(Part 2) Best products from r/Equestrian

"Letting out" is in generally a difficult, expensive process that can yield mixed results. Based on that, I would guess that it might not be worth it to have them let out, especially if you think you might like to settle back into a 26 sometime in the next year or so.

Personally, I'd buy some less expensive breeches (but still decent) for the meantime and put the ts away. I don't think selling them at the moment is going to be particularly beneficial for your state of mind right now, (though maybe Im wrong) but it's always and option down the road.

https://www.amazon.com/Irideon-Hampshire-Breech-Tan-28/dp/B00JBIEP5I/ref=sr_1_1?s=sports-and-fitness&ie=UTF8&qid=1475119040&sr=1-1&keywords=irideon%2Bhampshire%2Bbreeches&th=1&psc=1

These aren't tailored's but this I what I show in and I really like them especially for under $100. Its a medium thickness, breathable, slightly elastic material, but it's styled like a breech. (substantial waistband, numerical sizing etc.) They might be a good option while your weight is fluctuating because they have some give, look nice, and are priced well.

Two caveats, these fit well if you tend carry weight in you butt and thighs rather than you hips and waist. I've seen some people complain that they can sag in the butt if you don't fill them out. Also, they have a euroseat, which may not be the style youre looking for.

Best of luck!

Welcome to Twinkle Toes!

It's more expensive on Amazon than at State Line Tack but it's pretty widely available. I think if you let the coats dry in between applications, you can get pretty good coverage. Definitely fine for at least occasional use, probably fine for more regular applications too.

It's the scourge of traditional instructors everywhere, and the delight of many a 10 year old girl: https://www.amazon.com/Twinkle-Glitter-Products-Toes-Polish/dp/B00DU7HGPM
(Not that's there's anything wrong with that)

http://www.statelinetack.com/item/twinkle-toes-hoof-polish/SLT700300/

ETA: This is one of the reviews from the Amazon page, doesn't sound like a bad idea!
> This is a bust. I used a whole bottle to get a medium glitter coverage on my mule's hooves for a parade. You have to let each layer dry then do another coat, it took 5 coats on each hoof to look just OK. And was I ever jealous when an equestrian drill team group showed me how they had done their spectacular turquoise hooves: with watered down Elmer's glue and regular glitter that you can buy by the pound cheap. They coated the hooves with glue, then put the glitter into a squeeze bottle and dumped it over the hoof, catching the extra in a box lid and returning it to the bottle. THAT is what I will do next time.

I can't see any harm coming from that glue trick and it probably looks great.

Gloves are nice sometimes, but they aren't by any means essential. If you do show, a pair of black gloves will be good. Personally, I like my Heritage Performance gloves. They aren't too expensive and they last a long time.

As for breeches, TuffRiders are great. Mine are 6 years old and still in decent shape. But, for inexpensive and not too warm, Devonaire makes wonderful stuff.

As for show shirts and all that, don't worry about buying anything too fancy for the lower levels. A nice clean polo shirt and khaki breeches will be just fine.

Congrats on your saddle!

I have also heard so many different things about how you should clean the saddle and how often. I have given up on understanding reasons behind it.

My routine (every 1-2 weeks): Use saddle soap to clean the saddle everywhere, dry off with a smooth cloth, apply leather balm sparsely with a little sponge and mostly only to areas that are particularly dry or scuffed up - particularly the straps (though I have also already heard that that supposedly is bad). I do not use it underneath the saddle and very rarely apply it to the seat. Let it soak in a little bit and polish with cloth.

Other advice I heard (and sounds reasonable, though I certainly don't practice all of this myself):

• Store it on a proper saddle rack that supports the cushions.
  
• Don't keep your wet girth on top of the saddle.
  
• Alternate from which side you mount.
  
• Use a saddle cover while you store it. It protects the saddle from dust and a good one will also draw the humidity out of it after use.
  
• Clean your stir-ups before you tie them up or use little covers like this to keep sand from scuffing up the saddle.
  
• Don't use a saddle for lunging on sand (too much sand dust getting on the saddle).
  
• Apply zipper oil to the metal thing that holds the stir-ups (German "Sturzfeder") and the little ring at the front.
  
  My bridle gets cleaned more frequently. I try to quickly go over it with saddle soap every few days and apply leather balm to the worst straps about once a week. But I only take it apart about every 2 months (probably shame on me).
  The bit gets rinsed off after every ride. After several weeks or months you can soak it in baking soda to remove any excessive build up. If you are at a show, leather wipes like these give it a nice quick finish.

Which wilderness?! I spent last summer riding in the WY backcountry and it was spectacular! Excited to get back out there next month! Are you going to be working for an outfitter out in the backcountry or stayin more at the ranch?

Ariat is a good brand honestly, I have the 'english' terrain boots (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UB9MD0K/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and the only reason I dont wear them in the backcountry is because i dont want them to get beat up! (The new style is a tall boot and way more expensive). I read reviews and ordered a size up compared to my tall boots per the recommendations of the reviewers so keep an eye out for that because I hear the pull ons in general can run small. (Also think of fitting thick wool socks because riding boots are THIN in those frosty early mornings)

Lots of folks just wear pull on ropers or packer boots. Insulated boots are nice in the early spring and late fall snows. Last year I wore a pair of Double H women's packers that I got at a thrift store. They're TERRIFIC boots but the heel is high and the tread is thin for how much walking I do in a day (aka they're more of a 'riding' boot). Heard good thing about Kennetrek packers too (more of duck boot style). Outfitter camps can get really muddy in the back country, so depending on how much you're going to be in camp it might be nice to have more of a muck boot. In fall I wear the arctic muckboots.

Your employer probably will have some recommendations particular to what they know to work, so maybe ask them! Hard to give a specific recommendations without knowin what your day to day will look like.

Tuff Rider ventilated tights! THIN and has mesh but arent see through on the mesh (so long as you get the right size - if you get them too small, too tight, the mesh may be see through) AND they are under 40!!!! i would not show in these unless it was a SUPER CASUAL fun show.

https://www.amazon.com/TuffRider-Womens-Ventilated-Schooling-Tights/dp/B002HOBYG6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467857082&sr=8-1&keywords=tuffrider+ventilated+tights

I learned a lot of the stuff I know about horse care from "The Everything Horse Care Book"

which is also available on the Google Play store if you like to read on an Android tablet/phone.

I've never told anyone but when they wonder how I know the things I do about horse care, that book is it. It's not even very long.

But if you're going to get into riding itself too, just find a lesson place that looks good and has plenty of reviews on Google or Facebook or wherever. Most riding places that you'll find will accept complete beginners.

This is a threshold issue, not a bit issue. You need to work her on controlling her impulses, not use more pain. It takes time, but is not complicated. The only change I would make is either use a full-cheek snaffle or a side-pull- something that has a safe lateral pull which will not pull through her mouth or cause damage. I have had success with a super-S, although that can be a bit severe- wrap the metal part with vetwrap.

The Reason- the "competitiveness" built into racehorses and often tortured into barrel horses in not a healthy one, often. It is based on fear. As a herd animal, being left behind meant being eaten. Using pain to control a reaction to fear creates more fear. I know she probably does love running, but the ROOT of the sudden urge to run is still fear.
Barrel horses are seldom given a chance to develop their speed (MANY EXCEPTIONS, I KNOW) in a healthy manner. I have seen 3 year olds barely 3 months into training ridden in twisted wire gags, ridden with sharp spurs and over-unders. If your horse was raced for many years, then it is DEEPLY ingrained that when she needs to run she NEEDS TO RUN NOW OR IT HURTSSSSSS.

WHAT YOU WANT- You want her to turn to you for instruction when she is startled or unsure. This is conditioning rather than training- meaning you need to make it a reflexive response rather than a conscious decision. Think about how long it would take you to teach yourself to stand on one foot and put your hands on your head instantly whenever you are startled... Teaching a horse to not run when they have the urge makes just as little sense to a horse as that does to us, and takes as much time.

Co-LESSON- You also want to re-set your horse's response to confinement. For the same reasons as above.

BEST RESOURCE- The best resource for both, in my experience, is John Lyon's methods. You don't have to do the round-pen part, but it helps. He has a book titled "Troubleshooting" which briefly describes good fixes for all these problems, and the Ground Control Manual is very in-depth, and worth every penny if you figure to be working with green or young horses in the future. I also like the Tellington method.

BRIEF EXPLANATION: For confinement, you need to go back to the basics of "give to pressure". I know she already seems to know this, but she doesn't retain it under pressure. Work on it every day. I use a clicker and treats to very great affect with abused and skittish horses- it works, but get the book so you don't accidentally create a treat-mugger. (Clicker Training For Your Horse, from the Karen Pryor website) The great thing about clicker training is that you can do a little bit- a minute or two several times throughout your visit with your horse.

For the bolting/barn/herd sour behavior- choose a pattern of basic movements. I do "walk 3 steps, stop, bend left then right, turn right, walk stop, repeat". Having a set of simple exercises you can turn to when your horse is upset is a great way to relax them, turn their attention back onto you, calm YOU, and gives you credibility with the horse. Do these exercises in the arena, a LOT, until you notice that your horse relaxes when you do so. Then, go out of the arena a bit. If she is calm, continue. As soon as she starts to get even the slightest bit tense, do several repetitions of your chosen exercise. If she gets too tense, go back until she is calm. I know it is the presense of the other horse which triggers her bolting, but start this exercise alone. When you can do the whole trail ride, including coming home, with her calm- THEN add another stressor in the form of another horse. Begin again in the arena. Walk side by side, then turn away and put her through the exercises as the other horse continues. Then do this as the horse trots, then canters, then runs away. Do not continue to the next step until she is calm, head down, ears to you, no matter what the other horse does. When the other horse can bolt away from yours, THEN repeat this exercise further and further away from the arena. Remember, you have to pull her head to the side BEFORE she takes more than a step, preferably as soon as she tenses to launch. If you drop the outside rein and pull her head towards your boot, she CANNOT run away with you. Unless you are a pixie and she is a draft horse, you are stronger than just her neck. Don't even try to pull back or make her stop that way. If she continues to freak out, bail off. (practice this!!!!!!!) If she DOES freak out, then you have exceeded her threshold and you need to go back a step or two.

Add these to your early xmas wish list:


http://www.amazon.com/John-Lyons-Troubleshooting/dp/1929164319/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1408841539&sr=1-4&keywords=john+lyons

http://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Horse-Behavior-Training-Book-ebook/dp/B009Z76QE8/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1408841570&sr=1-1&keywords=tellington-jones

http://www.amazon.com/Clicker-Training-Horse-Alexandra-Kurland/dp/1890948357/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1408841597&sr=1-1&keywords=clicker+training+for+your+horse

When my hair was short I went with a wide spandexy headband (with a bead of silicone around the edge to make it grippy like this) plus whatever was long enough to pull back in a ponytail secured with a grippy hair band like these, which happen to be the grippiest hair ties I've ever used by a long shot.

It was not an attractive look sans helmet, but it got the job done.

Those buff things look like they could be great for helmet-funk-prevention in addition to keeping the hair under control. If you try them let us know how it works!

How about a Jolly Ball? My horse always throws her rubber grain pan around her pen, so I'm intending to buy her a Jolly Ball that she can throw around instead. There are also treat toys you can hang from the ceiling for them to munch on, and snack-filled toysthat they have to work at to get a reward. One of our horses has a Pas-a-Fier, and I'd say to go ahead and ignore the negative reviews people put up about their horses ignoring it. Our guy constantly plays with it until he can go out and run around. If you have more than one horse, you're pretty much guaranteed to find one who'll like it (unless you just plain have bad luck).

Jolly Balls and treat hangers tend to be the cheapest, and I've actually found that the mega-sizes of Kong dog toys work great for small ponies and miniature horses.

I have an old HDR lesson saddle that was gifted to me when my trainer closed shop. I use Fiebengs Saddle soap on it once a week and it went from a squeaking nightmare to a soft, supple saddle in 2 treatments. I love this stuff. In the past I’ve used stübbon’s cleaner and polish for my saddles but it always left them gooey and sticky. This stiff rubs in well and looks great.

Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap, 12 Ounce - Cleans, Softens and Preserves Leather https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GRSVTK4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Action-Smartphone-Smartphone-Strongest/dp/B00OLZ4JLQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540248538&sr=8-5&keywords=chest+mount+iphone&dpID=41VCpoJbnTL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


https://www.amazon.com/UBeesize-Portable-Adjustable-Bluetooth-Universal/dp/B06Y2VP3C7/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540248617&sr=8-5&keywords=iphone+tripod&dpID=41pJ3kvdsNL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

i use something like this! not a high quality camera itself but useful if you have a good phone or know someone who does!

I wear a Panache underwire sports bra. I'm a 30GG, so I need the support. And it does a pretty good job. I had to size down to a 30G in the sports bra because of shape issues, though.

Eta: I got mine from Amazon here http://www.amazon.com/Panache-Womens-Underwired-Sports-Black/dp/B005VNFJFW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451699304&sr=8-1&keywords=panache+sports+bra

I was so frustrated when I started trotting! I could sit the canter, no problems - somehow the slower rhythm worked for me, but that canter -jeesh. I would be sore and cramp up and tense up.
I got my self some theoretical knowledge from Sally Swift in the book "centered riding" it really helped me and she has some great mind tricks you can use on yourself, as well as some interesting exercise you can talk to your trainer about.
I also really like that the book isn't just for beginners, so as I've progressed in riding, I've also advanced in the book.
Here is a link to amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Centered-Riding-Trafalgar-Square-Farm/dp/0312127340/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1377851359&sr=1-1&keywords=sally+swift+centered+riding

also, try doing just short bits. so start trotting and once you loose your rhythm go back to a walk. then trot again, and back and just keep doing that. you'll notice that the trot sessions will get longer.
With the canter I found that the opposite helped me. I needed a few circles to get the rhythm down. which reminds me - are you on a lunge line? it really helped me concentrate on the seat and rhythm because I didn't have to concentrate on make the horse go and telling her where i wanted to go.

I use this on my own hair and was toting it out for the horse's so often that I finally had to buy them a barn bottle. It's extremely moisturizing, a little goes a long way, and costs a whopping $2-$3 at Target. Put it on a matt and massage it in with your fingers and then you can work the tangle out by hand surprisingly easily. I also run it through their manes and Tails regularly (I rarely brush them) and it keeps it soft.

If you show don't let it touch their mane for a week or so or braiding will be no fun!