(Part 2) Best products from r/HomeImprovement

This is my typical copied and pasted answer which has evolved over the last year or two. We're finishing the obnoxious details on a full century old gut job that we did mostly ourselves and I've learned a ton. Anywhere you see Cat5, simply replace it with Cat6. I used 5 in some places because I had it lying around, but if you're gonna buy a couple thousand feet of Cat6 it won't be that much more. Also, ignore the non networking line items if you want.

• A secondary 5x18 thermostat wire to the second floor in case I want to do dual zone heating/cooling
  
• Wires for wireless access points on every floor and in every room you could possibly want them in. - - - Remember, you don't have to give them a plate but at least run them and take detailed notes/photos/videos of where they are.
  
• Multiple Cat5 (because I had it lying around), Cat6 and coax in all bedrooms and anywhere I thought I might need them. If they're there and you don't need them, all you have is a switch plate cover. If you don't have them, you have a solid multiple hours worth of frustrating work.
  
• Power lines, coax and cat6 for security cameras if you think you'd like to install them at some point.
  
• Power and control lines (I used 5/18g thermostat wire) for automated/motorized blinds. Again, you can hide these and use them later if you want.
  
• A centralized "home run" for all the wiring. All my network and coax lines converge on one place in the basement. Don't be stingy with the cable lengths either. Chances are you're buying Cat6 in 1000 foot spools. You'll have spare....
  
• If you're into home automation at all you might look into running low voltage lines or network lines to various places.
  
  Just for your home run network cabinet:
  
  
• Network Switch
  
• Network attached storage or two
  
• Home control module
  
• PC or two (I currently have 3 wired)
  
• DVR for security camera system
  -Sonos sound bridge
  
• Ethernet ready IR repeaters (Harmony Elite)
  
• TV DVR/Network Box
  
• Smart TV (assume one for each room)
  
• XBox/Ps4/Wii
  
• Chromecast/Chromecast Music
  
• Wireless Access points
  
• Home Theater A/V receiver
  
• Media server
  
  ....and that's just for the wiring. As far as the construction is concerned:
  
  
• Insulate between key interior walls and ceilings. Both of our bathrooms have fiberglass insulation inside them and I put the thick stuff in the ceiling of the livingroom as it's right above our bedroom. It makes a big difference in sound transfer. If you're worried about running future wiring, as many others have already said, just run conduit. Conduit and future proofing are cheap compared to the time it takes to snake a wire through an insulation filled wall.
  
  
• The concept of walls and doorways is fluid. Don't like a wall there? Throw up a header and knock it down. Want to move a doorway, frame it and move it. Framing is easy. The devil is in the details.
  
  
• Zoned HVAC. I'm not as enamored with mini split systems as some are. The efficiency of central heating/cooling is such that a properly designed system will offer as much efficiency and almost as much functionality with zoning.
  
  
• Air seal. I went overboard on insulation in some places but until I got down to business and foamed/caulked all the right joints our house was pretty drafty.
  
  
• You can never have too many outlets. I added more than I thought I'd need and I wish I had more.
  
  
• Run and cap a natural gas line to your BBQ area so you don't have to worry about propane tanks. Even if your new fangled gas oven won't work without electricity a grill just needs a piezo igniter and you're cookin.
  
  
• If you have the space/$$ get a natural gas backup generator. They're not all that expensive (compared to a fridge and freezer full of food even) and take little maintenance. Especially necessary if you're in an earthquake/tornado/ice prone area.
  
  
• Heated floors in the kitchen and bathroom. Most systems come with timers and schedules just like a thermostat. Many people spend multiple hours a day in the kitchen and there's nothing quite like a pre-heated bathroom floor first thing in the morning.
  
  
• If you're redoing yard completely, consider where you'd like to have extra hose lines. Trenching with a trencher is easy and might keep you from having hoses all over the lawn.
  
  
• Same goes for low voltage lines for landscaping lights. I know most of them are solar these days, but with led lighting so cheap it won't hurt to run low voltage line through a conduit for lighting, security systems, automated watering systems, or whatever you want.
  
  
  
  I'm sure there's plenty more depending on the person/family.

Dropping this here just in case..

Obviously, actual soft close hinges are ideal, but we hope to redo our kitchen in the next few years, so I didn't want to go thru the hassle or cost of replacing all the current hinges. So I installed these instead: https://smile.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Cabinet-Compact-Adapter/dp/B00J9XB6BQ

They work much better than I expected.

Again, yes, hinges are far better. But these are super easy on time and money. Cheers.

Tech: Smart plugs / switches. I'm partial to Wemo and second to TP-Link. Could get a few plugs for under $100. Pair them up with logitech pops someday (the starter kit is $100 right there, I'm just mentioning it because the two work well together.

Universal fan controllers, I can't speak to any brand/style I could recommend. You would have to research that one, but something like this https://www.lowes.com/pl/Ceiling-fan-remote-controls-Ceiling-fan-parts-accessories-Ceiling-fans-accessories-Lighting-ceiling-fans/4294395598 I personally like the wall mount ones with a remote. So you can use the wall switch as normal and the remote as a bonus.

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Non Tech:

Easy off toilet seats. Ever take a seat off before? Years of poo under the seam. Something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/BEMIS-Lift-Off-Elongated-Closed-Front-Toilet-Seat-in-White-1500EC-000/100120881

Pair it up with a plunger that doesn't suck. IE buy an expensive one that won't get stuck and splash poo water all over your walls because you have the $10 cheap one from wally world.

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Garbage disposal. You can get a little badger for $100. But that's gonna end up being a DIY project to keep your $100 budget.

Soft-close cabinet door dampers. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Cabinet-Compact-Adapter/dp/B00J9XB6BQ Again, you're on your own to research a brand/style. But they sell them at big box stores too.

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Edit:

Bathroom fan timer switch or humidity based. Either get one with button for 10 20 30 whatever min run time, so you can let your bathroom vent humidity out after a shower. Or one that auto turns on at X% humidity. All sold in big box stores.

If you are driving alot of screws get a good driver with Torx or square bits. Phillips or flat head screws should be outlawed.

I have tons of 18 volt tools. But 90% of the time I use my 12 volt stuff. It is lighter and plenty strong enough for most all jobs I throw at it.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Electric-Tools-2598-22-Hammer/dp/B077ZXR2GN/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=milwaukee+m12+fuel&qid=1563798041&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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Get a good tool bag, To keep all your tools organized.

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DG5543-Inch-Tradesmans-Tool/dp/B001P30BO6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dewalt+tool+bag&qid=1563036747&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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This little screwdriver is my most used electrical tool.

It will take off a faceplate in seconds without scratching it.

https://www.amazon.com/Interchangeable-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-67100/dp/B003FC75YE/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=klien+screwdriver+fast&qid=1563037724&s=gateway&sr=8-7

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This works great also.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-9-IN-1-RATCHET-BIT-DRIVR/dp/B07N2XRJKN/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3S4QWUWTNOHH0&keywords=milwaukee+ratchet+screwdriver&qid=1563797885&s=gateway&sprefix=milwauke+ratchet+%2Caps%2C216&sr=8-5

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These work great as stud finders, not sure how they build your houses but in america we have 2x4 wooden studs behind our walls every 16-24". This is a strong magnet that finds the studs by finding the screws that attach the drywall to the wooden studs.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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If you are moving any water lines or doing any plumbing look in to Pex, It is very easy to do and you can same alot of plumbing costs.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Crimping-Crimper-Stainless-Clamps/dp/B019DPYQZM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=LGQIZBR2PEXY&keywords=pex+crimping+tool&qid=1563798123&s=gateway&sprefix=pex+crimp%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-4

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If you are moving your toilet, look in to a wall mount. They are very modern and save you a lot of room.

That sander was a beast and one of the best investments. That and the dust collection, which it worked great with.
Check for Powertec discs from Amazon... they fit, work great, and best of all...cheap!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EJAA6ZK

I think I may be able to help give you some 'tools' to figure out what's going on....

To start off - I'm going to assume you're in the US on a fairly modern electrical system. You're going to be on a 110 volt circuit with a 15 amp breaker. It could be 20 amps, but usually it's 15.

The first tool: Amps Volts = Watts. 110V 15W = 1,650 watts <-- That's how much power your circuit should be able to draw before it trips the breaker. Not everything you plug into wall says how many amps it pulls, it will say how many watts, so now you can translate between them, and all them all up, and see how much power you are actually drawing.

If you take a look at an LED lightbulb, it will say both how much light it outputs compared to a regular incandescent light bulb (usually 60-100 watts) and it will say how much power it draws (5-20 watts). For example, I just found a 100-watt equivalent light bulb that uses 14 watts. A light bulb pulling 14 watts on a 1,650 watt circuit pulls less than 1% of the total!! You could have 118 of those light bulbs on that circuit before it trips the breaker! Now, if you had a regular incandescent that pulls 100W instead, then you could only have 16 - that's a huge difference.

Second tool: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU

Go buy one of these. You plug it into the wall, and plug whatever you want to monitor into it, and it will tell you how many watts it uses. It can monitor things over time, so you can get an average of their usage.

Lastly... coffee makers are HUGE users of electricity. They typically pull 1000 watts when heating!!! That's nearly 10 amps - 2/3 of your total capacity!! It is not at all surprising that your breaker pops when you use it along with other stuff. Usually coffee pots are plugged into circuits in the kitchen with nothing else running at the same time. Your fridge is pulling ~150 watts when it's actually running, and 0 when it's not, and it will cycle on and off during the day.

Good luck!

> Luxe Bidet Neo 185

I thought that sounded familiar, but it didn't look quite right. Turns out I got the Neo 320, with hot and cold water.

After using it for a while, you get used just the cold water stream. But sometimes, going for a warmer wash is nice and pleasant. I've had it for nearly 2 years now, still glad I got it.

Looks like it's pretty well insulated already.

There's a device called a thermo-cube you can buy at many hardware stores, it's a thermostatically controlled outlet. Basically, anything you plug into it, will come on if the temperature reaches 35 degrees and turns off when the temperature reaches 45 degrees.

Perfect for a space heater in places like this, it minimizes the amount of time the heater will run. I use one of these in my well house in the winter along with a couple of 150W reptile heat lamps, haven't had a problem with freezing ever since I put it in.

I did this to my house a few months ago to three bedrooms, all three fans had one switch for power but in order to turn the fan on/off we had to pull the chain. I ended up adding a dual switch box and adding an additional switch and running 12/3 wire so I could adjust speed control. All of the fans had to be removed and I had to go up in the attic which is never fun and locate the wiring in the fan in blown in insulation. I had to also add junction boxes because the wiring to the fans was a mess. There was 3 different wires per fan going in. The fan is just on a regular switch now but I will eventually add these https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Single-Pole-PD-FSQN-WH-Assistant/dp/B07N1GXM38/ref=sr_1_4?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs4WZ5Lqr5AIVTvDACh2F6QFYEAAYAiAAEgKmt_D_BwE&hvadid=338638128383&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9022848&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=b&hvrand=2184929728076076276&hvtargid=kwd-584282680984&hydadcr=6949_9591722&keywords=lutron+caseta+fan+speed+control&qid=1567197826&s=gateway&sr=8-4

so that I can adjust speed on fan as well as control them with our iphones and have them turn off automatically in the mornings.

You mentioned he's going to stack the switch, so something like this? https://www.build.com/fanimation-wc2/s1631826?uid=3871881&source=gg-gba-pla_with_promotion_3871881!c1710655136!a69464684849!dc!ng&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9KXIo7ur5AIVwcDACh3b6AiAEAQYASABEgIdpfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I don't know if you're paying too much, depends what the cost of living is where you are. You could get another estimate and compare but don't always go with the cheaper guy because it's cheaper.

I installed this switch for my kitchen fan/light combo that only has one set of wires going to the switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MOIDA8

There is a receiver that goes up in the canopy of the fan, and the wall switch works like a wired remote control. As far as I understand, it is constantly passing power to the control module, then uses the neutral to send commands from the switch that the module interprets and does whatever you say. It has independent power and dimming/speed settings.

Unlike a remote, there aren't any batteries, it always works, and it looks like a normal switch and not like you just stuck your TV remote on the wall.

A few things to note about it:

1. It says it isn't LED compatible, but it actually works totally fine with them.
   
   
2. The newer version does NOT have the same module, and wont work when you only have one set of wires going to the fan.
   
   
3. Some fans aren't set up to be speed controlled by the switch. The Hampton Bay fan we installed wasn't, until I rewired it to bypass the built-in speed controller. I am not 100% convinced that it is good for it to be hooked up the way I did, but so far so good.

Lol sorry, I am not quite sure how to ask my question. Basically I am in an old house where adding a light switch / electricity source is not an option. I wondered if there are any workarounds to that (i.e. sounds like you guys have referenced battery-operated light fixtures? good to know). I would love to hang a chandelier from the ceiling. But without having a light switch, I wondered if this is even doable. Wasn't sure if something like this would work: https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K

I don’t have any great suggestions for fixing the doors, but as far as installing slow close hardware I like these:

Rok Hardware 25 Pack Soft Close Damper for Cabinet Doors / Compact / Soft Close Adapter / Hardware / Nickel / Hinge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_221-Bb03M09E0

I installed them probably 3 years ago and they still work great, for a fraction of the cost of replacing the hinges with soft close hinges.

1. You don't mount fans to light boxes. You mount them to fan braces like this. They are SUPER easy to install.
   
   
2. When you do this, install a wireless remote control or a basic wall switch with remote (I use these) or a crazy voice-activated one like this. You have to do this BEFORE you mount the fan to the ceiling.

The two things that jump out are the downspout on the right and the windows. It's a bit difficult to tell how the roof goes there, but it looks pretty tricky and then that downspout appears to dump water right on the tricky spot - all of the downspouts need short extensions to get the water away from the corners.

Also, where the end of the gutter is right up against the side of the house. Is the gutter cap well sealed? Does the siding run behind it or did they gutter first then cut the siding around the gutter?

The windows look nice with the wide flat white area around them, but what material is that? How is it flashed to the top of the lower window, how is the upper window flashed to it? It's really difficult to build out a detail like that and make it waterproof.

You'll know more if you can figure out how high up the leak is - yes, the water can very easily move down through the wall. A moisture meter is inexpensive. Read the sheetrock inside just above the baseboard where the water is worst. Read the wall up the side of the window trim on both windows. You may get a clue from that.

It's a bit more money, but you can get Flir 1 for your cell phone - iPhone linked, but there's an Android one too. Take a look at the walls from inside and the ceiling and the side walls of that section. The moisture alone should make for cold spots, but it might be especially obvious on a cold, rainy day. Good general contractors have both moisture meters and Flir 1. Any friend that's a fireman probably has access to a Flir camera. A good home inspector has these tools. I'd offer to help, but I can tell from the architecture that you live nowhere near me.

Please update us later.

So the ultimate splurge would be the toto neorest with elongated bowl. Alas, that’s too bougie for my budget I settle for the bidet attachment from amazon. This this super economical one is a greater starter bidet. The tushy brand is a little nicer option as well.

If you're just swapping out incandescent or CFL bulbs for LEDs in existing can lights, check out Great Eagle bulbs on Amazon. They sound odd, but they're very good. I went with them because I wanted uniform color and brightness and they've been great. Only one died in the first year, and I've installed several cases of them.

Another option is an LED insert that replaces the trim piece and bulb with an integrated LED assembly. I don't have a brand recommendation on those.

If you are going complete canless, flat-panel, I used these:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756VY88Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Brondell Bidet - Thinline SimpleSpa SS-150 | Fresh Water Spray | Non-Electric | Bidet Toilet Attachment in White with Self Cleaning Nozzle | SafeCore Internal Valve | Nozzle Guard | Easy to Install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075MMHQX7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_prN2BbKK399N6

Simple, sleek and super high quality parts from a reputable company. Old bidet which cost a little more lasted 3 months, got 2 of these and they’ve been going solid for 7 months.

We have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Brondell-Bidet-SimpleSpa-Non-Electric-Attachment/dp/B075MMHQX7/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=bidet&qid=1565981201&s=gateway&sr=8-4

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It's a cold-water-only one, but it works perfect, and is so much better.

Hit any particularly high spots of glue with a belt sander. No need for the cement if you are doing a wood floor as long as the subfloor is reasonably level. Use whatever underlayment system your flooring calls for, but its usually a felt paper or silicone vapor shield. The underlayment will take care of any minor imperfections in the floor.

Before you put down the flooring, buy a moisture meter and check the subfloor is dried out. The cheap ones are fine for this, you aren't really looking for a specific % you just want to measure every day or so and when the % stops going down you are good.

I have a couple Lutron Caseta wireless switches. They have a switch you hardwire in place of the existing one, and then you have the option to use a wireless remote. You can mount it on the wall like a normal switch, or it has a pedestal if you want to leave it on a table. If you invest in the Lutron "smart bridge" you can control them with a phone app as well.

edit:
Here's what I have. I like them:

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G

This is my unit. I like to have it a bit away from the wall. It blows out a lot of warm air and I use it to dry my hockey equipment. Works really well, I just wish I could set it up to drain automatically.

I personally be like the failsafe a physical switch provides. I've had those controls go haywire, or get damaged, or lost.

Plus I like having the option to control this or a future fan with something like this

Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, Single-Pole, PD-FSQN-WH, White, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1GXM38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_aWYzDbFFE4NYG

You bet. The good news is that TVs are getting so light these days that the mounts are getting smaller and smaller.

So if you do opt for an extension/swivel, many of them only require a single stud for mounting to.

Like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WYVBR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Lr6vzbHPC02RV

Much smaller footprint than your current bracket.

Cheers.

"Wiring a House" by Caldwell is incredibly useful for any electrical work at all. He goes over everything you need to know from 'This is how electricity works' to 'here is how to rewire your entire house to be above code and pass inspection'. Massive amounts of pictures, circuit diagrams with explanations etc. Just a great book and the standard for electrical DIY.


I rewired my entire 4 bedroom house with this as a reference and that included adding 8 or so circuits and rerouting all electrical for our major kitchen remodel.

+1 “for pros.”

I am taking on a diy rewriting project and found this book to be quite helpful.

https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-House-5th-Pros/dp/162710674X/

That said, I have a degree in electrical engineering, have taken a hands on electrical wiring class at the local community college, and I am still nervous about rewriting our house. It’s not the principles, but a knowledge of electrical codes and “how to do it right” that you might miss as a diy-er.

Right now I’m thinking of hiring someone to check over my work and to rely on the inspector as well. If others have any tips on how to do this safely, it would be much appreciated!

first, you should be aware of everything that is using power. Turn off or unplug everything you know of. Go see if the meter is still running. If it's still running, that's your mysterious drain, figure out what it is.

To find out what single item is a energy hog, hookup a kill-a-watt and take note of the readings around your house.

Some cities or utility companies offer free energy audits. See if you qualify.

edit: also check on your bill what plan you are on compared to your previous. It is not necessarily a fixed amount per kWh.

Ah ok, I have something similar then, just doesn't seem to work the greatest on BX wire.

http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2

In the basement? Something like this.

In the wood? This.

If your basement is constantly humid, plumb in a dehumidifier. However, in doing that, you may want to wait for it to stabilize and then re-acclimate the wood.

Yeah, sorry, no good news from me.

I used this for our bathroom fan. Max is 30 min.

Enerlites HET06A-White 1-5-10-15-20-30 Minutes Preset In-Wall Countdown Timer Switch, w Decorator Wall Plate, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB0ZJXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_wucvDb16G0QPJ

Tire of the kids leaving the fan on all day and night. Didn't want to heat or A.C. the outside all the time. Went in quite easily.

Yes this is for a TV mount, the good thing is I have an idea of how the studs are laid out, I just need to locate the middle at this point.


For reference, this is what I'm working with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WYVBR0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


In terms of the drill size, I'm using a 5/32" drill bit.

Unfortunately there is no all in one switch to control the fan and light at the same time but lutron makes a smart fan speed switch below

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1GXM38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v3VCDbBDH99Y1

Rex Cauldwell's book is quite thorough:

https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-House-5th-Pros/dp/162710674X

There are cheaper and simpler ones out there, but if you want an all inclusive, this one is very good.

If I'm reading it correctly, this one needs a hot and cold intake.

Thanks for your help by the way.

You can buy these now. Much easier to install and accomplishes the same goal (sorry for the long link). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D.u0Db0RP3NYH

In the spirit of LED related advice: replacing your ceiling fan bulbs with 60w LED equivalents makes a world of difference in lighting quality in the room. But so far the only candelabra LEDS I've found that don't have interference issues are the Philips bulbs. Best upgrade I did was to put Philips LEDs and the Lutron Maestro controller on all our fans. Separate control of lights and fan, and the Philips LEDs dim fairly well.

Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Fan Control and Dimmer Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MOIDA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K-cuyb0AP1JZN

Philips 458687 60W Equivalent Dimmable B12 Decorative Candle LED Light Bulb with Warm Glow Effect (4-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0191YKS0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_daduyb5K0AK1R

Note: I tried the LOHAS bulbs and their brightness and color temp choices are excellent, but horrible interference. Couldn't operate the Lutron switches if a LOHAS bulb was switched on. If you don't have any devices where interference might matter, check out the LOHAS bulbs.

Just installed one this weekend - got back from a trip to Korea and loved the fancy one in the hotel. Couldn't see spending thousands on the fancy Toto models, but the Brondell at https://www.amazon.com/Brondell-Bidet-SimpleSpa-Non-Electric-Attachment/dp/B075MMHQX7/ works just fine, and is, uh, bracing after the morning deposit.

It was a pain to install on my all-in-one fancy modern toilet, but if you're careful with the plumbing totally doable by an amateur plumber. If your toilet hookup is visible and exposed it should be really easy. $30 to try it out doesn't seem like a bad investment...

I've heard mixed reviews on the 'humidity sensor' activating switches. I'd rather go with a nice selectable timer switch, I use something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB0ZJXE/

No problem!

If you ever need help, feel free to PM if you'd like. I like fixing electrical problems :) Sometimes you need a toner tracer to find where a wire goes. These work by clipping the toner box to the bare wire, which injects a signal into the wire, and the tracer will beep like a metal detector over the wire it's clipped to. Not saying it's a necessary tool, but can be very handy.

Hi, thanks for chiming in.

Nothing huge. Likely between 40 and 55 inches. The mount is a VideoSecu ML531BE - that claims to support screens up to 88 lbs.

Most 40-55 inch screens I am seeing are around 35lbs, give or take 10lbs.

I figure by the time the next upgrade comes around, in 10ish years, the mountable portion of the tv will be next to nothing regardless of size.

Funny you mention that, I am going to be replacing the regular switch for the fan with this variable timer one

Best dehumidifier on the market

Frigidaire 70-Pint Dehumidifier with Effortless Humidity Control, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UWP07LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SwuLBbGGKZDYT

You also need this sensor. Keep the humidity
level between 35-45%

AcuRite 00613 Humidity Monitor with Indoor Thermometer, Digital Hygrometer and Humidity Gauge Indicator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013BKDO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xnzLBbM5HF5BH

Over 2000 kwh per month sounds way out of normal if you are not using electricity for heating or some huge A/C unit, even with electric stove and water heater. I got around 400 in a bit larger house, and have electric stove, water heater and air compressor running for wastewater treatment.

I know a similar case and it turned out to be a faulty/incorrectly installed water heater, that was heating up water and continuously letting it out through overflow pipe.

You could get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU and check your appliances one by one if you want to diy.

https://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/

$20, works great

This is the one that I have: https://www.amazon.com/Enerlites-HET06A-White-1-5-10-15-20-30-Countdown-Decorator/dp/B00IB0ZJXE/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=timer+switch&qid=1550149892&s=gateway&sr=8-6

It works great. The blue led's are fairly bright and would annoy me if my bathroom was attached to my bedroom.

I had a Soleus that I got from Menards and the pump quit on me in about 2 months. I threw it out and got this. Works great.

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408074214&sr=8-1&keywords=caseta

These come with one remote, but each remote can be programmed to control any number of dimmers. The dimmer works with regular screw in replacement dimmable led and CFL bulbs. Also, the dimmer does not need a neutral connection with replacing an existing switch very easy. ~$60 for a dimmer + remote kit and ~$12 for the remote.

Looks like surfactant bleed from high humidity following painting. Kilz it and repaint it.

You can get an inexpensive moisture meter to put your mind at ease.

I have this one and I'm very happy with it. I only recently found out you're not supposed to use extension cords with it (or any other dehumidifiers) so maybe keep that in mind.

>If switch B is off, then switch A can turn the lights on and off.

>If switch B is on, then switch A cannot turn off the lights. When you flick switch B (in either direction), the lights just blink for a second, but then immediately come back on.

How bizarre... I'm still trying to diagram this.

What if it's like this?

http://i.imgur.com/0yWJHQK.png

(B could also be a 3-way with one of the output nodes not connected to anything)

To diagnose, I would cut power and use a wire tracer like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_0 Same line of thinking but I think Lutron's is better.

This is close to the one we have, and we are super happy with it. I suppose if we re-did our bathroom, we would get something else, but I don't see this as being a "trial."

Actually, we have this one, and I think that temp control is key.

> https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K

YES, I think that's the one!

Yeah should do if it's something like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2

You might have to be literally touching the drywall though.

If you only care about not letting your garage freeze, the quickest and cheapest route is to get one of these guys and plug in a cheap ceramic heater. They're generally the safest option since nothing is glowing red hot.
https://www.amazon.com/Farm-Innovators-TC-3-Thermostatically-Controlled/dp/B0006U2HD2

Otherwise, if you get one like this, I doubt you'll have any worries or complaints:
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200578579_200578579
Gas is a bit cheaper to operate but with the usage levels you're talking about, it would take a long time to see an ROI on that after you factor in installation costs and hassle. Plus you can ease your mind that there is zero risk of CO poisoning.

As for sizing - I have a 2 car attached garage, and a 17k BTU heater has been more than adequate. A 35K would be great but my panel can't handle that much. If it's -10F and I had the door open for half an hour, it takes awhile to warm back up. In those cases I fire up this one and between them it's comfy again in 15-20 minutes:
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200307957_200307957

I don't need to run them at all to keep the space from freezing, enough leaks thru from the house to prevent that.

This is the setup I have....was all pretty simple:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UWP07LK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Little-Giant-VCMA-20ULS-Condensate-Removal/dp/B000SM342Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469043771&sr=8-1&keywords=condensate+pump

Others have explained it, so let me know if you need further explaining.

This is what I'm talking about. I don't endorse these, I just found them in two seconds on amazon. Although this one doesn't even need a battery, it uses piezo electricity from the force of you turning the switch, to generate the signal to send to the other switch turning it on or of. I recommend you browse around amazon for wherever for cheaper one, Ive seen them a lot cheaper then $99.

https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K

I have this [wall mount](VideoSecu ML531BE TV Wall Mount for most 25"-55" LED LCD Plasma Flat Screen Monitor ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WYVBR0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_Pcs0Ab63SZN9M) which does allow me to angle down. This is the wall mount brought with me from the previous home. Did the one you recommend have anything that this did not?

You may want to buy a mousture sensor.

General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mOEvCbX3KNQNX

I have the same ceiling/texture. I have a big water spot from a fixed roof leak. While it was leaking it didnt necessarily feel moist but the meter was a good way to check.

These are good:

https://www.amazon.com/Wiring-House-Completely-Revised-Updated/dp/162710674X

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Guide-Installations-Step-Step/dp/1580117872

https://www.amazon.com/Homeowners-DIY-Guide-Electrical-Wiring/dp/0071844759

I got this one. I thought the time selection was better.

https://www.amazon.com/Brondell-Bidet-SimpleSpa-Non-Electric-Attachment/dp/B075MMHQX7

This one's been good to me.

What about something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413756891&sr=8-2

This device wires into one switch. The second switch is a remote control that can either be mounted in a box (no wiring, it's RF) or used like any other remote. I saw it on a This Old House video.

https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Ceiling-P-PKG1W-WH/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1527002725&sr=1-3&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2800162011

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBtFpmDkQus

Yep, the Neo 320, never look back haha

Luxe Bidet Neo 320 - Self Cleaning Dual Nozzle - Hot and Cold Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jz2iDb8K9DFPZ

This is the easiest answer. Look at Lutron caseta. You can pair a switch to a small remote that you can then wall mount. Caseta doesn't require a neutral. Pairing it with a remote doesn't require a hub.

They're sold as kits even:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY0S4G/

Motion sensors are probably the best way to go, as others have said, but I'll offer a different alternative. This switch has a built-in timer that you can set for 1, 5, 10, 15, 20 or 30 minutes. There's also other timer switches out there, some of which can even be programmed.

something like this thermostat outlet could turn on a space heater at 2C and go off at 7C

https://www.amazon.com/Farm-Innovators-TC-3-Thermostatically-Controlled/dp/B0006U2HD2

something like this:

moisture detector

It should not be super hot, and I would think if something was wrong the breaker would trip before it got super hot.
Something like this would let you know how many amps its pulling and it its too much.

https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1506029338&sr=8-2&keywords=kill+a+watt

If you're curious how much power you're using through an outlet, you can purchase a killawatt: https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU

I just added this switch. I think its 2hat your describing.

Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Fan Control and Dimmer Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MOIDA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XplxCbBR8Y0D3

keeping bathroom door closed and a fan timer helped us.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IB0ZJXE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an actual meter on it and I've gotten my power bill. Believe me it consumes 1200-1300 watts 24/7 all graphics card running OCed. The heavy duty extension cord I'm using is warm.

But you're saying the same thing someone has said, I might need a sub panel. Thank you for your advice. For now I might just ask them to do 3 20 amp breakers but my end of the year plan is to have 6 rigs running.

Luxe Bidet Neo 320 - Self Cleaning Dual Nozzle - Hot and Cold Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J6suybNS0VGGY

Yep. I have a Luton Maestro Caseta with the pico remote and it let me adjust the dimming range to where it goes smoothly to almost completely off. That's with Cree bulbs.

Edit: I just checked and mine is actually a Caseta, not a Maestro. Here's the link.

Except that the unit that is being recommended in the discussion here is actually 745 W. So u/ten-million could be right if it runs say 3/4 of the time or more.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UWP07LK/

Get a moisture meter and check for moisture. It doesn’t look like recent water damage. Tough to tell without a moisture reading.

something like this

I live in Texas where in February/March/April, it's humid AF but not hot enough to run the AC yet.

I solved the problem by buying this 70 pint Frigidaire dehumidifier.

If the humidity is over 70%, it'll fill up overnight and I empty it in the morning and let it rip until I get home and empty etc.

I suspect I really need two of them for my 2200 sqf house as it struggles to keep up because I turn it off when I want to watch TV etc. Still, it does a remarkable job of keeping mold out and the inside of the house pleasantly unmuggy.

Hopefully just bad workmanship. Might be worth picking up a moisture meter to verify that you don't have water getting in through the roof/attic

General Tools MMD4E Moisture Meter, Pin Type, Digital LCD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MQV1Bb6X2HRQY

Electrical : Wiring a House: 5th Edition (For Pros By Pros) https://www.amazon.com/dp/162710674X

Maybe one of these??

I'd suggest investing in a kill-a-watt type meter to measure your line power quality. You might have higher than normal voltage, and might be something you need to have the power company look into.

Check out a clamp meter. You would need to be able to get to the wiring near the breaker to measure the amp draw there.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NWGZ4XC

There are also ones you can put between the outlet and item, but that only measures that item, not the whole load. It only works on 110v items (not an electric dryer).
https://www.amazon.com/P4400-Kill-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU

A Kill-a-Watt or multimeter will do the job.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQHW-WH-Maestro-Control-Dimmer/dp/B000MOIDA8

Just be aware that these don't with with LED's

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MA-LFQHW-WH-Maestro-Control-Dimmer/dp/B000MOIDA8

You can check it for moisture by using one of these,
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-MMD4E-Moisture-Digital/dp/B00275F5O2/ref=zg_bs_553270_1/147-4890196-7509912?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HMG2MAN2HSF6RCQZ1VZN

https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJY0S4G/ref=mp_s_a_1_37?ie=UTF8&qid=1467694453&sr=8-37&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wireless+light+switch

https://m.canadiantire.ca/#/products/productDetail/0527544P/false/false/false?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=SearchVoice&utm_source=RatingsAndReviews&utm_content=Default&quantity=1

They may even just be hanging behind drywall somewhere. Installers do that sometimes.

You should pick up a wire tracer if you can't find the ends. http://www.amazon.com/Extech-TG20-Wire-Tracer-Generator/dp/B00APD16D2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414521740&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+tracer

Rok Hardware 25 Pack Soft Close Damper for Cabinet Doors / Compact / Soft Close Adapter / Hardware / Nickel / Hinge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G83iDbZV34G40

Add these

https://www.amazon.com/Rok-Hardware-Cabinet-Compact-Adapter/dp/B00J9XB6BQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HH9PZAHVK79YMX24J3RR

Let me guess, each one of them were north of $8000. First thing to do is get a wireless hygrometer and see what your actual humidity level is. Next thing to do is to verify that you have a grounded outlet down there and if not get one installed so a a dehumidifier can be installed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UWP07LK/?coliid=I2A7D6WWXYXWB7

Baby steps.

I’ve always heard that if it can hold a square of toilet paper, then it’s working. It could be as simple as it’s not running for long enough, I leave mine off during my shower, but let it run for ~20 min after. You can get a simple timer switch and let it run after you get out.
Enerlites HET06A-White 1-5-10-15-20-30 Minutes Preset In-Wall Countdown Timer Switch, w Decorator Wall Plate, White

>I have a home built in 1959 and I believe it must have had a doorbell at some point

Based on what info? Not all houses had doorbells, some had knockers in lieu of doorbells.

>I see some small gauge wiring that looks like doorbell wire going roughly toward the door in the since-finished basement ceiling, but I've not been able to find out where it terminates at either end.

Low voltage wiring could be doorbell, alarm, speaker, irrigation, thermostat......just because you see small gauge wire doesn't mean it was a doorbell wire.

If you're sure that wire isn't used for anything else, I would get a wire tracer, cut the wire in the middle and see if you can find one or both ends. Be prepared to splice it in a junction box if you determine it's being used for something else.

One negative that nobody ever mentions so I’m thinking it might just be the one I bought is that unless I sit just right it sprays the back of my nuts. There’s no way to adjust the angle so I have to deal with a little more cleanup than a quick bhole patdown about 50% of the time. Other than that it’s a big plus to my bowel movements.

I bought a cheap attachment one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075MMHQX7/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1