(Part 2) Best products from r/GoRVing

First of, excellent choice of RV and truck.

I love my Andersen Magnetic Jack Blocks. You have the 6 point auto-leveling system from Lippert (Ground Control 3.0 I reckon) so you just attach these jack blocks to the round feet magnetically so you never have to 'center' the blocks when leveling.

LevelMate Pro is another item I have that I love. You can check if your level, side to side before even detaching. It's a must have as I shave a good 5-10 mins each time I setup and I'm always 100% perfectly level.

Purchase a Kingpin Lock for when your RV isn't hooked up to the truck so no one can steal it.

Purchase a regular lock to replace the lock pin on your 5th wheel hitch to prevent people from unhooking your RV when you're stopped. Yes, it's happened.

Consider getting the Furrion observation camera. Your RV is already pre-wired for it so it's crazy easy to install.

Which surge protector did you get? Progressive Industries makes really good units and they're quite popular.

Enjoy!

If you intend to run everything (AC, microwave, etc), you'll need a proper 30 amp RV extension cord. The regular cord / adapter will work to get the basics running, but be careful with the AC and other high draw items to ensure you don't overload / overheat it. One like this should work (but compare the ends to ensure that they match your outlet / cord): https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Extension-PowerGrip-Convenient-Carrying/dp/B004809YBE

 

If you're going to be stationary for the winter, and need that much hose, building a heated hose is your best bet. Search "diy rv heated hose" on Google, and you'll find lots of info on them (they're basically heat tape and pipe insulation).

 

The blower motor on the AC sounds exactly like the symptoms ours had just before the motor seized completely (a few days of screeching starts, and a few hand spins, then it seized completely). You'll have to double check the model that you have, but for our Coleman Mach I was able to order a new motor from Amazon for <$120, and change it myself. If I remember correctly, it was a bit of a pain to get it all apart, but it was just nuts, bolts, and screws, with a single electrical connection (be sure to turn the breaker off on to the AC unit first, and if you don't feel comfortable with electric or going on the roof, call a mobile RV tech, or take it somewhere).

 

Most propane places will sell tanks, as will BBQ / Fireplace places, RV dealers, and occasionally Costco. As someone else pointed out, Costco is about the cheapest for propane if you have one locally (and they have propane, not all of them do). If you are going to be stationary you might also check with a propane place about having a larger tank placed near the RV and connected, as it will save you some serious money / time dealing with refills over the winter. You can also check on local Buy / Sell groups or craigslist, but keep in mind that portable bottles have a date stamp and need to be re-certified every 5 years starting 12 years from their manufacture date (stamped on the side of the ring).

 

For the short queen mattress, we replaced ours with a memory foam one from Amazon. There are several manufacturers there that make them.

If you want a single battery, get a 100ah lithium iron phosphate... its gonna cost you though...

AGM batteries are only useful for 50% of their advertised AH rating vs like 80%+ for Lifepo, also lifepo are lighter weight, and have more recharge cycles.

I run 2 of these right now to get 100 useful AH, and I am hopeful that in ~3 years when its time to get new batteries the cost of LifePo will have come down b/c they really are vastly superior in every way.

There is a back-flushing attachment you can put on your drain pipe (where you would ordinarily attach your sewer hose). You attach the device to the sewer outlet, then attach your sewer hose. It has a place to attach a garden hose (not your white fresh-water hose, obviously). It's constructed with a valve on either end.

Something like this (but lots of companies make them):
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Holding-Rinser-Thoroughly-39062/dp/B000BUQOAE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1521057870&sr=8-4&keywords=rv+black+tank+flush

You basically close the valve that leads to the sewer and open the valve that leads back to your black tank. Close the gates on all your gray tanks!! Then you open the gate to the black tank and turn on the water (connected to the garden hose). Let the black tank fill to nearly full, turn off the water, then open the valve leading to the sewer.

The device is clear so you can see all the muck flowing through. Just repeat this process until the outflow is mostly clear.

I also noticed that your rear stabilsers do not appear to have sand pads. These help distribute the load better and you don't sink. I would also recommend one for your hitch. Also, in of itself that wood blocking is going to be rocky.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Stabilizing-Base-Pads-Cross-Frame/dp/B0024E6Z9U/

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-1400700340-Footplate-Pin/dp/B005DLLVMW/


But as another stated, I also use the BAL X chocks and really like them. Although.... a little too much side to side motion in the ocean can cause them to work themselves out. There is a fine line between too tight and not tight enough.

https://www.amazon.com/X-Chock-Wheel-Stabilizer-Handle-28012/dp/B002XLHUQG/

The 6v golf cart batteries from Costco or Sams Club are what people usually recommend. I have them and they work well.

Also, get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS Single best upgrade I've done to my trailer.

DIY`ed my own this winter, have not really given it a full test yet. At home seems to work.

I used a Netgear Extender, the ac750: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R92CL5E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Took it apart, pretty easy, replaced the antenna connector with these pig tails: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GMBUS8O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Used these cables to extend the antennas to my fridge vent, where they are mounted to the big plastic frigde vent cover.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085X3PRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Should work, but like i said, only tested at home.

They are great! I see you sell them on amazon too? https://www.amazon.com/Asamour-Camping-Pillowcase-Mountain-Decorative/dp/B07MBT2HTH/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=lets+go+camping+pillow&qid=1573141739&s=home-garden&sr=1-2

If it's not marked non-potable and doesn't have signs saying not to do that (some places have limited water), then yes. Just remember that other people may have done unsanitary things to the spigot, and recently I heard about a guy that found worms in one. I always run it first, look into it, then connect. A fill tube with a screen is a good idea also. I use this, and added a screen to it:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006IX850

​

A water bandit will help you connect to arbitrary water sources that don't have a normal screw connection, such as faucets at fish cleaning stations:

​

https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-Connects-Standard-Various-Sources/dp/B000EDOSKG

The two jacks in the rear are like this.

The bases for those jacks are like this.

The jack in the front is like [this] (http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/m6gEYG4Pn04KSHCR1cztNNA.jpg)

I wouldn't bother with the inverter/charger, just get a good quality PSW inverter. These are very good.

https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energy-Inverter-Phoenix-1200W/dp/B07L9JG9V7

I have this inexpensive battery monitor. It's pretty accurate and is easy to install:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D31K454/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have an RV fridge, keeping that level is probably one of the important factors (see http://www.doityourselfrv.com/know-rig-level-enough-rv-refrigerator-work-properly/), and you may want to place a bullseye level there to make sure that is level and not just on the floor.

Something like: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-25573-Bullseye-Level/dp/B000EDSSDY

For the rinse, there's some water-saver nozzles you can add to the kitchen sink that'll help a lot. I got the "Altered:Nozzle" for the bathroom but should probably get something equivalent for the kitchen. There's some much cheaper nozzles that are probably almost as good, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OCHGJ4/

Downside to minimal water use, though, is the crud in your grey tank is a lot less diluted. Could get some build-up over the long term.

You can get directional antennae if its a clear way, but the cheapest, easiest and most reliable source is

​

https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-4445608-Ethernet-Network-Patch/dp/B00BNL001Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=36LE32DKBHZVT&keywords=300+ft+ethernet+cable&qid=1555424765&s=gateway&sprefix=300+ft+either%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-3

Do you have hookups on the lot? Electricity, water, and sewer? I'd definitely recommend thoroughly cleaning it and then going over the seams with EternaBond.

Do you see water or just #2 looking down the toilet hole?

Are you sure the dump valve is actually opening?

Do you have a black tank flush feature?

You might want to try something like this to fill the black tank from the outside to see if it loosens anything:
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-39062-Flush-Holding-Rinser/dp/B000BUQOAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396915174&sr=8-1&keywords=tank+flush

Could also try to blast it out from the top:
http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A01-0184VP-Master-Blaster-Tank/dp/B000BGHYDO/ref=pd_sim_auto_33?ie=UTF8&refRID=0VH1YZD0GHN2QGKEEADF

Okay so question because I’m currently hooked up at a family members house with our first rig. In her backyard (where were parked) she has a septic system with two outlets (both on separate breakers, both 20AMP). One of the outlets is for the alarm and other for the pump. So I have our rig plugged into the alarm (20AMP) breaker. I run a 50ft Camco 30AMP extension cord from there (connected to the outlet using a 30AMP to 15amp small adapter, like no cord just a small 2” or so box) to the extension cord coming from the TT. Is this unsafe? If so what should I do to remedy it? I can’t get an 30AMP outlet installed here. And we won’t be staying long term, but we have to run the AC (on low) while were gone for the pets. We haven’t had an issue, just when we need to use something power heavy well turn something off in exchange. Like if we need the water heater, turn off the AC, need to microwave then turn off the water heater, etc. been here for about a month now and have only popped the breaker twice (both instances from leaving the AC while taking a shower and the water heater kicked on).

Edit:Links and formatting (took me a minute lol)

For reference I looked up that tape. Wow, it is expensive. I think I'll stick to my silicone caulk for now. http://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-RSW-4-50-White-Roof-Seal/dp/B002RSIK4G

Yep! It worked flawlessly over the weekend: LevelMatePro

Used in tandem with these leveling blocks (I think the most common supplier is Anderson) meant I could watch the trailer become level as the wheels rolled over the blocks.

I also got to try my TPMS setup to all 8 wheels, tow vehicle and trailer. Nice peace of mind knowing temp and pressure (my truck has it but I wanted to see data all from the same system).

When I had the one on my first 5th wheel apart, I wrapped it with EternaBond tape then put the hose clamp over that. Not cheap, but you should have a roll of it in the camper anyway. Great if you have to make an emergency roof repair.

If it were me, and I'd been having these issues, I'd replace both batteries just in case. They aren't expensive enough for it to be worth the risk in my opinion. Can't speak to your size constraints, but AGMs are nice because you don't need to top them off or worry as much about fumes. I got these ones for under $200 apiece and they've worked well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Look at this one also. Voltmeter.

Do not use silicone. You will regret it later when it is time to re-seal your roof.

You will need to get on the roof and reseal the skylight, and, if it were my roof, I would go ahead and do the whole thing if it's needed. You can find plenty of videos on Youtube on how to do this.

Lap sealant can be bought on Amazon (Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant 4-pack), and I would recommend two other items as well; Butyl Tape for laying down as an extra barrier under the roof equipment, and a roll of Eternabond for emergency repair.