Best products from r/Hyundai

I recently did the upgrade myself on with 2014 Sonata GLS without nav. parts used:

• Kenwood DMX905S
  
• Scosche HY1625b dash kit
  
• iDatalink Maestro RR
  
• Factory replacement harness for Maestro RR
  
• Crimp cap Nylon connector
  
  the install was sort of straight forward. connecting the wires from replacement T harness to the Kenwood main cable may seem intimidating, but if you follow the diagram supplied by iDatalink, it will not be difficult. Maestro RR unit is very convenient and it lets me assign a single tap and hold (two functions) for each of the steering wheel buttons. one my biggest worry about losing the factory backup camera and its dynamic parking guideline when the car is in reverse. I am happy to report, the factory backup camera works, and the dynamic parking guide line shows up just fine when I am reversing the car with the Kenwood. removing the factory dash panel was not hard if you use the panel tools. the Scosche is of high quality and matches the factory dash overall, but some of the fitment was not correct. when swapping out the parts from the factory panel to Scosche panel, don't put on those green clips just yet. because for me it took a while to find a good fitment between the head unit and the panel, so I had to take off the panel, change the depth or angle of the head unit, and put the panel back on to see if the fit is good. once you are happy with the fitment, put on those green clips on the panel, and set the panel into the dash for good. I set up the microphone at the base of the steering wheel and the GPS antenna on the right side at the edge of the windshield. I channeled the dual USB cable between the two panels near the factory power, USB and audio inputs.
  
  I'm very impressed with the Kenwood unit. I have upgraded it to the latest firmware. then connected my phone (Galaxy S8) with the USB cable and started android auto. next time, I started my car, android auto started right away wirelessly. the screen is low res, but it is not noticeable for me. the sound quality is the biggest strength. the sound is very rich and clear. I have already swapped all four door speakers with Rockford speakers , and the two dash speaker with these. they are not a good fit at the factory slot, I have used bass blocker with the dash speaker. I have also added a Pioneer powered subwoofer in the trunk. using this wire kit.
  
  pic

I don't know if my base sonata had tweeters in the first place, but the ones inside the dashboard up against the inside of the windshield were pretty small. I don't know what they're rated at but I'm powering them just off the stock head unit, it was just plug and play. I'm sure if you went with an aftermarket amp you would get better sound but I didn't want to mess with all of that. my sub is also self powered so external amp for that either. here's links to the speakers I used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0LRUM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HWCM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

side note, the smaller in dash speakers made by polk audio made a huge difference, they were more expensive than the larger door speakers I got from rockford, if I could do it over again I'd spend a little more and go with polk audio speakers for the doors as well, or at least the higher end rockford fosgate rather than the $35 ones.

It worked immediately.

Are you using an OEM iPhone cable? The generic ones never worked or didn't work for long. I would get charging issues or have issues with sound quality/buzzing. I know they recommend plugging in the cable first, then plugging in your phone or something like that. Occasionally I would have to reconnect the phone for it to recognize and show up on the car's display.

Have you tried using just the audio port? The USB? The audio port can accept an audio source such as your phone, but without changing songs etc from the car display. The USB can play MP3s and even lets you navigate folders. You may have to ensure everything is plugged in securely? I think it was just a single thing you have to unplug? I don't remember exactly.

I actually switched to using a small Bluetooth dongle so my wife could use her phone as well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DFKGWGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 That and similar types can be plugged right into the aux and usb connection and you just pair it with your phone.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

>I know LED's get a lot of hate but I'll still consider them.

They get a lot of hate for a reason.

>We drive on dark roads and it seems unsafe with the low light level we get with upgraded halogen bulbs (Sylvania)

Sylvania has basically no upgraded halogen bulbs worth buying. All of their "upgraded" bulbs are actually downgrades. That's why you're not getting the results you want. It's too bad that their marketing department has a pretty much unlimited budget.

>I've been going down the rabbit hole of HID, LED bulbs

Yes, there are plenty of rabbit holes on HID and LEDs on the internet. Unfortunately, everyone's got something to sell you, whether it be their HID or LED kit. I got nothing to sell you.

And I got the right rabbit hole for you to go down. Try reading this and this and this, which, unlike whatever you've probably been reading, is not fake Amazon reviews for one.

So, if you went down the rabbit hole I gave you, you'll see that there are LED retrofits which can provide a max of 35 meters more sight distance in the dark. That sounds great, but let's keep in mind that these are prototype LED units, not Amazon specials. There's a lot more that go into LED retrofits than simply chip size and placement, as the document outlines. The most sophisticated Amazon specials right now like to claim that they mimic a halogen bulb's filament size and filament location, but those are just (BS) claims, and that's barely scratching the surface of what an acceptable LED retrofit is. That's like saying I slapped a BMW logo on my car and got leather seats in my car, can I call my car a M3? These prototype LED units are still under extensive development, and the standard for acceptable LED retrofits hasn't even been published yet. Let's just think about this for a bit: if the world's scientists can't write down what makes an acceptable LED retrofit, and have been working on writing down that set of standards for the last 2 years, how are we supposed to believe that the Amazon crap is worth anything? What kind of standard are Hikari bulbs built to when an international board of scientists haven't been able to put down on a piece of paper what defines a good LED retrofit?

The third link is a test of various high-performance halogen bulbs, and note how nothing from Sylvania is included. The best halogen bulbs give you 19 more meters of sight distance, and are available today on Amazon for less than $20. And no, you don't want to mess with LED retrofits, because the second link I gave you shows you, in the middle of the slide deck, how 1 millimeter of misalignment can lead to a loss of 30 meters of sight distance. LED chips are big, and the boards are usually too thick, especially on Amazon specials. All of those add up to multiple millimeters of misalignment.

Trust me, I know how bad the Accent's headlamps can be. I've rented them before, and I've ordered better bulbs via Amazon to drop into the car halfway through my trip. There's nothing really inherently wrong with the headlamp itself. It's just that the bulbs that come stock suck, and that Sylvania bulbs from the parts store suck even more.

Question 3: Get something flat and sturdy to stick under the plastic and pry up the closer you are to the actual clip when you pry, the less chance you have of breaking a clip. Also, as long as you dont break all of the clips it will still look fine when you put it back on.

Question 4: Any time something electrical acts screwy, check the fuses first. For your ESC, if your fuses are good, the next thing to check is your wheel speed sensors. There should be 4(one in each wheel assembly). Make sure they are plugged in, then check for broken/worn wires. If that's all good then the sensors might need replacing. It would be best to replace all 4 so you know their good. I'm unsure on what the next step would be if replacing the sensors doesn't work, that has always been the final fix in my experience.

Edit: Here is a link to a speed sensor so you know what you're looking for

http://www.amazon.com/Sensor-2007-2009-Hyundai-Elantra-ABS532/dp/B00MR3PFSA#immersive-view_1462810896422

Thank you for the info, I ended up buying these BEAMTECH 9005 LED Headlight Bulb, 50W 6500K 8000Lumens Extremely Brigh HB3 CSP Chips Conversion Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHD4HV3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZoT5Cb49E6MPT

The parts matcher said they would fit and the reviews seem pretty solid. If they don't work, at least Amazon is easy on returns.

I put one of these in my wife's Veracruz:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_90293_iSimple-Gateway-ISHY571.html

The nice part is that the sound quality is great and everything works with the factory radio. The downside is you have to be able to remove the radio and I had to drill out a hole to run the aux cable through. Also, I'm not 100% sure it works with the Sonata, you probably would want to check with the manufacturer first.

Another option is to get something like one of these:

http://smile.amazon.com/VicTec-Wireless-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Smartphones/dp/B0192YA6YO/

The upside is they are cheap and easy to use and you don't have to really install anything. They work by taking a bluetooth or Aux input and broadcasting it to an FM station you pick. You tune your radio to the FM station and you have your music from your phone. The downside is at best you get FM radio quality sound and in many cases a bit worse because of interference from other stations. Might be worth a try though.

I've got a K&N filter on my 2013 Sonata Hybrid Limited, I get ~4 mpg more and it does give you more acceleration. Getting EBC Redstuff brakes soon with a set of S.Drive tires. Maybe as a small summer project I might make a front strut bar, seems pretty easy just gotta know how to weld.

K&N Filter for your car

EBC Brakes

Tires (I live in cali, so don't recommend these for snowy/rainy areas

Edit: Best oil I have used is probably Mobil 1, with the Mobil 1 oil filter. Though expensive it does work really well together.

I have 3d Maxpider mats. A perfect, snug fit for my '16. No movement whatsoever and very easy to clean.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014KPAWI0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504973041&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3d+maxpider+sonata&dpPl=1&dpID=41OtV0825sL&ref=plSrch

The fuel additive they add is the stuff that comes in top tier fuel anyways.

This is the stuff they try to sell you at the dealership.
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Hyundai-00232-19047-Complete-Cleaner/dp/B00AKYOH8W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478750437&sr=8-1&keywords=hyundai+fuel+system+cleaner

This is the exact same stuff for 1/4 the price and can be bought at any Wal-Mart or parts stores.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/16647989?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222227025239943&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=71545448329&wl4=pla-161071186849&wl5=9030015&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=16647989&wl13=&veh=sem

The only difference is they Hyundai fluid has the word Hyundai on the bottle, otherwise it is the exact same stuff. If you use Top Tier gas like Quick Trip or Exxonmobil it comes with the stuff in the gas already.

If you do end up needing the Techron additive its pretty easy to use just get your tank to empty, dump the bottle into the tank, and then fill the tank. Easy peeze.

https://www.amazon.com/Nulaxy-Wireless-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Smartphones/dp/B018E0I01I?keywords=Fm+Transmitters&qid=1539477155&sr=8-5-spell&ref=sr_1_5

I know these tend to have bad sound and break constantly but I've had this specific one for 2 years and its still going strong. You can put it in your glove box plug in or the cig lighter. I have the same car and it works great

I didn't want to do a windshield mount, and dash mounts usually require adhesive to hold in place. I was looking for something completely reversible, and my research lead me to the CD tray mount. There's a bunch on the market and it took me a while to find one that would fit without obstructing my radio screen, a lot of them have knobs/thumbscrews that stick out of the bottom to tighten the mount. Ended up getting this, lowest profile one I could find. Bonus it came with some basic charger cable management.

Very satisfied customer. Shipping takes a while from korea though.

I have a 2013 Elantra GT, and I use a CD slot-mounted holder.

https://www.amazon.com/Mountek-nGroove-Universal-Phones-Devices/dp/B004G1L52Q

I'm not sure of the brand of the one I use, but if it's not the one I linked it's something very similar. Works quite well.

Might be easiest to do this https://www.amazon.com/Hyundai-2010-2017-Factory-Aftermarket-Harness/dp/B074JKSQVQ

Headlights (you only need one pair. the cutoff is outstanding)

Map lights, license plate lights, running tail lights, and side marker lights

Reverse lights

Front turn signals (accessible from under the vehicle - pin remover and 10mm socket needed)

Rear turn signals (requires tail light disassembly)

Turn signal resistors (required to prevent hyperflashing; soldering is recommended)

Brake lights (requires tail light disassembly)

Daytime-running lights (pliers needed)

Trunk light and dome light