Best products from r/FordTrucks

>Then I later read that this is a bad thing, because the stock housings project light in a way designed for the stock bulbs, and you should swap them out for LED friendly housings.
>
>Is this true?

https://www.facebook.com/368127183622033/posts/706030956498319/?sfnsn=mo

Yes, 100% true. With these drop-in LED kits, you either create excessive glare, poor sight distance for yourself, or most likely both.

There's probably going to be some people coming into this thread and screaming about how this LED or that LED helps them see better. They honestly believe that. But the issue is that as the testing above shows, LEDs do not create the proper beam pattern in halogen housings. You can get excessive glare, and if you try to compensate for that, you end up losing distance light and getting a whole lotta foreground light, which helps you see exactly what it is that you're going to hit. You want light to help see what you don't wanna hit, not light that's 30 feet ahead of your F-150 because that's only going to help you see what you're about to run over at speeds over 30 MPH (44 feet per second).

Foreground lighting, unfortunately, is the number one determinant of how people rate headlamps. People think that foreground lighting is a good thing, and people subjectively prefer a lot of foreground lighting, and headlamp designers know that, but we cannot blow up the foreground with light as that would literally make cars more dangerous. These LED kits almost always create a ton of foreground light, which provides a false sense of security.


>Even more later I found I want to install a leveling kit, as my front hitch is a little lower to the ground than I want. So that creates the potential of LED bulbs in the wrong housings AND pointed straight at people's eyeballs.
>
>I don't wanna be that guy. How can I level the truck without blinding my fellow humans?

You ideally want to use the headlamp adjustment screws on your headlamps to aim them downward slightly after lifting the truck. This would ideally be done with a headlamp aiming machine.

If not available, this is acceptable.

https://owner.ford.com/support/how-tos/exterior/lights/how-to-adjust-headlights.html#

Thank you for keeping other drivers in mind!! It really benefits you to keep glare in check, especially after a suspension adjustment, as it could be keeping other drivers from running into you after being dazzled by your lights.

Hi, I know this was posted a couple of days ago, but maybe you're still looking for info.

What you;re looking for is something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4OYH5E?psc=1

I have never tried a monitor built into the rearview personally, so I cannot comment on how well it works. At first I was looking to go that route, but then I decided to just install a new stereo head unit with a video display and hooked it up via that.


Yes you can have wirless video feed, something like this is waht you're looking for:

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Wireless-Transmitter-Receiver-Vehicle/dp/B01I357VEQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492531823&sr=8-2&keywords=12v+wireless+video+transmitter+and+receiver

I had one of those and the reviews are mixed. Some people say the video is good some say not. When I first installed it the video was scratchy so I just routed a cable under my truck along existing cables and through the firewall into the vehicle. Works/looks fine. Video is much better than wireless IMO, maybe i had a bad wireless tranceiver.


Camera/monitor will most likely run off 12V. Camera I hooked up to the power of my reverse light and inside the vehicle yo ucan just hook up to 12V accessory either in the dash or via the ignition wiring.

I used this one from amazon: Enerzen Commercial Ozone Generator 6,000mg Industrial O3 Air Purifier Deodorizer Sterilizer (6,000mg - Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JAP7388/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mr.BDbYXY10SY

It still works and I have about 25 hours of use on It.

To be honest there are so many to choose from. It does sound like you did the best that can be done thus far. Good luck!

Yeah, it sounds like you have a fuel delivery issue. My initial thoughts are the simple things like chaning out the fuel filter and see if your fuel pressure changes if you remove the vaccum line from the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. If you don't have a fuel pressure tester, I run this one and it works. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5630-Fuel-Pressure-Test/dp/B000R5IASC/ref=lp_15707421_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1570831697&sr=1-6

As for the hose, if you can't get down under the truck while it's running to check if there's vacuum there just plug the hose with an appropriate sized bolt or something. Something with a shoulder so it won't get sucked into the hose if it actually pulls engine vacuum.

Good luck.

They make cab heaters. I have one like this in one of my classics.

I've never seen a head bolt heater that actually gets the engine warm enough to get the heater going more quickly when it's legitimately cold out. I prefer an engine preheater like this (installs between the rad hoses and circulates as it heats), or an auto start.

Earlier today I was listening to a radio show about home repairs etc. A caller had a question about an inherited house of a smoker. The two products recommended were

Milsek Furniture Polish and Cleaner with Lemon Oil, 12-Ounce, LM-12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8F1YWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nwfDDbS7BRB94

Which was more for wood.

The other product was

https://www.odorxit.com/aqm

Which the “AQM” product was highly recommended and the site says you can use it in a car.

If you try it let me know how it is after a week or so.

Rather than take the seat out, have you considered purchasing a borescope? Especially if you know where the sticker should be. They aren't much money and then you'll have a borescope for later.

Something like this...

https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Endoscope-Inspection-Megapixels-Smartphone/dp/B01MYTHWK4/

“Center link”, aha!

4 PC Kit Steering Parts F100 F250 73-79 RWD Center Link Tie Rod Ends Sleeve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079LZQYV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H0w0Db5G9QAVD

Might as well replace the whole kit while I’m futzing with the steering box and pitman arm.

After my f150 mishap I bought a 2007 NBS Silverado with the 5.3 and to counteract the oil consumption I bought the Range AFM disabler and its helped a lot

You need this: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-600-805-Transfer-Case-Motor/dp/B000C0Y9EQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1482933094&sr=1-1&keywords=Dorman+600-805+Transfer+Case+Motor

Its only $97.

Here's the links to the housings and led bulbs I used:

Housings:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01015AXQE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews

LED bulbs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FRC77GX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BY2CK32/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

then using bluetooth, connected it to my android phone and I run the app called "DashCommand" http://www.palmerperformance.com/products/dashcommand/

That basic app will give dashboard, gauges, performance, but you need the PIDs for the Ford F150 for the 98 year. That's another $10.

Set up the misfire PIDs and run the datagrid while you are driving the truck. It'll show which cylinders are misfiring and how often they are misfiring.

Total cost was about $30 for me and it has more than paid back that cost in the information it gives me.

I use this in my F-150 and I have no complaints!