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So the good news is that the engine in your bike (the aircooled two valve, or "desmodue") is about the simplest and easiest to maintain of all the modern Ducati engines. I have the same one in my Scrambler and it's really quite simple. You also don't have a ton of fairings or whatever covering stuff up.

So, with a fairly basic set of tools you can certainly learn to do your routine maintenance yourself. For basic tools, you'll want a basic "mechanic's" tool set that includes Metric sizing, and both sockets and "allen wrenches." You can piece this together or buy something like this that'll have just about everything you need. You'll also need some torque wrenches. I have this one for higher torque stuff and this one for lower. They're not the super awesomest in the world but they're just fine.

Let's look at a couple of simple jobs:

Chain Maintenance

This is one you'll want to be doing every 500 - 600 miles or so. You can do this without a rear stand, but it is MUCH easier with one.

Required tools:

A chain brush (I use this one from Tirox)

Chain Cleaner (I use Motul Chain Clean)

Chain lube (I use Motul lube )

Some nitrile gloves because yuck, and some cardboard to prop up between the chain and the wheel / tire. You DO NOT want chain lube on your tire.

Optional is a rear stand. Everyone will yell Pitbull, which are great but expensive. I didn't want to go ultra cheapo, so I ended up with a set of Pro II stands from GPI Industries. They were like $100 on sale.

Basically, you put the bike up on the rear stand, stick some cardboard between the chain and the wheel, hose it down with cleaner, brush it off, blot it off, and hose it down with lube. When I'm done I typically put the bike back on the sidestand and check for proper chain slack as well, just because.

Oil Changes

These are "officially" a 7500 mile deal on our bikes, but I'm conservative and do it at about half that.

Required tools:

An oil filter wrench. You'll need a 76mm octagonal one. I use this one and it's fine.

You'll also need oil, a filter, and a few O-rings and gaskets. The easiest way to get all this stuff is to go to Ducati Omaha (who are sponsors here and will give you 5% off and free shipping with the code in the sticky thread) and order an oil change kit for your bike. They'll even include the Ducati filter wrench for like $10.

You'll also need an oil drain pan and a way to transport the old oil to an auto parts store or other place that will properly dispose of it. PLEASE do not do something stupid like pouring it in the gutter or putting it in your trash.

This is another job that's made incredibly easier by putting the bike up on the rear stand.

There's a good walkthrough of how to do it here. This is on a Scrambler, but again it's the same engine. Note that this walkthrough includes checking the mesh filter which isn't strictly required every time. If you don't do that part all the things about taking the exhaust off aren't applicable. If you're not doing that part all you need to do is drain the oil, swap the filter, and re fill.

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There are other jobs you can easily learn to do yourself, like brake pads and fluid, but if you start by learning to do chain maintenance and oil changes you'll have most of the stuff you need. The other thing I would recommend is to get yourself a nice set of bike washing stuff, and spend time every few weeks cleaning your machine. It's a good way to get familiar with what's where and what it should all look like "normally."

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Here is my advice, I own two matte bikes. I prefer them to gloss finishes but you must take care of it obviously.

The only 2 chemicals that should ever touch the paint is
http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Beasleys-MP20D12-Matte-Cleanser/dp/B005FQVYT0 and Harley Denim cleaner.

Keep the matte cleanser on hand, use it like you would a clay bar on a normal finish. If you get hard water spots, tar, or overspray this is the stuff that will clean it off without damaging the finish. After every ride just wipe down with Harley denim cleaner. I like the Harley stuff and it is easy to get with so many local dealers.

If you prefer a deeper color, and a bit of shine you can use Plexus. It gives the finish a semi-gloss look.

Some other tips, don't skimp on the microfiber you use. Purchase high quality microfiber towels. Cobra miracle microfiber towels are good. Keep them clean.

Don't neglect your wheels. You should seal them with Duragloss 105 and 601. Clean the wheels really we'll with dawn dish soap then mix the 105 and 601 together in a 4:1 ratio. You only need to seal them about once a year, keep them clean them with a quick detailer.

agreeing with everything /u/Alfa_Alesi said, but just my suggestion to help the situation you're currently in;

1. remove the tank from the bike, drain and dry the inside of the it thoroughly (im talking hot air blowing through it for about 24 hours type of dry)
   
   
2. clean the inside with a dry lint free or micro-fiber cloth and remove all internal components
   
   
3. order you up some caswell tank sealant and follow the directions on that bad boy
   
   
4. do your best to search for non-ethanol gas stations in your area and stick with those.
   
   it really depends on where you are, some places in the USA have next to none in a 500 mile radius, and some places have 'em on every corner. where i live here they're really sparse, so i keep a few of the 5 gallon cans in my garage and just top off my bike every time i go for a ride.
   
   Here's a site that helps. but if you can't find non-ethanol close by, the fuel treatment stuff is your next best choice. i haven't used any myself yet, so i can't entirely recommend a particular product for ya. i just stick with non-ethanol stations exclusively.
   
   oh and for long term storage, (say maybe over the winter) keeping the tank completely full will help prevent that spotting, and fuel stabilizer helps the gas from going rotten.
   
   hope this all helps

Hey, scrotch!

I only now remembered, "Wait, I was supposed to respond to that Redditr's comment!" I am 26 years old with the memory of a perpetually stoned grandpa'.

Onto the nitty-gritty:

• A voltage meter is a great idea! Since our bikes are a bit temperamental with electricity, I eventually decided it was a worthwhile instrument to add to the bike. And good call on the R/R; the stock unit is poorly designed, evidently. I like the upgrade to the LED lights; less draw but brighter. I always thought the stock ones lacked the necessary attraction to other drivers during night. You can also upgrade the instrument cluster lights to LED ones. Someone has a write-up on that on ducati.ms
  
  
• Yes it does require welding. My bike is currently getting the works and I do not have pictures of my setup, but my friend snapped a few pictures of his project.
  
  IIRC, I purchased an AEM (30-4110) UEGO. It came with the Lambda Sensor Unit 4.9. All that was required was having a bung welded into the header and a way to mount the gauge.
  
  For us carb'y owners, especially those with split FCRs, this makes tuning our carbs more exact than our butt-dyno, and less costly than hours on the dyno. It's a wide-band, so it gives accurate readings between 10:1 and 20:1.

The starting circuit description made me think, "meth is one hell of a drug." R / R replacement was a good idea as it was only a matter of time before it would fail. The best one you can purchase is a Shindengen MOSFET from Roadster Cycle.

Haynes is is a waste of money, but I have one. This manual blows every other manual out of the water, including our beloved LT's manual. I also have a PDF of the Ducati shop manual for the M900 if you like.

Do you know of Brad Black? If you ever want to modify your M750 he has a few evidence-based write-ups for it.

The silver lining in this is that you have the improved cylinder studs that don't become brittle and crack. Removing broken cylinder studs was simply not enjoyable for me. Even if that did happen to you, you could access those without dropping the motor. Not on my 944SS -_-

Also, while those Mikunis are designed to last, I am morally obligated to encourage you to purchase FCRs, specifically 39s for your bike. It really does transform our bikes.

PS - My friend is a Ducati master technician who now works for GP Suspension in soCal. He saw 3 D16s with broken crankshaft (not a typo). Just a heads up, since it sounds like you've already paid your dues =)

Haha. Only the most discerning customer deserves these earplugs sir. (rich guy laugh)

Honestly, they are pretty nice. You still hear sound normally, not that plugged up feeling you get with the orange scrunchies

https://smile.amazon.com/Eargasm-Musicians-Motorcycles-Sensitivity-Disorders/dp/B01LDSPSPO/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1499578502&sr=8-3&keywords=eargasm+high+fidelity+earplugs

Yes, SAE is what battery tender's use to trickle charge, buy one of these and it will let you tap power to charge your phone or GPS.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412858538&sr=8-1&keywords=SAE+to+usb

I personally use this instead so I can plug it up at the triple tree.
http://www.amazon.com/Weatherproof-Charger-Socket-Battery-Tender/dp/B00HQ5KY8U/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1412858538&sr=8-4&keywords=SAE+to+usb

Here is another that goes from SAE to cigaret
http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-8-Cigarette-Disconnect/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1412858538&sr=8-6&keywords=SAE+to+usb


They are very useful when going on long trips when you don't know the roads. I love having the ram mount.
http://ducati1199.com/ducati-1199/18926-ram-mount-iphone-2.html

Carb synching is pretty straightforward, and can be done with or without a carb synch tool. I have a CarbTune Pro as I wanted one that did not use liquid.

Without a carb synch tool, you can do a "bench sync." A bench sync means you remove the carbs and adjust the butterflies manually so they open at exactly the same time. You can accomplish this by either filling the carb (where the butterfly is) with gas / brake clean / etc. and adjusting the adjuster screws so when the throttle actuator BARELY opens, the fluid begins to drop at the same time. Alternately you can do it by eye, or use a thin piece of wire or something similar that's held by the butterfly while the throttle is closed and falls upon opening. The biggest issue you want to address is to get them both to open initially at the exact same time.

A carb tune simply helps you adjust this whilst on the bike w/ the bike running and you can verify things are good at various RPM ranges.

If you're looking to tune the suspension on your stock bike, I'd suggest making sure that you first understand what you are about to do. I like this book a lot:

http://www.amazon.com/Sportbike-Suspension-Tuning-Andrew-Trevitt/dp/1893618455

Adjusting the pre-load for your weight is likely the most important tuning that you will ever do on a bike intended for casual riding. Depending on how aggressively you ride, you'd probably be completely fine if you never touch any of the tuning away from stock settings.

One suggestion that I will make is to make sure that you have the rear brake configured so that it's difficult to lock up the rear tire. When I got my monster, I felt like the brake lever was too high up and adjusting made using the rear brake feel better for me. Your manual has instructions for adjusting all of the controls.

Welcome to the family! I love mine so much, I bought a second one to keep in the house ;)

you really should try these though for at least your low beams. Wayyyy better, super cheap, and easy to install.

I've put these on my WR250R and Monster. They work a little better on the WR, for some reason, but I'm still quite happy with 'em.

Congrats! One thing I use on mine for better visibility is night tape. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Reflective-Safety-Tape-Adhesive/dp/B000NPNXP6

Is black during the day but VERY reflective at night. Made a huge difference on the back of my ST4s.

0000 steel wool and mothers polish. I just cleaned my 749 Termignoni's and the 0000 steel wool didn't harm them a bit. Give it a nice soap and water clean afterward. Mothers has a residue but man does it shine nice!

Yes, no need to go OEM on this, also get a rivet tool and save your self the cost and trouble of going to the shop. Something like this will remove links and dimple the rivet. Be sure to count the links in your old chain and check the manual to be sure you are using the right amount. A quick search shows the following: OEM Sprocket Sizes - 15T Front Sprocket / 39T Rear Sprocket OEM Chain - 525 Pitch / 104 Links.

X-Press spray is a magical. Think detailer spray, but it actually does something. Dries clear, so you can use it on any surface. I usually spray my car while it's still wet after washing, then just dry it off with a microfiber. Water beads off like everything was rain-x'ed


https://www.amazon.com/MEGUIARS-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B005JPJMI2/

Here’s the link!

Savior Equipment Tactical Multi-Purpose EDC Admin Pouch Military Waist Belt Modular Utility Tools Bag Organizer, Laser-Cut Style Molle Attachment Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MG3NYYB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wFnIDbFAP23BW