Best products from r/GuitarAmps

Heh, fair enough. Switches shouldn't set you back more than a few bucks apiece if you replace them yourself, and then go from there.

What tubes are in there? Six 6L6GC? Looks like about $130 on Amazon if you go with JJs, but they don't have a set of six matched tubes. The old ones may still have plenty of life left in them anyway.

Electrolytic capacitors are the other "wear" item to watch out for. When you do the teardown for the switch replacement, keep an eye out for any leaky caps -- they will let the magic smoke out. Having never worked with a Twin, I'm curious if it has the same giant "canister" style multi-stage capacitor that my Princeton and Bassman did. Those are safe to replace with multiple plain old electrolytic caps, but finding a secure place to put a board full of capacitors can be "fun." At least the replacement caps were cheap.

If the speakers turn out to be trashed, Weber makes some niiiiice replacements that play well with a clean or pedal-based setup. Looks like that will set you back about $228 plus shipping, if you need them.

So, somewhere between $30 and the black market value of a slightly used human kidney. Haha. As for whether it's worth it... Twins are, hands down, the best amps you can get for sheer clean tone -- AMAZING studio amps -- but max volume on the thing may set off car alarms all the way up and down the block. Maybe you'll need to play a set on an airport tarmac?

Yes, you’re almost certainly missing out on a lot of quality.

The analog to digital converter (ADC) in your computer is almost certainly bargain basement hardware, if you have an out of the box PC. If you have a custom built PC with a good sound card or a Mac, this might not be the case. But you’re still going to get more noise, as you’ve already noticed, than with a dedicated piece of hardware.

With that being said, are you recording for fun? If so, who cares if you get some noise? A noise gate plugin will fix that instantly, as far as amateur/hobby grade recording goes. If you’re recording something serious, it’s probably advisable to get a decent interface.

I don’t have much experience mic’ing guitar cabs, but you might run into the issue of your signal being too high, which will cause god awful digital clipping. A dedicated usb audio interface will typically provide you with a gain/volume knob for your input signal. This is an extremely useful feature, in my experience.

If you’re just a beginner, this is a pretty good, straight forward, and very affordable option.

My personal favorite is the Orange Micro Crush. It has decent volume, actually has pretty good tone once you dial it right, and most importantly, doesn't buzz. It also accepts a 9v power cord.

The only other one I have tried was the Danelectro N10. It was horrible. I mean absolutely awful. Terrible tone no matter what the knobs were set to, and buzzed constantly. And by buzz, I mean, every single piece in this thing would rattle around every time you played a note. Also, if you played too loud, it would just cut out. I spent 5 minutes attempting to get my money's worth out of it, and then took out the battery to save for my Micro Crush.

The next one I want to try, because I have an obsession with these little things now, is the Roland Micro-Cube. I've heard nothing but good about it, even though for that price, you could have a significantly larger practice amp.

Edit: I know what I said about the Roland, but I just got the Pignose 7100 as an impulse buy, while at GC for another impulse buy. I have a problem, I know. So this amp is, first of all, really cool looking and solidly built. Second, it requires 6xAA batteries instead of the usual 9v. ...Also, it seems to have a different 9V adaptor port than all other micro-amps and pedals I own. The tone is pretty good, up there with the Orange and I would say even clearer, and you can open the back for a more airy, spacey sound. I like this amp alot, and it may replace my love for the Orange.

For $30, this little thing takes care of the whole problem for you: https://www.amazon.com/BEHRINGER-V-TONE-GUITAR-DRIVER-GDI21/dp/B000CZ0RKG

Three different voiced preamps - fender, Marshall, and boogie - and variable cab sim and built in active DI, and effective baxandall tone stack. It's a little noisy if you turn the gain up but for a backup amp solution it's great.

I bought this attenuator a few months ago to tame my 60watt super sonic, and it was a great purchase. I can crank the amp and keep the volume at bedroom levels. With an attenuator though, you're going to want to dial back the gain or you'll just get fizz

KLD/PAN AMPS NEW PB-1 100 WATT ATTENUATOR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009DUH4E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CnFtxb4VEC0HS

Bugera G5. Great budget head. Based on the Blackstar HT5. I have one. Clean channel is great with pedals.

I always like the Fender rumble 15. My buddy lent it to me when i got a bass and had a lot of fun with it.. no fx loop but takes pedals well!

I tried the Blackstar Fly 3 For guitar and loved it, but this is the bass version!

There's no reason to buy a powered switch with the Katana 50. Get something like this instead. Better yet pick one up at your local shop.

With the switches you can not switch the channels on the panel quite like that instead you are switching between your 4 customizable preset channels - which override your panel settings. In order to get back to your panel you'll need to press the switch on the panel itself. But you can set up 4 channels to your liking, save them and use the switch to switch between them to your heart's content.

So after googling I had it backwards. The 6505+(which I have) has a custom footswitch with a 1/4" input to the amp head but like a XLR(microphone style) input to the pedal. And while that pedal might work for a 6505, it's like $30 more and there's another one that you can use that's available on a few sites:

Amazon as an example

And thanks! I was introduced to reddit from tumblr and tumblrinaction, and it cracked me up.

I used an Eminence Legend V128 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BBDBEU

I would have probably be more patient putting it all together, I rounded corners and inner edges of the front frame before putting the grill cloth, it would have looked better had I waited a bit.

I used a combination stain and polyurethane finish but I wish I had just given it an oil finish... I could still do that but that would required not playing with it for some time and I'm really enjoying it...

I advise you to change the tubes in case you've bought a used AC15C1: as example JJ Tube Upgrade Kit For VOX AC15C1 Amps EL84 ECC83S ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VVNIIVS ) or any other alternative tubes. Sound will improve dramatically, especially on Top Boost channel.

-The Crate speaker cabinet is at a store. I didn't get the model number. i accidentally got the serial number instead! The only other things i remember is it looks 10-20 years old. Its also a slanted cabinet.

-The amp is a Bugera T5 Infinium. 5 watts. 4 ohm min.

-So would it be something like, one plug plays all 4 speakers. The other plug plays 2?

-This amp looks exactly like what i saw, there is a pic of the inputs, the 3rd one.

https://reverb.com/item/1490427-crate-g412sl-4-x-10-slant-guitar-speaker-cabinet-cab-w-wheels

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-I'm not going to buy this cabinet after finding the model number and reading reviews. But i'm curious still how this one works.

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-I'm still wondering, what would happen to the amp output if split, using this splitter:

https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Splitter-6-35mm-Stereo-Quarter/dp/B073SQ21CT

-The male end into the amp, and having two outputs from the amp. Would that split the minimum ohms? Or double it?

It's a Joyo Bluejay with a TC Electronic Mojomojo overdrive in front of it. It's a pretty bright amp, and the overdrive is EQ'd a bit on the treble side. That with the more bass heavy Orange really compliment each other. I'd tried nearly a dozen overdrives before I found that one. Was starting to think I'd need to get a different clean/right amp.

I bought a Hot Rod for my first tube amp a few years ago—mostly because I didn't really know what I was getting into. I haven't really had the money to replace it yet. (OK, fine, to be fair, I have, but I have other things I want to buy too.)

I've managed to get a sound I like out of it—even for my chimey 12-string. Here's how I do it:

1. Plug only into channel 2.
   
2. Keep my drive as clean as possible (1 or 2).
   
3. Use a volume box in the effects loop (the pre/post jacks on the center-right of your controls).
   
4. (Or build that box—it's a ridiculously simple project, but when I eventually rebuild mine, I'm going with a 25k ohm audio pot, not the 100k I used)
   
5. Crank the master volume and use the volume box to keep your volume reasonable.
   
6. Use an overdrive pedal the way god intended—slap your shit straight into full drive, but with some actual control over your tone.
   
7. the Monoprice compressor pedal is surprisingly perfect for adding just a bit of bite to your tone without appreciably increasing the drive.
   
8. Just get used to constantly apologizing for your amp's uncontrollable volume and bad-gnarly drive.

It's not too different from cleaning inside a computer (except the one we got with a mouse nest in it).

Unplug that sucker. One of these in one hand and a vacuum cleaner hose attachment held close to the action (NOT TOUCHING) in the other to get most of the stuff you blow out so you don't have another mess to clean up.

It looks like parallel wiring so...maybe not cheapest way (if you have a soldering iron then definitely not cheapest) is to hook this up (I bought this for a 2x10 cab I built after I found the speakers had only 2 tabs not 4):

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https://reverb.com/item/5704954-earcandy-2x12-guitar-amp-speaker-cab-parallel-wiring-harness-w-jack-cup-hardware-already-soldered

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If you don't mind it (the connection) being outside you could use a spade bit to make the hole in the lower panel and put this in...you still need to make the internal speaker plug so I guess soldering iron is required.

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So you are connecting this to the white and black wires before it goes to the speakers by cutting that wire coming out of your amp and solder the spliced end of something like this...

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Fender-Replacement-Internal-003-8566-049/dp/B07HY7562T/ref=pd_cp_267_2/135-2771638-8671050?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07HY7562T&pd_rd_r=964ee13b-9535-46d0-9d04-770e20160a5c&pd_rd_w=B1hC6&pd_rd_wg=8kObF&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=9NQK3BR8T94XD5HYGYZ8&psc=1&refRID=9NQK3BR8T94XD5HYGYZ8

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I can double check this tomorrow and try to think it through so don't order anything yet.

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***You could also just buy something like this and then solder the wire parts that you leave on the speaker clips to this (about 14 dollars cheaper than the ear candy thing on reverb) :

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Speaker-Plate-Round-Switchcraft/dp/B0716NH7XZ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=input+speaker+jack+guitar+plate&qid=1573768232&sr=8-2

I was able to solve this by removing the tubes and using DeoxIT on the pins. Careful not to get any on the glass; it will remove the ink markings. Some fine sandpaper on the pins might help, as well.

I've got the exact same one, also on a Les Paul funny enough.

Its on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQLTQJB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have to agree with u/rlvis.

I only added this up because I was bored, but I thought a sub $30 estimate seems low as well.

• $10 - switches (2x$5)
  
• $7 - knockoff 125-B enclosure
  
• $2 - 1/4" TRS stereo jack
  
  That's $19 already and I haven't included wire, shipping costs (typically starts at $6.95) plus my shop cost (solder, tool wear, power, time).
  
  Or I can buy the Hosa for $20 from Amazon (shipped) and have a return policy.
  
  Not even a contest to what the real bargain is.

https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-FSC-385-Footswitch-Guitar-style-Dual-latching/dp/B000VXKUL0