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I'm a professional mechanical engineer and a Certified Energy Auditor per the AEE.

Here's a couple things I did for my house that helped. They might help you.

Weatherize the garage: Add a floor threshold to the garage. Best done in the summer. Replace the weather seal on the top and sides. Replace the garage door threshold. All Amazon links. Measure your door and get the correct dimensions. I just linked to general items.

Weatherize your outlets and light switches: All holes through the wall allow tempered air to leak out. (nice warm air in the winter, nice cool air in the summer). With a flathead screwdriver, you can add gasket seals to all of your switches and outlets to reduce air leakage.

Weatherize doors and windows: If there are doors and windows that you don't use often, or don't use for a season, seal them off. If you use a door more frequently, there's lots of draft dodgers to help seal the door. Growing up, if it got super cold, we'd take a spare down comforter and nail it to the wall, totally covering the door.

As far as thermostats go, changing out the thermostat to a wifi thermostat and/or a programmable thermostat will go a long ways towards energy savings. Nest is definitely the best thermostat out there, but I recognize that it's the most expensive. In my opinion, the Nest is the best one because it has the best developed home/away sensors, has a clean and slick easy-to-use app (even for 8 thermostats like you'd have), and easiest to use scheduler. Don't change just one thermostat. Change all of them. At the very least, change the thermostat to a programmable one.

In general, it would help to go through the weatherproofing page of Amazon and buy and install anything that applies to your home and apartment.

As far as capital equipment, replacing boilers with condensing boilers can help, but remember that condensing boilers provide the most savings at the temperature extremes. during shoulder seasons. Consult a local professional mechanical engineer to determine if they will really benefit your location.

edit: had a brain fart when i wrote this. condensing boilers provide the most savings at the shoulder seasons. take a place like Fairbanks, AK, which, aside from this winter, generally spends most of the winter at the design outdoor temperature of -40. a condensing boiler operating at the design limit doesn't provide any more savings than a "standard" 80% AFUE efficient boiler. just doing my part to avoid spreading misinformation on the internet.

You could do the bath fan idea but with a much more powerful fan. Something like this that vents from the top floor to the outside, in combination with some opened windows, would probably help quite a bit -- as long as there is cool (and not too humid for your tastes) night time air available, and you don't mind leaving windows open for hours. But it's kind of a hack, and if you could tweak your existing ducts to work better, that would be more ideal and wouldn't require messing with windows and whatnot every night.

buy this text book,
https://www.amazon.ca/Commercial-Refrigeration-Air-Conditioning-Technicians/dp/1428335269

very well written, it makes every thing in commercial refrigeration (grocery stores ) very easy to understand.

klein 8 inch 5/16, and 1/4 nut drivers, are great. really help get into tight spots on hvac units and refrigeration.

buy cheap hand tools to start, harbor freight or home depot or whatnot. you will set things down and forgot them, better to buy two and have a second one in your truck then to buy one expensive one and not be able to replace it. slowly replace these tools as they wear out or get lost with good german tool brands like wiha, wera, knipex.

yellow jacket is really good for everything refrigeration. if you need gauges or specific tools look to them.

if you work with someone else to start, every time you use a tool they have, go out and buy it for yourself.

You're welcome.

I had a thought - buy one of these anemometers and compare the airflow of your vents to those in your friends unit. If there is a significant difference, it can help highlight the issue.

This tool was how I discovered the airflow in my old house was messed up - my friends house literally had 100x the airflow from his registers and pretty much the same system and layout. Read the manual and pay attention to the little x10 and x100 indicators when you do this.

By "ragged out" do you mean dated/worn? Luckily this is a 2013 unit. I actually went in to use some coil cleaner and the coils are in pretty good shape, which makes me feel better about my air quality overall. The previous owner generally kept the fan setting to low, and did have the 16x20x4 MERV-8 filter which has kept things spiffy.


What I might do is use a product like this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Pure-UV-Germicidal-photocatalytic-conditioning/dp/B07BPHD2LM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=uv-c+tio2+pco&qid=1565713923&s=gateway&sr=8-5


My rig is basically identical to image 3, so I might install it like that. And it would require no modifications, just the magnetic bracket on the removable front panel. The PCO might be a tad undersized for a 3300sqft house but I'd appreciate the peace of mind of sterilizing the dirtiest part of the air handler.


Kinda curious how reflective UV-C is with regards to surface coverage for areas not in direct line-of-sight.

These are the filters that I've been using thus far:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ESP8ZA/

Are those ok to use? They fit perfectly.

Ah yes, I do actually have an Air Purifier actually sitting directly in front of my furnace like this: http://i.imgur.com/LPElS3b.jpg And I have one in my living room.

The utility room / laundry room where the furnace there is located at, I plan on redoing the floor immediately after getting the new furnace installed, so don't worry about that. Heh.

Well I'm guessing you are probably going to learn about residential systems first. Easy to learn. I learned out of this book.http://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Conditioning-Technology-Bill-Whitman/dp/1111644470/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418598491&sr=8-1&keywords=air+conditioning+textbook
The instructor will have his own choice of book though....First things you learn are principles of pressure and temperature, and then the basic refrigeration cycle, and then basic electricity...I would say getting a head start is great but the on hands with the teacher is really going to be what sticks with you....Some of the guys in this sub might agree that after you have read or been taught a little bit about it, it will stick better when you do it yourself

Depends on your confidence level. Cleaning the furnace and reachable ductwork with a shop vac will save you money and is not very difficult.

Also, if your comfortable and careful, you can try getting some of this, Nu-Calgon Foam cleaner, follow the instructions, and carefully apply, while being very very carefull to not bend any of the fins.

But number one priority for you should be to measure your filter rack with a tape measure, and buy proper fitting filters. All of this can be avoided with just a little bit of routine maintenance.

Thank you!

So it's looking like I'll be following something like this video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BgDseEF-4OY

After purchasing something like this : http://www.amazon.com/LockState-Connect-LS-24VAC-Adaptor-LS-90i/dp/B0071IWJ7G

Then, I'll plug one wire into C, and the other into Rc!

Relocating the filter should be part of the job but also cleaning your coils should partially help fix the issue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DM8KQ3I/

Buy enough cans to get free shipping (if you don't have prime)

Get a dish brush spread evenly without bending the fins and then try removing the clumps before they clog your drain

3 tonnes (36,000 BTU/h) should be sufficient for your space. You can find plenty of mini split options, even multi zones, that allow outdoor units to be mounted on walls or balconies.

​

For good quality and price I would recommend something like this: https://www.amazon.com/COOPER-HUNTER-Mini-Split-Conditioner/dp/B07GC8Y3T9

LOTS of mini-splits for less than $1k. Have installed a few of the Pioneer units with great success. I have the tools and some experience, so I suggest if you DIY, let a professional hook up the copper lines, vacuum the lines, and turn it up. Typically about $150. If you buy one of the name-brands and get a full install you are looking at $2-3K.

Here is a one-ton unit that given your description of the space, should do the trick.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DVW6G42/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_QI4rDbTG7B204

In that case I think you're going to be paying some big bills in the winter time. I would look at sealing up openings, and keep the thermostat low. Wear jackets indoors and get a nice warm blanket :)

We've used this stuff over our drafty windows and saved quite a bit on our power bill.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI

Regarding whether the system was properly installed, you can buy yourself one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Qwikcheck-2-Second-Acid-Test-Kit/dp/B00CD70Z12

And watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zY2GzCsxKJY

If there's acid in the system (possible/probable by the sounds of it?), there's your problem, and your proof that the techs aren't competent.

As far as proving whether they changed out the compressor, there should be a manufacture date encoded on the label. If it's after the date the system was installed, it was at least replaced once. The trouble is going to be reading the sticker on the compressor. You're looking for the smooth black cylinder about the size of a loaf of bread (compressor) down at the bottom of the big fan thing outside (condenser). You can try taking some pictures through the slots at the top and we can see if anyone can read/decode them. If you're handy, you can remove the screws holding the top/fan on and carefully move that aside to get a camera down there. If you do this, first pull the disconnect switch on the side of the house going to the condenser and be very careful not to damage the fins or wiring to the fan. An able-bodied helper is recommended to hold the top assembly while you reach in with the camera.

PS - Not a bad idea to ask any technician for the 'old parts' when getting any kind of work done (on your car, house, whatever). Just remember if you do that you also take responsibility for disposing of the old part. Depending on what it is and where you live you might have to pay someone to take it. In the case of an old compressor that shouldn't be a problem.

http://www.amazon.com/HONEYWELL-TL8230A1003-Thermostat-Electric-programmable/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449934976&sr=8-2&keywords=honeywell+line+thermostat

I have this one, works great - nice back light and programmable

I thought your prices on Testo 550s were high, but realized your were from Canada.

You could still hit up this website and see if they ship to Canada.
Testo 550 with hoses

Also I have this for Temp, wet bulb, & relative humidity. I love it
UEI DTH35

I'd recommend the Pioneer unit instead of the Mr. Cool one. Also, I really like my controller for the mini split, so if you're willing to spend a little extra, then get this as well - https://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Programmable-Conditioner-Controller-Compatible/dp/B00P2KP0MQ

> Also, be aware that if you use that transmitter you have an accuracy of +/- 0.1 psi which doesn't meet your original requirements.

if you look at this chart [http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Product/Pressure/DifferentialPressure/Transmitters/SeriesDM-2000], I will be selecting model number "DM-2003-LCD". It has range of 0"-0.5" of water. With 1% FS accuracy, it will give +/-0.005" of water accuracy. It is more than enough

>can i ask for a better description of what your attempting to accomplish?

This is for my final year project. I am trying to estimate the remaining life of an airplane filter. It is a rectangular filter with dimensions of 3" by 5". I have designed a housing to sandwich the filter in between. It is airtight and it has 2" dia intlets and outlets. Pressure drop condition given to us have been measured at a set inlet flow rate. Therefore, before I attempt to measure the pressure drop, I have to make sure the flow rate is correct. I am also thinking to put an anemometer at the circular inlet ,
and calculate the velocity at the cross section just before air goes into the filter.[https://www.amazon.ca/HOLDPEAK-866B-Digital-Anemometer-Temperature/dp/B00ZHKWCP4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518621498&sr=8-2&keywords=anemometer] However, I don't know if doing that would yield accurate results. As you mentioned pitot tube also has its own drawback, as it measures the velocity of very small section. You would need a grid of those to get an accurate velocity measurement. Our final design needs to be something like a kit, therefore easy to assembly and operate. Putting a grid of pitot tubes is not preferable. Therefore I am considering to use an anemometer. What do you think?

i'm looking at this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005XNNYMU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl

and:

http://www.amazon.com/Active-Air-720-Inline-8-Inch/dp/B002JQ4K1I/

would these be considered good quality? or do i need to spend roughly twice as much?

thanks for the info.

Yes. I think that your motor is a constant torque motor.

The replacement motor is very expensive. You might use model and serial number of your unit to look up the correct motor.

You might also see if you can find a motor shop and see if they can cross that to a cheaper motor.


Edit:

I found a cheaper motor that says it is a replacement for your motor here:

OEM Upgraded Carrier Bryant Payne 1/4 HP 230v Condenser Fan Motor HC39GE237 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MOHHLR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2v4mDbHWV047D

Look at the top of the page for cheaper motors.

Thanks. A electrician friend checked it out and looks like 240v pulling about 13 amps. Wired up with 2 wires currently, but he recommended this control and to adjust the way it's wired right now. https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-TL8230A1003-Line-Thermostat-Programmble/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483460790&sr=8-1&keywords=honeywell+line+voltage+thermostat

The systems we were installing on this project were all small, side discharge systems (18k btu). They look like mini-split condensers but they connect to a central system. They don't require a filter drier because they have one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Grams-Copper-Filter-Refrigeration-Welded/dp/B079T2NQ41 already factory installed. We've been installing them like this for years and never had any issues with humidity or unwanted contaminants.

I did that test (ua787?) right out of college, it's not an easy one. The science is based around refrigeration theory and the math gets quite challenging without a calculator. The mechanical aptitude is easy enough if you're familiar with the questions. I recommend picking up "Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Technology" and study at least the first few chapters. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.ca/Refrigeration-Conditioning-Technology-Bill-Whitman/dp/1111644470

I have a three zone heating system where one of the zones is going to work as the 'master'. Using relays and a 24vdc powersupply from a taco relay box when the master zone calls for heat it fires all three zones. The other two zones operate independently when they call for heat.

I want to hook up a wifi enabled switch in parallel with the 'master' thermostat to trip the relay that will fire all 3 zones. This is because we travel quite a bit during the winter and when we do we lower the heat in the house but then it takes a while for it to get comfortable again. The idea is with the wifi switch I can switch it on when I am an hour or so away and have it call for heat to warm the house up.

​

Would this work? https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Wireless-Compatible-Assistant-WIshioT/dp/B07C3GMRBP

Checking each of the vents airflow is step 1 of this process. Get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/HoldPeak-HP-866B-Portable-Measuring-Anemometer/dp/B00ZHKWCP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466132432&sr=8-1&keywords=HoldPeak+HP-866B

This little device tells you how hard the air pressure is coming out of the vent. Ideally, small rooms get low flow, and large rooms get higher airflow.

This should help you get adequate flow to each room.

Sounds like you are looking for a stat like this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016J2CYQ/ref=psdc_2054378011_t1_B002Z7EBBU

As I understand the Nest won't work with mini splits. Rather it's compatible with more centralized heating systems.

For your Daikin ductless heat pump, I'd recommend something like this controller - http://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Control-Conditioner-Smartphone-Anywhere/dp/B00P2KP0MQ

Sounds like you've diagnosed unbalanced airflow. First, follow the route that the air takes as it travels from the air handler out to the rooms, and between the floors. Have you ever seen a small handle that you don't know what it does? Some systems have dampers placed within the system, to adjust airflow during the seasons. If you have one or more, they may be in the wrong position, restricting to flow to upstairs.

You might want to buy one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/HoldPeak-HP-866B-Portable-Measuring-Anemometer/dp/B00ZHKWCP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466132432&sr=8-1&keywords=HoldPeak+HP-866B

It will help you even out the flow between vents, so that all rooms can share equally in what your system is capable of putting out.

> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MOHHLR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2v4mDbHWV047D

You are an incredible person!!

It is okay that the one you sent is 1/4HP, and the one I have is 1/5?

edit: are HC38GR239 and HC38GR237 cross compatible?

I really cannot express how appreciative I am of your help.

Go get yourself this book. Read.

You can find a free PDF file if you know where to look.

https://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Conditioning-Technology-Bill-Whitman/dp/1111644470

The thermostat is a Honeywell WiFi Thermostat (RTH6580WF)

The AC adapter was not made by Honeywell. I chose the LockState Connect LS-24VAC 24 Vac Adaptor. Here is a link to the product,
http://www.amazon.com/LockState-Connect-LS-24VAC-Adaptor-LS-90i/dp/B0071IWJ7G?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Thanks for your reply

Actually, check the fins on the evaporator coil behind the filter once it thaws. If a lot of them aren't straight, or if they're dirty, that would do it. Even if they don't look dirty, they still could be. It wouldn't hurt to clean them either way. I like this one fit small units like that https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Calgon-417175-Nu-Calgon-Evap/dp/B00DM8KQ3I

Low hanging fruit?? Put some shrink plastic on the windows.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481845952&sr=8-3&keywords=window+shrink+film+insulation

The tape may take off paint in the spring so tape where it will be easy to touch up.

This one is also worth checking out - http://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-WiFi-Control-Conditioner-mobile/dp/B00P2KP0MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449156978&sr=8-1&keywords=airpatrol+wifi

Get yourself that shrink plastic film to make an interior storm window. And get some weatherstripping for the door. Electricity is expensive heat and you don't want to waste it.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1415745224&sr=8-3&keywords=plastic+film+for+windows

this one might work for you - http://www.amazon.com/AirPatrol-Control-Conditioner-Smartphone-Anywhere/dp/B00P2KP0MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453203229&sr=8-1&keywords=airpatrol+wifi

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PMA90-Anemometer-Thermometer-Temperature/dp/B009TQ6ILQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407970259&sr=8-1&keywords=velometer