I don’t have WiFi so I’m not going to google search, but I’d be willing to bet google or amazon would have the car plug adapter for mobile ih.
As far as 18650, all I know is it can be done, and without TOO much effort.
With the box I’ve made, I’m going to add a bottom compartment that can be latched on to the bottom, and hold 4 18650’s which should be tons of use.

My best recommendation is YouTube, google, amazon/eBay for parts and going to the forum f***combustion , google search that forum, they have a huge thread on induction diy, as well as vapcap stuff, and there is a user there named pipes, he will sell you ready to go fully built portable and tabletop setups that are legit and very reasonably priced. Building my own I saved maybe 40 bucks, however his are better than what I’m able to cobble together, and for a true portable I’ll be going to him for his Portside mini as it’s the best.
Good luck my guy, I’m in the same boat.

Just order an induction driver with coil, a psu, and a switch of some sort.

SainSmart 5V~12V Zero Voltage Switching ZVS Induction Heating Power Supply Module + Coil Power Supply heating power supply module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rWzBCb6KE502R

Out of stock but that’s what I got, there are other sellers it’s all the same unit.

EPBOWPT AC 100-240V to DC 12V 6A... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNW1CNB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This psu works just fine for me, AND it comes with the adapter you will NEED to plug this all into the wall
ESUPPORT Heavy Duty 20A 125V 15A...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZWWZ0GK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This switch is for cars, and rated at 20a.
It’s overkill, but my understanding is a higher amp rated switch removes the need for a mofset which I didn’t wana really wore up. You can also use a momentary switch, so it’s only on if you press it down, but the spring keeps it set at “off” but they aren’t rated at 20a and you will need a mofset.

I just got a wood box and used my drill stuff to make the holes, and hot glue to seal the box so I can open it op fairly easily for repairs and upgrades

Blazer little buddy 2 is pretty awesome. Nice thin flame that really throws like a mini jet engine. Expensive tho, but works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B01L3VAID8/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have an Honest lighter I got off Amazon, it has a toggle switch for regular flame and torch, but I superglued that to the torch setting. Haha. This one works excellent too and takes garbage fuel like a champ. This is a great lighter for the price.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0793JWH4K?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

From left to right...

1 - Nibo Deluxe Butane Torch Refillable Lighter Adjustable Flame and Safety Lock - Bought this one off of eBay, works well but the flame isn't very big even on the highest setting amd you can't see how much butane is left in it.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Nibo-Deluxe-Butane-Torch-Refillable-Lighter-Adjustable-Flame-and-Safety-Lock/312336285164?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

2 - Jobon ZB 673 Torch - This one came with my Lotus Vaporizer, it seems to have a bigger butane tank in it although again you can't see it. This one also has a really big flame if you want it, but can also be adjusted down to a small flame. The clicker that makes the spark stopped working about after 1 month and was replaced with nothing more than an email. Great customer service from Lotus, these torches are warrantied for 90 days if purchased from them.

https://lotusvaporizer.com/jobon-zb-673-torch/

3 - Honest dual mode torch lighter - Bought this one off amazon, has the ability to act as a normal butane lighter (like a bic) or a torch. This one has a small butane tank so may not be ideal for people who take their vapcaps with them on the go, but very reliable so far.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0793JWH4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

4 - Honest Butane Torch Lighter - Bought this one from VapeNorth (Sneaky Pete's Canadian site). This one works very well, has a thinner flame than most of my other torches. This one is sort of a precision torch because of the thinner flame, very easy to aim it exactly where you want it and of course the see through butane tank.

https://vapenorth.ca/collections/accessories/products/honest-butane-torch-lighter?variant=1159626686484

5 - Jobon High Capacity Triple Jet Torch Gas Lighter - Bought this one from eBay as well. It works very well but to be honest I haven't used it much because I prefer a single flame. I picked it up in case I ever wanted to vape outside where there is potential for wind.

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Jobon-High-Capacity-Triple-Jet-Torch-Gas-Lighter-Pipe-Cigar-Cigarette-Handy-Tool/143042705276?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Eagle torch all the way man: https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Lighter-Windproof-Refillable-Assorted/dp/B0776NN1CD

The link there is $13 for 4. I paid $13 for ONE at my local cigar shop but it was way better than the 10 dollar pos I bought with my dynavap so I’m still pleased with ‘overspending’ on it. The reservoir is large but you will definitely be refilling every few days with any lighter unless you don’t use the vap cap often. This torch overall is the most reliable of the four I have tried personally.

Trust me, there is no need to go fancier than something like this, if refueling as little as possible is your top concern then get a kitchen torch that you screw onto a canister of butane and that will be your best bet! (The flame will be a tad big, use on the smallest possible setting)

Also buy yourself some good butane, I bought Colibri after buying a crap bottle first and it’s worth it just to extend the life of your torch/its reliability. It’s really not even much more expensive than the cheap options.

One last thing, consider than anything really small and discreet is just gonna end up being hot and annoying/uncomfortable to use.

I did a thing again.

​

I love Dynavap. I love Nintendo from my childhood. I found a way to combine them. The rough steps I used are:

​

1. Chassis: Disassemble the NES Advantage. (guide). Clean all of the parts in warm, soapy water, because joystick is probably gross after 30+ years.
   
2. Joystick: Take out the joystick. Slice off the "stick" part of the joystick with a dremel. Slice half of the bottom off with a dremel (to make room for the induction heater power supply). Drill 2 holes for the induction coil wire to pass through.
   
3. PCB: You want to retain the PCB so that all of the buttons on the controller can still be pressed. They will be non-operational, but still fun to press. You need to replace A/B button switches. Use momentary switches; I used 2 spare mechanical keyboard switches (Kailh Box Navy), because I'm a keyboard nerd and like switches that are clicky as hell. In any case, drill the PCB to make room for the switches.
   
4. A/B buttons: The plastic stem of the A/B buttons probably will not be the right height for your new switches. Use a dremel to shave off the plastic stem until it is the right height for your switches.
   
5. Induction Coil Power Supply: Bend the two "coils" off to the side. You will likely need to cut the copper coils going to the PCB, and re-solder them back on. The coils will not have enough "slack" to allow you to bend them without modification. Once done, the two coils fit perfectly in two of the joystick mounting posts.
   
6. Power: Install a 12V DC input jack; install an on/off switch for main power.
   
   

   Parts List
   

   
   

• (O) = Optional; (R) = Required
  
• (R) Heating: Induction Heater power supply & coil ($13)
  
• (R) Glass Stem: Cloupor Cloutank M3 Pyrex Glass($4)
  
• (R) Power Delivery: MOSFET trigger module 400W / 15A ($7) <-- you can find this for $1 on eBay; but delivery takes 1 month.
  
• (R) DC Input jack: DC Input jack 5.5mm x 2.1mm, 10 pack ($11)
  
• (R) Switch (operating on/off): [Momentary push button switch]. I chose to use 2 Cherry-clone mechanical keyboard switches.
  
• (R) Power Supply Unit: Kastar 12V 6A Power supply (link). Thank you /u/crossfires for the recommendation! Works beautifully!
  
• (O) Switch (main power, only DC or batteries): On/off toggle ($3) <-- Look for any switch that is single-pole single-throw (SPST) toggle switch. Buy this switch if only using 1 power source. Buy the switch below if you are using both DC power and batteries.
  
• (O) Terminal block: 6-position terminal strip blocks ($12 for 10-pack)
  
  ​
  
  

  Miscellaneous parts:
  

  
  

• Electrical wire
  
• Electrical tape
  
• Various screws, nuts, bolts, etc.
  
• Craft glue
  
• Sandpaper
  
• Scrap craft wood / boards (you can buy this at home depot or craft shops. Look for 1/4" craft wood boards; about $10 per large board)
  
• Tools used: Screwdriver | wire stripper | needle-nose pliers | hacksaw | dremel/rotary tool | soldering iron | drill | drill bits and spade bits Wire everything up, close up the chassis, and you're good to go.
  
  ​
  
  ​

I like the Silo (don't have one) but it's certainly the stealthiest and airtight, and you can also use doobtubes or get an appropriate sized titanium pill holder off amazon or somewhere for storing flower. Then you should be able to keep your vapcap and a couple of kinds of flower ready, airtight, and easy to conceal since you could put each container in a different pocket, keep them together, or whatever.

​

The 'cheap' futostashes are more economical than the dynastashes, and look a bit nicer, IMHO. But if I ever get one, I'll probably be a sucker for the more expensive galaxy burl ones as well.

​

Also, get a torch with some metal on the body and that will help with speeding up cooldown clicks. I have this one -- around $11 -- and my only complaint is that the flame height adjustment is not a large knob but the smaller flathead screwdriver type: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K3ZHVWSI got turned onto this model by Troy on 420vapezone who uses it on some of his review videos and says he loves it.

Saw a similar issue with mine when I first set it up - switch worked but no lit led.

My issue of course was a wiring problem. For the led to be activated you need to make sure that the additional led connections are made too. This will depend upon the switch you used of course but if you are using something like this https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Momentary-Waterproof-Stainless-Suitable/dp/B075QBJVTS?ref_=ast_bbp_dp then check the wiring diagram for program 1. My mistake was I missed that the NO (Normally Open) and the positive LED legs should be shorted to each other. Since mine had a wiring harness I just connected both wires to the positive connection of the zvs unit.

Hope your led issue is a simple fix like mine

BTW I like how you were able to fit it into that compact case, looks cool

Howdy! I’ve made two IH’s. A desk unit and a portable unit that uses 18650’s. While I like both of them, I still prefer using my $49 SJK IH. It’s the most user friendly being completely hands and button free, and it give me the best vape control out of all my IH’s. If you’re looking for budget, it doesn’t get much cheaper.

Dental Power Dental Lab Infrared Electronic Sensor Induction Carving Knife Wax Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0114AD8TO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ognYDbX2E0D9Z



DDaves mod for it is a wonderful quality of life mod if you find this IH suits your needs.

https://www.ddavemods.com/store/p73/The_IH_%28Induction_Heater%29_Hands-Free_Mod.html

Dont quote me on this because I am not sure what type of magnet they use but I have used rare earth magnets before and those things look like the one in the dynastash and they are super strong. just google rare earth magnets...you can get them on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XD2X45M/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b1NcM6l_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=W6YR9F9WSGGQ8D2Q9PXA&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=a9b59d08-5252-5d67-bf88-a2ac96acd022&pf_rd_i=1265130011

there is an amazon link

Torches arw always a tough decision, different torches for different uses for different effects. Double Torches are the sweet spot for me. Decent heat up time and fuel consumption is adequate. The one thing to remember is to bleed them before each fill to let the air out to get optimal results for lighting up on the first try.

I have this model and i love it:

Scorch Torch Tactical Ergonomic Angle Double Jet Flame Torch Cigarette Cigar Lighter w/Keychain and Strap (Gunmetal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G9GWANE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2f32Bb5RJGEWM


I want to get this one next cause it looks really cool :

Scorch Torch Matterhorn Double Jet Flame Butane Torch Cigarette Cigar Lighter (Gunmetal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JSCV8MA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ll32BbKW7MQH9


Hope this helps bro.

Personally I like the Vertigo triple flame myself. It works great. The jets look like a mini rocket launching when is use. And it does well for my hands which have some arthritis issues. An IH is nice as well. O just dig torches personally.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K04EQ2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TGZKDbSB499F6

Well, originally I used the guitar slide and I had about 7 coils. It worked fine, but the LED stopped lighting up on the switch, and I went back and redid the wiring really well. From that point on, the LED still didn't work but when the button was pressed the LED on the heater unit would light. Once a dyna was inserted into the coil, however, the light would go off. I posted here and someone recommended that I switch to this PSU, and it's worked fine since. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG

When I went to mount into this case permanently last night, I metered the switch out and it looks like the LED is hosed. A replacement switch will be here tomorrow.

Stainless tip.

Thanks for your guide!

I’m using this build:

Induction Heater Build

And was hoping to insert an LED like this: LED with resistor

I like that the LED on the momentary switch is on while the unit is plugged in and would like for the additional LED to come on while the button is pressed. My uneducated guess was that it would be added to the circuit of the Induction heater but I don’t know what I’m doing. Thanks in advance for any help dynavap-ers!

Just buy this lighter. Dynavap also uses these for some of their kits, but you can just get two of them for less than 9 bucks each here, and they work great. All my cigar-smoking friends swear by them too.

You will need an induction heater

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ALTHK5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will need a power supply

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01461MOGQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Technically that's really all you need. You could wire the leads to the induction heater and plug it in and it will be on. But I don't think anyone likes the idea of leaving this thing plugged in and always on. Which is why most users will choose some sort of switch set up. For my induction heater I used this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D373HZF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Several users have pretty in-depth full guides. I think the best and most clear one out right now is this one https://www.reddit.com/r/Dynavap/comments/c94dxj/diy_induction_heater_guide/

According to the wiring schematic on amazon it looks like you should be wiring the switch into the high level trigger (pwm +) as opposed to the low level trigger terminal.

Try swapping your ground loop one terminal over so it's high + ground and switch your momentary wire from the low level to the high level pwm + terminal.

edit

If that doesn't work get one that looks like this, less complicated:

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-200203-Transistor-Electronic-Controller/dp/B01J78FX9S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=mosfet+switch&qid=1565919461&s=gateway&sr=8-3

edit 2 again

I'm super emotionally invested in you getting this thing to work now, feel free to hit me up on chat too. Let's figure this thing out together!

It's rare if I get less then 7 cycles every time out of one cap. Most of the time over 10. I've been using the M for close to 2 years almost every day. Here is how I use it...

Use a single torch lighter. I love the eagle ones on Amazon. Super cheap. Refillable. Mine came already filled and they have a huge tank. 4 pack always under $15. Some I have refilled over 5 times now. They are surprisingly durable. I heat for a long time and the large butane tanks rarely need refilling.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Lighter-Windproof-Refillable-Assorted/dp/B0776NN1CD/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=eagle+jet+lighter&qid=1571949770&sr=8-6

I tried other tri/quad flames and just didn't get the big hits like I can with the single torch and they combusted a lot easier.

I heat right until the 2 click and not much over. Sometimes towards the end of my cap I will press my luck and coax a bit more vapor out of it going 1-2 seconds past the clicks. I focus as far away from the end of the tip as I can. Towards the end of the cap closest to where you draw.

To get the product into the M I use the straw technique directly out of my grinder. Basically use the M like it's a straw and suck in to fill your cap. This creates a fluffier product that isn't packed too tight. Too tight has draw restrictions and just isn't as efficient.

I heat it very slow. Sometimes up around 20 seconds. Especially when the M is cooled down all the way. Distance away is a bit less then an inch. I like to think of it as slowly roasting a big piece of meat over a fire. Dont get in a hurry. If you do you will char it and have a shitty experience. I just keep my flame in one spot and slowly keep rolling the M at a consistent speed until the second click.

I pretty much have the carb closed the whole time for my draw. I suck in hard like trying to drink a thick milkshake out of a straw. If the vapor starts to get too warm (typical of the first 3 hits) I will roll the M a bit slowly between my thumb and pointer to open and close the carb introducing a bit of cooler air.

The draw usually lasts me until the cool down clicks or right before it. I only draw into my mouth and then inhale with some air behind it to really drive the hit deep.

I usually hit the vape back to back in groups of 2 or 3 cycles. Then a bit of a break in between the next group of 2-3. I've found when I combust it's when I get my cycles groups too close together or heat it too close/quickly.

I very rarely combust. I keep hitting it until it starts to taste a bit like burnt popcorn, but not in a terrible way. My ABV is never black, but gets the color of a light roast coffee. I still get a decent amount potency out of my ABV when I make golden dragon. If the last hit didn't taste a bit like burnt popcorn, then try heating it a little bit slower and a little bit longer after the clicks. If you go slow it's hard to combust with a single flame if you respect the clicks.

One cap is typically all I need to get to bed. Sometimes I need 2 if I had some earlier in the day. I'm a cheap ass stay at home dad in an illegal state. I want the most bang for my buck.

Hopefully some of this info helps.

Appreciate the info! That’s what I’m struggling with. The guide mentioned 5a for first builds, but if I’m better off with 6a and going the MOSFET route, I’d rather know now. On that subject, what do you think of this?


Power supply

Kastar AC Adapter, Power Supply 12V 6A 72W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vTD0DbWRDYN6

Switch

API-ELE [3 year warranty] All New Design 10 Amp 22mm Latching Push Button Switch 12V Angel Eye LED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q65BMGS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YYD0Db02QYZ2Y


With this setup do I still need the MOSFET?


Thanks!

Agreed on the amazing quality of the M & the crap quality of the two flame torch as I did the exact same thing. EveryDayCarry.com claimed this Scorch Torch was popping so I ordered one. Delivery is today so I have no clue if it's any better. Good thing I have a three day weekend to thoroughly test it out! :-)

I have [this model] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0114AD8TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) it works really great. I would recommend getting the hands free mod from Ddave as well so you don't have to hold onto anything.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T789RA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

note that I barely got all of the components to fit in that box, but it's a great size!

I use these: Vertigo by Lotus Cyclone Triple Torch Cigar Lighter Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K04EQ2Y/

They have great capacity and just plain work well

i used something smaller, HX-3S-01 BMS + HX-JH-001 balancer sourced locally, and it works flawlessly.

however, i think this board recommended by u/-B-K- is the ideal fit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RNNBPYR

the max draw from the driver is 10A@12v (i see some run it on 5A) and really you only want to charge at 2A max so a 25A BMS is way too much IMHO.

currently using LG HG2's

I use a tooth stain remover like in the link, it has those screens as good as new in no time. I'm not sure just how abrassive they can be so I wouldn't use them too much or extensively and deffo another dip in an ISO bath after, just to get rid of any dust etc. And thanks, I've just ordered an ultrasonic cleaner off your recommendation!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B012D2ED4Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RKMWZOA/

that's what i used, fit the coil as-is perfectly.

u/thisismytreesact I saw your comment here which helped clear up this question

https://www.reddit.com/r/Dynavap/comments/cdk3pa/how_do_i_wire_this_momentary_switch_on_my_ih/etuj08o

But do you possible have one like that with a regular mosfet (with the ground and trig like this https://www.amazon.ca/DROK-Transistor-Driving-Electronic-Controller/dp/B01J78FX9S) and not the high powered one?

I have been really liking this one:

GOLDNCONN Jet Torch Cigar Lighter, Strong Flame Windproof Butane Fuel Cigarette Lighter (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0793JWH4K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_3JgMDbRC7WAQJ

Big shout out to the /u/beasthoss guide in the sidebar. Worked like a charm first time. Induction heating really makes the already awesome dynavap experience even better. All parts used are listed below for anyone interested. I did use some t-taps I had laying around but no solder.

Induction Heating Module

Power Supply

Glass Adapter

Momentary Switch

Project Enclosure

Drill Bit

Edit for parts list.

I, like you, had a cheap single-flame torch when i first got my Dynavap. I hated how long it took for me to hear it up as well, especially in windy or cold areas. I found these triple flame torches with great reviews on amazon and decided to order them. They come two to a pack at around $15 for the pack. So far, they’re very reliable, but I’m not too worried about that since they come with a lifetime warranty. and heat up my M much, much faster than my original single flame lighter.

Yeah I really like them. I've had several for around a year and they all still work fine.

Eagle torch

I have ground coming from the prong on the side. Then on the bottom prong I have (+ in) in from PSU and (+ out) to IH board. Per the diagram, if my switch didnt have an integrated LED, I wouldn't be running ground from the switch at all, correct?

Thanks for advice on the LED. Would something like this work without a resistor? LED

in one hand I have a cooking torch (like one of those things you attach to a can of fuel.. paint can sized)

in the other hand I have 14" glass bong... with a titanium nail in the stem

​

the flame from the torch is parallel to the table.

the bong is about 1" too short for the nail to reach the flame..

I have a small cutting board, that's about 1" thick.. so I just put the bong on the cutting board, and the torch on the counter. viola.

​

you need a lighter where the flame comes out parallel to the table. and is ~3" (or whatever) high. sit the dyna vertically.. maybe the flame just lines up?

​

https://smile.amazon.com/Eagle-Lighter-Windproof-Refillable-Assorted/dp/B0776NN1CD/

I haven’t ordered any dual torches from Amazon, but I’ve had a good experience with this Vertigo triple torch.

I saw someone post about using this induction heater for wax sculpting tools. I have no idea if it would be powerful enough, but I would really like to know. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0114AD8TO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LZQWAbHDY0FTT

Raw makes an aluminum doob tube that’s perfect and just $4. Link here. amazon

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c8ivDbB8AP6VT

Okay this is the one that Amazon said is "frequently bought" with the IH module and it says 6 A, do you think it would be adequate or should I just get a 10 A? Im trying to keep the build as inexpensive as possible

The enclosure I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TS6RY85/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AyhxDbV7EHBCN

The 5A power supply (5A and you don't have to use a mosfet): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GzhxDbQWPT5QR

I used a glass slide tube for inside of the coil. You will have to rewrap the coil on the IH to fit around the slide, not hard at all: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FWYAWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MAhxDbTK5P2YY

The actual IH: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lChxDb0DGE3TM

The 5v switch w/ wiring harness (you don't need any extra wires this way): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QBJVTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fDhxDb7HTYE19

A Unibit would be a good thing to have to get the 3 holes drilled in the box. A hotglue gun and a screwdriver and your set....

Raw Aluminum Tube. <$5. Ya welcome.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0788RTRF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

GOLDNCONN Jet Torch Cigar Lighter Strong Flame Windproof Butane Fuel Cigarette Lighter (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0793JWH4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D9vXDbRE9BSW5

I know I’m not offering a solution, but have you tried Vertigo triple torches? I’ve dropped them tons of times but they both work like the day I got them.

https://www.amazon.com/Vertigo-Cyclone-Triple-Lighter-Charcoal/dp/B00LJVW0FW

Outdoors I use triple flame, indoors I use this single flame. The triple heats up the cap faster and stronger against the wind. However, I much prefer the vapcap indoors and with the single torch.

Don't be a downvoting troll. Because you don't have the correct information sir... Here you go. 8A 3S with balancing. need more?

Read up on those BMS systems a bit more bud, because the charge rate is not what you say it is... I have tested several of them, and all the ones I have input at over 2A. I know a lot about batteries and even more about charging them. And, charging 18650's at more than 1A is not recommended across the board. That is why most 18650 chargers max out at 1A. It is a safety and a longevity thing.


EDIT: BTW, I own the board I linked... and can confirm that it works.

Vertigo by Lotus Cyclone Triple Torch Cigar Lighter Charcoal 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LJVW0FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LEPNAbMS6KRM6

$18 - 2pack of triple torch lighters. I’ve had them for months with daily use. If you use good quality butane (like your Colibri) they should last. Went through 4 lighters in a month before I found these.

yeah and if you read the most recent reviews its dynavap users and one of them talks about the adapter piece


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0114AD8TO?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=17GFDB8H6Z7WHXX6N9CE

The heat up time is how I calibrated it - ya I like it that way

I put a small rock at the bottom to adjust the height - see this guys post https://www.reddit.com/r/Dynavap/comments/d7pcew/make_sure_to_calibrate_your_home_made_induction

Without the rock it heats FAST - Too fast. I could try a smaller rock when I get around to it

Supply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ

IH module: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA

make your own and save 70$. you can even but what appears to be the same case used here for 7$

https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-Aluminum-Enclosure-Electronic/dp/B005T789RA/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=metal+project+box&qid=1571424757&sr=8-5

Schematic (borrowed from another user... can't remember who!

Parts list (canadian, but you can find everything on amazon and/or ebay, or locally):

Heater Board and Coil: https://www.amazon.ca/BAQI-5V-12V-Voltage-Induction-Heating/dp/B0747NBTBX

MOSFET Relay (for operating the momentary switch): https://www.amazon.ca/DROK-Transistor-Driving-Electronic-Controller/dp/B01J78FX9S

Power Supply (or if you have one from an xbox 360 it'll work) This one also includes the female jack: https://www.amazon.ca/Signcomplex-Supply-Transformer-Switching-Adapter/dp/B075R3RW6J

Glass tube: https://www.amazon.ca/Dunlop-202-Dun-Bottleneck-Slide-Reg/dp/B0009EQMZE

Main power switch: https://www.amazon.ca/Pilot-PLSW26-Safety-Racing-Toggle/dp/B000GTMUUI

Momentary Switch to activate the coil ONLY while pressed: https://www.amazon.ca/Ulincos-U16A1-Black-Button-Switch/dp/B015X34IP6

You'll also need some 18ga stranded wire, an enclosure, and some soldering skills/equipment.

I saw someone post some raw aluminum tubes for doobies. I’m really not sure if they would work for nonavongs or xl sizes but as far as I know they’re only a couple dollars. Might be worth looking into

Edit: heres a link I found

Module: SainSmart 5V~12V Zero Voltage... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Power Supply: LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OKGHDbACFYZQB
(You May want to find a 10a one instead)

Momentary Switch: yueton DC 36V 2A 16mm High Round... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0131XF9KS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Box: Pinfox 2 Pack Black Waterproof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M5SZNR9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

internal shot

Parts list:

• Pelican 1120 Case
  
  
• Induction Coil Module
  
  
  
• Mosfet
  
  
  
• Momentary Switch
  
  
• Power indicator light
  
  
• Toggle Switch
  
  
• Power Supply
  
  
• Glass Test Tube
  
  Tools:
  
  
• Glass Cutter
  
  
• Connectors I only used 2 of the prong connectors for the toggle switch
  
  STL for 3d printing:
  
  All three files
  
  Wiring diagram:
  
  Terrible MS paint Diagram

Here's a link to one on Amazon

i ended up getting this 2pk for my new shadow M. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LJVW0FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t869BbWGZR198

Vertigo Triple Torch, the last lighter you'll ever need.

Dental Power Dental Lab Infrared Electronic Sensor Induction Carving Knife Wax Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0114AD8TO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z1ECDbA62328G

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0114AD8TO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_hgSoAbGR6XZKA

this one is the one im using

is this what you have?

https://www.amazon.com/Dental-Power-Infrared-Electronic-Induction/dp/B0114AD8TO/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1542393196&sr=8-13&keywords=induction+heater

LEDMO Power Supply, Transformers,LED Adapter, 12V, 5A Max, 60 Watt Max, for LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FEDqDbE02Z0BA this is the power supply we used!

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Lighter-Windproof-Refillable-Assorted/dp/B0776NN1CD/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=eagle+torch+lighters&qid=1565453796&s=gateway&sprefix=eagle+torch&sr=8-4

That’s what I got. Still using the same one for about 6 months now (have refilled it a couple times). It used to light on the first click but only recently started requiring 2-3, so it may finally be wearing out


Also it says they don’t have gas in them but mine arrived full so idk

GOLDNCONN Mini Jet Pencil Flame Torch Butane Gas Fuel Welding Soldering Lighter Cigar (Black-S) (Black-S) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0793JWH4K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2SKOCbXCTXVXM

This one.

Grab an order of these
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Lighter-Windproof-Refillable-Assorted/dp/B0776NN1CD

And this
https://www.amazon.com/Butane-Refill-Fluid-Lighter-Refined/dp/B07MTPXV21

Also this to clean the condenser and tip
https://www.amazon.com/Bundles-Pipe-Cleaners-Bristle-Count/dp/B000W5R6UA

Always confirm the cooldown click to avoid combusting. Try leaving the airport open the whole time. You'll find that you dont really need to file grooves. Plus the vapor is WAY smoother.

I'm using this exact one:
https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Voltage-Switching-Induction-Heating/dp/B01GDVVANA

I mean, it's working.... not combusting, nice heating, as if i was heaing low on the cap with the torch... Maybe it's also too deep into the coils.... or it's wrapped badly... OR both..

Heater

Switchboard

Glass slide


Missing out of this is just some wire and a SPST switch(single pole single throw, just on and off) momentary switch (press when you heat the cap) and optional led lights. I ordered the switch and wire from analogboxmods for decently priced.

I'll edit this comment when I find the link to the guys post that really helped me out with all the wiring.

Edit- https://www.reddit.com/r/Dynavap/comments/btmvt9/basic_induction_heater_schematic_includes/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share

Power supply seems a bit weak. Why don’t you get a 6A power supply? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Lowest price with prime shipping here. I'd avoid the ones with red wiring around the inductors (double donuts on top) as they require soldering in my experience.