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This kind of change may be hard for him-especially having Addison's. I'm assuming leaving him with the grandmother during the workday isn't a viable option.

Considering this will be a big change for the guy, I would suggest looking into bringing him with you to work...maybe even switching off days? It never hurts to ask the boss; especially if your job(s) are desk-type jobs where having an old dog snoozin' in a crate during the day wouldn't pose an issue.

If it isn't possible for either of you to bring the pup to work, you may want to consider daycare options. There are some daycares that are capable of handling special cases like Scott; in my area there are even some folks who do daycare in their home with only 1-2 dogs at a time (great for the Scotts of the world).

The daycare I work for is small on purpose; we can manage the special-needs dogs more easily. For example, we have an old pup with Addison's. He does wonderfully at daycare, as long as the group isn't too high energy (like on days we have more puppies). If it's too much for the ol' guy to handle, he can retire to a crate for a nap, or just get scooped up and cuddled by the staff (his favorite thing ever). It's definitely pricey to do on a daily basis; some people drop off everyday, but most choose a couple days a week. Most daycares I've seen offer discounts for pre-paid packages and a few even offer discounts if your dog is of the more sedentary, elderly type. There's also the option of having a dog walker come in a couple times a day to check in and take him for a stroll.

Barring bringing him to work or daycare: I would start trying to switch up his routine (slowly) before you have to leave him. Transition him, instead of going from all-day-attention to all-day-alone overnight.

If your move will be over several days, bring him to the new house with you so he can get used to the new surroundings. Those time where you're just dropping off stuff and taking a breather is a good time to let him wander and check things out.

Meanwhile, set up this exercise-pen plan in the grandparent's home and start practicing alone-time there. He'll get used to the "change in scenery" while still in comfortable surroundings. Have him in the pen for a few minutes alone at first, then (slowly) work up to half an hour, 45 minutes, 50, 60 etc. If someone is home, this is a great chance for Scott to get used to being confined and separated, while having someone on hand that can intervene should any issues arise. Just set him up in a dining room whilst the dishes are being done, then let him out. Pen-time while cleaning happens, or while taking a shower. Have a tv schedule to follow? Pen him during the first few minutes, let him out during commercial and hang out watching the program until the next commercial cycle starts. Repeat process. Timing it to a show/commercial cycle seems to be easiest for most of my clients. Mix up the amount of time he's in there, starting off with very short increments, so he doesn't feel abandoned! Just like crate training, with a larger space. r/dogtraining has more resources on that.

You mentioned he doesn't like toys and isn't food-motivated. What does he like, aside from people? Burying his head in the blankets? Chewing on fleece? Licking the carpet? Rolling around in pine needles? Try to find those things he does love, and replicate them for his pending alone-time. If you have a dog that loves to snuggle or burrow, getting a bed like this can help replicate that cozy-safe-warm environment. You could also leave lots of fleece blankets around in different piles (with treats buried in them!) for some fun exploration. For dogs that like to flop in things, I've had a lot of luck with making tactile boxes - basically buy a regular cat litter box, fill it with fun things. If you can trust him with soft toys, fill the box with it. Throw in some fleece scraps, maybe a couple of rubber chew things and a tennis ball or two. Bury treats in the bottom (really great smelling treats!).

Some dogs will go nuts pulling everything out of the box and playing with it all, some will sort through it and play with certain toys. I've seen dogs nest in the box over sleeping in a bed, dogs dig through it solely for the treats at the bottom, and my favorite-dogs pulling certain things out, then flopping about the box like the would grass after a rain.

Last two thoughts: make sure you have PLENTY of water available to him (when dogs are stressed, they tend to drink more water), and if you don't already, feed using a puzzle toy/puzzle feeder/interactive feeder instead of regular bowl. You may have to show him how it's done at first. It's a great way to feed pups slowly, and keep them physically and mentally engaged.

edit If it helps, I'm a dog trainer with neurotic beasties and have moved, a lot. They always adapt,and the more you do to prepare them the easier it is. You just need to give it time and patience.Stinky treats never hurt.

Yes, there is a ton of information.

Short answer: Read Dog Food Logic: Making Smart Decisions for Your Dog in an Age of Too Many Choices - it's the best resource I have ever come across for making dog food decisions.

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Longer answer:

Here are some snippets from an article by The Whole Dog Journal (a magazine that promotes many "holistic" brands of food and treatments).

> Hill’s employs more than 150 veterinarians, nutritionists, and food scientists to collaborate on its pet food product development and research...

> Our tour guide of the Hill’s Pet Nutrition Center was Scott Mickelsen, DVM, a Diplomate of the American College of Laboratory Animal Medicine, and Manager of Pet Nutrition Resources for this campus (meaning he manages the animal colony). Four hundred and two dogs and 485 cats were reported to be living on the Hill’s PNC campus on the day of our tour – all of them kept according to the conditions laid out in Hill’s animal welfare policy (excerpted below and available in its entirety at tinyurl.com/hillspolicy).

>The buildings that house the animals are all connected, with a total of 80,000 square feet of housing and treatment rooms, as well as kitchens and food preparation rooms. A 3,000 square foot veterinary hospital, where prophylactic care and urgent care (if needed) is provided, features everything you’d see in any modern veterinary hospital, including surgical suites and xray and ultrasound rooms. There are multiple rooms containing laboratory analysis equipment for blood and urine tests.

And Proctor & Gamble (Iams, Eukanuba, among others)

> Finally, we got back into cars and drove for a little under an hour to the PHNC. The 250-acre site where the research animals are kept is tucked behind a P&G extrusion (dry pet food) manufacturing plant. The facility has capacity for roughly 350 dogs and 350 cats.

> I was genuinely impressed with the thought and care taken with the housing for the animals. The indoor runs for the dogs are climate-controlled. When staff members noticed that a number of the long-term canine residents had neck or shoulder pain, P&G started researching dog doors that would swing open in such a way that the dogs didn’t have to muscle the doors aside with their necks or use a strained posture to pass through; they finally settled on doors that are split vertically down the center, like saloon doors in old Western movies. Dogs essentially pass straight through these doors, and the incidence of neck injuries dropped.

And lastly, most of the other "boutique" or "holistic" brands:

> There are a few other large pet food companies that conduct research on this sort of scale – Purina and Royal Canin, for example – but it has to be noted that few, if any, of the manufacturers of the foods on WDJ’s “approved foods” lists invest this much in either feeding trials or nutritional research.

(all emphasis mine)

Hill's has been around since 1939 and has been at the forefront of dog nutrition research since then. P&G, Purina, Royal Canin and the like all have similarly sized research facilities - they no longer have to farm out the work to third-party laboratories that may not take such good care of their dogs. Most if not all, have huge teams of veterinary nutritionists working for them. These are full-fledged vets that went on to completed dedicated nutrition education & research.

To compare, Merrick employs one (1) animal nutritionist. Champion Pet Foods (Orijen/Acana) employs two veterinary consultants and one animal nutritionist (MSc). WellPet (Wellness, Eagle Pack, & Holistic Select) employs one PhD animal nutritionist and two veterinarians. They certainly have the education necessary to formulate foods, but they have no where even remotely close to the study and research capabilities of the "big" companies.

The World Small Animal Veterinary Association (WSAVA) is an association of associations. Its membership is made up of veterinary organisations from all over the world, which are concerned with companion animals. Currently there are 92 member and affiliate associations, representing over 145,000 individual veterinarians from around the globe.

The WSAVA has this great pamplet about researching dog food on the internet.

But seriously, read Dog Food Logic: Making Smart Decisions for Your Dog in an Age of Too Many Choices.

Edit: I will add that both Orijen and Acana adult foods have been through AAFCO feeding trials and so have more weight behind their product. Innova and Evo both have a couple foods that have been through feeding trials. Nature's Variety has a couple too. Blue Buffalo, Merrick, Wellness and many others have no foods that have been through feeding trials. And while AAFCO feeding trials can't account for everything and definitely could be better, that doesn't mean they're useless and shouldn't be a consideration.

And you can read an excerpt of Dog Food Logic over at The Bark magazine.

So, I don't care for detangling spray. It builds up in the coat and can become sticky.

Next is your brush has to change. You need a pin brush with no heads.

Something like this

I use that exact brush on my afghans and on myself. Its pricey on Amazon. You can get pin brushes at good prices at dog shows.

Then you need a wide toothed metal comb. The ones with a wider end and a finer end work. Only use the wider end. The finer end is just to fine for most coats. It makes a reasonable handle. You can also find wider toothed ones with handles.

And you need an undercoat rake. Simple and cheap. Don't waste your time on furmanator and stuff. Also, don't get the ones that look like blades.

Next your shampoo and conditioner. I use human stuff on my show dogs. They have no allergies. Pantene and Herbal Essence silky formulas have worked well for me.

Always shampoo and condition a dog with coat. You can get dog shampoos if that makes you more comfortable. Or you can use mane and tail which is a pretty comfortable balance. Conditioner will save you tons of work as it helps sticks, dirt, and loose hair leave the coat instead of staying.

Next. Never rub dry. Pat dry. Blot. Squeeze the hair. Wrap the dog. Don't rub. You make mats that way.

If you want to get your own dryer there are plenty of dog dryers. I have an Oyster stand dryer. You can use a hair dryer as well yo work out a lot of excess moisture.

When grooming, start from the bottom and work up. Start from the bottom of the foot and work up the leg. Seperate the hair, and work from the skin out. Then go to the layer above it. Part to the skin and groom that hair smooth and work up.

If you are serious about keeping her in a full coat, do yourself a favor and get a grooming table. Its more comfortable for her and you.

The last bit is a personal choice but its adding an oil to her diet. It will help her coat in general. I used olive oil since the 90s. Now coconut oil is popular. As well as fish oils. Just a table spoon on their dinner. I always got the big jars from Sams Club Makes a world of difference to the coat and shedding.

Is she spayed yet? Altered dogs tend to revert to puppy coat. It tends to be softer and a bit more prone to work than adult coats.

I groomed weekly for show dogs, bi monthly for dogs that were not showing. Same bath schedule. I always let my dogs play and be dogs even when showing. Its all doable. You will gain the skills.

Obligatory Afghan hound with the wind blowing.

Grooming is a lot of work. I'm down to my last afghan hound and I am going to take a break from all that hair after she passes away. The doberman are much easier but they get cold so quickly too.

I haven't tried this one personally, but it has a hole for hiding treats and is supposedly tougher than a black kong: http://www.indestructibledog.com/collections/interactive-toys/products/tux

I've also heard antlers and himalayan chews last longer than rawhides, bones, and bullysticks for the super powerful chewdogs.

If he likes to herd/chase and isn't big enough to get his mouth all the way around it, jolly eggs are fun. They're smooth and egg-shaped so every time the dog tries to pounce or bite, it "escapes" and begs to be chased.

Sometimes big treat balls like this work after the dog learns how to get the treats out. Not that the dog couldn't chew it open if he wanted to, just that it's more effective and fun to push it around to get the treats. It would require supervision until the dog gets the hang of it though.

All Natural, Whole Cow Ears for Dogs by Brutus & Barnaby, Harvested from Free Range, No Hormone's Added, Grass Fed Cattle, USDA/FDA Approved https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C3A124W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_an9IAb6SDDBKR

My pup loves these! There was a bigger bag that was a better value but it doesn't seem to be available. Bully sticks are another good option but they are pricey as well. Pig ears are a cheaper way to go, but they have a much higher fat content so they should only be used sparingly, and can cause upset tummies sometimes.

Also, lots of varieties available of these, but they're mostly grains......Nylabone Healthy Edibles Natural Salmon Dog Treats, Medium, 2 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0123LGDWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pr9IAb34B6ZXN

And my pup likes these too
Nylabone Power Chew DuraChew Femur Bone Rawhide Alternative Dog Chew Toy, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H507HUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9s9IAb1RKRBF6

Good luck with your little monster!

E: I just reread your post and realized he's a big "monster"! So probably giant bully sticks and frozen Kongs.
KONG Extreme Dog Toy, X-Large, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DHNZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ax9IAbMZ6X3RS
Frozen peanut butter keeps my guy busy the longest, but wet food works great too. I also use up my overripe bananas in them too. I haven't used bully sticks very much yet because of the price, but the few I've gotten lasted a little bit longer than most other chews, so like 6 minutes instead of 4, lol. But I don't know enough to make a recommendation there.

You have allergies and got a corgi? You really can't over bathe these dogs - it is really bad for their skin and coat. I hope you spent some time with the parent dogs to determine if your allergies are manageable with these dogs without constant baths. These pups shed CLOUDS - a high quality diet (Raw or high quality kibble) can do a lot to minimize shedding, but they are still going to shed more than you would hope any dog to. Over bathing can dry out skin and, thus, cause MORE dander. You should really be comfortable with the dog without baths or this could be a 10-15 year struggle.

I would encourage you not to use pads. If your vet has advised you against taking your puppy outside because of high risk of parvo in your area, then I would switch to sod boxes instead of pads. Puppy pads look like a lot of other things in your house, and spending this critical imprint time with pads can just cause a LOT of confusion for your puppy once you start taking them outside. Sod boxes will help them develop a grass preference for potty time and make it much easier to transition them outside when the time comes (as they are already used to seeking out and using grass). There is also unlikely to be grass in your apartment that could be confused as a bathroom - rugs look a lot like potty pads and it is common for puppies to completely regress once you try to make the switch outside because of this.

The grass will also likely help with the cleanliness issue, but otherwise keep your puppy on leash and lead them FORWARD away from their messes, don't let them backtrack. Your pup should be on leash in the house at this age, anyway, to make it easier to redirect them away from undesired areas or to quickly get them outside/to their sod area if they start to have an accident elsewhere. If your puppy is getting poo on her belly, she must be having really soft stools which is something you may want to be considerate of (could be nerves from the move, could be the food you are feeding her - a small amount of 100% pumpkin puree - NOT pie filling - will help firm up stools).

Prevent it as much as you can - otherwise spot clean as necessary with pet wipes.

I follow the recipes in this book. The first time through it's a lot of work, but it gets much easier. I make it in bulk and freeze. I have a chest freezer that holds a few hundred pounds. Lasts me a couple of months. I have three medium sized dogs. I would say it's not too late for your dog. It's never too late to start eating a fresh diet, but I would take the transition more slowly. I feed what is called a BARF diet, biologically appropriate raw food. Others feed the PREY model. Two different schools of thought, but not so different. Only it can be like the Hatfields and McCoys between the groups. Find what you're most comfortable with. My vet only recommends a BARF diet. You can start by adding a small amount of real food to his current food. Any little bit helps. Last night I made hamburgers and saved a little of the meat for my dogs as a treat. As you're cooking save trimmings for the dog. The cut off ends of veggies, etc.

I switched to raw food for my dog some years ago, though for general health and not because of allergies. We've had great results, and we don't have to worry about crap ingredients, additives, etc.

If you're interested in trying this, check out Carina Beth Maconald's excellent book, Raw Dog Food: Make It Easy for You and Your Dog I think that book is the single best resource on the topic, and makes it all really easy.

/r/rawpetfood might also be of interest.

I highly recommend you get a dog water bottle. You can attach it to your belt or hold it while you run if your dog won't have a reliable source of water on your runs. I have an older husky Shepherd, body and fur of a Shepherd, live in Texas. Even at 80 degrees with sunlight she stops to take water from me two or three times over a 40 minute walk. Though of course every dog will be different so if he's fine awesome but be prepared for your first few times. Especially if your weather like mine hits 100+ as the summer goes on.

This is the one I use Highwave AutoDogMug, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YNK9VPI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Otherwise just make sure if you are on pavement that it's not to hot for your dog. Easy measurement is put the back of your hand down. If you can hd it there for 5-10 seconds it's probably safe otherwise wait for it to cooldown or find some of that wax stuff to put on their paws. Though this might be a double edged sword as I think it might block sweating which won't be good on a run.

My pup goes crazy for ice cubes! I also give him carrots as well as oven dehydrated sweet potato slices in his kong -- at first he wasn't too keen on carrots, but having to work for them changed his mind.

These limited ingredient treats fit perfectly in the medium puppy kong, and they've been good on my pup's tummy. I've bought the 16 oz bag for $6 + free shipping before.

Are people really acting like OP is a terrible owner for not wanting to feed the dog on the carpet? There are so many things that make someone a bad pet owner but this just isn't one of them. It's completely understandable to avoid making a mess where it's hard to clean. I don't let my dog eat on the carpet, but that doesn't mean I lose my mind if he tracks mud in or has an accident. Can we try to be a little more understanding, please?

The only thing I know of that could help if the dogs have access to food all the time is a bowl like this that only opens when a pet wearing the tag goes to it. I think someone mentioned it before, but I thought a link might help. I hope you're able to find a good solution!

The simplest way is to take her to a professional groomer and have them do it while you watch. You can ask them for advice while they're doing it. Also just my personal preference but I like using a grinder instead of clippers on my dog. This is the one I use https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IPW47BW/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's wireless and rechargeable. The head is diamond encrusted so it should last for years. Plus it's quiet. I find grinders are safer to use than clippers.

I am a pet sitter and have a client with four small dogs, two are escape artists. After a couple of panic attacks when they escaped their harness I bought a couple of these escape resistant harness leads and my escape artists were no more. Two years later and I can walk these pups confident that they can't escape anymore. It takes a few minutes to figure out how to put the harness on, but once you figure it out, it's very easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Harness-Lead-Comfortable-Resistant-Reduces/dp/B07ND5R4C5