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Buy yourself a decent bolt action .22 or a shotgun, a good 3-5" fixed blade knife, a blaze orange hat or vest, and a decent little first aid kit (don't forget a tourniquet).


Step 1: Take a hunters safety/education class.

Some states have classes exclusively for adults. This will give you some basic, but good info on gun/bow safety and state laws pertaining to hunting. In addition, they should have pamphlets that will outline the different hunting seasons, game animals, invasive species, and state/federal hunting areas.

These classes might also help you meet some more experienced folks who could bring you along or offer some valuable advice.


Step 2: Learn how to use your gear.

Your ability with your gear can mean the difference between success and failure on the hunt--and in some cases life and death (especially pertaining to your med kit).

Let's start with the rifle. I like bolt action .22's. You can get a very accurate gun and learn how to use it for very little money. Using a bolt action .22 with iron sights forces the shooter to learn the fundamentals of marksmanship, building a solid foundation for the future.

I like the Savage MkII and the Ruger American.

With either rifle I'd recommend adding a peep sight and a regular 2 point sling.
Both are accurate and inexpensive rifles that you can shoot day in and day out for years.

You should be able to find a range with at least 50 yards to sight in (aka zero) your rifle. If you need guidance here, there are plenty of online resources, however, you'd do better to ask an experienced shooter for a hand. Be sure to use the same ammo for zero and hunting.

For shotguns you can't beat the versatility of a Remington 870 or Mossberg 500. Get either gun in 12 or 20 gauge. The beauty of these two is that you are always a simple barrel change away from being able to shoot birdshot (birds small game) or slugs (everything else).

With a good .22 and a good shotgun, you should be able to hunt most wild game in North America. There are better calibers and rifles for specific hunting applications but those two will do it all.

What I don't recommend for hunting rifles/shotguns and why:

1 I don't like scopes (at first). Forcing yourself to learn on iron sights means you develop a firm foundation in the fundamentals. I remember wanting a scope for my .22 so bad, so my dad made me a deal. I had to kill 100 red squirrels or starlings and 10 groundhogs before he'd let me add a scope. It took me the better part of a summer to accomplish this but I walked away from that summer being able to put lead on just about anything within 150 yards of that little rifle.

2 I don't like autoloaders (at first). Simply because shooting a bolt gun means you have one, maybe two shots to get the job done. You learn to make ever shot count. Once you are proficient, go wild.

3 I don't like tactical/tacticool rifles for beginners or really hunting for that matter. They are usuallly auto loaders (see #2), heavier, and more expensive. You don't feel so bad taking your $230 Savage through brambles, tripping over roots and dropping it, or leaning it up against a rusty fence post. If you don't trust me, look at what the professional hunters use.

Extras: buy a quality, brass rod cleaning kit and some decent gun oil (or CLP) for deep cleans. Keep a [Bore Snake](.22 .223 .25 CAL Bore Snake Cleaner Kit Cord Rope Brass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JKSNVTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XRfGzbN7P8Z58) in an extra pocket for the times you get dirt or debris in the barrel.


Get yourself a good knife. I always have my pocket knife (a CRKT M21-02G) and a skinner when I'm hunting.

For a pocket knife use what suits you. For a skinner I really like knives like the Schrade Old Timer 158 for general skinning and this blade from Ontario Knife.

You also need a good way to keep your knives sharp. I've had a lot of luck with the. [Lansky System](Lansky Deluxe 5-Stone Sharpening System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_85fGzbBRJDH6K).


Last, please get yourself a decent med kit. Too many people have died in the woods due to a knife accident or gun accident that could have been easily treated.

You can easily make yourself a basic kit or buy one like [this](Ever Ready First Aid Meditac Tactical Trauma IFAK Kit with Trauma Pack Quickclot and Israeli Bandage in Molle Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GAAMS2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iagGzb76NGQZJ) pre-made.

This kit has everything you need except for a tourniquet like [this](Tourniquet - (Black) Recon Medical Gen 3 Mil-Spec Kevlar Metal Windlass Aluminum Lightweight First Aid Tactical Swat Medic Pre-Hospital Life Saving Hemorrhage Control Registration Card (1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ETMVQOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fcgGzbSAMKAWS) and an Israeli Bandage like [this](Ever Ready Bandage Battle Dressing First Aid Compression Bandage, 6 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DPVERM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1cgGzb9C9H5WP).

You can learn to use all this stuff over the course of an hour via YouTube. You would do better to find a nurse, paramedic, or Navy Corpsman to give you a crash course in the use of the contents of your IFAK. If you can find a Corpsman, they are probably the best for this kind of thing. Lots of good tips and tricks for field use...plus you can pay them in beer.

Don't forget to add extras like any medication you might need, chapstick, Bayer aspirin (good for headaches and heart attacks), a little tube of antibacterial ointment, and a couple fabric bandages.

If you won't carry this on your person, keep it in your vehicle.

For good practice I like squirrel and rabbit hunting. Makes you consider a lot about safety, a lot about taking only the good shots, plus they are easy to clean and good to eat.


Last learn how to use what you kill.

If you are hunting varmits, that is one thing. I shoot invasive species (when legal), and varmits that are causing a nuisance and that is reason enough for me.

If you are hunting anything else for exclusively for sport, please use it. You can use some of the books referenced earlier to learn about skinning and field dressing. I like to watch shows like Meat Eater, to learn better ways to use the meat I've harvested. Once you get into cooking game meat, you will wonder why you ever went to the store for meat.

Just don't forget that hunting is about stewardship and learning. It's a lifelong pursuit that is very rewarding.

Always be safe, always be ethical, always be responsible, always have fun.

Edit: If you ever find yourself in south central or southwest Michigan, I can help you with anything I've outlined above. I'm a lifelong hunter, a lifelong shooter, a small arms instructor in the military, a certified combat lifesaver, and a decent game cook.

For those interested, here is the process I follow. This is the second skull I've done and both have turned out nicely. I know it looks like a lot of work at face value, and there is a lot of time that goes into it, but I was super nervous the first time I tried this, did a lot of research on how to do euro mounts and ultimately almost bailed out and paid someone $150 to do it for me. I ended up sticking it out and am glad I did both times. I know it's cliche, but if I can do this, anyone can do it and there is an immense amount of self pride that you get from seeing it hanging on your wall. Good luck and I look forward to seeing pictures of others who attempt to do their own DIY euro mount!

1. Using your favorite knife or utility knife remove the hide from the deer skull. I find it best to pull the hide away from the skull while making small slices where the hide is still connected to the skull. But use whatever means you like so long as you get the hide removed.
   
2. Once the skin is removed, I typically start working on removing the lower jaw and tongue. Slowly start pulling the bottom jaw open and cut away at the tendons and meat that give you resistance. Eventually the lower jaw should completely give way and separate from the skull.
   
3. With the lower jaw removed I next turn my focus to removing the eyeballs. Typically I will start by cutting away at the fatty waxy substance behind the eye socket. Once you have most of that stuff removed, start pushing on the eyeball from behind, trying to force it out through the front of the skull. As you're pushing, try to cut away at the tissue around the eye to release it from the socket. Eventually you'll be able to pop the eyeball out and cut away the remaining tissue and nerves.
   
4. Once you've removed both eyeballs it's time to move onto the brain. Depending on your budget and patience you can handle this one of two ways. The first time I just used a combination of picks and knives to dig the brain matter out of the brain cavity. The second time around I ordered the RaptoRazor Scrambler (link below) which is essentially a drill bit that you string up with weed eater string. Using this tool you can simply pour water into the brain cavity, mix it up with the scrambler, and pour it out. It took me approximately 4 to 5 cycles of this to get the brain cavity completely cleaned. But as soon as the water begins to pour clear you're done.
   
5. Now that the brain and eyeballs have been removed from the skull use a combination of knives and picks to get as much meat and cartilage off the skull as possible. Pay extra attention in detail to the nasal cavity as the bones are delicate and break easily, but there is so much cartilage to be removed.
   
6. Once you're satisfied and have removed as much meat and cartilage as possible it's time to boil the skull. I use an outdoor turkey fryer with an old stock pot. Add a box of baking soda to the pot of water and bring to a simmer just below a boil and let your skull simmer for 45 minutes to an hour. I used a 2'x4' to wedge my antlers do that they did not submerge in the water.
   
7. Remove the skull from the water and remove any remaining meat and cartilage using picks, pliers, and a steel brush off you have one available. Just be careful not to gouge the skull.
   
8. At this point you can optionally remove the ear bones by prying them out with a flat head screw driver. This will remove a good chunk of meat that can be hard to get to any other way. Some folks like the look with the ear bones but it's entirely up to you.
   
9. Place the skull back into the simmering water for 25 to 35 minutes. While the skull is simmering, fill a large cooler or tub with hot water (as hot as your hands can stand to be submerged in) and squirt a lot of dawn dish soap in.
   
10. Remove the skull from the pot and immediately submerge it into the water dish soap solution. Using an air compressor, submerge the skull and air nozzle and spray over the entire surface and into all cavities of the skull. This simulates a pressure washer and the dish soap helps to de-grease the skull while also removing the bits and pieces of hard to reach meat.
    
    Some folks will use a pressure washer instead of steps 9 and 10, but I prefer this method as it removes the grease which can cause the skull to yellow over time.
    
    
11. Let your skull dry over night (or set it in front of a space heater for a half hour or so) to ensure its dried thoroughly.
    
    At this point your skull can be mounted if you are satisfied with the appearance. The remaining steps are my preference and help with the cosmetics only.
    
    
12. Bleach your skull. You can order these products off of Amazon (links below), but I just go to the local Sally Beauty Supply. Make sure to wear gloves, eye protection, and a mask for this part as the bleach mixture can be relatively strong and caustic. Tape off the antlers with masking or painters tape to the brow tines in order to protect the antlers from the bleaching mixture. Mix Salon Care 40 Volume Developer Creme with Salon Care Quick White Powder Lightener until it's roughly the consistency of a milk shake and then paint the skull and cavities with the mixture. I used an old tooth brush to cover the inside of the brain cavity and dumped some extra in their along with the nasal cavity.
    
    Once the skull is entirely covered, wrap the entire thing in Saran wrap and place in front of a space heater. The heat is necessary to activate the bleaching agent. Heat the skull for about an hour, rotating every 10 minutes or so to ensure even heating.
    
    While the skull is heating, prepare a new cooler full of hot water; no soap this time. Once the skull had been heated, cut the Saran wrap and submerge the skull to the base of the antlers and use your air compressor to bubble the surface and cavities again to remove the bleach and clean the skull.
    
    Let the skull dry thoroughly. As the skull dries out will lighten up, but if you're unsatisfied with the color you can repeat the cleaning process as needed.
    
    
13. After the skull has dried you should have a beautiful euro mount ready to go. This last step is a personal preference, but I usually take a cherry or colonial wood stain, dip a rag in it and rub the antlers down to darken them back up. BE CAREFUL TO NOT DRIP THE STAIN ON THE NEWLY BLEACHED SKULL.
    
    This also brings out a lot of unseen character in the antlers. Let the stain set for 10 minutes or so and wipe them down with a clean dry cloth.
    
    Now you should have a beautiful skull with a nice, dark rack ready to mount. My mount of choice is the Walnut Hollow Country Solid Wood Deluxe Euro Skull Display Kit from Amazon.
    
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Product Links:
    
    RaptoRazor Scrambler - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K3KQ6DR/
    
    Salon Care 40 Volume Creme Developer- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OKDW20/
    
    Salon Care Quick White Powder Lightener - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OKG9PW/
    
    Walnut Hollow Country Solid Wood Deluxe Euro Skull Display Kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UV9QH4/
    
    ​
    
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Sources of inspiration/information:
    
    EDIT: Here are the two articles I found that inspired me and were sources for my slightly modified process:
    
    https://www.instructables.com/id/European-Mounted-Deer/
    
    https://www.huntaddicts.com/do-it-yourself-european-mount/

I use a rifle, .22 caliber, but you could use a bow or shotgun as well. If you use a shotgun you would ideally use something smaller like 20 gauge rather than 12. With a shotgun you could take shots with the squirrel or rabbit moving, but with a .22 you can aim better and more accurately on a stationary one and get a head shot so that you don't ruin any meat. If you were to use a .22 you'd want to be out on some land not near a city or anything because you wouldn't want to shoot at one up in a tree and miss and the bullet come down on someone. It's not likely by any means, but still.

I have this book(The Complete Guide to Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game: Volume 2: Small Game and Fowl) by Steven Rinella that's all about small game hunting, including techniques on how to hunt things like rabbit, squirrel, quail, duck, etc. and it also tells you about what gear to use(including essentials like guns and ammo as well as non essential stuff like binoculars), and how to clean and cook the animal including recipes. Has a lot of useful information from an experienced hunter that explains things way better than I can lol. It's only $15 and I highly recommend it to help get you started!

I use a 30L Marmot, an 85L Osprey, or a regular school backpack sized Northface, and absolutely love them. It really depends on personal preference and what kind of hunt you are going on. If you do buy an internal frame pack, be sure to go to a store and try it on with some stuff in it. If you go to a major hunting/camping place, they will have staff to fit it for you. Do that and then buy online to save money.

I've used cheap walmart base layers for years until this year. Got an amazing set from a Cabela's bargain cave and decided that from now on I am going to get the expensive ones(unless I find another sale). The cheap ones will do it, but aren't nearly as comfortable or warm so I had to wear more layers. My fiancee swears up and down that her under armor set is better than the same set I bought from cabelas(she has both).

For a jacket(and maybe pack) do you need it to be camo? If no, for a jacket I suggest a Carhartt. If yes on camo, I love my Drake but it was super expensive. Maybe check out Macks Prairie Wings site?

As for anything else to make your hunt more fun, if you are done growing, I suggest splurging on a great pair of boots. Warm, dry, and comfy feet make me really happy. I also sometimes bring a little pocket rocket or a jetboil for warm food or drink but that really depends on the type of hunt. Stanley makes a great thermos for warm liquid up to 10-12 hours.

Also maybe think about a compact trauma kit. Accidents happen. I've got an Israeli bandage (get a bigger one that I linked. 6in isn't enough) coupled with a put together trauma kit. Blood clot packs, gauze, alcohol, thermo blanket, etc.

Hope reading this wall of text helped.

Ninja Edit: Rope or paracord for dragging dead game.

I think it depends on what kind of person you are. If you think you'll be happier doing it yourself, knowing how it was done and learning while you go then you should take the leap and give it a shot. It's really not that hard to mess up and the learning experience will be invaluable. I'm by no means a professional but I always do it myself and like it that way. I know exactly how it was taken care of, I've done it how I want to and I've been in control of the whole process. It can be daunting, no doubt but the best way to learn, like most things, is to jump in. And in the end, if you found that it's just not for you then, then at least you know what it involves and can move forward with that knowledge next time.

If your worried you don't know enough or don't know anyone to help you through it then there are now lots of places to pick up good information. If you have netflix, throw on Meateater, season 6, episode 6. Steve Renilla is a great example of how to do things right and I wish he was around when I started hunting. You could also pick up Renilla's book (link below) which is great for many reasons besides being well worth the cheap price.

One note, I know Renilla doesn't like vacuum sealers for big game but I found it works fine if you don't bang them around. His method is most likely more durable (and probably cheaper) but if you want to vacuum it, that will work too.

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/081299406X/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503768517&sr=8-2&keywords=hunting+and+butchering+wild+game

Find an experienced shooter to take you to the range... Practice some marksmanship fundamentals with them on a small round (.22lr would be ideal) and then transfer that to the .308. Stepping up through a couple intermediate calibers while practicing (like .223 which lots of shooters will have for plinking or .243) would help.

The .308, as others have said, is NOT a 'small' gun. But, I think you're absolutely right that it is a "One Gun to Do Them All" chambering. You can take any huntable game with a proper .308 load.

Putting aside the gun whargarbl for a minute, here's some stuff on your more foundational question:

1. You should find and enroll in a hunter safety class first. Period. Hands down. You _need_ the training, really, and it's a great way to meet new hunters to go into the woods with or more experienced hunters who will be willing to be mentoring resources for you.
   
2. I'd point you to Steve Rinella's _Complete Guides_ if you're looking for a generalist resource to get started. There's two books focused on different classes of game (small/large), and a lot of helpful information for the hunter entering the sport. I am/was that guy. I quickly found myself wanting to move on to other, more in-depth resources on the specific things I was interested in, but these are no-brainers for 'first books'.
   
3. Rinella's podcasts and Netflix show (MeatEater) is excellent, too.
   
4. Get out in the field NOW. Start going to the woods or marshes (I'm a waterfowler) or fields and just walk. Get your body in shape for walking/hiking long distances. Start walking around and REALLY looking at what's around you. Begin training your eye to just 'see stuff'. You might not know what you're seeing, but snap a pic of it and google stuff when you're back home. Learning to navigate and observe in the field is the most important thing a hunter can do, based on my own experience. So, get out there now. If you can find someone more seasoned to go with you, all the better.
   
   ​
   
   Hope that helps. I'm 4 years into learning myself. Happy to chat more!

I'm looking at the same thing. I'm tempted by the cheaper course but was hoping to hear that the $35 course would get more actual hunting information through to me.

I may just go that route and hope for the best since it's pay only when you pass and it is a once in a lifetime thing.

Edit: I'm in Texas as well.

Thought I'd mention that I picked up This book based on recommendations from this sub and it's good. I'm thinking I'll get what I was hoping for from the hunters education course but just through this book.

I'm new to hunting as well, just started duck hunting last season and still haven't gone after any big game. First mammal I got was some cottontail.

I found Steven Rinella's books to be extremely helpful, he has two volumes: The Complete Guide to Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game: Volume 1: Big Game and The Complete Guide to Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game: Volume 2: Small Game and Fowl

Very reasonable prices and packed full of knowledge. In my opinion one of the best starting places to start learning hunting before you dive into more detailed books on specific species. That being said, if you can find a mentor that's really one of the best ways to start but educating yourself through books, videos, etc will help you understand the tactics much better. Like any endeavor you'll probably have disappointment your first few times out but that's just part of the experience and learning. Good luck!

Well the first and best place to learn is here: http://www.wildlife.state.nh.us/hunting/

In NC to hunt on private land you need written permission and have it on your person when doing so. There are public lands to hunt, but be careful (hunter orange) and it is best in middle of the week.

Steven Rinella wrote a couple good books I would recommend.

The Complete Guide to Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game: Volume 1: Big Game https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q1IFKOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_M.Zhyb7PHRFX5

There is also a small game version.

Couple other things: Start by taking a hunter safety course, preferably with range/field time included. Buy decent binoculars and look for game with your glass, not your boots. Speaking of boots, buy a good pair and make sure they're broken in before you go out too far. Squirrel or doves are a good place to start. In California, you could probably start with deer hunting on a National Forest. Wyoming doe antelope or javelina in Arizona would be a good first out-of-state big game hunt. The tags are cheap, easy to draw, and the animals are found on public land. A good resource/introduction to hunting:

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/081299406X

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/0812987055

While it's low fence some of those ranches are HUGE and they manage deer more like a private reserve. They don't stop deer from coming and going but they feed and cull for antler genetics. The low fence designation is to make it clear that it's different than a fair chase deer.

Some low fence operations will buy big bucks from high fence and breeding operations and release them - so it's not really a wild population. EDIT - learned this is now illegal in TX from Griefers below.

http://www.huntfairchase.com/

Also - I suggest this book to all hunters: https://www.amazon.com/Beyond-Fair-Chase-Tradition-Hunting/dp/1560442832/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=fair+chase&qid=1574516524&sr=8-1

tl;dr TX is weird.

​

Edited to note that it's illegal to release deer for non-high fence hunts in TX.

2007 law:



Sec. 43.361. RELEASE SITES. (a) A release site onto which breeder deer are liberated must be surrounded by a fence not less than seven feet in height that is capable of retaining deer at all times under reasonable and ordinary circumstances.

(b) The owner of a release site is responsible for ensuring that the fence surrounding the release site and infrastructure associated with the fence are in a condition to retain deer as provided by Subsection (a).

I'm in the same boat as you - in the process of 'self-teaching'. I just picked up this book and found it very helpful.

I've decided to start with a bow - and I've found archery to be an awesome hobby outside of hunting as well. Hopefully I'll get lucky and get a deer before the seasons out - although I haven't seen anything in WI since gun season started

Toss that little black lantern you have, that thing sucks, I used to use the same one. Black Diamond makes one about 20% the size and weight, and the batteries last a lot longer. It also has a flashlight and is dimmable.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Lantern-Vibrant-Orange/dp/B00N3IAW6S/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=black+diamond+lantern&qid=1569636189&sr=8-4

They make more expensive fancier ones too, but that orange one has worked perfectly fine for me. Was a huge upgrade

I snagged these on sale for under $40. One of the best hunting related purchases I've ever made. They have a pick up mic on both sides, so you can determine direction of sounds. The electronics actually work like a hearing aid. You could hear a mouse fart in the next room.

Most importantly, they are super low profile so they don't need with your cheekweld.

Amazon Link

I would start with a hunters education course. You can find local ones online, check the department of natural resource sites for either your home state or states neighboring DC.

I'm sure it's going to get mentioned more in this thread, but find what you want to hunt, and check out this book (or volume 2 if it covers the animals you want to hunt, or get both): The Complete Guide to Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game: Volume 1: Big Game https://www.amazon.com/dp/081299406X/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_nKwuzb664V3FF

The books cover pretty much everything you need to know about hunting, and Google and YouTube are your friends from there.

Other than that, your issue is getting some hands on with firearms. For that I would suggest finding a range that offers gun rentals and has a range officer to help you get started. A more expensive option would be to take classes on gun handling and shooting.

Also, you may check out MeatEater on Netflix. The host is the man that wrote the book linked above. He doesn't cover a lot of the basics, but it paints how to hunt in broad strokes.

Oh man... that kind of tracking takes a looooong time to get any good at, and is honestly beyond the reach of most sane people. At least, being able to do it in a timely fashion. Not to mention, if your friend has a paintball gun and is hidden somewhere in the woods... blundering around looking for his tracks is a really good way to get your ass shot.

If you really want to get the drop on him, read up on still hunting and learn how to really keep your eyes and ears open. Keep still more often than you move, and learn how to read good cover in the landscape. Especially this: keep still, keep low, and look for movement.

Deer know what's up: if they sense danger, they freeze in place and go on high-alert. Moving things are easy to see, still things are not. Don't run around like Rambo moving from tree to tree if you plan on sneaking around at all (although honestly, if you're playing around with paintball guns it will rapidly devolve into this).

If you want to pursue tracking, read these books for starters:

• Tracking and the Art of Seeing
  
  
• Tom Brown's Nature Observation and Tracking

If you want a great book resource, I would highly recommend Steven Rinella's Complete Guide to Hunting series. It covers a wide range of topics from gear selection, hunting methods, and some recipe ideas. His show and podcasts are also good.

Amazon Link

Try this book. I felt like it was a great starting off point for me. Kept me from having to ask a ton of silly questions of friends and family who are experienced.

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/081299406X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504826391&sr=8-1&keywords=complete+guide+to+hunting+butchering+and+cooking+wild+game

If your'e range is under 40yds, I'd look into Barnett Recruit or recruit recurve. I have the recruit recurve, usually $150 at Dicks. I use it mostly for hogs(largest was 205lbs), its a no frills accurate and deadly crossbow.There are other ones with more features but that's up to you. I would buy extra bolts to practice and a cocking rope.

Recruit Recurve:
https://m.dickssportinggoods.com/p/barnett-recruit-recurve-crossbow-package-16bt2urcrtrcrv4x3abw/16bt2urcrtrcrv4x3abw

Recruit:
https://www.amazon.com/Barnett-Recruit-Compound-Crossbow-Package/dp/B00BD5B7Y4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1505481076&sr=1-1&keywords=barnett+recruit

Cocker Rope:
https://www.amazon.com/Muddy-Buck-Gear-Rope-Cocker/dp/B01B8KX4AS/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1505481053&sr=1-2&keywords=cocking+rope


Edit:

I switched over to these bolts this year and strongly recommend them. You'll need to buy field tips but they go deep into the bag and fly true.

https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Express-Piledriver-Crossbolt-52140/dp/B00AU6CPKW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1505481224&sr=8-6&keywords=20+inch+crossbow+bolt&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011

Pro tip for anyone taking pictures of tracks: If it's possible, take a picture of the entire series of tracks so we can see its gait and how it walked/trotted. With all that snow, you probably could've got a good picture with a lot of tracks visible. That is a huge clue when looking at canine tracks. A domestic dog will usually wander around most of the time and will be noticeably more clumsy and inconsistent with its gait. A wild canine will usually know where it wants to go and it will be nearly a straight line with one foot in front of the other.



Anyone that thinks they can positively ID that track from that picture is only fooling themselves.



That being said: According to the book Tracking and the Art of Seeing: How to Read Animal Tracks and Sign by Paul Rezendes, a wolf's front track will be between 3 7/8" to 5 1/2" long by 2 3/8" to 5" wide. The rear track will be 3 1/8" to 4 3/4 long by 2 1/4" to 4 1/4" wide. An eastern coyote's front track will be 2 7/8" to 3 1/2" long by 1 7/8" to 2 1/2" wide. The rear track will be 2 1/2" to 3" long by 1 5/8" to 2 1/8" wide.


According to that, a big coyote and a small wolf will come within 1/8" of overlapping in the size of their paws. And now add in that soft snow will splay out their toes and the fact that when snow melts even a little, the track expands.... and you have yourself quite the dilemma on what you're looking at.



Edit: I swear I'm not making a sales pitch, but that book was a great purchase. http://www.amazon.com/Tracking-Art-Seeing-Animal-Tracks/dp/0062735241

Meat Eater by Steven Rinella is a wonderful book about his life as a hunter.
American Buffalo is another book from Rinella that not only tells of the hunt but contains a great history lesson.

I use 2 moultrie M880s, 2 moultrie D-55-ir, and 1 spypoint BF-6.

If you can find the moultrie m880 from 2013, snag em. Phenominal quality and trigger speed. The low glow infared doesn't spook animals at all from what i've noticed. Can find em on amazon. They look like this

I picked up a 2014, and though it is 8mp just like the 2013, the quality was garbage. Horrible aperture and shutterspeed compared the the 2013. things like stationary trees on the outer edge of the focus were blurred, images were always a bit washed out, and lacked the clarity I was getting from my 2013 m880s. Do not get m880s that look like this

As for my other 3 cams, they're all good for the price. The moultrie D55s are a tad slower on trigger speed than my m880s, but for the most part they still get good pictures. If an animal is sprinting past my cams at full speed, so far only my m880 and spypoint capture it.

The spypoint BF-6 i use isn't as great for image quality as the m880, however i picked it up to test it for a few reasons. It has a detection range out to 65 feet, where the m880 seems to be around 45 feet.

As well, it was no glo infrared flash, compared to the m880s low glo. I wanted to test the different infrared flashes against each other.

Since I've only used two models of moultries and one spypoint, I can only suggest those. If I had to choose what to get more of between the 3, right now I choose to get more of the 2013 m880s. However I've only recently started using the spypoint, so I need some more time with it to determine the pros and cons.

I've seen and read some good things about bushnell trophy cams, I know a few models from either 2009 or 2010 had some issues with electrical shorts and overly sensitive triggers. But I've seen some quality images from those cams. When I'm in the market for a new camera to add to the collection, I'll most likely checkout one of those.

Here's an album with a few shots, The first 3 images are from m880s, the last 2 are from D-55-ir. I don't have any from my spypoint available right now.

Howard Leight Impact Sports work great for me. You can actually amplify sound louder than usual, and still get great hearing protection.

You obviously don't know anything about Steven Rinella. He is probably the most honest, humble author and outdoorsman I have come across. His book Meateater is awesome and deserves a read by every hunter.

As many people have said, your knife is a big part of the process. I would HIGHLY recommend the Victorinox curved boning knife. I worked as a butcher for three years and used this knife nonstop. Best part is that they are so cheap, after a few times of sharpening it, you can afford a new one and hang on to the old one for getting into the joints and anything where you hit bone.

That was a great read! I ordered this one right after I finished reading it because I wanted it to keep going haha.

pump. you sound like an amazing candidate for the Mossberg Field/Deer Combo. It's the all around gun for the new hunter. Anything from squirrel to elk for $425.

a knife isn't too important if all you're doing is gutting deer. I've used a regular lockblade Buck 110 pocket knife over half the deer i've gutted. If you're going to be quartering and packing out meat, a decent 5-6 inch boning knife is the ticket. For small game my bird and trout knife has been an amazingly useful tool.

I tanned my deer skin from a couple years ago and it took so long I never really finished it. I would highly suggest getting the tools and work space prepared before starting the work as it takes a long time to complete with half assed prep.

You can salt the hide and keep it up to a year before tanning so don't feel rushed to start just because you have the skins.

https://www.amazon.com/Deer-Hunters-Trappers-Tanning-Formula/dp/B0031TRZJG/ref=sr_1_6?crid=31315VQZ06PI4&keywords=tanning+solution&qid=1550855097&s=gateway&sprefix=tanning+sol%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-6

I used this stuff and followed the directions on the bottle. I also watched some of these videos by skillcult on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nEcJVruXj-s&list=PL60FnyEY-eJChUzoIGCqYE20rpjbfOgfc

He does some more ye olde natural tanning methods though. But he has good info on the rest of it like fleshing the hides and whatnot.

Will be hunting in NE Wisconsin so I know the Blaze Orange is a requirement. Looking at getting a cheap blind but not sure what is good, what isn't. Any thoughts on this one? Really appreciate the tips!

Iv been successful with pop up ground blinds for turkey... Not sure if deer would mind it... If u can build one temporary or permanent I would do that.

https://www.amazon.com/Ameristep-Doghouse-Ground-Blind-Realtree/dp/B00JA82FV0/ref=sr_1_5?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1505516749&sr=1-5&keywords=ground+blind

https://www.amazon.com/Ameristep-Care-Taker-Blind-Realtree-Xtra/dp/B00JQHWT52/ref=sr_1_4?s=hunting-fishing&ie=UTF8&qid=1505516749&sr=1-4&keywords=ground+blind

If u go with the pop up set it up a few days early so the new plastic smell wears off :)

Steve Rinella's Complete Guide to Hunting Butchering and Cooking Wild Game. Volume 1 is big game, volume 2 is small game. I have only read Vol 1, but it's great.

84.00 each is not really that good of a price. I have some of those cameras and they are my lease favorite due to how basic they are. I got 2 for $100 on Amazon once. You get what you pay for. Gandermountain, not sure if you have those near you had the 880 series from the same maker for $109.99. Was 179.99 regular price. I got 2 and love them. I currently have 8 cameras on our 120 acre family spot

http://www.amazon.com/Moultrie-M-880-Game-Camera-Model/dp/B00HAH6K8W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412238508&sr=8-1&keywords=moultrie+880

Get a bottle of Deer hunter hunter and trappers tanning solution. Works great and it only takes a couple days. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0031TRZJG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1478297589&sr=8-1&keywords=deer+tanning+formula

Anything by Steve Rinella - he has The Complete Guide to Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wildgame books which is full of stories, tips, and how to's and contributions from a thousand different hunters - I found them at my local library. I also really enjoyed "Meat Eater - Adventures from the Life of an American Hunter," it's a lot of non-fiction short stories of his life in hunting. He also has "Scavengers Guide to Haute Cuisine" and his buffalo book.

I started wearing my Howard Leight Impact Sport electronic earmuffs when hunting. When you turn them up they actually amplify sound so not only are you protecting your hearing when you shoot but you're also hearing better and if it's cold they keep your ears warm!

Read Steven Rinellas Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking Cooking Big game. I never had a mentor to teach me how to hunt I picked up this book a year ago read it twice basically. It's jam packed with info I don't think there's another book like it. He ll walk you through the whole process from what gear you need and don't need, there's a chapter every type of big game animal in North America And how to hunt it. It pretty much covers all the questions you had in your post. Could not recommend this enough. https://www.amazon.ca/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/081299406X

Can you verify if it's this? I'd love to have a deer pelt <3

This book is honestly the best way to learn how to hunt, -and it's broken down by each species. I have hunted since I was a little kid and still learned a lot from it. Cannot reccomend it highly enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/0812987055

I think Steven Rinella's two volume Complete Guide to Hunting books are great: Volume one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/081299406X/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473207021&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=steven+rinella+books&dpPl=1&dpID=61ZdF0k1KXL&ref=plSrch

I use this blind in NY for both fall and spring. Works well for both turkey and deer. Turkey don't care how long it's been there, they don't really hang out and take in the view so you can just pack it and set it up on the same day. Deer are a lot more perceptive so you want to put it where you'll be hunting probably a month or so ahead of time to be safe. Also doesn't hurt to throw brush across it to try to cover smells.

I have both volumes of this, and it is super detailed. Volume 1 is large game, and Volume 2 is small game. It goes into detail about a lot of the basics.
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/081299406X?ie=UTF8&qid=&ref_=tmm_pap_swatch_0&sr=

https://amzn.com/B001T7QJ9O - Howard Leight (very common, very popular)

Using some active ear muffs will both improve your hearing, and protect your hearing of potentially damaging sound levels.

I would highly recommended Steven Rinella's Hunting, Butchering and Cooking Wild Game to anyone interested in hunting, regardless of experience level.

I looked back through a couple posts because I remember seeing a hunting book recommended. I found it thanks to u/KnockingonKevinsdoor

https://www.amazon.ca/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/081299406X

Check out the Barnett Recruit. A friend has one and swears by it.

To add to /u/Gitmo_money post about Rinella, get his books. He has a guide to big and small game. Even as an avid hunter and growing up with it, I picked up some things from his books.

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/081299406X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522364612&sr=8-1&keywords=steve+rinella+complete+guide

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/0812987055/ref=pd_bxgy_14_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0812987055&pd_rd_r=X30EZ0RRDTR9E476EFGJ&pd_rd_w=qP0yB&pd_rd_wg=lJdtL&psc=1&refRID=X30EZ0RRDTR9E476EFGJ

Volume 2 is out. I just ordered it today :)

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/0812987055?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HV2J7Y/ref=dp-kindle-redirect?_encoding=UTF8&btkr=1

This one is bar none my favorite. All these guys do is hunt public land in Michigan too, so it is very relatable for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking-ebook/dp/B00Q1IFKOG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499783919&sr=8-1&keywords=the+complete+guide+to+hunting+butchering+and+cooking+wild+game

This one is really good too, more aimed towards beginners though.

Second this and when I went out first time last year his book had all the info I needed to, 1 stay safe and 2 tactics in hunting and 3 how to field dress it.

The Complete Guide to Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game: Volume 1: Big Game https://www.amazon.com/dp/081299406X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Bg5QBb59ZXHR1

Steven Rinella wrote a book, Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game, that is an incredible resource for learning about wind, hunting strategies, and some basic information about various game species. Highly recommend you read it now and start applying what you learn in scouting trips prior to September. I took a deer with a bow my first year and you can too.

I am in the same position as you, and I just finished reading this book. Its not everything you need to know, but I feel much more prepared after having read it.

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking-ebook/dp/B00Q1IFKOG/ref=tmm_kin_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=&sr=#navbar

I have these and like them. I use them in my shop too.

Howard Leight by Honeywell Impact Sport Sound Amplification Electronic Shooting Earmuff, Classic Green (R-01526) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_faSXBbJZJQGMJ

Electronic ear muffs, like these are well worth the expense.

They allow hearing of regular noises (such as range officer orders or a deer sneaking along) but cut out on gunfire.

Buy this, and read it-
The Complete Guide to Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game: Volume 1: Big Game https://www.amazon.com/dp/081299406X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Tu6Fzb3M27JKG

Then buy this, and read it-
The Complete Guide to Hunting, Butchering, and Cooking Wild Game: Volume 2: Small Game and Fowl https://www.amazon.com/dp/0812987055/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Jv6FzbZGW2GRY

It’s in Rinella’s book: https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/081299406X

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/0812987055/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540481736&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=complete+guide+to+hunting+butchering+and+cooking+wild+game&dpPl=1&dpID=61ybuObh7DL&ref=plSrch

Volume 1 is big game.

There is a ton of info in these books.

I watch a lot of MeatEater on Netflix, then read this:

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/081299406X/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=steve+rinella&qid=1573953887&sprefix=steve+&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/081299406X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526298504&sr=8-1&keywords=complete+guide+to+hunting+butchering+and+cooking+wild+game

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/0812987055/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526298504&sr=8-2&keywords=complete+guide+to+hunting+butchering+and+cooking+wild+game

You should check out Steven Rinella's complete guides to hunting. These helped me immensely in getting into hunting.
https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/0812987055/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518060714&sr=8-2&keywords=steven+rinella+complete+guide+to+hunting

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/081299406X/ref=pd_bxgy_14_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=081299406X&pd_rd_r=RG32MG5VNEJCC6Q3AVKG&pd_rd_w=BqPAg&pd_rd_wg=4EZpb&psc=1&refRID=RG32MG5VNEJCC6Q3AVKG&dpID=61p-uQ2494L&preST=_SX218_BO1,204,203,200_QL40_&dpSrc=detail

Check with your state to see which department is in charge of game and fish. There's actually links to each states' department in Rinella's guides. These sources will usually provide you with areas to hunt in, such as national forests, wildlife management areas, and other such locations.

[Rinella's guide vol. 1] (https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/081299406X/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=rinella+guide&qid=1551052333&s=gateway&sr=8-1) actually cover how to find land to scout/hunt on. [guide vol.2][[https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/0812987055/ref=pd\_bxgy\_14\_img\_2/137-7311292-9552702?\_encoding=UTF8&pd\_rd\_i=0812987055&pd\_rd\_r=a9cd666a-388f-11e9-9e49-b9c377d1057c&pd\_rd\_w=lAFY4&pd\_rd\_wg=JhOcg&pf\_rd\_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf\_rd\_r=Z1XEKFJ0K6YM7WP14VWZ&psc=1&refRID=Z1XEKFJ0K6YM7WP14VWZ\]](https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/0812987055/ref=pd_bxgy_14_img_2/137-7311292-9552702?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=0812987055&pd_rd_r=a9cd666a-388f-11e9-9e49-b9c377d1057c&pd_rd_w=lAFY4&pd_rd_wg=JhOcg&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=Z1XEKFJ0K6YM7WP14VWZ&psc=1&refRID=Z1XEKFJ0K6YM7WP14VWZ])

https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/0812987055/ref=la_B001JRVGVU_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1497801533&sr=1-2

I have a set of Howard Leight Impact Sport earmuffs. They have a audio input on them. I usually attach my ipod or my phone and listen to a book on tape or music while in my stand.

Perhaps? https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Hunting-Butchering-Cooking/dp/081299406X

It has 389, 5 star ratings.

This. http://www.amazon.com/Howard-Leight-Impact-Electric-Earmuff/dp/B001T7QJ9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450671410&sr=8-1&keywords=hunting+ear+protection

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001T7QJ9O/ref=sxl1?qid=1462551388&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65