Best products from r/Greenhouses

Full Cost break down and steps taken

Supplies (Total = $4153)

• Greenhouse Megastore (Total = $2345)
  
  • 8mm Triple Wall Polycarbonate panels ($120 crating charge)
    
    • 6’x8’ = $99 (per panel) x Qty 7 = $693
      
    • 6’x11’ = $136 (per panel) x Qty 5 = $680
      
  • 1 piece H profile 8mm
    
    • 8’ long = $15 (per profile) x Qty 5 = $78
      
    • 6’ long = $8 (per profile) x Qty 5 = $65
      
  • Anti-Dust bottom tape 1 roll = $30
    
  • Top sealing aluminum tape 1 roll = $17
    
  • 8/10mm “F” Gable end profile 6’ = $16 x Qty 2 = $32
    
  • 8/10mm “R” angle profile 8’ = $22 x Qty 4 = $90
    
  • Shipping = $540
    
    
• Home Depot (Total = $1068)
  
  • Plywood Siding 4’x8’ = $35 x Qty 6 = $210
    
  • Framing lumber
    
    • 2”x4”x8’ = $4 x Qty 48 = $176
      
    • 2”x4”x12’ = $8 x Qty 18 = $144
      
    • 4”x4”x8’ = $13 x Qty 4 = $52
      
    • 1”x2”x8’ = $1.50 x Qty 8 = $12
      
    • Pressure Treated
      
      • 2”x4”x8’ = $5 x Qty 2 = $10
        
      • 2”x4”x10’ = $6 x Qty 4 = $24
        
      • 2”x6”x8’ = $7 x Qty 2 = $14
        
  • Cedar
    
    • Fence pickets 5/8”x5½ ”x6’ = $2.85 x Qty 52 = $150
      
    • Square end baluster 2”x2”x3’ (6 pack) = $22 x Qty 3 = $66
      
  • Storm door = $90
    
  • Fasteners and other odds/ends = $120
    
    
• Amazon (Total = $450)
  
  • Double sided glazing tape 1/16” x 3/8” x 150’ = $17 x Qty 2 = $34 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SZ3RES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • Burlap 3’x150’ = $46 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HQOGLQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • 40% Shade cloth (white) = $44 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079PSQQ7P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • 18” Exhaust Fan = $143 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G8I7HG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • Adjustable Thermostat = $18 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TYK4A6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • Gable shutter = $42 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E6DMEK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
  • Automatic Vent openers = $30 x Qty 4 = $120 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071VYQ91P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
    
    
• Soil (Total = $290)
  
  • Compost 2 cuyd (picked up) = $40
    
  • Topsoil 2 cuyd (delivered) = $100
    
  • Peat Moss 3 cu-ft (Lowes) = $10 x Qty 15 = $150
    
    
    Planning steps
    
    
    
• We started with a known foot print and therefore decided to find what we thought would best fit within it.
  
• Plan planter box layout; make sure you have enough room to walk around and squat/bend/kneel down.
  
• Plan for excess space to have potting/seed starting bench and tool/supply storage.
  
• Figure out how many doors you want to have, maybe you want to have a door at each end. Factor if you want to get larger items inside like a wheel barrow to see if the door is wide enough.
  
• Look up and calculate ventilation requirements passive or active will result in different needs.
  
  
  Construction steps
  
  
  
• Calculate all dimensions and cuts needed to make before taking out tools.
  
  • Use Roof calculators listed below in Knowledge section for the more complicated dimensions like rise/run and bird mouth cut.
    
    • In our case the front wall is ~ 8’ the back wall is ~ 6’ and we chose to rest the rafter on top of the back wall and butt it into the front wall. This gave us a pitch of 2 in 12 or 10 degrees. This is right on the border of being able to self-shed snow but we figured since we can easily brush it off this low angle would be fine.
      
• Cut framing for front wall.
  
• Frame front wall on ground at 3’ OC (on center).
  
  • Stand front wall up and prop with extra 2x4.
    
• Add dwangs/sills between studs for additional support of panel and/or window locations.
  
• Cut framing for back wall.
  
• Frame back wall on ground 2’ OC.
  
• Cut plywood siding and attach to wall.
  
  • We needed to do this because of the short concrete wall at the back of the patio wouldn’t allow access to attach the siding.
    
  • Stand back wall up and prop with extra 2x4.
    
• Put layout marks on top of both walls for rafters 3’ OC.
  
• Check measurements for rafters and cut to correct angle, length, and bird mouth.
  
  • We choose to have the rafter terminate at the vertical edge of the double top plate (on the front wall) instead of resting on top of it. This way we could utilize the “R” angle profile to seal the roof panels to the wall panels.
    
    • Joist hangers could be used here to increase strength and we may add them going forward.
      
• Add dwangs between rafters to keep distance consistent, resist twisting, and additional support for panels.
  
• Frame side walls using same angle (10 degrees) created to make the roof.
  
  • Leave openings for Door (32”x80”), Exhaust fan (18.5”x18.5”), and gable vent (16”x16”).
    
• Prep H profiles by running glassing tape on back side to adhere to studs.
  
  • This will reduce the need for excess screws. I borrowed this idea from the Growing North blog listed below in the Knowledge section.
    
• Tape top (Aluminum) and bottom (Anti-Dust) of 6x8 a panel.
  
• Run glassing tape on perimeter of 6x8 panel to create a better seal and reduce need for fasteners.
  
• Slide H profile on to first 6x8 panel and install both on wall fasten using neoprene washer fasteners (DON’T CRUSH PANEL).
  
• Continue down the wall till complete.
  
• Measure and cut roof panels to size.
  
• Tape same as before with aluminum, anti-dust, and glassing.
  
• Install Roof panels in similar fashion to wall panels.
  
• Install “R” angle profile as you go along we found it best to slide it on to both panels from the side.
  
• Cut, Tape, and Install side wall panels/siding in same fashion as above.
  
• Install “F” Gable end to seal side wall to roof slide like on from side like “R” angle profile.
  
• Install storm door according to instructions.
  
• Build planter boxes according to layout.
  
  • Line bottom of planters with burlap and staple in place.
    
• Fill with soil
  
  
  Future plans
  
  
  
• Cut window openings and install automatic openers.
  
• Bring water and electric into greenhouse.
  
  • Wire up exhaust fan and several outlets for:
    
    • Grow lights
      
    • Circulation fans
      
  • Design/Install irrigation system.
    
• Potting/seed starting table.
  
• Tool storage.
  
• Vertical growing.
  
• Solar lights.
  
  
  Knowledge resources
  
  
  
• Roof calculators
  
  • https://www.blocklayer.com/roof/raftereng.aspx
    
  • https://www.mycarpentry.com/roof-pitch-calculator.html
    
• Growing North
  
  • http://growingnorth.ca/2014/12/greenhouse-building-part-3-installing-triple-wall-polycarbonate-plus-tips/

Is this the one you mean?

https://www.amazon.com.au/OMAS-Golf-Voltage-Reducer-Converter/dp/B01M635QFW/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=golf+cart+voltage+converter+36v+12v&qid=1567634473&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Re: extractor fan, that was exactly what I was thinking. Nice low maintenance thing, no switches or batteries - nice and easy.

Fantastic reply, I'll give the pump and timer a look - thanks a heap!

EDIT: Is there an alternative to double wall poly? It's so very expensive! Also, will the poly I provided in the link work? Or will clear poly heat the greenhouse up too much? I've been told that diffused light is better than using a clear material. Hope that makes sense.

What scares you the price or the install?
I didn't want to but did end up buying it. Shans on Amazon was th best price I found and free delivery. https://www.amazon.com/SHANS-Spring-Wire-Lock-Channel/dp/B07JCZXBJ4?th=1&psc=1

Bought 40 channels and wire for like $240. Haven't I stalled yet buy quality looks good.

You can look in to snap clamps as an alternative. I bought a few, and after buying everything I've seen at least one comment claiming using all snap clamps is better than wiggle wire, and that you can pull the plastic tight through it .. I haven't seen it myself though.

Depends on how much you want to spend but a simple and easy route is a electric heater with a fan hooked to a thermostats like this

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Automatic-Programmable-Thermostat-Compatible/dp/B000E7NYY8

Check all the panels to see how well they are sealed and consider heat mates for under the pots to keep the roots from getting to cold. You can also put down normal mats to insulate the cold from the brick floor.

https://www.amazon.com/Seedling-Hydroponic-Waterproof-Germination-Propagation/dp/B073RC58JN/ref=asc_df_B073RC58JN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216531753338&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5024264790334445552&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014966&hvtargid=pla-350506522936&psc=1

You might want to add a small second fan just to make sure you have a good circulation of air moving and don’t get any cold or hot spots.

Hi, your gh is just like one of my first. Here is what worked for me and is still working but slightly modified with my 16 foot gh.

Considering where you are, passive solar heating is a must for pots that will be on the ground. Easy to make .. just take 2 ltr bottles, paint matte black and fill with water. Lay them on their sides and put pots on top of them.

Next get a forced fan milkhouse heater, portable thermostat and either a small box fan or oscillating fan. Here is a link for the thermostat:

Portable Thermostat

Make sure you put the thermostat on the ground. I set mine to start the heater when the temperature got below 45°. The fan will circulate the air - keep the fan on 24-7.

Here is another link to the set up and also how I used the bottles for passive solar heating:

http://www.nerii.org/ghheat.jpg

Be advised that you are going to have an algae problem if you use the bubble wrap.

I've got that exact one, put it up in spring and it's been great. Still getting fresh salad and newest peas are just germinating (in NI, so our normal growing season is very short).

I think you'll struggle to get useful shelves along the sides, it curves almost to the ground.

Also that table looks small, I like more room around when I'm working. I have a potting shed beside the polytunnel though so I don't use it in quite the same way.

They recommend digging the fabric into the soil around it, but that's a nonsense. There isn't enough, and you wouldn't be able to get it tight. Get some of these, pull the fabric tight under the frame and put a peg through it every 30cm or so.

Also if you live somewhere windy, get some trampoline anchors and tie the top corners of the tunnel down to them, through the fabric and round the frame.

Is your soil any good? If so I wouldn't worry about building boxes to grow in, just enrich the soil with compost, maneure etc and grow in it directly.

Don't try and grow main UK crops inside it, they'll be too warm. Potatoes, cabbages etc grow much better outside.

I just took a look at your post history and it looks like you are in Newfoundland, CA?

I think your best bet is leafy greens. The leaf arrives before flowers, fruits and seeds, so is a safer option than most. Many greens will grow while there is enough sun and then stop, but will not die in a greenhouse and so can still be harvested in December and January.

Here's a Mother Earth News article on winter hoophouse crops. If you are actually providing some supplemental heat you are way ahead of the game. If you've got twenty bucks to spare or have a good library, get a hold of Four Season Harvest by Eliot Coleman—a huge resource for winter growing.

don't really need a green house indoors.

if you are looking for the plants as decoration i guess you don't want to cover them up, otherwise i would just get a grow tent.

just get a flood table or cement mixing table to put your plants on (water proof, with a sidewall so you can bottom water if you want).

then yeah artificial lighting will look pretty interesting in the house but a 400W hid would probably do just fine for your lemon tree / tomato / peppers or whatever else you can fit up there. i got one of these cheap kits for last year Christmas and has worked good.

You should be able to spot treat aphids with an insecticidal soap. Something like this (no affiliation with the company).

As with any new product always read the instructions completely but the soaps are pretty easy to use and you don't need to buy a lot of it.