Best products from r/Gameboy

Heh, I'll admit that I've been rude with such information and that was wrong of me.

I was wronged before, but that's no way to act towards other. I do sincerely apologize, I believe it was in regards to my paint techniques and sealants?

Let me share properly, with easy links! :D

I live by Krylon products, they're the best spray paints for using Posca Paint pens on. My most used Krylon products are:

-Krylon Chalky Finish

-Krylon Short Cuts these are a bit glossy so far, and haven't tested them with the paint pens yet. Will post once I do! Also do SUUUPER LIGHT COATS as it will bubble and look like crap, they aren't meant for plastic :D

-U-Pol Products 0796 Clear CLEAR#1 High Gloss Coat - 450ml for sealant You can apply a fresh coat after 1 hour, gives enough time for it to "cure" and allows you to see how much more you need! I do 3-4 coats for a super glossy finish! :D

-Posca paint pens for drawing me and my wife both live by these things, they're absolutely fabulous.

Again, I do sincerely apologize. We're all human behind these screen names and letters, surrounded by digital information and electricity. I'm no different, and prone to making mistakes.

Hope that helps make things a little better. Cheers man! Again, congrats on a gorgeous system.

To show my true honesty and being sorry, if you send me your system I'll backlight and bivert it - plus ship it back to you for free.

It's not all about the work and business, it's about making good friendships along the way. PM Me if you're interested bro.

Well to replace the battery you'll need to open the cart, carefully desolder the old battery, and solder in the new one. It's fairly straightforward and easy, but you can go look up a youtube video for a walkthrough. In theory you can tape in a new untabbed one in, but going with the original design/intention is preferable and won't come loose and lose your save if done properly. However, you'll need the following:

• special driver/bit to open the cartridge (can also use fine tipped pliers to grip the screw and put it in/take it out, but you may scratch up the top of the screw)
  
• replacement lithium coin cell battery with solder tabs (probably a CR2025)
  
• a soldering iron or station
  
• solder, probably 60/40 Sn-Pb as mentioned earlier
  
  optional:
  
• solder wick (copper braid) for removing old solder, it makes putting the new battery in a little easier if you can work with new solder and a cleaner point to solder to
  
  I got my batteries and screwdriver from a online store that sells gameboy stuff:
  https://www.mortoffgames.com/cr2025-coin-cell-battery-with-tabs-panasonic-
  https://www.mortoffgames.com/gameboy-color/repair-and-replacement-parts35/game-repair-parts39/38mm-security-screw-driver
  
  From Amazon:
  https://www.amazon.com/Steel-3-8mm-Screwdriver-Security-Nintendo/dp/B000F8GWH2/ (3.8mm security bit)
  https://www.amazon.com/Super-Nintendo-Genesis-Master-System-Advance/dp/B00ES2B0CI/ (CR2025 w/solder tabs)
  https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC
  https://www.amazon.com/WYCTIN-Solder-Electrical-Solderding-0-11lbs/dp/B071G1J3W6/
  ^ lots of options, this is close to what I use --- 60/40 Sn-Pb, rosin core, 0.6mm diameter -- it don't think it's that much solder for the price, but I probably paid at least twice that at least and I've done lots of stuff and I still have way more than I needed. You can probably use a smaller diameter for this specific job, but that size is easy to hold.
  
  It seems like a lot of money, but you got a pretty good deal on the unit and game. They can go for $20-30 and $12-18 respectively. Also, the screwdriver/bit and soldering iron are one-time investments in being able to do it again later and also do other soldering work.
  
  If you don't mind making separate purchases the other source I mentioned has way better battery prices and their screwdriver is a bit cheaper and has a handle, I have one myself and it works fine. In general though I recommend going for the best quality one just so you don't have cheap, crappy tools. Sometimes that means you pay a little one more, and sometimes pricing is about the same.
  
  
  

Some thoughts on the IPS:

• Install:
  
  • Toughest part is attaching the ribbon cable back to the AGS board. I found it was shorter than the stock ribbon cable.
    
  • Don't be scared to solder. Bought a $15 soldering iron off Amazon and practiced a bit on other stuff. Very easy to solder the wire to the board for brightness control, just need to be precise.
    
  • I bought my case from Retro Modding and chose to do the case modification myself with my dremel tool. Easy as well.
    
• IPS:
  
  • At first it was weird not having the pixelated look of the AGS-101 but, after seeing the two next to each other, I'm starting to love the pixel density of the IPS.
    
  • If you solder, you'll have 6 brightness options. Levels 1 and 3 are comparable to the AGS-101 and its two brightness options. This means the IPS is quite brighter at its highest setting, but also darker for sessions at night with no lights on. Great versatility.
    
  • I have experienced zero screen tearing as I received the new ribbon cable. That should not be a concern anymore.
    
    Overall, I think this really is the game changer everyone has been waiting for. I love my two AGS-101's but, with the prices rising and the availability of this kit, it's a no brainer. Again, I bought this cheap soldering iron and practiced a few times; that's really how easy the install is if you have steady hands. I cannot speak for this kit without the brightness options activated.
    
    Hope this helps!

If you plan on doing more hobby work that involves soldering, I would highly recommend getting a better iron, prefererably one with a variable temperature range. There are plenty of good options from Hako and Wells that don't break the bank and are much easier to use than the cheap irons.

I have this station

Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oeAYCbQNC90JB

And this pack of tips
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARYBXLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SfAYCbG6XDDXE


Voultar (a great modder to follow, check out his soldering videos for inspiration) posted a good video on a decent iron station he found

https://youtu.be/cGdHJ3BTh_c

Good solder goes a long way to helping make soldering a lot better.

And yes, the clip on loupe is amazing! It magnifies tiny smd stuff really well. I can't recommend it enough.

> The rechargable AAs will arguably be worse than regular AA Batteries. The McWill mod depends on a higher voltage. Regular AAs are 1.5V each while the eneloops are only 1.2.

That's actually not true. Alkaline batteries reach 1.2 volts when they're still halfway full. So, if a device doesn't work with 1.2 volt NiMH batteries, then it doesn't work with alkaline batteries either. It's simply poorly engineered.

There are 2 AA battery types you can use with poorly engineered devices that don't work well with alkaline or NiMH AA batteries. AA Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries are not rechargeable, but they're lightweight, and they last longer than any other battery on the market, by far, and they stay at around 1.8 volts:

• AmazonSmile: Energizer AA Lithium Batteries, World's Longest Lasting Double A Battery, Ultimate Lithium (12 Count): Health & Personal Care
  
  Another type are Tenavolts rechargeable lithium AA batteries that stay at exactly 1.5 volts through their entire discharge, thanks to DC-to-DC voltage conversion circuitry:
  
  
• AmazonSmile: TENAVOLTS Rechargeable AA Battery Charger with 4 Counts Lithium 2775 mWh AA Rechargeable Batteries: Home Audio & Theater
  
  They won't last as long as Eneloop batteries, but they have 1000 charge cycle specification, which is the best I have seen so far, which beats all other NiMH cells except Eneloop. They also have slightly higher capacity than Eneloop, which you can read about in my comments here:
  
  
• Review & Teardown: Tenavolts AA Size 1.5V Li-ion battery : r/AAMasterRace
  
  Any of these choices are better than a non-AA battery pack, although you mentioned it uses 14500, which is an AA-compatible battery, so it's not too bad. AA batteries are still better, just because they're easier to replace.

Make sure you're not suffering from a combo-problem:

.

I clean switches by doing a combination of sandpaper and electronics spray cleaner. I found the WD-40 electronics cleaner spray to be hands-down better than CRC Quick Cleaner spray. But neither one would remove corrosion from inside the switch itself. The sandpaper (facing upwards) did remove both the green battery leakage crap and the brownish corrosion from inside the switch. I slid the sandpaper in and then sprayed the electronics contact spray on. Be careful not to leave any paper shards get loose from the sandpaper itself. Just move it straight back and forth without angling. Keeping it at a simple 90° angle from the face of the power switch itself will save it from tearing off at the edges.

.

Check and clean the battery contacts in the battery compartment. Even after cleaning the switch a bunch, the on/off flickering continued. It was a crudded battery contact that was making it happen.

.

The GBA unit I was working on looked brand new on the outside. The inside had battery leakage on both sides of the battery compartment. Funny how the battery compartment itself was sparkling clean. There's not much you can do when buying electronic units online, especially when a previous owner somewhere in its lifespan wanted to move the unit down the line from themselves. But after many hours of steady work, the light is solid as a rock and doesn't flicker one iota when touching any part of the power switch.

.


edit: also want to mention that the unit I was talking about above did not have any power or lights at all when I first received it. It took a long time to get it to start flickering a small amount of red light. Then the green light started to flicker at times, too, when moving the switch back and forth rapidly. I had to repeatedly disassemble, clean, partially reassemble, put in batteries and flick the switch a bunch.... just to try and get a sign of life out of the thing. Up until yesterday morning, I would've sworn on a stack of H.P. Lovecraft novels that the motherboard was blown. But I had some time last night and decided to play around with different cleaning methods. So glad that I did.

Here is a quick instruction he punched out for me

1. Order original game boy in good condition: re-shells are usually of lower quality
   
2. Take apart, clean with soap and water and let soak for a bit
   
3. Use extra fine wet-or-dry sandpaper, like maybe 1000 grit and go over all the shell in all the nooks and everything
   
4. Wash it again to get all the particles off
   
5. tape each part of the shell to cans of food, so you can set it down and also hold it up in certain ways while painting
   
6. Paint each part of the shell with 3-5 light coats of Rustoleum Universal Metallic Satin Bronze spray paint, let dry for 30-40 minutes in between each coat. Let dry for 24 hours.
   https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-314560-Universal-Surface-Metallic/dp/B000LEL1JY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1544044278&sr=8-1&keywords=rustoleum+universal+satin+bronze
   
7. Print out decals on "water slide decal paper", basic stuff is perfect.
   
8. Apply decals to shell. To do this, cut out each decal and put it in a little bit of water, then slide off the top part and lay it on the shell. Don't worry about getting the shell a little wet. Slide around until perfectly in place, then use fingers to press down and get bubbles out. You can re-wet and move it around easy if you screw it up. Let dry for a few hours
   
9. Coat the shell in Rustoleum Clear Lacquer spray paint, follow instructions on label and do 3-5 light coats from all different directions
   https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-11-oz-Gloss-Clear-Lacquer-Spray-Paint-1906830/100194482
   
10. Install the backlight using the tutorials on YouTube

The main worry with rubbing alcohol would be water content. I would not try to work 70% alcohol into the switch. Higher alcohol content is more likely to dry out perfectly in a tight space like that.

Electrical contact cleaner is nice because the pressurized bottle will be easier to spray into the switch than alcohol. You can try alcohol, but definitely be sure to use some compressed air and be confident that you have completely dried out everything before applying power.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BXOGNI/ is the electronics cleaner I personally like using.

Well, I really want to say that it's not worth it if you don't have a soldering iron, but having an iron opens you up to modding. I personally would buy this iron to start Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_a-b5wbP6YPKQS

It's a decent iron and then you can buy a DMG and put in a bivert mod! Also, don't forget to tin your tip or else it slowly corrodes when the iron is hot. These are the starter irons in the electronics shop at my school, a technical high shool. And if you get bored you can always poke holes in the power supply with the hot iron!/s If you have a lot of money then buy the iron I have, a Weller WES51. Soldering irons can also fix jewelry and other metal, so it's not a one time use purchase. And if you get burnt you don't even feel it, I don't think I have nerves in my right index finger anymore!

Replacing the batteries is very easy. They go for $7 for 10 on eBay just search Gameboy save battery. Only Pokemon RSE need them for GBA games because of their clocks. They use CR1616 batteries. No other GBA games need batteries AFAIK. Most original or color game needs them for saves, however. They use CR2032 batteries. It's easy, just make sure that the positive and negative are correct. Positive side is shiny with writing on the battery and the negative is textured. Earlier GB games such as Kirby's dreamland, Tetris, Pinball, etc require no save battery, as they didn't save!

99% sure those are authentic. Judging by the wear on the labels, the color of the silver's plastic, the security screw type and placement are correct, and the quality of plastic looks good.

This should help you see it. A comparison of reals vs fakes for both pokemon gold and silver.

Front sides.
Back sides.

If you want to check games you buy, and if only just for the fun of opening up Nintendo products, these tools are a pretty good investment. You'll notice my fake cartridges had Y screws where as the real ones have 3.8 mm security screws. You can pick up Y1/Y0/Y00 tri wing screwdriver set at lowes/walmarts, but you probably won't be able to find the security bits. You'll notice in one of my previous comments, fakes always have black globs inside of them, typically much less pcb, and they have different button cell containers to name a few. Hope that helps!

edit: also wanted to add that you got a steal on those. Nice find :)

It's a fairly simple process. Just open the game, desolder the old battery, solder the new one, and close the game.

Make sure the new battery is the same type as the old one; a CR2032 probably won't fit in a game that uses a CR1616. Make sure the batteries you order have tabs. It's generally not a good idea to solder directly to batteries, so the tabs make it much easier to mount. As for the batteries themselves, just find an eBay seller with good feedback and you should be fine.

Take your time and be careful, and you should be able to do it just fine. If you're worried you'll mess it up, watch some soldering how-to videos and practice on some old junk board before you move on to a Gameboy game. If you don't already have a soldering iron, the Weller WLC100 is a great, inexpensive, variable-temperature soldering iron that is frequently recommended here. I have it and it works perfectly. 60/40 rosin-core leaded solder should be fine for this; it's what I've used for my cart battery replacements and I've had no issues with it.

Pick up a sweet case, find a copy of Warioland 4 OR Car Battler Joe, crack open a beer and turn the lights off. Rock out that sweet Game Boy goodness!

If you want a wide assortment of games, pick up either a EZ Flash Omega or an Everdrive and play anything you want from a micro sd.

If/When you're feeling squirrelly about the screen... you can install a better one from here.

I don't mean to divert attention/potential buyers away from BennVenn and what he does for this community, but alternatively to the Mega Memory Card (which btw, sometimes saves are randomly deleted entirely), you can use a Monster Brain for pretty much the same effect. Backs up game saves permanently but it can also edit/hack Pokemon games right on the thing itself, and has the ability to colorize older Gameboy games to your liking. Plus, it's much cheaper than any price I've found a Mega Memory Card for.

Again, I don't mean to insult BennVenn nor hurt his business, just providing another product that does essentially the same effect as a Mega Memory Card.

Hello again! Here was my shopping list (I am sure that there are better!) and I think that this was everything that I had in front of me when working:

For the Gameboy:

- screen and glass (and this came with screwdrivers but I bought others because it doesn't say that it does), https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Levels-High-Light-V2-IPS-Backlight-LCD-Screen-Kit-For-Game-Boy-Advance-GBA/312745721491?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[one regret = I should have bought a funny playing screen to support the person that came up with this mod rather than from China directly]

- screwdrivers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KFJK7MQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- black silicone buttons (haven't arrived yet so I cleaned my original ones with a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol for now), https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Game-Boy-GBA-Advance-Button-Silicone-Rubber-D-Pad-Conductive-AB-Select-Start/312608709452?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=611338502576&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

- black button set, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Button-set-for-Game-Boy-Advance-Nintendo-GBA-custom-mod-AGB-001-Black-ZedLabz/371907958966?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


From this company I bought the following (but their website is down for maintenance now): www.deadpanrobot.co.uk/

- case that was pre-cut for a new IPS display (it is central in the glass screen now): Mandarin Shell For Nintendo Game Boy Advance

- 3D printed mount (useful but the screen came with two bits of plastic that would have done the job (see the video that I linked 'person that filmed the whole process')

- Model Sticker For Nintendo Game Boy Advance (just so it doesn't look empty on the back)

​

For soldering:

- solder, https://www.amazon.com/EL60-40-25-Electronic-Solder-Resin/dp/B0001P171K

- wires, https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F8PO8OA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cleaning connections:

- Isopropyl alcohol

- Cotton wool buds (Q-tips?)

PMC05228 - Thermal Calculator Paper Rolls https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DBMGL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_oM8KwbX2D0WNG

This is what I recently bought for mine. The rolls are shorter than the official stuff and don't have the adhesive backing but the width is perfect and works great in the GB printer

I haven't tested this one myself but it seems like this is some good bang for your buck:

https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M

I bought the soldering iron and the replacable tips on ebay, but they're coming from China so it'll be a while before I can vouch for them hope this helps a but.

I'd recommend the GPA SP. Try to get the backlit 101 model, but if the price is a limitation, the 001 frontlit model isn't too bad. As others have said, the SP will give you access to way more games, and having a lit screen is nearly a necessity for me nowadays. As for the form factor, you can always get a grip for it that helps improve the ergonomics.
Here's the one I have, and I really like it (you can probably get it cheaper on eBay): https://www.amazon.com/Gameboy-Advance-Handy-Dual-Grip-Easier/dp/B002R9OXS2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498231466&sr=8-1&keywords=gba+sp+grip

If you plan on doing a lot of modding and soldering, don't go cheap. I recommend a Weller (I use a Weller WES51 for 90% of what I do. http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU). They are built very well, and I honestly can't think of anyone with any experience with soldering electronics that would tell you otherwise. I have access to a full rework station from Pace that retails for around $14,000 and I generally prefer the Weller. Hakko is another good brand and I would recommend them as well.

Eneloop is my favorite.

The standard version is cheap and performs very well (2000mah) and widely available at most stores

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17MCA4BA-Individual-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSMJU


The XX or pro version is expensive and only last 500 charges but hold 25% more power (2500mah) which will mean an additional couple of hours

https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-K-KJ17KHCA4A-Individual-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00JHKSL1O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465615985&sr=8-3&keywords=eneloop+xx

I prefer the pro version if you can get it cheap since 500 charge cycles will last you atleast 2 years of use on a portable like the gameboy. Found them on sale at my local camera store for $20 during the holidays

while I use the regular version on devices that gets charged daily like my gaming mouse

The R4i card is for playing DS games only, the EZ Flash Omega is for the GBA. Here is the cheapest price.

The Digi Retroboy will come out a little cheaper in that case because it comes with it's own card. However that card can only be used with the Retroboy and not your old SP like the Omega can.

Also recently I found this Digi Retroboy under a different name on Japanese Amazon on same for cheap and created and account and bought one. I'll see if it is the real deal in a couple of weeks. I didn't mention it earlier in case it's a knockoff or something.

You could always go third-party, just make sure you check reviews to make sure whatever battery you get isn't going to blow up or just work like ass.

Always gotta rely on the peeps that purchased before you, lol. They're good people!

edit: This one on amazon seems to have quite the reputation!

The Pelican Leather Glove for the GBA SP. I love mine and protects the outside well. It is a bit hard to get on at first as it is the exact dimensions of the SP.

They used to be $5 plus shipping on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Pelican-Accessories-Leather-Glove-Game-Boy/dp/B0001XP25E/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1421604645&sr=8-9&keywords=pelican+leather+glove

I'd look around to see if one pops up somewhere.

*Edit: Found some on ebay! $4.99 plus shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pelican-SP-Glove-Gameboy-Advance-Leather-GBA-/321639225749?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae3311995

Thanks for the help! Other than my 3DS, I've never heard any clicks coming from any of my systems, aside from the DS I mentioned in my post. So I just wanted to be sure!

Otherwise, do you have any recommended brands for a battery? From what I'm seeing on Amazon, some have mixed reviews, and others have generally positive reviews, such as this one. I don't seem to have the right size screwdriver to check the battery, and something like this comes with one, but I worry about getting a bad battery. From some reddit posts I found, users were saying DS batteries could also be used, but I don't want to damage the system at all somehow.

Thanks again for your help!

From Amazon (US)- Drive Logic DL-64-BK Portable EVA Hard Drive Carrying Case Pouch, Black

The case is a perfect fit for the DMG - and it will fit headphones inside, and an extra game on the outside, or a link cable.

If this is really just a matter of handling the system, there are clip on grips that greatly improve the ergonomics for us big handed folk.
I think this is the one I have: Gameboy Advance Sp Handy Dual Grip for Easier Play https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002R9OXS2

Battery could still be good - and if it is, he can back up his original save with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mega-Memory-Card/dp/B00002R108

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_byt8AbEWCG7MM

I bought this one about a year and half ago and it's been great to me. Just make sure you get a fine point tip for it.

Yeah, a scution cup is very safe and wont destroy the case.Yes the most screens come with adhesive tape. You can remove the old adhesive with a flat object. I bought a kit on amazon with all the tools to mod a GBA and other Nintendo consoles:

https://www.amazon.com/Durable-Gamebit-Security-Screwdriver-Nintendo/dp/B01KSOWL3Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536871116&sr=8-3&keywords=nintendo+gamebit+screwdriver&dpID=41CMng1-k3L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

It really depends on the battery you replace it with.

I think the standard cr2016/cr1620's should give you around 10 years, the larger cr 2032's will give you like 15 or so.

These are really rough estimates, I don't remember the source, they may be a bit off.

But no matter the size, as long as you use a good quality replacement they should last you quite some time, IF you want non-battery-backed backups to keep the pokemon longer, just pick up this

You can make multiple backups of your save file on non-volatile memory, and it's only around $10-$15

The cheapest option, without actually backing up, would probably be a Monster Brain ($13 on Amazon). You can use it to hold your save, change the battery, and then immediately restore the save - or do the even cheaper method of replacing it while the game is on. After that, I'd recommend BennVenn's Joey.

I made a guide with all sorts of devices/methods with links and videos included right here, but the cheapest options were already mentioned.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC

This is the cheapest one I can recommend, otherwise any hakko is good

Yup! This is what you're looking for, but don't pay that much for one. Check eBay and see if you can get a better price.

http://www.amazon.com/Mega-Memory-Card-Game-Boy-Color/dp/B00002R108/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393822299&sr=8-1&keywords=gameboy+mega+memory+card

This toolkit would have everything you would ever need...including triwing and Gamebit screw driver bits.


Thisa popular soldering iron. I use it myself and it hasn’t let me down. Just get some wire, flux, and solder and you’re set.

Edit: fixed the link lol

Gameboy Advance Sp Handy Dual Grip for Easier Play https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002R9OXS2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ya.Wzb47NVWAS

This is the one I use. Works perfectly (no sticker though)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DBMGL/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this one and I love it. It has temperature control in the form of a dial (1-5, not degrees) and the iron itself plugs into the base, so if it breaks or something, it is replaceable.

I got this on amazon and it has been great
Game Boy Advance SP Replacement Battery Pack for GBA SP (packaging may vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QJ1NS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uKCFDbAACRMVE

The 2550 mAh ones are the "pro", and have higher capacity but apparently fewer charge cycles. Up to you.

These are the ones I got and they've been good for me. I use them in my IPS GBA and my Wavebird.

I got this--https://www.amazon.com/PMC05228-Thermal-Calculator-Paper-Rolls/dp/B0000DBMGL. I just put it in and works perfect.

I bought this one on amazon. It had a lot of reviews from gameboy collectors trying to find paper for their printers too, haha.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000DBMGL?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

My goodness, I apologise everyone for the spam. I made my post and it didn't show up in my history and I couldn't find it on the subreddit so I figured it didn't post, it seems like they all had gotten delayed or something. Regardless here is the link!

Drive Logic DL-64-BK Portable EVA Hard Drive Carrying Case Pouch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VVH8Y6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

They sell things like this: Memory Card. Also BennVenns Joey Bags.

Something like this or a retron would work. https://www.amazon.com/Mega-Memory-Card/dp/B00002R108

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o2QwzbGGCK046

Also had to get a fine tip from HHL

I just got mine yesterday... $10 aint bad

Monster Brain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000056HGE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_X308wbHV5BG9A

I got this kit from Amazon for less than $18 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pB3BzbBXT1D6K

I personally use these. Keep an eye out for stock: PMC05228 - Thermal Calculator Paper Rolls https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DBMGL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o71GAbHWX35JY

Be careful of the official Nintendo printer paper. These have already expired.

I recently ordered this and it works:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QJ1NS8/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_apa_i_Taj7CbX86VVFM

check this out http://www.amazon.com/MEGA-MEMORY-CARD-Game-Boy-Color/dp/B00002R108

review http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKJsnpqzdE4

or you can built your own reader/writer :D http://www.reinerziegler.de/readplus.htm#Home%20made%20programming%20systems

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KFJK7MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6Ys8CbJZJQEN8