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Yup, those are definitely things I would recommend. The plugs you can do in 5 mins. Ford uses double platinum plugs stock. You can either get the Motorcraft or the Autolite double platinum and they'll work great and are pretty cheap. I bought the Autolite at Advanced for like $15 two years ago and they work great. While you're at it, I'd also recommend you change the plug cables. Denso make the plugs for Ford, so you can get the original part directly through them for cheaper.

http://smile.amazon.com/Denso-671-4061-Original-Equipment-Replacement/dp/B000EQB36A?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Oil you can use high-mileage or synthetic. I prefer to use synthetic because it's higher quality, protects the engine better and it's either a bit cheaper or the same cost-wise. I change mine every 6K miles and just pick out whatever 5W-30 full synthetic with filter they have at Advanced. It's usually $20 or $25, while conventional high-mileage is $18-21 but that you should change every 4K or so so it's not actually cheaper.

You should definitely change the brake discs. You could buy the original but good quality replacements can also be had like ACDelco or Raybestos.

The water pump... well I'll be honest, mine has the original one. The water pump typically doesn't fail or leak on these. Mine hasn't leaked any coolant at all and the original radiator seems to be holding up fine too. If you wanna replace it as a preventative measure you could and it's easier than most cars because it's not connected to the belt. It's a 1 hour job if you're experienced, around 2 if not.

I would definitely, definitely recommend you do the valve cover gasket and rear dogbone control arm if they haven't been done. Do not use any silicone on the valve cover. Reason why it's important to change is because the rubber breaks and engine oil will start leaking into the plugs, fouling them and if it's bad enough can cause the car to misfire. Change them every 60K or so. That rear control arm is very important too because it has to do with rear tire wear. That control arm is the one that sets the rear camber of the car, and at around 100K miles the rubber breaks and you'll be able to notice because of the rear camber. Tires will last 1/3 of what they should unless you replace it. It has independent rear suspension which is great for handling, but it also causes that.

http://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-521-416-Control-Arm/dp/B004AIS1R2/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462747313&vehicle=2001-54-679-49--1-8-5-3458--1-1-747--2-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2001%3Aford%3Afocus

Any car with that mileage you should check the front and rear shocks. The rear are super easy to do. I followed a video and did it in 10 mins total. The front are a bit tricky so those take around an hour. If you want it to ride like stock use Monroe, if you want a bit sportier/stiffer use KYB.

same issue was had for my 2013 escape. Tried to torque my lugs just to make sure they were tight before driving to the shop to have them take a look at some pretty minor alignment issues, when my Ford provided wrench slipped and destroyed each and every lug I even tried to get the wrench on.
After some research, I was pretty shocked and most definitely frustrated to find this is not unique to me.

Ford makes/uses absolute GARBAGE lugs for pretty much every model. Thanks Motorcraft!

After a lot of digging and research (I don't like to play guessing games with quality and compatibility, especially with auto parts), I found These

PS: when I say research, I mean literally finding blueprint schematics and measurements of lug design for the current Motorcraft lugs and taking measurements and molds of the lug space in the rim to compare to information available for accuracy's sake, and for reference when buying replacements. I did not skimp in the "time for complete and total accuracy" department.

Granted, they are 12x1.5, but the pitch is exact. I'd have to look if they also make a M14 that would fit yours. The reviews were on point for these and there is a lot to choose from. Yes, I was skeptical with the price being so affordable, but these have been on my Escape through the Florida weather that beat down all last year, as well as a full long summer's worth of Dallas heat. They still look and function flawlessly.

Still cannot fathom why Ford is using those garbage capped lugs. Advice to all Ford owners, 1st order of business when bringing home a new blue oval vehicle: BUY NEW LUGS.

Will report back with link to correct lugs for your situation, when time allows.




EDIT: check out These or These

Good Luck! Feel free to comment/PM with any questions or advice.

Again, these are my suggestions only from experience. I can't speak on any other products from this company, (aka: don't take this as a brand endorsement and roast me from anything DP makes that you make think sucks from experience) this is just the solution that worked best for me.

Other options include the appearance package, MyFord Touch (is possible to get real nav on this even though it didn't get the $800 nav package?) and the backup camera.

I loved the color the moment I saw it. Sometimes I feel its a little on the girly side, but I don't care. The color is absolutely gorgeous. and the red stitching on the interior really brings it out.

Two complaints though.

1. I seem to get WAY LESS gas mileage on my 2012 Focus sedan that I traded in. On the Focus I would average 32 city/highway but on this Fusion I'm getting 16. I really hope it just needs to be broken in. I knew I was going to get less MPG but this is more than I expected.
   
   
2. The touch screen is constantly getting finger printed. Is it save to use these Carl Zeiss wipes on it? It came with a microfiber cloth but it doesn't do anything. If I spray some lens cleaner solution from eye glasses shops it works but I don't know if it's safe for the screen.

Wow thank you very much!
Based on that, I found 2 candidates

1. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GBBN2Q6/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GGWGN8C/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
   
   ​
   
   Both of the products says this on the product's description:
   
   ​
   
   OEM Part Number**:
   
   P76863M, FG1532, BV6Z-9H307H, BV6Z-9H307P, BV6Z-9H307U, PFS-1092, PFS-609, SP2516M
   
   ​
   
   But my OEM part number is BV619H307UA,** does that mean mine is not compatible with those 2?
   
   thank you very much for your kind help!

Make sure you’re car is clean before you put that cover on/off. Any dust/debris/dirt you have on the car can scratch the paint from the friction of putting it on/taking off. It might not show up after a few times, but will over time/repeated uses.

I say that because the cover looks so snug.

I understand it’s a balancing act, since the alternative is a dusty car.

To remove minor dust before you put the cover on, you could use something like a waterless wash or ONR in a 32 oz spray bottle (2 capfuls per 32 oz) and microfiber towels.

If you knew that already, then I am saying it for others. :)

My buddy’s picking up an RS on Thursday. What a car!

I have an 07 Mustang and 04 F-150 FX4 with stereos that have identical layouts. Mustang came with satellite radio subscription for some period, and has an auxiliary input jack in the console. Same Aux button used for satellite or aux jack.

That led me to wonder if I could get an auxiliary jack for the F-150, even though it didn’t have anything connected to that input when I bought it.

I found the part I needed, then had a local car stereo shop install it, since it involved some disassembly and reassembly. It ended up being a lot more complicated than they expected, and took a lot longer, but they honored the price they quoted.

IIRC, the part itself wasn’t that complicated. Almost like a red/white (RCA) to 1/8th. The end that plugs into my phone/mp3 player runs through the glovebox.

BUT - lately, instead of that, I have been using a Bluetooth adapter that broadcasts to FM. I had a couple that were lousy, but the current one works better than the hardwired aux line in the F-150 (which sometimes crackles). It’s a lot cheaper and can move from vehicle to vehicle. Only downside is when I am too close to an FM station broadcasting at that frequency.

ETA - I think I went through the same “feature is there” circle. Technically, the aux button is there, and would function if there was an accessory connected to it for you to “select” by pressing that button.

The back end of things might have been through a part like this that then connected to a red/white to the piece that connects to a 1/8th jack (maybe this) or whatever you’re trying to connect.

Do a little research but as long as you still have at least one original key you can go to amazon and order a blank like the one here http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BSHY6MC/ref=pd_aw_sbs_3?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1 . Then just find a place that will copy car keys

I'm at work right now and eBay is blocked here, so I can't view that link. It's something like this

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-5606-Compression-Tester-Kit/dp/B000R5CPAQ

It's just a PSI gauge that's threaded like a spark plug on the hose end. Most of them will come with a few different adapters, to fit different types of spark plugs. There isn't much else you can check on without starting to take the engine apart.

Looks similar to the one I needed for my 2000 XLT. I found mine on amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LU8N1M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Checked their guide and it said this one should fit. If not maybe it can be a starting point for you to work with. Hope you find what you need!

I wouldn’t cheap out on brake parts. I installed the following parts in oct 2016 when my truck had around 28k miles and now at around 59k miles, brakes have been great!

Here’s what I used.
I used Wagner rotors from rockauto part number BD126433E.
And brakes pads from amazon
Wagner ThermoQuiet QC1414 Ceramic Disc Pad Set With Installation Hardware, Front https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A6BV08/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4GSCCb3NT4TYV

Win Power 9012 LED Headlight Bulbs Conversion Kit 6000k Cool White 7200 Lumens HIR2 Cree High/Low Headlight Bulb Replacement+ Canbus(1 Pair)-2 Year Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU0X4X4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_u0JIAb8NTAZCC

This fits your car

$25-$35 depending on where you buy the key from. This videos gives you all the information and also includes programming. Do not go to the dealer because it's a very simple process which they like to charge big $ for. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pK6qs3jwdys

Keys can be purchased anywhere like ebay or Amazon, for example: https://www.amazon.ca/Keyless2Go-Keyless-Replacement-OUCD6000022-164-R8067/dp/B00XZ9PEL8/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1480021273&sr=8-14&keywords=ford+f150+key

Canuba wax when I feel ambitious. I really like the Griots speed shine in between waxes

If you want cheaper, get an FM Modulator and this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJFGE0K

I use this one in my Subaru and plug it into an aux jack and its great!

And if you're electronically proficient, here's a way to add an aux hard wired to the radio: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=luqvjfCjYbA

Looks like Amazon has them

https://www.amazon.com/Paramount-Restyling-41-0160-Raptor-Style-Packaged/dp/B016RURADQ


Here's one that comes with the F and R

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079YY93GY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B079YY93GY&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=950202000752607969&pf_rd_r=5N9Q8RGF2G7H8ZBNBWW7&pd_rd_wg=a2psM&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=HHp5f&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=99da0b92-59fa-11e8-a532-1b8228080e91