(Part 2) Best products from r/Gunpla

Hey! I was in a similar situation a few months ago with around a $200 budget as well. Here's what I got:

Airbrush: Iwata Revolution - It's a great airbrush and is almost always on sale on Amazon for under $100. It's easy to use, easy to clean, and is solvent safe, meaning you can spray more than just acrylics.

Compressor: Master Airbrush - I wanted something with a tank on it because I didn't want it to run the entire time, and this one fit the bill. It's super quiet (I can even run it at night), and it comes with a moisture trap, which is super important. It also comes with a hose!

That brings everything to about $200, so there's not much wiggle room to fit other stuff in if you draw a hard line on your budget, but definitely consider:

Spray Booth: Master Airbrush- This thing is amazing. I love it. It's compact and super easy to use. It folds up super tidy and even has a button to retract the cord.

Cleaner: Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner - comes in different sizes, but it's been wonderful when cleaning out my brush between paints or when I need to do my monthly field-strip.

Thinner, Retarder, and Flow Improver: Vallejo products!- I love the Vallejo Auxillaries. They're easy to use, pretty cheap, and widely available depending where you live.

Well I’m personally a MG builder, and would want to recommend you an MG, but they can be complex for a new builder so an HG might be a better choice. I hear the 1/144 HGUC Gundam Revive is a easy starter kit. If you’re feeling up for an MG (or want a bigger sized kit) the Gundam X is a great starter.

As for tools you’re going to need a decent pair of nippers. The Gundam Planet Nippers are the best bang for your buck. Known as the second best nippers around. Besides that the Tamiya nippers are ok compared to those.

After that you’ll need a hobby knife. This Is the one I use. Comes with a lot of replacement blades, and it’s pretty cheap.

The next thing you’re gonna want is panel lining pens. Here is a decent priced set.

It’s also recommended to get a good sand paper set. Get a 600, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit paper. Here Is a pretty good set. You don’t have to get this right away, but if you don’t want nasty nub marks this is a must.

Those are the bare minimum things you need to start. There’s other things you’ll want down the line like top coat to make your kits look nicer, Gundam markers to paint small details, a kraft mat to build on/cut decals out on, mark setter/softener to make water slides look better, and an airbrush for serious painting. Those are all more advanced thing you don’t have to think about until later when you want to pursue them. For now the things above are starter essentials

I use hard Wave sticks too and love them. They sand very flat (something I liked files for) but are quite gentle on the plastic in terms of deap scratches. BUT for some reason the 800 grit is disconnected like in your link. Anyone know where else you can get it?

In terms of files I have the Tamiya basic , Tamiya fine basic , and a (hopefully) nicer plastic hobby file on order just to try. Files are nice for larger jobs like serious molding flaws (not common in Bandai kits) and the fine ones are OK for nubs but still quite rough compared to any sanding stick. Although, as you know I'm sure, files last forever and require much less effort and time to chew through plastic. I'm hoping the plastic file is the Holy grail and is a good balance. I bought a set of needle files and diamond files from harbor freight and they blow. The trash just don't grip or cut don't waste your $3.

And as a reference I own Revell, squadron , nail buff sticks, and have made my own sticks from automotive sand paper. The nail files are way too rough imo, making my own is a pain, and while the squadron sticks are nice I mainly only used the tri-grit while I used all the Revell except the roughest and are probably the best value imo. I still use the other more flexible kinds but dramatically prefer wave. Wish the 800 grit still were available.

Long post sorry. Hope it helps

Edits: spelling, phrasing, and lots of links

1. Oil dot filters and oil washes (gunk wash) are subtle changes to the overall tone of the kit and you're not going to be able to tell the difference between the two really when the kit is done. It doesn't really matter which you do first in my experience, but armor modelers seem to do a wash first and then the oil dot filters. Check out this video filters start at 10 minutes in.
   
2. There isn't a rule in what colors you need to use for what base coat. You need to decide what kind of environment has your mobile suit been in and select colors based on that. So for example, if your mobile suit has been fighting in the desert, then you'd want to have a more yellowish-beige-ish tone. Of course, you don't want to go over-board with the modulation, so your white parts will just have a slightly yellowish tone and not look like it's been painted yellow.
   
3. Maybe check out this video to get an answer on chipping. But yes, using a slightly lighter version of the base color and then your choice of the bare metal color (can be grey, silver, whatever you want) is a good way to do chipping. When it comes to white, use something contrasting like dark grey or maybe dark brown for a rust look.
   
4. You have the right idea going but you might want to use grey or dark grey instead of black. Black can be too contrasting just from an artistic point of view. You'd probably want to color-in the blasted part dark grey, dry brush the silver and add touches of rust here and there. But you also have to consider the state of your mobile suit. If the laser blast has been there for a while, you might not see silver metal, it'll probably be all rusted. And vice versa is true, if your mobile suit just got shot, there probably won't be any rust.
   
5. Yes there is a difference between acrylic and lacquer clear coat. Lacquer is generally more durable, it doesn't scratch as easily and you can use either enamels or acrylics on top of it safely, but it is pretty toxic stuff. Acrylics are a lot less toxic but if you paint enamels or lacquers over it, the enamel and lacquer paint will eat through the acrylic coat and can affect whatever work you have done under the varnish. Lacquers can indeed harm plastic, but if you use proper spraying technique (spray past your kit in multiple quick bursts), any solvents that can potentially harm the plastic will dry too quickly to do any damage. I'm not 100% sure what kind of a product the link you have is for, but ideally you'd want to find a good hobby brand spray can clear coat like this (acrylic) or this (lacquer)
   
6. Youtube and the wiki are your best friend, you don't need to buy books for those kinds of things, there are plenty of material out there. Checkout channels such as Gunpla Lab, Ravi Pla, JENIC, Zaku Aurelius, Musasino Plamodel, LIKE GUNPLA, (most of these channels speak korean some videos have subtitles, some don't) and non-gunpla channels such as PLASMO, Night Shift, Scale Modelling Channel and see what techniques can you bring over to gunpla. For a lot of the basic stuff and even some advanced techniques, check out Gunpla Lab's tutorial series and Paint Project series. They speak Korean but have professionally translated videos so the subtitles are fantastic.

Welcome to hobby!

First and foremost, if you've never built gunpla, or a model kit in general be sure to check the links on the side to get you started.

As for suggestions for a kit, I'd recommend getting an HG kit from your favorite series. You're bound to find your favorite suit in HG form. That being said; if you don't have one or still want suggestions I'd recommend:

• HGBF Build Strike Gundam Full Package(or its upgrade the Star Build Strike).
  
  
• HGCE Aile Strike Gundam(or the sisters version Strike Rouge).
  
  
• HGAC Wing Gundam.
  
  
• HG AGE Gundam Age-1 Normal.
  
  
• HG 00 - 00 Gundam(or any of its variations).
  
  All these are excellent kits in my opinion and have pretty good parts separation so they won't need a ton of panting(except the Build Strikes...their boosters need a lot of work). They're also relatively cheap. I used amazon as a general site since they have good prices generally and are even better if you have amazon prime. But you are free to find your stuff elsewhere.
  
  As for completion times from start to finish? Its hard to say since everyone builds at different paces and touch ups can range from just panel lining + stickers, to panel lining+painting all the details instead of stickers and painting those details not covered by stickers at all + topcoat. In my case a High Grade, assuming it doesn't need a ton of painting, will run me 6-7 hours. But I'll panel line line, omit the stickers and paint everything I can, then top coat. So I'd say be prepared to take at least 3-4 hours depending on your building pace and nub management. Add 1 or 2 hours for detailing.
  
  Hope this helps.

hmm for offical gundam colors here is a link http://www.gundamplanet.com/gundam-color-spray-100ml-semi-gloss.html .

However, to get the color just the way you want it, its better to mix your own paint, and you can save up for a airbrush kit as you can pick up a starter kit, for about 100 bucks on Amazon, that comes with three airbrushes.

Here is a link to the kit i bought, which is good for pepole just starting out with airbrushing cause it comes with both styles of airbrushes: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006HJCP8S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. despite beeing being 'cheap' airbrushes, they are all very good brushes.

However, if you do not mind hand painting you can just get a airbrush paint starter kit for around 20-34 bucks, that comes with all the basic colors needed to mix your own pigments. and well they are called airbrush paints they work just fine for hand painting as well.

You can also get spray paint cans that you can fill yourself, instead of a airbrush. They start at around 20 bucks for a single can. I do not know much about them as chose to get a airbrush instead.

As for paint well I have used a few different brands of airbrush paint for both airbrushing and hand painting. What I like best is Createx wicked colors airbrush paint. Its a water based self curing paint that is also made in the USA. Its safe for models and also a automotive paint.

I also recamend regardless of what type of paint you go with that you first use a lair of primer. Primer will smooth out any small defects that a gunpla gets from building it or accident.

http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide has a great tutorial for beginner spraypainting and airbrushing techniques, along with a lot of other tips for building gunpla. despite having built a lot of kits i still check it from time to time.

I hope this did not come out to lecturery, helps you, and I hope you enjoy falling down the rabbit hole that is gunpla.

If you live in the US, you can get Krylon Matte Finish at walmart for pretty cheap. Art supply stores like Michaels carry them, but is usually more expensive. This is the CHEAP option.

 

Otherwise, your other options for hobby-grade top coat are Tamiya, Mr. Color (like this Flat topcoat), Model Masters, and Testors are brands I have tried and work well. I usually can get 2-3 cans of the krylon for the price of 1 of the hobby-grade top coat. HOWEVER, the hobby-grade ones produce a much better finish, especially if you want semi-gloss or gloss.

 

If you panel it now, you can return to paint it later without too much hassle. You can use isopropyl alcohol 91% with a toothpick to remove the ink in the panel line. If you topcoat it, and depends on the topcoat you use, you will have to soak the parts in the appropriate solution to strip it (I was able to strip the Krylon using Isopropyl alcohol 91%, and Model Masters / Testors with this stuff. Haven't tried the Tamiya or Mr. Color yet, although I think it can also be stripped by the Super Clean stuff).

 

Sorry for the wall of text, and best of luck!

1. For me I generally just prime and then paint. You can get away with sanding and then painting, but I reserve that for smaller surface areas and for pieces that are going to be painted in a darker or similar color to the original plastic.
   
   
2. You just add thinner to a portion of your paint to make it more dilute and in turn saving paint. It's recommended you take a few drops of your color and thin that instead of thinning your whole pot so the paint doesn't coagulate and "spoil" if you're using a weird thinner (some people don't have this problem, so you can try that out if you want).
   The consistency you want for your thinned paint varies depending on the method of application, but for handpainting, most people thin it to the consistency of water. Not so thin that it's water color-like, but just when it has that watery consistency, that's perfect. I've done this with enamel paints and enamel thinner and the results were great.
   
3. If what you're talking about regarding glue is seamline removal, you do not want to use super glue for this. Use liquid plastic cement like Tamiya or Testors depending on what's available to you. And yes, apply the cement, sand the seam away, and then paint. It makes sense when you think about it; you don't want to sand your paintjob away
   
4. Tip: after you prime, you're not done! Check for any imperfections in the kit like holes or nubs left over from building. You can now sand and fill in those mistakes with putty and then reprime and check again. This is a major step that decides how well your paintjob will turn out.
   
   hope this helps

So this guy was the subject of lots of experimentation.

• This is my first time applying a full topcoat. I used two coats of Krylon clear matte acrylic from a spray can. Turned out pretty smooth, despite me not having a proper setup during application. It smudged up a few of my Gundam Marker panel lines, but nothing serious.
  
  
• I messed around with more metallic candy coating. I reckon my Tamiya Silver Chrome undercoat should've been applied in multiple thinner coats, rather than the single coat I brushed on. My brush strokes are pretty visible. :/
  
  
• Instead of lame foil stickers, I painted all the "lights" with Aurora glow-in-the-dark paint. The paint itself has a grainy, toothpasty texture that made it a bit difficult to apply precisely. Some very careful light sanding in between coats, and a topcoat of clear nail polish, and I think it turned out alright. The brightness of the green glow is pretty impressive in-person.
  
  
• I added a couple extra panel lines on the shield using my newly-acquired Tamiya scribing knife. They're a bit rough, but with some practice, I'm sure I could turn out some wicked panel lines on future builds.
  
  
• The radome snapped off one if the sub-arm's connector tabs, so I had to glue it on there permanently. Luckily, I grabbed the Ez Arms kit, so I have a spare backpack, in case I want to reconfigure it with different weaponry.
  
  Overall, super fun, solid build. I learned a lot working on this one.

There was a fairly recent release of a High Grade Wing Gundam Zero kit, but it looks like he prefers MGs... I think there are a few variations of the Wing Gundam kit, such as the Proto Version, Wing Gundam(EW), Wing Zero(EW). or if you want to be the best friend ever there is the Perfect Grade Wing Gundam.

If he is a fan of the Gundam Wing series, it is worth considering Deathscyth, Deathscythe Hell, or Sandrock, which are other 'protagonist' mobile suits that fight sort-of along side the Wing Gundam.

There is also Epyon and Tallgeese, two 'bad guy' mobile suits from the same series.

If he is a fan of the original Gundam series, the RX-78 or a Zaku kit(there are many variations) would be good as well.

Also, be careful buying on Amazon if you want it to be delivered by the 10th (or shortly after). Quite a few of the sellers with good prices are based in Japan so it can take upwards of a month or more for the item to arrive if you buy it from them. It can be easy to miss that information if you're not paying attention.

I believe I have finally decided on my first Gunpla, the HG Age II Magnum and want to make sure the items I have added to my Amazon cart are ideal or not for a beginner/future use for HG and MG kits. The list is as follows:

• Gundam Model Builder's Cutting Mat 12"x9"
  
• Findfly 9Pcs Gundam Model Tool Kit
  
• Gundam Marker Value Set
  
• Mr. Super Clear Flat Spray
  
• Bamboo Skewers
  
• Alligator Clips
  
• ScotchBlue Painter's Tape
  
• Styrofoam Blocks
  
  I know that this sub has a list of tools and tutorials, but because I'm trying to budget, I was thinking no more than $100 would be ideal for me to start with. Since I'm beginning with HG models, I don't think I need a full set of Gundam markers, but if it's needed/required/highly suggested, I might pick them up as well.
  
  So I have read and seen that top coating and panel lining are essential for MG models to make them pop. Are they just as essential for HG model kits? Looking at pictures of the Age II Magnum I'm planning on getting from Amazon, it doesn't seem to have a lot of indents for panel lining. Of course, I could be wrong and be blind as a bat. If I don't do any sort of panel lining, is it still a good idea to add a top coat regardless?
  
  Also, how soon can one get into MG kits? I was originally going to jump straight into either the MG GM Sniper II or the RX-78-2 Ver 3.0 but after doing some research over the past few days, I've decided I'll be doing a few HG's to begin with as I haven't built model kits since I was like 7 or 8 with my dad. I'm thinking after the Age II Magnum, I was thinking about getting either the HG Double O Diver or the HG 00 Shia Qan[T]. Maybe after I complete the 3 HG's I've listed, is it possible to jump to the the GM Sniper II?
  
  TL;DR:
  
  

• Are the items I have listed a good starting point?
  
  
• Is a full set of Gundam Markers a necessity for HG/beginners?
  
  
• Are panel lining and top coatings important for HG model kits?
  
  
• Is it okay to use top coat on an HG model if no panel lining is used?
  
  
• Edit Do people usually top coat the accessories? I can't seem to find any info on that.
  
  
• What color panel lining pens do people normally use based on different parts of Gunpla's?
  
  
• What level of skill should one be at before getting into MG model kits?
  
  

As a few others have mentioned, the MG Sazabi Ver. Ka is the companion kit to the Nu Ver. Ka. Right now it is $85 on amazon, which is $15 above your price range. However, $85 is a great price for the kit considering the lowest price it has been on amazon was $74. As a side note, I have to say the Sazabi Ver Ka is one of the best kits I have ever built.

Another option is the Hi-Nu Ver. Ka. It is an alternate version of the Nu Gundam (the one that you linked). From what I understand, the Hi-Nu is an amazing kit, and is currently $73 on amazon.

Keeping in the same set of kits, you can get several SD kits. They are smaller cuter versions of the full kits and are much cheaper and easier to build. Plus getting three of them will cost about $40. Here are the links:

Nu Gundam SD

Sazabi SD

Hi-Nu Gundam SD

I hope this helped. If you can find out more about which series they like, we can offer more suggestions.

I use gold, silver, and copper paint markers specifically gundam markers and sharpies

For the gundam markers I got the metallic gundam marker set: https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467993243&sr=8-1&keywords=gundam+marker+metallic

The gold and silver from that set is super useful but the other colors less so, they're okay but can be really uneven in the color they put out so I'd suggest for the other colors only for small and very few spots on a kit to lower your chances of getting inconsistent color (again though this is not a problem with the gold and silver they're great)

For the sharpies I used a metallic marker pack that I bought at Wal-Mart that has gold, silver, and bronze: https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Metallic-Permanent-Assorted-1829201/dp/B007QNWC3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467993555&sr=8-1&keywords=Metallic+sharpie+markers (It was like this pack, same markers but only one of each and it was really cheap like around $3-$5)

The sharpies are great they don't really spill like the gundam markers can but the downside to them is that they can kind of streak easily especially on bigger surfaces and they can rub off fairly easily which is great for cleaning areas where you accidentally covered, but can be a little frustrating when the color rubs away on areas that you wanted the metallic color (top coat helps protect the paint)

I use the Neo CN and my only gripe with it is that the paint cup is small for doing large parts in batches(think PG large - but it's good for almost everything else). It's very easy to tear down and clean. Another issue is that the O-ring for the cup will break down quickly if you keep it around lacquer/enamel thinners, but it doesn't seem to be necessary (My cup no longer has the O-ring and there's no leaks).

For compressors try looking for used ones on eBay or craigslist (You're looking for one that delivers at least 30 PSI with oil-less single or double piston operation). You can get name brand one with a deep discount. Most compressors made for hobbyists come with regulators already so no big deal. Try to get a name brand one such as Testors, Silentaire, Iwata, Badger, Paasche, Grex. The designs from Master and unbranded are all copies of the ones made by Silentaire and others. I can't comment on the quality but they get lots of good ratings and recommendations. Here's a prime example. Noise can definitely be an issue, so do look into quieter options with tanks if you live in an apartment complex. I use a old model Testors AC 200 and it can run for 3 hours easily without thermal protection kicking in. I picked it up for 40 dollars on ebay.

Honestly if you use a proper hobby thinner with your paint you'll never have part brittleness unless you just pool a crap ton of paint. Lacquer thinner (the medium with the worst rap) can dissolve polystyrene and ABS, but when paint atomizes from the airbrush, most of the thinner already evaporates as it travels the distance to the part. When most of the paint hits, the worst enemy of your plastic is already in the air. Hardware store thinner can be much harsher than hobby brand thinners (Mr. Hobby Thinner/Leveling Thinner/GaiaNotes Thinner/Tamiya X-20A lacquer thinner), even then I know a few users here use hardware store lacquer thinner with no issues. But if you're afraid of paint brittle-ness you can just stick to acrylics such as Tamiya, Vallejo, Citadel/Games Workshops, etc. They are easier to clean up and the fumes aren't near as bad as lacquers (still need a mask for particles, though). I wouldn't recommend spraying a lot of enamels as base color though, as enamel thinner can also make parts brittle and unlike lacquer it doesn't evaporate nearly as fast. Not to mention everytime I'd spray testors or tamiya enamels they'd be quite difficult to clean out of the airbrush.

Another thing to consider when you're choosing your type of paint is where you can spray. If you can only spray inside and you don't have the money for a really good spray booth, you should stick with acrylics. Acrylics also require good ventilation but you can get away with a strong fan blowing out a window and a respirator as well. Lacquers fumes are carcinogenic. I spray mine outside with a fan running behind me and my organic vapor respirator on. I'll be investing in a spray booth further down the line but it's important to consider your workspace.

Wow I love the look of that kit!!! I'll tell you right now, Pledge clear will be your best friend for removing any stress marks or scratches from removing/sanding nubs

http://www.amazon.com/SC-Johnson-Pledge-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451352679&sr=8-1&keywords=pledge+clear#Ask

As far as clean decal work goes, make sure to clean the surface of the model with a degreaser before applying the decal. Then, after you cut out the decal and soak it, take it out of the water, still on the paper, and slide it straight on to the model.

It's not absolutely necessary to wash the pieces, though it doesn't hurt. Old Bandai kits used to have a layer of residue on the plastic to help the piece get removed from the mold but the technology nowadays have improved a lot and there isn't a need to wash the pieces. Priming is important to help the paint adhere to the plastic, though even then it is not necessary. Some people will still swear by the wash, prime, paint, gloss, panel line, top coat procedure. Some (myself included) have skipped the washing and priming part, though I do prime when changing stock color schemes.

To do the front skirt of bb351, I would paint the whole thing light blue, or the color of your choice, let the paint dry, mask the inner part (where you want to keep the blue) and then spray the whole piece gold. Let it dry, remove the masking tape, and you should have a two colored piece. Procedure is similar for the other pieces. Do not paint the transparent parts unless you want to make them opaque?

[Liquid cement] (https://smile.amazon.com/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement/dp/B000BMYWYC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501907274&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+liquid+cement), one of the more important tools in your gunpla tool box. It pretty much melts the two pieces and fuses them together.

yea i don't plan on painting, i might do a clear gloss or clear pearl gloss though later one. so do you think it is worth sanding still even if i don't plan on painting?

​

is there a sandpaper stick pack you recommend then? is the following link better? like i said i don't want to paint aside from the clear coat i might get later on

​

https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-Sanding-Sponge-Sheet-4-type/dp/B00MCM21P6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=tamiya+sanding&qid=1564010996&s=gateway&sr=8-2

​

what grit would i start and end with in that one if you think its good?

That strike is shit quality and no i don't mean your craftsmanship, looks good in that regard. Get yourself the better HG Strike, much better detail and part separation, the grey frame parts on the body arms and legs are their own parts that don't require stickers, the shield has proper yellow bits as well and the overall quality and joint strength is better too. The Perfect Strike pack is 100% compatible with it, i'm using it with mine.

Edit: I was wrong about the model i linked being a Revive kit, it is still a much better kit than the original strike that comes with the Perfect Strike though.

It's not the size of the 1/144 scale, its the size of the pieces - once again, its not inherently hard, it just can be tricky.

Since you're thinking of ordering RG Freedom and Strike Freedom, might I suggest HGCE Aile Strike or any of the variations.

• HGCE Aile Strike
  
• HGCE Strike Rouge
  
• HGBF Build Strike FP
  
• HGBF Star Build Strike
  
  All of these kits are based on a new mold created in 2014 (as opposed to the original HG SEED Aile Strike made 2002). They're all definitely great for beginners and are at a good price point.
  
  I could also suggest the Build Burning, as /u/Mirarii already has, though you'd be trading play options for 2 sets of effect parts (blue and orange) - Build Burning Gundam has zero weapons (which may not be a problem for you).
  ***
  I noticed your updated list has an Action Base 1. Those are typically for 1/100 scale.
  
  You had the Action Base 2 before which is for 1/144 scale: you should switch it back.

In our Wiki we have a list of retailers listed under "Shopping". As a general suggestion from me, Amazon (with Prime shipping, otherwise it might come from Japan, taking a few weeks to a month to arrive) is usually the easiest way to get your first kit. Figure out international shipping once you get into the hobby.

As a beginner, it would be a good idea to check out the rest of the wiki for some useful info before you start.

Also, the PG is considered pretty bad. The MG and RG kits are fairly well regarded. The old HG is outdated but not too bad, might be your best bet for a first kit.

Another option is the SDEX if you like chibi proportions.

not sure if there are special considerations for a zaku, but a huge step up from markers are these tamiya panel line accent colors. These look like other paint bottles, but actually they're much easier to use. They come with a sort of brush tip on the other side of the lid, and all you need to do is just to 'touch' the wet tip into a panel line, and the paint will just 'fill' the gaps in the panel through gravity. Look up videos if you're not familiar with panel washing.

You can see it comes in a variety of different colours, you should get 2 different ones and see which one works better, but 1 of them should be the black as it works quite well on most panel lines

This is the compressor I use.

It's relatively cheap, very silent, has a tank to avoid pulsing and running the compressor non-stop. Moisture trap included. Needs a lot of plumber's tape to install the trap vertically and airtight, but it's a good buy nonetheless.

As for my airbrush setup, I inherited a thirty-five year old Badger 150 from my father, it looks a bit like this. The thing is a classic, sprays like silk, and is worth about 175-220$ if you buy it new. Cleanup is a bit more involving than recent models, but it's a dream airbrush!

I added a cheap, second water trap in line with the airbrush so I don't have to worry when I spray lacquer. It's really humid where I live, so I prefer to be extra sure :)

Save your money you are like $100 bucks off getting a decent set up.

Edit: Let me elaborate on my reasons a little bit.

You want an air compressor with a tank and an automatic on/off switch.

This will keep your airbrush from getting pulsating air and the on/off switch will extend the life of your compressor (so will the tank as it isn't running all the time). Some added bonuses is being able to work without a lot of noise.

There are some cheap ones you can buy on amazon. ( TheTC-40T and the Master Tank Compressor)

Airbrushes are tricky. but you still can get soem good ones under $100. Like the Badger Krome RK-1, Badger 105 Patriot, Iwata Neo (Not made by Iwata but supported by them), and Iwata Revolution

Sandpaper is really cheap at the hardware store, just get some varying grits (i go up to 1500). If you want files, you can probably find some good hobby ones, I use the tamiya file set. If you are going to be disassembling your kits for painting or whatever reason, spudgers are very helpful. Definitely top coat, Krylon Matte and Clear top coats are good, there are more hobby specific coats that are very good, but more expensive. Panel lining supplies are also good, either pens or ink for a panel line wash. Alligator clips on sticks are also handy if you are going to be top coating

The 3-pack of markers for bold lines:

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Value/dp/B00HY93GHY/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia?crid=3GTR0RXGUXX4H&keywords=gundam+marker+set&pd_rd_i=B00HY93GHY&pd_rd_r=3b3b062e-d90d-495a-8e52-176ed31b8ba1&pd_rd_w=RRUZa&pd_rd_wg=sdCxW&pf_rd_p=a5491838-6a74-484e-8787-eb44c8f3b7ff&pf_rd_r=9A24ZX8C18EJZBXABCXP&psc=1&qid=1571687311&sprefix=gundam+marker%2Caps%2C152

Tamiya ink works differently, it will spread down the lines: (Comes in a variety of colors)
https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-87131-Panel-Accent-Plastic/dp/B01HDJ7BR0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=tamiya+ink&qid=1571687349&s=toys-and-games&sr=1-1

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And I like to use this for fine details, it is thinner than the Gundam markers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UCSNQY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

These I use for cleaning, the middle grit will take off ink, then the fine will buff the marks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R34AE66/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Hope this is helpful, good luck!

Im a big fan of Iwata airbrushes. the Eclipse HP-CS is a good mid range AB. More expensive than what you paid for your chinese one I'm sure. But its not super expensive, and you'll notice the quality difference right away.

I didn't mean that you're going to sand most of the gloss coat off. I just mean that you sand it enough that you don't see glossiness anywhere on the piece. The gloss coat will usually have a little bit of an uneven surface after its sprayed on. some times this uneven surface will be very pronounced, which is called orange peel, because it looks like the skin of an orange. Even if you did a really good job spraying, there will be some slight unevenness. Make a couple quick passes of sand paper and you'll see the high spots will no longer be glossy and the low spots will remain glossy. But if you keep sanding, all those high spots will be leveled off and you'll create a flat smooth surface. At that point, all the glossiness will be gone. It sounds counter-intuitive, I know. But Now that the surface is flat and smooth the polishing compound will bring the gloss back.

found this vid real quick, illustrating wet sanding and orange peel on a larger scale (a car). it wont be this pronounced on a model but it will be there. They don't show how to buff, but you do see them wet sanding. It's the same basic concept, just on small pieces.

I should also mention that if you are only wanting to do a gloss coat for proposes of applying decals and panel washes, and are just going to spray a flat clear over that, don't bother with all this. just spray it and leave it. it'll be glossy enough to do that stuff. But if you want you end finish to be super glossy, wet sanding and polishing is the way to go.

tamiya ts 80

​

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-TS-80-Clear-Spray-100ml/dp/B000ZVO3YS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=tamiya+top+coat&qid=1568355627&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

is that a good alternate top coat? mr top coat is nowhere in stock... and apparently the super clear is lacquer based and no good over decals and panel liners? so that leaves me the taimya one? is that ok to use?

From my own experience with Gundam markers, they usually dry in a few minutes, but I only use them for small detail painting. They do not need primer, but a topcoat will help protect them as they can get scratched fairly easily. The Basic and Metallic sets are both very useful, along with the three panel lining markers.

That is a good recommendation above, but the best bang for your buck would be this tool set.

http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-74016-Basic-Tool-Set/dp/B000BMYWXI/

It's got cutters, a knife and a file, along with some screwdrivers if you ever build Action Bases.

As for starter MG's, I'd suggest the MG Aile Strike Ver RM.

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Strike-Gundam-Action/dp/B00C0NRVKW/

It comes with its own stand and usually sells for around 40-50$.

If you're not a seed fan then you can't go wrong with the RX-78-2 version 3.0.

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-RX-78-2-Action/dp/B00CRSXK4Q/

It doesn't come with an action base but its still one of the best MG's out there.

Congrats! Keep us posted, it's always fun to see how peoples' journeys differ. I picked up a $9 set of files from Tamiya and it changed my skills almost instantly. They remove nubs much faster than any sandpaper, if you can get ahold of them I'd recommend also grabbing a higher grit sandpaper pad as well from a hobby store. Do a rough cleaning with the metal files then clean it up with increasingly higher grit sanding pads.

You can get seriously clean models if you use these tools right.

Best sandpaper grit to prep parts before painting?

So I looked at a kit I snapped together some time ago, and want to paint it -- but it has some imperfections. Small nubs, etc.

What grit sandpaper/sanding sticks would I need to smooth out the surface for it to be good enough to paint. I don't care for stress marks or anything like that -- just has to end up looking nice when it's painted.

I also found this product, and wonder if the grits are fine -- https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-Sanding-Sponge-Sheet-4-type/dp/B00MCM21P6/

Thank you!

I'm based out of the US so I don't know what brands are available to you. I've used two brands:

Krylon: I bought a big can like this from a local hardware store for about 3 USD. It does an okay job. It's a sort of flat finish but there's still a touch of shine to it. For bulk spraying it seems like a good deal but it's not the most beautiful finish. I assume most of the clear flat/matte sprays will be roughly this quality. One of these has lasted me through like 4 or 5 HG kits so far.

Testors: I bought some of this from a local hobby shop for about 5 USD per can. It's a lot less spray for a bit more money but the finish on this was great. One of these seems to do one or two HG kits.

1)I disagree. I tried 6 different flat topcoats, and by far the FLat Acrylic Crystal clear is the best deal. For $5 bucks you get a can that is more than enough to finish 2-3 HGUC kits.

Name one other flat coat for roughly the same price/amount ?

2) For decals you should buy Pledge Multipurpose Polish (rebranded Future Floor wax). That bottle will last you the rest of your Gunpla career. All you have to do is brush it on where you are going to put your decals, let it dry for a bit and then apply your decals. Another trick (that I did with better results) was you can put your decals on first and then brush on the future floor wax afterwards. This seals in the decal even better, hides the decal edges even better and GURANTEES that your decals will not silver. The only negative to brushing on clear coat is that there is a slight "edge" to the clear coat if you look at it at certain angles.

After that apply your Flat coat as usual

The major impact is due to the Matte top coat:

Mr. Top Coat Flat Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WS12C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DdWuDbQHS4ZJE

They are VERY cheap in Japan but good luck importing them at a good price.

I prefer washes and usually use Vallejo washes. Usually Vallejo oil. If you want to use gloss coat by had, check out this. It can be used both by hand and in an airbrush. It will give you a gloss coat to use with a wash. It is acryllic so don't scrub too hard but it can work very well.

I usually put the wash down and let it sit for a couple seconds then wipe away with my finger. If you want to get really fancy, wipe in the direction you would think rain would move the oil stain down the suit. Example 1 and Example 2. This will give you a pretty good looking run mark for the rain pushing oil or rust down from the site. Take into account where it may gather, then go from there. You can use water and a q-tip if you don't want to use your finger. If you scrub too hard with that it will also strip away the gloss coat. It does take a bit to do that though.

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Wing-Gundam-Version/dp/B0004EAFWK/ref=pd_lpo_21_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Z7C2JSX8Y465QD7G8Q0X
Your love of wing is as great as mine this is a solid and beautiful rendition of the Wing Zero so I would recommend this or this
https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-GUNDAM-VER-Ka-Master-Action/dp/B00030EUTY

I'm planning on top coating some HGs. I'm also using gundam markers for small details and the pour type markers for panel lines. Which top coat would be better: tamiya, mr. hobby top coat, mr. premium top coat spray, or mr. super clear, or maybe anyone have other recommendations?

MG Jesta. Amazing articulation, can use an LED, Just an all around amazing grunt suit kit. Also Amazon has it on sale with Prime for only $47. This really is a no brainier :D

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Jesta-Model-Kit/dp/B00B596V6W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405955484&sr=8-1&keywords=mg+jesta

Or if you want a great upgrade to an old school kit, get RX-78-2 MG 3.0, $45 with prime.

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-RX-78-2-Action/dp/B00CRSXK4Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1405955604&sr=8-3&keywords=mg+jesta

Tools like this or this are used for scribing custom panel lines. Just sand the lines after scribing to flatten the raised plastic that resulted from the scribing.

If you check out the Repository of useful links and threads on the sidebar, you'll find almost all the answers to questions you'll have.

EDIT: There's also this Big List of Gunpla Tutorials & Resources with tutorials to everything. It used to be in the repository, I think, but may have been removed. Anyway, good thing I bookmarked it before. Enjoy!

Airbrush

Compressor

X-acto -Z series blades are great.

For sandpaper you can just buy some popsicle sticks and 400, 600, 1000 grain, and then a buffing pad from a nearby hobby store or something like walmart even, it's all the same honestly. The popsicle sticks you can wrap the paper over to give you something to rub it against easily. Just practice on some of the parts that come with a kit that don't get used so you aren't eating away too much plastic.

GSI Creos AMS 121 Gundam Metallic Marker Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IeLzDbZJT2579

I used all the colors but the silver (was worried about the metallic red but pleased with how it turned out), and I would highly recommend these. Not too bad price wise about $10 for the set.

getting a lot of mixed answers about this, but if I'm not painting my kit and want to panel line, should I bother with a clear coat beforehand? I'm planning on using a fine tip Gundam Marker and some Tamiya panel line accent color (this one). from what I've read, I don't need to bother with a base clear coat if I'm not painting.

and if I do need a base clear coat, is this the right one?

Quick question, as a complete noobie to Gunpla, I was wondering if these would be the appropriate sprays to use for top coating, both for the gloss, so I could pannel line, and then do the decaling and weathering and obviously then the matte coat.

So would these work for the gloss and matte coats, or are there better options out there. Obviously price isnt to much of an option, as long as its the best bang for the buck.

The first one I've found is the gloss its by Mr.Hobby, called Mr.Super Clear Gloss and the second one was the matte final coat by Tamyia Color called Tamiya Color TS80 Flat Clear

Hahaha. No problem
(Hobby Link Japan Marker Black)
https://hlj.com/gundam-marker-black-fine-tip-for-panel-lines-gnzgm01
(Hobby Link Japan marker Grey)
https://hlj.com/gundam-marker-gray-fine-tip-for-panel-lines-gnzgm02
(Amazon set of 3) https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Value/dp/B00HY93GHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=panel+line&qid=1569935250&sr=8-2
(Amazon Tamiya Panel Wash Black)
https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-87131-Panel-Accent-Plastic/dp/B01HDJ7BR0/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=panel+line&qid=1569935250&sr=8-4
(Amazon Tamiya Panel Wash Grey)
https://www.amazon.com/Panel-Line-Accent-Color-Light/dp/B07CMSBDCB/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=panel+line&qid=1569935250&sr=8-8
I put links from Hobby link Japan because thats what people here recommend using, bit I also put Amazon because it might be easier for you. Unfortunately I couldn't find the wash on Hobby link. Happy Building 😁

I ordered this kit a couple months ago as a starter kit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LB1T5D

Should I be looking at a better cutter? Or is this one fine and it's just my technique that needs work? If it's my technique can you recommend a youtube video or anything that would help me improve?

Yeah, this one might be worth looking into though folks here swear by the gravity fed Iwata Neo CN or Badger Patriot 105 airbrushes for being great quality and beginner friendly.

> I'll be getting a pg unicorn

I don't think there is one yet... Do you mean Master Grade?

I'm not sure on the rubber cement. I use Tamiya Plastic Cement. For markers, I suggest the fine tip gundam markers. These are cool because if you make a mistake, you can wipe it off before it dries. Your strategy looks good. Are you going to be doing nub removal? I use a x-acto knife and very high grit sandpaper to get rid of nubs. You also might want to pick up the Tamiya Basic Tool Set for removing the pieces off runners. As far as changes to kits over the past 10 years, I've noticed that HG and MG kits have gotten a lot better. There's a lot more detail in them now than there was before. Also, a new line of gunpla has come out called Real Grade. These aim to take the quality and articulation of a Master Grade kit, and put it in 1/144 scale. They look fantastic, and have a inner frame that you build.

This community has been great with answering so many questions but this is the first time I can’t find the question I’m asking
I’m hoping to step up my building with adding paints. So my questions are
1.For now I just want to paint the Master Grades inner frame. From what I’ve gathered, this would be a neat inner frame color but do I need to prime the inner frame ?
2. Assuming the inner frame is spray painted with question 1’s spray can and I go about my regular building process, when I matte topcoat finish with this, will it react it some weird way with the inner frame color ?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

I just bought this, and it's great for me. It has a .5mm tip which would probably be considered large - they're usually .3mm. That big honkin' tip means I can blow any paint through it with little or no thinning.

I also bought the Master starter kit for like $70 that comes with a working compressor and crappy airbrush. Honestly, if it could blow the glittery createx crap that I use it would have been perfectly OK for gunpla. My plan is to use this compressor until it burns up (reviews say it will). http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TO578Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I feel you. I just suggested them to another user, but you should check out these. They come with a panel lining marker, and the metallic ones are great for accents and the like.

It's not necessarily beefy, but what about the Gran-Daddy gundam himself? RX-78-2 http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-RX-78-2-Action/dp/B00CRSXK4Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417067802&sr=8-2&keywords=Gundam+MG

Or try the Sandrock http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Gundam-Sandrock-Master-Grade/dp/B005ED3PAU/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1417067871&sr=8-24&keywords=Gundam+MG

Good luck in choosing your kit!

The helmet not connecting is a common issue, had it on mine and some reviewers pointed it out too.

The way i prefer to panel line is with a regular, sharpened pencil. Just make sure that it stays shark throughout the process. Don't try to use fine point sharpies, despite the name they're entirely too thick.

The RG strike rogue is an incredibly limited kit, sold at Gunpla Expo. Aftermarket prices are the usual, scalper prices. Expect to pay $90 if you really want the RG. There are other versions of it, though. (HG, MG.)

The normal strike also has HG, MG, RG. These show the Aile Strike, sure, but i'm pretty sure that the Aile pack is detachable.

WIP https://imgur.com/gallery/Z8agx as promised. I'm not finished yet. I still need to complete the panel lining and add on a coat of future.

It's not -too- expensive to get into, but it is a bit of up front investment, as you need something for ventillation(search amazon for spray booths or you can look up how to slap one together with a box fan(I may do this at some point to get more space and get more cfm through the filter). I went wit a slightly more expensive kit that came with 3 brushes(so I could horse around and see which I preferred): https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Professional-Airbrushing/dp/B006HJCP8S/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503100981&sr=8-7&keywords=masters+compressor+airbrush but you can save ~$10 and go with https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503100981&sr=8-4&keywords=masters+compressor+airbrush

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-RX-78-2-Action/dp/B00CRSXK4Q

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-Master-Action/dp/B002BRUGI6/ref=sr_1_5?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1485290673&sr=1-5&keywords=master+grade+gundams

these are just my personals as they are fairly light weight in terms of armor and weapons but they do great. i especially recommend the 3.0 but its abit fragile but it poses, articulates and has alot of movies pieces.

Make sure you buy a hose if you buy a compressor without one (eg. if you buy used).

You will want to buy a respirator.

You can also jump-start his accessories list by including some cleaning supplies (spray-out pot, airbrush cleaner), as well as some paints/primer/topcoat (tamiya, mr color, vallejo, alclad ii, etc.).

I believe this can all be done with a budget of 300$ (assuming US). At this point, he could start spraying that day if he wanted.

EDIT: I use this Master Airbrush Compressor and the Iwata HP-CS airbrush. I've been happy with them so far, but I do wish I spent a little more on a compressor with a tank (as /u/7x13 recommends).

Is this stuff pretty good to use if I want a matte coat? Also, if there are parts I want shiny and parts I want matte, do I just have to break out the painter's tape?

Great panel lining work! I'm jealous! It's interesting to see that you opted not to use some of the stickers (like around the toes). Good use of dynamic posing as well.

Very few (if at all any) nubs, but the one on the top of the cannon sticks out to me. Have you considered using thin cement to "melt" the plastic and bond it all together? It works wonders without needing to get messy like you do with putty.

In case you need some, Tamiya makes them: http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement/dp/B000BMYWYC

In that case, have you tried using a file? Something like these: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-America-Basic-File-TAM74046/dp/B000BMUONA

I generally only use the one on top in the image. It's flat on one side and rounded on the other. Depending on the nub location I'll use either side, flat if there's a larger piece of nub then switch to the rounded side as I get closer to the part. I find the rounded part helps to avoid filing away the part itself as you get closer to it. The tapered end is good for tougher to get to places.

I've used the fully rounded one once and the big squared off flat one I almost never use. I find I end up scratching the part with it.

Tamyia makes a good primer in rattlecan and handbrush; while you're there, pick up some ultra thin cement - it's awesome for seam fusing.

Spend a little more and get the Master Airbrush TC-20T. It'll be worth it in the long run.

He Iwata NEO is a good Airbrush to start with, not only that many craft and hobby stores have replacement parts readily available for them which is pretty convenient.

Something like this is good to start with. If you like the hobby, you can always get better, more expensive tools from there: https://www.amazon.com/Rustark-Gundam-Building-Repairing-Fixing/dp/B071LB1T5D/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1541540564&sr=8-20&keywords=hobby+tool+set

I'm pretty new with Gunpla and I'm planning on getting some more kits soon, and I was wondering if this little bundle of tools would be a good investment.

https://www.amazon.com/Rustark-Gundam-Building-Repairing-Fixing/dp/B071LB1T5D/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537979135&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=model+kit+nippers&dpPl=1&dpID=51KtR2rfa9L&ref=plSrch

I don't have any of these tools and I don't have much money to spend on them. This is the first time I've seen this pop up on Amazon, so I figured I should ask here before I did anything else.

So i just got back from Asia and got a haul of HG and one RG and MG. I'm just getting back into Gunpla after a 10~year hiatus, and want to take a step up in to beginner level painting/panel lining/etc instead of just straight builds.

Some 1/144s I got that I want to start working on:
HGBF X-1 FullCloth (the one Lucas used in BFT)
V2 AB
HG Wing0
HGBF Wing Honoo? (Its a red.... Wing gundam?)
HD X Divider

I dont know the first thing about painting, and have watched some tutorials here and on youtube.

1. Will the Gundam Colour markers be enough for beginner level of painting and cover most generic colours? I do have painting brushes/trays from my wife's painting tools.
   
   Gundam Marker basic set
   
   Gundam Marker Metallic
   
   
2. I also brought a... thickish? panel line marker instead of a fine tip one. I think its GM301/302 or something. Lets just say i made a mess trying to panel line a SD (Gundam Base limited Musha Godmaru if that matters? ver Clear colour). Is this not used for panel lining? I bought this with recommendation from the staff at Tokyo Gundam Base (using Google Translate...)
   
   
3. I randomly bought a Gloss spray from a shop in Akihabara? I believe that is branded Mr.Hobby? Should it be used because i paint/panel line? I've seen some say before but some also after? or should a gloss coat be done with paint instead of spray?
   
   
4. I browsed around the web and see a "add-on" for HG V2 with the Wings of light effect, but can't seem to find it anywhere? Is there a way I can purchase this? I live in Canada Toronto if that matters.
   
   Thanks in advance for the random questions.

So this was my first gunpla! I got impatient waiting for my gundam markers to come in (which are taking forever!) so i decided to try my hand at lining and using the decals. I wanted to put one i cared a little less about before i put together my SD Freedom Gundam. I was thinking about doing Freedom with some orange instead of blue (maybe), but wasn't sure how to do a metallic-ish orange without an airbrush :P

1. Yes all modern (post 2,000's) Gunpla are snap-fit.
   
2. You can get him a kit like this which includes all of the basic tools needed. Can also throw in panel line markers as a plus.
   
3. All preference really. The HGUC Gundam RX78 Revive, HGBF Try Burning Gundam and the all mighty MG Ball Ver ka are some of the highly rated kits for beginners.

Hey guys, I'm looking to build my first serious Gunpla here soon (built a bunch when I was a kid) and I want to finish it with a top coat. I've found this item from Mr. Topcoat, which seems good, but I was wondering if there are similar options in larger quantities or for better prices?

You can get a scriber to make panel lines. It takes patience and a steady hand, but very doable. People use label tape to help provide solid lines to follow.

I got this guy: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Scriber-II-Tools-Tamiya/dp/B002KKBVTC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398719674&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+scriber+ii

I scribed the first couple of pieces today, definitely a skill to be learned! But I'll keep the WIPs coming! :D

I just searched on youtube for guides on eliminating seam lines, not sure who exactly but all the big youtube personalities pretty much have tutorials I believe.

So, I saved up some money and have a break from school finally coming up. I see that alot of the badgers are decently priced (i think im going to stay away from the iwata as they are generally over 100). But is there a certain badger that you recommend? the one you originally linked seems like a good one, but is there any details with these other ones that you may have dealt with?

1)

2)

3)

[4)](http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-200-10-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B003970D3U/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1456908816&sr=8-31&keywords=gravity+feed+airbrush
)

5)

Im sorry for sending a bunch of links, but i'd thought id ask and see what you may say :D

Thanks!

Literally metallic gundam markers haha

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539539201&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gundam+markers&dpPl=1&dpID=51CMzZ7y7VL&ref=plSrch

Theres a link to them!

Got one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038D38AA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It kinda sucks. It has to run constantly even for light painting on Gundams. Also I had to add a fan cause I could smell plastic on it melting after long sessions. Tho it has been running solid for years. I've even forgotten it on many times and its still kicking. Might be overkill, I think it goes to like 60psi, I normally use 20-25.


Happy painting

Buying an airbrush is kind of like buying a guitar. If you buy a super cheap one it's difficult to get any good results out of it and it can put you off for life. So invest a little bit would be my advice.

I can personally recommend the following.

Airbrush: iwata hp-cs - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Eclipse-0-35mm-Action-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B000BQKFAI

Compressor: - https://www.amazon.co.uk/ABEST-Professional-Compressor-Multi-Purpose-Airbrushing/dp/B01I2ZUKYU/ref=sr_1_1?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1538751820&sr=1-1&keywords=airbrush+compressor

The Compressor comes with a cheap airbrush so if you want to try with a cheap one go ahead, but you will want to upgrade sooner or later and that Iwata HP-CS will last a life time if you look after it.

This is also a must - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00RVZG4X4/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00RVZG4X4&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_p=8e5be0e3-b258-4b06-8b6e-695b24f935a4&pf_rd_r=4PP45CTWFKT5WD7KR20K&pd_rd_wg=pFBRH&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=j5dUp&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=d08662fa-c8af-11e8-a4e7-5f4df7c134b5

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the absolute cheapest route, and safest for paint compatability, is Pledge (aka Future Floor Polish). https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1504883161&sr=8-1&keywords=future+floor+polish

It is super tough, doesn't yellow, and will not react poorly with any type of paint. Oh, and you can brush or spray it on.

I must had posted in the wrong section.

I did some research on gunpla before I got ready to invest into it.

So I was wondering what airbrush should I pick up as a beginner.
I'm looking to use these airbrush for everything and finer detailing on models.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BROVIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451755063&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=badger+20+20&dpPl=1&dpID=31BZaLebDGL&ref=plSrch

The iwata eclipse is a recurring brand I've seen on bunch of blogs and seems to be the most popular

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQKFAI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451755023&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=iwata+eclipse&dpPl=1&dpID=41EIKj727OL&ref=plSrch

So which one should I buy? Can anyone recommend any of these?

Last at least the air compressor and other parts.
I've also seen this recommended on one blog:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AQK78/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Apparently it's better then a hobby's air compressor cause of the constant air flow you will get?
I was wondering what kind of hose and connectors I would need for either the badger or iwata if I picked up the air compressor.

Sorry for any spelling or grammar mistakes in advance as I'm typing on my phone.

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Sazabi-Version-Model/dp/B00EOEBG2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417304074&sr=8-1&keywords=sazabi+ver+ka

Here you go :D well it's not really a store but better than nothin :D

The HG Perfect Strike might take a little longer because of the extra backpack and shoulder equipment but a standard HG usually takes me one day and by that i mean about 10 hours. Also the Strike that comes with the HG Perfect Strike kit is shit, get yourself the Newer HG Strike and attach the Perfect Striker gear to that.

I think these might be more of a challenge. Hope the links work. http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Sazabi-Version-Model/dp/B00EOEBG2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449005374&sr=8-1&keywords=sazabi+ver+ka http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Unicorn-Gundam-Ver-Ka-Master/dp/B005QKF860/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1449005374&sr=8-9&keywords=sazabi+ver+ka http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Sengoku-Astray-Gundam/dp/B00HD4ILWK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449005701&sr=8-2&keywords=Sengoku+Astray+Gundamhttp://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-Model-Astray/dp/B0042VJ018/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1449005374&sr=8-12&keywords=sazabi+ver+ka

Tamiya extra thin plastic cement my dude. Will literally weld the plastic back together, better than superglue for fixing clean breaks.

unfortunately i live in somewhat of a countryside and need everything shipped...

https://www.amazon.ca/Testors-Spray-Lacquer-Clear-Coat/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525997806&sr=8-1&keywords=testor%27s+dullcote+spray

this looks a lot more reasonable but I've seen some people saying it melts your gunpla or something...? have you had any experience with this one?

edit:

nevermind, this looks like a very good alternative

https://www.amazon.ca/85080-Spray-TS80-Clear-100ml/dp/B000ZVO3YS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525998118&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+flat+clear

This would probably work wonders in removing those seam lines.
It's a cheap kit so thats the best kit to practice with a new technique.
https://www.amazon.ca/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement/dp/B000BMYWYC

Sure, maybe check out this one: Bandai Hobby Wing Gundam Zero Version EW 1/100 - Master Grade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0004EAFWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6KmCCb1YYNJAD

I think it would look really nice with a glossy look.

Pledge future floor finish -- works great as a gloss coat (as well as for tightening loose joints). Just load it into your airbrush and spray. I've always wondered.. how did the first person figure that out?

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-11182-Future-Acrylic-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=pd_sim_hpc_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0V7FEZ3QPJY6C4AH1R4S

This is Topcoat (cost less than this like 10USD) it makes the plastic less glossy ( makes it look way better without having to paint) also protects the plastic and panel linings

MG Sazabi is a beast of a kit, and it's just barely under $100 on Amazon at the moment.

Any version of the Unicorn Gundam is a good pick, though I'm not sure on Prime availability.

HG Kshatriya with Prime is ~$60.

Maybe a variation on the Sinanju? Stein, Ver. Ka, or Animation Color

Thanks for the info!

So now I'm look at the Iwata Revolution and TC-40T. Do you have any other recommendations for tanked compressors? How do you refill the airtank?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ACD4013XBS5C9&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WBT7PTW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&psc=1

I personally recommend Tamiya's clear coats, as they spray thin and cure fast.

I haven't used it myself so I can't recommend on experience, but Mr. Hobby is another well-liked brand for clear coats.

Don't be sorry man. I'm feeling just like you. It had been years since I had build the 1/144 models I got from toys r us as a kid.

it's the master grade wing zero kit. I got it from a local store but I've seen it on Amazon and Gundam USA store.

Usa Gundam store :
https://www.usagundamstore.com/products/bandai-hobby-wing-gundam-zero-version-ew-1-100-master-grade

Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Wing-Gundam-Version/dp/B0004EAFWK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=master+grade+wing+zero&qid=1575140321&sr=8-1

I really want get into airbrushing my pieces, I wanted to know how consistent this compressor is...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038D38AA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_xmHjzb3JYF8CN

I'm not looking to break the bank, but I keep seeing mixed reviews with Master compressors.

Thanks

Honestly... at face value the kit looks okay but it probably comes with a lot of cheap crap you might not care about. I saw this in the similar section and I reckon that's enough if you wanna save a few more bucks and are keen on a set.

But if you're already willing to spend $20-30 then you can get what I suggested within that budget along with the knife you linked to (this and this, there's a few sellers for each you can get via Prime). That and some sandpaper from your hardware store and you'll be good to go dude.

Ultimately don't worry too much about the tools. You can make do with just sandpaper, a hobby knife and a crap pair of wire cutters and still do fine. Hell, that's all I had when I was a kid lol :P

I suggest that you use a plastic cement to glue in the parts. That's why I do with accidents like this. Plastic Cement is pretty solid as an adhesive too. Here's what I suggest that you get: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement/dp/B000BMYWYC

They look good. Well done. If I could suggest something, give these a go for the next kit

This is what I got. They shake like paint pens do, so I figured they were the same.

Thank you.

What is the purpose of the yellow, red and blue pens if you are just going to use the grey, black and brown ones?

If you want markers for panel lining, I posted in another thread - these are all you'll probably ever need: http://www.amazon.com/Triplus-Fineliner-Pens-Metal-Assorted/dp/B0007OEE7E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416514362&sr=8-1&keywords=staedtler+triplus+fineliner

They clean up wonderfully. A Q-tip dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol will swipe off any pigment that shouldn't be somewhere.

I've used nothing but Alclad flat and matte topcoat, but if you don't have an airbrush, Testor's Dullcote is an industry standard: http://www.amazon.com/Testors-Aerosol-Enamel-3oz-Dullcote-Lacquer/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416514426&sr=8-1&keywords=testors+dullcote

I reccomended cool gunplas that familiar like this

Not sure where your are looking to find them 'too expensive'.

Pin Vise

Tamiya Basic File Set

Tamiya Plastic Scriber II

Those are cheap and or par the course for finding them elsewhere. I don't think going with used tools is a good idea when you can get them new for very reasonable prices on amazon.

I use Master Airbrush stuff. I never used the super expensive airbrushes or whatever, and I don't plan on doing so when i can get a everything I need for a complete airbrushing solution for the price of just one airbrush.

I currently use this: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Professional-Airbrushing/dp/B006HJCP8S/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1478092330&sr=8-9&keywords=airbrush

However I wish I had gotten one with an airtank and not just a compressor, as the compressor is always running when I'm actually brushing.

I would recommend going with this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017640RK/ref=pd_sbs_201_3?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0017640RK&pd_rd_r=CS5PGKKXM5455B94V0DA&pd_rd_w=LpOU8&pd_rd_wg=rukUc&psc=1&refRID=CS5PGKKXM5455B94V0DA

It's the same as I am currently using, but comes with an airtank (And that's the lowest price I've seen for it).

If that is a little steep to jump in with, I started with this months ago:

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-MAS-KIT-VC16-B22-Compressor/dp/B00BF0MW9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478092330&sr=8-1&keywords=airbrush

And it has everything you need (minus paint) to get started, It's a great kit to get started, but the lack of a PSI gauge will limit you fairly quickly. And if you upgrade, the airbrush can still be kept moving forward.

Finally got a useful "spam" email from Amazon, here are some of the kits that appear to be on sale.

MG Sandrock - $42.64

MG Heavyarms - $42.40

MG Deathscythe Hell - $48.90

MG Wing Zero Custom - $43.66

MG Shenlong - $41.49

MG Deathscythe - $41.79

MG Wing Ver.Ka - $47.95

MG Wing - $44.29

MG Buster - $47.50

MG Nu Ver.Ka - $72.07

Thanks for the advice! I'm planning on getting this set in particular. https://www.amazon.com/Rustark-Gundam-Building-Repairing-Fixing/dp/B071LB1T5D/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=gunpla+clippers&qid=1568147591&s=toys-and-games&sr=1-3

I got this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0004EAFWK/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

and this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N149M/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

my two favorites 15 years ago

Hey everyone!

I'm as new as it gets. So, I made a shopping list after doing some research on everything that I think I need to start. I'll place the links to all the items in the lines below. Everything is on Amazon because... well why not?

Gundam

Glue

Marker

Tweezers

Knife

Cutters

Mat

More Markers!

*Krylon Matte Finish

Am I missing anything?

> How would I make the Primer smoother without sanding and just out of the Airbrush? Like those Mr. Surfacer or near their quality

You're not. Hobby paints are made using much finer pigment that gives it that smooth finish. That's why they cost more money. If they didn't have an advantage over $1 spray cans no one would buy them. Straining might help, but it's never going to be as smooth as the expensive hobby primers.

>How would I make the Gloss Coat more glossier?*

If you are looking for a cheap gloss coat buy some Future Floor Polish. You can spray it straight out of the airbrush or thin it with rubbing alcohol. I don't know of a way to make an existing paint glossier. Maybe try buffing afterwards?

Thank you, which markers should I pick up? these?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009AFN0S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A9Q1SRRTDFE7O

If I were to panel line via Gundam Marker, is a topcoat necessary?

Also, assuming the two don't overlap, can I panel line and apply decals/waterslides/etc?

And in that case, would this do? Or is a glossy topcoat more recommended if only doing one topcoat layer?

If I remember it right, ver. EW kits are Katoki's redesigns based on Endless Waltz manga, not the OVA/movie. I guess they're very close to original anime designs there.

EW movie versions usually have 'Custom' or 'Kai' suffix.

Testors Spray Lacquer 3oz, Clear Coat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0w51Cb1S127KM

I luckily have a local shop that's a bit cheaper than this but this is good stuff.

For the gundam that he likes, depending on your budget...

HG Wing Zero (~$30):
http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Endless-Gundam-Custom/dp/B0006N148I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407976011

MG Wing Zero (~$50): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0004EAFWK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=26F7AFGMYHONY&coliid=I19JHH8DW71UF9

PG Wing Zero (~$170):
http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Gundam-Custom-Perfect-Grade/dp/B0009GVE7S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407976011

Note that the PG is considered one of the worst perfect grades, I'd personally go with the Master Grade if you plan on getting him a kit rather than just tools/accessories.

Ok so is this an enamell or a lacquer it says both on the page? And will this make gundam panel markers run?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FF6DN4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I see two different Iwata Eclipse listed on Amazon with a price difference of $5? Whats the difference and which one should I get?

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https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Eclipse-Hp-Cs-W-Airhose/dp/B00695CY54/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540928163&sr=8-2&keywords=iwata+eclipse&dpID=51odG-D4KWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

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and

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https://www.amazon.com/d/Airbrush-Materials/Iwata-Medea-Eclipse-Action-Airbrush-Gravity/B000BQKFAI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540928163&sr=8-3&keywords=iwata+eclipse

A general pack like this, is a good starting point. If at some point you need a color outside of that set, try searching for an apporpriate color through hobbywave, or robot4less.

http://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Markers/dp/B0009AFN0S/ref=cm_lmf_tit_6


You can also use one of these for panel lining:

http://www.amazon.com/Gundam-GM01-Black-Fine-Line/dp/B0027ORJ10/ref=pd_sim_t_4

Might this be something like you were talking about?

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Markers/dp/B0009AFN0S

I bought the set of gundam markers in the link below. However, when I tried to apply the gray, the gray looked darker than the gray from the runner. I smeared it to give it a feather effect but it was still too dark to be the same color. Am I suppose to let it dry first and then it would be the same shade of gray?

Also, this shade of gray of course only works of the darker one. What color is the one from the legs? Can't be th white one.... can it?

Lastly, is there a marker for epyon's color scheme if I want to continue with this method for epyon?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009AFN0S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I plan on painting the kit, I cut every pieces out so that I can paint them all at once. However, I organize pieces into sections - L/R legs, L/R arms and so on. When I paint, each section goes on their on tray to prevent confusion. I have been building long enough that, even if I mix the parts together, I should be able to find what I need.


I try not to mix PG parts though. That's like finding that one piece you need in a pile of Lego.

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>cheap clippers to cut from the runner and then to try and cut closer to the part.

That's the cause of your problem. You should be using a sharp nipper and cut further away to the piece, then shave it down with a very sharp hobby knife or, if the gate is thin enough, cut against the piece with your nipper.

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It is possible to polish the part with sanding only, however, it will take a lot of time and quite a bit of sand papers. Here is how I often hide my sanding

• Cover it with Real Touch Markers or Gundam Markersand wipe off excess with cotton swaps. This is not a 'pro' method, but it works like a charm and takes almost no time. I only do this to my unpainted kits.
  
  
  
• Primer/Surfacer. After I sand the entire piece with some fine grid sanding papers, I wash them to get all the residues. After the piece dry, I prime it with my Mr. Surfacer 1200, let it cure, then paint.
  
  

"Pledge" or "Future" refers to a certain brand of floor finish that (surprisingly) can be used as a gloss coat. This stuff.

For a guide:
http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide-top-coat-guide (it's a bit far down)

Amazon. There are kits that are sold with side cutters, files, nail polishers. Just about anything you could need for a build. https://www.amazon.com/Findfly-Gundam-Building-Repairing-Fixing/dp/B071LB1T5D/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527227248&sr=8-1&keywords=gunpla+tool+kit

Yea i saw this under the recommendation with the tamiya nippers. Thought it might be a good buy, still undecided and processing all the input.

http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-300074046-Basic-File-Set/dp/B000BMUONA/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HVB95284PC6SJSVYT0Y

I just built my RG Zeta and you couldn't be more right about parts falling off cause of a light breeze. I glued the skirts, vets, and even the chest frame to the gray part that moves the chest up and down just to make it bearable. If you can find it, I'd recommend getting this glue here cause it won't melt the plastic to where it's obvious.

Tamiya 87038 Extra Thin Cement Glue Fine Tip 40ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BMYWYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sc5Fzb0CHHSS1

would this be a good flat top coat?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FF6DN4/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_4_w

Wing Zero Custom at about 40$ on Amazon right now http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Wing-Gundam-Version/dp/B0004EAFWK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376679847&sr=8-1&keywords=wing+zero+custom

I've heard that Pledge is a good gloss coat but I'm not sure what I should be buying in the uk.
Is this the right stuff https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Klear-Multi-Surface-Wax/dp/B008HFVO32/
Or should I get this which costs quite a bit more https://www.amazon.co.uk/27OZ-FUTURE-FLOOR-FINISH-Kitchen/dp/B000ARPH4C/

Here's the basic set that is associated to the classic Gundam colors. There are many more sets that you can buy if you are willing to search around for them.

Future floor finish.

If it works on figures, it probably works on gunpla.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1AKT0EVAUPPAX

This right here is what I'm using. It doesn't say future on the bottle but it's the exact same formula, just reskinned. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I can't find any information on this pledge on the swammymodels future guide. Is this the same as the 2015 formula of the multi surface finish? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ARPH4C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1AKT0EVAUPPAX&psc=1

I ordered this a couple days ago https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ARPH4C/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1. According to one of the answered questions, this is the same product, just renamed yet again.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pledge-Future-Surface-Protect-Restore/dp/B000ARPH4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509921459&sr=8-1&keywords=pledge+floor+care+finish

I was looking at a set of files from Tamiya. Would this be a good set as apposed to sand paper?

Is this the set you're referring to? https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-300074046-Basic-File-Set/dp/B000BMUONA/

Give tamiya a shot
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BMUONA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p1o-Ab8R31PV5

Assuming you are from the US: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000BMYWYC/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement/dp/B000BMYWYC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538196687&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+glue

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