(Part 2) Best products from r/FordDiesels

I will do this as well. I dont know what type I should buy though. Google isnt helping me out much because I really don't know what I'm looking at. I found this one on Amazon that says will fit my truck.

If you google the part number for the 'waste gate solenoid' it comes up as a Dorman part number for the VGT solenoid via Amazon

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https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Solutions-Variable-Geometry-Turbocharger/dp/B00Z7NRJF4

No problem. I love wiring! (Feel free to DM me in the future with any electrical questions) but as for the charger, I'm talking about the kind you plug into 120 volt wall socket and it has the clamps that put 12 volts to your battery.. It's not the exact one I have, but you get the idea. I basically cut the clamps off and crimped on eyelet connectors and connected them to my power bank, which is fused. I mounted it inside a cabinet so when I need to charge it I just drag an extension cord out to it and plug it in. And to charge it off the truck, your F-250 should have a 7-pin trailer connector which has a wire to charge trailer batteries. I just hope that up appropriately and it charges whenever the truck is running.

Just thought I would follow up with you after your help the other day. I got a 454T module which is supposed to solve my problem. The signal coming off my tach wire was too weak.

Get an upgraded steering stabilizer. The stock part is absolute junk and will get very wobbly within 30,000 miles. I bought a Fox 2.0 stabilizer and it's fantastic both on and off road. I will not be lifting my 2017 Lariat but will be adding Fox shocks when the Ranchos go.
https://www.amazon.com/Fox-985-24-001-FOX-Steering-Stabilizer/dp/B01E405RKE

I just did my whole front end about a month ago. XRF tie rod ends, drag link and ball joints. Put in a 3" lift kit at the same time so I also installed a Rough Country adjustable track bar. 06 F350 6.0 CCLB

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A lot of good tips in this thread but some things to mention about the track bar if you choose to do that too. If it's never been replaced then that ball joint on the passenger side will be a pain, you need a 9" ball joint press and a second set of hands. I ended up having to rent a kit from Advance Auto to get the right size cup and ordering a 9" clamp/press off Amazon for $80. You're also going to want a strong 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar to tighten the clamp, with a LONG pipe for leverage. It took everything in me with a 5' pipe on my ratchet.

The nut on the bottom of that ball joint is also torqued to 186 ft-lbs and the driver side is torqued to 406 ft-lbs, I didn't have anything to torque that high and broke a snap-on breaker bar in the process so I just asked the alignment place if they could torque them down for me.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001H1IRTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I bought. I suppose there's a possibility it could just be a bad sensor right out of the box.

edit: Looks like I may have bought the wrong sensor? Now I'm not really sure which one of these I need as comments on both show people claiming they work with the 7.3. Here's the other.

The one I bought is the F4TZ, this one is the F7TZ

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-F7TZ-12K073-B-F7TZ-12K073-B-SENSOR-CAMSHAFT-PO/dp/B001H1OFZM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

edit 2: After checking with Ford the F7TZ is the right part number. Both will fit however.

I have this Viper remote start/keyless entry/alarm.

The installer can set it up many different ways, including duration to fire flow plugs before starting and duration to leave it running (to cool the turbo) after exiting the vehicle.

This is a one-way remote system: the remote sends a command to the truck, but the truck doesn't communicate back to the remote to show any kind of status. Two-way remotes are available, and can display if a door is left open, window is broken, remote start failed, etc.

This one can be set up to start the engine and idle for a while if your battery drops below a certain voltage. Handy if you leave it in a parking garage for a couple weeks, you won't come back to a dead truck.

I like the system. The remote is durable and slim and works really far away. The remote chirps to let you know it is sending a signal, and the vehicle chirps to let you know the signal was received. The chirps can be silenced if you want.

My 1997 obs powerstroke needed some additional relays added to the power locks (which are powered through the door switch, and not through a relay) before the installation could be completed. Car Toys did it in a day. It wasn't cheap. Insist that they solder everything, or take it elsewhere. They need to make it look factory quality under the dash.

I've had mine for about a year now. Love it!

Marino plug on Amazon. I've put them on every diesel I've had. My current is hard wired for a battery tender and block heater. Timer goes on at 3 AM and battery gets a trickle while the block heater gets to work.

I did 2008 mirrors from amazon, they fit fine but I did have to cut a small plastic tab off. I haven’t tried to wire them up yet because I’m a lazy bastard. Amazon Mirrors on my truck

Amazon Link