(Part 2) Best products from r/Dogtraining

The dog's ability to cope with stresses, deal with new/unexpected things, and interact with new strangers/dogs as an adult depends on two primary things: genetics and socialization. There are some dogs that naturally tend toward the anxious, reactive, suspicious end of the spectrum. There are others that naturally tend toward the stable, friendly, unshakable end of the spectrum. Every dog should be socialized to make the best of the genetic foundation you start with.

Socialization is more than just exposure. Your puppy class may have even done more harm than good, if he spent the whole class afraid and overwhelmed every week. Socialization should be about exposing the dog/puppy to new things at controlled, manageable levels (so maybe starting at a distance or at a low volume, or starting with a single very calm decoy dog or single very calm dog-savvy adult that totally ignores your pup) and making the experience positive and fun, so he enjoys it. Work at the level the dog is okay with. It's also about setting up and helping him overcome little challenges, letting him "win" the situation to build confidence. It's okay for him to be a little nervous at first sometimes, but the situation should feel safe enough and be positive and rewarding enough that he recovers and wiggles within a few minutes. If he spends the entire time he's exposed to the new person/dog/whatever feeling afraid, that can simply teach him that that sort of person/dog/whatever is something to fear.

• Patricia McConnell article (PDF) on how fear begins in puppies
  
• Paws4u post about genetics + experiences contributing to fear
  
• The Cautious Canine (McConnell) (pamphlet on fearful/anxious dogs)
  
• http://fearfuldogs.com
  
  A starting high level plan at this point would be:
  
  
• set him up to feel safe. Crate train, if you haven't yet, to give him a safe spot to hide and relax. If he doesn't yet love his crate, take the door off and only use it as a spot for fun, safe things. Feed him there, hide treats for him there when he's not looking, put the most comfortable dog bed there, cover it so it feels more secure, and position it in a place where he will like to use it as a bed. Other things that might help him feel safe include using Dog Appeasing Pheromone sprays/collars and playing white noise like static and fans to minimize how often he's startled by noises. When he's in his "safe spot" (crate), there are no strangers, nothing new/scary is presented, nothing scary happens. Helping him feel safe in at least one context, so he can retreat there if he's overwhelmed, is a step people tend to forget but it's really really important. Work on a mat settle if you need a more portable safe spot in addition to your crate. Fired Up, Frantic, and Freaked Out does a good job of explaining how to do that.
  
• Countercondition and desensitize any of his fears to whatever degree you can. If you're working on fear of noises, stick with lower level noises like youtube videos of fire alarms on very low barely audible volumes. Follow each with something fun or exciting that makes him wiggle. You say he's not terribly food-motivated, but something gets him excited when he feels safe at home (toys/play maybe?)--use whatever that is, and keep the noise level very very low until you see a solid conditioned emotional response (he wiggles automatically when he hears the noise). If you decide food is still the best option, using high value food like lean chicken, liver, low-fat hot dogs, and low-fat cheese will work better than anything crunchy or most commercially available dog treats. If money is tight, tubs of raw chicken liver (fry or bake, then cut into tiny little bits before using) will be the best bang for your buck because they're cheap and highly palatable for even the pickiest dogs. Remember to decrease how much he's fed to make up for the added calories, and/or feed all of his food by hand for training exercises. You can also cc/d him to being handled, which sounds like a good idea given that he doesn't even like you touching him much. His life as a dog will be less stressful overall if he enjoys or at least isn't afraid of being touched. one example of counterconditioning paw touches. a kikopup example with collar reaches/touches/grabs
  
• Get him on board with willing husbandry behaviors. Teaching him a nose touch is a good start, because it lets you guide his head willingly with no physical force, by asking him to willingly nose your hand. That's also an easy way for him to control distance and initiate a positive interaction, and is a behavior he can (eventually) practice with other people too to become acquainted. When he can touch with his nose, work on a paw target too--that's a nice lead in to paw handling, because it lets him initiate the paw touching on his own.
  
• Look into BAT 2.0 and other methods that give the dog as much space and time as he needs to acclimate to someone/something new. Treat and Retreat is another good and easy technique, especially good for meeting new people. He's not going to "get used to" socializing by being forced into it; that can actually make things worse. Methods that give him space and time and let him learn to make decisions will help more than anything else.
  
• Talk to your vet about meds. If your dog is fearful and anxious all the time like you describe, you should at least make yourself aware of pharmaceutical options. That won't take the place of training and isn't a permanent solution, just helps training go more smoothly in some cases.
  
• Rethink socialization, as noted above. Whatever additional socialization you do with him as an adult should give him as much time and space as he wants, never forcing/encouraging him closer to new things than he's comfortable with, and focus heavily on the experiences being positive, easy, and having him walk away feeling good and confident about whatever he was being exposed to.
  
• Look up some trainers in your area. I know money is tight, but just be aware of the good trainer options near you in case you need them later, or your money situation changes, or you decide to allocate some of the medical fund for behavioral issues, or whatever about your situation changes. How to find a trainer. Some of my advice and references did mention using food, but it's generic advice. Food is a reinforcer for any living thing that eats, it's just a matter of how it's used and how excited the dog gets about it compared with current stresses. If a dog normally takes treats (say, will eat chicken off of the floor at home when there are no strangers or loud noises present) but can't take treats from a stranger, then that tells you more about the stranger being too overwhelming than the treats not being reinforcing. Even if he's less excited about food than average, having a non-food-motivated dog does not make him un-trainable by any measure, if you choose a good trainer--the trainer would need to work with you in person to identify what reinforcers do work for him in place of food.
  
  edits: clarity/wording, fixing scatterbrained thoughts.

Virtually any dog in the universe can fit the criteria of what you described, but all breeds have their little variations.

For example, my favorite breed is the German Shepherd. And there are German Shepherds that do really well in apartment life, and others that don't. If you go to a breeder for your dog, you're going to want to find a breeder that emphasizes pet quality, safe, sane dogs. The difference between a Labrador from hunting lines and lines bred for therapy and service dog work is night and day. If you go to a shelter to adopt a dog, I would recommend taking a qualified trainer with you that's well-read on selection testing dogs, and most of all, use the resources at your disposal. Talk to the people who run the shelter and/or the rescue. They have the most experience with the dog. They will be able to help you the best.

With the two breeds you mentioned (Golden Retrievers, specifically) keep in mind the shedding issue. Labs shed too, but Golden's are just about as bad as Shepherd's (which are both, very bad.) If you have carpet, be prepared to vacuum everyday. If you intend to let your dog sleep with you on the bed, or chill on the sofa, be ready to clean your furniture daily. Your clothes will be covered in hair if you do not. Your boss will not like you showing up to work wearing your dog.

Also, please, if you haven't already, look into your apartments restrictions for pets and dog breeds, and keep in mind that if you intend on moving, you will be taking your dog with you. I love all breeds of dogs, but apartments do not. Rottweilers, German Shepherd's, Doberman's, Pitbulls (and mixes) come under notorious scrutiny when moving. For your future dogs sake, pick a breed or mixed breed that your landlords are cool with.


Some of my favorite books include:
Dog Training for Dummies which is a very basic introduction to how dogs learn, and explains the different methods available to you in an unbiased manner.

Some of my personal favorite books include:
How To Be Your Dogs Best Friend by the Monks of New Skete.
The Art of Raising A Puppy by the Monks of New Skete
The Divine Canine by the Monks of New Skete

If you haven't already guessed, I'm a huge fan of the Monks of New Skete. The put huge emphasis on calm, structured leadership and positive method obedience that works in real life situations. Plus, they're German Shepherd people. Double points.

Animals in Translation by Temple Grandin.

Dr. Temple Grandin is a high-functioning autistic that teaches at Colorado State University's veterinary science department. I've taken several classes with her, and her understanding of animals is absolutely impossible to challenge. This book is more about genetic theory and science-backed training methods. It's good reading material if you want to know more about animals (she discusses dogs and livestock in detail) but is not a training guide. She also has a lot of technical articles available on her website here.

Inside of a Dog by Alexandra Harowitz. This is a cursory introduction to canine ethology. It is not a guide, but if you want to know about how dogs think (how dogs can "smell time" for example) this is where you start.

How to Speak Dog by Stanley Coren emphasizes communication with dogs, backed in animal biology and evolution.

Canine Body Language: A photographic guide by Brenda Aloff describes in vivid detail what dogs are "saying." It's not a training guide, but will help you understand your dog much better.

Katz on Dogs by Jon Katz, a great common sense training guide to working with dogs in the home, and outdoors.
Soul of a Dog also by Jon Katz, which goes into greater detail on the personal side of working with dogs, with very helpful examples.

Imagine Life With a Well Behaved Dog by Julie Bjelland. Great book on structure and positive method dog training.

Natural Health for Dogs and Cats by Dr. Pitcairn was one of my college textbooks and it's a great start for dog nutrition and chemical-free health care for dogs. This is not a training guide, but nutrition and health are just as important (if not more) than training, so I figured I'd share.


With the exception of the first book on the list, all of these books are fairly detailed. I would highly recommend the Monks of New Skete books before any of the others. But they're all very good.

Additionally, you can read many of the articles on the AKC.org website regarding dog training, and Leerburg has some great comprehensive advice on training the working dog, which can also be applied to training family pets. He also sells a variety of videos and ebooks on the same subject matter.

TL;DR How To Be Your Dogs Best Friend & The Art of Raising A Puppy explain everything you ever need to know about training a dog, ever.

I'm not entirely sure why the cooing at toys would work. I feel like this is just anthropomorphizing the toy and your dog's "understanding" of the situation. If it is actually working for you, it's probably the fact that you are taking away the toy from her, letting her settle, and then returning it when her energy level/fixation are more in check. The "gentle" cue is definitely nice to teach, but it is probably working due to your addition/subtraction of reinforcer. That being said, "gentle" is a tough thing to teach some high energy dogs so props to you.

Also, the exercise thing is a great point. If you exhaust your pup with a good run or hour at the park they will be far less destructive in the house. Physical stimulation and mental stimulation need to go hand in hand, and one should not replace the other.

Just a point to bring up: if your (OP's) dog is chewing things like wires, socks, etc. he probably has a lot of opportunity to do so. How are you managing his environment - supervision levels, puppy-proofing, movement throughout the house, restriction when unsupervised (crating), etc? You need to minimize or eliminate as many possibilities for your dog to "mess up" as possible and set them up for success. For example, make sure he is in "puppy proofed" rooms with all foreign objects picked up off the floor and is provided with appropriate outlets for his energy (Kongs, stuffed bones, etc). A six month old puppy probably should not have free run of the house just yet, especially since he is most likely still teething and is still learning appropriate outlets for chewing. Slowly increase his freedom once he has learned these things. Start by keeping him in one or two rooms, gated off, and slowly increase his freedom once he learns more appropriate behaviors and has matured a bit more. Am I suggesting condemning your dog to a room for life? Absolutely not. You just have to manage his environment as much as possible and eliminate possibilities for him to fail.

It would also be worth investing in some brain toys to drain more energy, such as Wobble Kongs, Busy Buddy feeders, Buster Food Cubes, etc. In fact, feeding his meals exclusively out of these toys rather than a bowl would be a great opportunity to mentally stimulate him and drain more energy. Just make sure you supervise him as some of these toys could definitely be torn up if left unattended.

Just some food for thought. Hope you found this helpful! :)

Edit: Some products I've found helpful.

Brain toys for feeding:

• Kong Wobbler for meal times. Pretty durable and my guy can't figure out how to open it. Loves eating out of this thing, even if it was simple for him to figure out. My lab took weeks to get it though. Regardless, great brain-toy.
  
  
• Buster food cube for dispensing. Pretty difficult to figure out.
  
  
• Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble egg: My guys LOVE this, although the plastic just cracked on the inside after a few months. Can definitely be torn apart if left alone but super stimulating and engaging. Worth it!
  
  
• Tug a Jug for keeping them busy when you need to do something else. Durable bottle that gets scratched up. Ours is a few months in and still kicking.
  
  Chew toys:
  
  
• Kong XL for stuffing with RB, wet food, boiled chicken, etc. Strong than the regular red Kongs. Can also be frozen which increases the difficulty and time needed to get the food inside. have several I rotate out and they are basically the same shape as the day I bought them, which is impressive as my pup is a monster chewer.
  
  
• Filled thigh bones are pretty nice. They last as a while and can be rinsed and restuffed if the bone is still in good shape. Watch out, though - some brands are more prone to cracking and splintering while others last for ever. Trial and error basis. I can't remember the brand I use that works well but it's carried at my local Farmer Supply store (I find the bones and toys at these places to generally be better quality and also cheaper than chain pet stores).
  
  
• Meaty thigh bones are marrow filled and still have some "meat" on the exterior. They tend to last longer than the washed filled variety (above) and are "stinkier" and (I would imagine?) tastier. My guys prefer these to the plain bones since there are more goodies to get at. Downside is that they are a little stinkier at first and can possibly leave a mess, so make sure the dog is eating it on a towel.
  
  
• Bully sticks! Make sure they are real beef tendons though. Many companies make pressed rawhide varieties to resemble the real tendons but rawhide is, IMO, less safe for dogs. Last a while and smell like bacon but made my stomach a little queasy. Dogs go nuts for them though.
  
  
• Jolly Ball - not necessarily a chew toy but lasts a long time. Their teeth can penetrate the ball but the design is such that the ball doesn't pop. I had the variety with the rope that went through the center. The rope came off pretty quickly but the ball itself is still kicking. It is challenging to pick it up when playing fetch so he is less interested in tearing it to pieces than retrieving. It's poked through with holes but is the only ball that has lasted this long. Still going. Maybe worth checking out.

Oh Lordy I have a ton...I'll try to categorize them...

Best for Puppies
These are all easy toys that dispense a lot of kibble with very little movement. Perfect for baby puppies or really low-confidence dogs. These can also be upgraded in difficulty later by stuffing them with wet food and freezing, or stuffing with a large, hard to extract treat (like a slice of lunchmeat).

• PetSafe Busy Buddy Twist 'n Treat...total pain in the ass to fill if you put more than half a cup of food in it, but it's a great "intro to puzzle toys" for a dog that has never had to work for food before. Also very easy to clean.
  
• Soda Pup Coffee Cup...representative of a whole genre of "rubber toys with large holes" that make great easy kibble toys or challenging stuff and freeze toys. Some other toys in this genre are the Kong and the West Paw Toppl. I like the Soda Pup ones best because they have higher capacity and a flat bottom.
  
• Planet Dog Orbee Tuff Snoop...pretty easy by itself with kibble, can be made more challenging by stuffing a Mazee ball in the large hole.
  
• Plastic Milk Jug...or a water bottle, raid your recycling bin. You'll have to supervise to make sure your puppy doesn't shred and eat the jug, but it's a relatively easy and fun (and free) enrichment item. Another puzzle toy you may find in your recycling bin is a cardboard box filled with paper balls. Sprinkle some treats in the box, fill with the balls, and let your dog forage around in your DIY ball pit.
  
  Easy Rollers
  These basically just dispense kibble by rolling. Not particularly complex, but good for the dog that prefers to solve puzzles by brute force.
  
  
• IQ Treat Ball...this toy takes the longest to empty out of all my toys, but it is way too freaking small and loud as hell on my hardwood at 6am. Really easy to fill and clean though, as it comes completely apart.
  
• Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball...a lot quieter but it empties faster and isn't as easy to fill (or clean).
  
• Kruuse Buster Cube...this one is also ungodly loud, but it takes a good while to empty despite the fairly consistent payoff per roll. It's a cube (but they also make a spherical one) and the insides have a few baffles to keep kibble from just falling out.
  
  Wobblers
  These require a more finessed rolling motion to empty, so they're the next step up from just batting a toy around.
  
  
• PetSafe Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble...more of a wobbler/roller hybrid. Surprisingly time-consuming for how huge the holes are, and it gets an A+ for filling and cleaning. Unfortunately my GSD knows how to unscrew it, so it's not much of a challenge for him.
  
• Starmark Bob-A-Lot...lots of ways to adjust the difficulty on this one, which is nice. I had a foster chew the yellow piece off of mine, but it still works well.
  
• Kong Wobbler...pretty standard toy, I actually do not have one of these but I know a lot of people that like them. They're available at big box pet stores which is nice.
  
• Nina Ottosson Pyramid...very similar to the Kong Wobbler, but the hole is in a more difficult location. Good toy but the bottom could use more counterweighting for the wobble action.
  
• PetSafe Busy Buddy Magic Mushroom...really good wobble action, but for some reason it's common for dogs to try and chuck this one down the stairs and break it. I've heard of a few dogs doing this, including my GSD. I have no idea what about this toy screams "fling me down the stairs!"
  
  Complex Action Toys
  These need movement in more than one direction (or very specific movement) to get kibble out of, which makes them pretty challenging.
  
  
• PetSafe Busy Buddy Tug-a-Jug...this toy is hard to learn but easy to master. Once your dog figures out the mechanism it doesn't last long. Also that rope gets SUPER GROSS.
  
• Nina Ottosson Board Games...I don't personally have any of these because my dogs cannot be trusted with small parts, but I've heard people say good things about them.
  
• Trixie Mad Scientist...this toy is cool because the dog has to learn to spin the tubes slowly or centripetal acceleration holds the food in. Good exercise in impulse control. I had a DIY one for awhile but my dogs decided to brute force this toy.
  
  Soothing, Low Energy Toys
  Along with the stuff n' freeze toys, these are good for dogs on crate rest or who need some extra help relaxing before bed.
  
  
• Snuffle Mat...great toy for activating a dog's foraging instincts and calming their minds. This is a good DIY project, or you can get extra lazy and chuck a bunch of food into the grass for nature's puzzle toy.
  
• HyperPet Lickimat...my cats eat their wet food from the orange kind ("buddy"), and my dogs use the green kind ("soother") with some PB or cheese as a distraction during grooming. You can spread a thin layer of something tasty on them and freeze for a long-lasting treat that promotes the calming behavior of licking.
  
  
  My dogs (and cats!) eat all their food out of puzzles so I am constantly on the lookout for new challenges! I'd be happy to provide more details on any of the toys I have, or buy and review any toys people have been wondering about :)
  EDIT: btw this Jackson Galaxy Asteroid is my favorite cat puzzle toy. They really need to make one for dogs because it is kinda quirky with its bounciness and super quiet.

This is a great question, and one that I find really fascinating. Training your dog to be self disciplined is really important. Particularly with bouncy breeds! (Be realistic though, no being is perfect :D)

Here are some suggestions.

• Ian Dunbar has some strong opinions on how a dog should be expected to behave - his motivations are similar to yours (ensuring the dog is a loved and welcomed family member for its own long-term future). He is a great believer in crate training and socialisation. I tend to agree with him. These resources are very useful: https://www.siriuspup.com/
  
  
• Definitely heeling - this is a really important skill which you can build on and build on. Lots of practice, well rewarded, will mean you can get your dog walking close by your side when needed. Similarly, teach an emergency about-turn and - down the track - heeling on both sides with a cue to switch from one side to the other.
  
  
• Hand target (fist bump with the nose). Great for moving the dog, keeping her entertained when you need to sit and wait somewhere - and a foundation for a million other things to be trained.
  
  
• Go to your mat / bed / crate
  
  
• Automatic sit. Certainly fits with the image of the 'disciplined dog' and will help with encouraging calm.
  
  
• Emergency sit ( at a distance)
  
  
• Recall, recall, recall! As well as training 'come', also use a whistle - blow it and give the dog a bowl of chicken. Extend the distance. Repeat in different locations. Your whistle is now a rock solid emergency-only recall cue.
  
  
• Stop on recall
  
  
• Automatic leave-it. http://www.dogtrainergames.com/its-yer-choice/
  
  
• Crate Games by Susan Garrett are awesome for teaching discipline and also a load of other things
  
  
• Help your dog learn to be calm when he's not getting attention:
  Relax on a Mat
  and
  Relaxation Protocol by Karen Overall
  
  
• Advanced: help your dog learn to calm himself when he's anxious or reacting to a trigger through relaxation and biofeedback
  
  Don't be too snooty about training tricks. Firstly, fun training for treats will keep your dog interested in training: training a variety tricks for treats throughout her life will help you build a great bond and strengthen the 'training mindset' which is important for a love of learning and advanced obedience.
  The key to successful training is to make everything a game. Ultimately, you want your dog to choose to offer the behaviours you want (like sitting calmly at your feet while you sit and eat a burger) because she thinks it's an awesome trick which will get her a huge reward.
  Learning tricks provides a useful and entertaining way to tire the dog out; training tires them far faster than long walks or runs. You have a smart pup, so lots of heeling and basic training will get boring for both of you. Plus: training a few cute tricks will melt people's hearts and help overcome the perception problems you're worried about. You could start with a paw shake, bow, roll-over, and work up to 'peekaboo' (through your legs), spin... The 'Do More With Your Dog' program offers a huge range of tricks to choose between.
  
  Be sure to train things which are age appropriate: she'll probably mature by about 18mo -2yrs, so don't expect advanced calculus before then!
  

Alright. Here's my 2 cents. Except it's probably gonna turn out to be 50 cents because I like to type, so bear with me.

1. Throw your preconceptions about crate training OUT the window. Especially with a velcro breed like a German shepherd, crate training will be your best friend and key tool. If you need the dog to not be up your ass for a little while (which it will, I guarantee you, that's shepherds for ya), you'll need a place to put it. Since it takes time to train a long down-stay, a crate is your best bet. Proper crate training teaches the dog that the crate is a safe, cozy place for the dog to relax and chew a bone or take a nap or just chill. So find some books or online articles and read up on how to do it because it's great. Seriously. I promise you, when done right, it is absolutely not cruel whatsoever. This article is a good place to start.
   
   
2. Again, read up on it. I haven't had many experiences introducing cats and dogs, so I can't give you my own anecdotal advice, but like with anything else take it slow and keep it positive. Reward the dog for calm behavior around the cats and if s/he tries to chase them, give a time-out or separate them for a while. The cats are the real wild cards here, because if they have not been socialized to dogs then they are of course liable to get angry at the dog. If the dog hasn't been socialized to cats then the dog will perceive the anger as excitement and may try to play or fight, depending on the dog. So try to keep the cats calm and give them plenty of spaces to escape to; if they like to climb, get them a tower or a shelf that's all theirs, for example.
   
   
3. Nah, not necessarily. Every dog has different toy preferences so if you get a bunch now you may find that your dog isn't even interested in half of them. I would say wait until you get the dog and then go to a pet store together and figure out what it likes then. However, one thing that is useful for almost every dog is a Kong or two (or three...). If you want to start stocking something now, I would strongly suggest putting a little money away per week/month/pay period in a savings account so you have some financial cushion if the dog suddenly needs expensive vet care. Or just for general expenses for the dog. Because they are expensive.
   
   
4. Bones are fine. Make sure they are raw, because cooked bones can splinter and cause damage. My person lrule is that if they are small enough to swallow or soft enough to break down into swallowable pieces, they don't get them while unsupervised. Also be careful with super hard things like antlers at first. I've never experienced this, but apparently some dogs have softer teeth than others and can break their teeth on antler chews. Antlers are great for puppies who are chewing maniacs but again, just supervise them at first. Rawhides are also hit or miss; many people give them to their dogs without issue but ingested rawhide can sometimes swell up from moisture and cause intestinal blockages. Apparently. Most people agree that it's unsafe to give rawhide to puppies.
   
   
5. Positive reinforcement trainer. Don't settle for anything else. Look for a trainer who is a certified behaviorist (will have a master's or PhD), has an animal behavior degree, has credentials through the Association of Pet Dog Trainers or the Karen Pryor Academy (there are a few others but those are the most common), and/or a combination of two or more of those things. You can search for one here or here. And here is a worst-case scenario story of what can happen when a dog that just has a few bad manners gets "trained" abusively and irresponsibly.
   
   
6. Hmm. I have no idea what a fourteener is, but I'll give this one a shot. Hiking, in my experience, is not too strenuous exercise for a dog. If you were running the dog really hard in a game of fetch or taking him/her on a jog without giving it breaks, that would be one thing. But leisurely hikes, where the dog can slow down or speed up or stop and sniff at its own pace, should be just fine. What I like to do with our dog is put her on a 20'+ leash and just let her drag that so we don't have to hold a leash and she can run ahead and then wait for us, which she likes to do. She sticks pretty close (she's a shepherd too), but a recent rescue may not do the same. I would recommend, if you do the long leash method, clipping it to your belt/loop with a carabiner. That way, dog gets to run ahead or lag behind, but can't run off. ...Aaand I got sidetracked. Watch for signs of tiredness: excessive panting, lagging behind, stopping and sitting/lying down, low head and slow movement, etc. Just make sure to at first give doggie lots of breaks (and offer water every break!) and work up to longer hikes.
   
   
7. Depends on what your dog is interested in. Some dogs just want to run and chase a ball, and only that will tire them. Other dogs will be entertained by a few training sessions or a game of Find the Treat/Toy. Others are more relaxed/lazy and will be content lying around the house with you. That's probably not the case for many German shepherds, but if the dog is older it may be. I like to feed our dog with a food ball or puzzle toy, because it takes her longer to eat and is more interactive and entertaining than her just guzzling her food out of a bowl. I will also give her a stuffed and frozen Kong (usually it has food and/or treats and some peanut butter) if she is especially bored and I don't have time to play with her or walk her. I suggest teaching your dog lots of fun tricks because s/he will pick them up quickly and then you can have them do the tricks if they're bored. :)
   
   Other tips, even though this is getting ridiculously long - Read! Educate yourself! Explore as many possible resources as you can to find what is right for you and your dog! Here are some good ones:
   
   

• Whole Dog Journal (website/periodical)
  
  
• The Other End of the Leash (book)
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)
  
  
• Clickertraining.com
  
  
• Dogmantics.com, and her YouTube channel
  
  Damn. Sorry that is so long. If you somehow have any other questions after all that, I'd be glad to answer them. I have had many, many family dogs, currently share a beloved whiny baby German shepherd with my boyfriend, am pursuing a BS in animal behavior, and work at a positive reinforcement dog training facility. So I am a fountain of fun facts just waiting to be asked questions!

> if I'm not particularly doing this 'exercise' but going for regular walks, how should I react to the triggers?

Any walk can turn into a training exercise for us if triggers appear. Not ideal, but that's the dog I have. Runners are trickier because they're moving faster and by the time you see them, the dog's likely over threshold already. Ideally, you'd avoid runners while you work on controlled training exercises, but a dog's gotta walk, and a few people can devote all their time to training. Do the best you can, and understand setbacks happen. When in doubt, I think creating distance is best. Sometimes for me that means doing a 180 and literally running in the other direction with my dog to move as fast as I can away from the trigger.

Learn to be clear with kids about not approaching your dog. I've found they often listen better than most adults :/

> she started barking I tried to divert her attention to a treat and moving a bit away from the trigger, but to no avail

Thresholds are an important concepts for reactivity. I think one of the biggest issues with people first starting out in training is that they often attempt to work when their dog is already over threshold. Working under threshold is key to progress. This is some good reading.

> I know I should avoid giving the treat AFTER she barks at all costs, because then I'm basically telling her I love it when she barks at the triggers

Not necessarily, I don't think. You could also be rewarding for stopping barking and focusing back on you. For example, if my dog starts barking at another dog, I might first create distance between us and the other dog, then when I get her attention back on me, reward. Take a few steps closer to other dog with her attention still on me, reward, and continue to work with her under threshold.

Keep in mind that you'd also (and preferably) want to be rewarding when there's a trigger when your dog is calm and before she actually reacts. Ideally, you'd never put your dog in a position where she'd react and never need to reward for attention back on you, but that's impossible to achieve with a reactive dog in the real world.

> I'm very interested in dog psychology to be honest.

I highly recommend Patricia McConnell's books and blog for people just getting into it. She has a book for reactivity training, but The Other End of the Leash is great for a more general read.

Also check out r/reactivedogs and the resources on their wiki as well as those on the reactive dog support group here.

We used a method called "Make Like A Tree" when training my GSD to walk nicely on a leash. Your dog is definitely not too old for it.

Start at your door like you're about to go for a walk. Hold the leash low enough so that it gets taut as soon as her shoulder passes your thigh. She should not have very much room to go in front of you at all before she is pulling. As soon as you open the door, she's probably going to try to walk out in front of you, right? So stand your ground, hold her leash in that position and don't move. Let her pull and tug and lunge out the door and completely ignore her. Have a treat on hand so that as soon as she realizes her efforts are futile and turns her attention back to you, you can reward her. Lure her back to your side with a treat (this may need to be a really high-value treat if she's a serious puller). As soon as she's sitting by your side in a heel position take one step out the door. If she immediately lunges ahead of you, just freeze and wait until she turns her attention towards you again. If it's taking her a long time to focus on you, you can try making funny noises, whistling, and saying her name to try and shorten the time that she isn't listening. Repeat the same thing as before, luring her back to your side and take another step. Keep doing this, just in your front yard. I've found that it helps to set a timer on my phone and keep it in my back pocket. I tend to get frustrated with my pup when he doesn't listen (don't we all?) so I set a timer for 15 minutes. After that, we go inside for a little while and try again later. You being frustrated is going to cause you to expect more of the dog and be rougher on the leash, both of which will just cause her training to go slower. This is a pretty lengthy process that requires a lot of patience, but it's so worth it in the end.

Once she understands the concept of staying by your side in front of your house, start going around the neighborhood or down the street. When she's by your side continually praise her in a happy, cheery voice. I've found it helpful to teach my boy "Watch me!" so that whenever I give him the command, he will look up at me. This is great for when I see another person or dog approaching him and know he is going to want to pull. I say watch me ahead of time and continually feed him treats until we are past the distraction. If your dog does pull, just do the same thing as the beginning- freeze and hold your ground until she's back in the heel position.

I would recommend getting a martingale collar for your pup, or a front-latching harness. The martingale collar will tighten a little when the dog pulls, which I have found to help them understand why you are stopping. It's also better for their neck, as it distributes the weight of their pulling across the entire circumference of the neck, instead of right on their trachea. The added bonus is that it self-tightens, so she can't slip out of it if she starts throwing her head around in frustration. Don't confuse this with a choke chain or prong collar or anything. The martingale can only tighten a little bit, and it's usually made out of heavier fabric, so it will loosen as soon as your pup stops pulling. The front-latching harness is really helpful because it will turn your dog to face you whenever he pulls, but cinching across his shoulders and not letting him walk any further. This is great, because you'll want to lure him into a heel position every time he gets ahead of you on the leash and what better way to do that then have him already face you! It's also useful if your pup is an especially strong puller. The harness will stop her motion as soon as the leash is taut, so it's much easier for you to control her if she's really strong. I had a ton of success with the front-latching harness and my pup. Hope this helps!

My top suggestion isn’t actually to buy supplies, but rather to look through resources that speak to advancements in dog training in recent years.

We’ve come a LONG way in terms of understanding how dogs learn, how we can form the best relationships with them that lead to the best performance possible, etc. There are a lot of outdated techniques that are still popular (the idea the you have to be “dominant” over your dog, jerking on the leash to stop a dog from pulling, stepping on his paws to stop him from jumping, etc.) that don’t work even close to as well as modern dog training techniques. Following more modern techniques that use shaping, clear reward markers, and are built on an understanding of dog behavior, you can start training an 8 week old puppy on day 1 at home, and you’ll have a pup that cheerfully does incredible things in the training at even at a very young age.

So the best advice I have is actually to read this book by Sophia Yin: Perfect Puppy in Seven Days

I also recommend this book, by the same author: How to Behave so Your Dog Behave.

There are lots of online resources you might check out as well – Zak George and KikoPup’s respective YouTube channels are two. Fenzi Dog Sports Academy is also a fantastic resource that is something of a new model in dog training… rather than once-a-week classes, these are online classes that break training down into small pieces and help you incorporate them in day-to-day life, which can be much more valuable than an hour-a-week course at a local trainer. They have courses like this one that can help you get your bearings in understanding the fundamentals of behavior; this one is aimed more at raising a dog sport puppy but would probably be a great foundation for any pup.

Hope this helps! Good luck with your new pupper!

Come on over and join us at r/reactivedogs.

First off, it’s important to set some realistic expectations. You almost certainly can get this dog to a point where you can walk her around the neighborhood without her reacting to everyone and everything, but she’s probably never going to be the type of dog that is friendly and outgoing to other people or dogs she doesn’t know, or one that you can take to the dog park, crowded public places, etc. Many dogs are just not like that, and that’s okay. That would be like expecting your introverted shy anxious friend to morph into being a social butterfly and life of the party after getting her anxiety under control.

Medication can really help a lot of anxious dogs, but it is important to realize that it is not a cure- just a tool to help bring your dog to a level where training can be productive. It sounds like you are pretty committed to working with this dog, so I would certainly encourage you to talk to your vet about trying something like Prozac (which is a great one to start out with because many dogs respond well to it, and it’s very inexpensive.)

Here’s a list of resources that I’ve been compiling (pardon the copy and paste) that I’ve found very helpful with my own dog (a GSD/pit/husky mix). We’ve also been working with trainers well versed in reactivity, so I’ve included some of the skills we’ve been working on.

————

About Leash Reactivity and how to deal with it:

Dealing with Leash Reactivity: Best Friends Animal Society

The Reactive Dog: Your Dogs Friend Workshop (Video) It’s long, but seriously, watch it. Lots of good info.

Feisty Fido: Help for the Leash Reactive Dog - A short booklet by well-renowned behaviorist Patricia McConnell who has lots of experience dealing with reactivity.

From Crazy to Calm: A Training Plan for Leash Reactivity

——————-

The Goal: Changing Perceptions with Counterconditioning and Desensitization

Introduction to Desensitization and Counterconditioning

Helping Your Shy Dog Gain Confidence

—————

Foundation Skills

When dealing with reactivity, being able to get your dog’s attention or employ a distraction at the right moment is really critical. These are foundation skills for dealing with reactivity.

Name game (a clicker is not essential- you can use your praise word instead.) Goal: focus.

Look at Me. Goal: Focus

It’s Your Choice. Goal: Impulse control

Leave It (Make sure you are giving a different treat, not the one they’re supposed to leave.) Goal: Impulse control

Emergency U-turn. Goal: Management- being able to get out of a situation that will cause the dog to go over threshold.

Find It Goal: Distraction/diffusion

Engage/Disengage. Goal: counterconditioning and desensitization.

Start by working on these skills in a quiet area indoors, gradually increasing distractions. Then start practicing outdoors in an area with few distractions, again gradually increasing distractions. This is the key to getting a distracted dog to pay attention to you outside. If your dog can’t focus, you need to take a step back (quite literally, in some cases). Set your dog up to succeed- try not to put them in situations where they will fail.

From what you've said here my best guess would be is that he is barking out of boredom. He's figured out that when he barks you come out and play a fun game of (unintentional) chase.

I know you've said that he gets plenty of exercise, which is fantastic, but dogs need more than just physical exercise. They also need mental stimulation and fun so I would work on making the yard more exciting.

First step is if you haven't already, getting rid of the food bowl. Food bowls are boring, there's no challenge and 30 seconds later the food is gone. Get food puzzle toys, I recommend getting at least 2 different ones so you can alternate and they don't get boring. Something like the Kong Wobbler and a Treat Ball there are so many types out there. Another really simple method is simply scattering their food around the yard so they have to go searching around and forage for it. Give him meaty bones and chew toys/treats that he has to really focus on and spend time with, not just Snap and its gone.

Does he have any toys out in the yard to play with? If so, does he actually play with them? I could surround my dog in tennis balls and soft toys and she's just sleep on them, but give her a cheap plastic flowerpot and she's running around like a lunatic. Make sure they're actually toys he wants to play with and again its a good idea to alternate them so they don't get old. There are some great ideas for enrichment here, some really good homemade (and cheap) enrichment ideas. If your dog likes to dig then maybe set up a sandpit, just get a plastic wading pool and put sand in it, hide treats and toys in there, lots of fun. If he likes tug of war then the Bungees are great (I'm sure there's a US version).

You should do daily training sessions with him. These don't require giant chunks of time, in fact its better if you only do 5-10 minutes at a time. Do these a few times a day, you can do 1-2 in the morning and then a couple more in the evening. It doesn't matter what you're teaching him, just get him using his brain. Tricks are fun for both of you and dogs love showing them off for attention.

Addressing the barking though, I think you need to stop going out when he barks. He gets your attention and a game for this behaviour, why would he stop? He only gets rewarded for appropriate behaviour. Hold out for quiet and calm behaviour, I'll warn you now that he'll most likely get worse before he gets better. This is known as an Extinction Burst do NOT give in. He is just trying harder and longer to get the reaction he wants if you give in he will simply have learned to bark more. If you feel its necessary drop a note to your neighbours letting them know that you are working on his barking and he might be worse for a little bit but it should pass quickly.
This teaches him what wont get a good reaction, so you should teach him what to do instead. When he's calm and just doing his own thing, reward it. Give him a treat or a game, or let him inside. Make being quiet the behaviour that gets him what he wants.

So, outside is SO MUCH MORE EXCITING!!! OH MY GOD!! Have you sniffed those BUSHES!? And look at that BIRD! I wanna catch it! It's a good bird, I'm gonna get it! OOOHH!! I FORGOT ABOUT THAT POLE!!! IT'S THE MOST EXCITING THING EVER!!!

So yeah. Outside can be super, super, super exciting for dogs. There is so much more vying for their attention and most pets are inside far more than they are outside so they've never really learned to ignore all the distractions from outside.

Have you ever walked into something like a TV store where every TV has some different show on? It's overwhelming, and you can't figure out where to focus your attention, right? That's what outside can feel like to some dogs.

You are utterly uninteresting in that environment!

What is key is getting your dog to be able to ignore those distractions and instead focus on you. It's going to be a long process, and you have to basically start from the beginning whenever you're in a new environment.

I think a great idea is to work on general attention when outside. Kikopup has some great games to show your dog that paying attention to you when outside is a great thing. For these games, I highly recommend a high value treat. When I first started with my pup I had to use warm boiled chicken (cold chicken wasn't interesting enough). She would also work for warmed lunch meat (I just threw in in a tupperware and threw it in the microwave for a bit)

While doing these games, if you don't have a fenced area, get a long line (if you don't have one already) so that your dog is safe. Always attach a long line to a harness as a dog can really gain some speed and if they hit the end of the long line on their neck, it can really damage it.

Another thing you can look up is "Crate Games". I unfortunately don't have a link for this (I'm learning them from a class) as sometimes initially using a crate outside when they've learned these games in the same crate while inside can help dogs transfer the behaviors more easily. This is what I'm trying to use for my pup whose recall is certainly less than stellar when outside (she LOVES to sniff things and has a huge prey drive)

Here's the DVD for crate games (runs about $34) I've never viewed the DVD, my trainer is just using the basic concepts in this DVD for her class.

Ok. Given the information I have right now, here's how I would handle it.

Think if there's somewhere you can go for a week or two. Best friend's house? Mom's house? If so, calmly let BF know that you are going to stay there for a while in order to give him a break from the dog and work on his behavior. If not, skip this step.

Second, you need to understand fear aggression. Both of you do, but I'll leave it to your judgment when to ask BF to read up. I'd recommend Click to Calm because it's fantastic at real-life solutions.

(we should also talk about management somewhere in here if he's reacting to things he sees/hears inside the house, or reactions are >50% of the time on walks).

Third, you need to work on teaching the basic principles of self control. This can include general training like suddenly settle and it will also include counterconditioning. For example, walking around potential "triggers" at a wide distance, and feeding him treats when he looks at them. (And feeding him ALL OF THE TREATS) when you see him willfully disengage from the "threat" or he can give you a sit. (Click to Calm will teach you much more.) It will be helpful to be able to show BF a gameplan and/or some changes.

Forth, boyfriend needs to learn to relate to Ares in a way that Ares won't find threatening. I'll include some specific suggestions:

• Being aware of his body language when he's interacting with Ares. It's human nature to anticipate and prepare for what we think will happen. With an aggressive dog, this often includes clenching our fists, freezing up, drawing in a quick breath and/or holding our breath, squaring/raising our shoulders, or leaning forward. He'll need to make a conscious effort to relax.
  
  
• Being aware of the body language he directs toward YOU. It sounds like y'all are having heated arguments about Ares. You're the only human Ares has ever trusted. Even in absence of physical fighting, there's often a very clear nonverbal power dynamic. At best, both of you have arms folded across your chests and stiff bodies; at worst, BF's got clenched fists and a furious expression on his face, and you've got your arms up as if you're defending yourself. We do these things without thinking. If it gets to the point where you can't keep your tones and body language calm, make sure Ares can't see or hear.
  
  
• Cultivating positive experiences. Taking a deep breath. Relaxing his body. Tossing really good treats to Ares. Taking Ares to do fun things.
  
  If you read this and thought "there is no way in hell my boyfriend is going to do any of this," then, once again, I have to shove unsolicited relationship advice into a dog training thread. Behavior modification is work. It's going to be inconvenient. It's really, really hard to be successful if your partner isn't on your team. At that point, you have to be asking yourself how much you value your relationship with this man, and whether you believe his reaction to the situation to be reasonable or unreasonable.
  
  If I can help any more, for example with developing a specific training plan, please feel free to reply or P.M. I'll want to know whether there's any reaction to things he sees/ hears from inside the house, whether he eats well, how often and intense the reactions are (two or three times on a half hour walk, or is he Kujo for half an hour straight?) and as much detail as you can give me about the interactions between Ares and your BF. I'd also be curious to know more about the trainer. There isn't a whole lot of formal training available for aggression. There are ADPT (general reward-based) trainers I would unhesitatingly, unreservedly trust with my aggressive dog. "I'm not really qualified" may mean that she's not really qualified, or that she identifies the lack of comprehensive training programs in the area and wants to be really honest. If she's got even casual experience treating aggression with reward-based training, she's overwhelmingly more qualified than the vast majority of people who hold themselves up as trainers for aggressive dogs, who often use things like pinch/prong collars and antiquated dominance theories that make the situation worse.

This book is a great resource for better understanding canine body language:
http://www.amazon.com/Canine-Body-Language-Photographic-Interpreting/dp/1929242352/ref=pd_sim_b_5/189-4595631-1886760?ie=UTF8&refRID=04AEDTWQFB8NV00GW42G

What you were describing with the one dog humping yours, that's an incredibly dominant behavior- it's not about them mating. When a dog does that to your dog, it's the equivalent of someone coming up to you and puffing up their chest and shoving you. The fact that she only told him off with a sharp bark is very tolerant and a good sign that she's doing well on keeping her attitude adjustments on other dogs reasonable.

When you say she 'attacked' your sister's other dog- was there blood and was the other dog damaged in any way? If not and it was just a scuffle with a lot of noise, that's not an 'attack'. Judging by nothing more than the terrible behavior of the other dog, that may well have been a warranted telling off.

Most cattle dogs in particular are dogs that do NOT tolerate fools well. Someone tries to dominate them and they do not have any of it, no matter the size of the other dog. If a dog stares at your dog, puts it's chin on your dog's back, humps your dog, etc- these are all dominant behaviors and often cause another dog to seem 'aggressive' for not tolerating them to people who don't know better.

Some dogs also have a bigger 'bubble' than other dogs. Herding breeds tend to be in that category. They want more space from other dogs they don't know. Managing initial greetings and meetings is important. If another dog is being dominant to you dog- stop that dog's behavior. Do not punish your dog for correcting that dog (assuming your dog isn't injuring the other dog). It's your job to let your dog know that you will handle it if other dogs are being jerks. Then your dog won't take matters into her own 'hands'.

The interaction with the Pug- well, they sound really weird to non-short nosed dogs. My dog thinks that their weird breathing is growling so he's been known to growl at them, too, and he's incredible well-mannered and social. I'd skip greeting Pugs or French bulldogs for now until you guys are better understanding each other.

This is a long, but good article from a pro dog trainer on body language and dominant behaviors:

http://suzanneclothier.com/the-articles/he-just-wants-say-hi

Other good articles on her site:
http://suzanneclothier.com/articles

I have an Australian Cattle Dog (heeler) and a Cattle dog/Catahoula mix. They are both city/suburb dogs. The make like a tree trick works with my CattleHoula, but my heeler I just say, 'no, with me' and pat the side of my leg until he comes back (though I do stop moving). When he is there, we walk on. When he gets too far ahead, he has to come back. It's like the tree method- they don't like backtracking that much. You can start it out with treats though- get her to stay close that way and praise her when she gets what 'with me' or 'heel' or whatever command you want to use, means.

Some dogs don't greet others well on leash. They feel the leash as a weakness that the other dogs can (and have) use to attack them. You are holding them back- they are not free to defend themselves or get away. So, I tend not to do leash greetings myself. If we are meeting dogs who have good body language or I know, I drop the leash (leaving it attached in case I need to grab it) and my dogs' behavior changes drastically. I know that's not an all the time solution, especially on roads, but then, you don't need to greet every dog you meet for your dog to learn social skills. That's better done off leash, in a controlled environment with dogs you know to be well-mannered (your sister's dogs do not sounds like they have good doggy manners). Once you know she can be trusted and she knows to come to you if there's an issue and YOU will sort it, then things get easier.

I used to take mine on walks to a nearby ball diamond and then play fetch with them there. Then walk them home. If other dogs came, we left. My dogs are stellar with nearly all other dogs, but you have no idea what a strangers' dog is going to be like. I don't like taking chances with my dogs' safety. We used to go to dog parks a lot, but so many dogs have no manners and their owners are clueless, hence the ball diamonds.

If you aren't sure of her recall, work on having a word that means she comes to you right now, no matter what and only use it when you need it. There are training classes (short ones) that teach it, or you can check out this booklet:

http://www.dogwise.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=dtb813

It helps with the times you are out and need her to get away from a situation (before it develops) so that she stays safe and you don't have to worry about her.

Good luck! She sounds like a great dog (and frankly, sounds like a typical heeler despite the Golden half- heh!).

I'm sorry you're dealing with such a tough situation. It's possible to turn this dog's behavior around, but it's not easy and will need a lot of patience and consistency. Cesar Millan is the exact opposite of what any dog needs; Millan is the living embodiment of the joke, "Beatings will continue until morale improves." His methods of flooding overstimulated dogs, forcing them into a frightened, shutdown mode, and often just kicking them in the stomach are just inhumane. Kikopup is a step in a better direction, and she's actually on my list.

Here's my go-to list of training resources; many of them get recommended around here a lot. I like these folks because their methods are humane and ethical as well as effective. Pretty much every issue that can pop up is covered by them in some way, easy to find with Google.

• Victoria Stilwell
  
• Jane Killion (Great book: When Pigs Fly: Training Success with Impossible Dogs)
  
• Karen Pryor (Great books: Don't Shoot the Dog & Reaching the Animal Mind)
  
• Sophia Yin (Great book: How to Behave So Your Dog Behaves)
  
• Jean Donaldson (Great books: Fight! & The Culture Clash)
  
• Pat Miller (Great book: The Power of Positive Dog Training)
  
• Patricia McConnell (Great book: The Other End of the Leash)
  
• Ian Dunbar. He's done a lot of work with puppies and has a blog and tons of articles as well as a TED Talk.
  
• Zak George
  
• Kikopup
  
• Kristin Crestejo
  
• A great article on canine body language/calming signals: Calming Signals: The Art of Survival by Turid Rugaas.
  
  For you, check out Jean Donaldson's Fight! Jane Killion's When Pigs Fly is always the book I recommend most for training in general, even if your dog isn't a typically stubborn breed, as it's all about how to find what motivates your dog and use it to get the behavior you want.
  
  I highly suggest Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0 (BAT) as well.
  
  Good luck!
  
  

Some of these are probably things you've already thought about, but here is my list.

Please visit /r/puppy101 !

• Kennel appropriate for his size, should be able to lay down and turn around in it. Too big and the puppy will be more prone to accidents in their kennel. (Midwest Homes makes great crates for all sizes, most come with a divider).
  
• Bedding for kennel and soft blanket. (Example)
  
• Baby blankets, just a personal thing for me - I set up a blanket and put her toys on it, it's her "play area". (Example)
  
• Stuffed toys, squeaky toys, tuggy toys, chew toys (puppy appropriate), snuggle toys - TOYS, TOYS, TOYS. Pets Smart has a buy 2 get 1 free sale, or least they did a week ago. Kong is one of the brands on sale, I highly recommend them.
  
• Teething toys for when he eventually starts teething. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000084E6V/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1 ,
  
• A Kong toy, look up how to use one and which one to buy - my puppy loves it. (http://www.kongcompany.com/)
  
• Toy bin.
  
• Treats that can be cut up into small pieces for training. I use deli Turkey and Chicken, as well as Apples & peanut butter. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H0ZJHW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HBBQKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002H3R2E/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1)
  
• A clicker, if you've decided to do clicker training. (Example)
  
• Harness.
  
• Collar and tags.
  
• Water bowl, food bowl, and mat.
  
• Food storage container, and a scoop.
  
• Treat bag. (Example)
  
• Dental care kit. (Example)
  
• Brush, or Furminator if they're going to be long-haired. (Example, Example)
  
• Shampoo and/or conditioner (Example)
  
• Leash for leash training, and a long leash for other training.
  
• Towels. Large one for drying him or his feet, and small ones for cleaning up messes.
  
• Nature's Miracle, for mess clean up. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJPSXN8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Poop bags or pooper scooper, as well as a poop bag dispenser or trash can for poop. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017SZNOW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M4QLXAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Doggy "diaper bag". I bought a tote online so I can bring stuff with me for travel (to dog park, vet, friends house, etc.) (Example)
  
• Baby gates. So many baby gates - I have two with cat doors and a large door for humans to easily walk through. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00229V2KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
  
• Look into CareCredit or Pet Insurance.
  
• Look up Vets in your area and the costs of all their vaccines/boosters/exams/spray or neuter/rabies shots/etc.
  
• Look up your states laws on dog registration (usually occurs right after they get their rabies shot).
  
  Edit: Forgot Nail Clipps and/or a dremel.

u/crysanthemumCord is right on with their advice.

Just some more suggestions on toys: I almost buy dogs toys exclusively from Amazon or Chewy. I find that their prices are competitive, and who doesn't like having packages delivered right to them? Kongs are great, but there are also treat balls that dogs can roll around with their noses for kibble -- I feed my dogs from these so they get a bit of mental play while searching for their food. You can also consider snuff mats or lick mats or even puzzle toys. These are great ways to stimulate them mentally with minimal effort from you.

If you have stores like Marshalls or Ross near you, you can also find discounted dog toys. You'll have to dig around a little, but there are some great finds!

By the way, all of these links go to particular brands that I've had luck with. I'm by no means suggesting that these are the best or that there aren't alternatives out there. Do some research on what you think your pup will enjoy!

​

Properly fitted chest harness should not allow that, we use easy walk harness both at home and in the shelter. It is mostly going to come down to counter conditioning. Have you tried feeding her out doors? Lots of treats while outside possibly play time with a favorite toy. It is very hard to give any real hard set advice with out being able to evaluate the dog in person.

I would look into possibly a dog behaviorist who would be able to write up a dedicated plan for your dog and her needs. One thing you can try is reward her for even looking at the door. Then start rewarding her for stepping towards the door. And then reward her for stepping out side, moving on to being calm out side. But again with out seeing the dog it would be hard to tell the severity of her issue or her triggers.

One of the best books on fearful dogs is The Cautious Canine. And a very nice online resource is fearfuldogs.com. Keep an eye out for weak nerves and good luck I hope everything works out for you and her!

EDIT: Assuming she does not have weak nerves and is still getting over her shelter experience there is hope. My boy was a breeder dog for 3 years, had never walked on grass, seen stairs, felt wind etc. We had to acclimate him to all of that. It took us better part of a year and that with prior training and dedication to the dog. Look into clicker training it can be a godsend.

Right now, by putting the food in first, you are luring her. This isn't a problem, it just uses different learning mechanism than shaping, and tends to work much slower.

I'd try getting her in the kennel, and then giving her a treat (while she's still in the kennel.) Wait a second or two, then give her another. Do this 4-5 times, then call her out of the kennel. Chances are, she'll turn around and go back in. If not, no worries, just use better cookies and try again later. If she does, repeat the game. :) If you ever catch her hanging out in either kennel, give her a treat. The first couple times, you might have to lure, but get away from that as soon as possible. You want her thinking it through and choosing it do it on her own, then by giving her a cookie, you are reinforcing that choice. When you lure, you are reinforcing following the cookie.

It's not a big deal for your dog to prefer other places, but it's also really nice for your dog to like her kennel. I travel a lot with mine (agility trials, camping) and kennels are awesome for that. At different points in their lives, both of mine have also been on crate rest (which sucks when you have active dogs!!) and having them comfortable in their crates helped a ton.

Edit: I should mention there is an amazing DVD on crate training, Crate Games by Susan Garrett.

First of all, I sympathize with you on the housebreaking issue. My cairn terrier is 14 years old and lived in a puppy mill all his life until he was about 7. As a result, I never had much success potty training him as he would just go in his crate (a result of living in a cage all his life). What did give me the best success was to tether him to me while I was in the house. If he went to lift his leg (he's a terrible marker), I'd make the no-no noise, then rush him outside to have him do his business. In this way, I was catching him in the act and reinforcing the correct place to relieve himself. I have successfully potty trained my lab and a few foster dogs this way as well. Secondly, you may want to look into belly bands. It won't stop the dog from peeing, but it will stop him from peeing ON things (i.e., your carpet). For my 16 lb cairn, I cut size 3 diapers in half, fold the wings back, and place in his belly band to absorb the pee.

It sounds like the poor guy has a good deal of separation anxiety along with general anxiety. For the separation, you may want to look into systematic desensitization. Jean Donaldson has a great book with a section on this. The whole book would be beneficial for any dog owner, actually! If you can hook up with a good trainer, I think you'll be able to provide more structure for your dog and in turn, help him feel more comfortable and less anxious.

Best of luck!!

Why not try both? Any good trainer will encourage you to do a lot of work at home to support their advice. The sidebar has links for finding a good trainer. Before signing on to any training program, ask about their beliefs and techniques so you're sure you're comfortable with their suggestions ahead of time. Fearful dogs need a lot of quiet, positive encouragement. This site may offer you some good reading in the meantime. This is a great book too (The Cautious Canine: How to Help Dogs Conquer Their Fears) and is by one of the most respected names in animal behaviourism, if you're interested.

Toy play can take time. This thread may help!

Edited to add: BAT can also be very useful for fearful dogs, so if you can find a BAT trainer near you, I'd suggest you start there.

Oh, that sounds super frustrating!!

Here is a video showing how to make an unflippable bowl for less than $10

I think you can also buy some in pet stores or on Amazon but I'm sure you've tried looking at those already!

Have you tried feeding him out of a puzzle toy like a Kong Wobbler? That way, he's literally pushing the 'feeder' from side to side and bonking it around to get food. Here are some options:

Kong Wobbler

Maze Treat Dispenser

IQ Treat Ball

Buster Food Cube

Sorry, no ideas on water bowls, but I'm sure someone on here will have a suggestion.

My heeler doesn't flip the water bowl but he does love to stick his paw(s) in, which makes my other dog very happy, I'm sure. /s

While I agree with the others here that you should treat around children, I disagree regarding criteria: I don't think you should expect any particular reaction from her in order to treat.

Treating based on a behavioural criteria is operant conditioning. The purpose of operant conditioning is to teach your dog to undertake a certain behaviour based on a certain cue or context. For example, teaching your dog to sit nicely whenever she sees a kid would be great if she tended to be overly excitable and happy around kids and had a tendency to knock them over accidentally.

Treating in the context of a trigger, without expecting any particular behaviour from your dog, is counterconditioning. The purpose of counterconditioning is to change your dog's automatic emotional reaction to the trigger. You treat every time your dog sees a child, regardless of whether your dog is growling or ignoring, because you want your dog to associate "child=something good!". Over time, your dog should start to feel good about children because they predict good things.

Depending on what your goals with your dog are, you may be happy to stop at counterconditioning -- say, you don't particularly care whether your dog sits next to you, sniffs the floor, politely says hello to the child, as long as the dog isn't being aggressive to the child. Just improving the dog's emotional reaction to children would be sufficient for that. On the other hand, if you want to see a specific behaviour from your dog around children, then after you have successfully counterconditioned your dog, you can work on operant conditioning.

You will not have much success with operant conditioning your dog when she is experiencing fear around children. Fear inhibits learning, and your dog is unlikely to even bother listening to you if it feels threatened. "Pleasing mum" takes a backseat to "defending my life!" any day for a dog, so it will ignore cues from you until it feels like the trigger has retreated.

Another tool for working with fearful reactive dogs is Behavioural Adjustment Training (BAT). It is similar to operant conditioning in that you reward your dog for appropriate "de-escalation" behaviour (e.g., turning away from the trigger, sniffing the ground, etc.) but instead of giving a treat or a toy, you reward the dog by allowing it to put more space between it and the trigger. Grisha Stewart developed the technique, and has written a couple books on how to do it, the most recent being [Behavior Adjustment Training 2.0] (https://www.amazon.ca/Behavior-Adjustment-Training-2-0-Frustration/dp/1617811742/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474135094&sr=8-1&keywords=grisha+stewart). It requires that you have willing children to volunteer to stand around in a field or something while you do the training set-ups -- maybe find a helpful parent and offer to buy the kid an ice cream cone?

I have heard good things about this training club: http://www.sicdtc.org/
They appear not to offer private lessons, but perhaps you could call and see if you can get any kind of referral to a positive reinforcement trainer who will be able to come to your home. Failing that, their basic obedience classes might be enough to help you, particularly because there will be other people in the class, who might participate in reinforcing the no jumping, no mouthing behavior. Is this specific to guests in your home or does she do this with strangers outside as well?

I agree with /u/SuffragettePizza that board and trains are usually at best ineffective (because dogs don't generalize training well as he/she points out) and at worst harmful if the trainers use harsh methods you don't agree with - I would be particularly concerned about this with a muscled larger dog because there is some perception that these types of dogs need to be "forced into submission" and "only shocks and corrections work," etc. If you lose the argument with your dad and absolutely must use a board-and-train, Instinct Dog Training in Harlem uses only positive reinforcement in their board-and-train program. It would be a real trek for you, but I'd hate if you sent Genie elsewhere where they shocked her every time she jumped :(. This could make her go from being over excited to aggressive.

Here are some suggestions for the jumping behavior.

Do not let her practice this behavior. Jumping and mouthing is self-reinforcing so every time she does it, she gets rewarded for it and it becomes more likely that she will repeat this behavior in the future. If you do not wish to train her or work with her when particular guests come over, put her in a different room or contain her in some other way: crate her or tether her to her bed or mat and give her a chew toy to work on while your guests are present. Occasionally give her treats for remaining calm in the presence of guests.

I initially used the Treat and Train, which was specifically invented to reinforce calmness around guests. It's expensive, but not as expensive as several training sessions, and if you follow the dvd's instructions, it really does work, although it's a bit large and clunky and occasionally jams. I believe there are other treat dispensing machines out there so you can do more research into which one is the best one. I would actually pay the $100 just for the dvd that comes with the Treat and Train though because it has some really solid, comprehensive, easy to understand training videos especially tailored for overexcited jumpy dogs.

When you have guests who are able and willing to participate in training, keep her on a leash when they enter and prevent her from jumping on them or mouthing them. Tell your guests to complete ignore her, even turn their back on her, when she jumps and only pet her when she's sitting or lying down. To speed up this process, you can keep a jar of treats by the door and have the guest place the treat on the floor at their feet so Genie is forced to keep her head down to eat the treat as she gets petted. Here is a Kikopup video demonstrating this concept: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lC_OKgQFgzw. Depending on how willing you are to act like a crazy person, you can practice this with one of your family members first to make it easier for Genie so she starts to understand what behavior is expected of her before a real exciting guest arrives. So, like, you could have your dad ring the bell, and then enter and pretend to greet everyone just as a guest would.

Sorry for the novel, hope this helps!

You cannot safely have them out together until they are assessed by a trained behaviorist. Ideally a vet behaviorist (a person who has basically double credentials - not some tool who calls themselves a 'dog whisperer' after a year of 'working with dogs'. Someone who went to school to be a vet and also study animal behavior.), but a professional force free trainer who is experienced in aggression would work.

Remind you girlfriend of the vet bill you've already paid and ask her how many more just like that she wants to experience. Also, the blood and stress of more fights. If you try to just put them back together that will happen again. Guaranteed. Even if they seem fine when separated, if you won't know how to see the warning signs (and the bark/snap your lab did was probably the 10th or so signal...) and how to deescalate the situation (6 minute fight, water hose, human bitten, huge gashes...) then you should absolutely 100% not try to put them together at all.

Ok, done with scolding. Here's some constructive help.

Taking them to the vet was the right thing to do. Your catahoula x limping is likely because of bruising, and the vet couldn't have done anything about that. Treat her like you would if you got a bad leg bruise - rest, ice (if she'll let you), light exercise the next few days, and if the vet gave you any pain meds for her go ahead and use those as recommended. (NEVER use aspirin or tylenol, or any other OTC human medication on a dog unless your vet has specifically cleared it for the dog you are considering dosing right then.)

Ok, why this happened. Some people have mentioned possible dog aggression, IMO that's not likely. When I have seen cases like this (which I unfortunately have, and not uncommonly) it's often same sex dogs, although not always, and the younger dog is at or nearly a year old.

This happens because your older girl has been playing queen of the house and being a bit bossy. The pup has been a bit rude, but has gotten a 'puppy license' (aka - toddlers don't have to follow the same rules as adults). Now, her puppy license has run out and the older dog is saying "No. Stop that. You're an adult, you know the rules and this is MINE."

That doesn't make either girl right. In fact, they're both a bit wrong, IMO. Your younger girl was probably being a real PITA for a while before she got a serious warning, but your lab escalated things too far.

To have any chance of fixing things a few concrete steps need to be taken.

• Keep them apart until you have someone using force free training working with you and your spouse hands on and in person. Some of this stuff just can't be learned online as it's subjective, and sometimes down to experience/a detailed eye. You need that hands on training for the humans involved before you can safely try having them together.
  
  
• Crate and rotate. To keep them as happy as possible divide your home and give each of them time with you and your SO, play time, and walks.
  
  
• Both dogs need to be spayed. Once you've had one fight it's very nearly impossible to have two intact females coexist. Your best chance of future cohabiting is if both are spayed. Besides that, any dog who shows signs of aggression should not be allowed to pass on their genes.
  
  
• Exercise and training. Both dogs need to have their exercise and training needs met - which likely means increasing what you were previously doing. The 'fun' part is that now, since they can't be let out to run together, this will be a lot more work than it would have previously been. Sorry.
  
  
• Work on the lab's recourse guarding using force free methods. If you try to make this a battle with her it will get worse and you'll have killed your shot at cohabitating your girls. She must learn that people and (eventually) other dogs around 'her things' are a wonderful amazing thing, rather than a risk/threat. This can't be done with force or intimidation.
  
  If you can get some of those things started then you can buy yourselves some time to save up for a behaviorist or experienced trainer to work with. The biggest thing is not allowing a repeat event to happen. Behavior is like a big rock on top of a hill, the more it rolls the more it will roll, so if you are very careful and don't allow another fight it'll be easier to fix in the long term. The more fights they have the harder it will be to eventually have them together and loose.
  
  I know this will be a lot of work and stress for both you and your SO, but if you really focus on this and work through it you could be in a much better place in as short a time as a year. Both dogs with you, happier, healthier, and with you having a much stronger understanding of their behavior.
  
  If you don't put that time and effort in then you could easily end up rehoming your catahoula.
  
  Here's some reading and videos to get you started on working with your girls:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Talking-Terms-Dogs-Calming-Signals/dp/1929242360/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496795912&sr=8-1&keywords=calming+signals+on+talking+terms+with+dogs
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Other-End-Leash-What-Around/dp/034544678X/ref=pd_bxgy_14_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=034544678X&pd_rd_r=AC0HWHZD1Z3G43JS30NW&pd_rd_w=SAA8r&pd_rd_wg=F8B3N&psc=1&refRID=AC0HWHZD1Z3G43JS30NW
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Cautious-Canine-How-Conquer-Their-Fears/dp/1891767003/ref=pd_sim_14_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1891767003&pd_rd_r=AC0HWHZD1Z3G43JS30NW&pd_rd_w=LkE4D&pd_rd_wg=F8B3N&psc=1&refRID=AC0HWHZD1Z3G43JS30NW
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Canine-Body-Language-Photographic-Interpreting/dp/1929242352/ref=pd_sim_14_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1929242352&pd_rd_r=AC0HWHZD1Z3G43JS30NW&pd_rd_w=LkE4D&pd_rd_wg=F8B3N&psc=1&refRID=AC0HWHZD1Z3G43JS30NW
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Feisty-Fido-Help-Leash-Reactive-Dog/dp/1891767070/ref=pd_sim_14_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1891767070&pd_rd_r=AC0HWHZD1Z3G43JS30NW&pd_rd_w=LkE4D&pd_rd_wg=F8B3N&psc=1&refRID=AC0HWHZD1Z3G43JS30NW
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Fired-Up-Frantic-Freaked-Out/dp/0985934921/ref=pd_sim_14_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0985934921&pd_rd_r=AC0HWHZD1Z3G43JS30NW&pd_rd_w=LkE4D&pd_rd_wg=F8B3N&psc=1&refRID=AC0HWHZD1Z3G43JS30NW
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Click-Calm-Healing-Aggressive-Clicker/dp/1890948209/ref=pd_sim_14_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1890948209&pd_rd_r=EFPYPPBXNZD3A5JB9205&pd_rd_w=A0y3X&pd_rd_wg=HP5o5&psc=1&refRID=EFPYPPBXNZD3A5JB9205
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Behavior-Adjustment-Training-2-0-Frustration/dp/1617811742/ref=pd_sim_14_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1617811742&pd_rd_r=EFPYPPBXNZD3A5JB9205&pd_rd_w=A0y3X&pd_rd_wg=HP5o5&psc=1&refRID=EFPYPPBXNZD3A5JB9205
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Control-Unleashed-Creating-Focused-Confident/dp/B000UCF53A/ref=pd_sim_14_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000UCF53A&pd_rd_r=EFPYPPBXNZD3A5JB9205&pd_rd_w=A0y3X&pd_rd_wg=HP5o5&psc=1&refRID=EFPYPPBXNZD3A5JB9205
  
  https://saveabull.com/crate-and-rotate/
  
  https://imperfectdog.com/2016/01/12/imperfect-dog-introductions-crate-rotate/
  
  http://www.thedoggeek.com/2014/08/crate-and-rotate.html
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xDeAKj2etMs
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJgod6CO8jU
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nyt2WLdQGs
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oU-WolM6cgg
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnBPlub1Jgs
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=255hotAlI5o
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6De7kEmOV1Q
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-cGDYI-s-cQ
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_7dl4c-IrM
  
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bg_gGguwzg
  
  

Order doesn't matter in the least. I would probably teach a recall first myself, but just because it's easy.

​

What DOES matter is socialization at this age. Very important, especially with breeds that tend to be nervous with strangers. Get him into an all-positive puppy class ASAP if you can afford it. If you can't afford it, here's a good article on it. Do some research, there are books you can read about it as well. Most important thing is you keep it all positive and build great experiences for him.

Have fun with your pup.

If you are happy, and more importantly, your dog is happy and safe then you are doing everything just fine. I have owned dogs for 50 years and never used a crate. My youngest dog uses a crate now because we do agility and it is needed when we are at the venues. If you ever have a need Susan Garrett is a great resources for helping make crates desirable (http://www.amazon.com/Susan-Garretts-Crate-Self-Control-Motivation/dp/B0013GJJG6). In terms of feeding I have done both. The only advantage, I have found, to scheduled feeding is that their bathroom schedule is more predictable. The fact that you are asking questions makes me think your dog is one lucky dog. Enjoy!

Is he paws-y in general? He may need one at first that he can see inside of like the Busy Buddy "Kibble Nibble." Some dogs need a lot more encouragement and praise and excitement to see the fun in dispensing toys, including you pushing it around to get food to fall out. A regular Kong Classic with dry kibble inside is a good one to try too as food falls out easily. The more full the toy is, the easier the food falls out so have it full the first few times you use it.

If your dog just isn't into it, you can also try puzzles. Kyjen and Nina Ottosson have good ones. You can DIY with a muffin pan or egg carton.

Thank you, hooskerrr, for sharing your experience and your reaction to the video.

>Dunbar ridicules people for getting frustrated with their dogs, but he offers little or no solutions for the problems.

TED talks have to be pretty short, so they are more of an intro to a topic (for a general audience) than step-by-step directions. However, Ian Dunbar has written several books for dog owners, like this one, for example: Before and After Getting Your Puppy: The Positive Approach to Raising a Happy, Healthy, and Well-Behaved Dog.

Ian has made the first part of that book available for free as a pdf, so you can download that pdf and take a look at it.

Ian has also created a website called Dog Star Daily. It includes the Digital Dog Training Textbook which has all sorts of useful information for people who have dogs to train. Please take a look at the potty training information in that and see what you think. Possibly also of interest on the same site: errorless housetraining.

>Honestly, I don't think punishment is that bad an option.

Sticking to the topic of potty training, I could introduce you to a bunch of people whose experiences have indicated otherwise. For example, the owners of a boxer who hides (in the house!) to poop when nobody's looking. This dog was punished for pooping in the house. The message his human wanted to convey was "no pooping in the house! Only outside!" But the boxer thought the message was "he punishes me for pooping! So I must hide to poop, because I've gotta go and I'll get smacked if he sees me."

Punishment doesn't tell the dog what you do want him to do. Setting the dog up for success and then rewarding him for getting it right does tell the dog what you want him to do. The directions in Ian Dunbar's book and website give details on this whole process.

*edited to add a link.

I have a 6 month old ACD mix, so we're in the same boat! They LOVE to learn new things and are very easy to train for the most part. The problem with ours is carrying those skills over to distracting environments, as he wants to pay attention to everything besides me.

Doing all you can to give him as much exercise and mental stimulation as possible will go a loooong way. If you don't, he'll probably become a terror.

If you're not making him work for his food, you're doing it wrong! Get a Buster Cube or a Tug-A-Jug or any similar food toys. It will make him think, and it might help you separate his food from the other dog's.

You need to always make him sit or down or some other command before he gets his food. I usually make mine sit, then I put the food down, and he won't go eat it until I release him. Once he can do that, it should be pretty easy to keep him from eating your other dog's food.

Do as much training with him as possible. Working his mind will wear him out pretty fast. Games like 101 Things to do with a Box really make him think. Teach a bunch of commands and give him pop quizzes by doing a bunch of them in random order for 5-10 minutes.

One cool thing I did was buy one of those big inflatable balls for kids you always see at Target or Wal-Mart in those big tall bins. He LOVES it! He herds it around the yard and wears himself out and I don't have to do anything except kick it around every once in a while. It's also really cool to see his herding instincts kick in without ever being taught how to do it.

You also need to embrace his velcro dog qualities. ACDs are great off-leash dogs because they always want to be by you. Find an empty softball field, an empty dog park, any large area with a fence, and get to work on it!

Does your dog tend to bark more when you aren't around? If so, it might be helpful to record your voices and play that on loop so it seems like you're at home. I was lucky to get a good price on a [Manners Minder] (http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Treat-Remote-Reward-Trainer/dp/B0010B8CHG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409194417&sr=8-1&keywords=manners+minder). Sophia Yin designed it, and it's been great--it's a remote controlled treat dispenser, which helps a lot with "capturing" good behavior. Whenever there are any weird noises or voices, I discreetly press the button, so it actually seems like noises and people = magic treats to my dog. She no longer associates me being around with the treats, since I've been pressing the remote from outside the building also :-).

FWIW--I just moved to a new apartment, and previously it took a month to get my dog used to the new noises and stomping. Our new place is right across the street from some barking window dogs, and after three days of feeding my dog via remote, my dog is pretty calm and hardly responds to sounds.

• Lupine collars and leashes - they have a great guarantee of free replacement if the dog chews up the collar or leash. Perfect for puppies. You can find them in most specialty pet shops.
  
  
• Kibble Nibble - this is an interactive toy that I recommend feeding your puppy and grown up dog from. It keeps them busy and they have to work for their food.
  
  
• Nylabones - start with the puppy ones and when your pup starts getting adult teeth move on to the regular versions. Rotate teething toys so your pup always has something interesting to chew on.
  
  
• Sterilized Bones
  
  When you buy Kongs make sure you get the large or x-large size. Don't fall into the marketing scheme where you buy as they grow. Large Kongs are great because you can stuff all sorts of things in it to keep them busy.
  
  Kong Recipes
  
  If you have an Amazon Prime account I'd order a lot from them. Free shipping saves you a lot. If you don't have Amazon Prime then you should look at ordering from a bulk pet supply place like Pet Edge. You have to order $60 worth of stuff to avoid the surcharge but you can get some good deals depending on how expensive shipping is. I try to split an order with a friend to keep costs down.

I have used a no-pull harness for dogs that have needed leash training.

Something like this.

Anything that attaches in front of their chest will work better than a regular choke collar because it redirects the dog rather than increasing their nervous energy. Also, waiting for the dog to be calm before moving forward is a good idea. You may start giving the dog a treat once they are sitting calmly so they realize that calm behavior is good. I usually wait until my dog is sitting and giving me his attention before giving a treat and starting to walk again.

• You can hand feed/use meal times as training times. This is the recommended approach for any puppy. If your pup LOVES food he will likely work very hard to earn it. You can integrate some clicker training and work on basic skills like name/attention, sit, down, and leash skills.
  
  
• Use puzzle toys that will require him to think will FORCE him to slow down. IQ balls are fantastic for this! You can also stuff and freeze kongs with a bit of dry kibble + wet food and/or peanut only peanut butter. There are a variety of different puzzle toys out there (kong wobbler, buster cube, tug a jug, etc) - but the IQ ball was the only one that was really challenging enough for our dog not to 'game' the system. YMMV
  
  
• Feed smaller portions of food more often. Feed 5 or 6 meals instead of 2 or 3 more frequently throughout the day. Keep using your feeding tools - or you can use something like a muffin pan and cover the holes with tennis balls.
  
  Many puppies will do this as a matter of habit/necessity. They used to compete with their siblings for food so they had to eat fast and aggressively or they got nothing. Hand feeding is fantastic on so many levels - it teaches your dog that good things come from YOU not the magic bowl on the floor, gives you an opportunity to curb resource guarding in regards to food/the food bowl, allows you to work on training which is critical at this age and, most importantly, will slow your pup down!

I had the exact same problem with our puppy. She would bark as soon as we got out of sight, and we tried the leaving/coming back thing and it really didn't work. If we were in another room of the house, she would bark for HOURS, not just minutes.

We tried everything for months, and finally, I got an automatic treat dispenser. There are a few different ones out there, but the one I got was Manners Minder. A little expensive, but definitely worth it. I put it on top of her crate so that the treats drop in. It has a remote control, so I can control when the treat is given to her, and also has a mode to just dispense treats randomly.

I used this to aid my training. When I went out of sight, I clicked to give her a treat. Then I would randomly keep clicking it while I was away. It took her a couple of days, but she finally realized that good things happen when she's in the crate and I leave the room.

When I leave the house in the morning, I set it to automatically give her treats incrementally. We don't live in an apartment, so it doesn't bother our neighbors, so I have no idea if she barks throughout the day, but I know she doesn't bark anymore when I first walk out of the door.

Also, try doing some basic training. Train the stay command as much as you can. The more he is used to staying in one place not doing anything, the more he will be ok with staying in his crate when you're not there.

But yea, try out an automatic treat dispenser. It was a life saver for us.

I think I can help you with that. I have a big obstinate doggo too, and he's stronger than I am. He was a real pain in the butt on leash until only recently (he calmed down a bit when he turned two). I tried a bunch of leash/harness combinations and finally had success with the Rok strap and Easy Walk. What I like about the Rok leash is that it has two handles, one at the end and another right by where it clips to the dog.

This is useful for three reasons: (1) if doggo isn't cooperating, you can use the closer handle and have a lot more control over him. He will naturally need to stay right by your side, because he doesn't have room to roam. If he's behaving himself, you can let the leash out to give him more freedom. (2) He can't get enough momentum to hurt you. On a traditional leash, the dog will run and YANK on you when he reaches the end of the leash. If you're using the closer handle, he can't run as far. Less momentum = less force on you. (3) The leash is made with rubber, which means he will have to work a LOT harder to pull on the leash. More work = less reward.

Here's a photo of my dog on this harness + leash combo.
I hope that helps!

I highly recommend speaking with a certified trainer/behaviorist if you are worried about physical harm. Someone who is experienced in understanding dog body language could help you better understand when and why the aggression occurs, and especially how to alter this behavior.

For working on your own, the trainers we worked with highly suggested clicker training (here is an easy to follow book) and this book for clicker training to work on rehabilitation of aggressive dogs. We have a 90lb pit bull mix who was unresponsive to most other methods and the positive reinforcement and ability to "mark" desired behaviors immediately as with this training style really opened up a lot of doors for us. "Clicking with Your Dog" is laid out nicely with short sessions designed for shorter attention spans, and has suggestions for how to build up to each desired command from smaller ones. There is also a section with a sample daily schedule to show how you can work training into your daily routine, which is nice for people with busy schedules or those who don't prioritize devoting blocks of time to training. Training helped build a strong relationship with our dog and made him more of a family member; spending time training your dog could help you to feel a bond with your dog and not just like a guy whose job is to walk her.

Two years old is very commonly the age when insecurity starts to crystallize into aggressive behavior. Aggression has lots of little signals along the way before this phase, but you simply didn't have the tools to recognize it. So, I suggest studying dog body language. While consulting a behaviorist to tutor you in this endeavor will certainly speed up the learning process, you can start this on your own. Long term, learning to read your dog yourself is always the most effective solution because you're the one with him/her all the time. Consider, though, that you'll also need to learn to read other dogs' body language so you can spot the personality-types and body language that make are most compatible with your own dog.

Here are some recommendations:

• Turid Rugaas - "Calming Signals: What Your Dog Tells You"
  
  
• Brenda Akoff - Canine Body Language: A Photographic Guide Interpreting the Native Language of the Domestic Dog
  
  
• And, a subscription to Tawzer Dog, or something like it. These streaming services provide access to a library of dog training educational seminars.
  
  Hope this helps!

Take a read of this on the topics of desensitization and counter conditioning. You'll want to start working just under her threshold. If she'll get to the door, play a treat game there (get it is a great one). Once she's comfortable there, go to her next threshold, etc, etc.

It would also help to play outside sounds using YouTube, and do the same thing. Start quiet and figure out at want point she's triggered and work just below that.

This book is helpful for techniques too.

> Ignore bad behaviour.

(Just clarifying for the OP, because I imagine that /u/livmaj already knows what follows:) "Ignoring the bad" isn't referring to allowing the bad behaviour to happen and then just not doing anything to stop it when it happens. Actually, I much prefer how Kathy Sdao talks about this in her book Plenty In Life is Free: Reward the behaviours you want, prevent access to reinforcement for the behaviours you don't. A lot of "bad dog" behaviours are in themselves rewarding to the dog (think of all the yummy things that are in the trash!), so it's important to set up the environment in a way that prevents the dog from doing it in the first place. Put trash cans in cupboards or behind closed doors where he can't reach them, keep your shoes in a closed closet, etc.

And if the dog is in the middle of destroying your shoe, you don't just let him keep destroying it - but don't scold or punish for it either. Identify how he got the shoe, and work to rectify that gap in your management. I also found it helpful to play trading games and teach my puppy a "Can I see it cue?" so that rather than me taking things away from her, she happily carries them over them and gives them to me in exchange for a treat. Sometimes she has something that's totally fine for her to have, so I give it back to her and this is really important so that the dog learns that it won't always be taken away when they "share" with you. I also prefer this method because, once the trade behaviour is solid, it prevents the dog from either turning it into a game of keep-away or from dropping it at a distance and picking it up again unlike teaching a straight "drop it" (which was more difficult for me to train and proof than a trade anyway).

Ye ask and ye shall receive. Here are some good resources to learn more about leash/barrier reactivity:

Books

• Fiesty Fido - Patricia McConnell
  
  
• Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt
  
  
• Fired Up, Frantic, and Freaked Out by Laura VanArendonk Baugh
  
  Websites
  
  
• Mutt About Town - Leash Reactivity
  
  
• Dr. Jen's From Crazy To Calm Training Plan
  
  
• CARE for Reactive Dogs
  
  
• Dogs In Need of Space
  
  Videos (These are mostly to techniques to help with reactivity)
  
  
• Teaching "Let's Go"
  
  
• Giving in to leash pressure
  
  
• Stop barking on a walk
  
  
• How to get your reactive dog under control on a walk
  
  
• Teaching "Look at that" to build handler focus and eye contact
  
  Edit for formatting

There's a bunch on Amazon. Just search for dog puzzles. For my dog I have:

• traditional kong toy that I put peanut butter in which I leave with her in her crate
  
  
• a snuffle mat that she loves. She gets both meals using it. She's super nose driven so she took to it right away. Some dogs will just flip it over tho. I'd recommend just putting in a couple pieces at a time to start so he gets a feel for it.
  
  
• a ball thing I put kibble in that she needs to roll around to get kibble out. I don't use it much since she likes her snuffle mat so much.
  
  
• her favorite chew is an antler I picked up at a pet store.
  
  
• bully sticks on occasion. Mainly if she's really riled up. I'll put her in her crate with it to calm her down. It'll keep her occupied for 20-30 minutes and usually brings down the energy level.
  
• don't forget just plain old training. Techniques like free shaping can really get their brain working (look up "101 things to do with a box" and "two feet on the box" for examples).

>Can anyone recommend a specific reading source or strategy for us to begin with?

I love these four the most:

1.) (Free) CARE for Reactive Dogs - careforreactivedogs.com
2.) Click to Calm - https://www.amazon.com/Click-Calm-Healing-Aggressive-Dog-ebook/dp/B008510I5S/ref=pd_sim_351_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=

3.) (free) Relaxation Protocol - http://championofmyheart.com/relaxation-protocol-mp3-files/
4.) TYTV68ZND5W25S0ZH1XHGrisha Stewart's Behavior Adjustment Training (BAT) - https://www.amazon.com/Behavior-Adjustment-Training-2--Frustration-ebook/dp/B01BG05UAW/ref=tmm_kin_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1525694710&sr=8-1

I have a papillon mix and they are so much fun to train! I do agility with my pup, and you are going to love it. :)

You could do nosework at home, or teach different "practical" tricks (put your toys away into a basket, fetch a newspaper, close the door etc.).

We also play the "101 things to do with a box" game with clicker training. This one is particularly fun because the dog gets to offer random behaviors, and you never know what your pup might be capable of. With this game, we've inadvertently taught our dog "paw at that" and "get in the box".

Edit: I wanted to mention that one of the few drawbacks with having a smart, "gotta have a job to do" dog means that you need to be mindful of keeping them from getting bored. We feed our dog all of his meals using various food toys/puzzles and that will usually keep him occupied for a while.

We bought a puzzle feeding bowl and never looked back, they are cheap on amazon, under $10. If your dog is high energy (mine is) then it’s perfectly fine to feed all meals in devices that make your dog work for the food (this advice came from our trainer). It helps tire them out and they eat slower. It’s very common for us to feed our dog from this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001F0RRUA/ref=mp_s_a_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1524460063&sr=8-27&keywords=dog+treat+ball . I know the reviews are not amazing but the small one works great for our dog. I do not recommend the large, it comes unscrewed to easy. A lot of people like the kong wobbler but our dog doesn’t get it. Frozen Kong’s only work for us if it’s a mix of wet food and dry. We have this one too which works well but is a bit of a pain to fill an entire meal in. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003YHB8EI/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1524460313&sr=8-15&keywords=dog+treat+dispenser

On the digging, set up a dig box for her. Put goodies in it, so it's really rewarding and direct her there or bring her inside if she digs anywhere else.

If you haven't clicked on it on the sidebar yet How to choose a Trainer. Never be afraid to say no to what a trainer is telling you to do if you think it will harm your dog. Never hand over the leash if you think a trainer is going to do something that could harm your dog (English Bulldog puppy dies after "correction" in PetCo training class ) just something to keep in mind.

If she's fixating on other animals in the house you may want to use Umbilical Training, where the puppy is tethered to you. If she starts to fixate, call her and walk away, no pick-up needed. Also very useful for potty training. Dr. Yin has many, many excellent puppy training resources on her website, and her book 7 Days to the Perfect Puppy is my go-to guide for new puppy owners.

On the mouth play, teach her how to play with her mouth. Tug is a great game for this. Teach The Rules of Tug for all mouth play.

I loved this book by Dr. Yin since it gives a great schedule on what to do in the first week!


Teaching cues is great - but also spend a lot of time and energy on positive handling, touching ears, being restrained at the vet, etc. Getting started early on nail clipping is a big one.

>without warning they went for each other.

There may have been some warning that you were unaware of. Have a look into dog body language.

The book Canine Body Language: A Photographic Guide may help you read your dog (and others) and then you can control or remove him from the situation before things get out of hand. I found this book extremely helpful in many aspects of helping my rescue beagle (he'd been abused and wasn't very socialised).

Depending on where you live, Amazon may not be your cheapest option once freight is included (For me, book depository was best even though the actual book was more expensive - they have free shipping)

We just got a WalkyDog Plus that we're training our dog to use.

The pole attaches to your bike seat so you're free to safely keep both hands on the bike, and it keeps the dog at a distance so it can't get in front of or behind the bike. It does require training to get the dog used to moving with the bike, but so far we like it.

Even just snail pacing around an empty parking structure is more than enough to exhaust her for now. The added bonus is she's learning that paying attention to where we're steering is crucial to her safety.

The only downside so far is that if she pulls a certain way and doesn't match pace with the bike's speed, she can move the seat post attachment. But that's why we're slowly training her to keep pace with the bike.

I've read Culture Clash and Don't Shoot the Dog and both are quite excellent. The Amazon reviews are better than anything I could say:

Culture Clash

Don't Shoot the Dog

Also, my wife is reading the latest Karen Pryor book and liked it quite a lot, too (we're into clicker training):

Reaching the Animal Mind

For a simple solution try http://www.amazon.com/pet-supplies/dp/B0009ZBKG4. The collar really prevents them from pulling. We've had our dog on it for a few weeks and really noticed an improvement. We first heard about it from a dog trainer. Good luck!

It could be a mixture of things. My BC's dog tolerance dropped significantly around 6-7 months so we stopped taking him to play with other dogs. After a couple of months, I took him back to the dog park and his tolerance was significantly better. Your dog could just be going through an angsty phase or he just might not like the company of other dogs or his tolerance of poor behavior might be low.

I think you should get a behaviorist (positive reinforcement only) to assess any issues that might arise because of the attack. Better safe than sorry.

Also start doing some reading on dog body language. Dog show very subtle signs that they are grumpy/upset/scared. This book is a great resource.

For the time being, I would suggest you stop letting your dog off it's leash until you figure out/work on a solution.

You are 100% correct that this is a horrible approach for your dog's particular issues. At absolute best, the behavior will be suppressed but your dog's fear/anxiety will worsen and is essentially a ticking time bomb that could explode and bite someone at any time. Put your foot down and refuse to see this trainer again - it's your dog, not your in-laws. I can assure them that no certified behaviorist would condone this type of training. The best approach is gradual counter-conditioning - teaching him that the things that make him react fearfully/aggressively are actually safe and good things to be around. Check out the book Feisty Fido - it's a fantastic (and relatively short) read geared toward this issue.

Ian Dunbar's "Before You Get Your Puppy" and "Before and After Getting Your Puppy".

The second one is a bit more geared towards after, so it's worth getting both.

I'll second the nod to Dr. Yin as well. She has a lot of free info on her site that is good to keep on hand.

How is your GSD with bicycles? You can train your dog to run alongside a bike with an attachment like this. Its easier on you and your husband than running for several miles but can be great exercise for you and your pup.

Our dog Suki was actually really bike reactive and we were able to get her to the point where even she can run along with the bike, so even if your dog is startled by bikes its possible to train them to be cool with running along with one.

Hi and thanks for replying. Your information is offering me good insight into what I need. I was looking at these two books: http://www.amazon.com/Leader-Pack-And-have-Your-Love/dp/189176702X/ref=la_B001ILMAOY_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1341528918&sr=1-3 and http://www.amazon.com/Before-After-Getting-Your-Puppy/dp/1577314557/ref=la_B001K83EFO_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341528963&sr=1-1

The puppy and my dog have established their pack order today it seems like. For the most part he was limping or had a cone on the entire week, so my dog was avoiding him. Now that he's had the cone off for a day, she has established dominance with him and they are hunting in my back yard, running in patterns already Lol.

Two things:

Check out the book Control Unleashed. The puppy one is probably best for you, but also for anyone, because it's an easier read (according to my trainer).

Have some really "high value" treats available to get your puppy's attention. Walk away if you have to. There's not going to be a simple fast fix that automatically snaps your pup into non-play mode. It takes time and patience. Someone on here once said "I have more patience than my dog." I have to constantly repeat this to myself.

I always recommend Before and After Getting Your Puppy by Ian Dunbar (replace the word 'Puppy' with 'Dog' and all of the information in the book applies to dogs of all ages). It isn't the perfect book on raising your dog, but it's pretty close.

I hope this helps!

I would break it down and from a plan, maybe by priority or ease of training:

1. Destroys stuff at home
   
2. Reactive to loud sounds
   
3. Reactive to...
   a. dogs
   b. strangers (walking, biking, etc?)
   
4. Resource guarding
   
   I would check the books part in the wiki but I'll specifically mention this for the aggression/reactivity:
   https://www.amazon.com/Behavior-Adjustment-Training-2-0-Frustration/dp/1617811742
   
   Check out these videos, they should give you some hope. He uses BAT:
   https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHG3NYUNiEMiMlNy56VuAqjFK2I9uR3YU
   
   For storms that sounds classical conditioning can help with where you want to change your dogs emotional response. Here is an example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2vx2q5RDRI

It sounds as if he's getting you trained. lol Dr. Sophia Yin created this awesome remote training device. You may want to try something like this out, to let you be away from him, instead of running down the stairs at his command. :)

I don't know how we lived without snuffle mats.

This is the best one you can buy that I'm aware of for meal feeding and regular use. We've had a couple for a long time and machine wash them frequently and they've held up beautifully. I personally wouldn't waste my money on a fleece one.

I’ve been feeding my dog using only puzzle toys. I bought this puzzle toy and he’s super into it. There are sooo many of these puzzle food dispensers. Maybe she’d be into playing with something that dispenses her food :)

I've just received the treat and train. I haven't used it yet, but the dvd that comes with it addresses the barking-at-the-door issue using the remote food dispenser. It's a device that beeps and emits treats and it comes with detailed foolproof instructions on how to teach your dog to settle on a mat when someone walks in the door. It might be something to look into if your dog is food motivated.

Someone has already posted a Zak George video on this, which you should try.

Also, what type of collar/harness are you using? The opposition reflex in some dogs can be VERY strong.

I've been trying for months to get my puller to stop. One thing that helped me a lot was a front hooking harness. I am using the PetSafe EasyWalk harness.

http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4

Properly fitting this had helped a ton. We can now take walks his first instinct isn't to pull against the harness.

The cool thing I discovered is all the no pulling training I had been working on he actually knows. He just couldn't get over that pull reflex.

Walks in the evening have been very enjoyable since!

This harness does not choke or gag my dog, and when he pulls to hard it draws his attention back to me so I can guide him properly.

I agree with mental stimulation. I'm always home with my corgi and give him lots of exercise and socialization outside but he loves food toys for mental stimulation and it makes his meals last so much longer.

We use these for kibble: http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Buddy-Tug-A-Jug-Dispensing-Medium/dp/B000KV7ZGQ

http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Bob-A-Lot-Interactive-Pet-Large/dp/B001JQLNB4

http://www.amazon.com/Buster-Food-Cube-Large-Colors/dp/B0006G54OU/ref=pd_sim_199_6?ie=UTF8&dpID=41NL87Y8KbL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1N6FCHDFXGVVTQFF7HAG

and we use these for treats:
http://www.petsmart.com/dog/toys/martha-stewart-pets-treat-dispensing-bone-dog-toy-zid36-19474/cat-36-catid-100118

http://www.fordogtrainers.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5245

http://www.amazon.com/Starmark-Treat-Dispensing-Jack-Medium/dp/B00L61279E

I was thinking about getting this for my GSD/Husky mix - supposedly it works great and the shock absorption for sudden movements works great!

> I just switched to part time work while going to school to become a dog trainer.

I would use this time to teach your dog some REALLY cool tricks from the couch!

Also, I read you have some treat balls - have you tried this treat ball? my dog finds this one the hardest, along with this one.

Get well soon!

Thanks! This is all good stuff! I'm ordering the video today but since it won't get here for a while, can you give an example of what I can do with the crate pan?

I've tried a couple soft treats and a couple hard treats but they only work briefly. I'll be getting some "high value treats" today; they use hot dog in the video so maybe that.

edit: is this the same video as your link?

I got a walky-dog for my heeler mix after we moved to Chicago and it's been wonderful. It keeps him at my side & has a bungee so when he inevitably tries to go after a squirrel he doesn't take me with him. I always recommend it to anyone looking to get into biking with their dog. That being said, I only need it because Phil gets distracted easily and will try and take off to the side from time to time. If you think you can train her to keep at your side it probably wouldn't be necessary!

My mom'a husky mix likes this treat dispenser rope thing and I've had several large breed fosters like this egg treat dispenser thing

I think what works for your dog probably depends on his preferences and chew intensity. If you're not solely interested in treat/food dispensers, you might look into some of the scent training aids. You can buy animal scents in liquid form, and you basically put a few drops on a piece of scrap fabric and hide it as a game. My beagle loved it when he was younger. I put it in a kong or kong-like toy then hide the toy. Of course, I'd never leave it hidden unattended. They still have scent hound competitions so there's quite a bit of information out there about training.

This is another fantastic book that I always recommend to people.
http://www.amazon.com/The-Culture-Clash-Revolutionary-Understanding/dp/1888047054

In addition to the kong, I use a food ball dispenser to feed my dog a lot of the time. It doesn't fully tire him out, but it helps burn some of that energy.

Here is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Kibble-Nibble-Dispensing-Medium/dp/B001F0RRUA/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1396221697&sr=1-3&keywords=dog+food+ball

Are you talking about this book?

I have a similar problem as OP, except I'm not the one with the dog, it is my MIL. She got a two year old chihuahua/doxie in November who isn't housebroken and is very dog reactive on walks.

DH and I are temporarily living with MIL while we prepare to move out of state in a few months, and I'm concerned with what I see. Commute and work time have her away from home for 11-12 hours on weekdays. When she gets home around 7 in the evening, the dog begs to spend time with her and all she wants to do is sit on her ass and veg. On Saturdays, she takes the dog to the dog park for 2-3 hours, but she's not playing with the dog, she's chatting with the other owners, and when she comes home, the rest of the weekend is spent sitting on her ass. She gets upset with me when I tell her she needs to play with her dog. When she gets home from work and grabs food to eat and the dog is begging for her attention (she does not beg for food, she doesn't seem to like people food) MIL says, "she can learn to be ignored for a bit." This pissed me off because...she is ignored all day due to everyone working. DH and I get home earlier than she does, but the dog prefers her, and it is her dog, so she needs to pay attention to her.

As far as housebreaking, she'll go outside when on a walk (20-30 min walk) and then come back inside and pee on a potty pad. She usually goes in one of three spots, but sometimes, she'll just go wherever. MIL bought some special carpet cleaner that's supposed to remove the pheromones so they won't want to go in that spot anymore, and a fake grass thing, but neither have worked. What's more is that IN FEB the vet said she might have a UTI. Vet gave antibiotics but still said to collect a sample and bring it in. MIL never did that, and I'm sure the dog does have a UTI.

At this point, it's clear to me that MIL has neither the time nor desire to properly care for the dog and she shouldn't have gotten her. If the dog were a human, the conditions would be considered neglect. But I've said all this to her and it hasn't seemed to have any effect. She tends to put more worth into things she's read, so I'm hoping giving her a book will help her understand some things. Is Culture Clash a good book for her? I'm hoping she'll come to an understanding at some point because I feel so bad for the dog, and if life circumstances were different, I'd try to take the dog and care for her, but we just can't.

I'm working on the same problem with our min pin. I picked up Fiesty Fido which came highly recommended. The techniques in the book definitely help, however it's still a work-in-progress for me (been working on it for about 4 months now). Basically as long as I spot other dog more than a block away, I can employ some of the strategies with my dog, and get her to be calm. However, if the dog pops up around the corner, she gets wayyyyyy too excited and the only course of action is the "U-Turn" and running the opposite direction.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

BAT 2.0

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

My recommendations - Great for all levels:

Puppy Start Right



Plenty in Life is Free - Kathy Sdao

Click to Calm - Emma Parsons

Apologies for delayed response. Just saw this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010B8CHG/ref=asc_df_B0010B8CHG5263719/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B0010B8CHG&linkCode=df0&hvadid=218543830990&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2474541849567432655&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011703&hvtargid=pla-355745058183

It's quite pricey, but was well worth it. Especially considering the amount of treats I would have had to buy, additional trainer or behavioral consult sessions. I have gotten away with just using kibble to get the results I've needed with this device.

• The Culture Clash
  
• Don't Shoot the Dog!
  
• On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals

I had the same issue with my lab retriever. I tried using the Halti collar and harness and we couldn't walk more than 5 feet without Chester trying to pull it off his face. I know you said you tried harnesses and so did I and I found this one works best for us. As soon as I put it on he stopped pulling.

Karen Pryor i-Click Dog Training Clicker, 3 Clickers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LAS2KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4MJnxb1HNP1DB

These are pretty quiet.

Here it is on Amazon. It tightens on the chest instead of the neck when the dogs pulls and throws them off-balance. Works very well and much more humane. Just watch out, the first time I put it on my husky, I got distracted and she chewed it off in about a minute haha.

Patricia McConnell does good short books about dog training. Feisty Fido addresses your issue (she's great)

sorry - totally spaced on this!!

this is my personal favorite, but we also rotate between the following:

kibble nibble

tug a jug - but we removed the rope

buster cube - this one is pretty tricky and may frustrate pups new to feeding from a meal dispensing toy

I use this one, which has stood up to a TON of abuse and holds more food than the ball-shaped ones (though probably less than the large kong wobbler). It's great and very engaging since they have to both turn it upside down and then right side up to dispense the food.

https://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4

Something like this. There are lots of different ones

This is a complex issue that requires a good amount of knowledge and work on your part.

In this case, I'd break out the books, then hire a professional trainer that has experience in dealing with fearful dogs.

• The Cautious Canine-How to Help Dogs Conquer Their Fears by Patricia B. McConnell (this is more a booklet, than a book, but has good info nonetheless
  
• Help for Your Fearful Dog: A Step-by-Step Guide to Helping Your Dog Conquer His Fears by Nicole Wilde (this is a book, and a darn good one
  
  You'll find a whole list of articles for "Fearful Dogs" on the ASPCA's Pet Behaviorist page.
  
  And lastly, you can use the trainer search from the Association of Professional Dog Trainers.

It sounds like she's over threshold if she's not taking treats- she too freaked out in the moment to learn or for you to implement effective counter conditioning. It's all fear.

I would suggest looking into Behavioral Adjustment Training (BAT). Basically, you start by determining the dog's threshold level. Once you know it, you keep them under threshold and use a counter conditioning strategy to desensitize them to the thing that frightens them. If they're above threshold, they can't learn & won't be reassured. Here's the link to a great book on the method. I would also explore r/reactivedogs for more advice & resources!

My dog would do the same thing. He is supper sound oriented with his food. The one I found he liked was this one. He could see the food and he could hear the food and I could dial up the difficulty when needed. Might be worth a shot.

Dogs need two types of exercise, physical and mental. Although what you are doing with him does have a lot of mental stimulation it's mostly physical. Spend some time every morning and evening doing some type of training, either a new trick, or reinforcing the things he already knows.

Also get toys that will keep his mind active. I feed my dog with this every evening. You could also try a Snuffle mat.

I've found that most dogs chew because they're either bored or they teething. Keeping them active both physically and mentally will help cut a lot of unwanted chewing. After that just keep consistent and when you find them chewing on something they are not supposed to chew give them something they can.

It's up to us to teach them what is or is not allowed, they eventually catch on, but sometimes it can take a bit.

For the dog aggression, we're seeing improvement with this method: https://www.amazon.com/Feisty-Fido-Help-Leash-Reactive-Dog/dp/1891767070

Get one of these.

They lose all leverage against you. With an easy pull you can turn them around and thus control them much better on a walk.

But, the sniffing for some dogs is a difficult thing to break

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077BTNFS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1892694263/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use Karen Pryor clickers because they're inexpensive and small. I tend to give them away.

https://smile.amazon.com/Perfect-Puppy-Days-Start-Right-ebook/dp/B005FR0OEA

https://smile.amazon.com/How-Behave-Your-Dog-Behaves/dp/0793806445

https://www.amazon.com/Cautious-Canine-How-Conquer-Their-Fears/dp/1891767003

My border collie pup really enjoys this. I make him work for his dinner and breakfast. It has helped loads in turning down his destructive behaviors.

If you live in an area where a lot of people keep their dogs off leash, you have to take precautions with your dog, and you need to forget feeling embarrassed about it right now. You have to do what is necessary to keep your dog safe and other dogs safe, and you also can't sacrifice your dog's exercise.

Here's a way to let people know your dog isn't dog-friendly without even having to say it: Amazon: "NERVOUS" yellow warning leash. You can also get leashes that say "NO DOGS" or "CAUTION."

Use a front-clip harness on your dog and be polite and friendly with people. Carry a crap ton of treats with you so you can distract your dog whenever an off-leash dog approaches.

I highly recommend you read a (very short) book called Feisty Fido by Patricia B. McConnell.

She is probably lunging to preemptively scare other dogs away, because they scare her and she just wants to get them to leave her alone. She tried lunging and it worked, so she keeps doing it. I would recommend this book, I have used it in the past with great results. Essentially you want her to look at you when you see another dog, instead of focusing on the dog.

Use a specially made attachment like Walkydog or Springer to physically attach your dog to the bike. Use a comfy non-restrictive harness on the dog for this attachment point. That way, dog can move normally, but when the dog pulls it doesn't make you fall or crash.

I'd also personally hold a leash connected to a collar for finer control, but the big thing is you don't want the dog's full weight to be able to pull on your arms or handlebars.

Try an easy walk front clip harness. You will still have to do the whole stopping when she pulls and treating for good behavior, but it makes it harder for her to pull and will kind of make her twist when she pulls. You could also try a face lead harness, but if they are used incorrectly you can hurt your dog. They are fairly inexpensive and helped a lot with my terrier mix.

http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1375216242&sr=1-1&keywords=easy+walk+harness

My rescue terrier is a nervous chewer and is super destructive with toys, but we can't give him chews like bully sticks because he's on a restricted diet and he can't have bones because he has broken teeth (he hit the jackpot of bad luck). We've found that the only toy he hasn't been able to chew through is his Chuck-It ball - When we're not using it for fetch he'll often just chew on it like a bone; he's had that thing since day 1 and 5 months later hasn't even broken the slightest piece off.

Aside from that, puzzle games will help with the anxiety. Besides Kongs, you can try something like this ball which dispenses kibble or treats as the dog rolls it around.

If you're considering using one at all please read this article so you understand what it does to your dog and how dangerous it can be if used improperly. Personally, as someone with a reactive dog (one who "freaks out" at other dogs), I would never use a head halter with her because it would only make her panicking worse. Instead we are working to teach her that other dogs approaching isn't scary, and we use a front clip harness to work on her pulling.

I'm a big fan of the book "click to calm", its written for aggressive dogs but I've found it invaluable dealing with any kind of fearful or nervous dog.
http://www.amazon.com/Click-Calm-Healing-Aggressive-Clicker/dp/1890948209

I think it's a combination. The junkyard dog doesn't sound well-socialized, so there's going to be some conflict as they establish boundaries. But you keeping your dog on a tight leash because you think there might be a problem is also going to cause some conflict, because that likely tells your dog that there's something to worry about (because he picks up on your fear) and that he can't escape (because his leash is suddenly tightened) so he's more likely to react like a cornered animal (ie. aggression) rather than normal socializing. It's very possible that there was originally some tension, but you escalate it by freaking out.

I'm not trying to be hard on you. I have an aggressive dog so totally understand. But seriously, clutching up on the leash when you see a scary dog is the worst thing you can do. I recommend Click to Calm as a starting point, as well as the links /u/KillerDog posted about why dominance theory isn't really applicable to dogs. IME with fear aggression (which sounds like is likely the case with your dog), "dominating" the dog can exacerbate the situation.