Best products from r/E30

So without actually seeing it, it's hard to give you some advice of what parts you need to fix your issue but this is similar to what I purchased to fix my door lock issue. E30 lock cylinder

Might I also suggest looking for parts on Real OEM one of the best tools for finding parts and part numbers with actual diagrams for BMW's. Hope this helps and good luck with your issue!

Did you replace the rubber brake lines that connect to the calipers? They could be swelling under pressure.

Did you do anything with the calipers? Check out the pistons? Replace the seals? A repair kit is super cheap.

As for bleeding to make sure there's no air, I do recommend using a power bleeder, just because it's easier. I fabbed up my own power brake bleeder so I could do it myself, but you can buy one pretty inexpensively. Definitely made brake fluid changes and bleeding easy. No more shouting to a friend to stomp the pedal, etc. Here's the Motive one on amazon: :https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-European-Bleeder-Adapter/dp/B0002KM5L0

If you want a shorter pedal distance, you may need to swap in a larger bore master cylinder like the M3 or E32 master cylinder with a 25mm bore (versus the 21mm & 19mm bore that came from the factory).

I've only worked with one a handful of times. But each time I've had few issues. Just make sure you really research what you're doing, grab a bentley manual and follow its directions. Make sure you have a good set of jack and jack stands, the E30 is a relatively low car, so if you're doing work to it you'll need to lift it up sometimes.

Always do valve adjustments every 15,000 miles and the timing belt every 50,000, the M20B25 is an interference engine, if that belt goes it'll blow the entire thing. Make sure you change the oil and fluids, etc. etc. The engines in these things will go forever if you take care of them.

The cool thing about E30s is they're an enthusiasts car, so there's quite a few videos on YouTube on how to properly do a lot of this stuff, and there's at least 2 active forums; E30tech and r3vlimited so If you need to know how to do something chances are someone has already done it and can tell you how.

Not hard. I strongly recommend borrowing/buying a copy of the Bentley Workshop Manual for the E30. Head removal is 26 steps. I can't realistically copy-paste everything verbatim :)

I'm what you'd call a novice wrencher and I've done it twice. Keep your parts organised (zip lock bags are good for this), and you'll need a good set of sockets/wrenches. E-torx sockets for the head bolts (buy Genuine btw: 11121726478). Torque wrench. A good straight edge and a set of feeler gauges to check head flatness once it's removed. Be sure to clean all the head bolts holes in the block before reassembly - compressed air and rags. I opted to use a small dab of straight 30W oil under the neck of each cylinder head bolt prior to assembly (torque accuracy). New head gasket obviously - buy Genuine, Goetze or Elring. There may be a lot of "while I'm in there" opportunities - timing belt, water pump, belt tensioner, coolant hoses if they're tired. Make sure the 2 alignment dowels are installed in the block before you reinstall the head! There's a tightening sequence on the head bolts you're supposed to follow. New Genuine BMW coolant...

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/M20

If you have all the tools and parts, and you're not trying to make a race meet, I would expect it to take a couple of days?

Edit: special tool for water pump pulley/viscous fan clutch: https://www.amazon.com/BMW-FAN-CLUTCH-HOLDER-WRENCH/dp/B003180DSC

I'd recommend [e30 zone] (http://www.e30zone.net/) for learning about the models.

As far as fixing them, a crowd favorite is the [Bentley Service Manual] (http://www.amazon.com/BMW-3-Service-Manual-1984-1990/dp/0837616476)
As fair warning, you need to understand that your e30 will break down and there will be periods of time where it's out of commission. You should have a secondary form of transportation. Even though some e30s can be obtained for cheap, the amount of work you might have to put into them can easily be worth double the vehicle. If you don't know how to work on cars, and don't know anyone who will help you work on it, then an e30 or other classic probably isn't the right genre of vehicle for you. However, if you have the willpower, it is a wonderful car to own and maintain.

I'd recommend:

1. buying a bentley e30 manual
   https://www.amazon.com/BMW-E30-Service-Manual-1984/dp/0837616476/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519082032&sr=8-1&keywords=bentley+e30+manual
   
   
   
2. Buying a decent mechanic tool set, I just bought a 450 piece one off sears for $250 but any good rated amazon one for $70-$120 should do for basic stuff
   
   
   
3. Register on a good e30 forum like r3vlimited.com and look at the diy guides and info there

I have a bridge to sell you for that interior 😲

These are things I have found especially useful. I've used these more than anything in my huge toolkit, but I'm glad I got it for other general wrenching.

• 3/8" and 1/2" breaker bars and torque wrenches if you don't like to guess whether you're going to strip a fastener like me. I found the Tekton brand is solid for torque wrenches, here's the 1/2" 250ft-lb.
  
  
• 22mm deep well socket (steering wheel)
  
  
• 8, 10, 17mm sockets, deep and standard
  
  
• socket extensions (u-joint probably wouldn't hurt)
  
  
• Flare wrenches, if you're doing the brake lines
  
  
• penetrating oil (liquid wrench or the like)
  
  
• Zip ties
  
  
• Work lamp - I found this one at Menards and it is so useful. Magnetic/rechargeable/lasts for hours
  
  
• Jack/Jack stands: picked up a cheap, durable set of Torin stands with a jack. I was thinking about something from Harbor freight, but I don't want to cheap out with something that I'm relying on to keep the car up.
  
  
• cheap multimeter
  
  
• spare wire (for jumping your oil service light after a DIY change)
  

+1, and don't forget the Bentley Manual!! It is by far the best thing you can buy for DIY projects on these cars. I have one fore my E30 and my E28, and it has never failed me.

I would also add a variety of different sized flatheads and phillips screwdrivers. And I would recommend an actual caliper spreader for brake changes vs a C-Clamp, as it is much easier in my experience and they can be had for ~$10.

It probably would be easier but I dont think its worth the hassle honestly. Jack the car up and come at some things from the bottom.

I do recommend getting this tool

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VLLQ6M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Makes removing the fan way easier and is very much worth the $18.

The other thing to pay attention to is how to get the belt back on. Its going to be tight and if you go about it the wrong way it will be off a tooth. Once you figure out the trick its super easy though.

They way I did it was to loosen the tensioner bolts as far as they would go but still hold it on. Wrap the belt around the cam, crank and oil pump first with all the slack on the underside. Use a long screw driver to push the tensioner in and use the slack on the tensioner assembly to wiggle the belt onto it. Let the tensioner out and secure it. Check your marks and then do 2 full rotations of the crank. Verify marks again and adjust as needed.

The forum post I used

Parts: BMW e36.7 (96-99) radio Antenna Seal Upper OEM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AEY0LME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_yR71kMef4pKoe

AntennaX The Shorty (5-inch) Antenna for BMW Z3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3BSFUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_xs9S3xMYMHQgM

Antenna Bracket: https://www.ebay.com/itm/151362505250

I also needed a different end on the grounding wire as the bolt is too big for the one that comes with it. Cost was a little higher than I would have liked, but I think it looks a lot nicer. An additional recommendation I have is to keep a hand under the grommet as you're pressing into the hole. I had to buy a second one because it got away from me and fell down into a tight spot I couldn't retrieve it from

Locks: just fit an alarm with central locking function.

Radio: Measure the resistance across the speakers to see if they still function, as a first go. I'd go original. You can maybe get a kit to provide an iPod aux input function, do a google.

Foam: It's louder without the foam, that's all. Be sure the paint is still intact if you peel it off.

Hubcaps: You mean the small centres for 14" bottle top alloys?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1315-EUR-06-1988-E30-BMW-316i&diagId=36_0039 part #6?
https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-BMW-36131114180-Wheel-Cover/dp/B009PXCIK8
Just google the part number.

Foglights: you don't need them, they do very little to improve lighting. Get Osram Nightbreaker headlight bulbs instead, same wattage but much brighter and legal.

Throttle body cover, you don't need it. Purely cosmetic.

https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Central-Locking-Keyless-Controllers/dp/B006QH9C5A
Been using this on my e30 for the past two years works great, relatively easy to install just follow the thread on r3v, the video from the reviews is also helpful

Get an eraser wheel off of amazon, I did it and it was super easy to remove the pinstriping.

http://www.amazon.com/AES-Industries-Smart-Eraser-Adaptor/dp/B00488DDB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419617431&sr=8-1&keywords=eraser+wheel

Hardest part is bleeding the brakes. If you have a friend to pump the pedal or a pressure bleeder then it is not hard.

Also make sure to have actual flare wrenches. A standard claw wrench will strip the brake line flare nuts.

OEM lines are fine, that is what I would buy, and they're truly DOT certified. They lasted 30+ years.

Where are you finding 36132225376 for $53?

15" et24 style 5's weren't available in US, except for the IX spec ones with the much higher offset. see the E30 wheel charts: https://bimmertips.com/oem-bmw-e30-wheel-options-specs/

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the 14" center cap that fits on the 4x100 wheel: https://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Wheel-Center-STYL-5/dp/B002IVCFDY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=bbs+bmw+e30+center+cap&qid=1563042818&s=gateway&sr=8-4

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The 15" center cap that fits on the 4x100 wheel: https://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Wheel-Center-1983/dp/B000UH6EDA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bbs+bmw+e30+center+cap&qid=1563042777&s=gateway&sr=8-3

from other sources:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/36132225376.htm?pn=36-13-2-225-376-M9&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwf6DxcOy4wIVeCCtBh1n0Q-zEAQYBCABEgKIWfD_BwE

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-hub-cap-d-equals-171mm-36132225376?ads_cmpid=1586640911&ads_adid=59893888775&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=298302526031&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-327620319311&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&ttv=2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpKm0p8Oy4wIVhshkCh3klQmhEAQYASABEgLCvPD_BwE

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/center-cap-priced-each/36132225376/

Note they have different dimensions. the 15" center cap is part number 09.24.028, which is 6.73 inches (or 171mm). The 14" center cap is 151mm, or 6 inches.

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Unless you are looking at the 15" center cap for the 5 series, which does not fit, and has a different part number, even though it looks the same: https://www.amazon.com/BMW-Genuine-Wheel-Center-1988/dp/B000NP9DS2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=bbs+bmw+e30+center+cap&qid=1563042818&s=gateway&sr=8-5

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Here's the 15" basketweave center cap part numbers that I've recorded:

Part number 0924028 for the center cap, it's 171mm (6.73 inches)

Part number 09.23.114 for the center twist hex cap

Part number 09.24.029 center logo for wheel OR 09.24.030. BMW p/n 36-13-2-225-190-m9 70mm diameter wheel center cap

Part number 09.23.113 a different version of the 15" center cap that seems to fit