Best products from r/ElectricSkateboarding

1. I'd highly suggest buying from Amazon. Aliexpress might be cheaper, but you can't beat Amazons return policy, literally just buy everything and if it breaks/doesn't work/doesn't fit, just return it and try again. Amazon is a big company, they can handle it. Seriously, buy as much as you can from Amazon. The two day shipping is nice too. That being said, there are some things you cant get on Amazon. In my experience, Aliexpress can take over a month. I found that diyelectricskateboard.com had the best motor mounts and pulleys for me (the ones I originally got from Amazon - you guessed it - are getting returned). It was also impossible to find any kind of motor with prime shipping, so I went with Mboards.com.
   
   
2. Double and triple check the wheel pulley will work with your wheels, currently they don't. With the spokes of the wheels you chose, you'll need a pulley with a bolt pattern like this. I made this mistake, and guess what, I returned them to Amazon.
   
   
3. I'd suggest going with Caliber trucks. The one flat edge really helps with getting the motor mount to sit square on the trucks, with round trucks like you have I found it was almost impossible to get them to be seated properly. Made this mistake with the Paris trucks and Amazon got those sent back real quick.
   
   
4. You'll want an ESC with a higher amp rating if you want to use your motor to its fullest potential. There's going to be a lot of wasted power with only a 16A ESC. The ESC will likely be one of the most expensive parts of your build, you don't want to skimp out on it. I think you'll be very disappointed with the ESC you've chosen. I'd go with something like this for a single motor build. I know, its $80, and to top it off you'll have to buy the anti-spark switch and controller/receiver separate, but you get what you pay for... 50A is going to be way more fun than 16A.
   
   
5. A $40 6374 motor seems way too good to be true, I wouldn't trust it. Go with Mboards.com or diyelectricskateboard.com for the motor and you'll get good quality and not have to wait a month to start your build.
   
   
6. Like the other guy said, get a battery with a higher amp rating too, something to match or slightly exceed your ESC.
   
   For a single motor build, I'd expect to be in the $800-$900 range.
   
   Ultimately, the prices of Aliexpress might be nice, but everything is made super cheap, and your safety is quite literally determined by how well these parts hold up. I say don't risk it. Further, you will learn a lot more about your setup once you actually have the physical parts in your hands. Your time is valuable and if you are constantly waiting on shipping just to hold the parts and what you're working with first hand, it will take ages to get it actually running. No matter what there is going to be a lot of trial and error and a lot of returns. You'll thank yourself later if you avoid buying from China.

SCROLL DOWN FOR COSTS, LINKS, REVIEWS & HOW TO VIDEOS.
I will add to it following your feedback/input.


"WHY?"


Budget -Not everybody wants to spend the money on a boosted board, but they still want an eBoard that resembles a boosted.
Maybe you want to ride before upgrading, maybe you want to customise gradually due to cash flow or caution.

Stealth - Belt Drives are a big give-away that you are on an eBoard, which are technically illegal in some countries and the police can fine you and confiscate them.
Belt drive options are also listed.

Noobs - Not everyone has the skill level, knowledge or the motivation that a super clone requires. Some dude spend $1500 on a clone and countless of hours to get it done. Good for him, but not everyone has the time and might just prefer to buy a used boosted instead. This guide seeks to provide entry level access for anyone into riding and customisation.
I hope to update it regularly with your help. Please provide links, costs, reviews, images and videos.


TIERS
Prices inc Delivery and Tax to Europe which is more expensive than the US. Therefore prices may be cheaper for you when delivery, discount codes and buying used parts are taken into account.

1. $439.99 = WowGo 2S ( Ask the team for NO LOGO)
   
   
2. $532 = WowGo 2S + Vanguard Clone.
   
   
3. $630.97 = WowGo 2S ESC + Battery+Remote+ Vanguard Clone + eBoosted Enclosures. + Belt Driven Kit.
   
   
4. $652 = WowGo 2S + Vanguard Clone + eBoosted Enclosures.
   
   5.$711.97 =WowGo 2S ESC + Battery+Remote+ Vanguard Clone + eBoosted Enclosures. + Belt Driven Kit.
   
   
5. $733 = WowGo 2S + Loaded Vanguard + eBoosted Enclosures.
   
   
6. $800* = Used Boosted V2 Dual Plus. Price does not include delivery. SOURCE
   
   
7. $1,366.80 = 2nd Gen Boosted Dual with Standard Range Battery
   
   9.$1500 DIY Boosted on www.electric-skateboard.builders/
   
   
   
8. $2,038.80 Boosted Stealth
   
   LINKS
   
   WowGo 2S $439 - $639
   Does not include discount code “OFF20”
   
   Vanguard Clone from diyeboard.com $93 - €98
   
   eBoosted Enclosures $120
   
   42” Loaded Vanguard Deck - Flex 3 $174 from Amazon inc delivery
   
   Remote for WowGo 2S $29.99
   
   ESC for WowGo 2S $79.99
   
   Battery for WowGo 2S
   
   Dual Belt Drive 1400W Kit $178 inc trucks etc
   
   REVIEWS
   WowGo 2S reviewYoutube.
   
   Vanguard Clone Flex Test Youtube.
   
   
   HOW TO
   
   Deck Swap Youtube.

Oh gosh. I built this several months ago so this list is mostly from memory, but I’ll do my best. Also bear in mind that my experience with DIYeBoard has been a good one. I haven't had any issues with my ESC or battery. Zero issues with voltage sag or the controller cutting out. I have seen a few reports that these are common issues, but I haven't experienced them. I'm also listing the prices I paid for these items. I don't know if these prices have changed recently so take that into consideration.

Deck – Rimmable 42in top mount complete board (for replacement wheels and bearings) - $35

Battery and ESC – 10s5p kit from DIYeBoard - $220

Motors – 170kv N5055’s from DIYeBoard – 2x $40

Gearing – Gears and Pulley kit from DIYeBoard - $25

Trucks – Caliber 2 (black) - $30 free ship

Wheels – Cal 7 97mm 78A (flywheel hub) - $26 free ship (yes this pricing is correct and yes these wheels are amazing)

Mounts – Boardnamics – approx. $50 shipping included

Grip –Camo Black Diamond griptape – $9.95

​

Speed – 32mph on flat ground with 210lb rider. Could go faster but I wasn't willing to push it without a helmet or other protection.

Range – Unknown I normally get tired before it dies. My estimate is around 15-20miles on speed mode 2 full throttle

Approximate total = $500 USD (NOT including shipping costs for DIYeBoard items all Amazon items were shipped for free)

What I did right

• Bought high-quality parts (mostly)
  
• Laser-cut center logo
  
  • I originally tried cutting this out of grip tape. The results were... suboptimal. The laser-cut plastic looks amazing and was only ~$10 after free credits. I ordered it through Ponoko. New accounts get a $20 credit towards making stuff, and they have a huge range of materials to choose from. I used this material, which comes with adhesive pre-applied as well as being quite flexible.
    
• Custom fiberglass enclosure
  
  • This was probably the part of the build that took the longest. Due to me not sizing the enclosure correctly (see below), I decided it would be easier to make an enclosure rather than scouring the internet for one that fit. This was my first time working with fiberglass, so it turned out a little rough. But it does the job and conforms to my deck way better than any pre-bought enclosure ever would. It’s currently secured to my deck with screws threaded directly into the wood. The holes are strengthen with superglue. So far this has worked well (5+ screw in/outs), we’ll see if it holds up. If the holes start stripping I’ll just put some threaded inserts in.
    
• Installed a Bluetooth module
  
  • Although I haven’t gotten wireless configuration working yet, it’s really nice being able to see stats on your phone. I’m on iOS and use the Xmatic app which is very-well designed. It even comes with a companion Apple Watch app so you can easily check your speed and battery life while riding.
    
    

    Mistakes I made
    

    
    

1. I didn’t add extra clearance to the battery size when shopping for an enclosure. I originally bought this enclosure from MBoards. But either the enclosure or the battery was slightly bigger/smaller than the advertised dimensions and the entire enclosure bowed out when I tried shoving the battery in. Cables never had a chance of fitting. This turned out to be a bit of a moot point anyways, because...
   
2. I choose a deck with too much flex/bow. Even if the enclosure did fit the battery, attaching it to the underside of my deck would have severely warped it.
   
3. I destroyed two $10 42V chargers. The first was destroyed by plugging it in backwards to the battery (i.e. red -> black and black -> red on the battery connector). We don’t talk about the second one. ^(Ok maybe I plugged it in the exact same way expecting something else yes I’m an idiot)
   
4. I didn’t cut the grip tape very cleanly. Lots of rough edges, grip tape is harder to apply properly than it looks.
   
5. My paint job on the enclosure turned out a little sloppy because I didn’t properly secure the stencil.
   
   

   Potential upgrades
   

   
   

• New paint job on bottom (I might just go all-black and remove the design)
  
• New grip tape (with more consistent edges)
  
• Reverse-mounted motor (so I can use my dropdown like it was intended)
  
• Sleeker fiberglass enclosure
  
• Handle (I have no idea how to do this, any suggestions are welcome)
  
  

  Parts
  

  
  

• Motor Mount
  
• Pulley System
  
• 3250W 180KV Motor
  
  • This thing has an insane amount of torque, it chews up hills without slowing down at all. Very happy with this motor.
    
• Remote
  
• Caliber II Trucks
  
• Power Switch
  
• Longboard Deck
  
  • It’s cheap. Didn’t expect much, but it’s actually fairly nice (at least for a traditional longboard; as noted elsewhere there’s a bit too much flex for it to be a good electric board).
    
• Orangatang Kegel Wheels
  
• VESC
  
• BLE Module
  
• Charger
  
• 10S3P Battery Pack
  
  • This battery with its integrated BMS was plugged in to charge with its polarity accidentally reversed twice (see above), and it still works great.
    
    I spent a total of ~$770 on this board (including wasted parts). It's more than I wanted to spend but I expect it'll last a long time.
    
    Specs:
    
    
• Top speed: 28 MPH (in theory, I've only actually gone up to 16 MPH because of safety concerns :P)
  
• Range: 25-30 miles (extrapolated from the voltage drop on a ~2 mile ride, haven't had time to go on a ride that fully drains the battery)

Hmm.. I'm not familiar with Boosted boards, but I know for the OneWheel XRs that can't do the "CnR" either use a portable power generator like this one

https://www.amazon.com/Rockpals-Portable-Generator-Flashlight-Emergency/dp/B07FFNTGZ6/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1540839497&sr=8-9&keywords=portable+power+300w

​

or they make a Charge and Ride setup with the third pin connected so they can't charge while on the move, but still can charge with the eBay batteries sitting down. The good thing about this setup is that you can control the amperage for charging. In the case of OneWheels, they can handle safely to charge around 5 amps. That charges really really quick so even just sitting and waiting for it to charge isn't too bad. It does, however, affect the battery's long-term condition and whatnot so there are trade-offs.

​

You might be able to solder in a whatever cable the Boosted board uses to charge and pretty much do the same setup. Just have to make sure what voltage and amperage you need to be at and put it to that setting. That said, this is just speculation because I haven't even touched boosted boards before so you're probably going to have to do some research if that would work or not.

This one is white color only, but is built like a tank and has 4 different power levels for solid beam and blinking. It used to be double the price but recently dropped to $10, which is a great deal. Pretty commonly used by the NYC crew here and holds up very well on bumps and such, highly recommended.

I use two on my pack (front and back, with red tape over the rear).

so, i have a boosted board v2 i want to put this lights but i dont want to use the battery power of this lights (on the picture) https://www.amazon.com/Jahyshow-Motorcycle-Helmet-Flashing-Sticker/dp/B07VJL4BD1/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=helmet+led+sticker&qid=1572927072&sr=8-2

i want to use the boosted power, i have a voltmeter, and i have try to measure the boosted ESC for a power source for the led lights, but my knowledge is limited, already change some broken cables successfully (i live in mexico, i can't send the board to warranty, so i fix it my self).

​

If some one can guide me to connect this light directly to the boosted successfully it will be awesome.

I wouldn't trust most full face helmets for under $50. If you are going to be using that board going downhill and full throttle you'll really want a full face helmet. If you're just after life-saving protection then I'd go with something like this https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Tec-CLASSIC-SKATE-Classic-Helmet/dp/B0018GYNEO?th=1&psc=1

​

But if you want full-face protection go with something like this https://www.amazon.com/Bell-Sanction-Bike-Helmet-Hibiscus/dp/B07GT6NDKY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541343354&sr=8-4&keywords=full%2Bface%2Blongboard%2Bhelmet&th=1&psc=1 (THIS IS NOT DOT RATED)

​

Now keep in mind that full-face doesn't have a visor and is not DOT rated so use at your own risk(still betetr than nothing). You can get dirtbike/BMX visors on the cheap or invest $200-$300 for a nice downhill longboarding helmet (That is DOT rated) but those are more designed for racing and are very aerodynamic.

​

I wear that Pro-Tec helmet I linked and take my meepo downhill up to 30mph but I also have a lot of downhill longboarding experience and have been 40+ before. With an E-Skate downhill can actually be more dangerous than a standard longboard due to stopping time and force, especially on an inexperienced rider. The advantage of classic longbaord downhill is sliding stops very quickly and we usually wear gloves with pucks and knee pads. Skate safe!

​

EDIT: As long as the helmet is DOT rated it should be fine, don't feel like what I linked you is the best of the best, just my informed opinion. For more information on why DOT rating on helmets is important: https://ultimatemotorcycling.com/2013/04/08/motorcycle-helmet-standards-explained-dot-ece-22-05-snell/

If you're looking for a great set of gear at a low price with excellent customer service, I HIGHLY recommend the Flybar protection kit. I bought a size large, of which, the knee pads were a tad small. I emailed their customer support and asked to swap out just the knee pads for XL's. They sent me an entire XL set, free of charge.

​

Here's a link if anyone is interested (Non-affiliate link): https://www.amazon.com/Flybar-Elbow-Guards-Protective-Safety/dp/B078MZ1XN2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=flybar+pads&qid=1555248474&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Perhaps you could use something like this, then: AmorModa Electric Cycling Bells 90 dB- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BVSSCX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pWaKBb31VXEXD

It's made for handlebars, but it would be easy enough to palm in your hand and would safely alert people to you.

Let's not forget wearing protective gear no matter what level you are. There's a feeling in the skateboard community that experts don't need to wear protective gear as much because it looks silly and restraints movement to freely ride. I'm no expert nor beginner but I've found that motorcycle gear looks cool and gives the best protection. I'm sporting Jeans with sas pads tactical sniper military gloves two different types of helmets full fac and head shell and a black hoodie with pads that make me look like total buff badass.
http://www.dragginjeans.com/mens/ and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NIR0Y80/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Q4MQNB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEHOCAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If this saves a life from injury it's totally worth it!

I have been using this $16 boost converter successfully to boost 24VDC to 42.5V to charge my 10S battery, with this $15 watt meter to monitor the output. The adjustable voltage and current work great for me, I've charged up to 5A @42.5 volts for a bit but went down to 4A because I don't need that much current for my application as a range extender bolted to the board.

You could probably combine those with a cheap $20 power supply like this or this, or something else that can push even more wattage, make yourself an enclosure of some sort and have an adjustable DC power supply that could charge up to 600 watts anywhere from 12-80v DC.

Fun project, and depending on your needs if you don't need the watt meter, $35 with prime shipping and you could probably meet your needs.

I’ve literally had a rep at shredlights tell me that the red casing for shredlights were particularly bad at holding the rear lights in place. I’ve had multiple people loose their rear lights in group rides.

Trust me we were using them correctly, for the most part it doesn’t matter since they’ll replace them for free but the trouble of waiting for new lights and it being too weak to show much more then two or three feet in front of you just makes it not worth re buying in my personal experience.

Considering there are over 40,000 results for bike lights on amazon I find it unlikely that you’ve tried them all lmao

And yes shredlights do allow for people to see you from a distance, but that’s the bare minimum that they should be doing. I feel bad hearing about people buying shred lights to increase their visibility in night rides when it barely does that.

Here is an example of a light that is far stronger than shredlights that I managed to fit on my boosted board and evolve cerbon gt without issues: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HR2Y6N0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

A headlamp is the best option for seeing exactly what you're looking at. This headlamp is a beast and can easily be used as a regular flashlight too. The battery is rechargable with just a cable, no hub. Additionally, it has 3 regular modes, turbo mode and SOS mode just in case:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZN5LJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I see you (foolishly) don't wear a helmet, but for others that are interested; the headlamp fits under my helmet no problem

​

I put this red light on the back of the board just so I look more like an actual vehicle. It also has a white mode so I'm thinking about getting a second one as a "headlight" I use the quotes because I'm not certain if it's actually bright enough to light my path:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07253G165/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I also grabbed these rechargable lights with a blink or solid color mode. They have a clip built in, but they also come with 2 different length canvas straps so you can attach them to an arm or backpack or just about anything:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071X6V4S3/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

​

You can use a guitar stand to prop it up in a corner. I got one from Amazon for around 8 bucks, although it seems to have gotten a bit more expensive. Fit my Ownboard W1 without doing anything to the stand itself. I also think it's a pretty awesome way to display your board at the same time :D.

i feel more comfortable if i'm wearing a full helmet if i go over 20-25km/h, less than that a normal helmet it's ok.

i'm using this one it's not expensive
https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B001J3OEJ0/

hope it helps :)

Wow the price soared on the one I used. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LBKFYUO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I'm using this one for my Inboard that is 15~16 lbs with battery in. NO sign of tipping over. I think Koowheel is also ~16 lbs so should work fine. I got mine for ~10 bucks, but it's soared since then. But really, any other ones should work fine too and if it doesn't just return say it can't support your instrument. XD

Also found some awesome lights for safety- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HR2Y6N0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I have seen Serfas, and decided against; these have them beat on price and lumens by far. Agree a headlamp or flashlight makes the most sense for visibility though.

While it is added security I don't think you need a motorcycle-like helmet tested for 100+ mph crashes on a 25 mph skateboard. I bought this downhill helmet for ~35 euros https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B001J3OEJ0/ and I've already tested it pretty good (riding on a wet road). Depending on the climate where you live you might look into skiing helmets too.

Pads I've really liked these for the value.

Butt/hip

I feel like hips are under talked about. After my first fall I got these. My hips were the most bruised up part. Even months later I can feel it.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GG7AYLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_ybgADR5AwziBG

I've got this set. Nothing fancy, just very comfortable and gives me all the protection I need :)

COOL - you should have posted it here yesterday: https://www.reddit.com/r/ElectricSkateboarding/comments/9d8vnx/we_need_to_find_a_mobile_mini_honk_to_clear_the/

I'm not complaining though. Someone also posted this one in my thread:

https://www.amazon.com/AmorModa-Electric-Rainproof-Handlebar-Accessories/dp/B07BVSSCX8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1536257585&sr=8-4&keywords=electric+bike+bell

Also, I have the same remote. HOW did you stick that bell on there? Superglue or did you go medieval on that thing?

Sits fine just have to invert the board to fit, or else the kick tail hits the floor.

Top Stage Pro Universal Guitar Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBKFYUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-5CXzbG8M1PW9

You'd look awfully out of place with those work gloves on... I tried riding with my motorcycle gloves once, but they were too bulky to work the trigger comfortably (and they aren't even bulky gloves.) I'm sure you'd have the same issue with the leather ones. Leather gloves, in my experience, are very constricting. Maybe get a pair of wrist guards with the plastic protective part for the palm.

I got this cheap set of pads when I was starting out, and the wrist guards kept me for ripping my hands up when I discovered what wheel bite was. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GG7AYLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475276005&sr=1-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=jbm+set&dpPl=1&dpID=41s9sKJn4-L&ref=plSrch

Edit: I forgot to mention.. they may look silly (or you might think they do), but they work well. They allow you to work a remote reasonably well, and keep you from having to deal with the pain of scraped hands and broken wrists.

Top Stage Pro Universal Guitar Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LBKFYUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_gnu5WimqbJjpw 10 bucks you just bend the arms to fit the board.

Holy crap, matte black is sick! Thanks for the link. Is there any way to remove the green lining though? I'd like it in all black like in one of the customer pics. Also, I found this motorcycle/street bike helmet off amazon, but I read that motorcycle helmets are usually not preferred for eboarding. Any idea why? https://www.amazon.com/ILM-Motorcycle-Street-Helmet-Removable/dp/B01HEHOCAK

>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071X6V4S3/ref=ppx\_od\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o00\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was checking the WOWTAC headlamp you linked, is there a huge noticeable difference between the $20 550 lumens one and the other $30 1050 lumens version? I would prefer not to spend the extra $10 if its not a life changing difference. Not sure which one you own or if you can answer that question

I constantly deal with cars at night as I use my board to commute every day along the bike lane. I removed the elastic strap from one of my camping headlights and then used velcro tape to attach that to the front of my helmet. Similarly, I took a bicycle brake light and used velcro tape to attach that to the back of my helmet. The two of them combined ensures that cars see me at night, especially when they're somewhat close by and preparing to take a right turn in front of me. Seeing as how low to the ground shredlights are, I doubt that they're going to be effective in those high traffic situations. However, you said you're going to be riding at 1am, so maybe my level of visibility won't be as necessary.

Headlamp: $9 (I used an old one that was lying around)

Bike Brake Light: $5

Velcro Tape: $7.50 (You only need a small piece, so you can save the rest for other DIY)

Personally, I think this is the best solution as other board-mounted lights will come loose after a while from the vibrations. Plus, you can look straight at a car that's about to do something stupid and set your headlamp to "flashing" so that they pay attention.

Top Stage® Pro Universal Guitar Stand https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00LBKFYUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_QJoOS2rxq1Na1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LBKFYUO/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LBKFYUO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This works with my GTX AT setup. I can post a pic later once I am off work!

This is what I got

https://www.amazon.com/BRIGHT-Blitzu-Cyborg-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B01HR2Y6N0

A guitar stand this one specifically
https://www.amazon.com/Top-Stage-Universal-Guitar-Stand/dp/B00LBKFYUO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523125976&sr=8-5&keywords=guitar+stands