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Thank you so much for confirming with me. This has helped me come to a better understanding.

I just got into deeper contact with the company that did my splitter and they said it's due to these splitters not being able to process the 4K HDR signal to non-HDR 1080p "proportionally". It was mentioned on their Amazon page, but I didn't grasp what they meant by "proportionally". But whatever this actually means, it does mean that the Elgato cannot fully understand the signal and so it ends up dark/washed out.

As for my monitor getting no signal with HDR enabled, I don't think it's meant to be this way. I told them and they asked for my monitor EDID details, so I think 1080p monitors with the splitter (from 4K HDR to non-HDR 1080p) works just fine as long as the signal is supported. But when it comes to the signal for the Elgato, I don't think the Elgato supports it fully so it cannot work with it properly. I've contacted them for further explanation and details on all of it. Since I only care for capturing, me not being able to see a 1080p image on a monitor when HDR is enabled is not a game breaker, it was just to test if the product did any HDR properly or if it was falsely claimed, but it seems like in this case, it's down to the other product and how it takes a signal.

But details aside, no matter what, HDR will be washed out on the Elgato with these devices. I can only think of that AVerMedia GC573 Live Gamer 4K Capture Card which mentions HDR support as the only method if you truly want to play in 4K HDR and want a brighter/more colorful standard 1080p image.

The only other mention of a way to possibly play in HDR with normal capture is with that HDCP 1.4 splitter. Someone on the Amazon reviews mentioned this splitter to make the signal function properly with an Elgato, but this said reviewer did not try it themselves, so there is no confirmation it works.

As for me, I am just gonna turn off HDR for now when capturing or altogether even. I think I'll forget about it rather easily since I primarily game on PC with non-HDR monitor. I just play the few PS4 HDR exclusives on occasion (though more often recently).

Anyway, thanks again for posting and following up. This has helped me tremendously.

 

P.S. Here's the email details written by them and not my translation (if you want their official details haha)

1) Color washing out issue due to HDR processing. As you've already seen, as soon as HDR is turned on, your 1080p signal gets washed out. Our Splitter can downscale from 4K to 1080p, but it can't process HDR in a 4K source signal to 1080p (non-HDR) proportionally. If there's such a thing as HDR in 1080p, then downscaling from 4K/HDR to 1080p/HDR wouldn't be an issue. Additional scalers are needed in order to downscale HDR from a 4K signal into a non-HDR 1080p signal. This color washing out issue is what you're seeing with your Elgato capture. Unfortunately, there's no solution for this issue currently.

2) For the signal issue with your 1080p monitor, could you please send me the make and model for this monitor? If possible, please help extract the monitor's EDID information for us to analyze. Attached are some instructions for extracting the monitor's EDID information.

For your setup, you only need to keep the EDID DIP switch setting at default (all up).

The video I linked is the raw livestreamed video, no re-uploading or editing from a vod. I livestreamed it on YouTube and after the stream it was saved onto YouTube like that.

I use GPU to record and CPU to stream. Since my GPU is significantly more powerful than my cpu.

The recorded footage, I was going to use as a backup in case something went wrong with the livestreamed footage for whatever reason. Like a bunch of dropped frames or something. But that hasn't happened yet.

My cpu usage when streaming is only around 51% and GPU usage is only 20%.

I have a hard drive that is literally only used for recorded footage. It is fragmented but that's fine because the footage doesn't need to be defragmented. If the footage gets used, it'll only be thrown into Adobe premiere, edited, uploaded, then deleted from the drive. No use in keeping it around if it'll be on my YouTube account forever. But recently I haven't had to use the recorded footage because the livestreamed footage is good enough.

Hope that helps answer your questions! Not trying to debunk anything you're saying, just giving more intimate details about my setup!

I do use a hdmi splitter inbetween the HD 60 pro, ps4 pro (any console for that matter), and my monitor. But that hasn't been an issue for months. I think the purpose of it, if I recall correctly, was to use it to record / stream older consoles like the Xbox 360 with the HD 60 pro. And it works very well for that. So I just kept it in the hardware loop. This is the one that I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F9LVXC

I hope that helps you guys help me!

I'm not bashing Linux. I myself have a Linux server hosted via Quadranet and love it. I run Linux at home with my media server and custom NAS box. Linux is great for an always on, high uptime/availablity server. You wont find me arguing that aspect.

But the fact of the matter remains that outside of professional IT environments, Windows is still the reigning champ with consumer PCs. Thus, the majority of Elgatos customer base is running Windows. Out of all 2000+ people who bought the card on Amazon, only 7 people who reviewed it mentioned Linux.

Now I'll be the first to say that this is not a true representation of every gamer who uses Linux, but the point still remains that Linux itself is still rather a small subset of a larger market.

First, not every gamer/streamer will have a dedicated streaming PC. Then out of that group, you have a smaller subset of users who actually know how to use Linux whereas the majority will probably just install another copy of Windows on the machine and continue on with their day. Personally, I honestly do not think that the majority of any popular streamer out there actually knows how to use Linux anyway, the closest to Linux any of them ever gets to is probably a Mac which is Unix based. If you ever worked in IT, you'll know how the average user is technologically inept.

It's the same reasoning why most applications have Windows and/or Mac installers but typically leave Linux untouched, the market isn't strong enough to justify development costs. Just because Elgato can afford to pay a dev to port the drivers over to Linux, it doesn't include the costs for continued support when they also have to use the same costs to continue development for Windows machines.

I'd love to see Linux support but I'm also not going expect it from them as I know there's probably not enough demand for it to begin with. If that was really the case, then we'd see a lot of independent devs with projects about Linux development on their forums and on github.

HD60s
Not sure if the processor is good for what you want to do - but more importantly the PS3 uses HDCP (I think that’s what it’s called)

To capture a PS3 you’d need to get a splitter that can remove the HDCP to go to the capture card. I use this one:

ViewHD Ultra HD | 4K HDMI 1x2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4D3RTU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got the 4K one only to future proof it Incase I use it with something else, and I got it back in 2017 so it’s unavailable now, BUT I’m sure it’ll give you a good base to figure out what to go for.

Good luck friend!

I also have everything from an nes to the ps4/switch, and what I do is use an rca amplifier and splitter (to keep the signal strong, otherwise it looks dark on my TV), and then I run one video signal to my HD upscaler and then to my elgato capture card, and I run the other video signal straight to my TV. I then take the rca audio that would normally output to my TV, and instead pipe it directly to an analog mixer with USB. The other audio output goes to my upscaler so the audio and video is perfectly synced on the capture card. This gives me zero latency play on the TV and zero latency audio in my headphones, and furthermore allows independent audio control between the stream and my headphones, so I can crank the game volume if needed to listen for gameplay cues.

For hdmi audio, I use an hdmi splitter and run one to my monitor which has a headphone jack - I run this audio to my mixer using a 3.5mm to stereo rca adapter cable, and the other goes to my capture card. Same result, perfectly synced audio for the stream and perfectly synced, independent volume adjustment for my headphones.

You can do this without a mixer by just using a cable adapter to plug into your pc's line in, but there may be some latency involved and any adjustment you do for your headphones will also affect the volume on the stream. Still, a decent USB audio mixer is a good $100 or more, so it helps to do it that way instead if you're on a budget.

Edit: you can do the same with component video, s video, and rbg too, if you buy the right av distribution device. So an rgb modded nes or a ps2/GC can run at their best, if you have the cash to spend on the amplifiers/splitters and upscalers.

This used to be possible with Windows Media Center and a CableCARD PC adapter such as the InfiniTV 4.

https://www.engadget.com/2010/03/30/ceton-infinitv-4-cablecard-tuner-review/

In the setup outlined above, you plug the cable from the wall directly into the device and you can schedule DVR, record to your heart's content and store recorded media on an external HDD if needed all through Windows Media Center. The advantage being you don't have to worry about your DVR box filling up and if you want to keep recorded content, you can move it onto a different storage device if you like. I love recording sporting events to watch later, for example, and when VCRs went away, this method was very helpful.

Unfortunately Microsoft phased Windows Media Center out of later operating systems and it's completely missing from Windows 10. I guess they'd rather you just keep paying that extra $15/month for a stupid DVR cable box.

I mention all of that to counter the previous poster's point about legality. It's not illegal to record shows for your personal enjoyment off of your legally obtained cable access.

As to your original question - yes. Run your HDMI through a powered HDMI splitter such as this one to bypass HDCP encryption and it should work just fine. If it's for personal use, this should be perfectly legal. If it's for uploading to some sort of bay that is loosely associated with Captain Hook and his cohorts, then probably not so much.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004F9LVXC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

gofanco Prophecy Intelligent 4K 60HZ HDR 1x4 HDMI 2.0 Splitter

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HN327D?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This is what I use with my HD60 Pro.
I also use a 4K switch in conjunction with it but I think this is the most cost effective way to solve your problem.
Took a chance on it and it works like a dream.

To answer your question though, the setup you described in your post would work as well if you want to buy a 4k60

I'm not actually sure what more we can do. We've reached a point where Elgato support would likely need to step in to try to figure out why the HD60 S is having issues capturing the PS4's input.

I did find another thread where an HD60 S owner with a system that was well above the listed requirement's on Elgato's site had the same issue with capturing the PS4. They ended up returning the HD60 S in favor of the HD60 Pro (The Pro is absolutely the best device out there for 1080p capture by the way, if you have the PCI-E slot for it) but of course, that card is a bit more pricey usually (Ironically, it's cheaper on Amazon US right now than the HD60 S is, though I'm unsure where you got your HD60 S, what you paid for it, or even what country you are in.)

And as for your motherboard - (incoming slight pointless rant) You do have 2 PCI-E x1 slots that should be accessible above the graphics card. Though, your motherboard is hands down, the most awkward layout board I've seen. The SATA ports are literally in line with the PCI-E slots. Who does that? Those should be down at the bottom end of the board like every other motherboard ever. They shouldn't hamper things if you did decide to move to the Pro though.

---
Rant aside, I'd recommend either contacting Elgato by phone or by ticket here and linking them to this thread to reference the troubleshooting steps we've already taken and confirm that your PC can do it decently well based on GPU hardware acceleration, but that PS4 capture specifically is an issue for the capture card (Based on our findings here, I'm confident that the issue is with the capture card's interpreting of the PS4's signal BEFORE it even gets to your PC. If it were your PC having the issue dealing with the signal, then you would have the same performance issue trying to capture PC as you do capturing PS4.)

What’s your Wii cable setup like? I was using the hyperkin Wii2HDMI cable and was having the same problem.

I play retro games so I had this problem at first but my solution was one of these. I run all of my old consoles to an AV switcher which outputs to a composite splitter. One set of cables is run to my crt tv, the other pair is ran to that AV2HDMI, which is then fed to the elgato. You could forego the splitter altogether, but I like playing on the CRT for authenticity purposes. It’s probably not the best quality just blowing it up like that with the HDMI “upscale”, but at least it was spitting out a signal the elgato liked.

Thank you so much for responding, and for your help. I have found a splitter that should do the job, I really hope it does what I need it to do. there does not seem to be a lot of information out there regarding this type of setup. I cannot seem to find solid solutions ANYWHERE. so I went ahead and ordered this product.....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRY4ZSD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will let you know how it goes! I really hope it works because it would be silly to have to sacrifice all that graphical juiciness because I also want to stream / capture.... especially with the power of the ONE X.

By the way, the link you provided is for some strange device I have no idea haha

I didn't see it, but was this issue new for you? Has it been working fine for a while before now?

If you'd like something quicker than getting a new cable sent, I've tested this specific set with the HD60 S and they work great: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-2-Pack-Samsung-Nintendo/dp/B01LXFJANY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541021080&sr=8-3

You probably have found how non-universal USB Type C is unfortunately. As type C is at this point just the shape of the connector, so it's tough to immediately assume a type C cable will work for data use.

For your ticket though, would be good to find out exactly if it's the card, cable, or something else.

240 is not a supported resolution by the HD60. In order to connect a retro system to the HD60, you not only have to convert the RCA to HDMI, but you have to upscale it as well to a supported resolution.

https://help.elgato.com/customer/portal/articles/1646379-what-resolutions-can-elgato-game-capture-hd60-record-?b_id=360

I use something like this for retro capturing:

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Superior-Composite-Upscaler-Supports/dp/B01M3VOT0U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1499387487&sr=8-5&keywords=rca+to+hdmi+upscaler

The particular one I have isn't listed on Amazon anymore but it's virtually the same thing. The only thing to keep in mind is that when you use this upscaler, it forces the aspect ration to 16:9, so things become a bit wider when you play/capture. If you stream in OBS you can squish the video back to 4:3, or if you're recording you can always convert it back in post using something like Sony Vegas.

You can feed 4K60 into the 4K60 Pro and stream/record at 1080p60. That's what I'd recommend anyways. Streaming at 4k is too tough on the PC hardware and requires insanely good internet to not only upload but on the viewer end, to watch.

You could also go with an HD60 Pro and get a cheaper hardware scaler, like this GoFanco Splitter and scaler.

I have personal experience with the GoFanco and can say this: It works. It will also accept an HDR signal but it DOES NOT convert HDR to SDR properly so you will be left with a washed out image. For all intents and purposes, it DOES NOT convert HDR to SDR.
I tested it with one output connected to a 4K Monitor, and another output to an HD60 S. The monitor received the Xbox One Xs 4K signal and the HD60 S got a scaled 1080p60 signal. The scaling is not the best quality, but its hard to tell from normal viewing distances or when encoding the gameplay for a video.

Hope this helps! -

I got this out works great 4k hdr Dolby vision for 1 out and 1080 on the other might need to pay with the switches to get hdcp but I love it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VP37KMB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JI3QDbZZQNFGA

Hi. Will this be a good HDMI splitter to strip the HDCP signals with a PS4, so I can make animated gifs of Blue Ray discs with? https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Switch-4K-Splitter-Bi-Directional/dp/B079JQ9XXV/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hdmi+splitter&qid=1557621608&s=gateway&sr=8-3


It does say PS4 / Xbox on it already, but I really want to make sure this doesn't get screwed up so I wanted to run it by you first to make sure, you being more knowledgeable than me about this subject. Thank you very much.

I don’t know much about console because I’m mostly a PC gamer but I would try the following things:

1. Get a high quality HDMI cable or just a different one and see if you still have issues.
   
   
2. Use the headphone jack on the console and split the audio — one to your PC and one to your headphones. If you use this method you might need a DAC to amplify the signal before the split. I’ve also found the line splitter sometimes cause noise so you can get a ground loop eliminator.
   
   I would have suggested you switch from on board sound or update your sound drivers but your on a console.
   
   Here’s the splitters, cables, and ground loop eliminator I use:
   
   Splitter - KabelDirekt Pro Series Y Stereo Splitter - 1 x 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female - Y Cable Splitter Produces Equal Audio Output for Headphones, Earphones, and Speakers (0.5ft, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN76HAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fWcxCbK4KWTBN
   
   3.5 to 3.5 - KabelDirekt Pro Series 10 feet ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI88X32?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   GL Eliminator - PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   This setup works for me because I use a sound blaster AE5 and the headphone jack already has an amp in it.
   
   You might try something like this:
   
   Behringer Microamp HA400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t0cxCbPH562B6
   
   So hook up from headphone console output to 4 channel stereo amp input. Then. One out cable to headphone and the other cable to LINE IN on PC and then separate the audio from elgato in OBS
   
   

• good luck, let me know if you have any questions. I’m not a super expert but was able to self resolve most of my audio issues. In my case the skipping was because my PC built in audio sucked and once I switched to a sound blast AE-5 my issues started to disappear. I know that’s not possible on console :/

So something interesting happened, I got another alert from camelcamelcamel about the Elgato price, and this time it's the same $122 price, but a different Chinese seller (zhaogaisheng). Here's the item link:

https://www.amazon.com/Elgato-superior-technology-hardware-encoding/dp/B014MQIVPS/ref=sr_1_1?m=A1R7GLXG8ETXTQ&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1473264778&sr=1-1&keywords=elgato

And then I checked, and the seller who I bought from (shilijun) has had his Elgato listing taken down, and in fact his whole storefront is now empty. I think I'm going to try messaging shilijun, but a response is probably wishful thinking.

I did get an email from Amazon saying that my item had shipped, and in fact I got a tracking number as well, in the format of LI#########US, where the #'s are numbers (9 numbers in total). On Amazon, it says the carrier is USPS, but when I put the number in, I don't get any results. The same thing when I tried putting it in on Chinese tracking sites.

Yes, I use this one and it works perfectly to bypass HDCP on all my consoles and PC.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CCMOMM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hello All-- To play the xbox one x at 4k and record at 1080/60, we can use the gofanco 4ksplittter/scaler. This device is a plug and play from amazon that requires no setup other than just plugging in the hdmi's. Only $55 which is really good considering comparable equipment to get this task done.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HJWF31/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The way I did my setup was to run a 3.5mm aux cable from my gaming pc’s green stereo drive port on the back of the motherboard into a grounded loop noise isolator like this one to help the popping and static when transitioning from digital to analog,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sjtZBb6M2T7WA


Then I ran the 3.5mm end of the ground loop into the red microphone port on the back of my streaming pc. That way I could go into my Sound Settings and look at my recording devices and there should be a new input there from your gaming computer. Go into the properties and there should be a tick box for your streaming pc to always listen to your gaming pc and output it through your streaming pc.

That way I only had one set of speakers listening to both PCs, and I could use the new recording device as a sound input in Elgato Sound Control in OBS to stream the sound from my gaming pc and listen to it at the same time.

It might sound confusing but the cables and everything are relatively cheap.

I’m at work but if you need more help I’ll draw a layout for you later if you want.

Sorry but I need one more just to be sure and then I will definitely look for a desktop but would you think this one will do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FF5RLWN/ref=psdc_13896615011_t1_B07FCRYHHN

Yep, that doesn't work. In order for 4K to work, EVERYTHING downstream, from console to display needs to be 4K capable. The splitter you posted is just a splitter rated for 4K HDR. The Xbox is still seeing both displays connected to it and displaying the lowest common denominator.


An active spliter would be processing the downscaling itself, marking it the "end of the line" as far as the Xbox was concerned. And being a 4K device would enable that option.


Something similar to this is what you are looking for:
https://www.amazon.com/Echo-Split-HDMI-Splitter-Downscaling/dp/B07DWK3PQ9

Unless you have the BenQ RL2460 Monitor, the HDMI splitter does the job. I use This One The Elgato it being powered on by your computer instead of it's on external power so the picture isn't the clearest. You will notice it most with the reds but it's all colors. I highly suggest the one i attached, i have my XB1X to the splitter and use a 4K monitor to play while the HD60S captures in crisp 1080p. There's an option for 2 instead of 4 but this works out for game day with multiple TVs around with a get together.

That looks good! Would an Anker 3.0 hub work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=verbatrix08-20&linkId=b451e63ec3a20b6abd3d7d766d46783c

​

Does this kind of hub just work on its own? No need for other USB ports Or is it powered by another, already in there USB port? Because if that's how it works, I think I only have 2.0s.

You might be getting some feedback from an aux input, I had a similar problem when I was running a dual card setup to record and stream at the same time on xbox. Im on PC now and I still use this, it works great!

If there is an amount of static being picked up, I would recommend buying a ground loop isolator. This is what I have for my setup: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

gofanco Prophecy Intelligent 4K 60HZ HDR 1x4 HDMI 2.0 Splitter - 4:4:4, 3D, HDMI 2.0a, HDCP 2.2, EDID, 18Gbps, Auto Scaling, Low Heat, Cascadable, Firmware Upgradable, 4 port 1 in 4 out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HN327D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oFp.AbG6DQ55G

Do you see any red lights with this product?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VP37KMB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A28K0QBH3Z1QKZ&psc=1

You’d need a scaler:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HN327D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oFp.AbG6DQ55G

Either that, or pick up a different vendor’s capture cards that have a built-in scaler and 4K passthrough.
https://www.razer.com/gaming-broadcaster/razer-ripsaw-hd

Hello! I think the only way to actually do that is by using an HDCP stripping device such as this one. d('u 'd)

[insert boilerplate about how using a splitter that can strip HDCP to bypass copy protection may not be legal yadda yadda yadda]

​

I personally use https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Powered-Splitter-1080P-Model/dp/B004F9LVXC and have had no issues with capturing my PS3 or PSTV.

I was in a similar setup and was unable to get around it. I bought a splitter to try and get around the issue but it still didn't work. I believe it's a restriction in Windows and we should probably submit feedback to MS via Windows and get it bumped here. I've gone back to single PC streaming so that I get full FPS in my games.