filter/dp/B000MT94OM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) since it looks like i'll be able to connect it to the fittings that go into the stock housing.

The one thing I'm wondering is what's the best way to get the truck going again once I've plumbed this filter inline? I can't see how I won't have a air gap in there, since it's mounted horizontally.

Amazon FTW. It took me about 10 seconds to find this.

Fleetguard LF16035 Oil Filter for Dodge Ram Cummins Engines Diesel (2 Packs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ8WRW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-LvQCbKPZW38M

That’s a great price for two filters and you get Prime shipping.

Well that is a relief to hear. The truck was used as a farm truck previously, and the lower 3/4 of the engine bay is coated in mud. I have attempted to clean all the connections but it seems the passenger side battery has re-corroded on the positive terminal. Although it seems to drain the battery, it doesn't feel to be cranking (after charging) as fast as when i bought it . I will buy some permatex battery cleaner tomorrow and report back.

I mounted the one on my 7.3 in the drivers side of the bumper using one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NI38MG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I mixed and matched my words there a bit, I'm fully aware that most of the semi plug-in's are below the drivers door or just to the front of them. Seems like semantics to me at this point as the rest of my thoughts were pretty coherent. Thanks for the correction though.

On my personal vehicle i clean them with soap and water. Then i use either a powerball or a Cotton buffing pad with Mothers mag polish. Take your time and it will look amazing.

The anti-drainback valve is different from the filter (I think it's called a guide stalk) stem. This is the little black button that sits about 2 o'clock (ish) from the stalk in the bottom of the housing. The part I'm wanting to change is this https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-Anti-Drainback-Diesel-3C3Z6800A/dp/B00TKO1XG2 it looks like it simply pulls up out of the base but wanted to know if anyone had done it before I tried it. Thanks

If you use Delo 400 oil (which I recommend) there's some in that already. There's a German company called Lubromoly that's well thought of. They make a product called Liquimoly that is very well thought of. It's basically about 300ml of the stuff. Add it to the oil when the engine is still hot shortly after an oil change and drive it around. After a certain amount of miles it'll bake into all the scratches and such on the sliding surfaces.