Best products from r/Dodge

Well to be honest, a good set of rims is EXTREMELY hard to find. On my Ram I plan on restoring them (taking off rust, etc) and taking them to get powder-coated in the next few months. So taking your OEM rims to be powder coated may be a good option if you like them already. But if you really want to go with a different rim, consider if the rim would look good in a bronze. A rim like this: http://www.amazon.com/Touren-Black-Wheel-Machined-10x110mm/dp/B004IPPBT8/ref=sr_1_88?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1394858591&sr=1-88&keywords=dodge+dart+wheels. Which is semi-OEM but are completely custom otherwise and might not look good in bronze. And once something is powder-coated it can't easily be reversed. Especially these Touren wheels. So definitely take some time before making a large investment like a new set of rims or powder-coating your current ones. Point being, definitely take time on the rims. You will want it to suit the car, not just going for the "oh these look fine" rims and regretting it later. A good example of some bronze rims would be to look at the Subaru STI, they have a gold/bronze rim style with blue and most times it looks fantastic. However by repeating on your car you may get some hate for trying to repeat the look of a subaru. But all up to you on that. There's fantastic rims out there on amazon too, find a manufacturer you like and just browse through their selection. Sorry if this seems a little jumbled up, and it probably is a wall of text at this point but

TL;DR spend a long time finding rims you like. Or a long time thinking about having them professionally powder coated. It's a big investment that might even require an extra grand in tires as well. So make sure you like them. (Amazon also usually has good deals)

Fellow Texan here. Get some suction cups from Amazon and use those to secure the plate to your windshield, where it's clearly visible (about 4 inches up from dash so it's at least above the wiper blades)

I had a long chat with a cop once when I got pulled over for speeding (I had his attention so I made good use of the time, he was really friendly). Technically, the Supreme Court hasn't ruled on what constitutes the "front" of the vehicle. So for the time being, they can't ticket you for not having a plate on the front bumper. As long as the plate is clearly visible from in front of the vehicle, your good.

I've had my plate cupped to the windshield for over two yeas now and have been stopped multiple times for speeding (I know, I never learn) but have never once had my front plates placement in the windshield be an issue. Suction cup it in the windshield where it's clearly visible and you'll be totally cool.

Here's what I use:

http://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-78410-Suction-Clear/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410485443&sr=8-1&keywords=License+plate+suction+cups

They fit perfectly through the holes in the plate and they have really strong suction, your plate definitely won't fall off or move at all.

Go to the hardware section in Lowes, there will be an Automotive subsection, buy some black push-pins. I went with the Nissan push-pins, they have one bigass hook and once it's in there it's secure as fuck. The Chrysler push-pins work as well, they've got about a dozen little splines on them which hold it pretty securely. Use those to fill the holes left by the license plate frame.

All-in-all, you'll be looking really good for less then $10.

Adding in where I got everything for those interested:

This stuff is awesome! It's the RedLine Interior I used

Also, these, I went with the rear lights, reflectors and side lights and the darkest they had to go with my black/white motif.

Finally I got some sweet strobe vinyl decals on ebay and the classic challenger emblems for the sides.

Can't forget about the HellCat Intake Not sure if it adds much in terms of HP but it definitely gets the intake temp down on the freeway. You'll need this as well for it to connect to your headlight. FYI it's not very tight of a fit around the lip but I don't think it matters much. There's a few videos out there on how to install it, super easy, only took about 20 minutes. ( Note: you need a '15-'17 Challenger to do this)

Thanks for your help on this everyone. I sorted out the issue! The sensor is behind the lower grill (drivers side). I found the easiest wat to get at it was to remove the main grill and reach down. The senor is attached to the grill by a small clip that you can pull out by hand. With the clip in your hand, push down the red tab holding it in and remove the sensor. Even after pushing down the red tab I had to use a small flat-head screwdriver to push back the plastic tab holding the sensor in place. Once out, pop the new one in, push the red clip back up to secure the sensor and put everything back together. It's not hard to do folks. Even if you're not at driveway mechanic level, you can still do this. One note, I didn't actually think the new sensor was working but after leaving the car sit overnight I started her up and everything was good!

I've attached a photo and a couple links that may help people out in the future. Good luck!

1. Removing the 2012 grill: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIrGV7tW5tI
   
   
2. Part from Amazon I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TEQ4TC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
3. Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Location
   
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Short of rolling the car into the hardware store to scan, for best results I'd suggest...

https://www.amazon.com/Mopar-Lacquer-Touch-up-Paint-Metallic/dp/B07CH33FDS
Buy something like this. Spread some on a piece of primered scrap steel, have your local paint/hardware store scan that with their fancy color scan tool.

The resulting paint likely won't have the same veneer as the car, since most people don't clear-coat a house. Some metallic elements also might not show up as well, but the hue should be pretty close

Its a good looking color. Hope your paint project comes or looking just as good as the car.

Buy some Eibach lowering springs.

Pro kit = 1.6" drop, Sportline = 2" drop

The body roll on challengers is insane, it's honestly like an SUV. The lowering springs will dramatically reduce it. Some people will say it makes the ride harsh, not really. I've had mine for a few years and I greatly prefer it over the super soft, extra bouncy setup that comes stock. The new springs will make the car handle more like it should and greatly improve the look by closing up the massive wheel well gap.

http://www.autoanything.com/suspension-systems/Dodge/Challenger/111A50469A50471A0A23A784A1.aspx

If you really want to have great handling, get the front & rear sway bars as well.

http://www.autoanything.com/suspension-systems/73A5957A0A0.aspx

I definitely would recommend a resonator delete also. It'll give you a much louder, deeper, throatier sound befitting a muscle car. It won't be crazy loud, just more proper. It'll cost you about $200 at a muffler shop.

A Diablo sport tuner would also be a great investment! It'll unlock a few extra HP, greatly improving the shifting on an automatic transmission, as well as turn off MDS and skip shift.

http://www.speedlogixstore.com/product-p/i-1000-dcx.htm

On Amazon you can get an 392 SRT chin spoiler for about $100 dollar + $20 shipping, it won't do brake cooling unless you buy the SRT belly pan but you absolutely don't need the SRT belly pan to install the SRT 392 chin spoiler. I recommend the chin spoiler just because it gives the car a much more aggressive look.

http://www.amazon.com/2011-2013-Dodge-Challenger-Spoiler-GENUINE/dp/B00CUDFMXK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1411868948&sr=1-1&keywords=challenger+chin+spoiler

When parts shopping, I recommend Amazon & Speedlogix. They'll have everything you need, but if you do some googling you can usually find some things $10, $20 cheaper here & there at other websites.

Remember, if you buy an HID kit you will need new headlight housings for hose HIDs to work properly. Don't be one of those D-bags who buys HIDs and then puts them in Halogen housings and blinds everybody. You will be hated and, in some states, ticketed.

If you do go HID and buy new housings, go with the CCFL HID Halo housing. They look amazing with the blacked out option and come with CCFL halos similar to the ones on BMWs. It's also a much cheaper (and more tasteful) option for halos as opposed to Oracle which will cost you much, much more. With the oracle you'll need the kit, hid housing, plus install, and it gets expensive! With the CCFL housings it's all-inclusive and install is just 'plug &play'. Here you can get the CCFL halo housing + HID Kit and warning canceler for $390, it's a great deal! You wont find a better one.

http://www.protuninglab.com/hidxe08dochc.html

Other than that, a Cold Air Intake, a Oil Catch Can, and black chrome grille surround are all good mods as well.

UPDATE: Based on the info so far, I think I'll go with the route of buying a bumper and having a shop paint it for me.

Thanks to u/jwaterworth I found the location of my dad's paint code on the side of the door. Turns out the paint used on my dad's car is color coded PS2 which is Bright Silver Metallic. Found it on ebay and am thinking of purchasing it there.

Was also encouraged by u/Americantruck04 to find the bumper online. Tried CarID with no luck. However, I found one on Amazon that seems to match my dad's needs.

Still mulling it over if this is the best route to take but things are looking good so far, compared to how lost I was just a few hours ago. Thanks guys!

I just bought a new 13' manual R/T. I managed to talk them down a grand or two. But with you targeting a used R/T I think it will differ heavily on the person you are dealing with, and the condition of the car. Whether it be a dealership or private owner.

As for the shifter, I purchased this mopar brushed aluminum shifter. And I couldn't be happier with it. In my opinion its a lot more comfortable than the original, and it's quite easy to install. I can take some pictures of it if you'd like.

I would assume it would work with apple only. I have the Uconnect screen in my journey. The easiest way to ditch the aux cord would be to buy a USB bluetooth, plug bluetooth adapter into the USB port and plug the AUX cable into that or buy one of the FM adapters.

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Receiver-Streaming-Portable-Wireless/dp/B076QF7FLZ

or something like this https://www.amazon.com/SmartCharge-Transmitter-Bluetooth-Receiver-Charger/dp/B0719SNR5N

I personally used a USB bluetooth one with the aux cable in my old E90 BMW cuz that had a 12V port inside the center console so it was easier to just plug that crap in there where I'd never have to touch it and just use the bluetooth that way haha.

replacement strut tower tops

If I could afford it I'd try to find a newer Caravan. They're much much better, the 3.6 is an awesome motor and the later vans without leaf springs drive much better.

BESTEK 300Watt Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter Car Adapter DC 12V to AC 110V with 4.2A Dual Smart USB Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KQ4Q2L5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VvXWCb74HFNZZ
Pure sine is always the better option IMO. I ordered this one. It had great reviews online and it didn’t require a direct connection to my battery. There’s a power outlet in the cargo area so it’s perfect what I’m doing.

Mine just exploded like the guy above said.

I bought the whole assembly on Amazon for like $80. I bought the whole assembly because my motor also fried when the fan exploded.

The motor was more expensive than the assembly, fan blade was only like $30 on rockauto if you just need that.

Should be the same assembly for you, but double check. Also looks like I went up in price a bit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003S9I8OU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just buy one. The Emblem I mean.

Drop like a 345 or a 5.7/RT emblem under it and I think that would be pretty awesome.

Just my opinion but I think this is the best way to do halos on a challenger

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JBIA4RG/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2NDA56DEL9CP2

As far as I can tell this is your best bet. Watch the second reviews video to get a good idea of it's capabilities and proper install.

You used to be able to get a 'repair' part that would be riveted over top of the existing strut tower, to provide support.

Apparently it's a common issue and that was the fix early on.

Ya, I think yours is too far gone.

https://www.amazon.ca/Dorman-924-207-Strut-Tower-Repair/dp/B001NYTF6W